!!!!! IMPORTANT UPDATE !!!!! The Neodymium Magnet upgrade DIDNT WORK! The magnet itself is more than strong enough to handle the resin shrinking. But the rubber compound the magnet is set in dissolves under printer resin. I attempted to seal the magnet with a Lacquer but have had no luck as after 15 or so prints the resin ate through the lacquer and attacked the magnet again. Do not do this upgrade unless you know a way to safely seal the lacquer from the resin. I have heard WHAMBAM flex beds still suffer from the same shrinkage issue. But I dont know for sure. I may test this later. I may also look again at fixing neodymium magnets in a plastic frame which was my first plan. But ive been really busy lately so Im not sure how much time I can put aside for that. Anyway IF you have done this mod. Be aware of the issues I've faced, I hope you have had better luck.
I had a similar issue on my regular mono , but it wasn't the magnetic bit which was dissolving, it was the glue and the rubber bit started peeling away at the edges. I took the whole thing off, cleaned off the adhesive and used original gorilla glue, which I checked was solvent proof, and glued it back on with that. It is holding up far better now. You have to really weigh it down whilst curing as gorilla glue expands... but the bonus is it expands out the edges and seals them too.... and needs sanding back a bit to neaten it.
Quite late reply to this but one thing you could try is to cure the resin that sticks to the magnet after a print and let the cured resin protect against the uncured resin. But perhaps you have another vide3o up by now on how you solved it or another way you found working.
@@gaming4fun419 I have considered that. Trouble is it would then make the magnet surface uneven I'm considering a laser cut frame, which then houses magnets. But I'd need a glue that won't be affected by the resin.
Base layer over exposure will cause excessive shrinkage, tuning the settings, using the correct raft (lychee) and model orientation (why are you printing near parallel) would have been your answer instead of looking for different magnets.
I had the same issue with mine which I only got a couple of weeks ago. They have upgraded it to include a LCD protector now however they updated the bed, it now sticks so much, that you literally need to chisel the part off. I did get a magnetic bed from amazon AU and so far, it has held up well. I had to play with bottom layer exposure settings to get it to stick though.
This technique worked for me. I purchased Neodymium magnets and affixed them to the spring steel build plate alternating the magnetic fields for more strength. I then placed this on a flat surface plate , but plate glass would do in a pinch. I then laid down a stripe of 2-ton epoxy on each magnet and placed the aluminum build plate on top and left it for three days to ensure it cured. The epoxy will fill irregularities in the alum build plate so no need to sand. I then filled the gaps between the magnets with silicone sealant which is impervious to the resin. Works great a year on and no degradation. The resin will eat the epoxy over time, hence the silicone sealant.
yeah pretty much what i was originally going to do. But with using a pom frame. I did a bit of laqure seal aroudn the magnet but it appears to be wearing out now... Ive pretty much stopped using the flex plate for what it was designed for and gone back to using a spatula to take the parts off. Which actually hasnt been difficult. The magnet upgrade in this video has pretty much been a monumental failure, but ive chosen not to take it down as it can be a learning experience... And for some strange reason its also my most watched video...
I bought a Wham Bam and it worked without any issues, I completely fill the build plate, and the suction forces never peel off the build plate, nor does the resin shrinking put it side ways, the sheet itself is made of spring steel I believe, and it always returns back to perfect shape....and their magnetic sheet sticks well, and it doesn't react at all to the resin (it does however react to my cleaning agent, and when I wipe it off I find a smear of black on the towel) I've also had the issues with the screen, and I received a replacement one but haven't replaced it yet
I On a 8 inch plate? I was warned it was a common issue, even with whambam... Maybe they do use a stronger magnet than the Chinese one I had. Ive stlil not got round to figureing out how best to seal the magnet yet. But if your cleaning agent (IPA?) is dissolving the magnet the resin almost certainly will too. Just in my case what ever binding agent is used, its more susceptible to the solvents :/
@@MD_Builds It's been with me for close to a year now, and it's still going strong, I'm not saying IPA disolves it, but it just comes out with slight black smear, sure it might not live forever, but I think it will last me at least another couple of years at least Yeah sealing will be very hard, ans you will often run a risk od contaminating the resin, plus most rubber sealants are silicone based so they might hurt how strong the plate attaches...it's a tough problem but I'm sure there's a workaround
I truly do appreciate your efforts to flatten your build plate, as, having read now several other sources who all note the Mono X plate may not be as flat as it should be, I will need to address this issue myself too. My own Mono X is still sealed in it's shipping carton, probably ten months after it shipped. As you say: You are always running behind. I am too.
if i were you I wouldn't worry about scuffing the aluminum build plate. It actually just helps the part stick to the build plate better and gives it more texture to grab onto. The other issue you mentioned with the resin on the LCD screen I'm also concerned with on mine
Very good video seems like you went through the ruff and succeeded at the end Do you have a link for the magnetic plate ext you used woudnt mind ordering it myself thankyou
when applying a flex plate you should leave the adhesive plate to bond to the platform for at least 72 hours before using, also theres a much better screen protector called bullet brand.
