Thank you very much for your set of plans. What a bundle! 65 pages! It is very generous from you! I'm planning to build a shedlike-tiny-shop insulated against winter nasty cold weather. Your bench will inspire me and help me in my own design! Best Regards from Québec!
Thank you so much for the Plans. I have purchased a couple, but came back to your system. Will make a small change and add 12" to make it a little wider to help with cutting 48" material by myself Thanks Again
Hi Jordan, just round your channel and am truly impressed with this workbench and your videos. You have a great ability to explain things and live the humor. Keep the videos coming and thank you for all your time and expertise!
This looks well thought out. I have found that leaving a 1/4" gap at the end of the bottom sliding door track is helpful to let crud out that falls in.
Hey Jordan, every time I watch this video, I wonder: what ARE the advantages of extending the fence track past the router bit? Is it for use as a general straightedge, ignoring the router entirely? Thanks for the project videos, the workbench rules!
I did kind of make a bold statement there didn't I? Yes, you're absolutely correct, a straightedge is one, also being able to go at least as far as the circumference of the largest bit you might use is important. So like if you have a really big rabbeting bit for example, you want to be able to get your fence just past the farthest edge of it so you could do a super minimal cut. Having said that I haven't had a single problem with where I put mine and never changed it. :) So it's kind of a minor point I guess, it's just better to have options?
I'm trying JayHadd, I'm trying. Things have been so crazy lately what with the world coming to an end that it's been hard to find the time. I appreciate the support though!
Thanks! That sled is an old Stumpy Nubs design, I've been using it a long time. It's really good but has a few things I want to tweak, so I might be doing that in the future, and will definitely do a video if I do
I like the videos and the ideas for the build. One suggestion, in lieu of extending the T-track for the router, just have a sacrificial fence attached. This helps reduce any tear out, and allows for a zero clearance fit for your router bit. I think it would help with your dust collection as well.
A little foam tape around the door will help to minimize the air loss when your dust collector is being used for your router. Would love to post a pic of the dust system I built using a shop vac and an old 15 gal. oil drum. Homemade wood lid with foam tape to make a seal, works very well.
That's an excellent suggestion. I am looking to upgrade my dust collection system. Still 4", but I am really disappointed in the amount of actual suction I'm pulling once I added on a cyclone, but the cyclone makes it way easier to empty and holds the dust better than my bag does. I don't know, it's on my list but not at the top.
This is genuinely helpful. I will build this, and it will make my life better. Thanks. One question...Why bother making your own sliding door tracks? They look good but it seems like between the pain of making them, waxing them, and keeping them waxed, you'd be better off just grabbing some cheap plastic option. What am I missing?
I just subscribed. Great humor during your builds. Love that table saw / router table / etc... Apprentice 1, 2, 3 make them learn some skills, raise them strong and handy. Take Care.
No worries Ryan. I don't know if you caught this but in the free plans I listed all the hardware with hyperlinks, so if you click on them it should take you to the right items. I believe for the router fence I'm using standard 1/4" t-slot bolts. 1.5" length are ideal, but you could get away with 1" or longer
What kind of router do you have there? You mentioned having a spare power cord but most corded routers i have seen have a permanently attached power cord.
Hi Michael, it's just a DeWalt DW618. The powercord twists off and locks in for storage and so you can replace it in case your cord gets chewed by beginner's luck. It's a pretty standard router, I assume competing brands also have models with detachable cords?
One revision you might make in the plans: where the cords come into the box to the switch, put a full side on top to bottom, keeping it open on the bottom. That will keep the cords separate and eliminate one step.
That's a good suggestion. If you did that you'd have to cable-tie all the excess so it doesn't all drop down like spaghetti, but that could work for sure, and like you said it eliminates a step. Thanks!
Great question! Dust inside is not an issue - it gets vacuumed up real well for the most part. Every couple of months I pop out the lift (and the router) and give them a little brushing off, but no issues there. I can't say for sure about the heat; I've never noticed any issues, but my router has been acting a little crazy lately and I don't know yet if it's because I'm running it when it's cold out (below 40º F) or if there's some other issue. Need to figure that one out.
