in a year and a half "you are" the first person to answer the drift and wag, in a vid, that i have seen, very cool. nice tidbit of info there. that tidbit will help a lot of people. p.s. the rest was good too
Hi Jasmine, this is the first of your videos I've watched. Very nicely done & really informative. It's so helpful for us heli noobs to get advice from more experienced heli-folk. Thanks & keep up the good work.
Thanks. That was very well explaind. I am in the middle of building a trex 450 right now with that gyro. I am in the middle of tail setup and adjusting the settings on the gyro. Thanks!
Thank you so much for this video I have a GP790 it sets up the same i was lost til i found your video thank you so much your vids are always good to watch you tought me how to balance blades by one of your video as well keep em coming.
Outstanding Jasmine! I had no idea the servo horn had that much effect on the gyros performance. I learned something new today, thank you so much. Love your videos thank you for taking the time to make them, they truly are helpful. 5*****
@FlyGuyRc Well the servo sticking to one side is normal for a heading holder gyro. The spinning is because you have the direction reversed - not in the radio, but in the gyro itself. Direction is the 3rd setting on the gyro. Check the rudder stick reaction too before you get off the ground, because you might have to reverse that too, but it sounds like not.
yes, i did. well, yesterday night i installed a Microheli Tail-Set, checked the rod on binding and went from 7mm to 5mm. Tonight i will test. Looks fine whitout motor when pushing the tail around, but i realy hope for success tonight. Otherwise i have to let a Pro check it.
@juacas82 The LED on the gyro during programming indicates which setting you have chosen. If you reversed anything in the radio, change it back, that's not the reverse I'm talking about. The reverse you need is the "direction" setting of the gyro itself, which can be normal or reverse. When the tail moves, the gyro should push against that. You should be able to see if the blades react the right direction when you move the tail by hand, motor off, helicopter on.
U know thanks alot for this tutorial,it helped me alot:) mostly to help me make a decesion on what gyro to buy!! But I have one question:) When was that last time u cut your finger nails????
@skidpatrol You can reduce the piro rate using the dual rates or adjustable travel on your rudder channel. However, you can not set an absolute piro rate in degrees per second, as you can with the high end gyros.
Last night as I was about to setup the gyro my esc just stops working!!! One minute it's all systems go!, then it's like the esc just switched off... forever. I setup the esc as per the manual, and double checked my settings before use. Guess I got a bad one. Trying to get a replacement today so I can finally fly this little bird. Oh yeah and thanks for all the helpful build videos.
You center the pitch slider with mechanical adjustments, and the heading hold software takes care of the rest. If you use sub-trim the gyro will think you moved the stick off-center, and it will actually cause a slow tail drift and other random behavior. You can use it in certain cases, but it's too tricky to explain how, and it's easier, and correct, to just keep everything zeroed.
possibly - it depends on the servo and other factors. Put it in heading hold mode and swing the tail and see if it pitches the blades against your action. If you push the rudder to the right, the tail blades should 'push' - making the helicopter move to the right. If not, reverse the rudder channel. Then, swing the helicopter nose-left, and the gyro should push the blades the same way.
Yes that is generally a good idea after changing the trim on any radio system. Spektrum mentions this in their manuals. Whenever you change the trim, you should re-bind. However, you should try to set up your tail without using trim.
@wasimwazir Yeah I'm well aware of Finless Bob's recommendations for setting up gyros, but he has not done a video about the GP 750, and it works different from the GY 401 - not all gyros are the same. On the forums, we get a lot of people having problems related to entering trim and/or sub-trim on the rudder channel, so, while not technically correct, it is easiest to avoid using trim and sub-trim on the tail - and if you do things right, it's not necessary either.
Also make sure all of your tail linkage is moving smoothly, and is straight as you can get it. Make sure it isn't binding in the hole in the guide - you can open up that hole a little bit and it will help. Check the ball links on both ends and make sure they are smooth moving and the rod isn't going too far in and hitting the ball.
@Captan6pack I guess I'm not really sure what you're asking. Personally, I always fly in heading hold mode, so I only ever use one gain value, so whatever you can do to produce that value on the gear channel, that's what you can do. I don't know what radio you are using, but you just do it however you can and it should work.
