How to Replace Starter 2007-11 Honda CR-V
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- เผยแพร่เมื่อ 30 ส.ค. 2018
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New Starter from 1AAuto.com 1aau.to/ia/1AEST00516
1A Auto shows you how to repair, install, fix, change or replace a broken, damaged, worn or faulty ignition starter. This video is applicable to the 07, 08, 09, 10, 11 Honda CR-V
This process should be similar on the following vehicles:
2007 Honda CR-V
2008 Honda CR-V
2009 Honda CR-V
2010 Honda CR-V
2011 Honda CR-V
🔧 List of tools used:
• Flat Blade Screwdriver 1aau.to/obo/1AXAA00013
• 10mm Wrench 1aau.to/oP/1AXAA00010
• 12mm Socket 1aau.to/obb/1AXAA00015
• 14mm Socket 1aau.to/obb/1AXAA00015
• 1/2 Inch Breaker Bar 1aau.to/oo/1AXAA00078
• Ratchet 1aau.to/obB/1AXAA00016
• Socket Extensions 1aau.to/obb/1AXAA00015
• Torque Wrench 1aau.to/oaE/1AXAA00044
• Center Punch 1aau.to/on/1AXAA00055
• Floor Jack 1aau.to/oV/1AXAA00068
• Hammer 1aau.to/oN/1AXAA00091
• Jack Stands 1aau.to/oV/1AXAA00065
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Honda CR-V 2007-2011 3rd Gen: • Honda CR-V 2007-2011 3...
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While 1A Auto strives to make the information provided in this video as accurate as possible, it makes no claims, promises, or guarantees about the accuracy, completeness or applicability of the content. No information contained in this video shall create any expressed or implied warranty or guarantee of any particular result. All do-it-yourself projects entail some risk. It is the sole responsibility of the viewer to assume this risk. 1A Auto is not responsible or liable for any loss damage (including, but not limited to, actual, consequential, or punitive), liability, claim, or any other injury or cause related to or resulting from any information posted in this video. - ยานยนต์และพาหนะ
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I know it's pretty randomly asking but does anybody know a good website to watch new tv shows online?
Very clear and explained video congratulations 🍾 good job 👍
Great video, excellent explanation. She's awesome with those tools. Congratulations mrs....you rock!!!
@@joziahkeanu1465 Freevee
I spent hours today messing around trying to remove and reinstall the back starter bolt and I finally just decided to remove the intake manifold. I wish I would have done this to begin with. Instead of taking 4-5 hours I would have been done in 1.5-2 hours tops. I unbolted the throttle body and removed a few small coolant hoses off of the throttle body and a few electrical connectors. I found removing the upper radiator supports allowed me to push the radiator back enough to slide the manifold up and out. I also bent the hood rod retainer up slightly and bent it back into place afterwards to provide clearance for the manifold to come out. Its only 5 bolts holding the manifold and just reuse the gaskets as long as you are careful not to damage them.
Tips here:
Thank you for this video. Many comments here say it's the best one on this job, and I would agree, it's the best one I found by a stretch.
A couple tips for coming from underneath (as in this video): I was really glad I made a trip to Harbor Freight and bought a 27 mm deep socket to take off the NOX sensor. I'm really not sure how people get that upper 14mm bolt out of there otherwise. After getting the socket on the sensor, I was able to push my ratchet up against the wiring just enough to get it on the socket.
Getting that 14mm bolt out (and getting it back in) is really the crux of the job. On that I tried various combinations of extensions. What I concluded was that two different extensions are needed to get the job done: a 3-in extension to start, and then a deep 14mm socket to finish turning it out after the 3-in gets backed into the thermostat housing.
For getting that bolt back in, two more hot tips: wrap some 1-in masking tape twice around the 14 mm bolt in the same place it will end up living in the starter housing flange. That helps in two ways; it will help hold the bolt in place in its flange as you get the starter in place, and it will give it a little extra friction as you turn the bolt -enough resistance that your ratchet will turn backward without just spinning the bolt backward. To that point, (second tip) a little finger turn ratchet (which also turns backward more easily) was the other item I'm happy I picked up at HF... The socket and a set of three finger ratchets were each under five bucks in 2023.
