When I bought my Qiangsheng I was surprised how heavy it is. However it cuts better than my Stanleys. More recently I have made my own wooden planes with Veritas metalwork. I go to these most often
That was a great follow-up to the battle of the planes. It’s good to actually hear your opinions on the planes. You don’t need to apologize for having them. You viewers don’t have to agree, but it adds to our knowledge base.
I bought all Lie Nielsen hand planes (own 8, 4-1/2, 5, 3). I used them for several years quite happily. Then, I wanted a hand plane with more camber so I got a 1930s No 4 Craftsman brand No 4 and cambered the blade more to hog off more material. I loved it’s weight so much so that I I have replaced almost all of my daily user Lie Nielsen planes with vintage Stanley hand planes. What I liked was the lighter weight of the Stanleys. Not going to sell my LN planes yet. Curious to try wooden planes as likely even lighter. Oh, I do strongly prefer my LN chisels over vintages. Like you said, folks need to go to try tools themselves and see what they like. I would have never thought I would have preferred the vintage ones to my LN hand planes but I did and it wasn’t a cost issue as I already had the LN hand planes.
You are not alone I have heard of many peope who prefer vintage for those exact reasons! I also fully agree that everyone has different opinions and preferences and may need to buy, try, sell till they find what they want. That's what I did and still do. Thank you for sharing!!
Well done! I like how you put out your opinion without ranting on other planes. Almost all of my bench planes are Lie Nielsen and I am extremly happy with them! I have some Veritas planes because there where no other options. F. e. Plow Pland and Rabbet Plane, here in europe vintage Stanley are difficult to get. Talking about "mass produced" planes (yes I know people will got crazy about this word, but it is true) this lineup is the best you'll get. There is nothing wrong with any of these planes. My preference is with Lie Nielsen. I just love them. I had the chance to visit their shop in Maine and I am absolutely convinced about their products (all of them but the saws, there are far away from beeing bad, but IMHO there are better options out there).
Thank you!!! I happy you shared your opinion! I do the same thing but backwards lol I'll buy LN if Veritas doesn't make it but I also got to compare alot side by side so that really helped me pick my "specialty"/jointery planes also lol For saws I like user made, I have a few friends that make saws and always go for theirs :D
Hi. About the shaving issue on the veritas I also think the cap iron could be the cause. Before touching it try to change its setup (distance of the edge) to see if it changes smt, if not try to establish it at 75-80° angle, just few passes on a fine stone, it doesn't need to be huge.
One thing that might help with shavings is polishing the chip breaker. The chip breaker's finish of Veritas is not that great. I have buffed them with a bench grinder with a black, green and then white compounds. This helps with that. I learned this from Jim Kingshott.
Thanks so much for the shoutout! I know you need more video ideas 😂 so you need to do a demo of the method you end up with! Thanks for comparing all of the smoothers too! I currently just use my veritas low angle jack for everything and I use a cambered higher angle blade for tough grain. Maybe I’ll get a shorter veritas one day!
I will have a video comming out about that! Someone gave me a HUGE blessing and a mission to make my end all be all super plane so kept an eye out :D won't be till after handworks tho lol I used the LA Jack ONLY for a long time! Have you tried a bevel down yet?
@@BatCaveCreations actually, I’m partial to my 38 degree iron! I cambered the edges and can get some incredibly smooth shavings off of that bad boy. Everybody kinda defaults to the high angle with that plane, it seems, but the 38 degree is a more moderate approach, so it’s better for general use, in my opinion.
Deff is! 25 is end grain. 38 is general (same as bevel down) and 50 is for crazy grain but a 50 in that plane was WORK thays what make me try and learn bevel down haha but I still LOVE the BU line!
