I shoot 27" cedar arrows 11/32" diameter, and with heavy points, have no problems getting 600 to 700 grains. Even more if I shoot longer arrows or add extra coats of sealer or paint. You can even use sections of aluminum arrows to slide over tip end of shaft. Sanding to make tight fit. Adds weight and stiffness depending upon length cut. Durability also. Leave insert in aluminum sections for point changing.
Thanks for the info again Mr. Carter. I’m not a beginner to archery or traditional archery but I find your videos informative and easy to watch. Thanks for keeping it real and not so commercialized
Great video Mr. Carter, I believe that virtually any commercially available arrow these days out of a traditional bow "off the shelf" is capable of any level of accuracy that the overwhelming majority of archers are, aluminum, carbon, wood are all great, and the choice really ought to come down to desired hunting weight, draw length, draw weight, and durability. I think you'll have a very tough time getting up to 650+ grain arrows shooting wood or carbon short of having some southern engineering in your veins, so if your into the Ashby arrows, you should really consider aluminum, if your trying to stay 550 or less, feel free to shoot whatever. Carbon is probably the most durable material, but it costs a bit more, if you don't mind "rolling your own" and don't mind losing some, go wooden if it meets your safety/accuracy needs.
Mr Carter I appreciate ur wisdom on traditional equipment, my self I'm 65 been hunting traditional since I was 15, and I also admire all ways putting the Lord in ur videos that's awesome, my self I'm an ordained minister , so I appreciate u and what u for us bowhunter that hunt with stick and string, thank u for ur video, till next time good Lord willing
Thanks for the video. Lot’s of good information for folks just starting out. Wish I could have seen this 50 years ago! Would have saved a lot of time and trouble, and money!
Thanks for the video Mr. Carter! I haven’t dabbled with wood arrows yet. I played with some aluminums, but I have a long draw. I have had problems finding aluminum arrows within my spine needs that work for the length arrow I need without having to go with a relatively large diameter arrow. That, the durability, and the ability to shift weight towards the front of the arrow has landed me back at carbons.
I've shot a lot of aluminum and wood and feel like the douglas fir is more durable than the aluminum and I rarely have as many straightness issues as I did with aluminum. Just my 2 cents though. Great video
Roger that sir when I was younger and started carbon I cut them off with a steak knife crooked as hell and I can miss the target just like those clean cuts I made 25 years later still do what I need with what I have it’s what you have to do when you live in the woods lol have a good day. Thanks for sharing the knowledge.
when one finds the right combination of bow(style and weight) arrows (type, spine, length etc) points or broadheads that perform the best for them, then that is what they will have the most confidence in shooting and hunting with. We do have a lot of options in so many ways and things. And I like them all pretty well LOL. great video as always. There are times that I simply shoot what I have the most of. There are so many variables in this sport/hobby from person to person that there are no exact answers to any given question most of the time. Everyone is built differently and thus creates variances in nearly everything archery. So it is all about finding what works best for you and sticking to it. Of course someone that thinks that they are an expert will try to change what works for you to what and how they do it but they usually make things a lot worse. Perfect form? people all over the world have been shooting bows for fun, food and even war for thousands of years and their shooting bows, arrows and styles vary so much and yet each one can be very successful. The biggest thing is to be as consistent as possible and yet there will someone that is a Michael Jordan or Larry Bird that can make impossible shots all of the time. Keep em coming Brother!
Arrows are like women and purses, you collect them. Rightvnow i love the traditional only carbon barebow . They are a tough baked on white that has great visibility. I grew up on Easton aluminums, but that was a long time ago.
I've been bow hunting since '93? And started with aluminum and eventually switched to cedar some time ago when aluminum began to be hard to find . I do not like the carbon they don't seem to do well for me.