Good luck folks!
great video, i've done two using this method. When installing the starter, put the rear bolt in the starter before putting it up there! This will save tons of misery
Thank you for a great instructional video. I was able to R&R my starter and the CRV is back on the road. I do have some recommendations for DYI at home. Laying on the ground with the CRV on jack-stands vs R&R starter on a lift are two different worlds.
1) You will need a quality swivel ratchet to remove the back bolt.
2) Remove the starter body bolt and remove the body clip. The body clip really gets in your way when you access the rear bolt, especially if you have large hands. Then reattach the starter body bolt.
3) I removed the body clip on the new starter and zip tied the wire when I completed the task. I am not a mechanic nor do I play one on TV, so do so at your own risk. I personally needed the space to reach the back bolt.
4) When reinstalling the starter have the back starter bolt on the starter and hold it with your hand as you install. I tried lining up the back bolt blind and almost threw the bolt across the street. Once the stater is in the starter housing attach the front bolt and start the back bolt with your hand.
Excellent step-by-step video. I love that you didn't cut out the times when you struggled getting something off or loose.
Great video. I removed the two 8mm bolts on the actual starter. This partially disassembles the starter giving you a good look at that hard to reach 14 mm bolt.
Underrated comment, this makes that "hidden" bolt much easier to contend with
This will probably saved me a couple! Thanks. Especially helpful when you don't have to return the core!
Best comment ever galo!!!!
That is exactly what i did,thanks to you,what made back bolt removal easy.
Thank you for idea.
Ah, good idea
Thanks so much; I would've never tried this without your video b/c this starter is in such a tight space. I can change my starter in my old Sienna van in about 30 minutes, but this one took forever....but with your help, it saved me a ton of money. Excellent step-by-step video. I love that you didn't cut out the times when you struggled getting something off or loose. It helped me understand how difficult this job was for me being a novice....but my car has been starting great ever since.
I kept looking back at this video to be sure but having the right tools is very important. Took me about 4 hours to get the part off and less than one to put back on. Very helpful video. Use the tools used in the video.
I gotta say, that is great camera work in a very small space. All with your hands in the business. Great video guys.
+Skolanthropy Thanks for checking us out! 1aau.to/m/Shop-1AAuto-c
Thank you for this video it was very helpful.
To bolt the starter back on. I used electrical tape for the long rear bolt to hold it in place instead of trying to find the mounting hole. Once I started the threads then I removed the tape and tightened. I hope that helps someone else.
Thank you 1AAuto and this lady technician for this video, I would not attempt if not for this video.
Now i want to add a few tips for others to make this job easier:
1. After removed plastic front shroud, remove the transmission filter bracket from the chassis and hang it upward with a bungee cord ( do not disconnect the hose from the filter).
2. Loosen the 8mm long bolt on the starter body ( only the one that have the bracket for the electrical harness) slide the bolt out and remove the bracket, (this sheet metal bracket is killing you), then slide the bolt back in and just tight snugly.( don't worry, the starter motor rear plate only crack open 1/16 of an inch when the bolt taken out) Don't forget to take a photo of the bracket for reverse procedure later.
3. Remove the NOX sensor with a 27mm deep socket and 6 in extension.
If you do this 3 things, your job consider half way done.
Because the NOX sensor removed, you can use 14mm deep socket so the head of the bolt stay in the socket and not keep falling out and I didn't have to change to any other socket at all, you can feel and hold the socket with you hand now, you may use the inspection mirror for positive id, the head of the bolt is only 2 in from the back of the starter.
Now, before installation:
1. Remove the the harness bracket and snug fit the long 8mm. Only remove one do not mess with the other ( you put back the bracket after starter motor install completed)
2.Put the long 14mm bolt in its hole with the thread end just a few mm proud of the matting surface of the starter to the fly wheel housing and secure it along the starter body with few round of electrical tape.
