AnyCubic Mono X - My own version of the Flint Read Leveling Method (Read Description)
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- เผยแพร่เมื่อ 7 ก.ย. 2024
- Back in the Photon S, the first thing I learned was to use the Flint Read Method for leveling, it rocks!
Then after the Mono X arrived, I've created my own version of the Flint Read Method and it works beautifully.
So here is just sharing my version of the Flint Read Leveling Method on the AnyCubic Mono X
Basically the same thing without the step-down thing:
1. Un-tight the 4 screws on the build plate
2. Place the VAT on the screen
3. Press “Home” and wait for the build plate to settle down
4. Hold down the middle of the plate with small pressure
5. Tighten the 4 screws
6. Un-tight the VAT’s screw to check the movability***
7. Move Z up 0.3mm from the FEP
8. Set Z=0
***For the movability, the VAT should sit tight already by the pressure of the plate.
Disclaimer:
Please judge at your own risk, it works for me, it works for some other people I know, but if you are not sure what are you doing, you may damage your own machine, so please be cautious.
Or you can do it totally without adding the 0.3mm
Tried this having randomly stumbled across your video .... Spot on. Good adhesion and resolved the huge elephant foot problem I was having.
Thank you.
This is better than the flint read method... Too many sovol vats and gaskets lifting feps. This is the only way ive seen that takes this into account. Bro... Saw you unscrewing the vat and im like wtf?? And instantly jaw dropped. 🤙
Thank you ,with your version my printing do not have any problem like before ty
thank you a lot, my first print got saved and it's was a mess almost broke the fep screen.... i redid the level with your method and it worked !!!
You pretty much HAVE to do it this way if you use a screen protector so it adjusts for the slightly raised vat - takes out all the guesswork you just have to be careful not to scratch the fep. I hope you put those vat screws back in before starting a print ;)
just did that for the first time..
Good tip, have a screen protector coming next week :)
With the paper method, i up the z axis the exact amount you done. I printed a 20x20 cube with only the paper distance and measured 19.71.. i relevel with that distance and the "elephant foot" is almost irrelevant!! Nice video 👍
What do you mean you releveled with that distance? Id like to have no elephant foot
@@danielradu8392 i've added 0.3mm to the height where the paper bite..print a 20mm cube, measure the height, then add that value that it's missing on the 20mm cube when set the z=0. In chitubox there's also a setting to compensation of elephant foot.
I was having the same problem on my anycubic photon mono 4k, each print was 0.3 mm smaller on z axis, with this method the z dimension is totally ok. Also resolved a bit of elephant foot i have on my prints. Thank you!
Instead of using the actual vat, I just use an old piece of FEP from my old, smaller printer. Same thicccness, but not risking ruining the FEP that’s already on the bat.
Wow, why didn't I think of that?
Genius!
good idea
I nowadays use a different leveling method. I basically mounted a dial gauge upside down on a printed piece, and just measure the crap out of it. Using leveling like this, it reads +/- 0.1mm. For most resins that's totally fine by the ways. But I want it spot on... so I just take the lowest point, call that zero and continue until everything is zero. You won't get any better than that.
No way. I actually did this today after having so many failures setting my printer up! I just said let's set it with the fep, then just go up a few I guess. That's hilarious!
My Mono X came with a sheet that said to use for levelling. this is a thick paper when measured is much thicker than the Fep. I levelled the plate with this sheet without the vat and when the Vat is I thand the plate homed the Vat moves.I'm in the UK the paper sheet supplied is the same thickness as 160 gsm licht card my replacement FEP is half as thick.
Thanks for this, used this to re-zero and relevel after adding a magnetic plate to the bottom of the build plate, worked fine!
Is there a specific reason why 0.3mm, and not say 0.2mm or 0.4mm?
El tío va y nivela la plataforma con vaso y el FEP puesto.... Increible
Thank you, it worked!!!
i dont understand no leveling paper and with resin pool in place?
thank you very much it worked perfectly.
Normal Paperleveling works just fine with mono x.
No need to complexify things.
If you use a gasket or screen protector or if the LCD was installed with a little bit of lip or not flush completely perfect then the paper method doesn't really work as well. This is the only method that takes into account how the vat sits on the LCD
@@dooghouser6214 would you not just level it with the screen protector already on to adjust for this? That is what I did, haven't had any issues yet.
Complexify... awesome word! Just added it to my vocabulary! =D
Thanks.
Im trying this today, using anycubic eco resin (green) and with layer lock sheet on plate . Will update if the print fails..
Has anyone else had issues with the new Siraya Sculpt Ultra White sticking to their build plates? I had great performance with my Anycubic Photon and have 100's of hours of successful prints with that machine and this particular resin. I too had used the Flint method with the extra 0.3mm step up which worked perfectly every time. I've now upgraded to the Mono X and I still get great results but they are permanently bonded to the build plate. I mean really stuck requiring a chisel where I chip the attachments into a millions brittle fragments. I've reduced exposure times until it sticks to FEP instead. Obviously, not a solution. Also adjusted initial plate gap with no success using the 0.3mm gap. Going to flexible plate to try to solve. Are these build plates anodized? It seems like there is a fundamental issue with plate. The underside of resin base has what looks like a metal coating pulled off plate? Is it possible I'm tearing off oxide coating of aluminum? Sounds crazy, but true.
