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- เผยแพร่เมื่อ 26 พ.ย. 2024
- ▼Parts and Tools Listed Below▼
The heater core is a crucial component of a vehicle's heating and ventilation system. It works by using hot coolant from the engine to provide warmth to the interior of the vehicle. The heater core may become clogged over time from sediments that accumulate in the cooling system in a similar fashion to how the radiator itself may become clogged over time. A heater core flush requires a few specific parts to ensure correct fitment of the heater core tubing to a flush system, whether that's a plain garden hose or a more intricate system like I will use in the video.
➤ Parts required:
3/4" internal diameter plastic tubing (25ft): amzn.to/3QPQCzJ
A pump to circulate the cleaner: amzn.to/3QAvL24
Adapters to connect the tubing to the pump (3/4" female to 3/4" barbed): amzn.to/3FReNr1
Universal Coolant (2 gallons): amzn.to/46dFL6V
Radiator flush (x2): amzn.to/468xqRW
Line clamps: amzn.to/3sxqsIw
Hose clamps: amzn.to/3SxHKQs
Buckets (x2): amzn.to/3QADKfx
➤ Tools required:
Flathead screwdriver for the hose clamps
Tool set I use for most projects: amzn.to/46VKwU4
Works with RRS and LR3 MY 2005, 2006, 2007, 2008, 2009
#rangeroversport #LR3 #rangerover #landrover
Disclaimer:
Due to factors beyond my control, I cannot guarantee against improper use or unauthorized modifications of this information. I (Hazy) assume no liability for property damage or injury incurred as a result of any of the information contained in this video. Use this information at your own risk. I (Hazy) recommend safe practices when working on vehicles and/or with tools seen or implied in this video. Due to factors beyond my control, no information contained in this video shall create any expressed or implied warranty or guarantee of any particular result. Any injury, damage, or loss that may result from improper use of these tools, equipment, or from the information contained in this video is the sole responsibility of the user and not Hazy.
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creativecommon...
He's done it again!!!!!! My god Hazy, i need to buy you a beer! Weather went down to -7/10 ish lately and heaters are blowing hot from one vent and luke warm from all others!
This should definitely help warm it up, I noticed my car gets much warmer after flushing it for about 15 minutes. I probably still need to fix the driver blend door so that will be next, but removing trim panels is always a pain.
@@HazyJay This looks like a perfect place to begin tho sir! It looks like a job i can tackle. Question - if its -7 outside and car has sat idle fore a few days - can i still do this? All help appreciated?
@@IanKane21 It shouldn't be a problem as long as the antifreeze is still a liquid at -7 degrees, you may want to skip the water bath if freezing is an issue.
@@HazyJay thank you, maybe consider using warmer water? would that do damage in any way do yo think? If i think about when im cleaning other things im usually defaulting to hot or even boiling water.
@@IanKane21 Warm water shouldn't cause any issues since the coolant is usually VERY hot. I would avoid boiling water however.
Thank you very much
My confidence restored by watching your channel. Thank you for the RR hacks. Please make a video on Transmission fault traction reduced and slow down Transmission overheat faults.
Thanks again.
I would definitely replace the transmission fluid, possibly it's low which would cause these faults. I wouldn't "flush" the fluid just drain and replace.
@@HazyJay thank you.
Do you have to bleed the system after the flush?
Good video, thank you
Awesome videos! Thanks so much for doing this, especially in such an articulated way. For a while my heat was just working on one side, so i thought it was an actuator/door problem like you talked about, but now neither sides are working. I smell coolant upon startup - is this a common symptom of clogged core, or do you think i have a core leak? Thanks again.
You really only smell coolant if it's burning (should smell like syrup) which shouldn't happen if the heater core is leaking in the cabin (also you should note some coolant accumulating in the footwells). I would check your coolant level and make sure it's normal and look around for a leak under the car, usually it's fairly obvious because the coolant leaves a sticky green/yellow residue. If there's no leak, then consider flushing the heater core since it's cheap(er) than replacing the heater core. Replacing the passenger blend motor is a pain, the driver blend door is slightly easier to access.
I have heat on the window and floor but not on the front vents.. sound like the blend door problem for me
LOVE YOUR VIDEOS
awesome video as usual. I found a loose bolt under my transfer case, that connects to a cross member with a bushing/joint looking style, did you happen to know the torque spec for this part? quick google search found Front Transmission Transfer Case Support Mount, but couldnt find the correct spec for torque values, thanks
Very good video.