RE: your newest magnet and resin getting on it. It's most likely getting in there when you're removing the print. Print a drip hanger for build plate. That will get most of the resin, this is where being patient pays off. Once you think most of it has drained wipe the edges with a paper towel and proceed as normal.
but glass also spreads tension, so if there happens to be something loose int he resin i missed when filtering. its less likely to break the lcd glass.
Never buy the WhamBam or other stuff at least not for the Mono X. It can not hold the size. For almost a year I struggled with larger prints and even normal ones had problems. Weird though that you didn't need any adjustments on the detection flag with the alternative flexplate. So I bought a new buildplate and it is warped. WIth the Flexplate I could only print from the middle and now I can only print on the sides... I'm still in battle with Anycubic to send me a new plate after testing it for months. I tried to sand it but it's only touching the corners on an A4 on a mirror I ruined for that. Sanding just a few centimeters back and forth and around was too much for that 1mm difference so I stopped after a while. All in all with the Anti Aliasing missing on this machine and the lack of Elegoo Saturns back then, the Mono X was a really tough cookie to swallow and I print more models than most people wasting tons of resin in the process with these half prints that just stopped somewhere. I am currently being screwed over by the Elegoo Jupiter launch now, still no sign of even a shipping date since March. History repeats itself for me... GL!!
Good to know the whambam is just as bad as for pulling off. I have sprayed on an varnish for to try and protect the neoflex maget. So far it seems to be working... Im going to release a short update video soon on that. On later firmware's the mono x does have AA, you might need to update the firmware. And use newer chitu version as well.
Hey super interesting thank you so much... I personally find the background music a bit distracting over the voice over but maybe that's just me. Keep up the good work!
Yeah not the first time ive been told that... But i feel the background music helps keep the flow.... My voice overs are far from the best and the music helps hide that :p
@@MD_Builds ah fair enough, might I suggest something a little less intense, or something that leaves a little room for you? Or perhaps even take some of the top end off the music?
@@seblee Is the music really that peaky for you? I admit im actually partially deaf so when I do my mixing i might be missing out on some frequencies peaking through the voice too much...
hey seems everyone tries to jam off their prints with a spatchula. theres a trick, not mine but it works. boil some water in a kettle, pour it over the contact areas of object and build plate. take a long blade box cutter and cut it right off. works like a damn
Not that you need to cut glass now, but the average CO2 laser does not cut it. It actually explodes it by fracturing it so no not a clean cut. You can get better engraving on glasses etc by laying wet paper on them and engraving through it. Keeps it cooler I believe. Never bothered with glass on my laser. And as to the best way to cut stuff on the laser and not get an issue with the back, I have my stock sit on 27mm high dog collar spikes, works great and they have magnets glued to the bottom and I have a 1 mm thick steel plate on top of my bed. Oh and I also have a Mono x. And when there a bit hard to get off, I wash off the uncured resin then soat in hot water straight from the tap for about 3 minits, pop off easy then. Also apparently putting it in the frezzer for 20 mins help's. Shrinks the plate but I have not tried it, hot water works for me.
@@MD_Builds unfortunately I could not home with two magnets so what I finally did is sit the build plate next to a heater for a couple of hours. After that it was well bonded such that I could not detach it even if I wanted to.
Did you ever end up having to find a sealer to protect the magnet adhesive from being eaten away by the resin? I've noticed my magnet has started peeling away and I'm wondering if there's a way to protect it from the resin. Thanks for the help and detailed video.
@@sodapop2214 NO PLEASE DONT DO ANYTHING THIS MAN DID ALL IT IS THAT HIS BOTTOM EXPOSURE SETTINGS ARE WAY TO LONG THAT HES BAKING THE BOTTOM LAYERS ON TO THE BUILD PLATE ALL YOU NEED IS 20 TO 30 SECONDS MAX AND YOU WILL HAVE GREAT PRINTS NOT BAKING TO THE BUILD PLATE PLEASE DONT MAKE THIS MANS HORRIBLE MISTAKES
I'm thinking about getting a spare build plate and drilling holes from the top to within ~3mm of the build surface. The holes would be large enough to drop in a few neodymium magnets and fill back in with something to keep the resin out. What are your thoughts? Do you think it will work?
Funnily i was going to do something similar before I eventually found the neoflex magnets. Given that there might be some degradation to the magnet medium, I might end up doing this still... I'm actually planning to get a CNC machine later this year, I might end up making my own bed and putting magnets in. It might work? Its all experimentation at this point.
I had to sand the shit out of my build plate to get it flat. Im talking about it taking a few hours to do. I still have some work to do on it but it is working just fine now. Was considering taking it to a local machine shop and have them re-surface it.
Yeah if its bad, take photos of it against a straight edge like a metal ruler. (or a straight edge tool :D ) They would send you a new base plate. But yeah I used my old base plate to put the magnet bed onto. So i had to sand that flat too... Took a good long while. Best to start with a more rough paper and then go to a medium grain for the final pass. Use glass or a good true flat granite surface.
This was a great video. Thank you. I just got a Mono X and haven't even taken it out of the box yet. Thanks to your video, I just placed orders for the screen protector and magnetic build plate. I will check the flatness of my print bed first when I unbox it. You're the second person I've heard comment on the flatness and had it replaced. Also, good to know about sanding if necessary. I have a vinyl cutter and I will be cutting it to fit like you did. Thanks for going through all that and reporting back. You're doing God's work, brother lol.
