Thanks for posting this, and well done. I was a personal friend of Dave's, thanks for pronouncing his name correctly. I miss him every time I go into the shop. He'd be happy, I think, that individuals are attempting his projects 20+ years after he is gone. Thanks again.
I'm very glad to have found this video. I became friends with Dave and his wife, traveling all the way from Ontario to Missouri twice to stay with him and once he and his wife came all the way to Ontario to visit me. Dave pronounced his name just as you are doing now. He was a wonderful, generous, humble man and his passing was a great loss.
I am a mechanical engineer and I must say you have done a very well job with taking a look at the material composition and what it does and why. Also later incorporating all that knowledge into a better gating system (bottom up) and other practical solutions, very well done ! I really enjoy watching your content, thumbs up.
I bought the book many years ago when I was in the Army. In the 1980s, I got a great deal on a South Bend Lathe so I never built the lathe. Good video. Good Luck, Rick
Finally, excellent advice for the backyard enthusiast - pouring over sand is essential if you don't want pock marks in your face! A large heat change will cause concrete (with a high percent water content) to explode - try it with a Mapp gas torch on an inconspicuous spot, but wear PPE! The water exits so fast that the cement is ruptured and turns into shrapnel. Now imagine, cement chips plus molten metal.
Great to see you pick up this project again! Quite recently I bought this book aswell and I'm very new to casting (still don't have the stuff to cast even, and it's pretty hard to come by in the Netherlands). It's great to see people documenting their process to recreate Gingery's machines, given that there are very few people who actually documented their proces for this. I will follow your journey and hope to see the end results :)
Sounds great! Most of my equipment wasn't bought but built. To be honest the stuff you can buy would work perfectly for zamak, and it's mostly cheaper than I paid just for materials
I worked in an old school pattern shop (Wisconsin Pattern in Racine WI, back in the day). Pattern makers make fillets using regular sculpting clay for the material and a ball on a stick. This gives you a very fluid, smooth, and completely blended fillet. Once the clay has a day or two to dry and setup, regular old fashioned clear lacquer. Lacquer is safe, dries fast, smells great, and is highly patchable. Update: Hey, that cast you made is pretty impressive! Nice work!! Regarding turbulence: Yes, turbulence is your #1 enemy when pouring.😢 BTW - Johnson & Johnson is HQ'd in Racine WI. It's an old town, but the Frank Lloyd Wright buildings and houses are amazing.
There is a similar process for making concrete counter forms. Place a thick bead of silicone on all edges and then use a fondant tool (metal ball bearing on a stick) to run a fillet along all the ends. The circular ball makes a perfect radius fillet, a perfectly straight line where the ball hits both walls, and the leftover silicone oozes out past the line. Once the silicone cures/dries, you can peel off the ooze out, leaving a perfectly rounded fillet.
Love the content, love your personal approach based on the knowledge and skills you're sharing as you accumulate them in your work shop journey, and love the amount and style of humor you add to the videos. Great job man. "Pursuit for better should never be for perfection, but from misconception to ever more refined misconception" -idk who 😅 keep up the good work sir. You inspire me to get up and tinker, mess up, and learn from it every time I binge your videos! Thanks
Thanks! From misconception to more refined misconception is a perfect way to put it. Even masters keep learning, because you can't master it all. You can get less bad at stuff though and that plus time means you can do anything. Eventually 🤣
My casting tools suck, however my welding tools are awesome. I'm going to be welding mine up from 1/4" 1018 and enclosing the bottom for higher rigidity. Great video casting is one of the trickiest industrial processes to do in the home shop kudos to you.
Jinjery is best pronunciation. . . It reminds me of gingerbread cookies and I find that wholesome... Amidst the smell of burning wood coal and the combustion of my own eyebrows... Hehe, shrinkage.
last time i try making this lathe design, i cut corners. i managed to get a section of railroad track. cut it half, bolt and weld it on a 3/8 inch thick steel plate. it is damn heavy and able to hold cutting force much better than aluminum as the book suggest.🤫
New sub here, always love to see another Gingery build documented. Good quality videos on them are hard to find and this is going to be really interesting to follow as if I ever get around to building mine I always wanted to try doing it in ZA12.
I read the Gingery books years ago and was always curious about how they would turn out. I'm especially looking forward to your truing process for the bed. Love your channel, btw, as a new subscriber.
For the risers/feeders you need Chvorinov's rule to calculate the size needed, as you used multiple riser/feeders you would section the part and calculate for each section. yes, gates from the risers/feeders to the part can freeze early which can also be due to the riser/feeders being too small. Absolutely the part can act as a riser/feeder to the actual riser/feeder, look at the gates when you cut them off, it will tell you a lot about what happened and confirm if that's what happened. Some metals will hide the feeding and you will see voids in the part or in the gates when you cut them open.
I think you're right. I cut them off and polished it up, and i don't see any cracking or porosity, but it looks like the bed has a little shrinkage if i set a flat bar across the top. Anywhere there is a brace with a feeder attached, the surface is almost 1/32" lower.
Gingery book: amzn.to/3BplxKD Want me to personally teach you how to use your 3D printer to learn sand casting? Click here: paulsmakeracademy.mykajabi.com/joinus
Making a janky Tilt-Casting rig would be neat…if you want ANOTHER project lol (I’m imagining some ungodly contraption made of 2x4’s Printed Parts, Misc Hardware and wishes lol)
I have seen many suggestions to mill the bed top rather than hand scrape it. Hand scraping has advantages over milling. The ever so slightly high and low spots created by scraping will allow your bed surface and way surface to mate closely and more tightly under flex, expansion, and contraction of dissimilar metals of the working lathe than 2 glass smooth surfaces bolted together. Hand scraped to 10 or so points per square inch is still a vey, very flat surface! It’s getting into semantics, but don’t confuse smooth and shiny with flat.
🌟🌟Awesome🌟🌟 - Great work Paul. A completely unsolicited suggestion came to my mind while watching you pour from that massive crucible. I wonder if would be helpful to somehow add a steel tube bumper right next to the pouring basin such that you could use it to support the crucible while you're carefully pouring from it? I could imagine it being a separate adjustable-height horizontal bar that is self supported so it doesn't bump the flask. You could adjust it's placement as you practice the pour before the melt? Looking forward to part 2.
I can appreciate why one would use zamak. I however am still opting to make a castiron lathe. Chirpy also recommended zamak to me, but my primary hesitation remains that industry is not using zamak for this application. That said i have not made my lathe yet, though not due to casting problems.