Great video, I love shooting all arrows, I’ve now killed deer with aluminum, carbon and wood but for me, I sure do love wood arrows, thinking about trying my first set of Douglas firs this year
Hello Mr. Carter, hope you're well. What do you mean by a big feather? Height of the feather? The length? Slowly trying to get into archery and bowhunting up here in the north
Mr. Carter how do you use the Dremel? Do you put the shafts in a vise of some kind? I just bought some GT blems uncut and want to cut them to 28 with my Dremel, but this would be a first. Thanks for the videos, I always learn from them. God bless.
I have killed small game with a pistol but no deer or hogs. Brother John hunted with a pistol a couple of years before he passed and killed a lot of deer and pigs. All under 20 yards. He hunted with a 357 sig. I bought a 1911 in 10 mm and a single action 45 long colt but have not hunted with either. Maybe 1 day though.
Yeah, I thought that was my idea! Use the corner of the file to score a line around the arrow then gradually work deeper til it breaks off then use the file to clean up the cut.
They seem expensive up front, but once you achieve a reasonable degree of competence with your bow, and you stop trying to group 6 arrows in one dot, they really aren't too bad. As an example, I shoot the Fred Eichler Edition of the Easton Axis arrows, about $180 a dozen, and that dozen can roughly be sorted into two half dozen groups, the most consistent weight arrows are designated as my hunting shafts, the other half dozen are for practice/small game. I might have to replace half a dozen a year, so in two years, your looking at $270 dollars, or just over $11 a month, decreasing year over year to roughly $7.50 a month, and almost anybody with a job can afford that if they are serious about archery.
@@johnhildenbrand2642 hmm I'm just looking at getting into bow shooting. I'm sure I'll loose & ruin a bunch at first. I can load my 30-30 with bullets I've cast, 10gr of unique powder and my primers for around .11 cents each brass life with this load is really long maybe I better stick to rifles 😆
@Yelladog78 Been where you are bud, hit up your local bow shop, you'll probably find 6/12 packs of Fleetwood arrows, they are hardly "hunting" quality, but they work, and they are cheap, secondly, fight the urge to insist on trying 20+ yard hero shots your second day with a bow, that's how arrows break/go MIA. 3rd, grab a 20-25lb takedown recurve, I know a lot of folks are drawn to longbows, one pieces etc, but that will inevitably lead to the "it needs to be hunting weight or its a waste of money" argument, buy the takedown, a new set of limbs is a pretty affordable thing, and you can ease your way up affordably if your patient, start at 5 yards, when you can shoot 6 inch groups more often than not, back up a few yards (10 at most) and start again, rinse lather repeat, you'll probably end up spending a grand total less than a reasonable .30 long range or "western hunting" set up, my guess is total cost of less than a grand by the time you hit 40-50lb, and move into proper hunting arrows etc. The real deal is, a traditional bow is basically a 20 yard bow, watch a bunch of Mr. Carter's videos, most of the pigs/deer he shoots are 10-15 yards, that's the thrill of the game, be honest with yourself, a certain degree of empty tags comes with that for a long time, if you can't handle that, might be best to stick with a rifle or a compound/cross bow, archery doesn't have to be a second mortgage, but traditional archery has no shortcuts on skill, it will take time, probably a couple of years honestly, to get to the point where you can properly build the muscles/form to be accurate with ethical limits in mind, that definitely isn't something everybody is prepared to commit to, I certainly wasn't when I got into archery, it took me probably 5+ years of compound hunting (I still do occasionally, deer meat isn't just recreational in my home, if it comes down to it I will pick up the compound and fill a freezer) before the challenge of trad bows infected me. Give it a shot, worst that happens is you have a new hobby in the back yard with reusable ammunition
@@johnhildenbrand2642 sounds like from your advice I'd be happier with a compound bow, I just want to hunt more & thought I could get going with a recurve easier & cheaper but not so much now. I have friends that bought compounds and were killing deer months after buying bows using Walmart arrows and broad heads. For me it's more about meat in the freezer and less about the experience. I appreciate you taking the time to share with me