The DX6i is a little different, but the issue with the servo moving to full extremes is actually normal heading hold behavior. When the helicopter is sitting still and does not react to servo movements, the heading hold gyro doesn't understand what is happening, and it continues to move the servo until it senses the tail swinging around like it's supposed to. The only way to test a heading hold gyro is to actually fly the thing.
@juacas82 The LED on the gyro *during operation* should be green, indicating heading hold mode. During programming though, it needs to be the correct color for the setting you are making, which is all shown in the video.
Hi Jasmine Thanks for all the helpfull vids and time spend to create them! I build my 250 and instead of the 750/420 combination i installed GY401/Futaba9257. I do have the same on my Protos 500, working just fine. On the 250 allthough i can't get them setup. Programming almost like for the Protos, but: HH-Mode is on, but its more like beating from left to right side. In standartmode it stays centered, but as soon as i move the rudderstick there is no smooth turning possible. end part 1
@RotorHead2652 Not sure where you heard that, but it's incorrect. The gain values can be whatever you want. Some radios allow you to set more than two, and when flying I'm usually only using one setting. I use heading hold mode exclusively, and the gain gets set at whatever it needs to be for each head speed.
Counter-clockwise can mean that the tail isn't giving enough thrust - this can be caused by many different issues, such as belt slipping or tail blades mounted wrong. It also can be the gyro is reversed. I am not familiar with the helicopter you're asking about, but those are some things to check.
When you set the limit, you're in programming mode and it moves the servo so you can see where you're at. Doesn't matter what the gain is on - programming modes do what you need it to do.
@juacas82 Change the reversing *on the gyro* not in the radio. It's the second or third option - direction, normal or reverse. Change it from whatever it is now.
Hi Jasmine, tanks a lot for this vids, they help a lot to me be cause I'm a beginer, could you recomend me link or something were I can understand what gain, sensitivity, etc. of the gyro means, I really apreciate, thanks again
True. Those gyros bug me because they always reset after every flight, so you have to trim the machine every time if the gyro doesn't center properly. Most of the time it works good, but sometimes it doesn't. I prefer to keep things as simple as possible, and it's much easier to try several different servo arms to get the right one, than to introduce complexity into your radio settings. That's why I give the advice I give - not because it's impossible, but because it's complicated.
@FlyGuyRc If direction is set to NOR and the helicopter spins out like crazy, then the direction needs to be set to REV, or vice versa - it is correcting the wrong way and making the spinning worse instead of stopping it.
@FlyGuyRc The other thing is normal, I promise. When you push the stick and the helicopter doesn't move, the gyro doesn't understand why, so it "tries harder" eventually moving the servo all the way to one side. When you let go of the stick, and the helicopter isn't moving, the gyro thinks everything is perfect because the commanded piro rate (zero) equals actual piro rate (zero), and it won't move the servo in that case, even if it's all the way to one side. This is how the heading hold works.
There are some reports of bad tail servos that pull too much juice and fry the ESC. Also one report of a bad ESC... call your dealer and see if they can replace the bad parts for you. It is worth it to get this little thing going :)
Sub-trim sends an off-center signal to the gyro. The gyro can not tell if this signal is being sent by sub-trim, or if the pilot has moved the stick off-center. Some gyros, like the GY401, will reset the center when they are powered up, and it's ok to use sub-trim in that case, as long as you re-bind your receiver so the gyro gets that off-center signal right away on power-up. This is covered in the GY401 manual - but this video is not about the GY401.
Back off the voltage to 5.5... the servo may not be able to handle 6. I run a BEC on my 250 now, so I don't have any issues like that - still run 5.5V though.
Thanks. Will check on all, maybe find it in one of what you mention. Yet, still there is another strange thing going on: while the ESC is initialising at startup, each Biptone has a simultanious move of the 9257. Some kind of impulse is getting straight through. So i wonder if any electronic device has a defect or is it interfernce between 2 of them due to the thight space!?