"industry" isn't hand-casting your own lathes. "industry" has "economies of scale" behind it, where their casting equipment is used 100,000x as much as a home-caster's, and anything that can save a dollar here and there is worth saving. In terms of cost, at scale, cast iron is like a penny a pound, zamak is several hundred times as expensive. If you ever want to do cast iron, you need equipment that can do it, thus foundries will all have equipment that can do it and it's no harder for them than to use zinc, so might as well. You will end up with a much better lathe casting zamak than you will casting iron, because anything you make out of cast iron is going to suck. It's an industrial process, not well suited to a garage process. This is like arguing that you're going to create multi-ton sheet metal stamping dies to create replacement 1/4 panels for your Camero because that's how "industry" does it... yeah, when they make 100,000 of them. When you make a single (or 20) 1/4 panel at home, you get an English wheel and a welder and patch it together. I'm skeptical of your decision-making in general if you think that copying "industry" is an intelligent way to build anything.
@MattsAwesomeStuff I appreciate that you think zamak is the better option, I encourage you to make your lathe from it. I myself believe I can reasonably make mine from cast iron. I would like to point out luckygen has no problems with his cast iron results, and is sharing his wealth of information on TH-cam. Also, I resent your low estimate of my ability to cast metal, and would like to kindly invite you to eat a dick about it. Of the things I know about zamak, I am less impressed than by cast iron. Also since you know so much better than me, will zamak be durable enough for my specific lathe application? Or should I stick with cast iron?
Oh btw, for a pouring shank, luckygen1001 who does cast iron casting, he has a casting shank that has wheels on it. It looks super simple to make, but i imagine its invaluable for heavier casts.
yeah his equipment is great. I don't think i could manage giant iron pourings, especially in my home garage. The heat is just too much, i wouldn't feel safe enough.
@@PaulsGarage safety is for sure a consideration. I myself have the luxury of 5 acres, I plan to throw up a roof over a sand pit. In my mind Lucky's pouring shank is a safety feature. Keep the hot away from the body.
@@RFMongoose that sounds perfect for iron casting. When I did iron it was outside on a driveway, but my neighbors were very chill about me doing crazy stuff 🤣. Now I'm in a new house. The neighbors are cool, but the driveway slopes enough my furnace won't sit still (it's on wheels)
I wanted to see some finished Gingery lathe beds, so I googled it and that led to a guys website with a video of you scraping a lathe bed cast by another guy. Seems to me your explanation of needing a larger flat surface to show the high spots is correct, this video shows the whole scraping process- How to rebuilding older machines using the hand scraping method ?
Regarding if corn starch based baby powder works as parting compound, my university uses it in their casting lab and we have pretty good results using it on Petrobond and sodium silicate. Alternatively, borax works just fine as well and is what I use at home. So really down to what you have available. I'm sure someone has tested all of them and can tell you which one is best, but for home applications I don't know if there is going to be much of a difference.
At one time I was using baby powder and wondering why my castings came out brown. It seems that baby powder is made from corn starch and it burns when the molten metal touches it and leaves the scorch marks on the casting. Getting real parting sand solved my problems. Thanks for the video keep on keeping on.
Lots of baby powder is cornstarch these days. The stuff I have here is talc, I think only Johnson still sells talc baby powder? Not sure. Real parting powder is probably the best way to be sure you got the right stuff.
Yes! I 3D print lots of patterns. This one is too big for my printer though. I'd have to print it in pieces and stick it together. Totally doable but I already had the wood one. Most of the rest of the patterns will be 3D printed
Be me to it a bit (typing this as i watch) but i guess i meant to counteract the but if wood denting, could *maybe* make it a monolithic part too (rather than a bunch of parts and a wood mold) *GRANTED i am about as experienced in metal casting as i am in cad…not that much, so take my ideas as just that lol*
Popsicle sticks are available in the craft section of any dollar store or the children's section of any craft supply store, and I always keep them in stock. Need a wood shim? Popsicle stick. Need to stir something? Popsicle stick. Bit of lunch stuck in your teeth? Break the popsicle stick and it becomes a toothpick.
You may have had the feeders long enough to open at the top and you could keep that metal warm with a propane torch for a few minutes, maybe. Good job.
I did not see shinkage looks fine! Did you find shrinkage? I don't think you have any that counts. Do not need the risers. Zamak Casting temperature - solidification temperature is between 10 and 40 degrees C. Alu is 80 and 110C Multiply that with the coefficient of expansion and shrinkage should be very small. I am falling in love with Zamak. Great job! Looking forwards to see how it scrapes. Keep up the excellent work. butter butter
It's hard to see the shrinkage but it's there. It's pretty minor but if I get the camera close enough, the shiny surface makes the camera freak out and it can't focus.
I would pronounce it Gingery, as in jinx, not Gingery, as in begin, because I have very Ginger hair. In my distant youth it was like someone had exploded an orange on my head. I could show you a picture, but you'd only laugh. I am used to it but it still hurts. That lathe bed looks the biz! Do you think any of the sand from the pouring basin got into the bed, or was it trapped by the spin trap? The only time I've seen something bigger cast was by Flowering elbow. He made a massive CNC router machine. Looking forward to the scraping.
When dealing with heavy pours like this, would it be possible to use a 1/4 inch plate set on edge that could act as a rest/pivot point to help control he pour and take all the weight off your arms and back? An alternative would be a one-sided cradle that you transfer the flask into, then lift from the bottom on a pivot point that would keep the pour spout close to the source. I know nothing - I'm just starting my journey in this. But as a person with no upper body strength, I like to find ways to make work easier, and leverage is my friend.
@@PaulsGarage the main criticism i have of Wikipedia is information (mainly on obscure pages i find at 3 am) being out of date, or the lack of information, moreso that stuff being wrong. Granted checking the discussion page, and the sources always helps too. Granted typical Wikipedia apologist here lol, but i find the being aware of all that and learned media literacy is a good thing, but here i go rambling along lol **On the related note, my vote is pronounce it “Ginger-erly” **
Just stumbled onto this series, I have the books and was thinking of making one of these. Why didn't you go with cast iron for the bed? That was one mod I was thinking of making for this lathe, even if I had to send the pattern out to Windy Hill Foundry to have it cast.
Cast iron would be ideal, but I've melted cast iron before and decided to never do that again lol. The radiant heat was painful. Imagine a weld pool, but instead of the size of a drop, it's a quart. Even with welding equipment on I felt like I was on fire!
Usually the best material for those kind of applications is cast iron, now I know it is super hard to do that at home BUT i kind of have a feeling YOU will do that ...hehe
I've done cast iron before, but its not fun LOL. I can feel my face burning just thinking about it. I'm using ZA12 here because that's more manageable for someone following along with the project.
