DIY Shou-sugi-ban Wood Burning Torching Technique on Pine
ฝัง
- เผยแพร่เมื่อ 6 ก.พ. 2025
- Love Of The Grain Workshop
Here is a simple DIY video of the few steps it takes to create a stunning one of a kind piece of charred wood. Using the Shou-sugi-ban technique. A Japanese technique of charring or burning wood for a water & fire resistant wood surface. Which by the way is absolutely stunning to look at.
Step 1- lightly charred version.
I lightly charred the surface which makes the pine look like zebra skin. A black and white colored striped look. If this is the desired look, move onto the sealing step below.
Step 1-heavily charred version.
If you want the heavily charred deep embossed look. You need to heavily charr the wood. Evenly until the wood crackles or wrinkles up on the surface. The more you charr it, the more embossed the finished product will look.
Step 2-wire brush.
Using a wire bristle brush scrub the charred surface in the direction of the wood grain only! Removing all the crinkled burnt wood and any other loose charr. No need to dig deep with the brush. If you still want it to have a more embossed look. You can then again charr it and then repeat this step of scrubbing it.
Step 3- sanding
Using either an orbital sander or by hand you need to now sand the surface smooth. Use 220 grit sand paper for this. Making sure to get down into the lighter colored crevices that have been created. Try to remove as much of the wire scratches as possible. This should create an ultra smooth finish.
Step 4-sealing
Now you want to make sure it’s thoroughly wipe cleaned and dusted off. Use a tack cloth if you have one to remove everything. The more you clean the dust off. The smoother it will be in the end. In this video I sealed it with a water based Polyurethane. You can use an oil based or even something like danish oil or lacquer.
I hope you enjoyed this video. Thanks for stopping by, liking, commenting and subscribing. Feel free to contact me for a quote on a custom piece of your own. Also check out my
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Thank you for a video with clear and direct instructions. You are my favorite type of instructional video tutor, straight to the point and we don't have to hear some random story before you got to the point. Thank you.
rodrigo oliva thanks very much
Recycling an old work bench, this will be great on the top, thank you an brilliant job 👏
Absolutely! Tag me on Instagram so I can see it when finished!
@@loveofthegrainworkshop2891 will do
Best video I found using this technique. This is quite different from others, much better & to the point . I'm so excited to use your technique w/out feeling overwhelmed!
Susan H. Cooper wow! Thank you so much! Thanks for the comment. If you have any questions along the way feel free to ask. Find me on Instagram or Facebook and message me there. I don’t see these comments very often.
Susan H. Cooper how did your project come out?
الله ينور عليك مجهود رائع حبيت اضيف تعتيق وحفظ جميع الاخشاب فورى وبدون مجهود على الروابط التالية
th-cam.com/video/6FYrirenuoI/w-d-xo.html
والرابط التالى
th-cam.com/video/GL9ZFBAMwes/w-d-xo.html
BEST VIDEO IV FOUND IN 2 WEEKS that simplifies it all,,Thankyou sir!!!
Wow! Thanks so much. Guess that’s why it has a lot of views! I’m not a cinematographer though for sure.
Ever since I learned this technique I use it on almost everything I've made. Fireplace mantle tv stand, my flatbed truck, a kitchen island I've build it's such a fun and good technique and it helps the wood withstand moisture specially the more you char it
Thanks very much it really is versatile.
I've been sand blasting log cabins and wood flooring with fine sand then burning the wood lightly . Faster and a lot less work . I learned this after blasting a log cabin that caught on fire in Oregon about 25 years ago . I didn't know it was a Japanese thing but the cabin sure did turn out real cool and same with floors in my house
@@magapickle01 hi. Does doing it your way still give that deep 3d effect that you get by wire brushing?
@@Phloored probably even better if you use a very fine crushed glass
@@magapickle01 interesting. Thanks for sharing.
Awesome , i stained a bunch of windows for a customer and did cedar trim that i burned and sealed .....looked very awesome. Good work brother
Jason Johnson would love to see them! Shoot me a dm on Instagram or Facebook to Love of the grain workshop
Suggestion for the metal brush ... I bought some cheap small grill brushes (clipped off the metal scraper on the front), you can get a good grip on the head of the brush, and it's a lot wider than that long handled brush. I'm doing long wall planks and it really sped up my work.
