DataLogging With ( HTS ) ( Honda Tuning Suite )
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- เผยแพร่เมื่อ 22 ก.ย. 2024
- Quick view on data logging with Honda Tuning Suite using a DSD Tech Bluetooth HC-05 module from the amazon! Hope you enjoy the cheap solution to wireless data logging. If using an RTP it can control that on the fly as well...
Bluetooth Serial HC-06 - www.amazon.com...
USB - TTL - www.amazon.com...
ECU chipping kit - www.amazon.com...
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Hell yeah man! I'm just making the switch from Crome Gold to Honda Tuning Suite at the moment. Exciting times
bro I love you. Could not find this answer about setting the ports at 38400 in the device manager. I love you man
great vid very informative
Hello friend,
I made a direct connection with the USB-serial TTL chip PL2303HXA cable.
But in the HTS software I get this message:
"Ecu DIDN'T Replied correct handshake byte!
Replied: 00(expected is: 0xCD)
Make sure your running HTS rom on your ECU.
Datalog - "
I already recorded the HTS basemap in ostrich.
Do you know what it could be?
Hello! How did you make the connection for HC06 to connect with the ECU?! I'm really interested on how to do that! Thanks!!!
Hi have HTS downloaded on my laptop, i have a hc05 already programmed but when i go to settings in HTS to change my com ports its all gray wont let me click, also it’s asking what emulator im using, ostrich moates demon etc, i seriously dont know, all i know its a P75 chipped and previously tuned and yes i have a datalogging port. Just i want to read my parameters and change some things
Any input?
Hey great videos really good detailed content on HTS.im in texas too dfw area🤙🤙i do honda builds/tuning too
Thanks for that! I definitely know that my video creating abilities were lacking back then and you had to stick it out through the videos to learn what you needed to but I tried to cover all the things that were very hard to find within the internet especially with people wanting to gate keep knowledge and sometimes only due to a bad attitude. I found even making a whole different account with a different name and profile picture I could trick the same person being mean to me into providing me the info that I needed through a question. So anytime I ran into a situation where it was really hard to figure something out, and then at the same time run into a bunch of grumpy people not wanting to share the simple answer. Once I learned it I tried to set it up into a video. I just never got to get to the turbo content yet due to life but soon I will get there!
@@hondaland_ I'm in fort Worth area too check out my HTS 2 step videos 👹🔥🔥I'm a noob with editing but I've got content and more to come too just rewatched one of your videos while I was going through a tune on my CRV and I appreciated the knowledge and wanted to say thank you my ninja🤙🤙
@@GoldenEraHondaProduceGarage nice! I like the Odyssey flames
How do you get to the clear page to log and fill cells? Only part I'm lost on. Lol
Right click and choose to clear the map changes or recordings
Hey man, great vid! I have a bit of knowledge on the tuning/engine side of things but nothing when it comes to hardware... I currently have the bluetooth set up for Tunerview only as I don't have an emulator yet so its plugged into the cn 1234 ports. My question is... Is there any way to datalog in HTS without an emulator? (awaiting a flaming in the comments :P )
The purpose of an emulator is to take place of the chip in real time. so with an emulator you can choose to make changes to your tune as you go. Once you get what you want you burn it to a chip and make it solid. An emulator is not required to data log. You cannot datalog with just an emulator. You can run a Data logger or Bluetooth Data logger and use a chip burner or use a Data logger and use an emulator but you always have to have a Data logger as it is a separate thing. 🔥 Sorry for the run on
Also if you bought a hc device the speed of communication needs to be charged from 9600 to 38400 by connecting it to a USB to serial ttl ftdi device
Looking to transition from Hondata to either cobra or chip. If I did chip I could still datalog with a bluetooth datalogger, or the same thing with Cobra emulator. I'd either manually copy my Hondata tables over, or just retune from a base map. Looking for recommendations.
Reason for transitioning is I think I want to stop supporting such an expensive proprietary company that sells (some) bad products without a disclaimer (i.e. CPR kit and provide poor support). Cobra is 1/3 the price, for 95% of the same product.
I personally love my Demon II. Those are discontinued now so you can only find them in the markets now. But they are the closest to hondata without being it. Mainly due to the on board datalogging. A feature some don't want to disconnect from. Most tuners love this feature because it's recording during pulls and they can go back and look when there's an error.
Yes you can log with a wire or wirelessly and just use a chip. Just take the laptop with you on each trip. Did many cars like this with a chip and burner and datalogger.
It's only easier from there getting a emulator that has a logger built in like cobra and the others. That way you can change values while you log.