Wow, Jordan... i've been watching video after video in search for the PERFECT compact workshop table that combines, functionality, space saver, multi tool use, etc... I mean, this looks friggin amazing. I'm super pumped to attempt this build but also, pretty intimidated too. Honestly, I'd say my workworking skills are pretty solid. lots of board and batten around my house, bead board install in bathrooms, familiar with miter cuts, crown molding, mantle builds, etc... Is this something an average to above avg DIYer weekend warrior could tackle? Be honest and how long in total did it take to make this beast. So awesome!!
Well Jerome, flattery will get you everywhere, and I'm over here blushing like a school girl. I think you will have no problems building this. I'm not saying there won't be a few Challenges, but based on your experience level you should be completely fine. Things that might throw you for a minute are all the little things that maybe you haven't done before (like using rivets if you choose to do that part, or routing your work surface, etc). Honestly those things are all easy enough and this is a good way to experience doing them - a lot were first times for me as well. You might not have all the same tools I do, but there are multiple ways to do most of what I did. So if you start and have specific questions please feel free to ask away. Good luck, you've got this!
@@withJordanFrank Literally made my day Jordan. I don't mind the challenges and to be honest, i may modify the router table into where i'd house my miter saw but still love the concept of you back shelf so i'd keep that no doubt. Not sure just yet but i've printed out the plans and will get to work on this once the weather here in Chicago breaks. Again, i just love this work bench. It is so awesome and packed with features that... just make sense! Thanks again and if i do need to reach out, i know where to find you. All the best Jordan.
Glad to see this is taking off for you! Enjoying the design and possibilities! What if you used French cleat instead of the adjustable shelf brackets. Just drop your tools on and go?
Thanks Brandon! Do you mean for the utility shelf? That's an interesting idea. That would certainly be easier to do, so that's a plus. I guess the only negative is that the shelf wouldn't store on the bench, but.... Oh. I guess you wouldn't need the shelf, as the shelves would be specific for the tools. Hmmmmmmmmmm. You might be on to something!
Suggestion, I think mounting the power strip pointing down would be better. It would allow you more space behind the mitre shelf, the plugs would point down instead of out making it less likely for them to get hit and the prongs getting bent.
A couple people have suggested this, and I think it's a good idea. My argument is that that would work better for the table saw and router (permanently plugged in), but you might have the opposite problem where everything else you plug in while working will now be either crimped or kind of hard to get to to plug in because of the miter shelf. I don't know. I guess there's not a clear winner either way.
I'm looking to build something similar and I was wondering if you are still happy with the Incra router lift you installed in this video? Any comments after using it the past 10 months?
Another question, from an electrical stand point would it have not been better to mount a single receptacle and use a switch mounted to a box? I may be over thinking it but just seems it would make a little cleaner install. I have purchased 2 switches for my saws from Amazon that fairly inexpensive. I have seen the one your using and if I remember correctly it was a little pricey. I could send a picture if you like of the install I did. just less plugs laying around over all. Just a suggestion.
Jordan... once again.. awesome design... im at the router/t track spot and I have t track from an old cnc table I can use. However the link to the 1" track you used for the miter fence is not working right... Is there any obvious difference in using more 3/4"inch track vs the 1"? AKA will I regret it? EDIT : Scratch that... this is like the 9th part Ive ordered that I forgot I ordered that just showed up...
lolllll, been there done that. So hopefully that means you have the 1" now. The reason for "miter track" vs "t track" is that most miter gauges are sized to fit a 1" track/slot. Some might be smaller for a t track I think? But most are for 1". Same as on your table saw.
Jordan.. great videos first off... So I am putting together this workbench.. I noticed (maybe im missing it) that you didnt account for the router fence in the materials? Is this a 3rd party fence we need to procure somewhere? I am building this from scratch, so I dont have an existing fence. Thank you
Thanks Ryan, so glad you're going to tackle this beast. The bench plans DO include materials for a router fence, even though the video does not. I went back after I built my Octopus and decided I should mock something up for the plans, so fair warning, I have not Built that fence myself, but on paper (or SketchUp as the case may be), it seems like a fairly straightforward no frills design. Let me know how it turns out!
