Well, considering you're not having a whispered conversation between you and Joshie, and it's not in Dolby 7.1 surround sound, and you're running an automotive repair shop and not a La-Z-Boy gallery, I think it's allowed. Thanks for the Monday evening pick-me-up!
Hey Eric try using a heat inductor on the base of the bolt. I’m in Ohio. I heat them up 2 to 3 times and let the heat transfer through the bolt then hit it one time cherry red and impact it out. Has worked well for me. Although I know New York is on another level even over ohio when it comes to salt.
Yeah, even if you are lucky enough to have a house with reasonable property taxes, tack on 2-5 grand for heating oil/propane and forget about keeping your beloved car for more than 10 years. What am I doing in NY?
I live in an european equivalent of the rust belt and such things like bolts seized up in bushings are on daily basis. However european cars don't rust away that fast. Even the cheap-o makes like Fiat do hold up pretty well with age. I have a Stilo which is 19 years old right now, has 260 thousand km on the odometer and the only thing I had to repair body-wise was the rocker panels (here we call them underdoor thresholds or simply the thresholds). Just changed them to new ones and the car is good as new. All the underside and the frame rails are rust free, partially because of a good anti-rust coating. It's just those bolts that can give you a headache one a while, especially if you don't have a torch handy 😁
This is what I love about Eric's work. He can diagnose the most sensitive electrical issue and deal with skinned knuckle, rust belt madness at the same time. Hard to find a mechanic like this. Josh is very lucky to come up under his guidance.
I am a Subaru tech in Ohio. Get the bolt hot, Vice grip the top half of the bushing and let your impact hammer it until the rubber is torn away from the metal sleeve by the Vice grips. Get the bolt hot again and Vice grip the exposed metal sleeve. Impact it again and it has always come loose for me and other technicians that I’ve shared this method with.
Yup - not on a Subaru, but my control arm bolts were fused in the bushing and I cut the bolts with a Diablo blade. That blade cuts fast and holds up. And they have shorties for tight spaces. I'm so jealous of those desert cars with 40 year old fasteners that come off like new.
States in line with Colorado and farther West don't have the problems you guys deal with. I'm amazed at how quickly the salt and the moisture ruin vehicles In your neck of the woods.
Oh yeah.....easy peasy. Haha, right. That's gotta be one of the biggest nightmare jobs for us diy'ers. Hopefully it never happens to me! Great video...... good to see some carnage for a change. Love seeing you tackle these tough ones
Tip for anyone watching on their TV through the Roku TH-cam app and have very low audio... Pause the video, go to the little gear symbol for the settings in the menu, find 5.1 Surround and uncheck the box. Had very low audio in his videos for the past few videos and unchecking that box fixed the problem.
I tend to think of the sawzall or other saw first, and only if I get irritated with that, I break out the torch or plasma cutter. It makes sense to use the torch, since you will need to heat the bolt, too. The problem I have is that I often end up cutting things that should not have been cut, and then have to clean, weld, and paint that damage before I can put the new stuff on. Your torch skills are inspiring.
Sure is nice to have a 2nd guy when the rough stuff starts. Just got done pulling rusted on height adjustment bushings on a 7' finish mower. My son had stopped by and helped heat and beat. Had to torch slot a couple of the more stubborn ones. Done in a fraction of the time I could have done it alone.
Good ole SMA video for breakfast. Nothing better Your videos remind me of why I moved out of CT. many years where the blue wrench was the first tool you pick up
You boys are amazing thats all I got to say, not to rag on rainman ray but them boys that don't deal with rust have no idea how to tangle with it. And you guys just gave it the two piece with a side of Slaw and the fight was over before she started. Great work !
I just watched a guy change a 2002 Toyota Tundra lower control arm and he tried a bunch of Sawzall blades. The Diablo Carbide was to only blade that didn't dull. At ~$21 a piece they ain't cheap, but he went through 5 Lenox blades and only got about half way through one bolt/sleeve. Diablo (carbide) is the way to go!
So weird that you mentioned Project Farm. I’m currently in a Project Farm rabbit hole. Stooped just long enough to watch this video and I’m back again. Next up impact batteries.
Ah nothing like the smell of burning rubber to start your day. Another fine design by the engineers at Subaru. Nice job not setting the customer's car on fire. Thanks for the tip about the cut off wheels.