3 . After Pos cable connected, not the ignition wire, save it for last. The outer 17mm should go first but loosely , not rigid tight, then cut the tape and start the 14mm a few thread with your finger to making sure it will not cross thread with the wrench. use deep socket so the head of the bolt stay in the socket the whole time,
Last but not least, don't do this around children, the language you spitting out is not suitable to them
I did it in about 2.5 hour, but if i have to do it again on this same model 2007 CRV, I think I can do it in about 1 hour.
It can be done ( from the bottom). Good Luck guys
There are quite a few videos here on R&R starter for CRV but this is the absolute best. I was unable to remove the knock sensor from underneath so I got a 6” extension to attach to my 27 mm socket and apply my ratchet from top. This gives me just enough clearance of the manifold. Thanks Sally and 1A!
Thanks for the video. I followed it step by step. by far the hardest step was removing and reinstalling the top starter bolt. Took me literally 45 min. just trying to install the bolt in uhh bolt hole. After that, everything went on smoothly. Once again, thanks
Thanks so much! Here’s two tips without which I would have failed miserably… 1. I loosened the 8mm starter body bolt enough to allow rotating the wire harnesses anchor out of the way. Without that, the anchor would not clear the thermostat housing. 2. When re-installing, insert the back mounting bolt before lifting the starter into place. It’s easy to hold it there while lifting the starter, and a heckofalot easier than stabbing it in blind later!
Good video, definitely gave me the confidence to try to do this myself.
FWIW, after a 3-hour debacle, I ended up calling it quits eventually on my '08. I live in the Rust Belt, so if you're someone with limited repair experience, no Snap-on box full of tools, and possibly rusted parts, know what you may be in for.
1. Jack up the car, remove the bottom splash shield - no problem. Some of the plastic clips were ruined, but easy to get out with some needle-nose pliers.
2. Remove the bracket - needed a few shots of rust penetrant per fastener, but pretty easy overall.
3. Remove the front mounting bolt - major PITA. Breaking it loose took 10 shots of penetrant and 15 minutes of re-positioning the breaker bar and socket. The threads may have been galled, so using a 3/8" standard ratchet (don't have a long one, or a cheater pipe) took quite literally another 20 minutes to just back that bolt out.
4. After trying unsuccessfully for half an hour to get a 14mm socket on the rear mounting bolt, and dropping it behind the starter twice (which requires a magnet to lift it back up and over a rib in the firewall), I called it quits. Couldn't get the knock sensor wiring harness disconnected from the sensor, and don't have a 27mm (or 1-1/4") open-end wrench to get the sensor out.
After that, I was too irritated to mess around with taking off the intake manifold, and was losing daylight.
Again, I don't have any flex-head, long, or power ratchets, but I imagine they would have made it easier. Laying on my back, neck craned, with no room to work, was not fun. And for the price of the tools I would have needed to buy to make this job more tolerable, I ended up biting the bullet and paying a mechanic.
YMMV.
I don't have any tools, or a lift! I am going to be tipping my mechanics very well if they pull this off!
I hear ya. I won’t even try this one.
I understand what are you saying very well, I myself a retired mechanic. All it takes is one little bolt, nut, or connecting wire that can mess up the job, from easy to a big problem. Nice to hear your story, it reminds me of when I was young.
I agree this is a nightmare for any older car in the rust belt without a hoist and full set of tools.
I usually like to try to fox my CRV 08 myself but we are the middle of winter here in Canadá. And I have very limited time in my schedule.
So im gonna have to pay the $635 that the mechanic is asking for 😞.
The good news is that I have the money since my wife just starting working again.
Anyways I just wanted to vent about the situación :).
Wow.... Impossible task without this video, thanks a lot
Very good video! Iam replacing my heater pipe, serpentine belt, radiator hose, throttle body and the thermostat in my 07 Honda CRV, and decided to watch this video. I wish she would have a video showing the replacing of the heater pipe, by removing the intake manifold and everything else in the way! It need to be done from the top! A really pain on the neck! Again, she is outstanding!! Good job!!