Great idea! Also an electric brush called the restorer made by porter cable and craftsman is another alternative.
thank you so much for the video im going make a concrete top night stand for my house and been looking for just this burnt look for the wood part of it
Awesome!
Wow that pine grain pops so well!
Design Craft Workshop yes indeed
Very nice! The embossed effect is really amazing. Thanks for the lesson.
Thanks
Oh this looks gorgeous!
Jo thanks very much. Be sure to check out my latest Shousugiban video!
did a similar method for my fence but considering using a wire drum stripper for the interior house wood
You can absolutely do that. That is what I use now! Check out my latest vids on it.
wow! The end product is one of the best I have seen wih this technique
wiseman fromlife thanks very much
I made a bed frame out of Oregon once. I lightly sand blasted the timber with very fine sand then brushed all the residue off. Then I lightly burnt the raised grain with a blow torch before finishing it with a wax. The feel of the grain was amazing.
The bed was a four poster which were lathed. It was queen sized, everything put together with wooden pins and wedges. It took me months to make.
I lost it in a fire. Heartbreaking.
Man that’s awesome and horrible at once.
Good explanations, and no hard rock music, that's perfect ! Thank you
Thanks
Thank you. I learned a lot from your video.
Thanks
Damn! I just learned something in the first 5 seconds of this video. I do mine a tad different but see now where I can try a different method and get a gorgeous result too! Thanks!
Chris J Peavy wow! Thanks! Glad it could help! Any questions feel free to ask.
Love Of The Grain Workshop sorry about the notices. Fat fingers slipped. Anyway, I have a 6x6x12 raw timber in my shop that I’m about to test drive for an elaborate deck for a client. He wants the deep true shou sugi ban treatment for all of it’s real intentions and benefits obviously. I mean, 70+ years with no sealer other than light oil, who wouldn’t. She wants the “lightly toasted like a marshmallow” just for aesthetics. I took my mapgas and a 2x4 over to get their joint decision. And god help us all. I let myself out you know. But now, since we are doing a covered and uncovered with a rain garden, seeing you do that light side to side to really darken the hard grain and kiss the soft fibers, might pitch a compromise and play on contrasts if they’re still married tomorrow! LOL! Good stuff all the way around man. Love the channel. (Sad thing is, I’m an artist that can build a great deck so all the artsy fartsy stuff has to come out in that most often)
You’ve inspired me to build a patio bench for my girlfriend to sit on thank you for posting this
Warren W lucky girl!
Awesome! Send me some pics! My Instagram is Love_of_the_grain_workshop
How’d it turn out?
Still in the planning stages
@@tuco86x Nothing in the planning stages at all. Consider your comments before making them...my 23yo son committed suicide this past October and it was something that he helped me with.
I love this process of burning the wood, wire brushing and finish. Would look great as floor boards. Wonder how sand blasting the grain section would look then applying a epoxy finish.
Love the look with color!
That would look great!
Eye of the beholder. Try it !
Beautiful job
miguel Becerra thanks
I'm going to use some aged pallet wood, burn the grain a bit and use it as the mounting base for a deer skull. Then wrap it in some barbed wire for a rough look. Just needed to watch someone do this before I attempt. Thanks.
Ben Leaper be careful with pallet wood. It’s treated with nasty toxic chemicals.
@@loveofthegrainworkshop2891 Look for the HT designation stamp on pallet for heat treated. they are okay. google the codes,
In the 70's every bunk bed had this finish along with love seats and sofas with the water mill upholstery pattern...
that's pine
🤣🤣🤣🤣🤣🤣🤣🤣🤣🤣🤣
Haha true
Interesting technique...Many thanks for sharing.
owoh george thanks for watching and commenting!
I love how it turned out! Thank you for doing the video, I’ve wanted to try this and now I will.
Thank you
Thank you for posting
Absolutely
Was thinking about doing and now I'm really thinking.