I particularly liked the way Eric grabbed the vicegrips at the very last second. I was so-o scared just waiting for the vicegrips and the redhot tubing to tumble down and burn somebody's hand or arm once the bolt was out. good job!
I've learned a lot from your channel, and applied it at work. Thank you for sharing your knowledge. One of the few channels that have good information. People always ask me if i watch Scotty 🤬.
Project Farm, another one of my favorites. Along with SMA, Torque Test Channel, Vehcor, Letsdig18, and Cutting Edge Engineering. Oops! Can't forget Paul Harrell.
Had to do this on my 07 accord. The bushing is on the front instead of the back like the Subaru. Used a sawzall. Much swearing was dispensed. Pain in the butt. Lathered the bolt holes of the new lca with anti-seize. If there is a next time I hope that helps. I cry watching those 1 hour Southern videos to do this job, so easy.
I like the brute force method. Sometimes you try more conventional methods and waste a lot time eventually having to get into the rough stuff. Key Learning: If it looks bad, go rough immediately. Good work and emphasis on the decision process by SMA. Very helpful as always.
What i found to work is to heat soak the head and threaded part. Heat them both up to just glowing and let it sink in through the bolt. A couple times usually will free it up enough to get it out
Thanks you just relived my fears, same bolt, same problem. Tomorrow I'm picking up the bolts from my Subaru dealers part department and stopping at home depot for diablo blades.
Hi Eric and the lovely Mrs.O., I have an old fire extinguisher in the garage it's the good kind that can be refilled. I unscrewed the top and filled it with water then put a schrader valve on it and put the air to it ,I use it for welding and cutting.
GREAT JOB. Did the same to my 2010, but used a whizzer wheel to cut the arm. Had to disconnect the front mount to allow it to rotate to make my second cut in the arm. Salt sucks, but I also don't like the severe heat of the south LOL.
I've run into this 'welded bushing' problem a few times before. Mainly on mitsubishi lower rear arms, the ones that have the egg shaped bolts, for camber adjustment. Absolute pig to get out. You made it look easy
If your doing this outside get a hose and when you get it good and red cool it off with lots of water from garden hose. The rust will turn into powder and you should be able to zip that bolt right off. Saves buying a bolt and spacer if you cut it off. Well worth a try.
Best remedy: Raspberry kool-aid powder mixed with Vaseline. Coat the bushing and let sit for 24 hours. Then torch it off just as you did. Sometimes I think its faster just torching it, so good job.
Love your videos and excellent information. We've had problems hearing you sometimes (microphone issue maybe)?? Don't want to miss anything.. We love you and beautiful Mrs. O... Always look forward to her smiling face and sweet talk between you.. ❤❤
I had one of the rear bolts that go through the sway bar bracket snap off on a fusion it ended up adding an extra 45 minutes to the job that’s always nice
Kia Hyundai and Nissan, yes. But only Subaru if you get it brand new, and only with a manual, and you keep that shit fluid filmed it's entire life. If it doesn't meet those three criterion, then yea, no subaru either lmao
I really enjoy this videos, but all of Eric’s because he’s always walking us though the problems and how to actually do repairs when things aren’t working
Just did this on a 2008 Toyota matrix. Less access than this Subaru. The rear bolt faced down and came half way out and then lodged. So I was able to get a pickle fork under the washer and a 4' extension pipe to pull down on the bolt after using tons of PB Blaster and attempting to cut. Used Bosch "Thick Metal" blades which didn't cut at first, but I believe was due to the fact that I wasn't holding the bolt still from the bottom so the bolt was wiggling as I tried to cut. I was working alone and couldn't hold the sawzall with my teeth and hold the bolt at the same time. In the process of cutting I tried the pickle fork and it came the rest of the way out. After getting the bolt out I put it in the bench vice and the Bosch blade cut it pretty well. So HOLD THAT BOLT STILL. Funny I did this job last weekend before SMA posted this vid and I specifically looked here to see if he had done a control arm bolt like this and there was nothing.. now here it is two days later. LOL. I don't have a torch so wouldn't have mattered, and I had learned about the better blade on another video. After burning up a half dozen lesser blades. The bolt is a grade 11, and $13 each at the Toyota dealer.
A 19mm harmonic balancer socket from Lisle goes a long way in getting those control arm bolts out. The socket has extra mass that seems to transfer energy better. Those Subie sub-frames are on intergalactic backorder. We've been putting used ones in when they get crispy like that one.
