I had the exact thing happen but I drill out most of the broken pinch bolt then pulled it out with an RBRT FOR remover. Tapped/cleaned the threads and used a new oem pinch bolt.
Not sure if you mentioned it in the video but it's important to emphasize for a bolt like that to use a class 10.9 or grade 8 nut and bolt. The usual grade 2 or 5 bolts from the hardware store are not made for a critical application like that where if it stretches even a tiny bit it can cause a wreck.
Dealing with the same situation. You have made an extremely valid point and is what I will put on my Outback, a higher grade bolt. That's why we are all in this situation... because Subaru decided to use cheap bolts on their production line of these vehicles it seems. Why Subaru, why?!?!
No problem buddy! It's a pretty common issue on all Subarus once they get older. Especially if you live in the Rust Belt. Honestly, I'm not sure why they don't just nut them all at the factory. It would probably only be a few bucks extra per unit.
From what I've seen of the Subaru ball joint, it has a groove all the way around the socket which is locked in place by the shaft of the pinch bolt. So even with the broken bolt, it was not being held just by rust.
What a pain, good job. A quick way to center your drill when the bolt is recessed is to start with a drill diameter that is exactly the same size as the bolt, and drill down about a millimeter. That produces a little cavity exactly in the center, so the first pilot bit will easily self center. It works even if the bolt surface is irregular from snapping off. From there it's just a matter of being exactly true.
This is a great fix, what length bolt did you use for the threw bolt. I'm about to do mine and want to have a bolt on hand just in case things go wrong.
Excellent! This achieves the exact desired result and its a DYI project without fancy tools and with an inexpensive bolt and nut... Come on, how much easier does it get! Great job! 37lb torque and done!
it is measured in light years. i am mustering up courage to go ahead and try my luck before the universum collapses on its self. if you feel the earth shake in a few moments. its just me banging my head on that devilish bolt so dont worry. just call an ambulance.
I used a M10x1.25 Thread Bolt with a 14mm head. Nut was 15mm. Depending on how large the hole is you drill you could need a bigger size. Key things to remember is you want to make sure you are using Grade 8 rated hardware or higher, and the Bolt needs to be long enough to come out the other end for the Nut (anywhere from 60-75mm for Length should be fine, I used 60mm). If you want to be doubly sure you can measure the width of the pinch joint and add the length of the nut you plan to use.
I’m spraying my pinche bolts with penetrant weeks before I even try to remove them. Maybe this way the oil will creep into the threads further. Plus don’t just try to sent it home and take it out in one shot. Loosen it a little then tighten it a little etc.
You might want to turn the bolt around. You’ll risk gumming up the threads from road debris or whatever is out there. Btw what was your approximate time for drilling?
I mean, it's going to go through a Wisconsin winter, so it's going to get gummed up with slush and salt either way. Definitely something to try though! Took me a couple of days to get the old bolt drilled out. Not that I'm the best at drilling through hardened steel by any means haha! Although, it is significantly more difficult to drill out bolts when they are still on the vehicle, and I might have also been a bit overly cautious trying to avoid snapping off any bits. If you were to remove the hub assembly and drill it on a bench (or better yet, a drill press), the drilling would go a lot faster/smoother. Of course, the risk of breaking other fasteners when removing the hub assembly, may or may not be worth it. The joys of working on vehicles in the rust belt!
If you want to try and fix it, better to fix it than leave it broken. But that bolt is completely rusted in and will hold your ball joint in for at least a while.
Hey fellas if you had a 2015 Legacy and both bolts broke regardless of what you tried to keep that from happening You really need to step back and wonder why would any Designer would utilize this weak link Over the many years I've seen plenty cars use a thru bolt with nut combo and it never failed..a simple lower control arm replacement ends up being a huge Monkey fuck for no good reason. I'm drilling it out and using grade 8 with locking nut..end of story.
best way to protect threads is to not use a bit too close to threads... (get a small fire blanket for a propane torch wrap around axle boot) Heat up the bolt then quick spray it with penetrant fluid... tap in an easy out and remove.... when it comes to mf'rs to remove, go with heat (just be careful of what's around what you're heating. Better yet, if you have the money buy an induction tool. They are magic.
my stealership changed the lower arms on a recall on my 05 forrester. well they used induction heaters but only managed to snap the pinch bolt head off. welded a nut on there and called it my problem as the ball joint was not on the recall.. They gave me the new balljoints and wished me luck :(
Yeah, if you look closely in some of my newer videos, you can see that the calipers are brand new. Had the dealer deal with that one though, so unfortunately no video. Seeing how rusted everything was down there, and how long it took to drill out just this bolt, I figured it was better for someone with shop insurance to take care of it. Sometimes my time is worth the expense haha!