@@sierraecho884 even bronze is no fun IMO, so much heat lol. But I'm modifying some stuff to make it go easier. I can't resist that bronze color, easily worth all the burns 🤣
@@PaulsGarage I know, it looks great doesn´t it ? Steel would be the holy grail for me but it´s super super hard. And the results are nowhere near as good as with ZAMAC, I mean this material is made to be cast. Aluminium is awesome too but just too damn light to create great details you need lots and lots of headpressure to overcome this with all it´s own issues.
Like posting an .stl somewhere? I wasn't planning on posting it because I didn't print this, but I suppose I could. I just made the alterations I mentioned in the video. Increase the height 1/2" and use thicker wood. Everything else as gingery said. Oh and no open slots across the top.
@@PaulsGarage No need for the STL just the written specs so we can follow along. I'd hate to just "wing it" and find out down the track that some change in dimension (like "thicker wood" or increased height turned into an issue with fitment of some later part. If none of that is critical, then I'm all good as it is! Also, I'm thinking of making a pattern board for the main pattern (will make it easy to create a one-sided pattern and easy to pull it out). Then use a 3d printed block mold to ram up each of the cut outs and place them like cores. If this is not too crazy, is the width of the "reinforcing ribs" etc critical to any later fitment or is this design more to just reduce the material needed to cast the bed?
You could save several hours work by finding a friend with a mill and do a simple cleanup pass to mill the top flat before going to scraping. I know a guy.
Question: Could you have replaceable cast iron ways milled? I'm sure so long as they were well bedded and supported they wouldn't go out of spec... Just a thought.
Hand scraping doesn't sound like a whole lot of fun. I guess you'll be able to tell us about it. My milling machine can only deck about a foot of length at a time but you'd better believe I'd be going that far with it then moving the work over and getting the other half. It's not ideal but for me it'd be good enough.
Sorry to say, it won't. Each time you move the casting, you're resetting your Z-height. Picking up and moving the casting will mean a Z-error of a few thousandths of an inch plus inducing twist in the casting each time you clamp it to the table. You'll still end up scraping in the bed and slides anyway, and it honestly takes very little time to get it scraped in, once you learn how to scrape.
@@1pcfred Best of luck buddy, I've been a machinist for 18 years and have built two of these lathes and the shaper. Your indicator ain't gonna save you.
@@1pcfred Don't come cryin' to the people who tried to tell you when your lathe chatters and cuts a taper you can't correct. Trying to cut the bed in more than a single pass assumes you can generate a parallel surface, but because you can only cut approximately 1/3rd of the surface and your only reference surface gets removed from the game every time you move the casting, even with the nicest indicator you've got (I'm assuming a cheap 5 tenths indicator) you're never going to be true or flat to the required tolerances. The method outlined in the book just plain works and won't take four hours to get done if you follow the plan.
Hi Paul, did you noticed that they were errors on the gingery book ? (hole placements on the steel plate). I noticed this fact when i have done a freecad modelisation (it appears to me evidently in the 3D).
yup vs. about 4ish for the aluminum bed i have. after cutting the gates and feeders off, the bed ended up around 12. And no i haven't estimated exactly how much I need, but i have plenty of za12 for the parts im using for that, and i'm going to use bronze for some of it, too.
I don' t know, it might work. I know some people use wax. Not sure how well sand would release from a softer material like hot glue, but if wax works then IDK
Ignoring the price, and casting difficulties aside, would aluminum bronze (or some other alloy) be a better choice for the lathe castings from a technical perspective? Like, rigidity and vibration dampening and such. There is also the bling value of having a GOLD LATHE, too...
aluminum bronze is difficult to machine and would be difficult to scrape in. I think there are some other reasons (mainly cost) why aluminum bronze would not be a good choice. But who cares, it would look sweet.
I miss the funny comments you used to add at the end of each clip. (just before you show the patrons list). are you ever going to start doing that again? and why did you quit, if you dont mind my asking... thanks and enjoyed them as usual
I don't think i'll start doing it again, but you never know. I stopped doing it because people clicked away and the view percentage would tank. Plus it was another thing I had to write that would slow down video production, and i'm really tight for time usually
Heh, I said you the name correctly...i smiled when you grimaced pronouncing his " weird" not so naturally pronounciable name, yet his friend confirmed i was right. Lol it was funny to me, because I'm not a native speaker yet funny that natives find his name unusual which makes no sense to me because i can't quite feel the tiny little nuances of English...maybe that's why.
The bit that baffles me is that zamak is supposed to be strong enough. My uneducated gut feeling would prefer welded steel when cast iron that could set for a year isn't available. I can see on my Stanley #5 how much cast iron can warp if it's too young. Actually I'm parroting the internet on this. But I salute people who build their own stuff.
Cast iron is definitely the way to go, if you can melt cast iron and cast it at home. I've done it, and never again haha it's waaaayy too hot for me. Za12 isn't as tough, but it's much better than aluminum and dampers vibration like cast iron. Gingery tried originally to design this with welded steel, but he couldn't get it to stop warping.
@@PaulsGarage Welding is a science in itself, true. And anticipating all the warping takes experience. I do not see myself casting steel anytime soon. Or ever. And I have the luxury of having an open workshop in town which has a lathe. Just haven't checked it out yet. I might buy a broken, small 40kg lathe in a few days costing 125 bucks, so that would be it, provided I can fix the electronics. If I ever make a lathe myself, it would be a watchmaker's lathe. But I do have quite a few things to turn like focusers for some travel telescopes. The lathe-shaped hole in my life yearns to be plugged. I so wish I had a basement where I could put a half ton lathe...
Metallurgical phase diagrams would be about a hundred times more accessible if they replaced the words "liquidus" and "solidus" with "kinda slushy". I think those terms are Latin for "Fresh Slurpee" and "Sad Slurpee You've Sucked All the Syrup Out Of". Fun fact: Icee is the original; they licensed their slushy beverage technology to 7-Eleven who branded it as Slurpee. Now you know!