Do it! Dont hold back. Let me know how it works
Like it lighter than dark the 1st application was perfect
426 SUPER BEE it’s usually a 50/50 split which one people like better.
Thank you... That was a helpful and clear video.
Jay C your welcome. Be sure to check out my latest Shousugiban video
Thanks, will try your suggestions. Will have to use a jointer, not a thicknesses , as roller of latter would damage burnt face.
Bob Frood yep
great job, congratulations for all your videos!
Thanjs
Muchas gracias por estos videos.hermosos
Thanks
Cool! Nice Video!
Thank you
I love this effect. Going to try to do my porch ceilings like this.
Awesome! Thanks for the comment. Any questions along the way feel free to ask.
Not a good idea to try and burn your house! Flames will shoot up between the boards and light any dust that is up there and the next thing you know is you have an attic fire! Try explaining that to the insurance adjuster as he is denying your claim!
Hotrod Hog absolutely not! Which is why i did this outside on my metal table saw.
And I was assuming he was doing it with the ceiling before he installed them.
Well I took it a bit like he or she was getting on a ladder and gonna torch the ceiling! These days we can never assume some folks have common sense Lol. Scary times we live in nowadays :o
Love it 👌 Cant wait to give it ago👍🏻
Thanks. Let me know how it turns out!
Great job, looks awesome. Can’t wait to do this. Thanks for the lesson.
Grey Wolf67 thanks. Your very welcome. Feel free to ask any questions
I love the burnt 🔥 wood look it really makes the grain pop out. I've used it on my wood spirit carvings before and it saves a lot of sanding with it burning 🔥 off the splinters of wood, good tutorial that's why I've subscribed to your channel.
Cheers
Tim from wood 4 nothing
Thank you very much
Just beautiful
Freedom thanks very much
Great video sir!
Thanks
That looks awesome 👍
Tommy Trexler thanks very much. Check out my other shou sugi ban vids. One heavily charred and just posted one with epoxy resin colored over it.
What is the color of that stain, I love it
No stain. Just the burn technique & Minwax Polycrlic clear coat
I'm making a spice rack kind like this, not quite so colorful, I just stained it with some early american minwax. Gave it a reddish look I really like.
Great!
It's a lovely effect and really brings the grain out.
Many thanks
James
Thanks
What type of varnish do you recommend for a bar top that anticipates getting wet and sticky often?? Thank you for the help!
One of two preferably Epoxy resin, 2nd choice would be a two part conversion varnish! I have done many different finishes and for a bartop Epoxy would be the one I’d recommend. A nice flood coat or two. To build up.
Dude. You killed it! Awesome stuff
Peter Dods thanks very much
You can almost see it in this video...how do you counter the cupping this causes? Is burning both sides the only way to counter that loss of moisture or will certain oils help with this?
Patriot4TheTree on this one I didn’t. Cupping happens on larger pieces. Or pieces that are really wide or moist. To prevent it you can burn both sides. Also make sure to wet the surface prior and after burning. Burn fast.
Other than the looks
how is this technique compares to the regular pressured treated lumber from the store? Will it last longer then the green pressured lumber?
Erick Herrera this technique is very old and was around to protect wood prior to treated wood. Not sure which would last longer. That’s a great idea for a project to test!
After you burn and stain the wood Do you have to seal it with something? I'm building a outside bar. Do you have a video of that? Thanks you the man.
No stain needed. But yes seal it with a tongue oil is traditional. But you could use an outdoor varnish as well.
Do you recommend a certain brand? Do you think the Howard oil based wood polish n conditioner would work?
Big props to the orbital sander for drowning out the ubiquitous youtube music.
TheOneEyedWoodsman lol yeah one of my first vids. Was still learning editing.
Can I do this to a table top? And if so do it do the boards separately and then joint them or would I joint the boards first and char it all at once? Just wasn’t sure how the glue in between the boards would hold up
Chris Webb - char separately first.
Chris Webb I would definitely char prior to joining as the heat will loosen the joint and shrink the wood. Have fun be careful.
I agree about the table saw. Looks beautiful though. Seems the grain is raised a bit. How would one fix that for lets say, for a table? I have a few tons of 175 year old "Heart Pine" that is hard as stone that I really want to do some awesome projects with... Any ideas?
