I pour zamak a lot. Melt temp is 800°F, mold temp should be about 400°F. After much search I was told that the mold temp should be about 50% of the metal melt temp. Good luck!
Try soaking the plaster filled piece in a high concentration vinegar (30%). If the piece is fairly warm when you drop it in the vinegar it should go faster. Interesting note is that this is how Hannibal got his war elephants past the limestone cliffs and into Italy.
Yep, I've used that method (and with other acids), plaster is pretty easy to dissolve. I was gonna suggest but you were here first. I didn't have the Hannibal story, either!
yep some heated vinegar in the ultrasonic (use a jar or bag sized just what you need.) should work nicely especially if you can get the high strength vinegar.
They did try to sell those here! Acouple blocks from my house is a Grocery Outlet. You find lots of wild things there, stuff nobody could sell, or overflow from unsold holiday runs. And it constantly changes, which is fun. Anyway, they had a reasonable supply of Tim Tams in US packaging a few years ago. It was glorious. (Also, the handle looks great. But Tim-Tams.)
Looking forward to progress on the Gingery lathe. I have to review tour videos because I don’t remember where you left off. There is another guy on TH-cam doing a Gingery lathe with Z12 and I believe he is ahead if you. Not cracking the whip on you or anything. Just saying.
We did all the preliminary testing for this one and came up with the burnout schedule. Im pretty sure we told Charlie and the crew that you can either throw the flask in a cold kiln or at 1350F, eithers fine.Its just a scheduling thing. Glad you enjoyed it. We use a power washer for all our devesting. Pop it in an old sand blasting cabinet and you contain all the silica. The cracking happens both if you let it sit to long and if you wash it to long. But many other castables will actually leech photo initiator after a month...so Ill take the cracking its cleaner.
@@DoyenVirtuoso-j1i All materials have some level of shrinkage. This greatly depends on your metal as well as metal temperature at time of cast. We have used this material for a variety of metals including bronze, sterling silver, and 14K gold.
If you're up for alternatives, dip casting is Really cool. Similar process, but you dip your part on a sprue into investment plaster or ceramic clay slip and build up externals layers. Doesn't take as long as you'd think, but it works a lot better if you're doing like 6 or more pieces at a time. When you go to fire the clay, having a heat-tolerable catch container in the bottom of your furnace is advisable (another ceramic bowl or high nickel steel). You burn-out the print and fire the clay at the same time. Depending on the shrink rate of your clay, I oversize my parts by about 15%, then when it's done firing, pour your metal as normal. The clay is much easier to get off as it's very fragile, but you can ultrasonic wash them also. If I need extra cleansing power, I'll dilute acetic acid from my lab grade 99% stuff down to 35-60%, depending on what I'm scrubbing, and place it inside a glass vessel so I don't need to wash the whole tank afterwards (it's a biggun' and takes an hour to drain). My unit heats up to 40-45*C just in normal use action, so I've never turned on the heater, but as always, volume and such makes a difference. Just don't fill it with combustible solvents. I've never seen one catch fire in person, but I've heard and read people who fill them full of IPA and forget that warming that much solvent causes it to aerolize, which is both a combustible hazard as much as it is a breathing issue. Mean Green or the like works too, but getting your own acetic acid is way cheaper.
Fantastic video. If I may make a critique. The music was a bit distracting and undermined the videos professionalism. For reviews/tutorials softer and deeper sounds make it easier to pay attention. The music had lots of high pitched instruments and they pulled me out of focus. It was very minor but for a 15 minute video it was much harder for me to follow when the trumpet was whaling in the back ground. Very the music throughout the video also would have helped. Pick two or three songs to switch between it was a bit frustrating to hear the same song all the way through. Loved it and would love to see more. Try doing a large casting and let us know how well it dose with much larger sizes. We do race cars and would love to try this for some brake caliper mounts or uprights and those are quite large.
There is a top-down resin printer which will not tug on each layer. My patent-pending method to 3d print metal is 20 times faster than lost wax casting and the surface finish is excellent.