@@withJordanFrank You are the king of CYA haha... love it... I am sourcing wood today. Most of the parts etc are on their way. Hope it works out :) thanks again.
Excellent question, and no, not at all. You could very easily add a permanent fence to that shelf. The reason I didn't was I literally had inches to spare between the wall and where our car would come in to park, so I tried to keep it as svelte as possible. If I could have had a deeper bench I would have, for sure; I would love more workspace on either side of the table saw, and I would love a fence for the miter saw shelf. But that was my limitation, and adding a fence would be adding however many inches on to the overall depth. If that's not your limitation then I would do it for sure.
Please, say it isn't so! Is the accent color hot pink! I'm going to give you the benefit of the doubt and say that you used hot pink for your young assistant?!! LOL, loving this build and I am hoping that your cross-cut sled for the Dewalt Contractor saw is in one of your other videos. I have the same saw and want any ideas I can steal.
Great video and thank you for sharing. This is what i want too, great versatile ideas. But please use a pushstick or so next time you cut on the tablesaw like at 10:30 😰😱
Thank you!! Yeah, I know, I get lazy, and one of these days I'm going to pay for it. I really want a SawStop for that very reason, but it's currently not in the budge
@@withJordanFrank I was just about to comment this. i lost the top of my thumb doing something similar to this 11 months ago, ironically building a workbench for the exact same saw. i dont recommend it. stay safe! awesome plans and I really like your videos. keep em coming. but seriously don't put stuff like this on youtube or idiots like me will think its ok. :half a thumbs up emoji: :D
wonder if now you have been using it awhile, do you find that saw dust gets in the sliding door tracks and make it harder to use or has it been okay because of all your dust collection? PS thank you so much for making these. i have a really small space and have been watching a lot of bench and shop tours to get ideas
Fantastic question my friend. No, actually that hasn’t been an issue. Someone suggested leaving a 1/8 or 1/4” space at both ends of the tracks so that dust gets pushed out and that makes total sense to me, but like I said I haven’t had that issue. I would do that though just in case. Good luck with your build, hopefully the plans are helpful.
Not really. Everything in my shop seems to be covered in debris, but nothing noticeable in the tracks other than fine layers of dust. I have to say the dust collection does manage to keep chips out from the inside of the cabinet, the slider tracks, and even the bottom bin on the table saw side. My miter saw shelf is typically covered in chips, but miter saws are hard to wrangle dust collection on and this design just isn't really made for that unfortunately
I might be wrong about this, but I believe a router fence stays square around the bit. So like the two sides of it are square with each other, the bit is in the middle, so if the fence isn't lined up exactly square with the bench it doesn't matter, it's still square. Does that make sense?
@@withJordanFrank that is how I look at it but I see so much about tables and the fences being perfectly square. They use that as a selling point, but it doesn’t really make sense to me.
Hello Jordan, I am also working out of my garage and everything is really spread out. I have 2 questions that I haven't seen covered in the videos. 1. When you use your magic tent do you have a way of exhausting the fog and fumes? Also what type of lighting are you using inside the tent? 2. I have a sliding compound mitre saw, will that work in the same space your showing for your mitre saw?
Just for the sake of your hand, I would never run my hand directly over a blade or bit while pushing material through. I've seen some pretty crazy stuff I would have never expected in the shop in just 7 years. Get a pusher or use the one you may have.
@@withJordanFrank I've literally seen 1/2" tabletop router bits blow through the top of plywood like a rocket ship! Luckily my buddy had his hand behind the bit when that happened. Accidents do happen for sure.
Thanks Lucky!! Yeah, I'm really happy with the Incra lift. The only thing that gives me pause is like the month after I bought it companies started introducing lifts with a second adjustment dial that lets you move it up and down really fast, then you change to the normal one to dial it in. That seems like a great idea, but I haven't actually tried one. I think Rockler put one out first, but I think there are others. But mine is really well built and I haven't had any issues with it. I can say without a doubt that a lift is better than not a lift, that much I am confident about. :)
Good point Edward. I tend to cut metal with a grinder/cutter, but I know not everyone has one so I used a hacksaw. I don't know about my miter saw, I don't trust it and I need a new one. One day.
