Restricting oil is old way of thinking as people did not understand the problem. The only problem that 351c has with oiling is that OEM spec for oil capacity was too low and engine would run out of oil at prolong high rpm operation. Boss351 ran 6qrt in the same pan as other mustang (which had only 5qrt). You need 6 quarts for 351c when looking to rev to 6k rpms and 7qrt if you are looking for 7k rpm. Larger oil pan needed to run 7 quart. Windage tray advised to run 6qrt in stock oil pan (boss351 had it)
Welll, not exactly, in my experience. The 351C, 400 and 351M were all the same oiling design. Racers had modification systems with extra pipes or hoses directing oil where required, namely the main and thus rod bearings. My main experience was with 400s in farm pickup trucks. Due to the non priority main oiling, the main and rod bearings would be copper all the way around. Customers would come in wanting me to install a new oil pump as the oil pressure light would flash at stop signs when warm. After removing the oil pan, one main bearing and one rod bearing for inspection and finding copper, I would poke the timing chain to check wear. Needed a timing set as well. Gotvauthorization to replace the bearings and timing set. Some I put 0.001US bearings in to compensate for journal wear. Always put a double roller timing set in. Cleaned and inspected the oil pumps which always were close to perfect, so I saved them some money and did not replace it. Some complained I did not replace the oil pump. After explaining that I inspected it for wear and deemed it very serviceable, I was saving them some money. I then suggested driving it for a week and if they were not satisfied, if they paid for the pump I would install it at no cost to them. Never had a complaint. The small block and Windsor engines have priority main oiling, so they do not suffer the main and rod bearing wear the same. On a high RPM build, restrictors may help some by keeping oil on the crank bearings instead of the heads. This takes the load off the head oil drainback system.
Hey BOD, have you tried 'sleeving' the damaged pushrod hole instead of just using an epoxy fix? I'm not a fan of using restrictors, as we discussed, I would have added extra oil. Smokey Yuinch, one of my hero engine builders, experimented with roller bearings throughout (if memory serves me) the engine to min frictional power losses. Long story short, by increasing oil pressure (and I'll assume increased oil flow) he was able to match the reduced friction losses. New to the channel, are you using a windage tray? I have read were there is a considerable about of oil 'roping' around the crank instead of draining back to the pan at high RPMs. Great work and good luck!
Good questions . Yes sir , it does have a windage tray . I have sleeved pushrod holes before, i wanted to see what happens when i completely remove the pushrod pinch , more like a Z304 or a 351N head . Could it take a budget head to a better place. We shall see . With the valve covers removed , This engine would spray oil onto the floor out of the rockers when priming it with a drill . It has to be slowed down. Thanks for the comment sir .
@@sorshiaemms5959 I've never had a problem either. Always made sure oil feeds to mains lined up. Twisted a few 289/302 oil pump shafts but never a 351. But that's it. It appears the front main on a 302 gets the lowest oil pressure, but that could be caused by accessory belts.
Only need the restrictors in a cleveland block not in a windsor as they were designed with priority main oiling from factory. The cleveland need restrictors coz they fed the camshaft and lifters first before the crankshaft
On my 351W turning 7500 to 7800 HV Soild Roller street motor never had oil issues Windsors are notorious for good oiling not like a Cleveland. I find this odd. Lifter oiled like shit but notch corrected.
Spun a big end bearing, so looking at what others are doing RE their oiling. Pretty sure mine was a tuning issue (moving from hot humid Australian 98 pump gas to elevated dry US 93 pump gas, and to much low rpm load Anyways….. 🙄 I have exactly as you’ve done with the oiling so I think I’m good there I’ll check the lifter to bore clearance also Will start with 0.032” X 4 and see what the pushrod dribble is Goes hard 562hp and 495lbft at 6,500 N/A with 8:1 comp VE is 107% but BMEP is fuck all with the compression - not doing any work…….until I put the roots back on 😃😁🥳🥳 That is for the video 🎯👌
I've thought about doing the same thing you did to those heads but instead of using epoxy it's better to put a piece of thin tube that fits something tight or pressure and maybe put loctite on it... it's just an idea.