This was one of my favorite of your videos. really candid and conversational. While I love the stats, I can looks those up. What you did in this video is something I can't easily find. And it's valid and interesting. Most people never shut up with their opinion. We gotta drag it out of you ;) My two cents: I wanted to love the Custom 4 so badly. But I just didn't. Didn't like the shavings getting stuck. Didn't like that it was hard to sight down into the mouth while planing. Didn't like having to use a screwdriver for the lever cap. Plus, I'm impatient and I know myself enough to know that I'm not going to use something that is fiddly. I'm too lazy. Having said all that, it was CLEARLY a wonderful plane and left a beautiful surface on the wood. I do love the Lie Nielsen bench planes (their irons are excellent) and their adjustments are simple. Their totes are a bit cramped and I'm a woman! So for a guy I can only imagine how tight it is. But I do a three finger grip, and so it works out ok. Can't wait to try a Clifton at some point too. Thanks for your videos. They really help and are fun too! If you don't mind a suggestion, use the names of the plane makers in the title. It will draw more people who search on that in TH-cam. When I was looking at buying a Veritas Custom No. 4, I did that exact search. Etc. So throw in Veritas, Lie Nielsen and Clifton and get more views :) Just a thought.
Thank you!!! And thank you for sharing your opinion! It just keeps going to show 99% of woodworking is preference! We both had the same issues with the veritas but I prefer it and you don't lol Hu are funny :D Thank you for the suggestion! YT has it built so it searches the first part of your description as well so I put the names and such in there to keep a cleaner title :)
I need to try it again now that I have more experience. I tried them early in my hand tool journey and wasn't a fan. That's why I switched to LN, but then I tried the veritas custom and switched to those hahaha
@@BatCaveCreations Thanks! I've seen some mixed opinions on the default Veritas No 4. I'm considering it because I really like the larger tote on my Veritas Scrub Plane, and my Stanley No 4 feels a bit cramped as someone with larger hands. The LN and LV Custom are a bit too expensive for my taste.
@michael.knight have you tried the Jorgensen? Great plane and the price is good compared to LN and LV custom. It has more hand space too if I remember compared to stanley.
@michael.knight oh and 99% of woodworking is opinion. It is a good thing to buy try sell till you find what you like best. So you can always give the standard 4 a try amd see if you like it. If not sell it and grab a different brand. I did that alot and still do to find exactly what I want. In resale you take little hits in the wallet but for how long ull have the tool you chose its worth it imo
Good video and good advice too. I have tried all the new planes, even the stupidly priced Bridge City ones ( trying to reinvent the wheel I fancy ) and although some of them have been good I see no reason to replace the vintage planes, some of which I have had for fifty plus years, as the benefits are so small. Admitedly, I have over the years tuned my planes, made new totes and knobs and purchased better upgraded irons but at the end of the day they feel some much better in the hand than any of the new guys on the block. I would always encourage woodworkers to buy older planes for a tenth of the price of the new ones and put in the work to tune them and then spending all the money they saved on wood, cos thats more important than pretty new tools.
Deff! A well tuned vintage plane can perform just the same. All that amazing shavings! I do worry with newbies, at least it was my personal experience, that tuning a plane is a big step in learning hand tools. Let alone the set uo and use of one. I personally wanted to save right into woodworking so the vintage planes just made me mad cus they weren't tuned lol imthat could just be my impatience and ADHD tho hahah
I commented to my dad, some years back, "Opinions are like rear ends, every one has one." He, not losing a second responded, "Yes, and some of them stink!" Made me laugh.... I haven't tried a Clifton, and really had not heard of one. My dad gave me his planes, mostly Lie Nielson, which he bought and never used, and that got me side tracked from my lathes..... Thus far, I like the Lie Nielson planes, and the totes fit my hands well. I have big palms. In picking up a number of other planes of different styles, most of them do fit my hands good enough. I do have to make some wood planes, just because. I will look up your Battle of the 4s.
Veritas planes are loosely based on an ultra premium plane that Stanley sold for a short time. Can't remember the name of them, but there's a video somewhere on TH-cam with them featured.
Thank you!! I want to do a dedicated video on them. But I feel I don't know enough other than my experience with them which I know has weight but I know nothing about how they are made etc. hahaha
Lol yes! I was going to keep the Ashley's because I have bad hand days but someone suggested turning custom handles for the LN and just swapping them out in a bad day so I sold the Ashley's and got a good deal on a set of LN so went for it :D Good memory!
@@BatCaveCreations I know, Jamie. I watched the videos. I was just busting your chops a little. Btw... so you think there's an advantage to buying the Blue Spruce dovetail chisels, or is the side bevel on their bench chisels suitable for the job? Thanks again!