Thank you very much for your set of plans.
What a bundle! 65 pages! It is very generous from you!
I'm planning to build a shedlike-tiny-shop insulated against winter nasty cold weather.
Your bench will inspire me and help me in my own design!
Best Regards from Québec!
Thank you so much for the Plans. I have purchased a couple, but came back to your system. Will make a small change and add 12" to make it a little wider to help with cutting 48" material by myself
Thanks Again
That's awesome Chip, thank you. Good luck with the build!!
Great job.
Thanks Paul!
Hi Jordan, just round your channel and am truly impressed with this workbench and your videos. You have a great ability to explain things and live the humor. Keep the videos coming and thank you for all your time and expertise!
Thank you Joseph, that means a lot to me!
this table is amazing. Im downloading the instructions for sure. and yeah mdf is freaking nasty
Thanks Keefer, I hope your table build is an exciting and wild ride that ultimately yields a good bench. :)
@@withJordanFrank Me too! Unfortunately I, like many, rushed my first bench and its barely what I'd consider decent. This will be much better!
This looks well thought out. I have found that leaving a 1/4" gap at the end of the bottom sliding door track is helpful to let crud out that falls in.
Hey Jordan, every time I watch this video, I wonder: what ARE the advantages of extending the fence track past the router bit? Is it for use as a general straightedge, ignoring the router entirely? Thanks for the project videos, the workbench rules!
I did kind of make a bold statement there didn't I? Yes, you're absolutely correct, a straightedge is one, also being able to go at least as far as the circumference of the largest bit you might use is important. So like if you have a really big rabbeting bit for example, you want to be able to get your fence just past the farthest edge of it so you could do a super minimal cut. Having said that I haven't had a single problem with where I put mine and never changed it. :) So it's kind of a minor point I guess, it's just better to have options?
Will you make more videos? This build made me a subscriber. Humor, woodworking, and inspiration 👍🏾 keep it up!
I'm trying JayHadd, I'm trying. Things have been so crazy lately what with the world coming to an end that it's been hard to find the time. I appreciate the support though!
thank you for this, can you make one for your saw sled? I like it, simple and effective
Thanks! That sled is an old Stumpy Nubs design, I've been using it a long time. It's really good but has a few things I want to tweak, so I might be doing that in the future, and will definitely do a video if I do
I agree with the guy below me good personality good job
Thank you Steven!
I like the videos and the ideas for the build. One suggestion, in lieu of extending the T-track for the router, just have a sacrificial fence attached. This helps reduce any tear out, and allows for a zero clearance fit for your router bit. I think it would help with your dust collection as well.
That is an excellent suggestion. Sacrificial fences are real handy. I try to keep some MDF around for just such a purpose.
Fantastic videos. This was a lot of work to put together and love the plans. Thanks so much for sharing!!!
Truly glad you are checking them out. Thank you!
Real amazing 😍😍😍👍👍🤝🇲🇨
Thanks!
A little foam tape around the door will help to minimize the air loss when your dust collector is being used for your router. Would love to post a pic of the dust system I built using a shop vac and an old 15 gal. oil drum. Homemade wood lid with foam tape to make a seal, works very well.
That's an excellent suggestion. I am looking to upgrade my dust collection system. Still 4", but I am really disappointed in the amount of actual suction I'm pulling once I added on a cyclone, but the cyclone makes it way easier to empty and holds the dust better than my bag does. I don't know, it's on my list but not at the top.
This is genuinely helpful. I will build this, and it will make my life better. Thanks. One question...Why bother making your own sliding door tracks? They look good but it seems like between the pain of making them, waxing them, and keeping them waxed, you'd be better off just grabbing some cheap plastic option. What am I missing?
I just subscribed. Great humor during your builds. Love that table saw / router table / etc...
Apprentice 1, 2, 3 make them learn some skills, raise them strong and handy. Take Care.