I did a set of heads with pushrod tubes before. Those NKB heads have a .210 offset pushrod cup rockers and .180 offset lifters. It would not work with pushrod tubes because of that. There is absolutely no pushrod pinch on those heads. I may tig weld them sometime.
Why haven’t you tried some Cleveland heads,,,they flow 220 cam with no work,,and some guys get over 300 cfms when worked,,,Nice Videos and Build of the 351,,I’m doing a 351 w for my 73 Bronco and thinking about doing a clever top end on it,,,we will see
Hi. Did you tap the top oil cross over hole in the top of the block under the intake? I am about to do mine just in case that press in plug pops out.... not good.
Hi, I made a 393 stroker and I'm going to run it single turbo. I expect about 800 WHP. Do you recommend me, apart from porting the oil duct holes, should I also put the oil rectifiers on it? Will it be an engine for daily use? What do you recommend ?
@ivanracing27 Use a head gasket for a template, mark out the oil return holes on the block and blend it in with a carbide burr. The oil return holes usually do not line up well.
I have the 302 windsor (8.2 deck) Dart. It has the screw in plug at the rear of the blocks lifter valley. Should this be allowing oil flow? It flows out about same rate as the pushrods. I assume its to feed the lifter valley, right?
Hello. I have a ford 351w and want to install aluminum heads with a high volume oil pump. Do you recommend me install the oil restrictor in order to avoid submerge the valve stem seals in oil ? If so do I have to install the restrictor at the back of the block just as how you explain in the video ? Thanks
I don't recommend using a Hv oil pump unless you have a worn engine or large oil clearances. You can only put restrictors in that oil gallery if you are using a solid lifter cam. If that is not an option, you could use restricted pushrods if you need to slow the flow down. Check out my video of oiling mods. ✌
Thank you for your advise, I already have the high volume oil pump for the 351, do I have any options to avoid flooding the valve stem seals with excess oil?
@@luisaponte8047 no problem sir, It is always a good idea to improve oil drain back in the heads and block to get oil back to the oil pan faster. I show how to do that in one of my videos about ( improving oiling ) .
@@blueovaldude , thank you I will do so checking out your videos to improve the oiling on the 351. Also have another question, I have a 302 and that I’m putting together and have a trick flow stage 1 cam 221/225 duration .499/.510 lift with 112 lobe sep. I have a set of gt40p heads and I have a set of AFR 185 enforcer heads. Which heads will be better suited for that cam, don’t know if the 185 aluminum heads will be too large and flow less, Thanks in advance
@@luisaponte8047 no it's not too big of a head. I would definitely run it if you have valve clearance for 2.02 valves. The as cast enforcer flows a solid 50 cfm more on the intake side over a gt40p head. Plus a 50 lbs lighter.
Hi mate, My son was about to fit restrictors into my 351 Windsor and we noticed on the little instruction paper it says should only be used with solid roller cam not used with conventional solid cam. Can you add any more to this. kit I have have is Moroso 22045
Sure, if you do not have a solid roller cam do not restrict oil to the lifters . Flat tappet lifters need a lot of oil as to not wipe a lobe off , hydraulic cams need to have plenty of oil to operate properly. you can still restrict oil to the cam bearings and that would be fine .
@@blueovaldude Hi mate, have you run in to clearance issues with oil pump when using a main stud girdle on 351 Windsor. Nothing to do with the restrictor subject I know , but I just thought I would ask. I have just come across a problem with the oil pump fouling on the main stud. Mellings pump. Probably just grind side out of pump. Thought I would ask if its a common problem.
At the end of my block number is a 14.. and in the lifter valley (WCP 14).. Some forums say 10=289, 12=302, and 13=351... but I can't define the 14.. one guy says it =408/4" stroke.. but I'm at 3.5. Anyone got an idea what 14 is?
Yes, what the other gentleman said ⬆️ . I looked at a few different Windsors and they used a different WCP number. Also there was never a 408/4" stroke produced by ford, so someone misspoke or was messing around.