My DIY advanced by leaps and bounds when I finally added welders and torches to the shop. You can't get there all at once. But good god some of the past struggles without the heat tools!
I just took some exhaust studs out yesterday - first time using an acetylene torch. I don't think there was any possible way they would've come out without the hot wrench. Even after heating the surrounding area cherry red, they squealed and squeaked the whole way out turning them with vice grips. The first one I tried heating the MAP gas - it just laughed at me and the bolt twisted off. There was enough left to grind flats for the vice grips to grip, and well Terry the Torch had the last laugh on that one!
I had a 2010 outback that needed lower arms and a subframe, thanks rust. It had the stuck bolt and I just left the arms on the subframe and changed it all at once.
My service advisor never gets the control arm sold so I always end up digging the bushing out with a drill bit without cutting the arm and I press a new bushing in. A pain but it is cheaper in the end
Sorry about the noise in the back ground but we had the exhaust fan on because burning rubber stinks 👍🏼
Well, considering you're not having a whispered conversation between you and Joshie, and it's not in Dolby 7.1 surround sound, and you're running an automotive repair shop and not a La-Z-Boy gallery, I think it's allowed.
Thanks for the Monday evening pick-me-up!
Hey Eric try using a heat inductor on the base of the bolt. I’m in Ohio. I heat them up 2 to 3 times and let the heat transfer through the bolt then hit it one time cherry red and impact it out. Has worked well for me. Although I know New York is on another level even over ohio when it comes to salt.
Better than listening to you guys hack up a lung from the nastiness! Don't worry bout it Mr O.
I didn't even notice.
Eric check your volume its low for past couple videos.
You can always spot an experienced sizzle stick operator by how he re-lights off the hot metal.
That was some smooth re-lighting!
Was just going to come in here and say that.
I just snorted out my coffee...
@@steveharleyfan That won't relight your torch.
That's a neat party trick!
Videos like this just remind me of how glad I am that I don’t live anywhere near the rust belt.
Yeah, even if you are lucky enough to have a house with reasonable property taxes, tack on 2-5 grand for heating oil/propane and forget about keeping your beloved car for more than 10 years. What am I doing in NY?
I live in an european equivalent of the rust belt and such things like bolts seized up in bushings are on daily basis. However european cars don't rust away that fast. Even the cheap-o makes like Fiat do hold up pretty well with age. I have a Stilo which is 19 years old right now, has 260 thousand km on the odometer and the only thing I had to repair body-wise was the rocker panels (here we call them underdoor thresholds or simply the thresholds). Just changed them to new ones and the car is good as new. All the underside and the frame rails are rust free, partially because of a good anti-rust coating. It's just those bolts that can give you a headache one a while, especially if you don't have a torch handy 😁
You should be. It a nightmare.
Amen lol
Left NY in 2009, miss my family but love my cars more.
Great job as always.
This is what I love about Eric's work. He can diagnose the most sensitive electrical issue and deal with skinned knuckle, rust belt madness at the same time. Hard to find a mechanic like this. Josh is very lucky to come up under his guidance.
Project Farm has a superb channel! His testing methods are great!
Telling viewers which tools you use is a great service lots of backyard mechanics don't get exposed to all the great tools..
I am a Subaru tech in Ohio. Get the bolt hot, Vice grip the top half of the bushing and let your impact hammer it until the rubber is torn away from the metal sleeve by the Vice grips. Get the bolt hot again and Vice grip the exposed metal sleeve. Impact it again and it has always come loose for me and other technicians that I’ve shared this method with.
Yup - not on a Subaru, but my control arm bolts were fused in the bushing and I cut the bolts with a Diablo blade. That blade cuts fast and holds up. And they have shorties for tight spaces. I'm so jealous of those desert cars with 40 year old fasteners that come off like new.
States in line with Colorado and farther West don't have the problems you guys deal with. I'm amazed at how quickly the salt and the moisture ruin vehicles In your neck of the woods.
When the thumbnail is on fire you know it's about to get real.
Love a video when the "gas axe" makes an appearance.
Eric, I love that you reference other channels like Project Farm which I watch all the time and also the Rainmam Ray.