Workin' on it Jerry, thank you
You could slide the t-track past the router bit. Not having t-track all the way to edge of bench isn't necessary
I see your new to TH-cam, but you have a good personality and nice editing. Your going to go far 👍
You're.... sorry. Pet peeve haha
@@ethanswoodworking3989 eat me.
Sorry for all the questions... mind sharing the bolt you are using for the T track? want to make sure I get the right ones.. thanks
No worries Ryan. I don't know if you caught this but in the free plans I listed all the hardware with hyperlinks, so if you click on them it should take you to the right items. I believe for the router fence I'm using standard 1/4" t-slot bolts. 1.5" length are ideal, but you could get away with 1" or longer
What kind of router do you have there? You mentioned having a spare power cord but most corded routers i have seen have a permanently attached power cord.
Hi Michael, it's just a DeWalt DW618. The powercord twists off and locks in for storage and so you can replace it in case your cord gets chewed by beginner's luck. It's a pretty standard router, I assume competing brands also have models with detachable cords?
@@withJordanFrank Thanks for the response.
One revision you might make in the plans: where the cords come into the box to the switch, put a full side on top to bottom, keeping it open on the bottom. That will keep the cords separate and eliminate one step.
That's a good suggestion. If you did that you'd have to cable-tie all the excess so it doesn't all drop down like spaghetti, but that could work for sure, and like you said it eliminates a step. Thanks!
nicely done buddy.
Thank you kindly EVPVC
I'm interesting how about router motor heating and dusts inside?
Great question! Dust inside is not an issue - it gets vacuumed up real well for the most part. Every couple of months I pop out the lift (and the router) and give them a little brushing off, but no issues there. I can't say for sure about the heat; I've never noticed any issues, but my router has been acting a little crazy lately and I don't know yet if it's because I'm running it when it's cold out (below 40º F) or if there's some other issue. Need to figure that one out.
Wow, Jordan... i've been watching video after video in search for the PERFECT compact workshop table that combines, functionality, space saver, multi tool use, etc... I mean, this looks friggin amazing. I'm super pumped to attempt this build but also, pretty intimidated too. Honestly, I'd say my workworking skills are pretty solid. lots of board and batten around my house, bead board install in bathrooms, familiar with miter cuts, crown molding, mantle builds, etc... Is this something an average to above avg DIYer weekend warrior could tackle? Be honest and how long in total did it take to make this beast. So awesome!!
Well Jerome, flattery will get you everywhere, and I'm over here blushing like a school girl. I think you will have no problems building this. I'm not saying there won't be a few Challenges, but based on your experience level you should be completely fine. Things that might throw you for a minute are all the little things that maybe you haven't done before (like using rivets if you choose to do that part, or routing your work surface, etc). Honestly those things are all easy enough and this is a good way to experience doing them - a lot were first times for me as well. You might not have all the same tools I do, but there are multiple ways to do most of what I did. So if you start and have specific questions please feel free to ask away. Good luck, you've got this!
@@withJordanFrank Literally made my day Jordan. I don't mind the challenges and to be honest, i may modify the router table into where i'd house my miter saw but still love the concept of you back shelf so i'd keep that no doubt. Not sure just yet but i've printed out the plans and will get to work on this once the weather here in Chicago breaks. Again, i just love this work bench. It is so awesome and packed with features that... just make sense! Thanks again and if i do need to reach out, i know where to find you. All the best Jordan.
Glad to see this is taking off for you! Enjoying the design and possibilities! What if you used French cleat instead of the adjustable shelf brackets. Just drop your tools on and go?
Thanks Brandon! Do you mean for the utility shelf? That's an interesting idea. That would certainly be easier to do, so that's a plus. I guess the only negative is that the shelf wouldn't store on the bench, but.... Oh. I guess you wouldn't need the shelf, as the shelves would be specific for the tools. Hmmmmmmmmmm. You might be on to something!
Suggestion, I think mounting the power strip pointing down would be better. It would allow you more space behind the mitre shelf, the plugs would point down instead of out making it less likely for them to get hit and the prongs getting bent.