I would skip the really heavy burning and just do the first run. I did a video series where I skipped the second burn and most of the sanding. This is for a shelving project, so I couldn't have those crazy variations either. This is a link to first video. m.th-cam.com/video/xeFHnTKBgBI/w-d-xo.html
Jim Sly I would stick with a light burn. If it doesn’t look right then move onto a heavy burn
I just love love love this video.
What sealant did you use? Was it the sealant that gave it that beautiful colour?
The second picture you showed after it was done, is that the same piece of wood? That's such a beautiful colour.
Thank you
Minwax Polycrylic on this one and yes same piece of wood later.
@@loveofthegrainworkshop2891 thank you so much
Thanks for sharing you do nice work on wood etc.
MyREDTAIL thanks
That's awesome. Thanks
Michael Jackson thank you!!! Be sure to check out my latest Shousugiban video
Can you Shou-sugi-ban green pine for lap siding? Or should the freshly milled siding be dried first.?
Almon Jacob you could do it with green wood. But it will have the tendency to warp since it is thin.
I understood that shou-sugi ban helps to make the wood fire resistant. Does sanding take away from the fire resistant properties?
It would to an extent depending on how much you remove. This was purely for decoration though.
Looks great
KHEM Studios thank you
Great great tutorial
Thanks very much!
This is awesome! What brand of water based Polyurethane did you use? I’m not sure which one to go with.
Do
You think I can get this look using Douglas fir green lumber and or Japanese cedar?
Also, rung oil. Which did you use. Do I need both poly and tung?
If I am to make out door pavers , can I use regular wood and make to sheathed proof or do you recommend getring weather treated lumber?
I used Minwax Polycrylic. As far as wood. Douglas fir & japanese cedar work great. But I wouldn’t use any green wood as it’s to wet. It will likely bow, cup, twist or split. It should be kiln dried.
very helpful. thanks!
Thanks
Does the notion of charred wood acts as a barrier to rot have any prevalence. I am thinking about burning the inside of a homemade planter made from decking boards to better protect them from being permanently in contact with wet soil. The wood is pressure treated but i think and extra layer of protection will help.
DMESSER though it would protect the wood longer. Do not burn treated wood. It is illegal and toxic. Either don’t burn. Or use untreated and burn.
Good work
kim so hyun fans thank you
Would a larger weed burner torch work too, or would it be too aggressive?
Yes indeed! I use a garden torch.
Very nice demo., especially for someone like myself trying to learn....Thank you.
Judith Copeland glad it could be of assistance. Feel free to ask any questions along the way.
Been watching a lot of wood burning videos for a project I’m about to make, this helped a lot. Great result! But you tortured your table saw!
Haha. No it was fine I promise. Still in amazing working condition. Check out my latest Shousugiban vid. Lots of new tips.
I like it better the first time all very awesome
time for slime merritt thanks!
Thinking of trying this out on a cornhole set. Is the wood smooth and just appears to have ridges, or is the wood grain proud?
It will definitely have ridges using this technique. Try a light burn and then just a light sand. No scrubbing. That would help reduce it and it should work out.
@@loveofthegrainworkshop2891 Thanks for the info. I'll give it a try.
How do you keep the board from warping if you intend to use it as a top for a box or perhaps a table?
That’s a good but tough question to answer. Being careful when burning. Pick boards that are more from the center Of the tree I would say. Wet before and after burning. If it bows to one side burn the other side to try and bring it back a little. Burning causes the pores and grains to dry out and shrink. So it gets bowed sometimes. Boards for me tend to be hit or miss. Some do some don’t. The amount of heat and speed at which you burn could have an effect as well. Burning it to for to long of a period. Hope this helps.
@@loveofthegrainworkshop2891 It does help. What I wanted was a 1/4" sliding lid with this technique on one side. It's for a box. Recognizing this issue I burned on one side of 1/2" stock and when done burning I ran it through a thickness planer, burnt side down on a sled, and then to a 1/4' finale. It warped but very little. The planer took care of almost completely flattening it. Thanks. Your points are all valid.