Probably the best mechanic video I have used. Clear instructions on steps and really clear video. Thanks
+Kevin King Thank you! We love empowering our customers and showing how to perform DIY auto repairs with our high-quality auto parts. 1AAuto.com
The tip she gave on the angle to pull the starter out of that tight space, that was the best tip of the video.
Congratulations, you are a really knowledgeable mechanic and strong person.
Thank you and I use your experience to change my starter motor in my Honda CRV 2009. Great help. 10 for you.
This is one of the best tutorial videos I've seen on youtube!!! Thank you so much for making this video!!!
Thank you for your video. I just removed the starter from my CR-V 2007. It took me two hours from start to finish just to remove it. It took me something like one hour just to remove the nasty little bolt located behind the starter. I had no problem to crack it. The problem was the lack of space between the bolt and the oil sensor on the engine block. Even if the sensor is disconnected, it is still there and did not allow the bolt- socket- ratchet to back off enough. My craftman ratchet head is just too thick. Yours is narrower. After an hour, I found a flexible extension for my ratchet/socket in my tool box. It did the job. Now, let's get the new one back on....
Next time, remove the knock sensor with a 27mm socket. Worked great for me.
Thanks for the step by step instructions it really helped. Once I got it off putting the new starter on took about 20 minutes.
+Christian Quinones Thank you for your positive feedback!
u helped me a lot, thank you . I didn't want to disconnect all the manifold and other stuff. great video. keep on doing these. Great job!
I was impressed by the mechanic that did this video she took her time and she pretty much pointed out everything she did I'm getting ready to do my ex-wife's in the morning I'll come back and let you all know if it goes as well as what she went through LOL going to have fun
I dont know what model of CRV this was.... But it is not always as easy as this video makes out...
Iv just replaced my starter on my 2008, Mk3 2.2l i-ctdi
Ended up having to go in from the top, removing throttle body, and various bits attached to the intake manifold (manifold stayed on).
Im not an experienced mechanic, but id say quite capable, and it took me about 6 hours start to finish, figuring out how to dig my way down into it.
Thankfully i am glad i did this myself, i dread to think what the labour costs would of been if i had taken it to a garage to do. My knuckles are not so thankfull though, there is going to be some nice bruises tomorrow!
Awesome video! Remove starter from underneath the car and not from the top and have to remove alot of parts to get to it from the top. The blind feel of the back bolt seems the challenge but video tips helps. Thanks.
Great video. Helped tremendously. Thank you.
Thank you for the meticulous directions !! Helped me Today ! Followed your directions step by step and ours was corroded in place as well. Everything went perfect 👍 and I did it right on the ground
+Rooting tooting Cowboy Thanks for checking us out! 1AAuto.com
Thanks for this great instructional video. I just replaced the starter on my 2009 CRV. It took me about 3 hours to do the job. Over two hours just to take it out. The upper bolt was a PITA to take out. I started with 3/8 socket wrench to loosen this bolt, but the wrench started to hit the sensor as the bolt was coming out. I then switched over to the smaller 1/4 wrench to slowly unscrew the bolt out. Putting the new starter in wasn't that bad.
👍
I lease someone giving a honest time need it to do this job a guest i will need the same time to do my
I am learning so much. Thank you 1A Auto Parts
+Noisy Boy Thank you for the great reply. We love to empower our customers by showing you how-to perform your own auto repairs while installing our high quality auto parts. Have a great day! 1aauto.com
thank you SOOOO much, watched 10 other videos where they pulled intake manifold and all kinds of other things, and you made this job 100% easier!!
+joe watson Thanks for checking us out! 1AAuto.com
I don't know about that. The tight working space makes things so much harder.
I would’ve used a prybar on the starter lighty instead of smacking it with the brass bar, but I guess either way.
Thank you so much for this. You did a fantastic job. I’ll be replacing my son’s tomorrow.
Very well done! Love how you run into "problems." Or is just me ... always the last bolt!
Thank you very much, saved a few hundred dollars. I would recommend others to remove the knock sensor with a 27mm or 1 1/16" socket to give more room.