@jasmine2501 Hi Jasmine and thanks for making these vids! I don't understand most of it yet but I'm learning. One thing though... as someone who flys ( sim ) mostly piro moves, an inconsistant piro rate can really throw a wrench into the works. A piro change during a p-funnel knocks me out of sync with cyclic stir w/ no time to correct. Can you suggest a gyro for 250, 450 sizes which can set an absolute deg/sec piro rate? I just got a Spartan DS760... would that do the trick? Thanks much!
New parts can have problems. The DS420 servo is known for burning out. Sounds like maybe you need a different one. I don't use the one I got with my T-250 - switched it for a JR DS290G. For a 400-class heli, I think really a bigger servo is appropriate - I use a JR DS3400G on mine.
@gfb05 Sorry I accidentally deleted your other comment, but I think possibly you aren't getting a proper connection. Plug a servo directly into the rudder channel and make sure it's working.
I have one more :s , do you know what to change if the blades are not rotated enough in order to lift? With throtle stick in top blades are just paralel to the ground and with stick lower they do rotate much (like for decreasing altitude) Do I have to unscrew and rotate the blades holders at the very top of the heli? That part came mounted so I dont know ... Thanks for the help and videos.
This could happen if your receiver isn't working right, or the gyro is plugged in wrong. Make sure the 3-wire plug is in the rudder channel, and the single-wire plug is in the gear channel.
@1961westy No I tried the marriage thing once and it was not a good thing. These helis can be confusing, but they are logical, well-defined systems, so if anything doesn't make sense, read until you figure it out. There is a reason for everything we do - you just have to find what it is :)
Well the mixer is where the motors plug in to. There should be two screws to adjust things. I'm not sure on that helicopter though. Try going to RCGroups and ask a question in the Beginner electric helis area. I would say try reading the manual but it's probably in Chinese :)
Did you solve it? I just installed a 750 on my trex 500. Some quick things to check: 1.) Connector position. white/yellow signal wire should face to middle. 2.) On Tx set rudder expo or rate = 0%. 3.) No EPA(end point adjust) on rudder channel. Good luck.
More FYI's on this. I'm begrudgingly using, cuz lost my favorite GY401. The GP750 is very sensitive to mounting. Must be "soft" like the original tape. My double stick tape was rigid. Resulting in small tail twitching. I'm running: Trex 500 w/DS-620 tail servo. Zero Delay. 20% gain. BTW the connection to servo is "flimsy". Guarantee to disconnect on piros. Use dental floss trick to secure.
Go watch my radio setup video. It explains a procedure for getting the reversing and the swash mixing all correct. Basically, you do the reversing first and get the collective to move all three together, then do the mixing so things go in the right directions.
@yjoem1 Could be lots of reasons. Not enough gain, bad rudder servo, bad linkage geometry, sticky bearings, blades on backwards, gyro reversed, tail belt twisted wrong, servo on backwards... LOL... check everything.
Yeah that's a good way to do it. Just make sure to re-initialize and check everything once again before you fly. Actually... check it every time you fly, just while you spool up, make sure it's going the right way, then take off :) When I made this video, I reversed something and when I went to fly again, the rudder was backwards, so it's a good thing I check it every time!
hey Jasmine, I have done all what you said for the gyro setting, however, when I try to fly it the tail keeps going to the right. I am using a KDS k7x transmiter...I dont really know what to do, I have done everything...would you have any idea? Cheers Juan
Jasmine, can you help me a bit please? I have Spektrum DX6i and T-rex 450 SE. I dont know if I have to reverse any of the 3 gyros in front, the way I see it moved it has an inverted move when I go left/right. I am lost :) Do you know where I should look for help about this?
i just bought a used feda dragonfly and when i give it throttle it spins to the counter clockwise i have the trim alway to the right also to prevent it but its not enough it still spins. is anything wrong or am i doin something wrong?
@raymondx1232 Probly shoulda read the comments before saying that, AGAIN :) I'm well aware of what is possible, but it isn't advisable - it leads to a whole bunch of problems down the road, and some of them can be safety issues. It is best to do it without subtrim - possible to do it with subtrim, but the things you have to watch out for are too complicated to explain in a short video. So it's easier to just say don't do it. Can't believe I have to explain that again.