Another thought: Older peeps like me might struggle to simply lift the shield now and again. So I had the idea to place steel plates atop the shield and fix flat magnets up underneath, thereby allowing the capture of the shield while (whilst?) not piercing it in any way. Then rig a motorized up-down fixture to do the dirty lifting work. Perhaps a rig using 3D manufactured parts.... :D From what I've seen so far, you are a thoughtful guy, as to using your tools. I like to think the same of myself, and I'm often--though only still thought experiments--working through my own rig. Not that far from getting it going, mind you. It's in the spill tray, on top of the table...and next to the exhaust window. Just have to pipe the fumes out, really.
Did you ever find a way to protect your new magnet? On your recommendation I installed these on my printers and they work AMAZING! But I am also having the issue of deterioration, especially around the edges where it makes contact with the resin. Thank you!
Not yet. I think I might need to research into some kind of sealing or enamel paint. Not sure what yet. It would need to be something that would also not react with the solvents in the resin, or IPA. And yeah the magnet itself does an amazing job. Its just a shame the binder theyre using doesnt seem to be protected. I have been printing with it still. And the damage seems to only be at the very edge at the moment... But eventually i imagine it will eat in.
@@MD_Builds Wow! Thanks for the lightning fast reply! Yeah I use the little plastic spatula to wedge under the lip of the flex plate and that's wearing that corner a whole lot more, I ordered extra magnets to keep on hand and replace as needed. I was also thinking perhaps an enamel of some sort but I think it may need to be applied onto a fresh magnet so it has the hardy structure and less flex to work with. I also considered shrink wrapping the whole thing into a thermal pouch. Something like a lamination material that shrinks with heat. Maybe get it all covered, then hit it with some heat. I can't find anything large enough for now, but I'd say that would make a really interesting video. Let me know what you think.
@@generationace Im always around :p The trouble with shrink wrap is it might not properly seal it and resin will seep in and never get away... That would eat through it a lot more quickly...
@@MD_Builds I was thinking of shrink wrapping the whole plate all the way up past the leveling screws. There has to be some way of sealing it and my concern with a varnish type solution is the wear from rubbing against the metal flex plate. I guess that would also apply to the shrink wrap.
www.amazon.co.uk/gp/product/B016WPO9HQ So far no sure fire fix... not really sure what to do about at this time. Ive not done much resin printing this last few months as ive been finishing another project. Will need to do some tests.
Hi Loki, yeah its one of the projects I REALLY want to get on with. My plan is to get the new resin parts finished and painted up and attached... And then post a update video on it. With later doing the electronics and controls for a 4th and final version. No real ETA just yet. But im a few weeks away from finishing this other project. Then say 2 maybe 3 weeks to get on with the big two parter video... Im then going to take a little break maybe a week and just chill out as this has been a huge stress giver lately. Then along with some other projects ill be resuming work on the stargate! I guess expect something late autumn.
hello!, the video is very interesting! I would like to know if it has happened to you that the fep sticks when the plate is raised, making a suction effect each time it rises. I have tried to decrease the upload speed of the plate and change exposure times but I still cannot print with quality and without that suction effect continuing to pass, by the way, I have a screen protector installed and with 80% UV.
firstly lower your UV level, most people find that UV above 50% causes a lot of light bleed through the mask and causes skin to form in the vat. Suction is part of the problem with resin printing and its about finding the right balance, it might also be that your build plate might not be rough enough to counter the suction, and or your FEP has become too used and rough. Some people have tried putting PTFE lube and rubbing it into the FEP. But you want to make sure theres no visible residue left and its just the finest of films on the FEP. but iv had trouble finding the stuff here in the UK and seems to be mostly a US thing. The thick foaming ptfe chain lube for bikes isnt the same stuff. But i have tried it, and not sure its helped. Outside of that Im not sure what more to suggest, You might just need to replace your fep.
I run everything at 50%, but different resins need different curing times. You need to do your own experiments... As some transparant resins at this power level only need 2 or 3 seconds. And some others need even 10 seconds....
I have the Mono X 4k, saw they are releasing the 6K version, the obvious question is can i upgrade from a 4k to a 6k screen? It's that plug and play or does it require additional parts?
As a maker and developer.... Yes it should be possible. And the mainboard is likely the same model. But youll need a firmware update that would support the new display... How much Chitu have made the old control boards compatible with the new 6k screens is anyone's guess.... But normally no you wont be able to just replace it.
Mangy_Dog It’s so annoying, the point was to be able to replace the screens with higher resolution to reduce the layer artifacts, without the printers being upgradable they will become obsolete in a year or two. Also got a Transform and someone posted that the mono version for that has a 6k screen the issue is the conversion to Mono costs as much as another printer which doesn’t make sense. Hopefully a firmware and a guide will be made available, these companies need to keep developing these printers, not abandon them after a year when new versions come out.
@@TheIcemanModdeler well... The higher res screen won't reduse layer lines. You can reduce the layer heights to 0.01 if you like. It will just make the prints finer detailed. The 4k still gives roughly 0.05mm voxels, which is why that's an optimal layer height. The 6k will be finer. But with decent AA turned on. You might not notice the difference all that much.
