Well done! Thank you for recognizing that these stoves are GASIFIERS! There are so many you tubers that do not actually know what they are talking about in that regard. I have seen multiple you tubers claim that these stoves are not "Wood Gas" stoves. They could've easily looked up the info from the Toaks company's website which states that yes, it is a wood gas stove. You did a great job in demonstrating the gasification ability of these stoves!
These are really amazing gasifiers indeed- they do get rather hot on the bottom- need to be careful of that- but otherwise, perhaps the best ones out there
I keep seeing the same thing, yet the construction is similar to all the other wood gas stoves. But then all the other videos I see they pile the sticks way over the "fresh hot air ports."
your stoves both make a lot of soot. You can cure the soot problem and get the stoves to burn with lower emission with a hotter flame and a longer overall burn time. All you need to do is to block off some of the primary intake holes at the bottom of the burn pot. This is easy to do and it requires no physical changes to your existing stove. Take a used tin can lid and trim it to easily fit into the bottom of the burn pot, one for each stove trim the lids so that you have three equally spaced 3/16" wide legs attached to a solid disk in the centre of the lid, the three legs will keep the solid part of the disk in the centre of the bottom of the pot. Make the solid disk section large enough to cover 1/3 of the bottom area of the pot. This will be a good starting point, Don't make any holes in the centre of the disk as this allows the stove to draft straight up out of your pot taking away heat you need to have a hotter more efficient burn. Give this simple tweak a try and I am sure you will be happy. You can experiment with the area that the disk covers a larger area may increase the length of the overall burn but at some point the stove will start to starve and stall as it is burning down. I hope that this is of interest and of some use and it will solve your soot problem.
This is awesome! Ive only had my mini Toaks for a while and ive been struggling to figure out the best way to load it up, and the vertical method you use is genius! Thank you for sharing and ill definitely be trying it soon 🤘
I am having trouble with my small stove and was hoping you have advice. I have loaded it like you do in the video, however the wood seems to go out once the top 10mm of the wood is burnt black. I used seasoned dried wood and made the pieces the same size as your video. I packed it tight enough so the pieces don't rotate when I rotate the stove on its side. It showed gasification like in your video for about 60 seconds then went out. Any advice is appreciated.
Hi! Thanks for sharing. We apreciate a lot. Do you think it could be possible to combine both sizes to maybe have a bigger double combustion chamber? probably avoiding using the pot stands and adding some sort of legs to keep the exterior walls deployed/extended... Just thinking if it could be possible to increase the loading capacity and making it a pure gasifier (from top to bottom). Do you think it would need some additions also? Comment/share if you see another possibilities too! New ideas wellcome! Thanks in advance!
Have you tried using just the bottom 2 portions of the stove with the crossbars. (forgoing the top piece) Just curious how this stove would burn that route if you packed it the same. I know you lose a oz by just using the bottom pieces and crossbars. I might have to post a video of me trying it out when my crossbars show up.
@@middleearthchronicles2269 the toaks crossbars are too short. Check out Mark Young's recent video on the lixada tower stove (toaks clone) he shows how you can use the crossbars that come with the alcohol stove to work with the bottom two sections of the stove using wood pellets.
I was thinking about pairing a pocket chainsaw (the version that has alot of teeth and looks more like a traditional saw blade vs the other ones that use a standard chainsaw chain) 170g, and a Notch Pocket Wedge 3.5" 22g abs wedge to cut and split the 3" long logs. I was thinking if I start a baton with my tanto Kershaw pocket knife (just to get the split started) then use the wedge for all the hard work, that the plastic would be ok for soft wood like pine. Have you heard of anyone else using these abs wedges as ultralight splitting wedges? Ive seen videos where people will widdle a piece of hardwood and use that as a wedge, I was just thinking this would forgoe all that effort. I haven't found any videos or any forums even mentioning this idea.