Now I set the 3 to move all together up/down, but when I use the other stick to lean left/right the swashplate leans in oposite direction of the stick, is that normal?
Something is mechanically set up wrong, or the servos weren't centered correctly. Please go to helifreak web site and find the correct area for your helicopter and post a question and see if people can help you. Pictures and a specific description of the problem will really help.
Should be 5mm servo arm for the tail. 9257 servo is over-kill for this helicopter - the DS420 actually works just fine, as will the DS290G - bigger servos will just make it tail-heavy and do not really give any advantage. Sounds like you've just got too much servo arm though - many people do use the 9257 and it works, but IMO it's just too big for this helicopter. 9257 is so strong that it can actually hide a problem with the tail hub - make sure you have the new single-bearing tail hub.
part 2: It does not move much till a certain point and than it spins like hell in an instant (i have my 250 attached to a turntable). No matter how i set up my radio (DX7), i tried so many ways, it will not work. I guess i have the wrong distance from Balllink to Servocenter. I can not find this info in the Manual. What distance is yours? Or do you have any idea what might be the problem? Little frustrated here. Thanks for ANY help in advance! Br foxbearCH
The servo will not center in heading hold mode. Only in rate mode will it actually center. You don't control the servo directly - the gyro puts the servo wherever it feels is necessary.
Tail wag is a sign of too much gain. It can be a mechanical issue, because a longer servo arm is same thing as increasing the gain. Servo arm should be 5mm at the most.
BTW: I do have the GY401 upsidedown and also 180° opposite to how i have it installed on my Protos - that should not be a problem, right? Thank you so much for your help, i could not find any post in any forum that can help, so fare. So THANKS! Br foxbearCH
An FYI for GP750 users. Make sure your tx rudder expo=0 and rate=100%. GP750 Limit setting may fail.. Most people fly with different expo or rate settings. To avoid problems, you must change expo/rate back to nominal. Now you can set limit on GP750. Then go back and reset expo/rate. This was driving me crazy. That's problem with any device relying on tx input.
@@tomasandersen367 yes, but with all the FAA stuff I have really started to lose interest in it. I don't feel like we should have to get permission from the government for harmless fun.
Instead of being a sarcastic jerk, why don't you go try it. Put in sub-trim and watch the tail drift. Then re-bind and see if it fixes it. With the GY401, re-binding will fix the issue - the gyro re-calibrates to the subtrimmed position.
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in a year and a half "you are" the first person to answer the drift and wag, in a vid, that i have seen, very cool. nice tidbit of info there. that tidbit will help a lot of people. p.s. the rest was good too
Hi Jasmine, this is the first of your videos I've watched. Very nicely done & really informative. It's so helpful for us heli noobs to get advice from more experienced heli-folk. Thanks & keep up the good work.
Thanks. That was very well explaind. I am in the middle of building a trex 450 right now with that gyro. I am in the middle of tail setup and adjusting the settings on the gyro. Thanks!
Thanks! I'm glad to see this is still helpful after 3 years!
Thank you so much for this video I have a GP790 it sets up the same i was lost til i found your video thank you so much your vids are always good to watch you tought me how to balance blades by one of your video as well keep em coming.
Thanks for the tutorial. This was a huge help
Great instructional video! Wonderful job. Thanks for sharing.
there is so much to learn and it can be a bit daunting but it is great fun and i luv it, just wish i was as switched on as you
What a great video. Thank you so much
Outstanding Jasmine! I had no idea the servo horn had that much effect on the gyros performance. I learned something new today, thank you so much.
Love your videos thank you for taking the time to make them, they truly are helpful. 5*****
Amazing videos, don't know how I would be able to build my 250 without them; thanks
That video did help. I fixed it.
It needed reverse in swashmix from +60 to -60 for the servos that ware reversed in order to move at once.
Thank you so much. I'm closer then ever to fixing the tail wag on my T Rex 450 sport v2
Very good description.
Easy
Thankyou, for your time.
@FlyGuyRc Well the servo sticking to one side is normal for a heading holder gyro. The spinning is because you have the direction reversed - not in the radio, but in the gyro itself. Direction is the 3rd setting on the gyro. Check the rudder stick reaction too before you get off the ground, because you might have to reverse that too, but it sounds like not.
yes, i did.
well, yesterday night i installed a Microheli Tail-Set, checked the rod on binding and went from 7mm to 5mm.