@Yelladog78 Definitely sounds like your at a point where a compound bow is probably going to work better for you, you should be able to get a tag filled if you work hard from now until season as long as you restrict yourself to probably 30-40 yards in any direction. That's still a far cry from rifle range, but I don't think a reasonably competent deer hunter would have a truly stressful time setting up within 40 yards of a well known trail and getting an opportunity. If you start looking into compounds, don't buy into the nonsense about NEEDING a flagship bow to hunt, that's a bunch of bullshit, you can absolutely get it done at 30-40 yards with a Diamond, Bear, or other mid priced or "affordable" bow, just don't buy a bow two weeks before the opener and think your going to be ready, you won't. Buy your bow now, get it set up at the shop (this SHOULD come complementary at any respectable shop) and be sure that you go back after about 200 shots or so to get everything re-tuned, depending on how much you shoot a final tune up 2-3 weeks prior to season is a good idea, if you can, either work in or pay for a few lessons, it'll cut the learning curve down a ton, other than that, have fun man, hunt your butt off during archery season, and if they got your number don't feel like your a failure or whatever if you have to pick up the rifle and fill your freezer that way this year, you'll figure it out with a bit of discipline just like the rest of us.
I shoot 27" cedar arrows 11/32" diameter, and with heavy points, have no problems getting 600 to 700 grains. Even more if I shoot longer arrows or add extra coats of sealer or paint. You can even use sections of aluminum arrows to slide over tip end of shaft. Sanding to make tight fit. Adds weight and stiffness depending upon length cut.
Durability also. Leave insert in aluminum sections for point changing.
Thanks for the info again Mr. Carter. I’m not a beginner to archery or traditional archery but I find your videos informative and easy to watch. Thanks for keeping it real and not so commercialized
Robert, watching your videos has convinced me of two things: a heavier arrow is better, and shot placement is the most important...good hunting...
I use a Dremel tool and an abrasion wheel for cutting carbons. I never realized you could cut them the same way you do wood or bamboo.
Great video Mr. Carter, I believe that virtually any commercially available arrow these days out of a traditional bow "off the shelf" is capable of any level of accuracy that the overwhelming majority of archers are, aluminum, carbon, wood are all great, and the choice really ought to come down to desired hunting weight, draw length, draw weight, and durability. I think you'll have a very tough time getting up to 650+ grain arrows shooting wood or carbon short of having some southern engineering in your veins, so if your into the Ashby arrows, you should really consider aluminum, if your trying to stay 550 or less, feel free to shoot whatever. Carbon is probably the most durable material, but it costs a bit more, if you don't mind "rolling your own" and don't mind losing some, go wooden if it meets your safety/accuracy needs.
Mr Carter I appreciate ur wisdom on traditional equipment, my self I'm 65 been hunting traditional since I was 15, and I also admire all ways putting the Lord in ur videos that's awesome, my self I'm an ordained minister , so I appreciate u and what u for us bowhunter that hunt with stick and string, thank u for ur video, till next time good Lord willing
Thanks for the video. Lot’s of good information for folks just starting out. Wish I could have seen this 50 years ago! Would have saved a lot of time and trouble, and money!
Thank you Robert. I'm always happy when you post.
Thanks Robert!🙏
Great advice. Thanks for taking the time.
Appreciate your input on arrows Robert enjoy your videos!
Thanks for the video Mr. Carter! I haven’t dabbled with wood arrows yet. I played with some aluminums, but I have a long draw. I have had problems finding aluminum arrows within my spine needs that work for the length arrow I need without having to go with a relatively large diameter arrow. That, the durability, and the ability to shift weight towards the front of the arrow has landed me back at carbons.
I've shot a lot of aluminum and wood and feel like the douglas fir is more durable than the aluminum and I rarely have as many straightness issues as I did with aluminum. Just my 2 cents though. Great video
Great view on the different options!