I've used it as well, and can backup what Paul says. This stuff is easy to print, and easy to clean. For me the big winner is the Fast Burn out. Leaving my kiln on overnight and unattended....kinda scares me. Now I can just do the whole process during that day. For those worried by the sticker price of 1lt, it's what, 10cents a gram - and the 3D printed models are typically small and light. 1lt will go a looong way. The 3D model is probably the cheapest component (yet the most important). In comparison my plaster costs about $2 per kg (which is about the minimum you would use). Even Wax Sprues cost $60 per kg (and you use a lot more wax than resin).
I’m using a mars 5 ultra do you think this resin will work well with that printer ? Also do you think this resin will shrink a lot using silver and gold materials ? Thank you for making these informative videos, very helpful. We appreciate you.
Whack the cast piece into a glass jar (no other material!), fill with an acid of choice, drop into ultrasonic cleaner, run for 20 mins.. pull it out give a shake, repeat as needed. May need to decant to another jar to get rid of sludge during steps. That's my process anyway
Cook the trapped plaster in a mildly acidic cleaner for an hour or two (the thicker the longer). That should soften the investment plaster enough to blast away with a cold water jet wash.
Plaster is made out of lots of calcium (various compounds in various concentrations). This means it's alkaline. Thus, use a mild acid to dissolve it. Something that doesn't react with your metal...
@esurfrider7687 yeah it's just the default settings for the gk2, with 30micron layers, change exposure to 27 second for burn in layers, 1.3 second normal layer exposure
the prints or the castings? For castings, thick spots will always have worse shrinkage. I had the issue here because the mold was WAY too hot, and the metal was probably a little too hot. That worsens shrinkage problems when metal casting.
@@PaulsGarage I'm not too sure what the difference is but when I cast with Monocure 3d burnaway prints, I can't get good results. Whereas with sirayatech I get great results. It looks very similar to your failed prints with porosity everywhere. I thought it was due to resin migration
I hope you don’t get exclusively into casting really fine detailed projects. I'd like to see more hammers, axes, bells, spears, and leaf swords. Keep up the good work! Cheers from Alaska
I know you made a conscious decision to change the style of your videos, but I prefer the old 'I'm going to try some stuff and we'll see what happens' over the new 'i know what I'm doing now and I can teach you' videos
I totally understand. Those were fun to make, too. The issue is the editing time. Filming as I go and then trying to cut it into a video that made sense probably took 4 or 5 times as many hours in editing. It was insane. real life has gotten so busy lately (more work and more children) that i had to change or stop. I was considering getting an editor, you know, make them do all of that lol but the economics of that just don't work at the moment. I'm still toying with that idea, though.
3D Printer Resin: Monocure Burnaway amazon: amzn.to/46ETeqs Monocure Site: monocure3d.com.au/product-category/resins/industrial/burnaway/ Uniformation Printer, Code PAUL for $100 off: www.uniformation3d.com/products/uniformation-gktwo-10-3-8k-resin-printer?sca_ref=4345752.v3kdNjnqDi
As I'm Australian I've been using Monocure for years, and honestly all their resins (and customer support) are great.
I pour zamak a lot. Melt temp is 800°F, mold temp should be about 400°F. After much search I was told that the mold temp should be about 50% of the metal melt temp. Good luck!
Thanks! i'll give that a try
I use a pressure washer to blast away the plaster and it works great!
Your blender skills are getting better! Good job! 👍🏻
Try soaking the plaster filled piece in a high concentration vinegar (30%). If the piece is fairly warm when you drop it in the vinegar it should go faster. Interesting note is that this is how Hannibal got his war elephants past the limestone cliffs and into Italy.
That's a really good idea, thanks!! I knew that about Hannibal but I didn't make that connection here. Very cool, thanks
Yep, I've used that method (and with other acids), plaster is pretty easy to dissolve. I was gonna suggest but you were here first. I didn't have the Hannibal story, either!
yep some heated vinegar in the ultrasonic (use a jar or bag sized just what you need.) should work nicely especially if you can get the high strength vinegar.
