I bought the modified ultimate sweater machine carriage and it wasn't all that it is definitely easier to get the yarn in and out of the carriage but I found that the usm carriage was very giggly on the needle bed where as with the older bond carriage it was very solid on the bed so the fabric guide didn't bother me.
@Thesweaterfactory No it wasn't. And I remember getting one when they came out but I wasn't particularly taken with it. probably because I was happy with the Rube Goldberg technique. Once they modified the carriage to get rid of the wire fabric guide, intarsia became easier in general.
@Thesweaterfactory No, but it's mostly because I don't have the space to leave it up. I'm angling to live in a larger space where I can leave my machine up all the time. In that case, I'll use it a lot more. It's tiresome to dig supplies and tools out every time one wants to make a new project.
Hi Cheryl, how are you doing? I hope this finds you well. I found a post that I saved, about intarsia, But it sounded a bit confusing to me. It reads as follows: "Did you know that there is a method of intarsia where you use one color in the background and have the other facing the front. You remove the stitch from the machine with the prong tool and wrap the other color in a figure eight fashion and wrap one around the base. The back shows which stitches have the alternating color making the pattern easier to follow visually. I was taught this way back when I bought my LK150 in the mid 90s but have always been to skittish to try it. Supposedly, it keeps your tension more stable too." I don't know what she is trying to explain about the figure 8 and how to wrap the yarn under the base. Under the base where? I have no clue!! Can you help?
I'm sure glad to find your videos. WHY the Rube Goldberg thing? What happens if you don't do that? You mentioned the yarn looping - what does that mean - what does that look like?
1) Rube Goldberg because this was done before there was an intarsia carriage and with the original carriage with the wire. It's cleaner and easier than carrying all the colors you want to use inside the wire guide across every row. 2) The yarn does not get pulled through the stitches on the needles, it just gets caught in each hook.
Whew. I bungled my first try at this. I started out trying to change colors at an angle. I left a couple of holes on the first couple of passes. It wasn't pretty. Then I wasn't careful about the yarn being in the eye or behind the guide and dropped half of the piece off of the needles! Anywho, I rehung my 49 needle sampler back to some striping I did earlier (It's easy to find the stitches at the color change), and tried again. It's going much better! One Question: Do I have to cross the yarns in both directions or just one?
Okay, two questions. I'm guessing that if the next stitch of your intarsia panel is more than one stitch away, then it would be best practice to carry the stitch over on the previous row to where it will start. Is this correct?
+Salvatore Patrone Do you mean over and under like you do for weaving in a yarn end? Not necessarily. It's ok to have a "float" in the back of the work. Try it both ways and see what works best for you. That's really the best way to learn in a hurry.
+Carmen Diaz I'll have to measure them and get back to you. Have you joined my knitting newsletter group over at cherylbrunette.com yet? Please do. You get all the news that's fit to print.
+Carmen Diaz I'll have to dig them out and measure them and I'll get back to you. Have you joined my knitting newsletter group over at cherylbrunette.com yet? Please do. You get all the news that's fit to print.
@Thesweaterfactory Yes. I like my original machine. It was solid and well-made.
I bought the modified ultimate sweater machine carriage and it wasn't all that it is definitely easier to get the yarn in and out of the carriage but I found that the usm carriage was very giggly on the needle bed where as with the older bond carriage it was very solid on the bed so the fabric guide didn't bother me.
@Thesweaterfactory No it wasn't. And I remember getting one when they came out but I wasn't particularly taken with it. probably because I was happy with the Rube Goldberg technique. Once they modified the carriage to get rid of the wire fabric guide, intarsia became easier in general.
@Thesweaterfactory No, but it's mostly because I don't have the space to leave it up. I'm angling to live in a larger space where I can leave my machine up all the time. In that case, I'll use it a lot more. It's tiresome to dig supplies and tools out every time one wants to make a new project.
Hi Cheryl, how are you doing? I hope this finds you well. I found a post that I saved, about intarsia, But it sounded a bit confusing to me. It reads as follows: "Did you know that there is a method of intarsia where you use one color in the background and have the other facing the front. You remove the stitch from the machine with the prong tool and wrap the other color in a figure eight fashion and wrap one around the base. The back shows which stitches have the alternating color making the pattern easier to follow visually. I was taught this way back when I bought my LK150 in the mid 90s but have always been to skittish to try it. Supposedly, it keeps your tension more stable too." I don't know what she is trying to explain about the figure 8 and how to wrap the yarn under the base. Under the base where? I have no clue!! Can you help?
I'm sure glad to find your videos. WHY the Rube Goldberg thing? What happens if you don't do that? You mentioned the yarn looping - what does that mean - what does that look like?
1) Rube Goldberg because this was done before there was an intarsia carriage and with the original carriage with the wire. It's cleaner and easier than carrying all the colors you want to use inside the wire guide across every row.
2) The yarn does not get pulled through the stitches on the needles, it just gets caught in each hook.
Whew. I bungled my first try at this. I started out trying to change colors at an angle. I left a couple of holes on the first couple of passes. It wasn't pretty. Then I wasn't careful about the yarn being in the eye or behind the guide and dropped half of the piece off of the needles! Anywho, I rehung my 49 needle sampler back to some striping I did earlier (It's easy to find the stitches at the color change), and tried again. It's going much better! One Question: Do I have to cross the yarns in both directions or just one?
+Salvatore Patrone You need to cross the yarns at every color change on every row.
do you still use your bond to this day
was the intarsia keyplate not available when you made this tape
Okay, two questions. I'm guessing that if the next stitch of your intarsia panel is more than one stitch away, then it would be best practice to carry the stitch over on the previous row to where it will start. Is this correct?
+Salvatore Patrone Do you mean over and under like you do for weaving in a yarn end? Not necessarily. It's ok to have a "float" in the back of the work. Try it both ways and see what works best for you. That's really the best way to learn in a hurry.
I have the ez sweater machine but I don't have the green card and yellow I will like to make it can you tell me how many inches they are
+Carmen Diaz I'll have to measure them and get back to you. Have you joined my knitting newsletter group over at cherylbrunette.com yet? Please do. You get all the news that's fit to print.
+Carmen Diaz I'll have to dig them out and measure them and I'll get back to you. Have you joined my knitting newsletter group over at cherylbrunette.com yet? Please do. You get all the news that's fit to print.
Thank rose did it I know now but thank you
+Carmen Diaz Great.