Mangy_Dog On my Transform there are artifacts but in the MonoX the artifacts are finer. Having a higher resolution screen will reduce them, I’m using an older version of Chitubox, think it’s 1.6.5, haven’t printed anything last year but last I checked it works great, just have AA turned on.
Not sure I can actually... I made it on the fly at the time. Probebly not saved. If you have a cutter. Just measure inside and outside dimensions you need and setup your cut.
Good question... I did try sealing it by exposing it to UV as im sure some resin already impregnated into it....... But ive not done any printing for the last few months so ive not checked... I really should.
@@fw_uke_ha I really cant say if it would work... and really you only want the thinnest of residue on there as anything thicker could throw off the flatness of the thing... Personally I feel like some kind of strong lacquer spray might be better for sealing it. Something that wont react with the solvents in the resin though.
@@MD_Builds As many others using these kind of flex plates, it might be not a popper magnetic foil. The magnetic glue pads I saw where pretty riget and not bendable and soft.
With your laser cutting issue, I wonder if you could take the approach of cutting under a thin layer of water. Recently the Applied Science channel did a video on using a laser to cut ceramic with lists of experimentation, his video is here: th-cam.com/video/kxXEI0Ce6C0/w-d-xo.html
The Z blocks on my Mono X were garbage. Crunchy, crunchy, crunchy. Bought new and a grease adapter for my gun.. My lead screw wore out the nut fast. Replaced that also....
too much trouble to ruin the fun mate, just use stock supply and grab a screen protector for the screen, they are designed to use without any trouble, if you have trouble just request for replacement or return it
If you watch the video all the way through, I do say I found that chitu are now selling glass screen protectors for these printers. And I ended up using that. And the recommendation is people do that too... My videos are more of a story of the journey kinda thing. Slightly like your great uncles holiday slide photo talk you had to sit through because it's polite to and you don't want to hurt his feelings!
Turns out trying to save money by buying cheap just costs you more buying a replacement for the crap that didn't work as advertised. Time wasted not worth it. Just get the best that's been reviewed and save yourself time and a headache.
Dont let my video put you off, it still a great printer. Its been my workhorse. Also i think since I made this video they made some changes. Including improoved flatness and new textured build plate. And i think it now comes with a screen protector. But not sure. If not. You can easily buy them.
Don't let that stop you. I bought a totally filthy printer from someone who didn't enjoy it and only produced faulty prints. Cleaned it properly, removed all the faults and it prints beautifully.
Looks like many of your problems are caused due to Penny pitching by buying cheap Chinese clones and not going with brands that actually sell a product that's already been tested.. I mean I get trying to save a few bucks but you sacrificed on quality control and you got what you got.. a headache. Sometimes trying to save a few bucks is totally not worth the headache
NO PLEASE DONT DO WHAT HE DID TO HIS BUILD PLATE THAT IS MISSINFORMATION I BEG YOU PLEASE DONT DO WHAT THIS MAN DID ALL YOU HAVE TO DO IS SET YOUR BOTTOM EXPOSURE TO 20 TO 30 MAX AND IT WILL EASILY COME OFF THE BUILD PLATE YOU WONT HAVE TO PRY IT OF VERY BAD ADVICE. YOU ARE RUINING IT FOR NOOBS THAT ARE BARELY GETTING INTO THE HOBBY. PLEASE I REPEAT DONT DO ANYTHING THIS MAN WRONLY DID SMH
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!!!!! IMPORTANT UPDATE !!!!!
The Neodymium Magnet upgrade DIDNT WORK!
The magnet itself is more than strong enough to handle the resin shrinking. But the rubber compound the magnet is set in dissolves under printer resin.
I attempted to seal the magnet with a Lacquer but have had no luck as after 15 or so prints the resin ate through the lacquer and attacked the magnet again.
Do not do this upgrade unless you know a way to safely seal the lacquer from the resin.
I have heard WHAMBAM flex beds still suffer from the same shrinkage issue. But I dont know for sure. I may test this later.
I may also look again at fixing neodymium magnets in a plastic frame which was my first plan. But ive been really busy lately so Im not sure how much time I can put aside for that.
Anyway IF you have done this mod. Be aware of the issues I've faced, I hope you have had better luck.
I had a similar issue on my regular mono
, but it wasn't the magnetic bit which was dissolving, it was the glue and the rubber bit started peeling away at the edges. I took the whole thing off, cleaned off the adhesive and used original gorilla glue, which I checked was solvent proof, and glued it back on with that. It is holding up far better now. You have to really weigh it down whilst curing as gorilla glue expands... but the bonus is it expands out the edges and seals them too.... and needs sanding back a bit to neaten it.
Quite late reply to this but one thing you could try is to cure the resin that sticks to the magnet after a print and let the cured resin protect against the uncured resin. But perhaps you have another vide3o up by now on how you solved it or another way you found working.
@@gaming4fun419 I have considered that. Trouble is it would then make the magnet surface uneven I'm considering a laser cut frame, which then houses magnets. But I'd need a glue that won't be affected by the resin.
Base layer over exposure will cause excessive shrinkage, tuning the settings, using the correct raft (lychee) and model orientation (why are you printing near parallel) would have been your answer instead of looking for different magnets.
and also depending on the Resin. did print max size of the mono x and never had problem with proper exposing.