I'd recommend starting from a base map. If you're used to making changes you will be able to hone in a map in no time with the air fuel table and the suggested changes it offers when setting up a command table.
Just like hondata does
@@hondaland_ Appreciate the response. Yes I'd start with a basemap and tune on the fly. I am going to learn tuning on my stock D16Y7 then apply what I learned to my B16 I built.
@@JohnSmith-uz3zj very nice. Love my b16
Hello friend, thanks for the video, I would like to know if it is possible for me to make a datalog with the oem ECU. That is, with original map.
Only way is with "hondash" and their mobile app. It will show data but I do not think it can record.
How do you get tuner view to read on your current car? Does it need to be connected to a wifi or honda tuning suites
Tunerview only runs via Bluetooth. A Bluetooth module is needed. Hc05 or hc-06 dsdtech off of Amazon. Check the links in the description for the hc06. I also have videos showing how to program the communication speed of the unit to work with the ECU and tuner view depending on your setup
Hi....Nice info.....hey....where did You get your Bluetooth item?
I sell them
How can i get it fast moving mines delayed the Bluetooth datalogging
What is showing it slow
Hi buddy i am from the UK anyway you could find the UK amazon version so many cables and bluetooth HC-06 modules to choose from saying different stuff.. making sure i get the right ones :)
Make sure it is DSD tech and you will be fine.
@@hondaland_ is there any type of adaptor you can use so it will plug into the cn2 port without ribbon cables like some comes have?
@@con6012 people have made tiny 90° boards but only the files are available for you to also diy. No one is selling a pop on kit to allow for no cables
Is there a way to make it change the cells value by the suggested percentage all at once? Instead of having to go in cell by cell?
Yes. Highlight all suggestion cells and then right click and say auto adjust and it will do them all at once
@@hondaland_ I must be missing something because when I right click the only options I get are “increase selection” “decrease selection” and “adjust selection” (and a bunch of other stuff not related to adjusting cells) when I click adjust selection it’s just the normal menu. What am I missing?
@@BamBamMotorsports sorry if I explained it wrong there basically you will have the three tabs that say AF, AF and AF diff. Once you have the table filled with values you can do a Control A to select all the cells or even just drag over the area that you want to auto adjust and then use the tools tab inside of the map window. Not the tools tab that is next to options at the top of Honda Tuning Suite. Then you will see an option that says auto adjust selection and a shortcut that says Control Alt A which sometimes will not want to work but is awesome when it does because then you can do a "control A" to select all and then a "CTRL ALT A" for auto adjust
@@hondaland_ ok awesome thank you! I’ll try that when I get home. Hoping to use this to dial in my part throttle stuff lol
@@BamBamMotorsports are you using a wideband?
Hey bro, What should I get to have bluetooth with an hulog?
Bluetooth is wireless datalogger. Hulogs wired. I have a Bluetooth video how to make that work
Hows the wideband connected up? Mines in d14 an is picked up by hts but the readings all wrong, aem uego
When readings are off you will need to use the offset in settings. Say its off by 1.5 afr and showing to lean you type 1.5 if its to rich you enter -1.5
@@hondaland_ brilliant ill give it a go later on, any specific settings id need to change? When i select the aem gauge it give a graph of 0.5 volts onwards will i need to change that or leave it as is?
Find the one that matches the uego or type them out. Aem come with a paper showing the scaling of the sensor. If lost they are available online
So i managed to hook it up via d14 an it gets a reading which ive have set the offset but the software wont go above 12.47 afr for some reason even thought the actual gauge does
@@alexholmes9521 d14 o2 circuit un modified can only sense up to 3.85 volts and ignores past that. Usually this is in the 16 to 17 afr area and no needed for logs anyway once you have tuned out of the lean hole in the map. Your offset is so bad that your limited by the ecu only reading up to a certain point. You can modify d14 to read 5v or swap to d10 that is used for ELD. How is the wideband wired. It seems to have a terrible amount of noise if your only able to read to 12 and cant read higher. 12 is on the rich side
I cant data log in my ecu comp 4 dont work any idea
Facebook or Instagram and DM me
You getting a wideband soon?
I have had one for about 2 and a half weeks now. It's great!
Bro I'm been trying to get Datta log with hulog and I can get it to work how do you do that ?
