Chris Sharma, World's First 5.15
ฝัง
- เผยแพร่เมื่อ 10 พ.ค. 2012
- In July, 2001, Chris Sharma made the first ascent of Realization (AKA Biographie), the world's first confirmed 5.15 (9a+), in Ceuse, France. This short film shows the process he went through trying the route for many weeks over several trips, and the actual footage of the historic first ascent. Excerpted from the film Dosage Volume 1. Rent or Download here: reelrocktour.com/collections/...
- กีฬา
Sharma was the Ondra of my generation.
Sharma's the GOAT
but way steezier
@@antoniocesardecarvalhovian5670 steez out of this world
No one has Sharma's style
Ondra is the Sharma of this generation
Anyone else here after seeing Margo Hayes send this? Insane climb.
Yup! After seeing Margo Hayes! I've never rock climbed and I have no idea how I got to these vids! 😆
@@saloninegi7062 hahaha the same
Yes, I was curious about how different style they have. And she looked so smooth, like a ballet. Compared to powerful Chris's movements
@@matonni7
Chris is a very big climber compared to the average, at 6" and 80 kilos he was very powerful in the upper body. Margo is much smaller, she can't rely on powering through the movements as she has lower upper body strength being both female (not trying to make a chauvinist statement, women do tend to be relatively weaker in the upper body) and less muscular (more like an average climber). She uses skill, mobility, and a very good control of bodyweight counterbalance to climb. Climbers in general tend to use their legs more than their arms, but Chris was pretty strong and so can pull off those hard pulls better than most.
Also, female climbers in general tend to climb in a smoother manner from what I have seen. They use smoother whole body movements certainly and this is very much a reason for the fluidity. I honestly think women just have better coordination and physical dexterity sometimes watch the best female and male climbers side by side haha. This is also very much the case in sports I have personally trained in, female athletes tended to have more control over their bodies for some reason (especially with martial arts, gymnastics, etc).
Also, this was the first ascent of the face, Chris was basically pioneering it here, Margo has a bit more material to work with (not taking away from her, it is a HUGE achievement, but redpointing is different when you have previous material to work with). But I don't think Chris had the route down to a tee yet, which is why he powers through some moves that might have been achieved with less effort. This is the legacy in climbing, each successive generation takes what you have done and improves upon it!
Styled it. Very impressive.
I love reading these comments and hearing people say this is lame because some people climb without ropes now. It's clear that they saw the 60 minutes special on Honnold(Who is the fucking man and his impact on the sport is huge) and think that they know everything about climbing. Honnold however does a totally different style of climbing. Sharma climbs short powerful sport routes while Honnold climbs big wall routes. Oh and by the way Honnold climbs with a rope all the time for those of you acting like he never does. Honnold would look like a fish out of water on a route like this so don't even say he could solo it.
For those of you who say you could do this then why are there only a handful of climbers in the world who could possibly complete it. I'd like all of you to be able to see a close of of those holds which all you haters probably wouldn't even be able to use if this went from overhung to slab.
not so. honnold climbs everything, and he uses a rope all the time. its true that he cranks 5.10 and 5.11 moves unroped and way off the deck, but nobody, not even honnold free solos 5.13 or above, unless its a short route that they have ruthlessly wired, like John Bachar's free solo of "father figure" (5.13a) at joshua tree. Still, alex honnold is currently one of the best climbers in the world, and far and away the best free solo climber who has ever lived.
Someone climbs with a rope...
Ron: Honnold soloed the Boulder Problem on FreeRider, which is 5.13a and way way off the deck.
He came to fame by free soloing Moonlight and Half Dome... the crux pitches are 12+ wayyy off the deck. I was thinking even a two year dated comment is crazy cause I think he even soloed The Phoenix and another 13b crack 3 or 4 years ago... He also self confesses how bad he is at hard sport climbing which is partly true. Obviously he is in the upper section of strong men and women, but compared to other top athletes his sport and boulder abilities are low.
Anywho, not a troll just a stat plugger obsessed with rock wrastlin!
@@Wazoodles He recently sent 9a (5.14d) which isn't too bad for sport climbing. If that's all he'd ever done, we'd never have heard of him of course (there are a few weekend warriors who've climbed 9a) but yeah, his soloing sets him apart.
okay, so many people that comment on climbing vids are uneducated. this was the hardest route in the world at the time, there was no way he was going to free solo it. actually no one in the world could probably free solo this, for sure not honnold. come on guys dont be judgemental with your comments if you have no idea what your talking about.
thank you nick you are absolutely right
This climb is so fucking tough that NO ONE will ever solo it (Alex or otherwise), given that there has to be a certain comfort level on a climb to free solo it. That level of comfort will never happen on a climb this hard.