Tonight i will test.
Looks fine whitout motor when pushing the tail around, but i realy hope for success tonight. Otherwise i have to let a Pro check it.
@juacas82 The LED on the gyro during programming indicates which setting you have chosen. If you reversed anything in the radio, change it back, that's not the reverse I'm talking about. The reverse you need is the "direction" setting of the gyro itself, which can be normal or reverse. When the tail moves, the gyro should push against that. You should be able to see if the blades react the right direction when you move the tail by hand, motor off, helicopter on.
I think so yes. Seems to do that in all programming modes.
U know thanks alot for this tutorial,it helped me alot:) mostly to help me make a decesion on what gyro to buy!! But I have one question:) When was that last time u cut your finger nails????
@skidpatrol You can reduce the piro rate using the dual rates or adjustable travel on your rudder channel. However, you can not set an absolute piro rate in degrees per second, as you can with the high end gyros.
Jasmine
Excellent video - once again. :-)
Peter
Last night as I was about to setup the gyro my esc just stops working!!! One minute it's all systems go!, then it's like the esc just switched off... forever.
I setup the esc as per the manual, and double checked my settings before use. Guess I got a bad one.
Trying to get a replacement today so I can finally fly this little bird.
Oh yeah and thanks for all the helpful build videos.
You center the pitch slider with mechanical adjustments, and the heading hold software takes care of the rest. If you use sub-trim the gyro will think you moved the stick off-center, and it will actually cause a slow tail drift and other random behavior. You can use it in certain cases, but it's too tricky to explain how, and it's easier, and correct, to just keep everything zeroed.
possibly - it depends on the servo and other factors. Put it in heading hold mode and swing the tail and see if it pitches the blades against your action. If you push the rudder to the right, the tail blades should 'push' - making the helicopter move to the right. If not, reverse the rudder channel. Then, swing the helicopter nose-left, and the gyro should push the blades the same way.
Yes that is generally a good idea after changing the trim on any radio system. Spektrum mentions this in their manuals. Whenever you change the trim, you should re-bind. However, you should try to set up your tail without using trim.
It is fine as long as you set the reversing correctly.
@Golgafrinchamdent I think the Spartan can be set like that, possible the GY520 too... but you'll have to check.
@wasimwazir Yeah I'm well aware of Finless Bob's recommendations for setting up gyros, but he has not done a video about the GP 750, and it works different from the GY 401 - not all gyros are the same. On the forums, we get a lot of people having problems related to entering trim and/or sub-trim on the rudder channel, so, while not technically correct, it is easiest to avoid using trim and sub-trim on the tail - and if you do things right, it's not necessary either.
Thanks! Good luck with it! Tricky little bird, but very fun to fly :)
Also make sure all of your tail linkage is moving smoothly, and is straight as you can get it. Make sure it isn't binding in the hole in the guide - you can open up that hole a little bit and it will help. Check the ball links on both ends and make sure they are smooth moving and the rod isn't going too far in and hitting the ball.
@Captan6pack I guess I'm not really sure what you're asking. Personally, I always fly in heading hold mode, so I only ever use one gain value, so whatever you can do to produce that value on the gear channel, that's what you can do. I don't know what radio you are using, but you just do it however you can and it should work.
The DX6i is a little different, but the issue with the servo moving to full extremes is actually normal heading hold behavior. When the helicopter is sitting still and does not react to servo movements, the heading hold gyro doesn't understand what is happening, and it continues to move the servo until it senses the tail swinging around like it's supposed to. The only way to test a heading hold gyro is to actually fly the thing.
@juacas82 The LED on the gyro *during operation* should be green, indicating heading hold mode. During programming though, it needs to be the correct color for the setting you are making, which is all shown in the video.
I am soo very glad u explained this. Thanks
Tech help at xheli. Failed to clarify it for me
Hi Jasmine
Thanks for all the helpfull vids and time spend to create them!
I build my 250 and instead of the 750/420 combination i installed GY401/Futaba9257.