The M400 (my favorite) has the 4" stroke. the Windsors big brother (tall deck).. I also have the 3 valve Triton 4.25🤤 and the 300 i6 in a 75 Highboy😎 FORDEMUP🇺🇸
@@blueovaldude yeah, I also have a 351M and a set of Aussie2v's..(Cleveland heads) on my 400.. just referring to the tall deck similarities.. I have every motor except a 460/429 or a SOHC.. Not a FE fan either. my dad has the Cougar XR7 390 with TWISTED WEDGE heads. I also have a 67 vette 327 with the 2690 Forged 3.48 crank, Forged Rods, and Flat tops.. and 291 fuellie heads with factory 2.02s and relief cut.. all factory GM.. pretty rare mouse motor. But we don't need no stinking DODGES 🤣
Look's like some great porting. Awesome build.
New sub .. keep coming back over Ford stuff
Run a 8 qt oil pan problem solved.
Restricting oil is old way of thinking as people did not understand the problem.
The only problem that 351c has with oiling is that OEM spec for oil capacity was too low and engine would run out of oil at prolong high rpm operation.
Boss351 ran 6qrt in the same pan as other mustang (which had only 5qrt).
You need 6 quarts for 351c when looking to rev to 6k rpms and 7qrt if you are looking for 7k rpm. Larger oil pan needed to run 7 quart. Windage tray advised to run 6qrt in stock oil pan (boss351 had it)
Welll, not exactly, in my experience. The 351C, 400 and 351M were all the same oiling design. Racers had modification systems with extra pipes or hoses directing oil where required, namely the main and thus rod bearings.
My main experience was with 400s in farm pickup trucks. Due to the non priority main oiling, the main and rod bearings would be copper all the way around. Customers would come in wanting me to install a new oil pump as the oil pressure light would flash at stop signs when warm. After removing the oil pan, one main bearing and one rod bearing for inspection and finding copper, I would poke the timing chain to check wear. Needed a timing set as well. Gotvauthorization to replace the bearings and timing set. Some I put 0.001US bearings in to compensate for journal wear. Always put a double roller timing set in. Cleaned and inspected the oil pumps which always were close to perfect, so I saved them some money and did not replace it. Some complained I did not replace the oil pump. After explaining that I inspected it for wear and deemed it very serviceable, I was saving them some money. I then suggested driving it for a week and if they were not satisfied, if they paid for the pump I would install it at no cost to them. Never had a complaint.
The small block and Windsor engines have priority main oiling, so they do not suffer the main and rod bearing wear the same. On a high RPM build, restrictors may help some by keeping oil on the crank bearings instead of the heads. This takes the load off the head oil drainback system.
Too much oil sat in the heads so you run a bigger pan & more oil.
Hey BOD, have you tried 'sleeving' the damaged pushrod hole instead of just using an epoxy fix? I'm not a fan of using restrictors, as we discussed, I would have added extra oil. Smokey Yuinch, one of my hero engine builders, experimented with roller bearings throughout (if memory serves me) the engine to min frictional power losses. Long story short, by increasing oil pressure (and I'll assume increased oil flow) he was able to match the reduced friction losses.
New to the channel, are you using a windage tray? I have read were there is a considerable about of oil 'roping' around the crank instead of draining back to the pan at high RPMs.
Great work and good luck!
Good questions . Yes sir , it does have a windage tray . I have sleeved pushrod holes before, i wanted to see what happens when i completely remove the pushrod pinch , more like a Z304 or a 351N head . Could it take a budget head to a better place. We shall see . With the valve covers removed , This engine would spray oil onto the floor out of the rockers when priming it with a drill . It has to be slowed down. Thanks for the comment sir .
Been racing 302s for 30 years never have used restrictors
ive run302 s 289s and 351 w and never used them as well the Windsor always had a priority main oil system it can t hurt but may be not needed
@@sorshiaemms5959 I've never had a problem either. Always made sure oil feeds to mains lined up.
