man that is SICK. You watch how strenuous every move is, then see how overhanging the line is...need superhuman strength and flawless technique just to stick to the rock anywhere on that wall to piece together dozens of desperate moves like that is something only a handful of people in the world can do. Hats off, chris
okay, so many people that comment on climbing vids are uneducated. this was the hardest route in the world at the time, there was no way he was going to free solo it. actually no one in the world could probably free solo this, for sure not honnold. come on guys dont be judgemental with your comments if you have no idea what your talking about.
This climb is so fucking tough that NO ONE will ever solo it (Alex or otherwise), given that there has to be a certain comfort level on a climb to free solo it. That level of comfort will never happen on a climb this hard.
@@Smokey66s Absolutely. Almost all sport climbing done on these incredibly incredibly hard routes is done with a rope for safety. Lead climbing just lets you do the routes without dying. People only free solo something if its way way below their capability so that way they feel super comfortable and know they can do the moves. Something like this where its just super desperate climbing and every hold is a struggle will most likely never be free solo climbed.
@@matonni7 Chris is a very big climber compared to the average, at 6" and 80 kilos he was very powerful in the upper body. Margo is much smaller, she can't rely on powering through the movements as she has lower upper body strength being both female (not trying to make a chauvinist statement, women do tend to be relatively weaker in the upper body) and less muscular (more like an average climber). She uses skill, mobility, and a very good control of bodyweight counterbalance to climb. Climbers in general tend to use their legs more than their arms, but Chris was pretty strong and so can pull off those hard pulls better than most. Also, female climbers in general tend to climb in a smoother manner from what I have seen. They use smoother whole body movements certainly and this is very much a reason for the fluidity. I honestly think women just have better coordination and physical dexterity sometimes watch the best female and male climbers side by side haha. This is also very much the case in sports I have personally trained in, female athletes tended to have more control over their bodies for some reason (especially with martial arts, gymnastics, etc). Also, this was the first ascent of the face, Chris was basically pioneering it here, Margo has a bit more material to work with (not taking away from her, it is a HUGE achievement, but redpointing is different when you have previous material to work with). But I don't think Chris had the route down to a tee yet, which is why he powers through some moves that might have been achieved with less effort. This is the legacy in climbing, each successive generation takes what you have done and improves upon it!
I love reading these comments and hearing people say this is lame because some people climb without ropes now. It's clear that they saw the 60 minutes special on Honnold(Who is the fucking man and his impact on the sport is huge) and think that they know everything about climbing. Honnold however does a totally different style of climbing. Sharma climbs short powerful sport routes while Honnold climbs big wall routes. Oh and by the way Honnold climbs with a rope all the time for those of you acting like he never does. Honnold would look like a fish out of water on a route like this so don't even say he could solo it. For those of you who say you could do this then why are there only a handful of climbers in the world who could possibly complete it. I'd like all of you to be able to see a close of of those holds which all you haters probably wouldn't even be able to use if this went from overhung to slab.
not so. honnold climbs everything, and he uses a rope all the time. its true that he cranks 5.10 and 5.11 moves unroped and way off the deck, but nobody, not even honnold free solos 5.13 or above, unless its a short route that they have ruthlessly wired, like John Bachar's free solo of "father figure" (5.13a) at joshua tree. Still, alex honnold is currently one of the best climbers in the world, and far and away the best free solo climber who has ever lived.
He came to fame by free soloing Moonlight and Half Dome... the crux pitches are 12+ wayyy off the deck. I was thinking even a two year dated comment is crazy cause I think he even soloed The Phoenix and another 13b crack 3 or 4 years ago... He also self confesses how bad he is at hard sport climbing which is partly true. Obviously he is in the upper section of strong men and women, but compared to other top athletes his sport and boulder abilities are low. Anywho, not a troll just a stat plugger obsessed with rock wrastlin!
@@Wazoodles He recently sent 9a (5.14d) which isn't too bad for sport climbing. If that's all he'd ever done, we'd never have heard of him of course (there are a few weekend warriors who've climbed 9a) but yeah, his soloing sets him apart.
This video made me cry it was so inspirational. I love the part where all his friends were like "yeah man" and then when he got it I got chills. I love climbing and climbers. Life is so much better with it. Thanks Chris. Love you man!
Youth is an awesome thing.I completed many 12d-13c projects many years ago and this is wayyy out of my league,insane route just looks like one sick boulder problem after another. Go for it Chris,inspiring climbing. My tendons in my forearm hurt just watching him on this
Margo Hayes recently became the first woman to send this route (or any 5.15). It is definitely worth checking out her video to see a totally different but equally impressive style mastering this route.
Her credit isn't being the first woman to climb 5.15. It's that she was the first woman to climb Biographie. It even says such in the title of her video for the climb.
@@decadeca She’s both. She became the first woman to climb 5.15, at 19 years old, when she sent La Rambla. She’s also the first woman to complete Biographe. This info is all readily available with a google search.
I really like how this is filmed. It is 100% about the climbing. It's not about his relationship with his girlfriend, or some video editor thinking he's slick with a million cuts and wacky angles. It just shows him climbing the route. Sharma's climbing speaks for itself. I wish they were all this simple.
