I'm going to do a yard with code 70 ME rails and Central Valley tie strips. I still have lots of code 83 turnouts, so I'm using Peco 83 to 70 transition track pieces.
Another outstanding video! I just love Mr. Bogatiuk's realistic track laying! Thank You so much! I learned so much! Can't wait for part 2! The Broadway Limited Imports products are just amazing! Just Beautiful! The Bachmann Industries always step up their game! Beautiful products! I just love the MoPac Engine GP-38. I need that engine! "This Is The Greatest Hobby In The World" Till Next Time! MoPac Jack "May Your Tracks Be Clear & Your Switches Be Lined Up" Rock N' Roll Forever.. Be Safe!🚂
For better control and perfect atomisation of the glue mix, I use my old airbrush with a 0.5mm needle (as I have a better one for paint). Perfect for making tree without putting glue on the trunk. But sure, for large scenery, a bottle sprayer may be more adapted (but then a big spray gun can also work better). Regardless of the tool, spraying pure water as soon as possible after the glue mix will easily wash the sprayer tool.
Oh! Also! You mentioned the n scale layout. As an n scaler and somebody who looked recently at narrow gauge stuff but found myself dismayed that there isn’t really any narrow gauge American stuff available, I was disappointed. More N scale! :)
Timestamps for this incredibly long video: 0:00 - 5:11 intro and Ad Block 5:12 - 39:39 track laying tutorial (soundtraxx is doing the tutorial segments on this channel every time?) 39:39 - 42:14 using a high quality sprayer for scenic cement. (totally woodland scenics sponsored, because when you know scenic cement is watered down white glue, you have no reason to buy it anymore, theres literally no difference.) 42:14 - end of video. Bachmann zoom call Ad block/other ad blocks.
I did use MicroEngineering code 70 flex track in my yard. For turnouts, I decided to use Peco code 100 turnouts in staging and Peco code 83 on the visible part of my layout and Peco code 83 flextrack. When I was buying turnouts, the Unifrog were not yet available so I bought all Electrofrog and am using Tam Valley Frog juicers. I used what you called jumper track pieces to get spacing that I needed in the yard or on crossovers where I used Peco code 83 #8 turnouts. When I was a grad student at IU Bloomington IU, my layout had to share the garage with a car too!
I know it seems like HO people like to solder the power feeders to the side of the rail, but with this much cut out, you could also use this opportunity to solder feeders to the bottom of the rails so you can’t see it at all. You may have done that, but I haven’t gotten there yet. Also, British modeler Rich from New Junction does this and uses some kind of tool from somewhere to make sure all his “sleepers” and spaced properly.
I use a system with no track power at all. Complete battery operated. To really see the tie removal and spacing you need a higher view as the angle you have doesn't show the spacing as well. On my new layout I am using track from several layouts ago. I will use a liquid nail and put the glob on a piece of wood (anything will do) and take a small art knife and place a small, thin patch of glue every 6 inches. The patch of glue will be only about 3 ties wide. The track will be held tight but the ballast will solidify it when we get to that time. This will let you take up the track with just a water soak and a little prying. I have lost almost no track to bending or kinking when taking it up with this method. I use the "T" pins on the outside of the rack. This holds it in the line I want and then I use cans of soup or vegetables to hold the track down. The track will keep the cans from rolling off. Soup, vegetables, pop, beer, any of these will work and it's whatever floats your boat. I will shake up my glue bottles every time I am in the train room just to keep the glue - water mixed and not have the clumps that will form if you let it set foe several days or sometimes weeks.
I've spent most of my life working in industries with railroad track. I've found large variations in track depending on the economics and local conditions. There can be huge differences even inside a single industry. In general ballast used on industrial track is smaller than ballast used on railroad owned track. (cheaper) Industrial track ties are sometimes buried in dirt or ore to where they can't be seen. Particularly in areas with bulk loading or unloading. Sizable areas may be paved over. Often small sections of track are replaced resulting in new looking track next to heavily worn track. At one plant there were a couple hundred yards of concrete ties. The area was low and water logged rotting out wooden ties. Raising the area for drainage would have put the doors of box cars too high for the loading dock. For modern facilities handling tank cars there are often pans between the rails and along the outside of the rails to catch any spills. Think in terms of equipment for loading and unloading cars. The cargo doesn't magically jump in and out of cars. Loading chutes. Dumping pits. Air conveyors to remove fine material from covered hoppers. Platforms to access the tops of tank cars and covered hoppers.
I'm going to do a yard with code 70 ME rails and Central Valley tie strips. I still have lots of code 83 turnouts, so I'm using Peco 83 to 70 transition track pieces.
OMG....you brought back the head on of the Steamer and the UP...😂
The DDA40Xs slamming into the Rio Grande was priceless and caught me off guard! Lol 😂
This is really cool. I also like the ribbon rail tool. The tie removal is also innovated.