Straight up surgical procedure right there boys! Good shout out to Project Farm there at the end. Next to SMA he's one of my favorite channels 👍
Oh yeah.....easy peasy. Haha, right. That's gotta be one of the biggest nightmare jobs for us diy'ers. Hopefully it never happens to me! Great video...... good to see some carnage for a change. Love seeing you tackle these tough ones
Love the project farm shout out! Todd does an awesome job just like you!
I love how you know I’m at home crying “But Mr. O, I don’t have a torch. What can I do?” And then you answer me. Thanks for the video.
I love that all my favorite channels watch each other too. South main auto, torque test channel, project farm and AvE
Tip for anyone watching on their TV through the Roku TH-cam app and have very low audio... Pause the video, go to the little gear symbol for the settings in the menu, find 5.1 Surround and uncheck the box. Had very low audio in his videos for the past few videos and unchecking that box fixed the problem.
Thank you your comment should be at the top thanks 😊
wow. that worked perfectly. thanks for the tip.
...hmmm...I'm not having the low audio problem with other videos...just SMA, but I'll give it the settings trick a try...thanks. 🙂
I tend to think of the sawzall or other saw first, and only if I get irritated with that, I break out the torch or plasma cutter. It makes sense to use the torch, since you will need to heat the bolt, too. The problem I have is that I often end up cutting things that should not have been cut, and then have to clean, weld, and paint that damage before I can put the new stuff on. Your torch skills are inspiring.
Sure is nice to have a 2nd guy when the rough stuff starts.
Just got done pulling rusted on height adjustment bushings on a 7' finish mower. My son had stopped by and helped heat and beat. Had to torch slot a couple of the more stubborn ones. Done in a fraction of the time I could have done it alone.
Good ole SMA video for breakfast. Nothing better
Your videos remind me of why I moved out of CT. many years where the blue wrench was the first tool you pick up
Love when the heat wrenches makes its way onto the scene!
You boys are amazing thats all I got to say, not to rag on rainman ray but them boys that don't deal with rust have no idea how to tangle with it. And you guys just gave it the two piece with a side of Slaw and the fight was over before she started. Great work !
I just watched a guy change a 2002 Toyota Tundra lower control arm and he tried a bunch of Sawzall blades. The Diablo Carbide was to only blade that didn't dull. At ~$21 a piece they ain't cheap, but he went through 5 Lenox blades and only got about half way through one bolt/sleeve. Diablo (carbide) is the way to go!
I'll have to check those out
Rubber bushings and tires are the automotive magic candles. 😂😂
Kudos to Josh for wearing gloves...
.Eric, "hold up, wait a minute....something ain't right!!"
So weird that you mentioned Project Farm. I’m currently in a Project Farm rabbit hole. Stooped just long enough to watch this video and I’m back again. Next up impact batteries.
the torch re-light moments were spot on….who needs a lighter when burning car parts will do….
Eric you make it look easy and Josh getting with it on the impact, nice job.
Ah nothing like the smell of burning rubber to start your day. Another fine design by the engineers at Subaru. Nice job not setting the customer's car on fire. Thanks for the tip about the cut off wheels.
I particularly liked the way Eric grabbed the vicegrips at the very last second. I was so-o scared just waiting for the vicegrips and the redhot tubing to tumble down and burn somebody's hand or arm once the bolt was out. good job!
I've learned a lot from your channel, and applied it at work. Thank you for sharing your knowledge.
One of the few channels that have good information.
People always ask me if i watch Scotty 🤬.
Good to see you are still imparting your knowledge & wisdom onto Josh. We don't see much of him any more, he is in the other half of your workshop.
5:04 I am always amazed how many stuck fasteners you have there in the rust belt. Josh knows how to use that impact!
Hey, I love "Project Farm" videos. They have the best test on TH-cam. Thanks for giving him a shout out. Great video, thanks
Project Farm, another one of my favorites. Along with SMA, Torque Test Channel, Vehcor, Letsdig18, and Cutting Edge Engineering. Oops! Can't forget Paul Harrell.
Greetings from Trinidad and Tobago 🇹🇹in the Caribbean, like your videos man, keep them coming.
Had to do this on my 07 accord. The bushing is on the front instead of the back like the Subaru. Used a sawzall. Much swearing was dispensed. Pain in the butt. Lathered the bolt holes of the new lca with anti-seize. If there is a next time I hope that helps. I cry watching those 1 hour Southern videos to do this job, so easy.
I like the brute force method. Sometimes you try more conventional methods and waste a lot time eventually having to get into the rough stuff. Key Learning: If it looks bad, go rough immediately. Good work and emphasis on the decision process by SMA. Very helpful as always.