Greatness. And living now, I can cue my computer and watch the best climber in the world attach himself to a wall and conquer it with some of the most outrageous moves ever seen. And we get to witness it now, anytime we want, and consider our own tries at greatness. Some young kid is seeing Chris do this and is thinking to himself "... someday....someday."
So it is basically a very hard Lead wall, then followed, without a break, a superhard Boulder problem (more than just 2-3 moves), then followed by a semi-hard Lead wall on top of that. I can't imagine hard much strain tendons and muscles must take at that Boulder section. Superb effort.
Jesus, its been years since ive seen anything new out of bigupproductions channel. Nice to know you guys are still alive :D. Keep em comming even if they are old classics
That scream he lets out when he makes the move to the Hueco and he knows he's got the route in the bag is epic!!! This video never ceases to motivate me to climb harder
Not sure if anyone else ever thinks about this stuff but the route breakdown goes: 15 moves to first rest 20 moves to second rest 20 moves to third rest (end of hard climbing) This route looks amazing.
Chris Sharma is a guru, Alex Honnold is amazing (or amazingly crazy), but the strongest climber nowadays is definitely Adam Ondra: he sent the first two 5.15c in the world, one of them (La Dura Dura) being a project Chris has been working on for the past 5 years, Adam comes to Spain, trains with Chris, goes to Norway, climbs the first 5.15c, goes back to Spain, sends the first ascent of La Dura Dura ... I mean, he is just THE STRONGEST now...
I agree, although Ondra's attitude sometimes miffs me. Sometimes he comes across as entitled and impatient. Can't deny his amazing accomplishments, dude is a monster.
ngl his voice is so much more different from what I imagined it would be like, never heard him speak in any of the clips I've seen of him till this one
Dont forgert Alex Huber´s 9a "Open Air" in Schleierwasserfall (Austria). He did it 1996 - Adam Ondra did the second go in 2008! And he graded it up to 9a+ So Alex Huber was the first who climbed 9a+ , if you take it seriously ;)
Freeriderau2 Alex Huber was crazy strong, he climbed a Route in Karlstein called „el gringo“ 8b in 1992 and I think the route still hasn’t been repeated
@@johannwinkler2183 Na dann bist ja fast a Nachbar von den Huberbuam ;) Ich bin aus Niederösterreich - wenn ich mal wieder in deiner Gegend bin schau ich mal beim Karlstein vorbei! Watzmann-Ost steht eh auch noch auf meiner Liste ;)
I remember reading an article in Rock and Ice about climbing photographers. They have to come up with some resourceful, elaborate rigs to capture these moments! They tend to be climbers themselves, as well.
When he sends, he "rests" between 12:14 and 13:28, before the crux. But I once heard that he used to rest much more, like 5 or 10 mins... is that true?
It could have happened i think, but the time you rest on a route really depends on your shape at the moment. For me when i send a project after a long time trying it, everything feels perfect so i almost don't need some rest that i needed before. The mental game must play a role as well, if you're not confident in your try then you might to spend more time on a rest in order to get yourself ready.
Some climbing associations at the more popular crags maintain the gear regularly. It's also good practice to examine fixed gear as you're using it, and perhaps choose a different climb if you feel the fixed gear is in poor condition.
It's not about the grade it's about having numbers don't mean shit. Chris dose this because he loves it.just keep climbing. The scariest climb I ever did 5,7 old rotten quarter inch shorty bolts shit rock. Haha numbers Don't mean nothing.
just to put in perspective, there is grading system in rock climbing for difficulty, ranging from 5.1 to 5.15b, usually the easiest route you will see in a rock climbing gym is 5.5 (my 70 year old in laws with no experience can do it). El Captain that Alex Honnold did is 5.13a, which is pretty hard for most people, but this route right here, is 5.15a or 5.15b, meaning there are 5.13c, 5.13d, 5.14a, 5.14b, 5.14c, 5.14d levels in between the two. Even Alex Honnold mentioned on Joe Rogan podcast, that certain routes and difficulty levels have to be done with a route, it's impossible to not fall
The first song is from "Douglass and degraw feat. Rob Symeonn" and is called "Wicked a go dub it". I just found it on an album called Roots combination. Nice vibe :)
Camera guy is roped in at the top of the route. Sometimes they will set up a portaledge or ladder so get the "far out" view. Typically he is dangling from over a roof so he clears more space from the wall. Also, the camera is a little bit deceiving but that route is EXTREMELY overhanging, which means the camera man higher up is war further out from Chris than the camera shows. I mean, just look at the quick draws dangling from gravity.
I'm pretty sure they just do it by repelling down from the top most of the time, although here that would still be difficult because of the constant sloping overhang.