Honnold hasn't even climbed 5.15a (nor 5.14d yet... though he's trying currently)
Nick Smith. I am one of those people that don’t know what I am talking about, if you climb a 5.15 and use a rope does it count?
@@Smokey66s Absolutely. Almost all sport climbing done on these incredibly incredibly hard routes is done with a rope for safety. Lead climbing just lets you do the routes without dying. People only free solo something if its way way below their capability so that way they feel super comfortable and know they can do the moves. Something like this where its just super desperate climbing and every hold is a struggle will most likely never be free solo climbed.
man that is SICK. You watch how strenuous every move is, then see how overhanging the line is...need superhuman strength and flawless technique just to stick to the rock anywhere on that wall to piece together dozens of desperate moves like that is something only a handful of people in the world can do. Hats off, chris
Nothing compared to the 5.16 my parents had to climb everyday on their way to school
dead lolol
Both ways, in the snow
@@BaconFrisbeeafter a 15 mile hike
His rest holds are what the rest of us call "shitty two-finger pockets."
This is so 90s its dope.
* early 2000s *
@@nicklozica8914 except literally not at all but ok.
@@circa2008 2001 is not early 2000s?
obviously in early 2000’s but in that bleed over zone. nostalgia of 90’s
This soundtrack compliments the footage perfectly imo
95% of the viewers wouldnt be able to get 5ft up this wall. Respect
Jokes on you, I could probably maybe get 6 feet off the ground. If the planets align.
Nah.99.9%
The first 3 meters make a V11/12 so much less than 5% would get there!
@@matroupsup3328 right this is insane i live near smith rock that has alot of cool spots and for many different levels
Honestly I doubt most people could even get there feet off the ground on the first move
I really like how this is filmed. It is 100% about the climbing. It's not about his relationship with his girlfriend, or some video editor thinking he's slick with a million cuts and wacky angles. It just shows him climbing the route. Sharma's climbing speaks for itself. I wish they were all this simple.
14:26 : We lighting that bong tonight and celebrating boys!!!!
This video made me cry it was so inspirational. I love the part where all his friends were like "yeah man" and then when he got it I got chills. I love climbing and climbers. Life is so much better with it. Thanks Chris. Love you man!
When he climbs and look totally chill with the reggae song in the background is so cool to watch
Margo Hayes recently became the first woman to send this route (or any 5.15). It is definitely worth checking out her video to see a totally different but equally impressive style mastering this route.
2 other women have sent 5.15b before margo got 15a
Her credit isn't being the first woman to climb 5.15. It's that she was the first woman to climb Biographie. It even says such in the title of her video for the climb.
@@decadeca She’s both. She became the first woman to climb 5.15, at 19 years old, when she sent La Rambla. She’s also the first woman to complete Biographe. This info is all readily available with a google search.
Youth is an awesome thing.I completed many 12d-13c projects many years ago and this is wayyy out of my league,insane route just looks like one sick boulder problem after another. Go for it Chris,inspiring climbing. My tendons in my forearm hurt just watching him on this
What a time capsule. Perfectly preserved.
I have no words to describe what this guy has done.
Greatness. And living now, I can cue my computer and watch the best climber in the world attach himself to a wall and conquer it with some of the most outrageous moves ever seen. And we get to witness it now, anytime we want, and consider our own tries at greatness. Some young kid is seeing Chris do this and is thinking to himself "... someday....someday."
"By the power of TH-cam I will ascend this wall"
- HeGuy 2021
So it is basically a very hard Lead wall, then followed, without a break, a superhard Boulder problem (more than just 2-3 moves), then followed by a semi-hard Lead wall on top of that. I can't imagine hard much strain tendons and muscles must take at that Boulder section. Superb effort.
barath4545 im kinda new to all this..can you explain why the parts are called boulder problem and lead? I really wanna know
14:00 through 14:06 with that pinch hold I was all WHAT A BAD ASS!!!! So happy for you Chris!
@Layne Trevor Why would you want to hack your gfs instagram password?