"Liquidus" and "Solidus" don't mean slushy at all...they define the temperature at which the material is fully liquid, or fully solid. If you're below the liquidus temp, you're NOT fully liquid, and if you're above the solidus temperature, you're not fully solid. Hard to get more accessible than "this is the actual temperature that you're fully solid or fully liquid, anything between these is slush".
maibe call around and see if theres some hobby machinist around that has a big enough mill and a flycutter , maibe some engine rebuild shop that is willing to run their machine that resurfaces aluminium cylinder heads over it for a small fee , you would still need to scrape it some but it would be way less work as the part would be allmost flat to start with might want to wait a little after its been machined so any tensions in the material from the casting can settle after the machining takes some of the material away in autosports they use old engine blocks to build race engines , because those engines have been through a couple of 1000s heatcycles , the usually hold there shape a little better then fresh blocks , they call those blocks "seasoned " starting with a mirror with some sandpaper stuck to it probably works faster than scraping too as you can use realy course sandpaper to get it near flat then go through the grids once youre close th-cam.com/video/HyKN52HD6RU/w-d-xo.html
Good idea! There are a few machine shops around here and at least one guy I know of with a hobby machine shop. I want to try it by hand first but I'm sure I'll relent at some point 🤣🤣
mirror will flex too much, get a slab of granite kitchen countertop and stick some sheets of 60-80-120-200-400 grit down, grind away... it will be flat enough for scraping in a couple hours. maybe worth some annealing (tempering) for stress relief, I dunno how much zamak benefits from it. But from the description of the aluminum solidifying out first and floating to the top, followed by the zinc, it might have some? Anyways it would suck to put in the work and then have it slowly warp over time from residual stress
Why no cast iron? I have seen you melt iron in the furnace, so why bother with snot grade metals? I mean, i get it, its much more sparky and aggressive than anything else, apart from steel, which is the same thing, just less carbon, but i would go with iron... Also, i would make the flask from welded and formed sheet steel, as to be able to put it in my large wood barbecue and heat the mould properly... This is coming from a dude who has yet to make his own furnace and cast the first pattern, but i have some theoretic knowhow as casting iron and steel interests me for quite some time now...
@@tinayoga8844 No shit, but its essentially the only worthwhile metal to cast for projects like this... That and aluminium bronze maybe, as its very rigid and probably could be said to be a better bearing and sliding surface than even machined, oily cast iron... Its like saying that making a wooden house is easier than a proper concrete and brick house, but if you remember the story of 3 or however many piglets there were, if it aint made skookum, you are wasting time and effort for naught... Not just that, but you likely risk your life by relying on inferior construction...
@@camillosteuss Cast iron is more difficult and not worth it unless you have a lot more experience with it. The project originally calls for aluminum and the ZA-12 alloy being used is better in some ways. I don't know if you are familiar with the lathe design but it does not use the casting as the sliding surface. A steel plate is bolted to this casting and that is the bearing surface. I looked into making this lathe 25+ years ago. In the end I didn't like the design and decided to bite the bullet and buy a more substantial lathe. I consider the Gingery lathe an interesting project but not worth the effort as a working tool. You wrote "its(cast iron) essentially the only worthwhile metal to cast for projects like this". I don't think you have done much research into the ZA12 and ZA27 alloys. It compares favorably to cast iron. Do a search for the following PDF, FORTY CAST IRON PARTS SWITCHED TO ZA ALLOYS FOR MACHINING BENEFITS . www.albco.com/the-za-12-advantage/ alliedmetalcompany.com/wp-content/uploads/2018/03/ZAALLOY.pdf
that would've been hellish in 1980, he uses all kinds of new odd terms with no definitions, and no internet to look them up, no videos to even check out of library/rent/buy you could just nail a wood pivot fulcrum to rest the tongs on and bear all the weight as are pouring
Gingery was definitely a clever guy to come up with all of this pre-internet. A fulcrum would be best I think. Better than holding 20 lbs on the end of some tongs lol
It's jinjery. Saying it the other way just sounds wrong. Besides.. Paul is obviously a jinjery so... Yeah it just works out Stop correcting Paul. He's a genius you're not.
Nice beginning of level boss fight! I preferred how you were pronounced gingery 🫚 b4 succumbing to the YT mob, it sounds less like a gum disease. Great tip on the putty fillets, I've tried a few product and hated them all, so that's next on the list... last pattern I made I even made wooden fillets and wood glued them on- fiddly yes, but worked well. Enjoy your vids, so thanks 😊
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Thanks for posting this, and well done. I was a personal friend of Dave's, thanks for pronouncing his name correctly. I miss him every time I go into the shop. He'd be happy, I think, that individuals are attempting his projects 20+ years after he is gone. Thanks again.
I'm very glad to have found this video. I became friends with Dave and his wife, traveling all the way from Ontario to Missouri twice to stay with him and once he and his wife came all the way to Ontario to visit me. Dave pronounced his name just as you are doing now. He was a wonderful, generous, humble man and his passing was a great loss.
his personality shows through in his writing! It's too bad I never got a chance to meet him. At least we still have his books.
Done is better than perfect. Words to live by!
I really enjoyed this video. I want MORE!
I haven't finished so many things because they weren't perfect 🤣🤣
I am a mechanical engineer and I must say you have done a very well job with taking a look at the material composition and what it does and why.
Also later incorporating all that knowledge into a better gating system (bottom up) and other practical solutions, very well done !
I really enjoy watching your content, thumbs up.
I bought the book many years ago when I was in the Army. In the 1980s, I got a great deal on a South Bend Lathe so I never built the lathe. Good video. Good Luck, Rick
Finally, excellent advice for the backyard enthusiast - pouring over sand is essential if you don't want pock marks in your face! A large heat change will cause concrete (with a high percent water content) to explode - try it with a Mapp gas torch on an inconspicuous spot, but wear PPE! The water exits so fast that the cement is ruptured and turns into shrapnel. Now imagine, cement chips plus molten metal.
"I'm sure it'll never get old." Lol😂
Great to see you pick up this project again! Quite recently I bought this book aswell and I'm very new to casting (still don't have the stuff to cast even, and it's pretty hard to come by in the Netherlands). It's great to see people documenting their process to recreate Gingery's machines, given that there are very few people who actually documented their proces for this. I will follow your journey and hope to see the end results :)
Sounds great! Most of my equipment wasn't bought but built. To be honest the stuff you can buy would work perfectly for zamak, and it's mostly cheaper than I paid just for materials
Durham's! My grandfather swore by that stuff and it is indeed very good.
I worked in an old school pattern shop (Wisconsin Pattern in Racine WI, back in the day).
Pattern makers make fillets using regular sculpting clay for the material and a ball on a stick. This gives you a very fluid, smooth, and completely blended fillet. Once the clay has a day or two to dry and setup, regular old fashioned clear lacquer.
Lacquer is safe, dries fast, smells great, and is highly patchable.
Update: Hey, that cast you made is pretty impressive! Nice work!!
Regarding turbulence: Yes, turbulence is your #1 enemy when pouring.😢
BTW - Johnson & Johnson is HQ'd in Racine WI. It's an old town, but the Frank Lloyd Wright buildings and houses are amazing.
Sculpting clay? Like sculpey? I think I tried that years ago, not sure why I didn't try that here.
I don't live too far from Racine actually!
There is a similar process for making concrete counter forms. Place a thick bead of silicone on all edges and then use a fondant tool (metal ball bearing on a stick) to run a fillet along all the ends. The circular ball makes a perfect radius fillet, a perfectly straight line where the ball hits both walls, and the leftover silicone oozes out past the line. Once the silicone cures/dries, you can peel off the ooze out, leaving a perfectly rounded fillet.
