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How To Install New Tapered Steering Bearings-Vintage Motorcycle Restoration Project: Part 80
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- เผยแพร่เมื่อ 12 ต.ค. 2019
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www.keeponwrenching.com
Let’s install Common Motor Collective’s tapered roller headset bearings. This will make our steering brand new and silky smooth! CB or CL 350 users...use the think spacer! Please!
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/ bvmatson
/ bvmatson
This video series features the complete restoration of a 1972 CL350 Honda Scrambler motorcycle. The videos should help anyone whether working on a cafe racer build or a full-on original restoration. I'm definitely not an expert so please refer to your manuals for proper disassembly and assembly instructions. Please leave comments if you have any questions. I'll be happy to help answer questions if I can confidently provide solutions. Again, I'm not a professional. This is my 2nd Honda motorcycle restoration and I'm learning every single day. I'd love to hear your tips if you have better ways to do things. I hope you find the series useful and entertaining. I strive to show as much detail as possible so that the videos can be used as not only a how-to resource but also a reference for the placement and original set up of parts and systems.
If you don't have one already please get a manual for your specific project. There are many available online for download for free.
Common Motor Collective, from which I source many of my replacement parts, has a fantastic resource on their website: bit.ly/CBManuals
You can also join groups on Facebook and get involved in the community.
Keep on wrenching, Friends!
b
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It's really helpful that you put "Mistakes and all" in the video....TY
I appreciate that. Thanks!
I used a Park Tools cup press. Using the old bearing race as a guide, replaced the races on the Z50J without hammering. The lower race seats very deep into the frame. Initially I could not get the lower race seated with hammering and the steering lock fail to line up. Disassembled it all again, knocked out the cups, sanded and cleaned the frame bearing surface. Even with the cup press it took quite a bit of force to seat the lower cup in the last few mm.
Getting the surfaces down to bare metal is key. Can be very frustrating. A press would be great.
Thank you so much for specifically saying which spacer to use, saving me over here!
Happy to help!
Brilliant. Thankyou. Restoring a 1975 DT250 Yamaha. This helped a lot. 👍👍🇦🇺🇦🇺
Awesome to hear this applied to other bikes.
Thanks Brian. You have no idea how helpful these videos are!
That’s so great to hear, Jeff. Go get it!
instaBlaster
I really liked how u used a 2x4 to protect the race. A lot of videos ive watched showed guys using just a hammer or punch. I was curious witch was the top or bottom bearing and this video made it clear. I also liked how u showed the hump on the steering stem. Im about to replace my bearings and this video really helped. Thanku. Great job bud!
I’m so glad to hear that. Trying to be as detailed as possible. Thanks, Bob!
Thanks for these videos. They are a helpful cross reference.
The dinging of the frame @21:15. OOps
You’re welcome. Dings are inevitable. I’ve learned to accept it. Lol
Please, can you make a video explaining how to dry the front brake calipers on a 1985 Mz 250ts bike?
Don’t in oh w a nothing about those. Sorry.
Hey BB love it when you make mistakes I learn much more too many videos show a perfect job and as we know life ain't like.... that great videos
That’s great to hear, man. Stuff happens for sure.
Thanks alot for this video man. Working on a Soviet KMZ and finding proper guidance is like asking a pig for romantic advice until I found this video. Has been a big help.
Glad it was helpful!
Never a better time to replace these bearings that when you have a bare frame,lol, you'd be crazy not to.
Totally. Might as well.
Not sure if it helps but I had a hard time with my lower race, upper no issues but lower was a pain
Trick I learned was heat up the area on the lower race and it should pop out
Heat definitely would help!
Great Video thanks a lot!
You’re welcome!
Nice video , i am planning to replace the old balls on ct 70 with taper bearings . So i have to measure the thickness of the old bearings and then add shims to the same measuremnents ? Sugguests, have a old steel pipe bigger than the steering shaft and use it to press the new bearings and use a brass rod to hammer the bearings on the frame . Steel punch will dent the races and the bearings . Thanks for showing the video ,good job !
Thanks, Steve. I’ve really only bought the tapered kits or reinstalled the originals.
While putting the first bearing on, making sure you’re only hitting the inside part of the bearing, I’m internally screaming “use one of the washers or the old bearing!” I don’t even know if that’s correct, but I get nervous during these videos 😂
Also... “oooh feels like buuutter!” 😂😂😂 love it! Obviously I’m debating doing this procedure. Your rear wheel bearing video helped me out a good bit!