THIS MANS VIDEO IS SUCH BAD ADVICE THAT NOOBS ARE GOING TO HAVE A BAD EXPERIENCE BECAUSE PEOPLE LIKE THIS GIVING HORRIBLE ADVICE
I had the same issue with mine which I only got a couple of weeks ago. They have upgraded it to include a LCD protector now however they updated the bed, it now sticks so much, that you literally need to chisel the part off. I did get a magnetic bed from amazon AU and so far, it has held up well. I had to play with bottom layer exposure settings to get it to stick though.
This technique worked for me. I purchased Neodymium magnets and affixed them to the spring steel build plate alternating the magnetic fields for more strength. I then placed this on a flat surface plate , but plate glass would do in a pinch. I then laid down a stripe of 2-ton epoxy on each magnet and placed the aluminum build plate on top and left it for three days to ensure it cured. The epoxy will fill irregularities in the alum build plate so no need to sand. I then filled the gaps between the magnets with silicone sealant which is impervious to the resin. Works great a year on and no degradation. The resin will eat the epoxy over time, hence the silicone sealant.
yeah pretty much what i was originally going to do. But with using a pom frame. I did a bit of laqure seal aroudn the magnet but it appears to be wearing out now... Ive pretty much stopped using the flex plate for what it was designed for and gone back to using a spatula to take the parts off. Which actually hasnt been difficult.
The magnet upgrade in this video has pretty much been a monumental failure, but ive chosen not to take it down as it can be a learning experience... And for some strange reason its also my most watched video...
I bought a Wham Bam and it worked without any issues, I completely fill the build plate, and the suction forces never peel off the build plate, nor does the resin shrinking put it side ways, the sheet itself is made of spring steel I believe, and it always returns back to perfect shape....and their magnetic sheet sticks well, and it doesn't react at all to the resin (it does however react to my cleaning agent, and when I wipe it off I find a smear of black on the towel)
I've also had the issues with the screen, and I received a replacement one but haven't replaced it yet
I On a 8 inch plate? I was warned it was a common issue, even with whambam... Maybe they do use a stronger magnet than the Chinese one I had. Ive stlil not got round to figureing out how best to seal the magnet yet. But if your cleaning agent (IPA?) is dissolving the magnet the resin almost certainly will too. Just in my case what ever binding agent is used, its more susceptible to the solvents :/
@@MD_Builds It's been with me for close to a year now, and it's still going strong, I'm not saying IPA disolves it, but it just comes out with slight black smear, sure it might not live forever, but I think it will last me at least another couple of years at least
Yeah sealing will be very hard, ans you will often run a risk od contaminating the resin, plus most rubber sealants are silicone based so they might hurt how strong the plate attaches...it's a tough problem but I'm sure there's a workaround
I truly do appreciate your efforts to flatten your build plate, as, having read now several other sources who all note the Mono X plate may not be as flat as it should be, I will need to address this issue myself too. My own Mono X is still sealed in it's shipping carton, probably ten months after it shipped. As you say: You are always running behind. I am too.
if i were you I wouldn't worry about scuffing the aluminum build plate. It actually just helps the part stick to the build plate better and gives it more texture to grab onto. The other issue you mentioned with the resin on the LCD screen I'm also concerned with on mine
Very good video seems like you went through the ruff and succeeded at the end
Do you have a link for the magnetic plate ext you used woudnt mind ordering it myself thankyou
when applying a flex plate you should leave the adhesive plate to bond to the platform for at least 72 hours before using, also theres a much better screen protector called bullet brand.
After cleaning my print on the bed, I soak the whole thing in hot water from the tap. Prints peal right off… supports come off cleaner to
RE: your newest magnet and resin getting on it. It's most likely getting in there when you're removing the print. Print a drip hanger for build plate. That will get most of the resin, this is where being patient pays off. Once you think most of it has drained wipe the edges with a paper towel and proceed as normal.
Did u change any settings in the chitbux slicer ? if yes , which?
A transparent plastic sheet does the trick protecting the screen and does mot take one month to arrive!
but glass also spreads tension, so if there happens to be something loose int he resin i missed when filtering. its less likely to break the lcd glass.
Never buy the WhamBam or other stuff at least not for the Mono X. It can not hold the size. For almost a year I struggled with larger prints and even normal ones had problems.
Weird though that you didn't need any adjustments on the detection flag with the alternative flexplate.
So I bought a new buildplate and it is warped. WIth the Flexplate I could only print from the middle and now I can only print on the sides... I'm still in battle with Anycubic to send me a new plate after testing it for months. I tried to sand it but it's only touching the corners on an A4 on a mirror I ruined for that. Sanding just a few centimeters back and forth and around was too much for that 1mm difference so I stopped after a while.
All in all with the Anti Aliasing missing on this machine and the lack of Elegoo Saturns back then, the Mono X was a really tough cookie to swallow and I print more models than most people wasting tons of resin in the process with these half prints that just stopped somewhere.
I am currently being screwed over by the Elegoo Jupiter launch now, still no sign of even a shipping date since March. History repeats itself for me... GL!!
Good to know the whambam is just as bad as for pulling off. I have sprayed on an varnish for to try and protect the neoflex maget. So far it seems to be working... Im going to release a short update video soon on that. On later firmware's the mono x does have AA, you might need to update the firmware. And use newer chitu version as well.