I had the exact thing happen but I drill out most of the broken pinch bolt then pulled it out with an RBRT FOR remover. Tapped/cleaned the threads and used a new oem pinch bolt.
Not sure if you mentioned it in the video but it's important to emphasize for a bolt like that to use a class 10.9 or grade 8 nut and bolt. The usual grade 2 or 5 bolts from the hardware store are not made for a critical application like that where if it stretches even a tiny bit it can cause a wreck.
Dealing with the same situation. You have made an extremely valid point and is what I will put on my Outback, a higher grade bolt. That's why we are all in this situation... because Subaru decided to use cheap bolts on their production line of these vehicles it seems. Why Subaru, why?!?!
Dude, this is exactly what I'm dealing with on my 2008 Subaru Tribeca. Thank you for this.
No problem buddy! It's a pretty common issue on all Subarus once they get older. Especially if you live in the Rust Belt. Honestly, I'm not sure why they don't just nut them all at the factory. It would probably only be a few bucks extra per unit.
From what I've seen of the Subaru ball joint, it has a groove all the way around the socket which is locked in place by the shaft of the pinch bolt. So even with the broken bolt, it was not being held just by rust.
What a pain, good job. A quick way to center your drill when the bolt is recessed is to start with a drill diameter that is exactly the same size as the bolt, and drill down about a millimeter. That produces a little cavity exactly in the center, so the first pilot bit will easily self center. It works even if the bolt surface is irregular from snapping off. From there it's just a matter of being exactly true.
Definitely want to replace those bolts with a thru bolt if I get them out tomorrow, great idea!
You can use a drill bushing to get the drill started. Centers the first small drill bit.
This is a great fix, what length bolt did you use for the threw bolt. I'm about to do mine and want to have a bolt on hand just in case things go wrong.
Im about to attempt this tomorrow, will forsure be grabbing some thur bolts as a JIC before though haha. Great tip
Excellent! This achieves the exact desired result and its a DYI project without fancy tools and with an inexpensive bolt and nut... Come on, how much easier does it get! Great job! 37lb torque and done!
Just snapped the head off my pinch bolt and spend 8 hours trying to extract with no luck.
How long is the through bolt that you used?
Mine was 17 years old. I just bought a new steering knuckle. That fixed it.
Because of the seized up bolt or just because? Either way no headache lol
I just got a used one on ebay for 70
Exactamente!
But How long did it take? Was time measurable by a clock, calander, presidential terms?
it is measured in light years. i am mustering up courage to go ahead and try my luck before the universum collapses on its self. if you feel the earth shake in a few moments. its just me banging my head on that devilish bolt so dont worry. just call an ambulance.
What diameter and length bolt did you use? Asking for a friend. 😬
28ft-lbs? I googled the spec for my car and it said 90 and I broke it smh
Going through this on my 2006 Subaru Forester at the moment. Broke an easy out and had to grind that out too. Not a fun process.
Ok so where do we order this bolt? I want to replace mine for good measure just did lower control arms.
any current updates on the safety and how the car rides from anyone that also did this, OP included?
What size bolt and nut did you use?
I used a M10x1.25 Thread Bolt with a 14mm head. Nut was 15mm. Depending on how large the hole is you drill you could need a bigger size. Key things to remember is you want to make sure you are using Grade 8 rated hardware or higher, and the Bolt needs to be long enough to come out the other end for the Nut (anywhere from 60-75mm for Length should be fine, I used 60mm). If you want to be doubly sure you can measure the width of the pinch joint and add the length of the nut you plan to use.
Where do you get the torque specs for the through bolt and nut?
What size was the biggest drill bit you used? If you can recall?