How do the hooks get put in? Descend from the top and drill them in? This is pretty crazy, takes some serious strength to pull your body up and hang with 1 arm, using only a couple fingers.
akseli9 So how secure are those? Do they get replaced or something after a few years? Btw... it says "world's first 5.15" does that mean he also put those anchors he's using?
shogrran On this route, the bolts and the last anchor were installed as soon as 1989 by Jean-Christophe Lafaille, who identified this route as one very interesting and challenging. That's how it usually works. Another extreme example, La Dura Dura (most difficult route ever climbed), fits more to your guess: It's Chris Sharma himself who put the bolts and anchors, and it's him working together with Adam Ondra, who successfully climbed it for the second time (one month after Ondra). Secure? They can last years but are indeed replaced when necessary. It happens that a piton can break or get off. A piton less, of course makes the fall longer and more hazardous, although the rope still holds to the next piton right below.
akseli9 Not always the case. Some people will create a route they haven't climbed yet by simply rappelling down from the top and placing bolts as they go. They test moves and holds as they go down to ensure it is a legit climb. I don't know if that is how this one was set but that is another way of the bolts being set into place.
Kirk Lazarus I figured that had to be one of the ways to create sport routes. Otherwise, routes like this 5.15, that only one or two people in the world can climb successfully, would be a lot harder because they'd have to be placing bolts as they go, which makes it more like trad climbing, if not harder still.
@bigupproductions - I'm a HUGE Sharma fan but what about Alexander Huber's FA of "Open Air" which was rated 9a+ (and this was 5 years before Sharma sent "Realization"). Even Adam Ondra gave it a 9a+ ....so technically, wasn't Huber the first climber to break through the barrier of 5.15??
It's a measure of the difficulty of the route. 5.1 is easiest. 5.15 is hardest. Some of the higher levels are broken up into smaller divisions (eg 5.11a, 5.11b...5.11d because there is a huge difference in difficulty between the higher numbers). There might be 5.0, I'm not sure. 5.5 or 5.6 is what you'll find beginning climbers climb at the rock gym. 5.15c is the hardest anyone has completed so far.
it's the difficulty rating. beginners would climb 5.6 through 5.8 while more experienced climbers would climb 5.9 through 5.11. very experienced climbers would be in the 5.12 or 5.13 range and the best climbers in the world climb 5.14 and up.
back in the day ratings started at 5.0. 5.6 was considered difficult, and 5.9 was as hard as it got. Gear and technique improved and climbers got bolder and 5.10 was added. Harder routes were climbed and 5.10 was divided into a,b,c,d. A 5.10d is way harder than 5.10a. Harder and harder routes were climbed, and 5.11 then 12, then 13 were added. Ever rating 5.10 and above is graded a,b,c or d. I remember how ridiculous 5.12 sounded when it first came out, but the ratings have kept going up. 5.12 or maybe even 5.11 routes are the hardest things that the average joe would look at and consider climbable. 5.13 is absurdly difficult, 5.14 all but impossible and 5.15....jeez. Most experienced climbers look at that stuff and say wtf. FYI the V ratings are for unroped climbs V0, V1 is 5.10, all the way up to V14 or 15 which is like 5.15 or 5.15+
The way I understand it, there's no maximum difficulty, they're only rated relative to each other. So my question is this, who officially decides the difficulty of routes? It can't just be the first person who climbs it, because I could go climb a V4 for the first time and go around telling people it's a V20 or some impossible crap like that.
That's why routes are 'verified' which means another person climbs it and agrees with the rating. Climbs are often repeated or climbed by several people and a consensus confirms the rating. Now-a-days, there are climbing forums (for example mountainproject.com) where climbers can give their insight on different climbs and a fair grade can be agreed on. However, the Hueco scale (V system) is thought to be a tad vague and subjective to some people, so the Fontainebleau grading system (related to the french grading system for sport climbing) is becoming increasingly popular worldwide. Climbers have also discussed the idea of having one, worldwide grading system, so that there is less confusion on grades of climbs.
kalon morgan Good answer. I've thought this myself many times. Certainly in the UK, the guide books are pretty accurate - I climb at around VS / HVS trad, with the occasional E1 thrown in. If I'm in an unfamiliar area, if the guide book says it's HVS, I know it's going to be tough but do-able. Having said that, I've attempted a supposed VS that stumped me, and conversely an E1 that I breezed up. I think grades are allocated provisionally by the first ascender, then revised based upon feedback from other climbers. But what gets me, the first ascent is often by a really good climber. How can someone that often does E7 / E8, for example, tell the difference between an VDiff or a Severe ? They're all a piece of piss to him, But they do seem to get it right 95% of the time ;-)
cashmab Lol yeah, I was kind of exaggerating to make my point clear. But I'd imagine It's far more difficult to verify a route that only one or two climbers in the world can do.
If your climbing something that only a few people in the world can climb, it's pretty easy to verify that its near the established top of the scale yes? Also, your only really rating the climb for the benefit of a small group of people you could probably list by name. Why would you try to lie to them? Your not gonna claim the first 5.15 unless your pretty sure that this small community will support you in your claim over time. You would not try to look like an idiot or a liar. Sometimes the rating of a climb might adjust over time but usually not by much.