@@johnmoore5293 so a year later and the abs plastic pocket wedge just doesn't have enough strength to handle splitting smaller pieces of hardwood. The tip of the wedge starts getting soft after a few splits. I still carry one with me though. Occasionally I can find some logs that already have a split vertically happening that the wedge can split pretty easily. Motis fire rescue sells aluminum wedges that only weigh 4oz. I may eventually get a pair and try them out.
Why bother with such experimental methods? Both bushcraft and ultralight methods are quite evolved. Just select what suits you best from either repertoire (e.g. a functional batoning gear and technique). In addition, I don't think that the bushcraft approach is exactly compatible with the ultralight approach. I think they serve different purposes. People that want an ultralight setup probably don't want to craft in the bush... But I could be wrong...
Agreed, I much prefer when someone talks and explains what they are doing on the video. I stopped watching as soon as I realized there would be no explination...
Here's a thought: try this comparison again without using a knife, saw, or axe. They call these things "twig burners" for a reason. You have both the lg & sml versions, so many of us would be eager to see to see how they function and compare using foraged twigs. Cheers from Montreal QC.
![ตีสิบเดย์ [FULL] | นางเอกหมอลำเงินล้าน "อุ๋งอิ๋ง เพชรบ้านแพง" & ไฮโซสาวสุดฮอต "ลิลลี่ เหงียน"](http://i.ytimg.com/vi/jPxQS_EgrJ4/mqdefault.jpg)
well done
finally someone on youtube that knows how to load a gasifier stove!!!!
Well done! Thank you for recognizing that these stoves are GASIFIERS! There are so many you tubers that do not actually know what they are talking about in that regard. I have seen multiple you tubers claim that these stoves are not "Wood Gas" stoves. They could've easily looked up the info from the Toaks company's website which states that yes, it is a wood gas stove.
You did a great job in demonstrating the gasification ability of these stoves!
These are really amazing gasifiers indeed- they do get rather hot on the bottom- need to be careful of that- but otherwise, perhaps the best ones out there
I keep seeing the same thing, yet the construction is similar to all the other wood gas stoves. But then all the other videos I see they pile the sticks way over the "fresh hot air ports."
instablaster
your stoves both make a lot of soot. You can cure the soot problem and get the stoves to burn with lower emission with a hotter flame and a longer overall burn time. All you need to do is to block off some of the primary intake holes at the bottom of the burn pot. This is easy to do and it requires no physical changes to your existing stove. Take a used tin can lid and trim it to easily fit into the bottom of the burn pot, one for each stove trim the lids so that you have three equally spaced 3/16" wide legs attached to a solid disk in the centre of the lid, the three legs will keep the solid part of the disk in the centre of the bottom of the pot. Make the solid disk section large enough to cover 1/3 of the bottom area of the pot. This will be a good starting point, Don't make any holes in the centre of the disk as this allows the stove to draft straight up out of your pot taking away heat you need to have a hotter more efficient burn. Give this simple tweak a try and I am sure you will be happy. You can experiment with the area that the disk covers a larger area may increase the length of the overall burn but at some point the stove will start to starve and stall as it is burning down. I hope that this is of interest and of some use and it will solve your soot problem.
This is awesome! Ive only had my mini Toaks for a while and ive been struggling to figure out the best way to load it up, and the vertical method you use is genius! Thank you for sharing and ill definitely be trying it soon 🤘
Well done! I loved the music too.
thanks!
Hey Thanks love the multi uses heating/cooking/repellant/condensation
Excellent demo. 👍
I have a question - why don't you load it before folding it out? Then you wouldn't get so dirty.
You definitely can and I usually do! It actually makes it easier to “stack it” because the cup has some weight to it
Nice demonstration, thanks for sharing.
Let's have another test! 2 pots of water. Boil test please?
Love the music! You could have also posted the video in black & white for more retro silent movie ambience 😁
I am having trouble with my small stove and was hoping you have advice. I have loaded it like you do in the video, however the wood seems to go out once the top 10mm of the wood is burnt black.