Roger that sir when I was younger and started carbon I cut them off with a steak knife crooked as hell and I can miss the target just like those clean cuts I made 25 years later still do what I need with what I have it’s what you have to do when you live in the woods lol have a good day. Thanks for sharing the knowledge.
when one finds the right combination of bow(style and weight) arrows (type, spine, length etc) points or broadheads that perform the best for them, then that is what they will have the most confidence in shooting and hunting with. We do have a lot of options in so many ways and things. And I like them all pretty well LOL. great video as always. There are times that I simply shoot what I have the most of. There are so many variables in this sport/hobby from person to person that there are no exact answers to any given question most of the time. Everyone is built differently and thus creates variances in nearly everything archery. So it is all about finding what works best for you and sticking to it. Of course someone that thinks that they are an expert will try to change what works for you to what and how they do it but they usually make things a lot worse. Perfect form? people all over the world have been shooting bows for fun, food and even war for thousands of years and their shooting bows, arrows and styles vary so much and yet each one can be very successful. The biggest thing is to be as consistent as possible and yet there will someone that is a Michael Jordan or Larry Bird that can make impossible shots all of the time. Keep em coming Brother!
Great information! Really cool to hear your method of trimming carbon arrows, too!! Excellent channel!
Thanks for the info.
Arrows are like women and purses, you collect them.
Rightvnow i love the traditional only carbon barebow . They are a tough baked on white that has great visibility. I grew up on Easton aluminums, but that was a long time ago.
Another fantastic video!
I've been bow hunting since '93? And started with aluminum and eventually switched to cedar some time ago when aluminum began to be hard to find . I do not like the carbon they don't seem to do well for me.
Great video, I love shooting all arrows, I’ve now killed deer with aluminum, carbon and wood but for me, I sure do love wood arrows, thinking about trying my first set of Douglas firs this year
Quality
Thanks great video
I love aluminum cuz you can cut them with pipe cutter
You can also cut carbon the same way
Very cool 😎👍
Curious, what did you do to make your brass inserts fit into those aluminum shafts?
I used a 2 part quick dry epoxy. Let it set till almost hard and then centered the point.
Hello Mr. Carter, hope you're well.
What do you mean by a big feather? Height of the feather? The length?
Slowly trying to get into archery and bowhunting up here in the north
@@erolnisic2465 high back. I use lengthy ones too. Usually 5.5
@@robertcarte95 Thanks for the reply. How many inches for the height?
@@erolnisic2465 I dont know have to measure one .
Fair enough. Thank you for your help in any case
Mr. Carter how do you use the Dremel? Do you put the shafts in a vise of some kind? I just bought some GT blems uncut and want to cut them to 28 with my Dremel, but this would be a first. Thanks for the videos, I always learn from them. God bless.
I don't use a Dremel. I score the arrows through the outer layer with my pocket knife and snap them off.
@robertcarte95 thank you that helps.
You ever hunt with a pistol it’s like bow hunting your shots are close ?
I have killed small game with a pistol but no deer or hogs. Brother John hunted with a pistol a couple of years before he passed and killed a lot of deer and pigs. All under 20 yards. He hunted with a 357 sig. I bought a 1911 in 10 mm and a single action 45 long colt but have not hunted with either. Maybe 1 day though.
Enjoyed this upload,I check each evening to see if you have. Added new content
Robert have you read this months GON on a little girl who was bitten by a copperhead? After your snake boot video I think you might like it.
A file works good for cutting carbon arrows
Yeah, I thought that was my idea! Use the corner of the file to score a line around the arrow then gradually work deeper til it breaks off then use the file to clean up the cut.
I was kinda shocked at the cost of arrows
They seem expensive up front, but once you achieve a reasonable degree of competence with your bow, and you stop trying to group 6 arrows in one dot, they really aren't too bad. As an example, I shoot the Fred Eichler Edition of the Easton Axis arrows, about $180 a dozen, and that dozen can roughly be sorted into two half dozen groups, the most consistent weight arrows are designated as my hunting shafts, the other half dozen are for practice/small game. I might have to replace half a dozen a year, so in two years, your looking at $270 dollars, or just over $11 a month, decreasing year over year to roughly $7.50 a month, and almost anybody with a job can afford that if they are serious about archery.