Twisted a few 289/302 oil pump shafts but never a 351. But that's it.
It appears the front main on a 302 gets the lowest oil pressure, but that could be caused by accessory belts.
Machining and building them since 1990.
Don’t even get asked by customers.
Only need the restrictors in a cleveland block not in a windsor as they were designed with priority main oiling from factory. The cleveland need restrictors coz they fed the camshaft and lifters first before the crankshaft
I'm going to say in the neighborhood of 510-525Hp.
On my 351W turning 7500 to 7800 HV Soild Roller street motor never had oil issues Windsors are notorious for good oiling not like a Cleveland. I find this odd. Lifter oiled like shit but notch corrected.
They have the best oiling system of any Ford motor from that era.
Epoxy a old tape measure piece in the pushrod hole old trick
Spun a big end bearing, so looking at what others are doing RE their oiling.
Pretty sure mine was a tuning issue (moving from hot humid Australian 98 pump gas to elevated dry US 93 pump gas, and to much low rpm load
Anyways….. 🙄
I have exactly as you’ve done with the oiling so I think I’m good there
I’ll check the lifter to bore clearance also
Will start with 0.032” X 4 and see what the pushrod dribble is
Goes hard
562hp and 495lbft at 6,500 N/A with 8:1 comp
VE is 107% but BMEP is fuck all with the compression - not doing any work…….until I put the roots back on 😃😁🥳🥳
That is for the video 🎯👌
I've thought about doing the same thing you did to those heads but instead of using epoxy it's better to put a piece of thin tube that fits something tight or pressure and maybe put loctite on it... it's just an idea.
I did a set of heads with pushrod tubes before. Those NKB heads have a .210 offset pushrod cup rockers and .180 offset lifters. It would not work with pushrod tubes because of that. There is absolutely no pushrod pinch on those heads. I may tig weld them sometime.
Hey Dude! Realmente son necesarios estos restrictores? Su uso es para cual fin? Estoy apunto de comenzar mi construcción 351W
Same motor, same mod. Nice job..
shouldn't have to put a restrictor kit in a windsor or 302 block it's the Cleveland blocks that you got to do that too
Why haven’t you tried some Cleveland heads,,,they flow 220 cam with no work,,and some guys get over 300 cfms when worked,,,Nice Videos and Build of the 351,,I’m doing a 351 w for my 73 Bronco and thinking about doing a clever top end on it,,,we will see
Funny you mentioned it. I have a video of heads just for that. . . .clevor
Hi. Did you tap the top oil cross over hole in the top of the block under the intake? I am about to do mine just in case that press in plug pops out.... not good.
It's a good idea to tap all the oil galleries. 👍
@@blueovaldude What size NPT pipe countsink plug did you use?
Hi, I made a 393 stroker and I'm going to run it single turbo. I expect about 800 WHP. Do you recommend me, apart from porting the oil duct holes, should I also put the oil rectifiers on it? Will it be an engine for daily use? What do you recommend ?
Good question, for a daily I would not use restrictors. Especially if running a hydraulic roller.
Hello, what size do you have to drill the front holes where the heads go?
@ivanracing27 Use a head gasket for a template, mark out the oil return holes on the block and blend it in with a carbide burr. The oil return holes usually do not line up well.
Are the rear plugs going to screw in as well as the front or press in?
The rear plugs come factory as screw in plugs , only the ones under the timing cover are soft plugs. Thanks for the ?
I have the 302 windsor (8.2 deck) Dart. It has the screw in plug at the rear of the blocks lifter valley. Should this be allowing oil flow? It flows out about same rate as the pushrods. I assume its to feed the lifter valley, right?
There should be a crossover on both ends that is already threaded for restrictors to limit oil to the lifters . They come in the moroso kit also .
instablaster
Hello.
I have a ford 351w and want to install aluminum heads with a high volume oil pump.