Wish I had done this. It was a pain threading it off and on by hand because of lack of clearance.
Thank you for this outstanding video. I just completed a removal, rebuild and reinstall all for $25! (sorry, but I did not buy a new starter from your website, just a brush kit) Gotta love TH-cam. I have one recommendation after completing this install for others that may use this method. When reinstalling the starter I had better luck connecting the power cables, then getting the starter almost into its permanent position to be bolted down. If you angle the starter slightly before positioning it, and put the back bolt in the starter first before the easier lower bolt in the front (basically put put the bolt in the back hole on the starter and let it dangle there while you position it in its permanent spot, it is much easier than trying to feel for the hole with your hands and trying to get the bolt in blind. I have larger hands and found that to be impossible. If I had to do this job again, I would use this bottom up method (instead of the top down manifold removal method) for sure, despite losing a little skin on my knuckles. Good luck. Oh, and one more thing, you will need a long 14mm socket for the back bolt. If you use a long socket, you can get around removing the knock sensor.
+Robert Cunningham Thank you! We love empowering our customers and showing how to perform DIY auto repairs with our high-quality auto parts. 1AAuto.com
Thanks for posting. Got my starter pulled and replaced with a new one today. That blind bolt was a pain in the shorts. Had to get my daughter with small hands to spin it out.
Took me 4 hours to to this job & reinstalling that rear bolt was absolutely insane , It was so difficult I actually left it partially loose
Thank you. Great video! Very helpful
Best video, life saver!! Exactly what I needed to get me through the r and r!!! Thank you thank you!!!!!!
+Chris Hecht Thank you! We love empowering our customers and showing how to perform DIY auto repairs with our high-quality auto parts. 1aau.to/m/Shop-1AAuto-c
Thank You for producing a great video. I got to the rear bolt and tried a different idea which he wanted me to take the exhaust manifold and etc
Your way was exceedingly easier and less likely to cause more issues - obv’
Thanks again!
+charlie williams Thanks for the feedback!
After watching this video, I will gladly pay $425 to have this done by a professional. I would be all cut up, and do with wrong, end up sweating and crying, and paying someone else anyway. Thank you for proving what a great mechanic you are. A very professional video.
+Karen Russell Thank you.
Karen Russell come on it’s not that hard. I’m impressed it was so easy. Especially getting to that top bolt I imagined it would be a nightmare at first.
Karen Russell
Wimp
Well Karen; this is definitely a much more intricate job than doing your pedicure. That is for sure.
😆 Obviously I kid. What is life without some camaraderie amongst the opposite sexes? The young woman in the video performed an exempliary job and as a shop owner, I wouldn't hesitate to hire her.
Next time it breaks bring it to me I will gladly take er money,for a 1/2 HOUR JOB
thx u very much..saved me 450$
+SlayerHawkX Thank you! We love empowering our customers and showing how to perform DIY auto repairs with our high-quality auto parts. 1aau.to/m/Shop-1AAuto-c
thankyou for the video it was an absolute help would not have been able to get it off with out your video
Prepare not to have fun. This will make a preacher cuss & I like to work on cars.
Thanks for the video!
On my 08 the back bolt was a 15 socket not a 14.
Was worth taking out knock sensor. 27mm very few turns it's out. Now I can fit an air ratchet for top bolt.
hands down, I could not have done this without removing the knock sensor. Then it was a matter of getting the right stack height (in my case, a 3/8 drive 14mm deep socket with a 1/2 adapter, and my tightest breaker bar with no play at the head. It took a number of tries to get the angle right on the 12 point socket so i could put just the socket on the nut and then slip the breaker bar in. An air ratchet would have been awesome, too, but none handy... Thanks, John!
27mm or 1 1/16 socket
Just finished doing this job on the wife's CRV. It sucks! But 1A Auto did make it easier. I don't think I could have done it without them. BTW, it's still not easy. Took me about an hour to figure out how to get the back bolt in, but once I got a couple threads started, the rest was cake.