They did try to sell those here! Acouple blocks from my house is a Grocery Outlet. You find lots of wild things there, stuff nobody could sell, or overflow from unsold holiday runs. And it constantly changes, which is fun. Anyway, they had a reasonable supply of Tim Tams in US packaging a few years ago. It was glorious.
(Also, the handle looks great. But Tim-Tams.)
Looking forward to progress on the Gingery lathe. I have to review tour videos because I don’t remember where you left off.
There is another guy on TH-cam doing a Gingery lathe with Z12 and I believe he is ahead if you. Not cracking the whip on you or anything. Just saying.
Best way to eat a Timtam is to bite a small bit off each end & use it as a straw to drink tea/coffee through.
isnt that where you put the drugs?
@@lamMeTV um, I don't get it. What drugs?
TIMTAM SLAM! 👍
The chocolate version of lost resin casting🤣
Hot chocolate or bust.
That chocolate is great! The bug protein really makes it's flavor even better! 😊
If you get more Tim Tams, try a "Tim Tam Slam". Your welcome.
We did all the preliminary testing for this one and came up with the burnout schedule. Im pretty sure we told Charlie and the crew that you can either throw the flask in a cold kiln or at 1350F, eithers fine.Its just a scheduling thing. Glad you enjoyed it.
We use a power washer for all our devesting. Pop it in an old sand blasting cabinet and you contain all the silica.
The cracking happens both if you let it sit to long and if you wash it to long. But many other castables will actually leech photo initiator after a month...so Ill take the cracking its cleaner.
Do you suggest this resin when casting silver / gold ? Do you think a pair of grillz would shrink ?
@@DoyenVirtuoso-j1i All materials have some level of shrinkage. This greatly depends on your metal as well as metal temperature at time of cast.
We have used this material for a variety of metals including bronze, sterling silver, and 14K gold.
Sonic cleaners are worth every penny. Been thinking about getting one.
If you're up for alternatives, dip casting is Really cool. Similar process, but you dip your part on a sprue into investment plaster or ceramic clay slip and build up externals layers. Doesn't take as long as you'd think, but it works a lot better if you're doing like 6 or more pieces at a time. When you go to fire the clay, having a heat-tolerable catch container in the bottom of your furnace is advisable (another ceramic bowl or high nickel steel). You burn-out the print and fire the clay at the same time. Depending on the shrink rate of your clay, I oversize my parts by about 15%, then when it's done firing, pour your metal as normal. The clay is much easier to get off as it's very fragile, but you can ultrasonic wash them also.
If I need extra cleansing power, I'll dilute acetic acid from my lab grade 99% stuff down to 35-60%, depending on what I'm scrubbing, and place it inside a glass vessel so I don't need to wash the whole tank afterwards (it's a biggun' and takes an hour to drain). My unit heats up to 40-45*C just in normal use action, so I've never turned on the heater, but as always, volume and such makes a difference. Just don't fill it with combustible solvents. I've never seen one catch fire in person, but I've heard and read people who fill them full of IPA and forget that warming that much solvent causes it to aerolize, which is both a combustible hazard as much as it is a breathing issue. Mean Green or the like works too, but getting your own acetic acid is way cheaper.
Fantastic video. If I may make a critique. The music was a bit distracting and undermined the videos professionalism. For reviews/tutorials softer and deeper sounds make it easier to pay attention. The music had lots of high pitched instruments and they pulled me out of focus. It was very minor but for a 15 minute video it was much harder for me to follow when the trumpet was whaling in the back ground. Very the music throughout the video also would have helped. Pick two or three songs to switch between it was a bit frustrating to hear the same song all the way through.
Loved it and would love to see more. Try doing a large casting and let us know how well it dose with much larger sizes. We do race cars and would love to try this for some brake caliper mounts or uprights and those are quite large.
A few resins including sirya and bluecast also handle rapid burnouts with a proper cure. I cast both regularly with a 5 hour burnout.
There is a top-down resin printer which will not tug on each layer. My patent-pending method to 3d print metal is 20 times faster than lost wax casting and the surface finish is excellent.
I love your videos, so funnnnnnneeeeeee!