@GeeDeeBird monimalist I wouls say bench chisels and 1 paring chisel. The paring chisels have the same profile as the dovetail just linger so you could use it for both. My set up now is all butt chisels, 2 bench in diff sizes than the butt chisels, 1 pairing and 1 dovetail. Eventually I would like the widest paring chisel they offer mostly because it is just really cool but would also be handy at times. The only other thing I may add is a narrow dovetail because the narrow bench and butt are wide oj the sides but I have a japaneese print block chisel that works just fine in its place
With a fairly extensive collection, my favourite modern planes both looks and function wise are the Veritas, they strike a very good balance for me. Sometimes you get one that has an odd tolerance, but they are well thought out tools with lots of improvements over their original counterparts. Light tools are important, I rip into pieces at times with smaller planes to scrub off height quickly. There is no way one can reasonably use even a 4 1/2 bedrock style continuously for 15min for that kind of work. Vintage wise, I would say I use a Stanley Bailey no 4, 5 and 7 (I usually gravitate to type 9 and 15 as they seem to be lighter built) . But actually performance wise, I would be torn between my Woden's and pre-war (real) Records. They are a bit more precise, not too much weight penalty, and the components are always a hint more premium then. While I love modern veritas style totes, Woden has gotten it right when it comes to vintage planes. They look a bit weird on visuals, but are excellent.
Comfort is king. You are not going to use the plane if it doesn’t fit your hand. Buying Vintage planes is an excuse to buy a modern plane. Especially the nightmare of a poor restoration.
I'm only getting into Hand Planes now. I bought a #3, #4 and low angle block plane. That's what I've got so far and I didn't spend big on them tbh. I bought cheap to start with so I can learn everything I need to and if I grow into this of using more hand tools like saws, chisels planes, etc then I will buy better quality one day. I enjoy planing very much now my bro. I bought 2 cheaper planes off of Amazon. The blades are very thin so I have a question of 2 if u have a minute to answer. If anybody in the comments can help i WOULD APPRECIATE THE ADVICE. Q.1 - Does it matter how thick or thin the blade is? Q.2 - Why does my low angle block plane have the blade with the bevel up? Is that incorrect of me to say that? Maybe I'M DOING IT WRONG. Q.3 - What would be the best piece of advice u could give a newbie trying to find his way in hand tool sharpening? Thanks for the information in this video but a big thanks in advance to anybody who answers my questions. Appreciate it all very much. Take care fellow woodworkers.
Hey! Thank you! Q1: the thicker the blade the less chatter & noise while planing. Q2: low angle planes are bevel up because the bevel on the iron and the blade bed determik the cut angle. On standard bevel down planes the frog angle determines the cut angle. Q3: don't over think it. Watch my no bs guide to sharpening here is video 1 there are 4. th-cam.com/video/hEmDA1al1p8/w-d-xo.htmlsi=MuiP9LWPgIOHhUUL Hope that helps!
Bro, the idea for "body planing" which is the proper imho is that your pressure across the push is similar, so you have a better control going in an out of the cut, and it's sooo much easier. Planing with your arms is going to tire you way too quickly. It's like truing a neck radius in lutherie, you turn your upper body into a machine :) Also, it's the "evil eyes" symbol, not rock on ... as per Ronnie of course :)
I agree with you there the Cryo one hold longer but... I'd prefer 01 chisels for very fine pairing or detail work like that but hand planes... no sir not for me haha
I really appreciate your honesty and opinions.
Thank you!!
This was so good Jamie, loved your insights and the look into your personal perspective.
Thank you!!!
When I bought my Qiangsheng I was surprised how heavy it is. However it cuts better than my Stanleys. More recently I have made my own wooden planes with Veritas metalwork. I go to these most often
Thank you!! I am getting into the tap tap wooden plane game again. I tried a wooden Ulmia recently and love it so I get you!!
Great info, amazing lighting Jamie!
Thank you!!! I'm learning :D
That was a great follow-up to the battle of the planes. It’s good to actually hear your opinions on the planes. You don’t need to apologize for having them. You viewers don’t have to agree, but it adds to our knowledge base.
True! Thank you!!!