+Nitro Junkie Thank you! We love empowering our customers and showing how to perform DIY auto repairs with our high-quality auto parts. 1AAuto.com
You helped me wiith my 2013 , Tenacity!!!
Thanks For this video, I did my self
Great job you do professional work. Thanks
+richard fabrizio Thanks for checking us out! 1aau.to/m/Shop-1AAuto-c
Damn it's nice to see how a starter replacement job is done in real life. Not like most video's that show the best case scenario .
Ive done this job on same year accord did mine from the top… more parts to take off but seems alot better than doing it from underneath especially if you don’t have a lift
I want to start by saying thanks for the great video.
I usually like to try to fix my CRV 08 myself but we are in the middle of winter here in Canadá and it looks like I need to be laying down on the ground for long time strugling with rusty bolts plus I have very limited time in my schedule.
So im gonna have to pay the $635 that the mechanic is asking for 😞.
The good news is that Im gonna be able to afford it since my wife just starting working again.
Anyways I just wanted to vent about the situatión :).
Nice job on the R&R along with a concise commentary, but maybe putting on some witness marks on the starter and housing would help in the re-installation. You did a Master Class, thank you.
+Robert Klein Thanks for checking us out! 1aau.to/m/Shop-1AAuto-c
This might work for some people, especially if u have a lift, but I couldn't do it from underneath propped up on stands.
It is more time consuming and perhaps a bit more technical, but going in from the top was MUCH easier.
Add in taking off the knock sensor for room. Wrench size for that. Makes accessing the back bolt easier.
For reinstall, what if it doesn't for flush against the engine? Just wiggle it around? Are the gears not aligned?
Also for the back bolt, put into the starter hole before putting starter in. Then it's lined up and easier.
I just did this job in 2 hours. Highly recommended going both from the bottom and the top. I didn’t realize the back starter bolt was that long and probably would have had it done sooner going just bottom but can’t complain compared to the other people struggling.
+Elusive Thanks for the feedback!
Great video - thank you! Space is very limited to get on that top bolt. I used a 14 mm deep well socket and 3/8 ratchet. Car on ramps - laying under the car with feet facing rear of vehicle - slide the socket on just far enough to get the ratchet on clear of the knock sensor. Using right hand over the top of the starter, hold the socket in that position otherwise it will slide further on the bolt and you won't be able to get the ratchet engaged. Break the bolt loose enough that it can be turned by hand. You'll likely not be able to back the bolt all the way out using the ratchet because you'll run into the knock sensor. Once the bolt is loose, remote the ratchet and turn the socket by hand until it comes out. Honestly, if I were doing it again, I'd probably just remove the knock sensor to create more space for the socket and ratchet. It's 27 mm. Going back in - get the starter back up in the general area and then place the top bolt in the starter hole and hold it there while you position the starter fully into place. Being careful not to let that top bolt fall out, start the bottom bolt and bring it snug enough so the starter will only move slightly for you to align the top bolt. Once the top bolt is started by hand, place the deep well socket back on it (I found it was easier to turn the bolt by hand with a socket on it) and tighten as much as possible to ensure you have it started straight. Again, hold it in place while getting the ratchet on it and tighten it down.
+DJ York Thanks for checking us out! 1aau.to/m/Shop-1AAuto-c
Good comments. Yes, removing the knock sensor with a 27mm (or 1 1/16 inch ) socket makes in easier to access the back bolt.
Very helpful thanks
So just need to say, she is a very talented mechanic!! After several hours of busting knuckles and expanding my foul language inventory, I finally got the starter removed. The back bolt is amazingly difficult to reach, there is little to no room, even if you have small hands. I'm sure working from floor doesn't help the matter. THEN putting the new starter back in is accompanied with its own challenges. At no point can you actually view the rear bolt, so trying to get it started, then fit any type of socket on it requires a very high level of skill. I finally got it done tonight, but my gosh, what an adventure. If I were to do it again, I would spend the money on a 27mm socket to remove the knock sensor for a little extra wiggle room. Hats off to this young lady, made it look like a breeze.
Another perfect example why I would rather shoot my toe off of my foot, rather than work on Honda CRV.