@@johnhildenbrand2642 hmm I'm just looking at getting into bow shooting. I'm sure I'll loose & ruin a bunch at first. I can load my 30-30 with bullets I've cast, 10gr of unique powder and my primers for around .11 cents each brass life with this load is really long maybe I better stick to rifles 😆
@Yelladog78 Been where you are bud, hit up your local bow shop, you'll probably find 6/12 packs of Fleetwood arrows, they are hardly "hunting" quality, but they work, and they are cheap, secondly, fight the urge to insist on trying 20+ yard hero shots your second day with a bow, that's how arrows break/go MIA. 3rd, grab a 20-25lb takedown recurve, I know a lot of folks are drawn to longbows, one pieces etc, but that will inevitably lead to the "it needs to be hunting weight or its a waste of money" argument, buy the takedown, a new set of limbs is a pretty affordable thing, and you can ease your way up affordably if your patient, start at 5 yards, when you can shoot 6 inch groups more often than not, back up a few yards (10 at most) and start again, rinse lather repeat, you'll probably end up spending a grand total less than a reasonable .30 long range or "western hunting" set up, my guess is total cost of less than a grand by the time you hit 40-50lb, and move into proper hunting arrows etc. The real deal is, a traditional bow is basically a 20 yard bow, watch a bunch of Mr. Carter's videos, most of the pigs/deer he shoots are 10-15 yards, that's the thrill of the game, be honest with yourself, a certain degree of empty tags comes with that for a long time, if you can't handle that, might be best to stick with a rifle or a compound/cross bow, archery doesn't have to be a second mortgage, but traditional archery has no shortcuts on skill, it will take time, probably a couple of years honestly, to get to the point where you can properly build the muscles/form to be accurate with ethical limits in mind, that definitely isn't something everybody is prepared to commit to, I certainly wasn't when I got into archery, it took me probably 5+ years of compound hunting (I still do occasionally, deer meat isn't just recreational in my home, if it comes down to it I will pick up the compound and fill a freezer) before the challenge of trad bows infected me. Give it a shot, worst that happens is you have a new hobby in the back yard with reusable ammunition
@@johnhildenbrand2642 sounds like from your advice I'd be happier with a compound bow, I just want to hunt more & thought I could get going with a recurve easier & cheaper but not so much now. I have friends that bought compounds and were killing deer months after buying bows using Walmart arrows and broad heads. For me it's more about meat in the freezer and less about the experience. I appreciate you taking the time to share with me
@Yelladog78 Definitely sounds like your at a point where a compound bow is probably going to work better for you, you should be able to get a tag filled if you work hard from now until season as long as you restrict yourself to probably 30-40 yards in any direction. That's still a far cry from rifle range, but I don't think a reasonably competent deer hunter would have a truly stressful time setting up within 40 yards of a well known trail and getting an opportunity. If you start looking into compounds, don't buy into the nonsense about NEEDING a flagship bow to hunt, that's a bunch of bullshit, you can absolutely get it done at 30-40 yards with a Diamond, Bear, or other mid priced or "affordable" bow, just don't buy a bow two weeks before the opener and think your going to be ready, you won't. Buy your bow now, get it set up at the shop (this SHOULD come complementary at any respectable shop) and be sure that you go back after about 200 shots or so to get everything re-tuned, depending on how much you shoot a final tune up 2-3 weeks prior to season is a good idea, if you can, either work in or pay for a few lessons, it'll cut the learning curve down a ton, other than that, have fun man, hunt your butt off during archery season, and if they got your number don't feel like your a failure or whatever if you have to pick up the rifle and fill your freezer that way this year, you'll figure it out with a bit of discipline just like the rest of us.