I keep trying this and it hasn't worked for my mono X.
Currently waiting for mine. Any tips/links on how to calibrate use different resins on the mono x?
th-cam.com/video/r9GwPEJ8Lq8/w-d-xo.html
Thanks for this, Frederick - my WhamBam flex plate arrived, and I know they recommend printing a 2.6mm spacer for the build plate before zeroing. Have you tried this Flint Read leveling method with a flex plate attachment? I would love to be able to set my Z without having to use the spacer, but thought I would ask!
I just got mine and found this comment. What did you end up doing? When I hit the home button, the build plate and the actuating arm are touching each other making leveling difficult.
@@Grimlong I went a bit extreme and got my Dremel tool out and cut back the tabs on the build plate to remove the line-to-line fit up you described. Although I only needed to do that after adding the magnetic plate assembly. It works fine now and still has a gap when aligning.
@@Grimlong I just found your finding of that comment! What did you end up doing? I'm sitting here with a magnetic bed and wondering why I couldn't use this same method once I slap the bed on
@@TTTristan1 I had to print out the spacer. If you search Mono X spacer it should come up.
@@TTTristan1 I've used a slim screw nut in the beginning bolting just the one screw , then I've printed the spacer and releveled.
wait.. you add a .2mm gap fromt the fep to the bed then set it as Zero?
Could you measure the build plate? I want to order a slam bam plate but not sure if the Saturn plate would work
The plate size is 202 x 128, so it’s different from the Saturn version.
But WhamBam should be releasing the Mono X version very soon.
I had 10 successful prints on the Mono X. For that past 8 tries, I have the flat print shape stuck to the FEP each time. I've leveled the printer, installed new FEP twice. Increased my bottom level curing time but still no success. I'm at my wits' end here. Please help.
I'm having the same problem. Everything was fine and then all of a sudden I can't get anything to stick to the plate properly.
th-cam.com/video/w7zwD9Z-ktc/w-d-xo.html
em... Not sure why you need to move Z up 0.3mm away?
There needs to be space between the build plate and FEP. If he z=0 with the build plate flat against the FEP there's no space for resin.
You don't zero it in (Z=0) once you get it screwed down!??!? Why???
He don’t zero it at that position because it would be too tight (notice that the tray will not move). He raise it, check if it is still tight then raise the height position again until the FEP tray do not rub against the platform anymore. Then assign that as the “zero” position.
Great video! I tried to change the FEP on my Mono X but when I was installing it I lost one of the tiny screws that hold the FEP between the two aluminum frame pieces. Do you know where can I get those?
Late answer, but any good hardware store should have them. Just take one of the other with you for comparison.
Ive been getting skin forming in my resin vat during each print. I suspected that it might be the build plate putting pressure on the lcd distorting the image... So When i leveled against some printer paper, I did a similar thing of raising it a few 0.1mm's... But did another print and still had skin... Maybe i need to raise it a little more but im running out of ideas. Do you know if your method fixes this?
Did yuo clean the vat before the next print? Sometime the Fep get little zones of resin..so
@@noway8233 it's not that. Seems to be a mix of too high a uv power... And maybe some lcd pressure distortion. Been modifying the settings seemed to have fixed it.
@@MD_Builds bro, I have similar issues with yours, have you find any solution for that?
@@irfandzulfikar7008 lower UV intensity to 50% or lower. Its the only way it seems. But youll have to compensate with slightly higher layer cure times. Also make sure the build plate isnt pressing too hard onto the lcd to distort it.
Other than that. Not really sure.
Won't it scratches the lcd screen?
What do you think of your printer? I was gunna buy one but went with an EPAX E10 instead.....trying to learn all the trix of the trade before it gets here.....
Do you screw the side pieces to the vat back on?
Be careful with step 6 thats an easy way to scratch you film, thats why the other methods use a sheet of paper
How did you get it so early? I've ordered mine Sep 10th and it says 45-60 days to delivery.
Early bird (first wave) sold out 3rd September, everything afterwards will be later, although if you by from banggood delivery is within a week
the recommended method of doing it on the screen with paper is completely bogus
I did the paper and had 3 fails right off the bat. I'm gonna try this and follow up. Very disappointed.
Genius!!
Not really
I tried this and it didn't help...
Meaning leveling wasn't the problem so what did it end up being?
Be really careful doing that. It's the most common way to damage a fep sheet. Especially when you check to see if the fep slides at the end.
The bottom of the standard anycubic build plate is soft, sanded, aluminum. It has lots of very sharp micro scratches in it under the best of circumstances. But if you've been scraping prints off it, then it can additionally have gauges and grooves in it that will scratch up your fep like little razor blades.
Something wrong here!!!!! If you manually move Z the optical sensor can't work, after homing again the platform get stuck on fep as it is Zero, 🤔🤔🤔🤔🤔🤔
Plate was level against FEP. He then raised 0.3mm and set z=0 so zero is ~0.3mm above the FEP.
这种方法对于中间有凹陷缺陷的平台来说,简直是灾难
你说的很明确。