I do have the same on my Protos 500, working just fine.
On the 250 allthough i can't get them setup. Programming almost like for the Protos, but:
HH-Mode is on, but its more like beating from left to right side. In standartmode it stays centered, but as soon as i move the rudderstick there is no smooth turning possible.
end part 1
thanks for the video. good instruction. I mount the gyro the same way as you do on my Trex 500. It needs to be reversed right?
Thanks a lot!
@RotorHead2652 Not sure where you heard that, but it's incorrect. The gain values can be whatever you want. Some radios allow you to set more than two, and when flying I'm usually only using one setting. I use heading hold mode exclusively, and the gain gets set at whatever it needs to be for each head speed.
Counter-clockwise can mean that the tail isn't giving enough thrust - this can be caused by many different issues, such as belt slipping or tail blades mounted wrong. It also can be the gyro is reversed. I am not familiar with the helicopter you're asking about, but those are some things to check.
When you set the limit, you're in programming mode and it moves the servo so you can see where you're at. Doesn't matter what the gain is on - programming modes do what you need it to do.
@juacas82 Change the reversing *on the gyro* not in the radio. It's the second or third option - direction, normal or reverse. Change it from whatever it is now.
Hi Jasmine, tanks a lot for this vids, they help a lot to me be cause I'm a beginer, could you recomend me link or something were I can understand what gain, sensitivity, etc. of the gyro means, I really apreciate, thanks again
@thatonebeone I don't have a 780 so I can't be sure, but it seems similar.
True. Those gyros bug me because they always reset after every flight, so you have to trim the machine every time if the gyro doesn't center properly. Most of the time it works good, but sometimes it doesn't. I prefer to keep things as simple as possible, and it's much easier to try several different servo arms to get the right one, than to introduce complexity into your radio settings. That's why I give the advice I give - not because it's impossible, but because it's complicated.
@FlyGuyRc If direction is set to NOR and the helicopter spins out like crazy, then the direction needs to be set to REV, or vice versa - it is correcting the wrong way and making the spinning worse instead of stopping it.
@FlyGuyRc
The other thing is normal, I promise. When you push the stick and the helicopter doesn't move, the gyro doesn't understand why, so it "tries harder" eventually moving the servo all the way to one side. When you let go of the stick, and the helicopter isn't moving, the gyro thinks everything is perfect because the commanded piro rate (zero) equals actual piro rate (zero), and it won't move the servo in that case, even if it's all the way to one side. This is how the heading hold works.
Oh that's good... sometimes it's hard to explain, but I guess you got it.
There are some reports of bad tail servos that pull too much juice and fry the ESC. Also one report of a bad ESC... call your dealer and see if they can replace the bad parts for you. It is worth it to get this little thing going :)
Sub-trim sends an off-center signal to the gyro. The gyro can not tell if this signal is being sent by sub-trim, or if the pilot has moved the stick off-center. Some gyros, like the GY401, will reset the center when they are powered up, and it's ok to use sub-trim in that case, as long as you re-bind your receiver so the gyro gets that off-center signal right away on power-up. This is covered in the GY401 manual - but this video is not about the GY401.
whats the mixer and how would i set it? also thank you very much for helping me i appreciate it
@zupin000 - sounds like a problem with the receiver, or the ESC.
Back off the voltage to 5.5... the servo may not be able to handle 6. I run a BEC on my 250 now, so I don't have any issues like that - still run 5.5V though.
Thanks. Will check on all, maybe find it in one of what you mention.
Yet, still there is another strange thing going on: while the ESC is initialising at startup, each Biptone has a simultanious move of the 9257. Some kind of impulse is getting straight through. So i wonder if any electronic device has a defect or is it interfernce between 2 of them due to the thight space!?
@gfb05 I am not sure... perhaps you have the rudder channel reversed. For setup, it needs to be normal.
@jasmine2501 Hi Jasmine and thanks for making these vids! I don't understand most of it yet but I'm learning. One thing though... as someone who flys ( sim ) mostly piro moves, an inconsistant piro rate can really throw a wrench into the works. A piro change during a p-funnel knocks me out of sync with cyclic stir w/ no time to correct. Can you suggest a gyro for 250, 450 sizes which can set an absolute deg/sec piro rate? I just got a Spartan DS760... would that do the trick? Thanks much!