Perhaps someone with some good climbing knowledge could help me out with a question I have... How do climbers go about rating high difficulty climbs like this? For example, if this is the first confirmed 5.15 send, then how do they know it's rated a 5.15? Do professionals get together to evaluate it? Or possibly Sharma himself rates it based on his experience? Certain moves and crux's that set the standard? Any insight would be appreciated, thanks! Let's keep this friendly and not typical TH-cam comment trash :/
+Carmen & Dustin Smith climbing grades are very subjective. This climb being the first confirmed 5.15 means that it's been climbed by at least two people, and the grade is agreed upon. Normally a climber will set a new route and give it an initial grade, then the climbing community can climb it and provide some input on what they think the grade is. This is generally how it happens, and is one of the reasons why the same "grade" in different climbing areas can feel different from others (a 5.10a at The Red might feel easier than a 5.10a at J Tree). I'm pretty sure the process goes something like this: Sharma: "I've climbed a lot of 14d's... this feels harder than 14d. Probably 15a". Next climber: "Definitely harder than 14d. 15a it is."
Maybe someone lowered them down, their might be a part where you can walk up or climb up around the other side that easier... im wondering what that different color rock was or why its different...
![Matty Hong Climbs Biographie (9a+ / 5.15a) [A @LT11 Production]](/img/n.gif)
man that is SICK. You watch how strenuous every move is, then see how overhanging the line is...need superhuman strength and flawless technique just to stick to the rock anywhere on that wall to piece together dozens of desperate moves like that is something only a handful of people in the world can do. Hats off, chris
Sharma was the Ondra of my generation.
Sharma's the GOAT
but way steezier
@@antoniocesardecarvalhovian5670 steez out of this world
No one has Sharma's style
Ondra is the Sharma of this generation
okay, so many people that comment on climbing vids are uneducated. this was the hardest route in the world at the time, there was no way he was going to free solo it. actually no one in the world could probably free solo this, for sure not honnold. come on guys dont be judgemental with your comments if you have no idea what your talking about.
thank you nick you are absolutely right
This climb is so fucking tough that NO ONE will ever solo it (Alex or otherwise), given that there has to be a certain comfort level on a climb to free solo it. That level of comfort will never happen on a climb this hard.
Honnold hasn't even climbed 5.15a (nor 5.14d yet... though he's trying currently)
Nick Smith. I am one of those people that don’t know what I am talking about, if you climb a 5.15 and use a rope does it count?
@@Smokey66s Absolutely. Almost all sport climbing done on these incredibly incredibly hard routes is done with a rope for safety. Lead climbing just lets you do the routes without dying. People only free solo something if its way way below their capability so that way they feel super comfortable and know they can do the moves. Something like this where its just super desperate climbing and every hold is a struggle will most likely never be free solo climbed.
Anyone else here after seeing Margo Hayes send this? Insane climb.
Yup! After seeing Margo Hayes! I've never rock climbed and I have no idea how I got to these vids! 😆
@@saloninegi7062 hahaha the same
Yes, I was curious about how different style they have. And she looked so smooth, like a ballet. Compared to powerful Chris's movements
@@matonni7
Chris is a very big climber compared to the average, at 6" and 80 kilos he was very powerful in the upper body. Margo is much smaller, she can't rely on powering through the movements as she has lower upper body strength being both female (not trying to make a chauvinist statement, women do tend to be relatively weaker in the upper body) and less muscular (more like an average climber). She uses skill, mobility, and a very good control of bodyweight counterbalance to climb. Climbers in general tend to use their legs more than their arms, but Chris was pretty strong and so can pull off those hard pulls better than most.
Also, female climbers in general tend to climb in a smoother manner from what I have seen. They use smoother whole body movements certainly and this is very much a reason for the fluidity. I honestly think women just have better coordination and physical dexterity sometimes watch the best female and male climbers side by side haha. This is also very much the case in sports I have personally trained in, female athletes tended to have more control over their bodies for some reason (especially with martial arts, gymnastics, etc).
Also, this was the first ascent of the face, Chris was basically pioneering it here, Margo has a bit more material to work with (not taking away from her, it is a HUGE achievement, but redpointing is different when you have previous material to work with). But I don't think Chris had the route down to a tee yet, which is why he powers through some moves that might have been achieved with less effort. This is the legacy in climbing, each successive generation takes what you have done and improves upon it!
Styled it. Very impressive.
I love reading these comments and hearing people say this is lame because some people climb without ropes now. It's clear that they saw the 60 minutes special on Honnold(Who is the fucking man and his impact on the sport is huge) and think that they know everything about climbing. Honnold however does a totally different style of climbing. Sharma climbs short powerful sport routes while Honnold climbs big wall routes. Oh and by the way Honnold climbs with a rope all the time for those of you acting like he never does. Honnold would look like a fish out of water on a route like this so don't even say he could solo it.
For those of you who say you could do this then why are there only a handful of climbers in the world who could possibly complete it. I'd like all of you to be able to see a close of of those holds which all you haters probably wouldn't even be able to use if this went from overhung to slab.
not so. honnold climbs everything, and he uses a rope all the time. its true that he cranks 5.10 and 5.11 moves unroped and way off the deck, but nobody, not even honnold free solos 5.13 or above, unless its a short route that they have ruthlessly wired, like John Bachar's free solo of "father figure" (5.13a) at joshua tree. Still, alex honnold is currently one of the best climbers in the world, and far and away the best free solo climber who has ever lived.