Hey super interesting thank you so much... I personally find the background music a bit distracting over the voice over but maybe that's just me. Keep up the good work!
Yeah not the first time ive been told that... But i feel the background music helps keep the flow.... My voice overs are far from the best and the music helps hide that :p
@@MD_Builds ah fair enough, might I suggest something a little less intense, or something that leaves a little room for you? Or perhaps even take some of the top end off the music?
@@seblee Is the music really that peaky for you? I admit im actually partially deaf so when I do my mixing i might be missing out on some frequencies peaking through the voice too much...
@@MD_Builds I found it quite fatiguing but I am somewhat sensitive to this kind of thing.
hey seems everyone tries to jam off their prints with a spatchula. theres a trick, not mine but it works. boil some water in a kettle, pour it over the contact areas of object and build plate. take a long blade box cutter and cut it right off. works like a damn
Not a terrible idea but it's a big faff to have to boil water and heat the build plate each print. Also very messy
do you still happen to have the template for the black gasket vinyl that seals around the display?
Not on hand. I just measured it up and cut it on the laser.
Not that you need to cut glass now, but the average CO2 laser does not cut it. It actually explodes it by fracturing it so no not a clean cut. You can get better engraving on glasses etc by laying wet paper on them and engraving through it. Keeps it cooler I believe. Never bothered with glass on my laser. And as to the best way to cut stuff on the laser and not get an issue with the back, I have my stock sit on 27mm high dog collar spikes, works great and they have magnets glued to the bottom and I have a 1 mm thick steel plate on top of my bed. Oh and I also have a Mono x. And when there a bit hard to get off, I wash off the uncured resin then soat in hot water straight from the tap for about 3 minits, pop off easy then. Also apparently putting it in the frezzer for 20 mins help's. Shrinks the plate but I have not tried it, hot water works for me.
I actually used two magnets together from the chinese brand. Stuck the magnet on the plate and the other magnet on the flex plate. It works for me.
Thats an interesting idea. And it held up when you had a large base layer?
@@MD_Builds unfortunately I could not home with two magnets so what I finally did is sit the build plate next to a heater for a couple of hours. After that it was well bonded such that I could not detach it even if I wanted to.
Did you ever end up having to find a sealer to protect the magnet adhesive from being eaten away by the resin? I've noticed my magnet has started peeling away and I'm wondering if there's a way to protect it from the resin.
Thanks for the help and detailed video.
not yet but ive been so busy and too cold to use the resin printer at the moment anyway. But i really should check in on it!
@@MD_Builds thanks for the update. Would love to know what you find.
@@sodapop2214 NO PLEASE DONT DO ANYTHING THIS MAN DID ALL IT IS THAT HIS BOTTOM EXPOSURE SETTINGS ARE WAY TO LONG THAT HES BAKING THE BOTTOM LAYERS ON TO THE BUILD PLATE ALL YOU NEED IS 20 TO 30 SECONDS MAX AND YOU WILL HAVE GREAT PRINTS NOT BAKING TO THE BUILD PLATE PLEASE DONT MAKE THIS MANS HORRIBLE MISTAKES
I suppose the largest moral I took from this story is that buying cheap things from China will cost you more in lost time.
I'm thinking about getting a spare build plate and drilling holes from the top to within ~3mm of the build surface. The holes would be large enough to drop in a few neodymium magnets and fill back in with something to keep the resin out. What are your thoughts? Do you think it will work?
Funnily i was going to do something similar before I eventually found the neoflex magnets. Given that there might be some degradation to the magnet medium, I might end up doing this still... I'm actually planning to get a CNC machine later this year, I might end up making my own bed and putting magnets in. It might work? Its all experimentation at this point.
I had to sand the shit out of my build plate to get it flat. Im talking about it taking a few hours to do. I still have some work to do on it but it is working just fine now. Was considering taking it to a local machine shop and have them re-surface it.
Yeah if its bad, take photos of it against a straight edge like a metal ruler. (or a straight edge tool :D ) They would send you a new base plate.
But yeah I used my old base plate to put the magnet bed onto. So i had to sand that flat too... Took a good long while. Best to start with a more rough paper and then go to a medium grain for the final pass. Use glass or a good true flat granite surface.
This was a great video. Thank you. I just got a Mono X and haven't even taken it out of the box yet. Thanks to your video, I just placed orders for the screen protector and magnetic build plate. I will check the flatness of my print bed first when I unbox it. You're the second person I've heard comment on the flatness and had it replaced. Also, good to know about sanding if necessary. I have a vinyl cutter and I will be cutting it to fit like you did. Thanks for going through all that and reporting back. You're doing God's work, brother lol.
Another thought: Older peeps like me might struggle to simply lift the shield now and again. So I had the idea to place steel plates atop the shield and fix flat magnets up underneath, thereby allowing the capture of the shield while (whilst?) not piercing it in any way. Then rig a motorized up-down fixture to do the dirty lifting work. Perhaps a rig using 3D manufactured parts.... :D
From what I've seen so far, you are a thoughtful guy, as to using your tools. I like to think the same of myself, and I'm often--though only still thought experiments--working through my own rig.