New parts can have problems. The DS420 servo is known for burning out. Sounds like maybe you need a different one. I don't use the one I got with my T-250 - switched it for a JR DS290G. For a 400-class heli, I think really a bigger servo is appropriate - I use a JR DS3400G on mine.
Still new but will this be similar to setting up my 780GP on my pro? Thanks for the vid
I think that one is still considered a small heli - but you should probably check it both ways and see what makes it fly better.
@gfb05 Sorry I accidentally deleted your other comment, but I think possibly you aren't getting a proper connection. Plug a servo directly into the rudder channel and make sure it's working.
I have one more :s , do you know what to change if the blades are not rotated enough in order to lift? With throtle stick in top blades are just paralel to the ground and with stick lower they do rotate much (like for decreasing altitude)
Do I have to unscrew and rotate the blades holders at the very top of the heli? That part came mounted so I dont know ...
Thanks for the help and videos.
This could happen if your receiver isn't working right, or the gyro is plugged in wrong. Make sure the 3-wire plug is in the rudder channel, and the single-wire plug is in the gear channel.
@1961westy No I tried the marriage thing once and it was not a good thing. These helis can be confusing, but they are logical, well-defined systems, so if anything doesn't make sense, read until you figure it out. There is a reason for everything we do - you just have to find what it is :)
Well the mixer is where the motors plug in to. There should be two screws to adjust things. I'm not sure on that helicopter though. Try going to RCGroups and ask a question in the Beginner electric helis area. I would say try reading the manual but it's probably in Chinese :)
Did you solve it? I just installed a 750 on my trex 500. Some quick things to check: 1.) Connector position. white/yellow signal wire should face to middle. 2.) On Tx set rudder expo or rate = 0%. 3.) No EPA(end point adjust) on rudder channel. Good luck.
More FYI's on this. I'm begrudgingly using, cuz lost my favorite GY401. The GP750 is very sensitive to mounting. Must be "soft" like the original tape. My double stick tape was rigid. Resulting in small tail twitching. I'm running: Trex 500 w/DS-620 tail servo. Zero Delay. 20% gain. BTW the connection to servo is "flimsy". Guarantee to disconnect on piros. Use dental floss trick to secure.
Go watch my radio setup video. It explains a procedure for getting the reversing and the swash mixing all correct. Basically, you do the reversing first and get the collective to move all three together, then do the mixing so things go in the right directions.
@yjoem1 Could be lots of reasons. Not enough gain, bad rudder servo, bad linkage geometry, sticky bearings, blades on backwards, gyro reversed, tail belt twisted wrong, servo on backwards... LOL... check everything.
Yeah that's a good way to do it. Just make sure to re-initialize and check everything once again before you fly. Actually... check it every time you fly, just while you spool up, make sure it's going the right way, then take off :)
When I made this video, I reversed something and when I went to fly again, the rudder was backwards, so it's a good thing I check it every time!
hey Jasmine, I have done all what you said for the gyro setting, however, when I try to fly it the tail keeps going to the right. I am using a KDS k7x transmiter...I dont really know what to do, I have done everything...would you have any idea? Cheers Juan
Jasmine, can you help me a bit please?
I have Spektrum DX6i and T-rex 450 SE.
I dont know if I have to reverse any of the 3 gyros in front, the way I see it moved it has an inverted move when I go left/right.
I am lost :) Do you know where I should look for help about this?
i just bought a used feda dragonfly and when i give it throttle it spins to the counter clockwise i have the trim alway to the right also to prevent it but its not enough it still spins. is anything wrong or am i doin something wrong?
@raymondx1232 Probly shoulda read the comments before saying that, AGAIN :)
I'm well aware of what is possible, but it isn't advisable - it leads to a whole bunch of problems down the road, and some of them can be safety issues. It is best to do it without subtrim - possible to do it with subtrim, but the things you have to watch out for are too complicated to explain in a short video. So it's easier to just say don't do it. Can't believe I have to explain that again.