A couple people have suggested this, and I think it's a good idea. My argument is that that would work better for the table saw and router (permanently plugged in), but you might have the opposite problem where everything else you plug in while working will now be either crimped or kind of hard to get to to plug in because of the miter shelf. I don't know. I guess there's not a clear winner either way.
I'm looking to build something similar and I was wondering if you are still happy with the Incra router lift you installed in this video? Any comments after using it the past 10 months?
And, ummm, I see Lucky C asked the same question , I'll just go read that reply, thanks!
Lollllll, no problem, it’s generally best to not read comments on the internet so I don’t blame you. But yes, totally happy with it.
Another question, from an electrical stand point would it have not been better to mount a single receptacle and use a switch mounted to a box? I may be over thinking it but just seems it would make a little cleaner install. I have purchased 2 switches for my saws from Amazon that fairly inexpensive. I have seen the one your using and if I remember correctly it was a little pricey. I could send a picture if you like of the install I did. just less plugs laying around over all. Just a suggestion.
Hmm, I think I know what you mean, but can you send me the photo? I'd love to see it. jordanfrank03@gmail.com
Jordan... once again.. awesome design... im at the router/t track spot and I have t track from an old cnc table I can use. However the link to the 1" track you used for the miter fence is not working right... Is there any obvious difference in using more 3/4"inch track vs the 1"? AKA will I regret it?
EDIT : Scratch that... this is like the 9th part Ive ordered that I forgot I ordered that just showed up...
lolllll, been there done that. So hopefully that means you have the 1" now. The reason for "miter track" vs "t track" is that most miter gauges are sized to fit a 1" track/slot. Some might be smaller for a t track I think? But most are for 1". Same as on your table saw.
Jordan.. great videos first off... So I am putting together this workbench.. I noticed (maybe im missing it) that you didnt account for the router fence in the materials? Is this a 3rd party fence we need to procure somewhere? I am building this from scratch, so I dont have an existing fence. Thank you
Thanks Ryan, so glad you're going to tackle this beast. The bench plans DO include materials for a router fence, even though the video does not. I went back after I built my Octopus and decided I should mock something up for the plans, so fair warning, I have not Built that fence myself, but on paper (or SketchUp as the case may be), it seems like a fairly straightforward no frills design. Let me know how it turns out!
@@withJordanFrank You are the king of CYA haha... love it... I am sourcing wood today. Most of the parts etc are on their way. Hope it works out :) thanks again.
Think it’d be very difficult to put up a fence for the miter saw portion?
Excellent question, and no, not at all. You could very easily add a permanent fence to that shelf. The reason I didn't was I literally had inches to spare between the wall and where our car would come in to park, so I tried to keep it as svelte as possible. If I could have had a deeper bench I would have, for sure; I would love more workspace on either side of the table saw, and I would love a fence for the miter saw shelf. But that was my limitation, and adding a fence would be adding however many inches on to the overall depth. If that's not your limitation then I would do it for sure.
Please, say it isn't so! Is the accent color hot pink! I'm going to give you the benefit of the doubt and say that you used hot pink for your young assistant?!! LOL, loving this build and I am hoping that your cross-cut sled for the Dewalt Contractor saw is in one of your other videos. I have the same saw and want any ideas I can steal.
Great video and thank you for sharing. This is what i want too, great versatile ideas. But please use a pushstick or so next time you cut on the tablesaw like at 10:30 😰😱
Thank you!! Yeah, I know, I get lazy, and one of these days I'm going to pay for it. I really want a SawStop for that very reason, but it's currently not in the budge
@@withJordanFrank I was just about to comment this. i lost the top of my thumb doing something similar to this 11 months ago, ironically building a workbench for the exact same saw. i dont recommend it. stay safe! awesome plans and I really like your videos. keep em coming. but seriously don't put stuff like this on youtube or idiots like me will think its ok. :half a thumbs up emoji: :D
Love the videos
wonder if now you have been using it awhile, do you find that saw dust gets in the sliding door tracks and make it harder to use or has it been okay because of all your dust collection? PS thank you so much for making these. i have a really small space and have been watching a lot of bench and shop tours to get ideas
Fantastic question my friend. No, actually that hasn’t been an issue. Someone suggested leaving a 1/8 or 1/4” space at both ends of the tracks so that dust gets pushed out and that makes total sense to me, but like I said I haven’t had that issue. I would do that though just in case. Good luck with your build, hopefully the plans are helpful.