I bought all Lie Nielsen hand planes (own 8, 4-1/2, 5, 3). I used them for several years quite happily. Then, I wanted a hand plane with more camber so I got a 1930s No 4 Craftsman brand No 4 and cambered the blade more to hog off more material. I loved it’s weight so much so that I I have replaced almost all of my daily user Lie Nielsen planes with vintage Stanley hand planes. What I liked was the lighter weight of the Stanleys. Not going to sell my LN planes yet. Curious to try wooden planes as likely even lighter. Oh, I do strongly prefer my LN chisels over vintages. Like you said, folks need to go to try tools themselves and see what they like. I would have never thought I would have preferred the vintage ones to my LN hand planes but I did and it wasn’t a cost issue as I already had the LN hand planes.
You are not alone I have heard of many peope who prefer vintage for those exact reasons! I also fully agree that everyone has different opinions and preferences and may need to buy, try, sell till they find what they want. That's what I did and still do.
Thank you for sharing!!
Well done! I like how you put out your opinion without ranting on other planes. Almost all of my bench planes are Lie Nielsen and I am extremly happy with them! I have some Veritas planes because there where no other options. F. e. Plow Pland and Rabbet Plane, here in europe vintage Stanley are difficult to get. Talking about "mass produced" planes (yes I know people will got crazy about this word, but it is true) this lineup is the best you'll get. There is nothing wrong with any of these planes. My preference is with Lie Nielsen. I just love them. I had the chance to visit their shop in Maine and I am absolutely convinced about their products (all of them but the saws, there are far away from beeing bad, but IMHO there are better options out there).
Thank you!!! I happy you shared your opinion! I do the same thing but backwards lol I'll buy LN if Veritas doesn't make it but I also got to compare alot side by side so that really helped me pick my "specialty"/jointery planes also lol
For saws I like user made, I have a few friends that make saws and always go for theirs :D
Hi. About the shaving issue on the veritas I also think the cap iron could be the cause. Before touching it try to change its setup (distance of the edge) to see if it changes smt, if not try to establish it at 75-80° angle, just few passes on a fine stone, it doesn't need to be huge.
Thank you! I did try CB position but I haven't changed the angle of it yet but thays deff next step! thank you!
One thing that might help with shavings is polishing the chip breaker. The chip breaker's finish of Veritas is not that great. I have buffed them with a bench grinder with a black, green and then white compounds. This helps with that. I learned this from Jim Kingshott.
Yes thank you! I did do that on the veritas and it did help!
Thanks so much for the shoutout! I know you need more video ideas 😂 so you need to do a demo of the method you end up with!
Thanks for comparing all of the smoothers too! I currently just use my veritas low angle jack for everything and I use a cambered higher angle blade for tough grain. Maybe I’ll get a shorter veritas one day!
I will have a video comming out about that! Someone gave me a HUGE blessing and a mission to make my end all be all super plane so kept an eye out :D won't be till after handworks tho lol
I used the LA Jack ONLY for a long time! Have you tried a bevel down yet?
@@BatCaveCreations oh yeah, I have a 4,5,6, and 7 in traditional bevel down configurations. I got the bevel up primarily for shooting board use!
@ericrichter7933 oh ok I get you! Do you just prefer the LA Jack at high angles?
@@BatCaveCreations actually, I’m partial to my 38 degree iron! I cambered the edges and can get some incredibly smooth shavings off of that bad boy. Everybody kinda defaults to the high angle with that plane, it seems, but the 38 degree is a more moderate approach, so it’s better for general use, in my opinion.
Deff is! 25 is end grain. 38 is general (same as bevel down) and 50 is for crazy grain but a 50 in that plane was WORK thays what make me try and learn bevel down haha but I still LOVE the BU line!
This was one of my favorite of your videos. really candid and conversational. While I love the stats, I can looks those up. What you did in this video is something I can't easily find. And it's valid and interesting. Most people never shut up with their opinion. We gotta drag it out of you ;) My two cents: I wanted to love the Custom 4 so badly. But I just didn't. Didn't like the shavings getting stuck. Didn't like that it was hard to sight down into the mouth while planing. Didn't like having to use a screwdriver for the lever cap. Plus, I'm impatient and I know myself enough to know that I'm not going to use something that is fiddly. I'm too lazy. Having said all that, it was CLEARLY a wonderful plane and left a beautiful surface on the wood. I do love the Lie Nielsen bench planes (their irons are excellent) and their adjustments are simple. Their totes are a bit cramped and I'm a woman! So for a guy I can only imagine how tight it is. But I do a three finger grip, and so it works out ok. Can't wait to try a Clifton at some point too. Thanks for your videos. They really help and are fun too! If you don't mind a suggestion, use the names of the plane makers in the title. It will draw more people who search on that in TH-cam. When I was looking at buying a Veritas Custom No. 4, I did that exact search. Etc. So throw in Veritas, Lie Nielsen and Clifton and get more views :) Just a thought.