Thank you, now I'll get to it on my car.
Hey just finished in a snap thanks to you.
I really appreciate your help👍💥
One more tip for those who can't reach or unscrew the long 14mm bolt. Just unscrew the 2 long 8mm bolts from the starter. Then take the back lid and the rotor together with magnet out of the starter. That long bolt will be wisible and easy to unscrew.
"If we had 'em I'd remove 'em". This is the most accurate video on youtube. All those push pins are missing from mine, too.
Thanks for checking us out. Shop here for high quality auto parts: 1aau.to/m/Shop-1AAuto-c +giantpune
Excellent Video. Made everything look so easy. Did the underneath method by jack stands and boy is it tight in there. Got the back bolt out but had a lot of trouble getting it back in on the reinstall.
Tip that worked for me: Before reinstalling the new starter, wrap a thin layer or two of paper around the back bolt threads and insert that back bolt in the unthreaded starter hole with just a quarter inch sticking out. It should be tight enough to hold the bolt wrestling the new starter into position but loose enough to push forward with the threads being free to get your bolt started. Then when you push/turn the bolt forward with your socket, it's already pre-positioned. Good luck and God bless.
+Paul Zarsky Thank you! We love empowering our customers and showing how to perform DIY auto repairs with our high-quality auto parts. 1AAuto.com
Did this replacement yesterday, no issue following your guidance in the replacement. however after taking it up the road a few miles after, the check engine light came on. Haven't checked the codes yet, but any idea what it might be?
Great video! Thanks!
+Mike Woods Thanks for checking us out and taking the time to comment. 1aauto.com
i like to say thank you ... great video
Replaced the starter successfully, took about 2.5 hours.
Clips are a pain
Recommend removing the 27mm knock sensor to give you more room
I used a 1/4 ratchet to remove the back bolt, and I initially extended to break the bolt lose.
1 1/16 in socket can substitute for 27mm
I changed it w/ my brother it was pure hell. 4 hrs
Best video I've seen. Freaked watching videos removing intake and all above starter. Yikes. Extra work and expense. Thank you! Just one question - anti-sieze compound a good idea?
Молодец 👍
Thanks, that was really helpful, at least to prove that this can be done. I had to use 14mm sockets of different depths in order to unscrew that back bolt (6:07) , otherwise could not get the ratchet off the socket.
+Arc Shinus Thanks for checking us out!
Wish I had thought of that. I had to thread off and on by hand once broke loose because of lack of ratchet clearance.
BTW, not sure if you are using the vehicle for just demo purposes to replace parts but it appears the transmission inline filter in the front needs to be replaced. they should never get that corroded. thats a sign it's probably original. Thanks for the video.. very detailed.
Good video. Good lord, I'm glad I live in the south. If I had to deal with all that rust, I'd go insane lol.
+Jedi Luke 22 Thanks for checking us out! 1aau.to/m/Shop-1AAuto-c
Very good job! Not an easy one
Thank you greatly appreciate your help
Nice job! You sure picked a tough one to demonstrate on with all that road salt and rust underneath. Come out here to West Texas. Lol hotter but no beating starters off
+Rue ridge Thank you! We love empowering our customers and showing how to perform DIY auto repairs with our high-quality auto parts. Showing some of the harder and more difficult examples helps those who live in not so hot, snowy climate how they can do this too, plus we are located in one of those snowy areas so we have an abundance of rust and salt corrosion always adding more "fun" into the repair! 1AAuto.com
Super!!! крутая тетка!
+Alex Hisense Thanks for checking us out! 1aau.to/m/Shop-1AAuto-c
Yes this is how I did mine, much easier that going from top 😎😎😎
Very impressive.
+Tri Do Thank you for the great reply. We love to empower our customers by showing you how-to perform your own auto repairs while installing our high quality auto parts. Have a great day! 1aauto.com
I’ve been on this for 4 hours literally a simple job but Honda clipped every part of the harness to everything n made this the tightest most difficult fit ever, I’m selling this car after this. F Honda. I swear they built the car around the starter... I want to die
+Wilson Woodrow Thanks for the feedback!
doing one hell of a job this one has got aircon and a dip stick in the way, to contend with bottom bolt 17mm had to remove dip stick as it runs behind the starter never again ?