Someone climbs with a rope...
Ron: Honnold soloed the Boulder Problem on FreeRider, which is 5.13a and way way off the deck.
He came to fame by free soloing Moonlight and Half Dome... the crux pitches are 12+ wayyy off the deck. I was thinking even a two year dated comment is crazy cause I think he even soloed The Phoenix and another 13b crack 3 or 4 years ago... He also self confesses how bad he is at hard sport climbing which is partly true. Obviously he is in the upper section of strong men and women, but compared to other top athletes his sport and boulder abilities are low.
Anywho, not a troll just a stat plugger obsessed with rock wrastlin!
@@Wazoodles He recently sent 9a (5.14d) which isn't too bad for sport climbing. If that's all he'd ever done, we'd never have heard of him of course (there are a few weekend warriors who've climbed 9a) but yeah, his soloing sets him apart.
His rest holds are what the rest of us call "shitty two-finger pockets."
This video made me cry it was so inspirational. I love the part where all his friends were like "yeah man" and then when he got it I got chills. I love climbing and climbers. Life is so much better with it. Thanks Chris. Love you man!
This soundtrack compliments the footage perfectly imo
Youth is an awesome thing.I completed many 12d-13c projects many years ago and this is wayyy out of my league,insane route just looks like one sick boulder problem after another. Go for it Chris,inspiring climbing. My tendons in my forearm hurt just watching him on this
Nothing compared to the 5.16 my parents had to climb everyday on their way to school
dead lolol
Both ways, in the snow
@@BaconFrisbeeafter a 15 mile hike
I'm reading this in 2025. My year started out 🔥
14:26 : We lighting that bong tonight and celebrating boys!!!!
This is so 90s its dope.
* early 2000s *
@@nicklozica8914 except literally not at all but ok.
@@circa2008 2001 is not early 2000s?
obviously in early 2000’s but in that bleed over zone. nostalgia of 90’s
14:00 through 14:06 with that pinch hold I was all WHAT A BAD ASS!!!! So happy for you Chris!
@Layne Trevor Why would you want to hack your gfs instagram password?
@@lilia3944
It's just phishing aimed at insecure guys with below average intelligence haha
Instablaster...
Margo Hayes recently became the first woman to send this route (or any 5.15). It is definitely worth checking out her video to see a totally different but equally impressive style mastering this route.
2 other women have sent 5.15b before margo got 15a
Her credit isn't being the first woman to climb 5.15. It's that she was the first woman to climb Biographie. It even says such in the title of her video for the climb.
@@decadeca She’s both. She became the first woman to climb 5.15, at 19 years old, when she sent La Rambla. She’s also the first woman to complete Biographe. This info is all readily available with a google search.
I really like how this is filmed. It is 100% about the climbing. It's not about his relationship with his girlfriend, or some video editor thinking he's slick with a million cuts and wacky angles. It just shows him climbing the route. Sharma's climbing speaks for itself. I wish they were all this simple.
95% of the viewers wouldnt be able to get 5ft up this wall. Respect
Jokes on you, I could probably maybe get 6 feet off the ground. If the planets align.
Nah.99.9%
The first 3 meters make a V11/12 so much less than 5% would get there!
@@matroupsup3328 right this is insane i live near smith rock that has alot of cool spots and for many different levels
Honestly I doubt most people could even get there feet off the ground on the first move
I have no words to describe what this guy has done.
What a time capsule. Perfectly preserved.
omfg just watched again like 3 times in a row...truly inspiring..all that insane hard climbing to do Those moves at the end just completely sick
Greatness. And living now, I can cue my computer and watch the best climber in the world attach himself to a wall and conquer it with some of the most outrageous moves ever seen. And we get to witness it now, anytime we want, and consider our own tries at greatness. Some young kid is seeing Chris do this and is thinking to himself "... someday....someday."
"By the power of TH-cam I will ascend this wall"
- HeGuy 2021
Big up to climbXmedia! It was the original and best source of climbing footage ever. Will never be equaled.
So it is basically a very hard Lead wall, then followed, without a break, a superhard Boulder problem (more than just 2-3 moves), then followed by a semi-hard Lead wall on top of that. I can't imagine hard much strain tendons and muscles must take at that Boulder section. Superb effort.
barath4545 im kinda new to all this..can you explain why the parts are called boulder problem and lead? I really wanna know
Jesus, its been years since ive seen anything new out of bigupproductions channel. Nice to know you guys are still alive :D. Keep em comming even if they are old classics
best climbing video ever i’ve watched. Sharma with reggae music perfectly matched
Chris and Adam are just animals on the wall. Love seeing they do these crazy hard routes.
this is the pure essence of climbing, goosebumps every time
When he climbs and look totally chill with the reggae song in the background is so cool to watch
It's been a few years since. But it's my first time watching this. Ty. Ty
Ty ty
so apparently, all he needed was some longer hair...
hes gotten stronger and smarter every year
@@illduitmyself
Yes, It's called the Samson effect. He draws his strength solely from his hair. That's just science!
i'm balding and this is the only reason why I won't send Biographie
5.15 are like miles compared to feet when climbing 5.10's
That scream he lets out when he makes the move to the Hueco and he knows he's got the route in the bag is epic!!! This video never ceases to motivate me to climb harder
one of the best videos on youtube.