Another outstanding video! I just love Mr. Bogatiuk's realistic track laying! Thank You so much! I learned so much! Can't wait for part 2! The Broadway Limited Imports products are just amazing! Just Beautiful! The Bachmann Industries always step up their game! Beautiful products! I just love the MoPac Engine GP-38. I need that engine! "This Is The Greatest Hobby In The World" Till Next Time! MoPac Jack "May Your Tracks Be Clear & Your Switches Be Lined Up" Rock N' Roll Forever.. Be Safe!🚂
For better control and perfect atomisation of the glue mix, I use my old airbrush with a 0.5mm needle (as I have a better one for paint). Perfect for making tree without putting glue on the trunk. But sure, for large scenery, a bottle sprayer may be more adapted (but then a big spray gun can also work better).
Regardless of the tool, spraying pure water as soon as possible after the glue mix will easily wash the sprayer tool.
Another great video. Love the segment on track laying.
Oh! Also! You mentioned the n scale layout. As an n scaler and somebody who looked recently at narrow gauge stuff but found myself dismayed that there isn’t really any narrow gauge American stuff available, I was disappointed. More N scale! :)
Timestamps for this incredibly long video:
0:00 - 5:11 intro and Ad Block
5:12 - 39:39 track laying tutorial (soundtraxx is doing the tutorial segments on this channel every time?)
39:39 - 42:14 using a high quality sprayer for scenic cement. (totally woodland scenics sponsored, because when you know scenic cement is watered down white glue, you have no reason to buy it anymore, theres literally no difference.)
42:14 - end of video. Bachmann zoom call Ad block/other ad blocks.
Good Job guys! You know...Tyler
Hi Ken & it's is Randy and i like yours video is Cool & Thanks Ken & Friends Randy
I did use MicroEngineering code 70 flex track in my yard. For turnouts, I decided to use Peco code 100 turnouts in staging and Peco code 83 on the visible part of my layout and Peco code 83 flextrack. When I was buying turnouts, the Unifrog were not yet available so I bought all Electrofrog and am using Tam Valley Frog juicers. I used what you called jumper track pieces to get spacing that I needed in the yard or on crossovers where I used Peco code 83 #8 turnouts. When I was a grad student at IU Bloomington IU, my layout had to share the garage with a car too!
I know it seems like HO people like to solder the power feeders to the side of the rail, but with this much cut out, you could also use this opportunity to solder feeders to the bottom of the rails so you can’t see it at all. You may have done that, but I haven’t gotten there yet.
Also, British modeler Rich from New Junction does this and uses some kind of tool from somewhere to make sure all his “sleepers” and spaced properly.
Great vlog on track and YEAH a mini TOC for us to peruse articles we are interested in, thanks!
Need to stock up on paint stripper...i need some non dynamic GP38-2s....
I use a system with no track power at all. Complete battery operated. To really see the tie removal and spacing you need a higher view as the angle you have doesn't show the spacing as well. On my new layout I am using track from several layouts ago. I will use a liquid nail and put the glob on a piece of wood (anything will do) and take a small art knife and place a small, thin patch of glue every 6 inches. The patch of glue will be only about 3 ties wide. The track will be held tight but the ballast will solidify it when we get to that time. This will let you take up the track with just a water soak and a little prying. I have lost almost no track to bending or kinking when taking it up with this method. I use the "T" pins on the outside of the rack. This holds it in the line I want and then I use cans of soup or vegetables to hold the track down. The track will keep the cans from rolling off. Soup, vegetables, pop, beer, any of these will work and it's whatever floats your boat.
I will shake up my glue bottles every time I am in the train room just to keep the glue - water mixed and not have the clumps that will form if you let it set foe several days or sometimes weeks.
2:53: I think Mr. Whyte would have called it a 6-4-4-6.
I handlaid my first turnout two nights ago code 70. I was a bit of work, but wow… there’s no limitations
George has some nice track
Always look forward to your videos.
Nice
Is what you're using to adhere the track to the roadbed soluble for later removal or adjustments?
I've spent most of my life working in industries with railroad track. I've found large variations in track depending on the economics and local conditions. There can be huge differences even inside a single industry.
In general ballast used on industrial track is smaller than ballast used on railroad owned track. (cheaper)
Industrial track ties are sometimes buried in dirt or ore to where they can't be seen. Particularly in areas with bulk loading or unloading.
Sizable areas may be paved over.
Often small sections of track are replaced resulting in new looking track next to heavily worn track.
At one plant there were a couple hundred yards of concrete ties. The area was low and water logged rotting out wooden ties. Raising the area for drainage would have put the doors of box cars too high for the loading dock.
For modern facilities handling tank cars there are often pans between the rails and along the outside of the rails to catch any spills.
Think in terms of equipment for loading and unloading cars. The cargo doesn't magically jump in and out of cars. Loading chutes. Dumping pits. Air conveyors to remove fine material from covered hoppers. Platforms to access the tops of tank cars and covered hoppers.
Remember that the sprayer needs to be cleaned, or it will make a mess of the check valves.
what is the yr. on the wheel car he didn't say ???
1960's - 1970's It's All Good!
In the track laying segment; tell us about that Vette.....
Yes! I love the vintage Coke Vending Machine! MoPac Jack The Corvette Is Also Beautiful!