( good video thank you ) water pipe above starter was leaking and killed the starter
I wish you guys can do a starter replacement video for a 2010 Honda Pilot
Great video, though myself having big hands and arms. Is really hard to reach in this space is really difficult.. i can barely get two fingers back there let alone two hands to remove it. Lol. Great overall video.
Yes removing two 8mm long screws holding starter housing works great but you ruin the starter so if you’re buying a starter that has a core, this is not the way to go. When putting the starter back in it, make sure you put the battery cables on and after you put it back in its mounting place getting that rear bolt is really hard. You have to put your hand up and over the starter and feel for the hole and then push the bolt towards the hole with your other hand. The only way I could get a socket on It was putting a 14mm 3/8 long socket on the bolt head then coming in with my ratchet. I didn’t have to remove the knock sensor, I used a long screwdriver to push the button on the ratchet in to get the ratchet off, and then the socket.
I followed the video. I did it on ramps, under the car feet toward the rear hatch. Removed the knock sensor. A flex head 3/8 ratchet would have made it easier for the top starter bolt. Thanks!
While I had the starter removed, I tested the system with a multimeter. Negative on the block, positive on the plug for the solenoid. Got 12 ish volts when the key was turned to start. So I went ahead and installed a new starter even though my 07 original tested ok, but would fail to crank intermittently. I hope this is the fix.
Just curious since this was two years ago if it was in fact the fix? I have an intermittent no crank issue as well. The first time it happened several months ago and eventually after many attempts started for no apparent reason. Then just this week it did it again. Once again - after many turns of the key and almost giving up and calling a tow, it randomly cranked right over and started.
@@djyork5453 I’m having the same issue for the last few months and when tested at auto zone, they tell me the starter is good
What did you end up doing?
Quick question how did you even get your hand to go that deep into the abyss of the Honda starter
Hello Karen : how long do you think it took to remove and install the starter to beginnen to the end ? i do not have a lift to raise the car and i just wonder if I should take off intake manifold to get into starter. Thank you great video
This was the ONLY video I found that actually showed you how to do this totally from the underside of the vehicle! In all the other videos these folks are taking off the throttle body, intake manifolds and shit...lots of extra unnecessary work!
+Milwaukee Muscle Thanks for checking us out! 1AAuto.com
Great video. Is three hours a fair estimate for this job?
thank you
So you didn’t have to remove the knock sensor ??? Ty for the video
Great vid. Went step by step and was able to successfully change out the starter. Removing that top bolt was very painful but in the end it all worked out. Thanks for great instructions!!!
+Jack Sorroche Thank you for the great reply. We love to empower our customers by showing you how-to perform your own auto repairs while installing our high quality auto parts. Have a great day! 1aauto.com
You're kidding me, right? You went to ALL that trouble to remove the stupid starter, then you put the OLD one back in? NEVER! Even if it didn't need a new starter, I would have replaced it. Of course you know 2 weeks down the road, this will be back for a starter motor. LOL! Thanks for this. It looks like my son's 2011 CR-V needs a new starter. I'll be taking it to my mechanic. This looks like as much fun as it was doing the starter on my 1977 Grand Prix 400. I think I invented a few new swear words with that one!
+Steve Fick Thanks for checking us out! 1aau.to/m/Shop-1AAuto-c
This video made it look wayyy too easy. Took me 10 hours to get it out
about 5 hours. almost gave up. 😢
How long did it really take to remove to top bolt?
I pulled out my starter on top but remove the air cleaner box,hoses, intake manifold, a lot of parts, once I removed everything I have more space to remove the old starter and it’s easier as well.
Thanks for watching our video! +relicsun
Just ordered this starter for my son, he's a student at UofHawaii. I'm going out there to help him, do you have a list of required tools and torque settings (so I am don't have to bring out my entire kit of tools)? Thanks in advance! Adam