Simply a great movie to show what is possible. Well done!
what a stunning route! so technically precise. love it!
Not sure if anyone else ever thinks about this stuff but the route breakdown goes:
15 moves to first rest
20 moves to second rest
20 moves to third rest (end of hard climbing)
This route looks amazing.
my fingers hurt when I watch this
Awesome climb... Congrats to the lad. Anyone no what the music is, was getting my skank on!
Wow...Awesome Climb!...I can't tell you how fun that was to watch!
nice video = nice performance, and trustable .. love it and all the music inside this realization. Thanks for sharing :-)
Casually skips to clips because he's Chris sharma
Wow!!!! What a video!!!
Congratulations
Chris Sharma is a guru, Alex Honnold is amazing (or amazingly crazy), but the strongest climber nowadays is definitely Adam Ondra: he sent the first two 5.15c in the world, one of them (La Dura Dura) being a project Chris has been working on for the past 5 years, Adam comes to Spain, trains with Chris, goes to Norway, climbs the first 5.15c, goes back to Spain, sends the first ascent of La Dura Dura ... I mean, he is just THE STRONGEST now...
I agree, although Ondra's attitude sometimes miffs me. Sometimes he comes across as entitled and impatient. Can't deny his amazing accomplishments, dude is a monster.
your spelling and understanding of the climbing world are both outstanding.
Not the only one, I enjoyed it as well. Even as a non climber I can tell he put everything into that section to make it. Super cool watch.
Fantastic! Now please post Sharma on Jumbo Love!!!
Here after listening to the podcast of Alex honnold interviewing Chris sharma about this climb. But to see Chris do it is intense!!!
Man, I have done a 5.10a which I thought was hard, this must have been painful to endure. Awesome climb!
Unbelievable that he never broke the 9B/+ barrier, he was so ahead of everyone until Adam....
ngl his voice is so much more different from what I imagined it would be like, never heard him speak in any of the clips I've seen of him till this one
Good thing about falls in this climb is the fact that it's an overhang.
he looks so young.
Crazy stamina and power and concentration. Time flies hey Chris?
Dont forgert Alex Huber´s 9a "Open Air" in Schleierwasserfall (Austria). He did it 1996 - Adam Ondra did the second go in 2008! And he graded it up to 9a+
So Alex Huber was the first who climbed 9a+ , if you take it seriously ;)
Freeriderau2 Alex Huber was crazy strong, he climbed a Route in Karlstein called „el gringo“ 8b in 1992 and I think the route still hasn’t been repeated
@@johannwinkler2183 He was, and still is superstrong! Where exactly is the Karlstein? Bist auch aus Österreich?
Freeriderau2 Karlstein ist in Bad reichenhall (Süd-Bayern) ist ein super klettergebiet. Komm aus Süd-Bayern
@@johannwinkler2183 Na dann bist ja fast a Nachbar von den Huberbuam ;) Ich bin aus Niederösterreich - wenn ich mal wieder in deiner Gegend bin schau ich mal beim Karlstein vorbei! Watzmann-Ost steht eh auch noch auf meiner Liste ;)
@@johannwinkler2183 Is aber ned des Wandl oder? de.wikipedia.org/wiki/M%C3%BCllnerberg#/media/Datei:REI_M%C3%BCllnerhorn_05.jpg
C'mon Chris! This is iconic footage!
I remember reading an article in Rock and Ice about climbing photographers. They have to come up with some resourceful, elaborate rigs to capture these moments! They tend to be climbers themselves, as well.
8:40 "Om Mani Padme Hum" Buddhist chant
thank god somebody deciphered it, i played it over and over trying to figure out what the fuck he was saying.
@@spanktheplum exactly! same thing just for me :D I was like hold up - is he reciting mantras up there?
Awesome to watch it! Cheers! ;)
You should make the url in the description a link. That level of climbing is insane.
When he sends, he "rests" between 12:14 and 13:28, before the crux. But I once heard that he used to rest much more, like 5 or 10 mins... is that true?
It could have happened i think, but the time you rest on a route really depends on your shape at the moment. For me when i send a project after a long time trying it, everything feels perfect so i almost don't need some rest that i needed before. The mental game must play a role as well, if you're not confident in your try then you might to spend more time on a rest in order to get yourself ready.
gran video!! thank you very much
I'm not a climber but is there a way they check the anchor points from year to year to make sure they are safe?
Some climbing associations at the more popular crags maintain the gear regularly. It's also good practice to examine fixed gear as you're using it, and perhaps choose a different climb if you feel the fixed gear is in poor condition.
From top, but no one does it. More critical.
Most epic climbing video of all times
I have a genuine question. I'm 24, and haven't done climbing but have always wanted to do it. Is it too late for me to start? Am I too old?
At 14:08 youtube stopped to show me an ad about a dog collar that works against fleas...
I just watched this again... at the same spot I got an ad for laundry detergent
I'm over here struggling to climb a 5.8+...