Thank you!!! And thank you for sharing your opinion! It just keeps going to show 99% of woodworking is preference! We both had the same issues with the veritas but I prefer it and you don't lol Hu are funny :D
Thank you for the suggestion! YT has it built so it searches the first part of your description as well so I put the names and such in there to keep a cleaner title :)
The slat wall looks fabulous!
Thank you!!!
What's your opinion on the 'default' No 4 by Veritas (not the custom one)?
I need to try it again now that I have more experience. I tried them early in my hand tool journey and wasn't a fan. That's why I switched to LN, but then I tried the veritas custom and switched to those hahaha
@@BatCaveCreations Thanks! I've seen some mixed opinions on the default Veritas No 4. I'm considering it because I really like the larger tote on my Veritas Scrub Plane, and my Stanley No 4 feels a bit cramped as someone with larger hands. The LN and LV Custom are a bit too expensive for my taste.
@michael.knight have you tried the Jorgensen? Great plane and the price is good compared to LN and LV custom. It has more hand space too if I remember compared to stanley.
@michael.knight oh and 99% of woodworking is opinion. It is a good thing to buy try sell till you find what you like best. So you can always give the standard 4 a try amd see if you like it. If not sell it and grab a different brand. I did that alot and still do to find exactly what I want. In resale you take little hits in the wallet but for how long ull have the tool you chose its worth it imo
Good video and good advice too. I have tried all the new planes, even the stupidly priced Bridge City ones ( trying to reinvent the wheel I fancy ) and although some of them have been good I see no reason to replace the vintage planes, some of which I have had for fifty plus years, as the benefits are so small. Admitedly, I have over the years tuned my planes, made new totes and knobs and purchased better upgraded irons but at the end of the day they feel some much better in the hand than any of the new guys on the block. I would always encourage woodworkers to buy older planes for a tenth of the price of the new ones and put in the work to tune them and then spending all the money they saved on wood, cos thats more important than pretty new tools.
Deff! A well tuned vintage plane can perform just the same. All that amazing shavings!
I do worry with newbies, at least it was my personal experience, that tuning a plane is a big step in learning hand tools. Let alone the set uo and use of one. I personally wanted to save right into woodworking so the vintage planes just made me mad cus they weren't tuned lol imthat could just be my impatience and ADHD tho hahah
I commented to my dad, some years back, "Opinions are like rear ends, every one has one." He, not losing a second responded, "Yes, and some of them stink!" Made me laugh.... I haven't tried a Clifton, and really had not heard of one. My dad gave me his planes, mostly Lie Nielson, which he bought and never used, and that got me side tracked from my lathes..... Thus far, I like the Lie Nielson planes, and the totes fit my hands well. I have big palms. In picking up a number of other planes of different styles, most of them do fit my hands good enough. I do have to make some wood planes, just because. I will look up your Battle of the 4s.
My dad use to say the same thing! And recieveing LN planes as a gift is amazing! Congratulations!
Veritas planes are loosely based on an ultra premium plane that Stanley sold for a short time. Can't remember the name of them, but there's a video somewhere on TH-cam with them featured.
Yes! The guage auto set planes! Those are fun ones!
"Sorry I started talking about metal types". Lol I found that educational.
Thank you!! I want to do a dedicated video on them. But I feel I don't know enough other than my experience with them which I know has weight but I know nothing about how they are made etc. hahaha
@@BatCaveCreations hmm, this makes me wonder. Maybe the Lie-Nielsen A2 steel easier to sharpen because of a different heat treat/tempering process?
That is very possible! I should look into it but haven't haha
Will definitely say hello at HandWerks.
Yes!!!!!! Thank you! See you there!
You changed chisels to Lie Nielsen?? I remember you having the Ashley Iles, even after trying the veritas pmv11.
Lol yes! I was going to keep the Ashley's because I have bad hand days but someone suggested turning custom handles for the LN and just swapping them out in a bad day so I sold the Ashley's and got a good deal on a set of LN so went for it :D
Good memory!