Good comment!
Wow, that looks like a job best left to the pros like you & Josh. Beavis would have given this a Thumbs Up - "Fire, fire".
Thanks for mentioning Project Farm, the guy does a great job testing so many products.
What i found to work is to heat soak the head and threaded part.
Heat them both up to just glowing and let it sink in through the bolt.
A couple times usually will free it up enough to get it out
A flame wrench is an essential tool for situations such as these. Great job on explaining how to use it to simplify tough jobs like this!
The final segways are becoming my favourite. You know they're coming...
Thanks you just relived my fears, same bolt, same problem. Tomorrow I'm picking up the bolts from my Subaru dealers part department and stopping at home depot for diablo blades.
I love that you reference Project Farm. He's a great resource for product reviews!
Nice shout out to Project Farm. He's my go to guy for anything tool related.
For the number of TH-cam channels I watch regularly, I’m surprised at how often one gets referenced by another.
Good ole Victor. A tool box in itself!
That subframe definitely needed repair/replacing.
Good show Mr. O!
That subframe to steal a saying from CSW, definitely has some 'flavor'
That is an awful lot of helpful manliness going on there! Nice work Mr. O and Josh!
I love this video, this is the shit I go through every time I work on the front end of anything here in the rust belt....
Hi Eric and the lovely Mrs.O., I have an old fire extinguisher in the garage it's the good kind that can be refilled. I unscrewed the top and filled it with water then put a schrader valve on it and put the air to it ,I use it for welding and cutting.
A torch -- because it can't be stuck if it's a liquid. 🙂
Also -- I *love* Project Farm's videos! He's the best at showing which tools actually *work!*
Now that’s what working together looks like when two people know each other.
Between this channel, and project farm, i stay pretty informed.
GREAT JOB. Did the same to my 2010, but used a whizzer wheel to cut the arm. Had to disconnect the front mount to allow it to rotate to make my second cut in the arm. Salt sucks, but I also don't like the severe heat of the south LOL.
Lol I was waiting to see if you were gonna catch that ripping hot sleeve once the bolt backed out of it. Great reflexes!
Wife saw me listening and writing Diablo saw blades. She knows me . I think she’s going to send you a note 😂😂😂
Nice to see a shout-out to the guy at Project Farm! 😀
I really enjoyed watching this from Arizona.
Eric - success this time...! Reminded me of the original post headed ‘I thought it was just a bolt and a nut’...
That's right don't waste time on rusted bolts when you've got a pit barrel cooker waiting at home! You've convinced me I need one.
At home? I think he's got that bad boy right behind the shop.
@@wallingj68 th-cam.com/channels/8PwOuadwwI-G2oLRXn3sMA.html
its not hard to build your own, just need a 30 gallon drum, a grill grate or 2, some 1/2 inch rebar etc. Nice little project.
I've run into this 'welded bushing' problem a few times before. Mainly on mitsubishi lower rear arms, the ones that have the egg shaped bolts, for camber adjustment. Absolute pig to get out. You made it look easy
Your tips has saved me time and effort working on my 2 Subaru's here in Pittsburgh,PA.
If your doing this outside get a hose and when you get it good and red cool it off with lots of water from garden hose. The rust will turn into powder and you should be able to zip that bolt right off. Saves buying a bolt and spacer if you cut it off. Well worth a try.
Eric, you’re just fearless.
Best remedy: Raspberry kool-aid powder mixed with Vaseline. Coat the bushing and let sit for 24 hours. Then torch it off just as you did. Sometimes I think its faster just torching it, so good job.
Napalm?
I'd rather just coat it with chapstick.
@@cal4625
That almost never works unless you are left handed
I'm glad that I mainly work on southern vehicles. Thanks Eric!!
I watch Project Farm every Sunday when he puts up his new video's.
Thanks, now I can look forward to doing this on my son's 2018 WRX when the time comes. I'll have to use a sawzall.
SMA, you love Big Clive…. And now Project Farm… have we just become best friends!!
The diablo blades work amazing on everything I have tried them on so far metal brush , wood. Thanks for mentioning them.
Love your videos and excellent information. We've had problems hearing you sometimes (microphone issue maybe)?? Don't want to miss anything.. We love you and beautiful Mrs. O... Always look forward to her smiling face and sweet talk between you.. ❤❤
Eric/Josh,
Great video and fix - thank you. You guys are like superheros with what you can do!