I just did this on my 2009 Forester. The biggest size I used was 3/8 inch.
how long is the new through bolt? which quality do i need for that screw?
grade 8 should be strong enough.. its not really doing enything else than pinching the ears to clamp the balljoint.
Good shit!!! I have to do this eventually on my forester that’s if I can’t find a knuckle 🙄
I’m spraying my pinche bolts with penetrant weeks before I even try to remove them. Maybe this way the oil will creep into the threads further. Plus don’t just try to sent it home and take it out in one shot. Loosen it a little then tighten it a little etc.
Did you end up breaking it?
You might want to turn the bolt around. You’ll risk gumming up the threads from road debris or whatever is out there. Btw what was your approximate time for drilling?
I mean, it's going to go through a Wisconsin winter, so it's going to get gummed up with slush and salt either way. Definitely something to try though! Took me a couple of days to get the old bolt drilled out. Not that I'm the best at drilling through hardened steel by any means haha! Although, it is significantly more difficult to drill out bolts when they are still on the vehicle, and I might have also been a bit overly cautious trying to avoid snapping off any bits. If you were to remove the hub assembly and drill it on a bench (or better yet, a drill press), the drilling would go a lot faster/smoother. Of course, the risk of breaking other fasteners when removing the hub assembly, may or may not be worth it. The joys of working on vehicles in the rust belt!
Just curious as to how the through bolt and nut has held up after this repair. Seems maybe a little sketchy but it also seems like it could work. Ha.
if you use a self locking NUT it is better than the original setup. but the diameter should be tight as possible for the hole.
Did you use a 3/8 bolt?
If you want to try and fix it, better to fix it than leave it broken. But that bolt is completely rusted in and will hold your ball joint in for at least a while.
great video-showed me exactly what I need to do-thank you SO much!
Curious as to how this held up? May do mine like this today
A little less than 10k miles in and so far, so good. It's a pretty common fix, as most Subarus in the rust belt will eventually experience this issue.
That pinch is still there on the 2020-2024 Outbacks lol
Hey fellas if you had a 2015 Legacy and both bolts broke regardless of what you tried to keep that from happening You really need to step back and wonder why would any Designer would utilize this weak link Over the many years I've seen plenty cars use a thru bolt with nut combo and it never failed..a simple lower control arm replacement ends up being a huge Monkey fuck for no good reason. I'm drilling it out and using grade 8 with locking nut..end of story.
This helped alot thanks
I break these first with a racthet wd40 soaked or what ever works best then take off the spindle and impact it
Subscirbed, unfortunately I have to drill mine out too. Thanks for this video!!!!
No safety goggle, no gloves, good job!
Are you trolling???? It's great he made the vid
Yeah, that wouldn’t be a Subaru if it wasn’t leaking out oil pretty normal
best way to protect threads is to not use a bit too close to threads... (get a small fire blanket for a propane torch wrap around axle boot) Heat up the bolt then quick spray it with penetrant fluid... tap in an easy out and remove.... when it comes to mf'rs to remove, go with heat (just be careful of what's around what you're heating. Better yet, if you have the money buy an induction tool. They are magic.
my stealership changed the lower arms on a recall on my 05 forrester. well they used induction heaters but only managed to snap the pinch bolt head off. welded a nut on there and called it my problem as the ball joint was not on the recall.. They gave me the new balljoints and wished me luck :(
You don't want to heat any suspension parts, it will most likely take the temper out, and they will be more prone to breaking / cracking.
Pitch bolt is 37 foot pounds
Yea no 36.7 lol no one cares where his tires going.
looks like you might need some calipers look at the inside of that rotor lol
Yeah, if you look closely in some of my newer videos, you can see that the calipers are brand new. Had the dealer deal with that one though, so unfortunately no video. Seeing how rusted everything was down there, and how long it took to drill out just this bolt, I figured it was better for someone with shop insurance to take care of it. Sometimes my time is worth the expense haha!
All your anti-seize went onto the shanks of your bolts and not the threads.
Ya know if you turned that camera around, we could see your drip 😏
You need some easy outs to remove it.
Must have took u 5 hors to drill scrap that go to junk yard or order a new cheap one from ebay.
Uh uh uh uh uh uh uh uh uh
Subaru ball joints are one of the biggest PITA repairs. Terrible design.