Do you need to bleed the little bit of air that that might become present at the joins?
@@labquality82 You should perform a coolant bleed procedure after, I believe I go through the procedure at the end of my coolant reservoir video of you're interested!
Thank you for the video.
Question: why did you use the green coolant and not the orange (dexcool)?
It's been the green universal coolant since I bought the car 10 years ago so I just kept it the same, but the OEM is dexcool. Dexcool is probably ideal if available.
Gotcha. I think I didn't realize green was universal. Good to know. Thank you @@HazyJay
Do you have to worry about the preassure from the pump so that it matches the pressure generated from the water pump of the car so that it doesn't blow any small channels in the heater?
Yes, a vehicle's cooling system PSI should be around 15 max, so the pump shouldn't be higher than this. You can check this by how high the pump says it can pump water and convert this to PSI. You would search "12ft water column to PSI" for example.
THANK YOU FOR THE MASS AIR FLOW TRICK BUT NOW THERMOSTAT NOT MOVING AND HEAT BLOWS OUT COLD AIR
What mass airflow trick?
I was wondering the same thing...@@samuelbobert5769
So I have AC coming out, but the heat is coming out look right only on one side of my passenger side. The driver side is like air. I know you did a video about the core core but do I need to follow that video to fix that problem or what is the problem what could be the problem?
Yeah that's what happens to mine, you likely need the heat blender door changed on the driver side. I haven't had to do that repair yet. Flushing the heater core did make the heat work better but I believe I still need to swap the blender door.
I'm getting ready to try this flush. I've noticed people generally use a garden hose to really clean the flush out. Is the amount of water in these buckets truly adequate to get all the flush out and not leave it in the system?
I believe so, you're diluting it with a coolant only wash and then it's further diluted with the system coolant when everything is reconnected. A hose would work fine as well.
Hi, i changed front right strut. Of course, i disconnect battery, took of suspension fuse before start working. But now, after two weeks my LR320 driver side is about an inch lower then passengers. (Left hand steering). Can i level the car without using obd tool?
I don't think you can manually level it. You will need a GAP IID tool to calibrate it or you can go to the dealer, I'd do whichever is cheaper.
what are the diameters of the hoses you used
3/4" internal diameter 👌
@@HazyJaythanks, attempting this on my lr4 sport
@@samuelbobert5769 good luck, hope it helps before winter
is this the same coolant as an the expansion tank. Is the coolant for the engine and heater core on separate circuits? I'm trying to understand would flushing the engine coolant also flush the heater core coolant?
This is the same exact coolant that circulates in the engine and to the reservoir. When you do a coolant flush, the coolant in the heater core stays in place behind the firewall simply due to gravity, the only way to flush it is to actively circulate cleaner through it.
@@HazyJay ahh, I see. So when the vehicle is running it circulates with the rest of the coolant in the vehicle?
Have you tried running CLR through on the first run? I'm about to flush the core on my 06 RRS Supercharged. I was just curious
I've never used the CLR you get at the store for normal household pipes but actually CLR makes a radiator flush that you could use. I don't know how different it is to the flush I used, or even how different the CLR radiator flush is from regular CLR. I'm guessing they're fairly similar.
This is a controversial item in the forums. Flushes are supposedly ineffective. I am experiencing the dread driver side no heat issue. I attempted a flush similar to this with recirculation . I have Luke warm heat in the center vent and hot heat on the far driver side - which is a common issue when the core is clogged. This is improved from all cold.
I am hoping a few more flushes or longer ones might work but it does appear like this might be a losing battle if the forums are to be believed. However I do have flapper codes, which the forums indicate are likely the root cause. What pain.
I agree, my heat has definitely gotten warmer but there is still variability between the driver/passenger side which I believe is due to blend doors. Blend motor change will be my next project if it gets much colder here.
@@HazyJay I am reading and it still is highly likely it is the core. Though those blend doors can fail.. If you do tackle it I believe doing the hybrid cut hose approach to just take apart the glove box is the way.
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I am hoping the flush will get me through the winter as well but we will see... old car pains. Though I am tempted to try a citric acid flush for 4 hours or so. Mercedes recommends and sells citric acid so it isn't completely crazy.
Having said that despite the pain. Though heater cores have been going 'bad' for a while, so kinda normal too.
Why would a flush be ineffective?
@@HazyJay It looks like the driver side should bet easy to change without too much removal. I do wonder if worth it, if the dual plenum core is possibly ruined, hard to say.
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