@@lilia3944
It's just phishing aimed at insecure guys with below average intelligence haha
Instablaster...
omfg just watched again like 3 times in a row...truly inspiring..all that insane hard climbing to do Those moves at the end just completely sick
Big up to climbXmedia! It was the original and best source of climbing footage ever. Will never be equaled.
what a stunning route! so technically precise. love it!
so apparently, all he needed was some longer hair...
hes gotten stronger and smarter every year
@@illduitmyself
Yes, It's called the Samson effect. He draws his strength solely from his hair. That's just science!
ngl his voice is so much more different from what I imagined it would be like, never heard him speak in any of the clips I've seen of him till this one
Chris and Adam are just animals on the wall. Love seeing they do these crazy hard routes.
this is the pure essence of climbing, goosebumps every time
Chris Sharma is too good.
Jesus, its been years since ive seen anything new out of bigupproductions channel. Nice to know you guys are still alive :D. Keep em comming even if they are old classics
It's been a few years since. But it's my first time watching this. Ty. Ty
Ty ty
Wow...Awesome Climb!...I can't tell you how fun that was to watch!
That scream he lets out when he makes the move to the Hueco and he knows he's got the route in the bag is epic!!! This video never ceases to motivate me to climb harder
my fingers hurt when I watch this
Simply a great movie to show what is possible. Well done!
he looks so young.
Wow!!!! What a video!!!
Congratulations
5.15 are like miles compared to feet when climbing 5.10's
one of the best videos on youtube.
Chris Sharma is a guru, Alex Honnold is amazing (or amazingly crazy), but the strongest climber nowadays is definitely Adam Ondra: he sent the first two 5.15c in the world, one of them (La Dura Dura) being a project Chris has been working on for the past 5 years, Adam comes to Spain, trains with Chris, goes to Norway, climbs the first 5.15c, goes back to Spain, sends the first ascent of La Dura Dura ... I mean, he is just THE STRONGEST now...
I agree, although Ondra's attitude sometimes miffs me. Sometimes he comes across as entitled and impatient. Can't deny his amazing accomplishments, dude is a monster.
Awesome climb... Congrats to the lad. Anyone no what the music is, was getting my skank on!
C'mon Chris! This is iconic footage!
gran video!! thank you very much
Incredible route. We feel for him! :D
Awesome to watch it! Cheers! ;)
Not sure if anyone else ever thinks about this stuff but the route breakdown goes:
15 moves to first rest
20 moves to second rest
20 moves to third rest (end of hard climbing)
This route looks amazing.
Casually skips to clips because he's Chris sharma
Unbelievable that he never broke the 9B/+ barrier, he was so ahead of everyone until Adam....
your spelling and understanding of the climbing world are both outstanding.
Here after listening to the podcast of Alex honnold interviewing Chris sharma about this climb. But to see Chris do it is intense!!!
nice video = nice performance, and trustable .. love it and all the music inside this realization. Thanks for sharing :-)
Not the only one, I enjoyed it as well. Even as a non climber I can tell he put everything into that section to make it. Super cool watch.
Good thing about falls in this climb is the fact that it's an overhang.
I remember reading an article in Rock and Ice about climbing photographers. They have to come up with some resourceful, elaborate rigs to capture these moments! They tend to be climbers themselves, as well.
Fantastic! Now please post Sharma on Jumbo Love!!!
Man, I have done a 5.10a which I thought was hard, this must have been painful to endure. Awesome climb!
back in 2023. Makes my palms sweaty
simply great..perfect technique..Kudos
Crazy stamina and power and concentration. Time flies hey Chris?
8:40 "Om Mani Padme Hum" Buddhist chant
thank god somebody deciphered it, i played it over and over trying to figure out what the fuck he was saying.
@@spanktheplum exactly! same thing just for me :D I was like hold up - is he reciting mantras up there?
Kudos to Chris and the cameraman
Most epic climbing video of all times
Alex Huber, World's First 5.15, "Open Air" 1996.
akseli9 retroactively first 5.15
yes. thank you.
That's so true, it makes my fingers hurt.
Thank you very muth. :)
great soundtrack.
amazing!
smokin a jah jah watching this ! 👊🏻🔥
I freaking love that guy, he amazes me *_*
I think ppl are getting bitchy about the music lol. Im sure Sharma would approve lmao
Anyone know the songs?