I've used it as well, and can backup what Paul says. This stuff is easy to print, and easy to clean. For me the big winner is the Fast Burn out. Leaving my kiln on overnight and unattended....kinda scares me. Now I can just do the whole process during that day. For those worried by the sticker price of 1lt, it's what, 10cents a gram - and the 3D printed models are typically small and light. 1lt will go a looong way. The 3D model is probably the cheapest component (yet the most important). In comparison my plaster costs about $2 per kg (which is about the minimum you would use). Even Wax Sprues cost $60 per kg (and you use a lot more wax than resin).
I’m using a mars 5 ultra do you think this resin will work well with that printer ? Also do you think this resin will shrink a lot using silver and gold materials ? Thank you for making these informative videos, very helpful. We appreciate you.
can you cast silver with really fine details? like that ring?
Having fun in the garage!
Whack the cast piece into a glass jar (no other material!), fill with an acid of choice, drop into ultrasonic cleaner, run for 20 mins.. pull it out give a shake, repeat as needed. May need to decant to another jar to get rid of sludge during steps. That's my process anyway
Cook the trapped plaster in a mildly acidic cleaner for an hour or two (the thicker the longer). That should soften the investment plaster enough to blast away with a cold water jet wash.
FYI, they do sell Tim Tams here (try in upscale grocery stores.)
You are like a casting super hero. You should buy yourself a couch
Wegmans grocery stores on the US east coast sell Tim Tams. Some others do as well.
Plaster is made out of lots of calcium (various compounds in various concentrations). This means it's alkaline. Thus, use a mild acid to dissolve it. Something that doesn't react with your metal...
Minor nitpick Paul: a Tim Tam is a biscuit (what you would call a cookie 🙄), not a chocolate bar.
We are as small as the things we let bother us
Try using a water pick like you would use for oral care.
That's a really good idea! i have one of those. Maybe i'll get a new one and demote the old one to plaster duty
@@PaulsGarage everybody needs a plaster pick
Pricey, but very interesting!
I agree! I'm definitely using it. At a few bucks per casting, it's not do bad in actual use.
Hey can you share the resin print settings you used please?
@esurfrider7687 yeah it's just the default settings for the gk2, with 30micron layers, change exposure to 27 second for burn in layers, 1.3 second normal layer exposure
How come the shrinkage is so bad on the thicker prints ? I’ve been having the same issues unfortunately
the prints or the castings? For castings, thick spots will always have worse shrinkage. I had the issue here because the mold was WAY too hot, and the metal was probably a little too hot. That worsens shrinkage problems when metal casting.
@@PaulsGarage I'm not too sure what the difference is but when I cast with Monocure 3d burnaway prints, I can't get good results. Whereas with sirayatech I get great results. It looks very similar to your failed prints with porosity everywhere. I thought it was due to resin migration
ROFL. that's a TimTam. we class that as a biscuit.
a chocolate coated biscuit, but still in the biscuit aisle.
I hope you don’t get exclusively into casting really fine detailed projects. I'd like to see more hammers, axes, bells, spears, and leaf swords.
Keep up the good work!
Cheers from Alaska
use air gun to get rid of plaster
Nice review. Go the Aussies :)
sandblaster
I know you made a conscious decision to change the style of your videos, but I prefer the old 'I'm going to try some stuff and we'll see what happens' over the new 'i know what I'm doing now and I can teach you' videos
I totally understand. Those were fun to make, too. The issue is the editing time. Filming as I go and then trying to cut it into a video that made sense probably took 4 or 5 times as many hours in editing. It was insane. real life has gotten so busy lately (more work and more children) that i had to change or stop. I was considering getting an editor, you know, make them do all of that lol but the economics of that just don't work at the moment. I'm still toying with that idea, though.
$750 per gallon. Yikes.
Yeah the stuff ain't cheap, that's for sure. Good thing is 1 liter will probably last for a LOOOONG time with small stuff like this
@@PaulsGarage Definitely. I was surprised at the estimated cost that the slicer spit out. Doesn't seem too bad at all for smalls.
It's 400 USD for 4 Litres on their website?
Proudly admiting to tampering the reviews?
i turned into a burnout real, real fast.
this feels different..
Haha I know what you mean