@@Mr_Rick awesome! Thanks for the info
What stain did you use? So bright!!!
No stain. Just Minwax Polycrylic.
How did you get the color?
Hey, should one use this technique before or after building the model?
Before. The heat will warp & split any glue joints
That's sad... I am planning to use this technique for a class project, but it will take far too much time. Do you think there's a way around this?🙁
Thanks for showing me this!!! Going to try it!!
Lise Christofferson find me on Facebook or Instagram and feel free to send me pics!
Can you do pressure treated wood? Or bad idea?
I wouldn’t due to the toxic fumes it could release. But really that’s double duty anyway. This protects non treated wood from weather.
Looks great! What torch are you using?
Just a plumbers handheld torch
nice video sir, may i know what coat you use?
Polycrylic minwax.
thank sir
Nice
Thanks
Beautiful!
Thanks
Thank you for the videos. I’m going to try it soon. Do you ever use wood conditioner on the pine or 2x4’s before staining?
No staining at all. Clear coat after burning yes. And no I do not use precondition.
I'm planning to do this for indoor flooring. I like the lighter/zebra look. Should my process be: torch, lightly sand, seal, lightly sand, seal, lightly sand, seal? (I'm assuming I need to seal about 3 times - and that I need to sand in between each coat?) Which sealant do you recommend? I want to keep as much of the natural color as possible (ie I want to avoid darkening or tinting the wood as much as possible). Thank you! Your videos are awesome!
IniquityBliss thanks very much! Yes that’s correct. Sealer for what you want should be what I used in this video a water based poly. Like Polycrylic. It brushes on with a whitish-blue color but dries absolutely clear.
I realy love your video! Thanks!
Marius Leica thank you!
I wanna do this for my garden beds but I thought people use this technique as a substitute for sealant. Why do you do both?
The sealer is added protection. Though it might not necessarily be needed. My wife build a triple stack garden box and I torched the interior and it’s still holding up really well even with being outside and rained on. This example piece in the video is more for a decorative use than a utilitarian use. For interior walls, tables etc.
I wonder if this is safe to do with pressured treated wood for decking. Would it be more flammable from chemicals? Worse, would the burning release the chemicals and I would want to wear a respirator?
Dorothy T NOOO! Toxic when burned. I would not recommend that. I’ve seen people do it. But thats a bad idea. If starting new. You could build the deck out of untreated and burn it. But definitely not treated.
That's beautiful never knew of this technique.
King Hicks thanks. It’s been around for a long time with various surges in popularity throughout time.
@@loveofthegrainworkshop2891 Thank you for introducing those of us who we're opaque! it is definitely something i want to try.
Which wood sealer did you use? Was that 220 grit sand paper or something different? Thanks in advance.
Minwax Polycrylic on this one. And yes 220 grit paper
Great, will use process for desktop I just completed.
Awesome
I want to do burnt wood on my business sign that we are building. So two questions. After burning what is the best thing to use to clear coat it ? Second question if I do a light stain after I burn it do I need to do a clear coat over the stain? I know nothing about wood so have no clue what is the best clear to put on it
If it’s an outdoor sign it has to be an exterior clear coat. Oil based varnish of some kind would be best. Stain is not a sealer so yes if you stain you still have to clear coat afterwards.
Great to the point video. What brand of wood sealer are you using?
Thanks in this one I used Minwax polycrylic
@@loveofthegrainworkshop2891 Gotcha👍
Nice 🙌
Thanks
I love torching my wood projects! What kind of wood is that piece because I really like the amber color that came out after u out the sealer! I assume that’s your basic spar urethane?
Sorry for the delay. That is SYP. And I sealed with minwax polycrylic.
I like the process, what kind of a gas r u using kindly
I use mapgas in a plumbers torch.
So glad I came across this video. I'm about to build a platform bed frame, floating headboard, and a corner style dog Kennel all in this style. I've done some research and came to the conclusion that Linseed Oil is one of the best sealers for animals, do you have any other suggestions? also do you ever work with Linseed? Any pros/cons in your professional opinion? lastly, do you have any videos of Shou-sugi-ban using Linseed Oil as a sealer? thank you so much, love the channel!