Love the content, love your personal approach based on the knowledge and skills you're sharing as you accumulate them in your work shop journey, and love the amount and style of humor you add to the videos. Great job man. "Pursuit for better should never be for perfection, but from misconception to ever more refined misconception" -idk who 😅 keep up the good work sir. You inspire me to get up and tinker, mess up, and learn from it every time I binge your videos! Thanks
Thanks! From misconception to more refined misconception is a perfect way to put it. Even masters keep learning, because you can't master it all. You can get less bad at stuff though and that plus time means you can do anything. Eventually 🤣
Hell yeah man. Thanks for taking the time to respond
Well done sir! I am glad you finally stepped up and did this project!
It’s exciting, something has happened, the first step has taken place. It looks really good, I think it’s going to pass the test. On to step 2…
Step second half, hours of scraping 🤣😭
@@PaulsGarage I forgot to say it’s your fault I’ve been saying Gingery wrong in my head for all these years now, lol 😂
@@johnmccanntruth I say it ginger-ey. He's dead now so I don't think he cares.
Bed looks great, and on the first attempt!
First *pour* attempt, but I did have to ram it up a few times 🤣
Sweet can’t wait to cast mine
Go for it!
great casting
My casting tools suck, however my welding tools are awesome. I'm going to be welding mine up from 1/4" 1018 and enclosing the bottom for higher rigidity. Great video casting is one of the trickiest industrial processes to do in the home shop kudos to you.
well i'm not great at welding so you go me beat there!
You pronounced it correctly. Also, very nice job! I learned a lot for my eventual attempt. Thanks for explaining your work!
Thanks! Good luck on yours!
Good video. Great tip about practicing for the weight you will have to handle in the pour.
I always enjoy your vids - glad you're working on the lathe again!
Jinjery is best pronunciation. . . It reminds me of gingerbread cookies and I find that wholesome... Amidst the smell of burning wood coal and the combustion of my own eyebrows...
Hehe, shrinkage.
Maybe I should I should go with jinjery anyway because I'm a ginger 🤣
Dude, every time you do, you should take a bite of a gingersnap cookie to emphasize the point.
last time i try making this lathe design, i cut corners. i managed to get a section of railroad track. cut it half, bolt and weld it on a 3/8 inch thick steel plate. it is damn heavy and able to hold cutting force much better than aluminum as the book suggest.🤫
if it works then it's a good idea!
You got a good casting! Very nice!
Thanks!
New sub here, always love to see another Gingery build documented. Good quality videos on them are hard to find and this is going to be really interesting to follow as if I ever get around to building mine I always wanted to try doing it in ZA12.
Great build!
"I have a pathological need to complicate things for no gain"
I feel so attacked
I read the Gingery books years ago and was always curious about how they would turn out. I'm especially looking forward to your truing process for the bed. Love your channel, btw, as a new subscriber.
For the risers/feeders you need Chvorinov's rule to calculate the size needed, as you used multiple riser/feeders you would section the part and calculate for each section. yes, gates from the risers/feeders to the part can freeze early which can also be due to the riser/feeders being too small. Absolutely the part can act as a riser/feeder to the actual riser/feeder, look at the gates when you cut them off, it will tell you a lot about what happened and confirm if that's what happened. Some metals will hide the feeding and you will see voids in the part or in the gates when you cut them open.
I think you're right. I cut them off and polished it up, and i don't see any cracking or porosity, but it looks like the bed has a little shrinkage if i set a flat bar across the top. Anywhere there is a brace with a feeder attached, the surface is almost 1/32" lower.
You made a thing! Good job!
Only a Gingery can call another Gingery Gingery.
This one has been a long time coming 👍
Long time for a long casting!
Gingery book: amzn.to/3BplxKD
Want me to personally teach you how to use your 3D printer to learn sand casting? Click here: paulsmakeracademy.mykajabi.com/joinus
Making a janky Tilt-Casting rig would be neat…if you want ANOTHER project lol
(I’m imagining some ungodly contraption made of 2x4’s Printed Parts, Misc Hardware and wishes lol)
I have seen many suggestions to mill the bed top rather than hand scrape it. Hand scraping has advantages over milling. The ever so slightly high and low spots created by scraping will allow your bed surface and way surface to mate closely and more tightly under flex, expansion, and contraction of dissimilar metals of the working lathe than 2 glass smooth surfaces bolted together. Hand scraped to 10 or so points per square inch is still a vey, very flat surface! It’s getting into semantics, but don’t confuse smooth and shiny with flat.
Ahh yes Durham's putty, my dad & I used to piss my mom off by calling it "Mom's biscuit mix"😀.
haha i bet those biscuits were mighty tough to chew!
🌟🌟Awesome🌟🌟 - Great work Paul. A completely unsolicited suggestion came to my mind while watching you pour from that massive crucible. I wonder if would be helpful to somehow add a steel tube bumper right next to the pouring basin such that you could use it to support the crucible while you're carefully pouring from it? I could imagine it being a separate adjustable-height horizontal bar that is self supported so it doesn't bump the flask. You could adjust it's placement as you practice the pour before the melt? Looking forward to part 2.
👀you just gave me a idea, water putty to smooth out 3d prints I gotta go 🏃to test it out
I tried, it doesn't stick 😔 the wood filler I complained about sticks pretty well to 3D prints though
Thank you for info because I was gonna try it,good thing you replied because I would been like you 😔
I can appreciate why one would use zamak. I however am still opting to make a castiron lathe. Chirpy also recommended zamak to me, but my primary hesitation remains that industry is not using zamak for this application. That said i have not made my lathe yet, though not due to casting problems.
"industry" isn't hand-casting your own lathes. "industry" has "economies of scale" behind it, where their casting equipment is used 100,000x as much as a home-caster's, and anything that can save a dollar here and there is worth saving. In terms of cost, at scale, cast iron is like a penny a pound, zamak is several hundred times as expensive. If you ever want to do cast iron, you need equipment that can do it, thus foundries will all have equipment that can do it and it's no harder for them than to use zinc, so might as well. You will end up with a much better lathe casting zamak than you will casting iron, because anything you make out of cast iron is going to suck. It's an industrial process, not well suited to a garage process. This is like arguing that you're going to create multi-ton sheet metal stamping dies to create replacement 1/4 panels for your Camero because that's how "industry" does it... yeah, when they make 100,000 of them. When you make a single (or 20) 1/4 panel at home, you get an English wheel and a welder and patch it together. I'm skeptical of your decision-making in general if you think that copying "industry" is an intelligent way to build anything.