Make sure the ECU is reading the ROM from the chip socket. Aka solid no check engine light. AKA can rev past 4,000 RPM limp mode. You then have to make sure your comports in the device manager are set to 38400. There is a comport helper tool built into Honda tuning suite to help you learn which comport you need to adjust. If you are only using a chip you can try the PGMFi.org option as your device and settings of HTS. If you are using an emulator like an ostrich you will need to choose ostrich. It is usually just that simple but can take some restarts of the app and the computer as Windows 10 does not like to cooperate with com ports sometimes.
Feel free to find me on my social media outlets listed in the description below to message me directly for more assistance
T
Yeah rpm goes only to 4000
@@AdinSLaboy ECU is in limp home mode. Most likely due to the chipping job or the chip / emulator not having a tune. The ECU kicks into limp mode when it has no rpm input or it is told to read it's tune for the chip and it does not pass so it defaults to limp mode. Check chipping job and if there is indeed hts on the chip/emulator. Alot of people over heat the ic latching chip upon install.
qcwo.com/technicaldomain/troubleshooting-a-honda-p28-installation/
Use this guide to check the chip job. If all traces have continuity it's usually within the latching chip
i cant find any of your pages
What do you mean by pages?
For some reason my bluetooth connection is very slow. I can only get like 2-3 updates every second. Anyone got an idea why that might be? Appreciate the help in advance.
What are you reading your bluetooth with? Laptop? Phone?
@@hondaland_ used both, same data gathering speed.
@@lamella64
Where did you buy the bluetooth?
Is j12 removed from the ecu?
@@hondaland_ the HC-05 is from ebay and it has been acting pretty weird, to be honest. for one thing, I couldn't use HTS to configure it at all as it wouldn't recognise that it's in AT mode, and even in DSD tech tools when trying to set the baud rate, it only seemed to respond correctly to direct commands. Also, the default baud was 38400 but that's actually normal from what i've read on the internet. Other than that it works just like it should, only it gets timed out even if i set the timeout limits to 3000 ms.
I've found AT commands to set and verify scan parameters but i haven't had the opportunity to test that yet. I'll let you know if i learn anything useful in that regard.
I'll have to see the ECU again to answer the last one. The car isn't mine so i'll need a day. I'll also have to check what j12 does too, we're pretty new to this stuff and we bought the ECU allready socketed but it seemed to work fine with the Hulog.
@@lamella64 it sounds like a cheap unit. I would buy a dsd tech unit
Yea still can’t get this to work
In which way?
What bluetooth connector is that?
DSD tech HC-05
Awesome! Where did you purchase it through?
@@jordanwilson5332 Amazon. It's a diy solution. It doesn't come ready to go. I sell them ready to go
@@hondaland_ I need one
@@_dirtyfab5337 find me on instagram or facebook and i can send one out to ya. Just search honda land.
Can you help me out bro? I uploaded my basemap to the ostrich emulator, I set my injectors to what I have in my car..but car will not start.. the check engine light will go on when I step on the gas pedal.. and goes off when I dont.. I tried to calibrate the tps but it says ecu not connected.. but I swear I am connected since I click the emulator button and press connect and it shows some stuff on the left hand side in a drop down list..
HTS has a built in way of retrieving codes via the gas pedal before the car is running. After 50% it will be solid if you do not have any codes. If you have codes it will blink them in series. It does sound as if the ECU is reading the ROM file the ostrich is providing. As far as the car not starting explain a little more. Is the motor spinning but not fireing? Or do you get nothing at the key. Tps is set via datalogging combined with emulation. So something like a hulog or Bluetooth Datalogger is needed to read the volts when at 0% and at 100% do you have a datalogging device?
@@hondaland_ yes I have a extreme hue logger. And I did not have any codes well when the gas pedal situation happened, the check engine light was on and didn't go away when the key was at the on position.. but that did go away once I turned on the emulator, but the car still does not start. It cranks but does not start, almost like the ecu fuse is not there, just sit there and cranks but doesn't fully start.. and I am not able to calibrate my tps when on the tps menu screen, it just says ecu not connected, and gives me the option to check the box for setting a custom tps value..
@@righty-tightybuilt548 in order for it to show "connected" the hulog has to be connected correctly. As well as the ECU running the tune. If you have a solid check engine light you may have an issue with your main relay. You can check injectors with a volt meter and spark at the plugs. Main relay powers the injectors, ecu, fuel pump, and a few sensors.
@@hondaland_ i got the data log to connect and the check engine light doesn't come on when I press the gas pedal anymore, but it still doesn't start.. just cranks.. I'm wondering if my injectors are even working.. hmm. I'm stumped
@@righty-tightybuilt548 sounds like you may need to cut j1 to revert back to stock and see if it fires