SMA#1
Paul (in MA)
I had one of the rear bolts that go through the sway bar bracket snap off on a fusion it ended up adding an extra 45 minutes to the job that’s always nice
Nice shout out to Project Farm another fantastic TH-camr
You have a natural ability to make things look easy, even on your other channel. Mrs.O married well in my opinion.Course you did too. Thanks!
You always do a great job. I’ve learned a lot from watching your videos
I've learned never buy a Subaru
Don’t by Kia Hyundai Subaru or Nissan
Kia Hyundai and Nissan, yes. But only Subaru if you get it brand new, and only with a manual, and you keep that shit fluid filmed it's entire life. If it doesn't meet those three criterion, then yea, no subaru either lmao
Once you get the bushing down to the sleeve you can also hit the sleeve with the air hammer to release the bolt .
Teamwork makes the dreamwork
Oh man I just put a new tip on the torch last night and you always forget how well the torch works until you put a new tip on!
I really enjoy this videos, but all of Eric’s because he’s always walking us though the problems and how to actually do repairs when things aren’t working
Nice shoutout to Project Farm. I love his channel.
Good call on Project Farm! Todd does great real world tests, and has no sponsors.
@5:32, it's the good ole impact with wrench option. Used it many times to remove lower c/arm bolts on older GM's
That's the next thing I'm working on with my 07 jeep liberty the passenger side lower control arm bushings, great video Eric !
Fella - I love a SMA seized bolt video. Nice work as always, sir.
Just did this on a 2008 Toyota matrix. Less access than this Subaru. The rear bolt faced down and came half way out and then lodged. So I was able to get a pickle fork under the washer and a 4' extension pipe to pull down on the bolt after using tons of PB Blaster and attempting to cut. Used Bosch "Thick Metal" blades which didn't cut at first, but I believe was due to the fact that I wasn't holding the bolt still from the bottom so the bolt was wiggling as I tried to cut. I was working alone and couldn't hold the sawzall with my teeth and hold the bolt at the same time. In the process of cutting I tried the pickle fork and it came the rest of the way out. After getting the bolt out I put it in the bench vice and the Bosch blade cut it pretty well. So HOLD THAT BOLT STILL. Funny I did this job last weekend before SMA posted this vid and I specifically looked here to see if he had done a control arm bolt like this and there was nothing.. now here it is two days later. LOL. I don't have a torch so wouldn't have mattered, and I had learned about the better blade on another video. After burning up a half dozen lesser blades. The bolt is a grade 11, and $13 each at the Toyota dealer.
Always a good day when the torch makes a showing !
It can't be stuck if it's liquid... Love it. Greetings from Lake City 🇺🇸🌴😎
A 19mm harmonic balancer socket from Lisle goes a long way in getting those control arm bolts out. The socket has extra mass that seems to transfer energy better. Those Subie sub-frames are on intergalactic backorder. We've been putting used ones in when they get crispy like that one.
My DIY advanced by leaps and bounds when I finally added welders and torches to the shop.
You can't get there all at once. But good god some of the past struggles without the heat tools!
I just took some exhaust studs out yesterday - first time using an acetylene torch. I don't think there was any possible way they would've come out without the hot wrench. Even after heating the surrounding area cherry red, they squealed and squeaked the whole way out turning them with vice grips. The first one I tried heating the MAP gas - it just laughed at me and the bolt twisted off. There was enough left to grind flats for the vice grips to grip, and well Terry the Torch had the last laugh on that one!
Ol Brooksie was peeking out of his tool box drawer cheering on his buddy Vic!
Project Farm, second best TH-cam channel..
Ah....the old "It ain't stuck if it's liquid" wrench.
I had a 2010 outback that needed lower arms and a subframe, thanks rust. It had the stuck bolt and I just left the arms on the subframe and changed it all at once.
That subframe looks mint 👌
YA, LMAO.
My service advisor never gets the control arm sold so I always end up digging the bushing out with a drill bit without cutting the arm and I press a new bushing in. A pain but it is cheaper in the end
Good Lord.......I'm in Vegas and we don't have to do any of that..... Awesome as always.
You made my day. Glad you're staying busy. Keep them coming
Eric, the tips are always appreciated!
Great torch work...we use them in the south as well...and the sawzall too