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Thank you so much, I’ve always said you’re my favorite uncle

Thanks Pharkie! I love the player-detection idea, dying to know how you’ll make that happen. Hit me up on Etsy after you buy the plans and I’ll get you the files through email

Fly the W!

Thank you sir! So in the plans one of the only changes I made after I built mine was to add a 1/2" more depth to the vault. I spent a lot of time debating between leg room under the table vs how high the surface is so it's not too high for kids, and after building it felt like the leg room is perfect (wouldn't want the table to be any lower) but that I could squeeze out a little more height to the vault so I did (in the plans). And yeah some people have shown me pics of finished builds with dark stained ply, some have painted the whole thing (I saw a white one with brass accents that looked great) and then some substituted hardwood for parts if it. It's obviously up to you, but using only ply helps limit any wood movement and is built to all fit together pretty seamlessly (and is likely a lot cheaper than hardwood) and like you I really like the look of quality plywood.

@@withJordanFrank I think plywood is better because the wood grain comes out way more interesting. It's more complex and even has symmetrical patterns. I work in a wood mill and I see ply sheets all the time that I would drag home if I could. Also, I have an improvised gaming table. I took a regular kitchen table, one that had a small support box underneath that holds the legs. And long story short I slapped on a bottom and turned the top into a removable lid. There's a lot more like adding a handrail, making it look nice, and what not; but that the gist. I didn't have to worry about the leg height because the basic dimensions haven't changed and the handrail only added 3/4 inch to the top. The handrail is a bit small but it's super comfy and I have a 3.5 inch deep play area. I'm genuinely surprised I haven't seen anybody turning regular tables into game tables.

Hi Jerrod. You will need 3 sheets of 3/4” and 1 sheet of 1/2” plywood. You will also need 1 sheet of 1/8” hardboard to make the removable velvety game surface (which is technically optional but is part of the plans). The plans come with a full materials list and a cut list to minimize waste.

100% still performing. Haven't had to change anything out, it's all still working as well as the day I built it. The ONLY issue is that about 1/3 of the octopus sticker has fallen off, which is a real shame, but it just means this bench has seen some stuff. And yes, one day I hope to have enough space to create The Buffalo 😅

A good ol' Dewalt DW618. Pretty standard, nothing fancy.

I love that so much! It's great to have a space that lets you do something you couldn't before (Wingspan is one of our favorites too!) so that's awesome to hear. Thank you so much for taking a chance on the plans and letting me know it turned out well, that makes me really happy.

I know I know, I’ve been negligent in my duties. Kind of lost motivation and I need to get off my butt and get making. Thanks for the reminder.

Ooh, very nice! Post a shot when you’re done on Etsy if you’re so inclined, I would love to see it! Sounds classy!

Thanks man, I wish there was more too. All I can say is its been a pretty bad year, but things are on the up and I'm looking to put more stuff out soon. Thank you for the encouragement!

Amazing, very excited for you!! I used the best plywood Home Depot had that day 😅So that was an A-grade 5-ply, I believe oak. There was a time when I did everything I could with their baltic birch but if I remember correctly that had already become scarce when I made my table. I did my best to match everything but it could always be better, you know? Good luck with your build, feel free to hit me up with any questions!

@@withJordanFrank OK, thanks. What would be the impact of the alternative of very carefully (and slowly) using a jig/sabre saw to cut the rectangular openings on the 4 side panels? I'm not sure we have a router that can take 1/2 inch bits and 1/4 shank bits do not appear to be an option from our Infinity. Would it create to many splinters? Even if we used tape?

How dare you question the design?? Just kidding that’s a great question. So the armrests are glued, nailed, and screwed to the piece below. They also rest on the four legs in the corners, which is a big help. The accessories slide in right against the table apron/sides so they’re stable and distribute some of that weight into the table. I’m not saying you can’t break the armrests off, but I think it would take some real effort or serious weight to do it, far more than the few accessories and/or elbows. Mine haven’t budged at all after a few years use.

Thanks Christian, I appreciate it!

This is amazing!! Thanks for taking the leap of faith and making it work for yourself. Please keep me updated with the results!!

Thank you!