Do you recommend me install the oil restrictor in order to avoid submerge the valve stem seals in oil ? If so do I have to install the restrictor at the back of the block just as how you explain in the video ? Thanks
I don't recommend using a Hv oil pump unless you have a worn engine or large oil clearances. You can only put restrictors in that oil gallery if you are using a solid lifter cam. If that is not an option, you could use restricted pushrods if you need to slow the flow down. Check out my video of oiling mods. ✌
Thank you for your advise, I already have the high volume oil pump for the 351, do I have any options to avoid flooding the valve stem seals with excess oil?
@@luisaponte8047 no problem sir, It is always a good idea to improve oil drain back in the heads and block to get oil back to the oil pan faster. I show how to do that in one of my videos about ( improving oiling ) .
@@blueovaldude , thank you I will do so checking out your videos to improve the oiling on the 351. Also have another question, I have a 302 and that I’m putting together and have a trick flow stage 1 cam 221/225 duration .499/.510 lift with 112 lobe sep. I have a set of gt40p heads and I have a set of AFR 185 enforcer heads. Which heads will be better suited for that cam, don’t know if the 185 aluminum heads will be too large and flow less, Thanks in advance
@@luisaponte8047 no it's not too big of a head. I would definitely run it if you have valve clearance for 2.02 valves. The as cast enforcer flows a solid 50 cfm more on the intake side over a gt40p head. Plus a 50 lbs lighter.
Restricting the oil to the cam bearing is a no no unless it is a strictly race engine. This will destroy your street engine! Seen it happen twice.
What's the purpose for the oil restrictors?
Over oiling is happening in this engine . Draining the 7qt oil pan before a dyno run can even be completed . So it is an effort to control the issue.
Hi mate, My son was about to fit restrictors into my 351 Windsor and we noticed on the little instruction paper it says should only be used with solid roller cam not used with conventional solid cam. Can you add any more to this. kit I have have is Moroso 22045
Sure, if you do not have a solid roller cam do not restrict oil to the lifters . Flat tappet lifters need a lot of oil as to not wipe a lobe off , hydraulic cams need to have plenty of oil to operate properly. you can still restrict oil to the cam bearings and that would be fine .
@@blueovaldude Hi mate, have you run in to clearance issues with oil pump when using a main stud girdle on 351 Windsor. Nothing to do with the restrictor subject I know , but I just thought I would ask. I have just come across a problem with the oil pump fouling on the main stud. Mellings pump. Probably just grind side out of pump. Thought I would ask if its a common problem.
@@dazza1024 It can be , usually it's when you use a HV pump . A small amount of grinding should take care of it.
That 351 can produce 550 - 600 hp and better
It's going to get a beating! 😁
At the end of my block number is a 14.. and in the lifter valley (WCP 14)..
Some forums say 10=289, 12=302, and 13=351... but I can't define the 14.. one guy says it =408/4" stroke.. but I'm at 3.5.
Anyone got an idea what 14 is?
It stands for Windsor Casting Plant 14... no correlation to cubic inches (351 or 408=witch makes no sense anyway)
Yes, what the other gentleman said ⬆️ . I looked at a few different Windsors and they used a different WCP number. Also there was never a 408/4" stroke produced by ford, so someone misspoke or was messing around.
The M400 (my favorite) has the 4" stroke. the Windsors big brother (tall deck)..
I also have the 3 valve Triton 4.25🤤 and the 300 i6 in a 75 Highboy😎 FORDEMUP🇺🇸
@No Biden yes sir the ford 400 has a 4" stroke but it is from the Cleveland family. Have fun wrenching, racing and having fun in them. 😁
@@blueovaldude yeah, I also have a 351M and a set of Aussie2v's..(Cleveland heads) on my 400.. just referring to the tall deck similarities.. I have every motor except a 460/429 or a SOHC.. Not a FE fan either.
my dad has the Cougar XR7 390 with TWISTED WEDGE heads.
I also have a 67 vette 327 with the 2690 Forged 3.48 crank, Forged Rods, and Flat tops.. and 291 fuellie heads with factory 2.02s and relief cut.. all factory GM.. pretty rare mouse motor.
But we don't need no stinking DODGES 🤣