@MattsAwesomeStuff I appreciate that you think zamak is the better option, I encourage you to make your lathe from it. I myself believe I can reasonably make mine from cast iron. I would like to point out luckygen has no problems with his cast iron results, and is sharing his wealth of information on TH-cam. Also, I resent your low estimate of my ability to cast metal, and would like to kindly invite you to eat a dick about it. Of the things I know about zamak, I am less impressed than by cast iron. Also since you know so much better than me, will zamak be durable enough for my specific lathe application? Or should I stick with cast iron?
Hopefully we see some close up shots of your shrinkage in the next part.
I say it the same way you do. I ain’t changin’. Gingery. Gin like the drink. Jury like the the 12 of my peers.
Oh btw, for a pouring shank, luckygen1001 who does cast iron casting, he has a casting shank that has wheels on it. It looks super simple to make, but i imagine its invaluable for heavier casts.
yeah his equipment is great. I don't think i could manage giant iron pourings, especially in my home garage. The heat is just too much, i wouldn't feel safe enough.
@@PaulsGarage safety is for sure a consideration. I myself have the luxury of 5 acres, I plan to throw up a roof over a sand pit. In my mind Lucky's pouring shank is a safety feature. Keep the hot away from the body.
@@RFMongoose that sounds perfect for iron casting. When I did iron it was outside on a driveway, but my neighbors were very chill about me doing crazy stuff 🤣. Now I'm in a new house. The neighbors are cool, but the driveway slopes enough my furnace won't sit still (it's on wheels)
Oh yeah, I made a casting... Tray? Big casters. Basically a sandbox on wheels where I would put the furnace and all.
I wanted to see some finished Gingery lathe beds, so I googled it and that led to a guys website with a video of you scraping a lathe bed cast by another guy. Seems to me your explanation of needing a larger flat surface to show the high spots is correct, this video shows the whole scraping process- How to rebuilding older machines using the hand scraping method ?
Regarding if corn starch based baby powder works as parting compound, my university uses it in their casting lab and we have pretty good results using it on Petrobond and sodium silicate. Alternatively, borax works just fine as well and is what I use at home. So really down to what you have available. I'm sure someone has tested all of them and can tell you which one is best, but for home applications I don't know if there is going to be much of a difference.
Thanks for the info! I've heard people hate cornstarch as baby powder but ill have to try it for parting powder once I run out of this stuff
At one time I was using baby powder and wondering why my castings came out brown. It seems that baby powder is made from corn starch and it burns when the molten metal touches it and leaves the scorch marks on the casting. Getting real parting sand solved my problems. Thanks for the video keep on keeping on.
Lots of baby powder is cornstarch these days. The stuff I have here is talc, I think only Johnson still sells talc baby powder? Not sure. Real parting powder is probably the best way to be sure you got the right stuff.
Dont worry, I'm sure 10 hours of scraping make excellent youtube video footage 😂
Haha epic music montage of different views of scraping? 🤣🤣
Would a 3D Printed Pattern be a good idea?
Yes! I 3D print lots of patterns. This one is too big for my printer though. I'd have to print it in pieces and stick it together. Totally doable but I already had the wood one. Most of the rest of the patterns will be 3D printed
Be me to it a bit (typing this as i watch) but i guess i meant to counteract the but if wood denting, could *maybe* make it a monolithic part too (rather than a bunch of parts and a wood mold)
*GRANTED i am about as experienced in metal casting as i am in cad…not that much, so take my ideas as just that lol*
I imagine you were well pleased when you opened the flask and didn't find 3/4 of a lathe bed :D
Oh definitely 🤣
Popsicle sticks are available in the craft section of any dollar store or the children's section of any craft supply store, and I always keep them in stock. Need a wood shim? Popsicle stick. Need to stir something? Popsicle stick. Bit of lunch stuck in your teeth? Break the popsicle stick and it becomes a toothpick.
Good ideas, I gotta go get some
How much did the finished casting weigh?
You may have had the feeders long enough to open at the top and you could keep that metal warm with a propane torch for a few minutes, maybe. Good job.
Good idea!
I did not see shinkage looks fine! Did you find shrinkage? I don't think you have any that counts. Do not need the risers.
Zamak Casting temperature - solidification temperature is between 10 and 40 degrees C. Alu is 80 and 110C
Multiply that with the coefficient of expansion and shrinkage should be very small.
I am falling in love with Zamak.
Great job! Looking forwards to see how it scrapes. Keep up the excellent work. butter butter
It's hard to see the shrinkage but it's there. It's pretty minor but if I get the camera close enough, the shiny surface makes the camera freak out and it can't focus.
Couple audio issues there at the end lol but fabtastic video my dude! Been looking forward to this build !
I just checked and I can't believe I didn't catch that! Amateur hour for me here
I would pronounce it Gingery, as in jinx, not Gingery, as in begin, because I have very Ginger hair. In my distant youth it was like someone had exploded an orange on my head. I could show you a picture, but you'd only laugh. I am used to it but it still hurts.
That lathe bed looks the biz! Do you think any of the sand from the pouring basin got into the bed, or was it trapped by the spin trap? The only time I've seen something bigger cast was by Flowering elbow. He made a massive CNC router machine. Looking forward to the scraping.
When dealing with heavy pours like this, would it be possible to use a 1/4 inch plate set on edge that could act as a rest/pivot point to help control he pour and take all the weight off your arms and back? An alternative would be a one-sided cradle that you transfer the flask into, then lift from the bottom on a pivot point that would keep the pour spout close to the source.
I know nothing - I'm just starting my journey in this. But as a person with no upper body strength, I like to find ways to make work easier, and leverage is my friend.
Yes a plate or something to help hold the weight is the way to go
Wikipedia seems to say it's hard Gs in Gingery, I guess the internet CAN be right sometimes (I'll still say .jif though)
I suppose Wikipedia is as reliable as TH-cam comment sections anyway 🤣
@@PaulsGarage the main criticism i have of Wikipedia is information (mainly on obscure pages i find at 3 am) being out of date, or the lack of information, moreso that stuff being wrong.
Granted checking the discussion page, and the sources always helps too.
Granted typical Wikipedia apologist here lol, but i find the being aware of all that and learned media literacy is a good thing, but here i go rambling along lol
**On the related note, my vote is pronounce it “Ginger-erly” **
I cant find talc anywhere, what do you recommend?
Dude a grinder an that thing will shine up great
How much petrobond sand did you need to caste the bed?
Just stumbled onto this series, I have the books and was thinking of making one of these. Why didn't you go with cast iron for the bed? That was one mod I was thinking of making for this lathe, even if I had to send the pattern out to Windy Hill Foundry to have it cast.
Cast iron would be ideal, but I've melted cast iron before and decided to never do that again lol. The radiant heat was painful. Imagine a weld pool, but instead of the size of a drop, it's a quart. Even with welding equipment on I felt like I was on fire!