Hi there! Its cool, if you’re new to TH-cam it depends on how you’re viewing the video (phone, pc, etc) but you should see something below the title (over by where it says “4 years ago” ) that says “more” with an arrow- click on that word or arrow to expand the Description and you’ll see the links, info, all that good stuff. That’s how it works for any video on YT. Hope that helps!

So sorry, only goofy imperial at the moment.

Thanks Mike! I don’t have an exact weight but it’s fairly heavy. Two people can move it though with no issues. I would not recommend going 1/2” - I think there are too many spots where 1/2” might want to warp. Particularly the leaves- those should absolutely stay at 3/4”. Hope that helps!

Ooh, love that. I hope you can grab a few ideas for your own design. And super excellent question: to be honest when I built it I was unaware of those diffuser panels and channels, but came across them after the fact and definitely thought they’d be a step up. Could I switch them out for those now? Sure. Will I? No, because I’m lazy. BUT if I was doing it again I might invest in those for a cleaner look and softer lighting. Great suggestion, and good luck with your build!

@@withJordanFrank thanks :) what size is your glue bottle? I want one for myself :)

@@jessicaalvis7063 Oh sorry, it's a 16oz one. I believe this guy right here: a.co/d/4uQKqNk

@@withJordanFrank thank you ❤️

Thank you! The depth of the “vault” is 3”, the leaves are 3/4”, so if you put the leaves on that gives you approximately 2 1/4” of space under the leaves for your pieces, puzzles, etc. If you wanted a vault with more depth (at the cost of a taller table) you could pretty easily scale that up simply by making the four side-pieces deeper; nothing else would have to change.

Thanks! I'll be buying the plans as soon as I can make some space to build it.

Awww, love that, go get it!

First: congrats on your new home! Second, more important than the first: congrats on the soon-to-be father hood!! That’s so great! I’m going to be pretty straight up and suggest you do NOT tackle this as your first real project; it’s a medium-level build for sure and will require things you might not think about like a lot of clamps, a router, a brad-nailer, a pocket-hole jig…. I mean unless you’re just diving full on in and spending a bunch of money at once, but… most people kind of start with a decent table saw, maybe a miter saw, and then your standard cordless handheld staples like a drill, a driver, a jigsaw, etc. And the rule of thumb is you buy the tool you need for the next project, and slowly build it up from there. You could always get lucky and find someone selling a bunch of stuff at once, but I feel like starting from scratch with this table would be asking a lot. You’d certainly learn a lot, but I don’t know if I’d be that brave if I was in your position 😂

Love it, thanks Tommmmmm. Good luck on your build, hopefully you can make it functional AND fun!

All you need is to believe in yourself*! *and a table saw, router, pocket-hole jig, drill-press is helpful, sander, a lot of clamps, $600 and a month to do it. But mostly just belief in yourself.

Wow. Yep, QWW's bassist and all-around-idiot since 1994! You are the first person Ever to comment on being both into woodworking and an obscure album from 2005, so now you're my best friend. Sorry!

You’re too kind! Thank you!

GTFO! Dude, Johnny, I've been watching you forever! You're one of my main TH-cam guys, and I'm not just saying that. I've been thrilled for you in your new space (which is awesome), and always hoped that one day I could make it down for a class. Seriously though, its a real thrill for me that you saw this and like it, you're a big inspiration and I can't wait to see what your take on a gaming table is. Thanks for commenting, made my day!

@@withJordanFrank that's awesome man, thanks so much! I definitely want to do the classes at some point once the attic space is finished out, it'd be a lot of fun. I'm about to dive into SketchUp to try and figure out how I want to build this table, wish me luck!

Super excited, eagerly await the end results!@@craftedworkshop

Thank you! If your floor is smooth its not hard to push around at all! Four decent casters that swivel = no issues

Awesome, I'm glad you liked it, and grateful you want to check out my other stuff. Thank you!

Thank you! And you are the second person to make that suggestion of reusing the circle jig for sanding and that is definitely better than how I did it, so thank you for that

Huh. When compared to MCU characters I usually get ‘Natasha Romanoff’, but I’ll take it. Thank you.