Sorry noob question. If you shouldn't use rudder subtrim how do you adjust for slight spinning?
That should be fine. Mine is a little crooked too :)
When you set the limit and move your stick ... is it normal to show green on one end and red on the other end?
Thanks.
Now I set the 3 to move all together up/down, but when I use the other stick to lean left/right the swashplate leans in oposite direction of the stick, is that normal?
FAJNA OPIS POLECAM !! ;)
Something is mechanically set up wrong, or the servos weren't centered correctly. Please go to helifreak web site and find the correct area for your helicopter and post a question and see if people can help you. Pictures and a specific description of the problem will really help.
Should be 5mm servo arm for the tail. 9257 servo is over-kill for this helicopter - the DS420 actually works just fine, as will the DS290G - bigger servos will just make it tail-heavy and do not really give any advantage. Sounds like you've just got too much servo arm though - many people do use the 9257 and it works, but IMO it's just too big for this helicopter. 9257 is so strong that it can actually hide a problem with the tail hub - make sure you have the new single-bearing tail hub.
part 2:
It does not move much till a certain point and than it spins like hell in an instant (i have my 250 attached to a turntable).
No matter how i set up my radio (DX7), i tried so many ways, it will not work.
I guess i have the wrong distance from Balllink to Servocenter.
I can not find this info in the Manual.
What distance is yours?
Or do you have any idea what might be the problem?
Little frustrated here.
Thanks for ANY help in advance!
Br
foxbearCH
The servo will not center in heading hold mode. Only in rate mode will it actually center. You don't control the servo directly - the gyro puts the servo wherever it feels is necessary.
Hello, my align gyro 780 doesn't power up. It's getting power from the receiver thou. What you think? The gyro or receiver?
probably the RX or the radio isn't programmed right, or the gain signal isn't in the right spot.
Tail wag is a sign of too much gain. It can be a mechanical issue, because a longer servo arm is same thing as increasing the gain. Servo arm should be 5mm at the most.
BTW: I do have the GY401 upsidedown and also 180° opposite to how i have it installed on my Protos - that should not be a problem, right?
Thank you so much for your help, i could not find any post in any forum that can help, so fare.
So THANKS!
Br
foxbearCH
An FYI for GP750 users. Make sure your tx rudder expo=0 and rate=100%. GP750 Limit setting may fail.. Most people fly with different expo or rate settings. To avoid problems, you must change expo/rate back to nominal. Now you can set limit on GP750. Then go back and reset expo/rate. This was driving me crazy. That's problem with any device relying on tx input.
Way to take that the wrong way... nicely done :)
Oh yeah, the servo horn length is the mechanical gain - too long is like having lots of gain, and you lose precision too.
Happens all the time. TH-cam was acting funky today.
Sounds like either the gyro is reversed, the belt is loose, the servo is weak, or the gain is wrong, or the gain is not plugged in right.
mulikow wuz here
Hi Jasmine :-) Do you still do these videos after all this time ? I am having problems with my GP 790. Do you know them ? Best regards, Tomas
I have no idea how that one works, if it's any different from this one.
Hi Jas 😊 Thanks for your reply 👍 I Got it all going now. It was my servo direktion that caused the matter 😜
Are you still into RC helicopteres ?
@@tomasandersen367 yes, but with all the FAA stuff I have really started to lose interest in it. I don't feel like we should have to get permission from the government for harmless fun.
Yeah it's kinda weird. The GY401 doesn't do that, but it would be stupid low gain anyway, and probably worthless.
My heli keeps wanting to do circles y?
No that's odd behavior, sounds like maybe you have the control and gain wires swapped.
you should allways allways allways set both your gains up so that they add up to 100 ALLWAYS
Well take a minute and think about what kind of people might be interested in this hobby...
that should not be a problem, cause i have a stepdown converter installed.
but thx
Oh I'm sorry... I was having a pretty bad day. I should just not respond to things when I have a migraine and the Vicodin isn't working! Sorry :)
Instead of being a sarcastic jerk, why don't you go try it. Put in sub-trim and watch the tail drift. Then re-bind and see if it fixes it. With the GY401, re-binding will fix the issue - the gyro re-calibrates to the subtrimmed position.