I've got the same kit and the thinner washer doesn't slide all the way down. I did have to heat the stem and old race with a torch to red hot to get it to come off. Any thoughts ? Looks as though it slides on with no issues for you ?
I was doing fork seals on my 64 Triumph this weekend and decided to pull off the triple tree to swap out the head bearings for some tapered roller bearings the previous owner gave me with the bike. I got everything apart and realized someone had already put tapered bearings in it, and they looked good so I left it alone. Less work for me...although I had to do some extra work to find out they were there. : ) Would've been good to know. I guess the previous owner didn't know either.
Lol. At least you know now. Nothing wrong with reps.
Was the triple tree rubbing the frame before you installed the shim ?
Correct. It was bottoming out and I had direct contact with frame tube before I could get the top adequately tightened. The kit came with a variety of different shims. I used the thinnest one. Once that shim was in it was smooth as glass. If it don’t feel right...it ain’t right.
Can you clarify when you felt was wrong that prompted you to go back anded add the spacer? I need to tackle this in the next couple days. thanks
The two pieces started making metal on metal contact as the bearing was seated. That spacer was needed to make it all smooth. There should be a gap.
No brass drift punch?
Not at the time. Have since procured. Luckily these went in easy enough.
hi mate. well done. jos li perspective just right. ke this sure can be a little intimidating first time but you put everything into perspective well. just curious though, when you were putting the new races in would it be an easier task if there was a little wd40 or light oil to make it slip on easier? or would perhaps some sort of lube be a negative practice?? thanks bro
I think those wanna go in dry. It’s a pressure fit. Would it hurt? Probably not but they’ll go in just fine without. Thanks for the feedback! I really appreciate it.
no problems mate. apreciate your quick response. im ready to have a crack at putting on an earlier model 33.4mm front end on my 1973 xlh. which now has a 35mm showa. i guess it would be pretty similar? thanks again mate.
I'm trying to do this on my bike, the bigger dust seal is supposed to go on the bottom right? I can't get it to fit into the neck tube, it's too big. The smaller dust seal fits in the tube fine but I think that's supposed to go on the top?
Yup! Dust seal on the bottom, under the bearing if I recall correctly. The flat one with a little ridge.
HELP ME MY FRIEND. YOU HAVE BEEN A GREAT HELP IN MY 1975 HONDA CB 360T RESTORE. I'M STUCK AT THE STEM. THE CMC BEARING KIT (SAME AS YOURS FOR THE 360) CAME WITH TWO SHIM WASHERS. LARGE/SMALL. THE LARGE ONLY GOES TO WHERE THE STEM BULBS OUT A BIT AND WON'T SLIP ON DOWN. THE ONE VID ON CMC SHOWES THE SHIM SLIPPING ALL THE WAY DOWN NO PROB. MINE STICKS AT THE BULB AT ABOUT AN INCH BELOW BOTTOM THE SMALL ONE OF COURSE WON'T GO DOWN. CMC SAYS THE SHIM IS REQUIRED FOR THE CB360T. DID YOU BEAT YOURS DOWN TO BOTTOM IT OUT ON THE STEM? DO I USE BOTH SHIM WASHERS TOP AND BOTTOM? DO I FORGET ABOUT THE BOTTOM SHIM AND JUST USE THE TOP? HELP BE OB1KENOBE YOU'RE MY ONLY HOPE.
I bottomed them out into the seat. All the way down.
The races. They go in a ways. Might need to dremel out any paint from those ridges.
They should go in straight…don’t let them tilt on ya! Clean surfaces…side to side. Ease it into the bottoms into the seat below.