@@withJordanFrank lol nice, even a tony response. Classic

Thanks LSL, I had a crap day and that just brightened it. Thank you

Truer words never spoken. Very little is worth losing your fingers over, especially wooden game discs. I will say I feel extremely comfortable with the bandsaw jig, but for the chamfer on the router a jig would definitely be the way to go. Actually what I would probably do if doing again is kill two birds with one stone and instead of unsuccessfully bringing a sander to the tokens, clamp the sander upside down in a vice and bring the tokens to the sander. Then, while sanding, just smooth down the top edges. Doesn’t need to be an actual chamfer. Safer and easier.

@@withJordanFrank Yea, that sounds like a great plan. I am thinking of doing a gaming table, I really like your design btw, a spot to place the tops for the vault inside of the table and then a reverse ability to be functional is brilliant. I also liked your solution of using the T-Track. If I do a video, I will be sure to give you credit for any of your cool ideas I use.

They're a finnicky bunch that I don't understand at all, but I'm glad in this case they chose to align us. Thank you!

So far so good. No warping. I think it might be that I coated all sides with three coats of poly so it’s an even seal, but I suspect it’s more the tongue-and-groove joints between each leaf that is helping them keep flat.

I definitely did some comparative research for inspiration (Wyrmwood being a big favorite) but I’m unfamiliar with the Table of Ultimate Gaming. I’ll take it as a compliment?

Thanks Tysto! To be honest that wasn’t the original intention- it was to be able to store the leaves in the table. But then it occurred to me that leaves have two sides so why not add a little option to make it useful? Got lucky with that one

Thank you! Been sturdy for me for years now, no regrets. If it fits your space this is a good one

Thanks Evan, if you lose’em in the intro then the rest of the videos in trouble. 😂

Wow, so much great stuff here, thank you! First I will say I do not have any sponsors or affiliate links or anything like that, I’m not very business minded but probably should be, but thank you for asking. Second that’s a cool tip for a play surface, I will note that somewhere, thank you. Lastly, most importantly, I’ve had zero issues with the durability of the table. None. The closest game I play to D&D might be something like Scythe, but that doesn’t support books or character sheets or anything big and vertical like that. I have no actual plans at the moment to design accessories specifically for D&D, but the beauty of the rail system on this table is the all use the same back piece, so you can make whatever custom accessories you want as long as you fit it in the back pieces. You could absolutely have a larger tray capable of supporting books, etc. I can think of other ways to hook something over the top as well. I’d be happy to consult with you for ideas if it would help

@@withJordanFrankyou absolutely should set up an affiliate link for the things you recommend!

Thank you!

Thanks man, I appreciate it. Sorry to hear about your warping, that sucks. I will say I have not had that issue- I don't know if it's because I was careful to coat them all over with 3 coats of poly, or, and I suspect this helps, I think having the tongue-and-groove connection between the leaves might help. It keeps them semi-locked in with each other when they're on the table, and that might be enough to keep them flat. I don't know, but sorry to hear about yours.

@@withJordanFrank Thanks for the response and happy to hear your table top is solid! I actually glued/nailed another 3/4" piece of ply to my leaves underneath, just smaller so it still fits in the slots on the sides. The leaves to feel alot more substantial. At first glance it appears that it did fix my issue. But wont know until its completely dry. Thanks again!

That's a great suggestion, because, and I'm not kidding, every single one of the magnets in the legs eventually fell out and I had to glue them all back in with CA glue. The ones in the tokens were already glued in with CA and I haven't had an issue. So yes, adhesive backed ≠ no good. Screw-in or glue-in for the win.

@@withJordanFrank UGH. Yeah this happened with me recently on some magnets I epoxied into an aluminum work surface for holding down a metal sheet I need to be removable. The magnets recently started coming off with the metal sheet. The screw down ones have been good so far. I'm designing a 3d printable cable management system that uses them. They have way more holding power than I thought they would.

I can't tell you exactly how difficult it would be :), but I Can tell you the legs will hold the difference just fine. You would have to scale the leaves and adjust the spacing of the internal bracing to hold the larger leaves, and you would have to adjust the size of the holes in the skirts to handle the larger leaves. You might also run into a limitation if your skirts need to be longer than 8' (that's the longest you can typically get sheets of ply). So there'd be a lot of scaling and adjusting for that, but it seems doable.

Well thank you, that is a ridiculously nice thing to say!

Aww thanks Ryan, that's super nice of you

Thanks Matt, that part turned out real well if I do say so myself. :)