DIY Heavily Crackled Shou-Sugi-Ban Charred Cedar Planks Burnt Wood Burning check this one out. I use a linseed or tongue oil mixture.
Very beautiful what kind of sealer you using ?
blackpantera77 on this one Minwax Polycrylic.
Beautiful
Thanks
Ty so much..I love ur work
Thank you!
Do we torch before or after joinery?
Torch prior to joinery as it dries the wood out and shrinks it.
After burning, sanding and sealing with clear Thompson water seal, we are still having black ash coming off. Is there something we can do to stop this? another coating of seal or another type? Penny
HOA Foxdale whats the project your using it for? Interior - exterior - furniture?
@@loveofthegrainworkshop2891 It is a picnic table. used outdoors. We stained the legs and undersides with a solid red stain and the burn technique on table top and benches. It looks great... but worried about the black coming off. My husband washed them down with soap and water and it is better now.
@@loveofthegrainworkshop2891 How much should we sand after the burning?
HOA Foxdale for exterior use you need to seal with minwax pro series spar urethane.
Pro Series Semi-Gloss Water-Based Varnish (1-Gallon) www.lowes.com/pd/Minwax-Pro-Series-Semi-gloss-Water-based-Spar-Urethane-Varnish-Actual-Net-Contents-128-fl-oz/999918596
HOA Foxdale enough that there are no loose pieces left
Can you do this method on a deck with pressure treated lumber?
CDLX0 great question but sadly no! Treated lumber when burned can be toxic. So if anything use untreated and burn it to protect. But I can tell you. This technique isn’t meant to be stepped on. While it protects the wood. It does make the surface softer in area and stepping on it may rub off or damage it.
Love Of The Grain Workshop Darn! Thanks for letting me know. We built a deck about a year or so ago and I seen a deck that was burned and loved the look. But, of course we used PT wood since it was for a deck and I didn’t know of this until now. So I guess we will stain it. Thanks again
CDLX0 no problem sorry it took so long. My household of 8 came down with covid. So I’ve been busy taking care of them all. I was negative but I think I now have it. Yay! Glad to help hope the staining works out well.
Any suggestions on the board I tried this on warped pretty bad. Is there a way to avoid this?
Try to use a board closer to the edge of the tree vs the core. Look at the end grain to determine that. And then burn quickly and immediately wet to cool it off. And then burn the other side as well.
Some warp worse than others. It’s hit or miss.
This is AAAAMMMMMAZZING. Jus what I was after.
My question is I want to do this method to a large pair of gates I'm making. I don't want to burn it to charcoal level, jus to a zebra print design but will it stil preserve my wood if I don't completely burn it? When you rubbed off the loose charcoal and then sanded and sealed it look gorgeous so I could do this but jus more time.
I hope you can advise me
Glad it helped you. As far as the zebra look. It will help seal it somewhat. Basically the poor of the wood will shut when the heat is supplied. You don’t have to really char it to do that. But you could go a little longer and sand lightly.
Love Of The Grain Workshop I haven't got a industrial blow torch so would the small hand one in the beginning of your video do a whole 7ft tall by 4ft wide gate do you think? Thanks in advance
Scott Mclean yes it should do the trick. Those little tanks last longer than you’d think. Use the yellow one. It burns hotter. So it will do the job quicker.
If it was rough timber would you sand it first or just burn it first?
North East Rider totally up to you. It will be smoother if you sand it. But the burn does rake some roughness out. It might leave a little behind
I have been doing this for awhile had no idea it was called SHOU-SUGI-BAN. THANKS FOR THE VIDEO .I SUBCRIBED WELL DONE
MARTIN MATHEE thanks very much
Hi, I'd like to ask if what will happen if you repair the wood first, like you filled up the holes with wood putty or filler then you start burning it, because some woods are not really that smooth right, we
Pol Jimenez wood filler will charr but it does tend to shrink. I have found that when doing a heavy charr it’s easier to fill imperfections afterwards with black caulk. But it doesn’t make much of a difference either before or after.