+UncertainTube yes, infect, they can. who knew?!?! girls can do things that boys can omg!!
triggered feminist alert!
oh you know, a few girls like Ashima just try climbing....
It's not about the grade it's about having numbers don't mean shit. Chris dose this because he loves it.just keep climbing. The scariest climb I ever did 5,7 old rotten quarter inch shorty bolts shit rock. Haha numbers Don't mean nothing.
just to put in perspective, there is grading system in rock climbing for difficulty, ranging from 5.1 to 5.15b, usually the easiest route you will see in a rock climbing gym is 5.5 (my 70 year old in laws with no experience can do it). El Captain that Alex Honnold did is 5.13a, which is pretty hard for most people, but this route right here, is 5.15a or 5.15b, meaning there are 5.13c, 5.13d, 5.14a, 5.14b, 5.14c, 5.14d levels in between the two. Even Alex Honnold mentioned on Joe Rogan podcast, that certain routes and difficulty levels have to be done with a route, it's impossible to not fall
Chris Sharma is too good.
Alex Huber climbed that grade 5 years earlier (Open Air - Schleierwasserfall).
simply great..perfect technique..Kudos
The first song is from "Douglass and degraw feat. Rob Symeonn" and is called "Wicked a go dub it". I just found it on an album called Roots combination. Nice vibe :)
back in 2023. Makes my palms sweaty
Camera guy is roped in at the top of the route. Sometimes they will set up a portaledge or ladder so get the "far out" view. Typically he is dangling from over a roof so he clears more space from the wall. Also, the camera is a little bit deceiving but that route is EXTREMELY overhanging, which means the camera man higher up is war further out from Chris than the camera shows. I mean, just look at the quick draws dangling from gravity.
what a humble, chilled and down to earth guy! some climbers have the biggest egos....nice to see he is not one of them.
That pinch hold at 14:05ish is absoluteltly insane.
Incredible route. We feel for him! :D
Kudos to Chris and the cameraman
What reggae song is playing at 8:15
Jah Jah City - Capleton
which song is playing from 5:26??
I'm pretty sure they just do it by repelling down from the top most of the time, although here that would still be difficult because of the constant sloping overhang.
How do the hooks get put in? Descend from the top and drill them in?
This is pretty crazy, takes some serious strength to pull your body up and hang with 1 arm, using only a couple fingers.
I think ppl are getting bitchy about the music lol. Im sure Sharma would approve lmao
Anyone know the songs?
Jah jah city by Caplton
Sizzla & Capleton - Jah Jah City
Ticklah & Rob Symeonn - Wicked A Go Dub It
Horace Andy - Do You Love My music
Look at the shoes he was wearing too, makes it look even stronger
Erm... stupid question here... who put those anchors in the wall
?
The first climber who opens a new climbing route on a rock face, and gives it a name.
akseli9 So how secure are those? Do they get replaced or something after a few years? Btw... it says "world's first 5.15" does that mean he also put those anchors he's using?
shogrran On this route, the bolts and the last anchor were installed as soon as 1989 by Jean-Christophe Lafaille, who identified this route as one very interesting and challenging. That's how it usually works. Another extreme example, La Dura Dura (most difficult route ever climbed), fits more to your guess: It's Chris Sharma himself who put the bolts and anchors, and it's him working together with Adam Ondra, who successfully climbed it for the second time (one month after Ondra).
Secure? They can last years but are indeed replaced when necessary. It happens that a piton can break or get off. A piton less, of course makes the fall longer and more hazardous, although the rope still holds to the next piton right below.
akseli9 Not always the case. Some people will create a route they haven't climbed yet by simply rappelling down from the top and placing bolts as they go. They test moves and holds as they go down to ensure it is a legit climb. I don't know if that is how this one was set but that is another way of the bolts being set into place.
Kirk Lazarus I figured that had to be one of the ways to create sport routes. Otherwise, routes like this 5.15, that only one or two people in the world can climb successfully, would be a lot harder because they'd have to be placing bolts as they go, which makes it more like trad climbing, if not harder still.
Alex Huber, World's First 5.15, "Open Air" 1996.
akseli9 retroactively first 5.15
yes. thank you.
@bigupproductions - I'm a HUGE Sharma fan but what about Alexander Huber's FA of "Open Air" which was rated 9a+ (and this was 5 years before Sharma sent "Realization"). Even Adam Ondra gave it a 9a+ ....so technically, wasn't Huber the first climber to break through the barrier of 5.15??
Non-climber question- What is meant by 5.15? (I assume the distance?)