Not that far from getting it going, mind you. It's in the spill tray, on top of the table...and next to the exhaust window. Just have to pipe the fumes out, really.
Did you ever find a way to protect your new magnet? On your recommendation I installed these on my printers and they work AMAZING! But I am also having the issue of deterioration, especially around the edges where it makes contact with the resin.
Thank you!
Not yet. I think I might need to research into some kind of sealing or enamel paint. Not sure what yet. It would need to be something that would also not react with the solvents in the resin, or IPA. And yeah the magnet itself does an amazing job. Its just a shame the binder theyre using doesnt seem to be protected. I have been printing with it still. And the damage seems to only be at the very edge at the moment... But eventually i imagine it will eat in.
@@MD_Builds Wow! Thanks for the lightning fast reply!
Yeah I use the little plastic spatula to wedge under the lip of the flex plate and that's wearing that corner a whole lot more, I ordered extra magnets to keep on hand and replace as needed.
I was also thinking perhaps an enamel of some sort but I think it may need to be applied onto a fresh magnet so it has the hardy structure and less flex to work with. I also considered shrink wrapping the whole thing into a thermal pouch. Something like a lamination material that shrinks with heat. Maybe get it all covered, then hit it with some heat. I can't find anything large enough for now, but I'd say that would make a really interesting video. Let me know what you think.
@@generationace Im always around :p The trouble with shrink wrap is it might not properly seal it and resin will seep in and never get away... That would eat through it a lot more quickly...
@@MD_Builds I was thinking of shrink wrapping the whole plate all the way up past the leveling screws. There has to be some way of sealing it and my concern with a varnish type solution is the wear from rubbing against the metal flex plate. I guess that would also apply to the shrink wrap.
Can I get a link to the Magnetic replacement you found? (Amazon?)
Any fixes to the magnetic resin reaction?
www.amazon.co.uk/gp/product/B016WPO9HQ So far no sure fire fix... not really sure what to do about at this time. Ive not done much resin printing this last few months as ive been finishing another project. Will need to do some tests.
How did you know the plate wasn't level?. I noticed mine looks like one side is lower than the other by resin level but prints lvl
I used a straight edge. But you can use a metal ruler too... Anything with a true straight can be used to see if theres a curve in the plate.
I see you are removing the printer cover next to a window, doesn't this slightly start curing the vat resin?
Not really, it's a dark corner of the house. Not in direct sunlight.
just discovered your channel thru your stargate project, i look forward to any future updates!
Hi Loki, yeah its one of the projects I REALLY want to get on with. My plan is to get the new resin parts finished and painted up and attached... And then post a update video on it. With later doing the electronics and controls for a 4th and final version. No real ETA just yet. But im a few weeks away from finishing this other project. Then say 2 maybe 3 weeks to get on with the big two parter video... Im then going to take a little break maybe a week and just chill out as this has been a huge stress giver lately.
Then along with some other projects ill be resuming work on the stargate!
I guess expect something late autumn.
To cut glass. Is easy mate... just use a glass cutter..
They are cheap and very easy ...
It's plastic laminated glass... You can't use a traditional cutter on them.
hello!, the video is very interesting! I would like to know if it has happened to you that the fep sticks when the plate is raised, making a suction effect each time it rises. I have tried to decrease the upload speed of the plate and change exposure times but I still cannot print with quality and without that suction effect continuing to pass, by the way, I have a screen protector installed and with 80% UV.
firstly lower your UV level, most people find that UV above 50% causes a lot of light bleed through the mask and causes skin to form in the vat.
Suction is part of the problem with resin printing and its about finding the right balance, it might also be that your build plate might not be rough enough to counter the suction, and or your FEP has become too used and rough.
Some people have tried putting PTFE lube and rubbing it into the FEP. But you want to make sure theres no visible residue left and its just the finest of films on the FEP.
but iv had trouble finding the stuff here in the UK and seems to be mostly a US thing. The thick foaming ptfe chain lube for bikes isnt the same stuff. But i have tried it, and not sure its helped.
Outside of that Im not sure what more to suggest, You might just need to replace your fep.
what is a good uv power % for translucent resin?
I run everything at 50%, but different resins need different curing times. You need to do your own experiments... As some transparant resins at this power level only need 2 or 3 seconds. And some others need even 10 seconds....
@@MD_Builds thanks for info
I have the Mono X 4k, saw they are releasing the 6K version, the obvious question is can i upgrade from a 4k to a 6k screen? It's that plug and play or does it require additional parts?
As a maker and developer.... Yes it should be possible. And the mainboard is likely the same model. But youll need a firmware update that would support the new display... How much Chitu have made the old control boards compatible with the new 6k screens is anyone's guess.... But normally no you wont be able to just replace it.
Mangy_Dog It’s so annoying, the point was to be able to replace the screens with higher resolution to reduce the layer artifacts, without the printers being upgradable they will become obsolete in a year or two. Also got a Transform and someone posted that the mono version for that has a 6k screen the issue is the conversion to Mono costs as much as another printer which doesn’t make sense. Hopefully a firmware and a guide will be made available, these companies need to keep developing these printers, not abandon them after a year when new versions come out.