Jah jah city by Caplton
Sizzla & Capleton - Jah Jah City
Ticklah & Rob Symeonn - Wicked A Go Dub It
Horace Andy - Do You Love My music
Still a great watch
Look at the shoes he was wearing too, makes it look even stronger
what a humble, chilled and down to earth guy! some climbers have the biggest egos....nice to see he is not one of them.
super video e musica estrema , jah jah bless yuh !
Whelp, watching this guy climb is mesmerizing.
big up man!
Dont forgert Alex Huber´s 9a "Open Air" in Schleierwasserfall (Austria). He did it 1996 - Adam Ondra did the second go in 2008! And he graded it up to 9a+
So Alex Huber was the first who climbed 9a+ , if you take it seriously ;)
Freeriderau2 Alex Huber was crazy strong, he climbed a Route in Karlstein called „el gringo“ 8b in 1992 and I think the route still hasn’t been repeated
@@johannwinkler2183 He was, and still is superstrong! Where exactly is the Karlstein? Bist auch aus Österreich?
Freeriderau2 Karlstein ist in Bad reichenhall (Süd-Bayern) ist ein super klettergebiet. Komm aus Süd-Bayern
@@johannwinkler2183 Na dann bist ja fast a Nachbar von den Huberbuam ;) Ich bin aus Niederösterreich - wenn ich mal wieder in deiner Gegend bin schau ich mal beim Karlstein vorbei! Watzmann-Ost steht eh auch noch auf meiner Liste ;)
@@johannwinkler2183 Is aber ned des Wandl oder? de.wikipedia.org/wiki/M%C3%BCllnerberg#/media/Datei:REI_M%C3%BCllnerhorn_05.jpg
para mi el mejor y mas carismatico escalador !!!!!me motivo constantemente para seguir scalando cada dia mas fuerte
I bow to the camera man.
just to put in perspective, there is grading system in rock climbing for difficulty, ranging from 5.1 to 5.15b, usually the easiest route you will see in a rock climbing gym is 5.5 (my 70 year old in laws with no experience can do it). El Captain that Alex Honnold did is 5.13a, which is pretty hard for most people, but this route right here, is 5.15a or 5.15b, meaning there are 5.13c, 5.13d, 5.14a, 5.14b, 5.14c, 5.14d levels in between the two. Even Alex Honnold mentioned on Joe Rogan podcast, that certain routes and difficulty levels have to be done with a route, it's impossible to not fall
It's amazing ascent. Notice: First 9a+ or 5.15a made Alex Huber at Austria’s Schleier Wasserfall, it's called Open Air.
it was downgraded to 14d
I am not sure. According for example to this article: climbingnarc.com/2008/11/adam-ondra-repeats-worlds-first-515-open-air/
And as you can see on 8a.nu - Open Air is also 9a+.
If you have more information let me know, please.
+Kanyon It was originally graded 5.14d by Alex Huber and then UPgraded to 5.15 by Adam Ondra who did the first repetition of Open Air in 2008!
Retroactively 5.15
Retroactively 5.15
I'm over here struggling to climb a 5.8+...
+UncertainTube yes, infect, they can. who knew?!?! girls can do things that boys can omg!!
triggered feminist alert!
oh you know, a few girls like Ashima just try climbing....
Thanks!!!!! I thought so too!!!
Alex Huber climbed that grade 5 years earlier (Open Air - Schleierwasserfall).
I think Chris Sharma is my spirit animal.
Good job man
Impresionante, inspirador !
never thought I'd see the day...
That pinch hold at 14:05ish is absoluteltly insane.
Chris no solo es de la vieja escuela, sino que nos demuestra que también es de la nueva.
outstanding climber!!! The first sound is great! Douglass & Clare de Graw - Wicked a Go Dub It (feat. Rob Symeonn) Jah Bless!
You should make the url in the description a link. That level of climbing is insane.
Adam Ondra will be long gone one day and Sharma will still be out there chilling and climb the hardest stuff.
Good gosh I didn’t notice it was him till I heard him talk
The first song is from "Douglass and degraw feat. Rob Symeonn" and is called "Wicked a go dub it". I just found it on an album called Roots combination. Nice vibe :)
Respect to you fellow climber those foot and hand holds are so small..
THAT's Chris Sharma?? Thank goodness he shaved!!!
Still gotta love how he climbs though... it's just beautiful
Mad respek for the collar'd polo on a 5.15
wow - that is impressive if not impossible - see to believe
jesus that was intense.