Randomly came across this. Awesome video
It's a measure of the difficulty of the route. 5.1 is easiest. 5.15 is hardest. Some of the higher levels are broken up into smaller divisions (eg 5.11a, 5.11b...5.11d because there is a huge difference in difficulty between the higher numbers). There might be 5.0, I'm not sure. 5.5 or 5.6 is what you'll find beginning climbers climb at the rock gym. 5.15c is the hardest anyone has completed so far.
it's the difficulty rating. beginners would climb 5.6 through 5.8 while more experienced climbers would climb 5.9 through 5.11. very experienced climbers would be in the 5.12 or 5.13 range and the best climbers in the world climb 5.14 and up.
back in the day ratings started at 5.0. 5.6 was considered difficult, and 5.9 was as hard as it got. Gear and technique improved and climbers got bolder and 5.10 was added. Harder routes were climbed and 5.10 was divided into a,b,c,d. A 5.10d is way harder than 5.10a. Harder and harder routes were climbed, and 5.11 then 12, then 13 were added. Ever rating 5.10 and above is graded a,b,c or d. I remember how ridiculous 5.12 sounded when it first came out, but the ratings have kept going up. 5.12 or maybe even 5.11 routes are the hardest things that the average joe would look at and consider climbable. 5.13 is absurdly difficult, 5.14 all but impossible and 5.15....jeez. Most experienced climbers look at that stuff and say wtf. FYI the V ratings are for unroped climbs V0, V1 is 5.10, all the way up to V14 or 15 which is like 5.15 or 5.15+
What are those first purple shoes? DOPE
The way I understand it, there's no maximum difficulty, they're only rated relative to each other. So my question is this, who officially decides the difficulty of routes? It can't just be the first person who climbs it, because I could go climb a V4 for the first time and go around telling people it's a V20 or some impossible crap like that.
That's why routes are 'verified' which means another person climbs it and agrees with the rating. Climbs are often repeated or climbed by several people and a consensus confirms the rating. Now-a-days, there are climbing forums (for example mountainproject.com) where climbers can give their insight on different climbs and a fair grade can be agreed on. However, the Hueco scale (V system) is thought to be a tad vague and subjective to some people, so the Fontainebleau grading system (related to the french grading system for sport climbing) is becoming increasingly popular worldwide. Climbers have also discussed the idea of having one, worldwide grading system, so that there is less confusion on grades of climbs.
kalon morgan
Good answer. I've thought this myself many times. Certainly in the UK, the guide books are pretty accurate - I climb at around VS / HVS trad, with the occasional E1 thrown in. If I'm in an unfamiliar area, if the guide book says it's HVS, I know it's going to be tough but do-able. Having said that, I've attempted a supposed VS that stumped me, and conversely an E1 that I breezed up. I think grades are allocated provisionally by the first ascender, then revised based upon feedback from other climbers.
But what gets me, the first ascent is often by a really good climber. How can someone that often does E7 / E8, for example, tell the difference between an VDiff or a Severe ? They're all a piece of piss to him, But they do seem to get it right 95% of the time ;-)
Yeah, you could go FA a V4 and call it a V20, and then the next 500 people that climb it after you will call you a cupcake for grading a V4 as a V20.
cashmab Lol yeah, I was kind of exaggerating to make my point clear. But I'd imagine It's far more difficult to verify a route that only one or two climbers in the world can do.
If your climbing something that only a few people in the world can climb, it's pretty easy to verify that its near the established top of the scale yes? Also, your only really rating the climb for the benefit of a small group of people you could probably list by name. Why would you try to lie to them? Your not gonna claim the first 5.15 unless your pretty sure that this small community will support you in your claim over time. You would not try to look like an idiot or a liar. Sometimes the rating of a climb might adjust over time but usually not by much.
para mi el mejor y mas carismatico escalador !!!!!me motivo constantemente para seguir scalando cada dia mas fuerte
Anyone who knows which song it is at 5:25, thanks guys! :)
Sizzla - Capleton - Jah Jah City
14:00 was the worst spot to put an ad
A noob question. If he was the first to climb this, then who put the clamps for the rope allowing him to do this route?
does anyone know the name of the songs/artist for the music? also.. thats insane talent and intense dedication.
Chris no solo es de la vieja escuela, sino que nos demuestra que también es de la nueva.
Bolting a route is a whole different story than someone actually climbing it for the first time.
i suppose to answer properly i should say it's acceptable when sport climbing to abseil from the top and preplace your quickdraws on the bolts
How did he manage to put his fingers in such a narrow rock holes
Mad respek for the collar'd polo on a 5.15
Perhaps someone with some good climbing knowledge could help me out with a question I have...
How do climbers go about rating high difficulty climbs like this? For example, if this is the first confirmed 5.15 send, then how do they know it's rated a 5.15? Do professionals get together to evaluate it? Or possibly Sharma himself rates it based on his experience? Certain moves and crux's that set the standard?
Any insight would be appreciated, thanks! Let's keep this friendly and not typical TH-cam comment trash :/
+Carmen & Dustin Smith climbing grades are very subjective. This climb being the first confirmed 5.15 means that it's been climbed by at least two people, and the grade is agreed upon. Normally a climber will set a new route and give it an initial grade, then the climbing community can climb it and provide some input on what they think the grade is. This is generally how it happens, and is one of the reasons why the same "grade" in different climbing areas can feel different from others (a 5.10a at The Red might feel easier than a 5.10a at J Tree). I'm pretty sure the process goes something like this: Sharma: "I've climbed a lot of 14d's... this feels harder than 14d. Probably 15a". Next climber: "Definitely harder than 14d. 15a it is."
Maybe someone lowered them down, their might be a part where you can walk up or climb up around the other side that easier... im wondering what that different color rock was or why its different...