It may have been for a bit fancier metals, but is heating the molds a good idea? (Granted knowing my luck I’m imagining petrobond on fire lol)
As a rule of thumb you should always heat your molds and use them asap as they will collect moisture when they cool again
@@taylorfackrell1547 it might have been for steel/iron, but I remember seeing molds EXPLODE due to moisture.
most "heating" you see is either to dry the sand to give a dry skin, or to burn off a mold coating that has an alcohol base.
not bad 👍
Usually the best material for those kind of applications is cast iron, now I know it is super hard to do that at home BUT i kind of have a feeling YOU will do that ...hehe
I've done cast iron before, but its not fun LOL. I can feel my face burning just thinking about it. I'm using ZA12 here because that's more manageable for someone following along with the project.
@@PaulsGarage See I knew it, you at least tried it xD
It´s way hotter than Zamac of course.
Carry on!
@@sierraecho884 even bronze is no fun IMO, so much heat lol. But I'm modifying some stuff to make it go easier. I can't resist that bronze color, easily worth all the burns 🤣
@@PaulsGarage I know, it looks great doesn´t it ? Steel would be the holy grail for me but it´s super super hard. And the results are nowhere near as good as with ZAMAC, I mean this material is made to be cast. Aluminium is awesome too but just too damn light to create great details you need lots and lots of headpressure to overcome this with all it´s own issues.
Paul, are you putting up your "modified" pattern sketch/dimensions?
Like posting an .stl somewhere? I wasn't planning on posting it because I didn't print this, but I suppose I could. I just made the alterations I mentioned in the video. Increase the height 1/2" and use thicker wood. Everything else as gingery said. Oh and no open slots across the top.
@@PaulsGarage No need for the STL just the written specs so we can follow along. I'd hate to just "wing it" and find out down the track that some change in dimension (like "thicker wood" or increased height turned into an issue with fitment of some later part. If none of that is critical, then I'm all good as it is! Also, I'm thinking of making a pattern board for the main pattern (will make it easy to create a one-sided pattern and easy to pull it out). Then use a 3d printed block mold to ram up each of the cut outs and place them like cores. If this is not too crazy, is the width of the "reinforcing ribs" etc critical to any later fitment or is this design more to just reduce the material needed to cast the bed?
Woooh!
Not gonna lie, I wasn't sure this video was actually going to arrive.
You and me both 🤣
Ginger-e. Who needs 'right' anyway.
Solidify... is probably a more accurate term than freeze.
You could save several hours work by finding a friend with a mill and do a simple cleanup pass to mill the top flat before going to scraping. I know a guy.
Question: Could you have replaceable cast iron ways milled? I'm sure so long as they were well bedded and supported they wouldn't go out of spec... Just a thought.
The design in the book uses a steel plate as the ways. The bed is scraped flat, then the steel ways are attached to that as a base
Hand scraping doesn't sound like a whole lot of fun. I guess you'll be able to tell us about it. My milling machine can only deck about a foot of length at a time but you'd better believe I'd be going that far with it then moving the work over and getting the other half. It's not ideal but for me it'd be good enough.
Sorry to say, it won't. Each time you move the casting, you're resetting your Z-height. Picking up and moving the casting will mean a Z-error of a few thousandths of an inch plus inducing twist in the casting each time you clamp it to the table. You'll still end up scraping in the bed and slides anyway, and it honestly takes very little time to get it scraped in, once you learn how to scrape.
@@switch2472 yes because indicators don't exist. Wait, they do!
@@1pcfred Best of luck buddy, I've been a machinist for 18 years and have built two of these lathes and the shaper. Your indicator ain't gonna save you.
@@switch2472 I'd rather be lucky than good. You can only be so good but luck knows no bounds.
@@1pcfred Don't come cryin' to the people who tried to tell you when your lathe chatters and cuts a taper you can't correct. Trying to cut the bed in more than a single pass assumes you can generate a parallel surface, but because you can only cut approximately 1/3rd of the surface and your only reference surface gets removed from the game every time you move the casting, even with the nicest indicator you've got (I'm assuming a cheap 5 tenths indicator) you're never going to be true or flat to the required tolerances. The method outlined in the book just plain works and won't take four hours to get done if you follow the plan.
Hi Paul, did you noticed that they were errors on the gingery book ? (hole placements on the steel plate). I noticed this fact when i have done a freecad modelisation (it appears to me evidently in the 3D).
I didn't notice but I'm not attaching the plate in the way gingery does it. I'm going to more copy what makercise did
@@PaulsGarage yep, i'll see you're design in the next episodes !
What is the waight of the bed after it was cast? Have you estimated how much metal is needed for project?
about 17 pounds is the weight of the bed, that is what was said on the livestream on 5/20/2023.
yup vs. about 4ish for the aluminum bed i have. after cutting the gates and feeders off, the bed ended up around 12. And no i haven't estimated exactly how much I need, but i have plenty of za12 for the parts im using for that, and i'm going to use bronze for some of it, too.
How about using hot glue for the fillets? Most everyone has some on hand.
I don' t know, it might work. I know some people use wax. Not sure how well sand would release from a softer material like hot glue, but if wax works then IDK
Okay, just was curious
Ignoring the price, and casting difficulties aside, would aluminum bronze (or some other alloy) be a better choice for the lathe castings from a technical perspective? Like, rigidity and vibration dampening and such. There is also the bling value of having a GOLD LATHE, too...
Thermal stability is also a concern
Aluminium bronze would be an excellent choice
The best for everything lathe-related is likely cast iron. I can melt iron in this furnace but it's awfully scarry 🤣🤣
aluminum bronze is difficult to machine and would be difficult to scrape in. I think there are some other reasons (mainly cost) why aluminum bronze would not be a good choice.
But who cares, it would look sweet.
I'm sorry, I'm still confused. Is it pronounced "Gingery"?
Hard G's yes
Nice! I call it Gee In Gay Ray. 🙂
Why not bolt a steel or cast iron plate onto the base so you don’t have to do much scraping?
There is a steel plate that bolts on but the top has to be flat or the plate will be warped enough to throw the lathe off
I miss the funny comments you used to add at the end of each clip. (just before you show the patrons list). are you ever going to start doing that again? and why did you quit, if you dont mind my asking... thanks and enjoyed them as usual
I don't think i'll start doing it again, but you never know. I stopped doing it because people clicked away and the view percentage would tank. Plus it was another thing I had to write that would slow down video production, and i'm really tight for time usually
Heh, I said you the name correctly...i smiled when you grimaced pronouncing his " weird" not so naturally pronounciable name, yet his friend confirmed i was right. Lol it was funny to me, because I'm not a native speaker yet funny that natives find his name unusual which makes no sense to me because i can't quite feel the tiny little nuances of English...maybe that's why.