I used seasoned dried wood and made the pieces the same size as your video.
I packed it tight enough so the pieces don't rotate when I rotate the stove on its side.
It showed gasification like in your video for about 60 seconds then went out.
Any advice is appreciated.
Great music! :D
It was a little bit a kind of Charlie Chaplin movie. :-)
Hi! Thanks for sharing. We apreciate a lot. Do you think it could be possible to combine both sizes to maybe have a bigger double combustion chamber? probably avoiding using the pot stands and adding some sort of legs to keep the exterior walls deployed/extended...
Just thinking if it could be possible to increase the loading capacity and making it a pure gasifier (from top to bottom).
Do you think it would need some additions also?
Comment/share if you see another possibilities too! New ideas wellcome!
Thanks in advance!
You'd prefer "Comon baby lite my fire"?
Have you tried using just the bottom 2 portions of the stove with the crossbars. (forgoing the top piece) Just curious how this stove would burn that route if you packed it the same. I know you lose a oz by just using the bottom pieces and crossbars. I might have to post a video of me trying it out when my crossbars show up.
@ThomasSeals Did you ever try omitting the top segment and just using the crossbars?
@@middleearthchronicles2269 the toaks crossbars are too short. Check out Mark Young's recent video on the lixada tower stove (toaks clone) he shows how you can use the crossbars that come with the alcohol stove to work with the bottom two sections of the stove using wood pellets.
@@AtomicBleach thanks!
I was thinking about pairing a pocket chainsaw (the version that has alot of teeth and looks more like a traditional saw blade vs the other ones that use a standard chainsaw chain) 170g, and a Notch Pocket Wedge 3.5" 22g abs wedge to cut and split the 3" long logs. I was thinking if I start a baton with my tanto Kershaw pocket knife (just to get the split started) then use the wedge for all the hard work, that the plastic would be ok for soft wood like pine. Have you heard of anyone else using these abs wedges as ultralight splitting wedges? Ive seen videos where people will widdle a piece of hardwood and use that as a wedge, I was just thinking this would forgoe all that effort. I haven't found any videos or any forums even mentioning this idea.
This would also make it easier to have a fire if ground branches were wet.
Like the idea of wedges
@@johnmoore5293 so a year later and the abs plastic pocket wedge just doesn't have enough strength to handle splitting smaller pieces of hardwood. The tip of the wedge starts getting soft after a few splits. I still carry one with me though. Occasionally I can find some logs that already have a split vertically happening that the wedge can split pretty easily. Motis fire rescue sells aluminum wedges that only weigh 4oz. I may eventually get a pair and try them out.
Why bother with such experimental methods? Both bushcraft and ultralight methods are quite evolved. Just select what suits you best from either repertoire (e.g. a functional batoning gear and technique). In addition, I don't think that the bushcraft approach is exactly compatible with the ultralight approach. I think they serve different purposes. People that want an ultralight setup probably don't want to craft in the bush... But I could be wrong...
Didn't show the most important part , starting the fire!
Just some feedback... the music is very offputting and to the point of being super annoying. It doesnt go with what your filming.
I disagree...your comment is off-putting, the music is good
@@highdesertbiker False.
I like off-putting music. I did turn the volume down though...
Agreed, I much prefer when someone talks and explains what they are doing on the video. I stopped watching as soon as I realized there would be no explination...
Music reminds me of a Charlie Brown cartoon
What are the dimensions of the large when its compacted?
Here's a thought: try this comparison again without using a knife, saw, or axe. They call these things "twig burners" for a reason. You have both the lg & sml versions, so many of us would be eager to see to see how they function and compare using foraged twigs. Cheers from Montreal QC.
weird version of that song---might be better to narrate, js
The music is sooo annoying....
I dont think the classical music is appropriate -it down right annoying
I enjoyed the music
Some of the worst piano playing since Les Dawson passed away
The music is too quiet. I hope that you are cranking the volume all the way up to 11 on your other videos.
Should of used your sawdust as tinder fren