"Dix bits" lol. Great build, though.
@@withJordanFrank Sure, you did.
do your slider tracks collect debris from construction?
Not really. Everything in my shop seems to be covered in debris, but nothing noticeable in the tracks other than fine layers of dust. I have to say the dust collection does manage to keep chips out from the inside of the cabinet, the slider tracks, and even the bottom bin on the table saw side. My miter saw shelf is typically covered in chips, but miter saws are hard to wrangle dust collection on and this design just isn't really made for that unfortunately
Hi Jordan, where did you get that paddle switch with the already installed plug?
How do you keep the router fence square?
I might be wrong about this, but I believe a router fence stays square around the bit. So like the two sides of it are square with each other, the bit is in the middle, so if the fence isn't lined up exactly square with the bench it doesn't matter, it's still square. Does that make sense?
@@withJordanFrank that is how I look at it but I see so much about tables and the fences being perfectly square. They use that as a selling point, but it doesn’t really make sense to me.
Great start man. Keep them coming. What is your dust collector setup?
what router are you using for your lift?
A good ol' Dewalt DW618. Pretty standard, nothing fancy.
Hello Jordan, I am also working out of my garage and everything is really spread out. I have 2 questions that I haven't seen covered in the videos.
1. When you use your magic tent do you have a way of exhausting the fog and fumes? Also what type of lighting are you using inside the tent?
2. I have a sliding compound mitre saw, will that work in the same space your showing for your mitre saw?
Just for the sake of your hand, I would never run my hand directly over a blade or bit while pushing material through. I've seen some pretty crazy stuff I would have never expected in the shop in just 7 years. Get a pusher or use the one you may have.
Good advice my friend, thank you
@@withJordanFrank I've literally seen 1/2" tabletop router bits blow through the top of plywood like a rocket ship! Luckily my buddy had his hand behind the bit when that happened. Accidents do happen for sure.
I didn’t see a final picture .. am I missing something?
I think so? Final picture of what?
Good day, thank you for the videos.. inspired!
Curious of the router lift you decided on and are you happy with it.
Thanks again:)
Thanks Lucky!! Yeah, I'm really happy with the Incra lift. The only thing that gives me pause is like the month after I bought it companies started introducing lifts with a second adjustment dial that lets you move it up and down really fast, then you change to the normal one to dial it in. That seems like a great idea, but I haven't actually tried one. I think Rockler put one out first, but I think there are others. But mine is really well built and I haven't had any issues with it. I can say without a doubt that a lift is better than not a lift, that much I am confident about. :)
Which router lift is that? I can't find it in the build plans.
That my friend is an Incra Mast-R-Lift-II, bought off Rockler for about $300
Great video's, subbed 1
you need to use respirayor alot more
You're not lying. I do more when I'm not on camera, but I should make a point of saying that. Thanks
@@withJordanFrank you can get a more cormftable one for on cam from my experience even a circular saw is enough to be dangerous dustwise 😏
4parts!? You gonna be fk kidding me
We're very thorough over here
You should be able to cut your t track with your miter saw if you have carbide teeth on your blade
Good point Edward. I tend to cut metal with a grinder/cutter, but I know not everyone has one so I used a hacksaw. I don't know about my miter saw, I don't trust it and I need a new one. One day.
Were the tracks aluminum? Aluminum cuts like butter on even a cheap miter saw. But definitely wear safety glasses, those little metal slivers can fly.
It sure if I’m the only one who has noticed this, but the top on this plan is labeled “ZZ”. Now that is funny.
Looks just like a professional did it....... almost
lolllll, in my defense it looked better the next day when it all dried, but yeah... not winning any awards for that particular caulk job. :)
2:53 and then you use a router to make a hole for your.....router