@@BatCaveCreationsAnd now you're going to Blue Spruce. So fickle!
@@GeeDeeBird nope just upgrading to what is better for me.
@@BatCaveCreations I know, Jamie. I watched the videos. I was just busting your chops a little. Btw... so you think there's an advantage to buying the Blue Spruce dovetail chisels, or is the side bevel on their bench chisels suitable for the job? Thanks again!
@GeeDeeBird monimalist I wouls say bench chisels and 1 paring chisel. The paring chisels have the same profile as the dovetail just linger so you could use it for both. My set up now is all butt chisels, 2 bench in diff sizes than the butt chisels, 1 pairing and 1 dovetail. Eventually I would like the widest paring chisel they offer mostly because it is just really cool but would also be handy at times. The only other thing I may add is a narrow dovetail because the narrow bench and butt are wide oj the sides but I have a japaneese print block chisel that works just fine in its place
With a fairly extensive collection, my favourite modern planes both looks and function wise are the Veritas, they strike a very good balance for me. Sometimes you get one that has an odd tolerance, but they are well thought out tools with lots of improvements over their original counterparts. Light tools are important, I rip into pieces at times with smaller planes to scrub off height quickly. There is no way one can reasonably use even a 4 1/2 bedrock style continuously for 15min for that kind of work.
Vintage wise, I would say I use a Stanley Bailey no 4, 5 and 7 (I usually gravitate to type 9 and 15 as they seem to be lighter built) . But actually performance wise, I would be torn between my Woden's and pre-war (real) Records. They are a bit more precise, not too much weight penalty, and the components are always a hint more premium then. While I love modern veritas style totes, Woden has gotten it right when it comes to vintage planes. They look a bit weird on visuals, but are excellent.
I agree! Thank you for sharing! I like hearing other people's opinions cus they get to hear mine but I want to hear theirs! Hahahaah
Comfort is king. You are not going to use the plane if it doesn’t fit your hand. Buying Vintage planes is an excuse to buy a modern plane.
Especially the nightmare of a poor restoration.
Agreed! Thank you!
I'm only getting into Hand Planes now. I bought a #3, #4 and low angle block plane. That's what I've got so far and I didn't spend big on them tbh. I bought cheap to start with so I can learn everything I need to and if I grow into this of using more hand tools like saws, chisels planes, etc then I will buy better quality one day.
I enjoy planing very much now my bro.
I bought 2 cheaper planes off of Amazon. The blades are very thin so I have a question of 2 if u have a minute to answer. If anybody in the comments can help i WOULD APPRECIATE THE ADVICE.
Q.1 - Does it matter how thick or thin the blade is?
Q.2 - Why does my low angle block plane have the blade with the bevel up? Is that incorrect of me to say that? Maybe I'M DOING IT WRONG.
Q.3 - What would be the best piece of advice u could give a newbie trying to find his way in hand tool sharpening?
Thanks for the information in this video but a big thanks in advance to anybody who answers my questions. Appreciate it all very much. Take care fellow woodworkers.
Hey! Thank you!
Q1: the thicker the blade the less chatter & noise while planing.
Q2: low angle planes are bevel up because the bevel on the iron and the blade bed determik the cut angle. On standard bevel down planes the frog angle determines the cut angle.
Q3: don't over think it. Watch my no bs guide to sharpening here is video 1 there are 4. th-cam.com/video/hEmDA1al1p8/w-d-xo.htmlsi=MuiP9LWPgIOHhUUL
Hope that helps!
@@BatCaveCreations Thanks very much for the reply my friend. Really appreciate that.
Bro, the idea for "body planing" which is the proper imho is that your pressure across the push is similar, so you have a better control going in an out of the cut, and it's sooo much easier. Planing with your arms is going to tire you way too quickly. It's like truing a neck radius in lutherie, you turn your upper body into a machine :)
Also, it's the "evil eyes" symbol, not rock on ... as per Ronnie of course :)
Your opinion is valid feel if it’s important to you it would be valid for me
That is awesome! Thank you!!!
O1 plane irons are just wrong. Quick to sharpen, and quicker to loose sharpness.
I agree with you there the Cryo one hold longer but... I'd prefer 01 chisels for very fine pairing or detail work like that but hand planes... no sir not for me haha
Norris 👎🏽