At 177K on my 2014 Forester getting ready to put my 2nd replacement LCA on the front left. Replacing the Mevotech that has a lifetime warranty (not qualified for warranty because I am not a Certified pro tech... read the fine print) It only lasted 4 years. Knock on wood my right front replacement is a Moog and has held up so far. Same exact symptom, jutter at 68 - 72 mph on the expressway with the slightest turn of the wheel. In the left (fast) lane its worse as the highway is pitched to cause rain to flow off the highway to the left. In the far right lane it acts up much less as that lane is pitched the opposite direction. Your struggle to get the ball joint seated into the knuckle can be far lessened if you start with the new LCA by putting the ball joint into the knuckle first and tightening the pinch bolt tight enough so it will not drop out but not to spec so you can still manipulate the LCA, then insert the link to the tab and work your way toward the center of the vehicle putting it back together as man handling and getting your bolts through the other two connection points\bushings is generally easier than the ball joint that wants to move under pressure and possibly start to go in cock-eyed. Also at least in the rust belt here in the Chicagoland area be careful when removing the pinch bolt from the knuckle. I had the pinch bolt snap off on one side and had to replace the entire knuckle, wheel bearings etc. NOT the result I wanted.
My crosstek has a clicking sound when turning, I had the cv axles checked and they look great. The lower control arm bushings are very worn probably 30% torn. Could this be causing the clicking sound.
I get a similar sound when driving over 60, it goes away if I drive on the left lane, probably because the incline is relieving the pressure on whatever is causing it. I checked the wheels and there's no play. Any Idea ?
It sounds potentially similar to this issue. When you say checked the wheels for play, I suspect you mean you jacked it up and wiggled them. That wasn't enough to find this defect. I had it high in the air and thoroughly Inspected control arm bushings, then flexed with a long pry bar. I'm not sure you inspection was adequate to check the control arm bushings.
@@paulkelley86 " I suspect you mean you jacked it up and wiggled them." correct ;>) I even took it for wheel balancing just in case, but in vain . I will probably go to a repair shop and have them look at the control arms. Thank you.
@@MarquisVonLion I did jack it up and wiggle, but found nothing. When I brought it to work and put it on the lift is when I really located the issue. You may be able to see the bushings yourself. P.S. Id probably skip the balance check, turning would have no effect on balance. Good luck, I bet you will get it figured out.
@@paulkelley86 Thank you;>) PS: I used to work as a machinist ( I'm retired now ;>) do you you think I could handle this kind of work with basic tools?
@L110508 nothing on the control arm is adjustable, so in theory it should not NEED an alignment, but it is recommended to do an alignment after a suspension part change. If it were an adjustable control arm, it would NEED an alignment because when we install it we can't be sure we have it in the original adjustment position. Also it would have no bearing on the rear, but as a maintenance recommendation to prolong the tires I would do a 4 wheel opposed to a front. Recommended.
@@paulkelley86 I just did mine yesterday, fixed up the alignment, made the take off better(I thought it was the tranny), gas should be better. Overall everything is working great now
At 177K on my 2014 Forester getting ready to put my 2nd replacement LCA on the front left. Replacing the Mevotech that has a lifetime warranty (not qualified for warranty because I am not a Certified pro tech... read the fine print) It only lasted 4 years. Knock on wood my right front replacement is a Moog and has held up so far. Same exact symptom, jutter at 68 - 72 mph on the expressway with the slightest turn of the wheel. In the left (fast) lane its worse as the highway is pitched to cause rain to flow off the highway to the left. In the far right lane it acts up much less as that lane is pitched the opposite direction. Your struggle to get the ball joint seated into the knuckle can be far lessened if you start with the new LCA by putting the ball joint into the knuckle first and tightening the pinch bolt tight enough so it will not drop out but not to spec so you can still manipulate the LCA, then insert the link to the tab and work your way toward the center of the vehicle putting it back together as man handling and getting your bolts through the other two connection points\bushings is generally easier than the ball joint that wants to move under pressure and possibly start to go in cock-eyed. Also at least in the rust belt here in the Chicagoland area be careful when removing the pinch bolt from the knuckle. I had the pinch bolt snap off on one side and had to replace the entire knuckle, wheel bearings etc. NOT the result I wanted.
This makes me feel good about the Moog I just bought.
My crosstek has a clicking sound when turning, I had the cv axles checked and they look great. The lower control arm bushings are very worn probably 30% torn. Could this be causing the clicking sound.
Existe una herramienta especial para expandir y la rotula entra sin hacer fuerza.
Thanks for holding the camera still
I get a similar sound when driving over 60, it goes away if I drive on the left lane, probably because the incline is relieving the pressure on whatever is causing it. I checked the wheels and there's no play. Any Idea ?
It sounds potentially similar to this issue. When you say checked the wheels for play, I suspect you mean you jacked it up and wiggled them. That wasn't enough to find this defect. I had it high in the air and thoroughly Inspected control arm bushings, then flexed with a long pry bar.
I'm not sure you inspection was adequate to check the control arm bushings.
@@paulkelley86 " I suspect you mean you jacked it up and wiggled them." correct ;>) I even took it for wheel balancing just in case, but in vain . I will probably go to a repair shop and have them look at the control arms. Thank you.
@@MarquisVonLion I did jack it up and wiggle, but found nothing. When I brought it to work and put it on the lift is when I really located the issue. You may be able to see the bushings yourself.
P.S. Id probably skip the balance check, turning would have no effect on balance. Good luck, I bet you will get it figured out.
@@paulkelley86 Thank you;>)
PS: I used to work as a machinist ( I'm retired now ;>) do you you think I could handle this kind of work with basic tools?
did it need 4 wheel alignment after you replaced the lower control arm?
@L110508 nothing on the control arm is adjustable, so in theory it should not NEED an alignment, but it is recommended to do an alignment after a suspension part change.
If it were an adjustable control arm, it would NEED an alignment because when we install it we can't be sure we have it in the original adjustment position.
Also it would have no bearing on the rear, but as a maintenance recommendation to prolong the tires I would do a 4 wheel opposed to a front. Recommended.
@@paulkelley86 thank you.
@@paulkelley86 I just did mine yesterday, fixed up the alignment, made the take off better(I thought it was the tranny), gas should be better. Overall everything is working great now
Thanks just did 2018 passenger side
Very helpful video
I replaced the rubber bushing with a polyurethane bushing a little bit firmer but worth it.
What bushing was it?
Super pro bushings
another video sggested install ball joint end 1st = makes aignment easier.