The bit that baffles me is that zamak is supposed to be strong enough. My uneducated gut feeling would prefer welded steel when cast iron that could set for a year isn't available. I can see on my Stanley #5 how much cast iron can warp if it's too young. Actually I'm parroting the internet on this.
But I salute people who build their own stuff.
Cast iron is definitely the way to go, if you can melt cast iron and cast it at home. I've done it, and never again haha it's waaaayy too hot for me. Za12 isn't as tough, but it's much better than aluminum and dampers vibration like cast iron. Gingery tried originally to design this with welded steel, but he couldn't get it to stop warping.
@@PaulsGarage Welding is a science in itself, true. And anticipating all the warping takes experience. I do not see myself casting steel anytime soon. Or ever. And I have the luxury of having an open workshop in town which has a lathe. Just haven't checked it out yet.
I might buy a broken, small 40kg lathe in a few days costing 125 bucks, so that would be it, provided I can fix the electronics. If I ever make a lathe myself, it would be a watchmaker's lathe.
But I do have quite a few things to turn like focusers for some travel telescopes. The lathe-shaped hole in my life yearns to be plugged. I so wish I had a basement where I could put a half ton lathe...
Metallurgical phase diagrams would be about a hundred times more accessible if they replaced the words "liquidus" and "solidus" with "kinda slushy". I think those terms are Latin for "Fresh Slurpee" and "Sad Slurpee You've Sucked All the Syrup Out Of". Fun fact: Icee is the original; they licensed their slushy beverage technology to 7-Eleven who branded it as Slurpee. Now you know!
"Liquidus" and "Solidus" don't mean slushy at all...they define the temperature at which the material is fully liquid, or fully solid. If you're below the liquidus temp, you're NOT fully liquid, and if you're above the solidus temperature, you're not fully solid. Hard to get more accessible than "this is the actual temperature that you're fully solid or fully liquid, anything between these is slush".
maibe call around and see if theres some hobby machinist around that has a big enough mill and a flycutter , maibe some engine rebuild shop that is willing to run their machine that resurfaces aluminium cylinder heads over it for a small fee , you would still need to scrape it some but it would be way less work as the part would be allmost flat to start with
might want to wait a little after its been machined so any tensions in the material from the casting can settle after the machining takes some of the material away
in autosports they use old engine blocks to build race engines , because those engines have been through a couple of 1000s heatcycles , the usually hold there shape a little better then fresh blocks , they call those blocks "seasoned "
starting with a mirror with some sandpaper stuck to it probably works faster than scraping too as you can use realy course sandpaper to get it near flat then go through the grids once youre close th-cam.com/video/HyKN52HD6RU/w-d-xo.html
Good idea! There are a few machine shops around here and at least one guy I know of with a hobby machine shop. I want to try it by hand first but I'm sure I'll relent at some point 🤣🤣
@@PaulsGarage how are you going to blue the bed up? You don't have a big surface plate, do you?
mirror will flex too much, get a slab of granite kitchen countertop and stick some sheets of 60-80-120-200-400 grit down, grind away... it will be flat enough for scraping in a couple hours. maybe worth some annealing (tempering) for stress relief, I dunno how much zamak benefits from it. But from the description of the aluminum solidifying out first and floating to the top, followed by the zinc, it might have some? Anyways it would suck to put in the work and then have it slowly warp over time from residual stress
@@SamStinson that depends if you lay thr mirror on a solid surface you should be ok , i done it multiple times with smaller single cilinder heads
Spoon
I'd probably just build that part out of steel.
it's pronounced Throatwobbler Mangrove
Of course!
Why no cast iron? I have seen you melt iron in the furnace, so why bother with snot grade metals? I mean, i get it, its much more sparky and aggressive than anything else, apart from steel, which is the same thing, just less carbon, but i would go with iron... Also, i would make the flask from welded and formed sheet steel, as to be able to put it in my large wood barbecue and heat the mould properly...
This is coming from a dude who has yet to make his own furnace and cast the first pattern, but i have some theoretic knowhow as casting iron and steel interests me for quite some time now...
Cast iron is much more difficult.
@@tinayoga8844 No shit, but its essentially the only worthwhile metal to cast for projects like this... That and aluminium bronze maybe, as its very rigid and probably could be said to be a better bearing and sliding surface than even machined, oily cast iron...
Its like saying that making a wooden house is easier than a proper concrete and brick house, but if you remember the story of 3 or however many piglets there were, if it aint made skookum, you are wasting time and effort for naught... Not just that, but you likely risk your life by relying on inferior construction...
@@camillosteuss Cast iron is more difficult and not worth it unless you have a lot more experience with it. The project originally calls for aluminum and the ZA-12 alloy being used is better in some ways. I don't know if you are familiar with the lathe design but it does not use the casting as the sliding surface. A steel plate is bolted to this casting and that is the bearing surface.
I looked into making this lathe 25+ years ago. In the end I didn't like the design and decided to bite the bullet and buy a more substantial lathe. I consider the Gingery lathe an interesting project but not worth the effort as a working tool.
You wrote "its(cast iron) essentially the only worthwhile metal to cast for projects like this". I don't think you have done much research into the ZA12 and ZA27 alloys. It compares favorably to cast iron. Do a search for the following PDF, FORTY CAST IRON PARTS SWITCHED TO ZA ALLOYS FOR MACHINING BENEFITS
.
www.albco.com/the-za-12-advantage/
alliedmetalcompany.com/wp-content/uploads/2018/03/ZAALLOY.pdf
that would've been hellish in 1980, he uses all kinds of new odd terms with no definitions, and no internet to look them up, no videos to even check out of library/rent/buy
you could just nail a wood pivot fulcrum to rest the tongs on and bear all the weight as are pouring
Gingery was definitely a clever guy to come up with all of this pre-internet.
A fulcrum would be best I think. Better than holding 20 lbs on the end of some tongs lol
i mean you're a ginger....so it's still a ginger-y lathe......i literally thought it was a pun on you being redheaded...
It's jinjery. Saying it the other way just sounds wrong. Besides.. Paul is obviously a jinjery so... Yeah it just works out Stop correcting Paul. He's a genius you're not.
Haha that's debatable
Nice beginning of level boss fight! I preferred how you were pronounced gingery 🫚 b4 succumbing to the YT mob, it sounds less like a gum disease.
Great tip on the putty fillets, I've tried a few product and hated them all, so that's next on the list... last pattern I made I even made wooden fillets and wood glued them on- fiddly yes, but worked well.
Enjoy your vids, so thanks 😊
I'm really happy with the water putty for fillets. Chirpy prefers wax even more but I haven't tried that yet