@@TheIcemanModdeler well... The higher res screen won't reduse layer lines. You can reduce the layer heights to 0.01 if you like. It will just make the prints finer detailed. The 4k still gives roughly 0.05mm voxels, which is why that's an optimal layer height. The 6k will be finer. But with decent AA turned on. You might not notice the difference all that much.
Mangy_Dog On my Transform there are artifacts but in the MonoX the artifacts are finer. Having a higher resolution screen will reduce them, I’m using an older version of Chitubox, think it’s 1.6.5, haven’t printed anything last year but last I checked it works great, just have AA turned on.
where did you get your funnel
Made it myself.
Truly Epic Gate Man
can you share the file to cut the screen protector and seal?
Not sure I can actually... I made it on the fly at the time. Probebly not saved.
If you have a cutter. Just measure inside and outside dimensions you need and setup your cut.
Short Question: Is the magnetic foil still good or did the resin destroyed the foil after more printing?
Good question... I did try sealing it by exposing it to UV as im sure some resin already impregnated into it.......
But ive not done any printing for the last few months so ive not checked... I really should.
@@MD_Builds Thx for the UV Light Curing tip, will try this! And thanks for the reply!
@@fw_uke_ha I really cant say if it would work... and really you only want the thinnest of residue on there as anything thicker could throw off the flatness of the thing... Personally I feel like some kind of strong lacquer spray might be better for sealing it. Something that wont react with the solvents in the resin though.
@@MD_Builds As many others using these kind of flex plates, it might be not a popper magnetic foil. The magnetic glue pads I saw where pretty riget and not bendable and soft.
Do you make external projects for other people ? I'm interested in commission a job for you.
I can do, but if its a job, id have to go with a freelance rate. I would need to know more about the job though. msg me on twitter @MD_Builds
Hi how are you, do you want explain me about differents printers mono x models PJ089Y2VD or TM089
With your laser cutting issue, I wonder if you could take the approach of cutting under a thin layer of water. Recently the Applied Science channel did a video on using a laser to cut ceramic with lists of experimentation, his video is here: th-cam.com/video/kxXEI0Ce6C0/w-d-xo.html
But adding the metal plate don't you've need to recalibrate the Z?
Yeah you will need too
@@MD_Builds thanks!
Chitubox for Photon Mono X not work pwx is not good read only pwmx how do you do?
Update chitu
The Z blocks on my Mono X were garbage. Crunchy, crunchy, crunchy. Bought new and a grease adapter for my gun.. My lead screw wore out the nut fast. Replaced that also....
too much trouble to ruin the fun mate, just use stock supply and grab a screen protector for the screen, they are designed to use without any trouble, if you have trouble just request for replacement or return it
If you watch the video all the way through, I do say I found that chitu are now selling glass screen protectors for these printers. And I ended up using that. And the recommendation is people do that too... My videos are more of a story of the journey kinda thing. Slightly like your great uncles holiday slide photo talk you had to sit through because it's polite to and you don't want to hurt his feelings!
Turns out trying to save money by buying cheap just costs you more buying a replacement for the crap that didn't work as advertised. Time wasted not worth it. Just get the best that's been reviewed and save yourself time and a headache.
Not true at all. I use wham bams on all my printers, up to the peopoly phenom. You get what you pay for.
apologize from my dog too!
Your main thing screw nut you dint change it....
bro o_0
hmm?
Nobody that comes the first time to your channel wants to hear all this bla bla bla about some random project in the beginning of your video.
Good to know.
@@MD_Builds yeah sorry... You are the fifth channel in a row with intros like this. I could have been more cautious writing this.
5th in a row? That might be because there could be a background to a project. As if theres a continuation of a story or something.
Your certainly convinced me not to buy this printer
Dont let my video put you off, it still a great printer. Its been my workhorse.
Also i think since I made this video they made some changes. Including improoved flatness and new textured build plate. And i think it now comes with a screen protector. But not sure. If not. You can easily buy them.
Don't let that stop you. I bought a totally filthy printer from someone who didn't enjoy it and only produced faulty prints. Cleaned it properly, removed all the faults and it prints beautifully.
too much dramas,
Looks like many of your problems are caused due to Penny pitching by buying cheap Chinese clones and not going with brands that actually sell a product that's already been tested.. I mean I get trying to save a few bucks but you sacrificed on quality control and you got what you got.. a headache. Sometimes trying to save a few bucks is totally not worth the headache
Believe it or not... Im poor....... honestly I am. So I have to save wherever possible. Otherwise id never be able to do any of the things I do.
NO PLEASE DONT DO WHAT HE DID TO HIS BUILD PLATE THAT IS MISSINFORMATION I BEG YOU PLEASE DONT DO WHAT THIS MAN DID ALL YOU HAVE TO DO IS SET YOUR BOTTOM EXPOSURE TO 20 TO 30 MAX AND IT WILL EASILY COME OFF THE BUILD PLATE YOU WONT HAVE TO PRY IT OF VERY BAD ADVICE. YOU ARE RUINING IT FOR NOOBS THAT ARE BARELY GETTING INTO THE HOBBY. PLEASE I REPEAT DONT DO ANYTHING THIS MAN WRONLY DID SMH
Instead of getting your caps lock stuck. Please explain what misinformation I've given?
Too much bla bla bla
Feel free not to watch it...
@@MD_Builds 'zactly.