I recently replaced the steering bearing in my SR 500 Yamaha, the original racers had already been replaced with tapered bearing by the previous owner, I probably should have just cleaned and greased the bearings in it but had the new parts on hand so I replaced them
The bottom shell of the tapered bearing that was in it and the replacement bottom shell of the tapered bearings I installed weren't thick enough to leave a protruding lip where the bearing seats in the frame where it would normally allow you to drift it out and it was very difficult to remove the bottom shell of the non original tapered bearing that was installed in it and whoever might have to remove the replacement I fitted will have the same problem
Another issue with the tapered bearings is they sit about 8 or 10 millimetres taller than the original racers and on an SR this causes a problem with bracket that the headlight mountings bolt to that fits between the top and bottom clamps where the forks mount and it doesn't allow the bolt that screws into the centre of the steering stem to seat properly
It would've been better if once I managed to remove the tapered bearings I had thrown them away and replaced them with standard bearings
I actually prefer the original setup now too. The tapered sets are really unnecessary. Nothing wrong with cleaning and regreasing the originals. Totally agree. OEM is usually tree at to go. Plus…it’s cheaper! :)
@@KeepOnWrenching
I'm tempted to get the real deal just so it all fits together correctly and so I'm not cursing any future owners, but it was such a pain to remove the lower bearing shell I'd be reluctant to do it again, I tried to weld a washer in it from underneath so I would've had something to hammer a drift against from above but that didn't work out so I sharpened a skinny screwdriver to be like a blade and then hammered that between the top of the lower shell and the part of the frame where the bearing shell seats until it opened up enough to put a washer in between the shell and the frame and then I was able to strike at the washer from above with a drift but it was a pain in the arse to do it
Long punch from the top…side to side. That’s the easiest way I’ve found. Once you get it moving it’s pretty smooth.
@@KeepOnWrenching
Yes normally that's how you would do it and I've got a great old bronze drift ("punch") that I would normally use to do that but what I'm saying about the tapered bearings is the inner diameter of the shell doesn't protrude beyond the part of the frame where the lower bearing seats so there isn't anywhere for the drift to strike
It was a nightmare to remove it and will be a nightmare for the next person who might try to remove the one I've fitted
@@hodaka1000 gotcha. Yeah that would be a PITA. Way to keep after it.
we can all get rich
I suppose so.
When you measured your bearing height you forgot to include the race. For people coming here for guidance, you need to measure the lower bearing WITH the race before installing the race in the frame head.
Also, you need to install the small washer between the top seal and the threaded head top.
Thanks, joe! I appreciate the info. Makes sense. It all appears to be solid after I got that spacer in.
There is not washer between the seal and the threaded head top on this bike
Sounds like Jack Black doin bike repairs. Lol
People keep saying that!
Less speed more haste. Seems like you rushed it. Thanks for the upload though, learned a lot.
It’s possible. Making videos gets a little cumbersome sometimes. Getting better!
How to buy
4into1 or common motor
I use a wooden dial stick it in the top of the head 3 lb sledgehammer hold the wooden down with my left hand rotate it clockwise while I'm tapping it therefore I don't scar up the inside of my head tube and I can push that bottom race out pretty fast as far as paint goes after any paint that's worth the crap unless you put a really good thick heavy clear coat on it in my opinion paint is as good as it's clear coat and all that stuff is as good as it's preparation you can put all that down on Rusty crappy greasy metal and it just ain't going to do no good
What type of wood is the dowel made of?
@@KeepOnWrenching Tree wood. Ha. I need some help from you. I'll ask here and go to the top and ask. I have a 1975 Honda CB 360T that I'm ready to reassemble. Your series has been a godsend to me. Thank you. I got the kit from CMC as well and it came with two washers. the large one does not fit. It get to a bulbed area near the bottom of the stem and stops. The Cm vid shows that the 75 360t takes this shim but mine won't fit. Do I hammer it on? It stops just where the stem bulbs out. Do I need to leave the shim washer off and put the small one on top? Do I bang it on and do both or neither? HELP MY FRIEND
No need to convert from ball bearings since ball bearings are twice as easy to install and last twice as long.
Yeah. That “upgrade” is over rated. The stock setup is just fine. Worth trying though!
Noticed you said you should've gone for VHT calliper paint on the frame. DON'T! it chips right off with minimal impact. I won't be getting anywhere near VHT calliper paint again. It is crap.
I haven’t had the same experience with VHT. I typically apply to bare metal. This paint in this video was just ok. Ultimately, powder coating would be great but it wasn’t used originally. The VHT has stood up very well on other builds. There are many options out there.
Lighting
Getting better every day.
This videos actually kind of hard to watch. Never use a steel punch to drive in a race. Always use a brass drift punch. Also, while you had the lower bearing removed from that triple tree that would be the time to bring that to a welder and have him weld on a new stop so you can get rid of that nut and bolt sticking out of there. Also that top bearing should just push right in with your fingers
Thanks for the feedback. Luckily disaster was avoided.
As a motorcycle mechanic, this video was hard for me to watch too. But it is always nice to see people try their best out there
That’s not how a bearing is greased.
I’ve since acquired a cool tool I’ll have to show it. This worked fine for the steering bearings.
Tell us how then.
Why you in such a hurry? Slow down man before you have a heart attack
I just work fast when doing videos.