What a great video! The detailed instructions on marking your bolts/thread line, torque all bolts, and actually using locktite on every bolt are instructions that everyone needs to live by.
I'm changing out my struts, shocks, and installing a new adjustable panhard bar next week on my 2013 Mustang v6. You have the best, most detailed, and well thought out video on the whole process. Thank you so much for making what I expected to be a three day minimum job into an easy diy project. P.S. I appreciate you explaining how and why to mark the suspension parts. My Haynes manual says to do the same thing, but makes no mention of the reasoning behind it.
@@mcgurrentertainment Finished up everything yesterday afternoon. All in all it went smoothly. Took 1-1/2 days to complete, mainly due to the fact that I had to use penetrating oil on most of the nut/bolt assemblies and I'm lazing about on vacation. Thanks again for the great tutorial. Also wanted to mention, since the passenger side shock is what creates that weird angle on the panhard bar nut, I went ahead and replaced the panhard bar after removing the shocks and then replaced the shocks.
amazing video. i was gonna take it to the shop but im motivated to do it myself now. also explaning the issues when you dont get the panhard bar really helped me understand it
This is a GREAT video. Well produced, detailed and informative. Narration is up best and to the point. I don't think I can expect anything better. Thanks for sharing your experience and knowledge. I will be using this guide for my project very soon.
I bought my son a 2010 GT for his high school graduation gift. The car is overall in great shape with some typical issues for it's age and the idea was to be something we could work on together. There's a clunking noise coming from the front end when hitting bumps and some steering wheel vibration at about 65mph. Figured we just go ahead and replace all the front suspension parts and was thinking of doing some lowering springs on it while we were there so this vid helps out alot for that. The car also has an issue with the door ajar indicator staying on saying both doors and trunk are ajar. I've seen where the sensors in the doors causes that issue but that they also make the window go down some when the door is open then close the window when the door closes. And both doors function properly in that regard so I'm not sure as to how it could be the sensor or that the sensor partially works if that makes sense? Interior light stays on while driving until the battery drain preventor kicks in and turns them on. The keyfob works to lock and unlock the car and it has the 2 honks on lock alerting me that something is ajar. The interior door lock switches aren't working as well. So I'm kinda stumped as to what could be the issue. Any ideas would be greatly appreciated.
Could be a few items. Start with the easiest items first. Check Fuse 17 (20A) first. Next, check the luggage compartment circuit; open the trunk and close it to make sure it's latched. After the easy checks, you'll have to pull out a meter and start troubleshooting.
I finally had the confidence to tackle this job solely because how clear your video was, thank you! I’m done with the front, rear will be tomorrow. Question: The 21mm nut at the very top, I matched my threads to where they were stock like you showed, but I noticed the nut was still loose after I installed everything, so i tightened it up after everything was torqued down and installed. Is this ok?
Thank you!!! The strut rod nut should be tightened to approximately 76 ft-lb. They should not be loose and tightening after installation is not going to hurt it. How many threads did you have to tighten it down to?
Thank you. I have a convertible, I was hoping to use your video as a guide, but I believe some of the springs between the coupe and convertible’s are different. Do you think the installation process is the same? Your video is so good it gave me confidence to do it myself! Haha
Ok. Help someone please because I’m about to do this to my mustang, but I’m also doing new brake discs and pads. Should I do the suspension, then once that is back together do the brake work? Or get the brakes one, drop the hub and do the suspension. Although my struts are all new
Tough call. For safety and effective testing, you can do one at a time. That way, if there is a problem, you can easily find the root cause. Or (if you're confident), you can change out the springs, then swap out the brake discs.
That's not good. You need to identify where noises are coming from. Start troubleshooting mode and determine if it's a loose bolt or defective equipment.
Do you think Camber caster plates are needed? I baught some camber bolts instead cause they are much cheaper but wasn't sure if caster plates are need to run good.
Are those 19 inch wheels? I want this look with 19 inch wheels on my Mustang. I want 285/35/19 in the front and 305/35/19 in the rear. Would one inch springs with the wheels and tires I want give me a similar stance to yours?
That's a tough question (but a good one). Several experts have various opinions on what should be upgraded and what can be left alone (and I'm no expert). I can't say what is or isn't required to upgrade. However, I would recommend swapping out the struts and shocks with new springs. If you are already removing the struts, you might as well replace them, providing a clean slate. Other than that, LMR, CJ Pony, AM, facebook, and others would recommend a list of items to upgrade in addition to the springs. It can get expensive really quick.
When lowering the rear, using the OEM panhard rod/bar would cause the rear wheels to offset. So, it's highly recommended to keep the drive wheels as centered as possible with the vehicle.
When you adjust the panhard bar the tires should be on the ground ( level ground) the body of the car will center over the axle. ( the tires will not move, the body will move)
The lowering springs are SR Performance Lowering Springs from AM (link in the description). The parts replaced in the video were the only items changed.
What a great video! The detailed instructions on marking your bolts/thread line, torque all bolts, and actually using locktite on every bolt are instructions that everyone needs to live by.
Thank you very much for the positive feedback!!! We try our best.
I can not thank you enough for including the torque specs. Awesome video appreciate it
Thank you for the support
I'm changing out my struts, shocks, and installing a new adjustable panhard bar next week on my 2013 Mustang v6. You have the best, most detailed, and well thought out video on the whole process. Thank you so much for making what I expected to be a three day minimum job into an easy diy project.
P.S. I appreciate you explaining how and why to mark the suspension parts. My Haynes manual says to do the same thing, but makes no mention of the reasoning behind it.
Thank you very much. Let me know how it goes.
@@mcgurrentertainment Finished up everything yesterday afternoon. All in all it went smoothly. Took 1-1/2 days to complete, mainly due to the fact that I had to use penetrating oil on most of the nut/bolt assemblies and I'm lazing about on vacation. Thanks again for the great tutorial.
Also wanted to mention, since the passenger side shock is what creates that weird angle on the panhard bar nut, I went ahead and replaced the panhard bar after removing the shocks and then replaced the shocks.
amazing video. i was gonna take it to the shop but im motivated to do it myself now. also explaning the issues when you dont get the panhard bar really helped me understand it
😁
What an underrated content ! Great job man
Thank you very much, it really does mean a lot!!!!
This is a GREAT video. Well produced, detailed and informative. Narration is up best and to the point. I don't think I can expect anything better. Thanks for sharing your experience and knowledge. I will be using this guide for my project very soon.
Thank you very much for the positive feedback. It really means a lot!!!
thanks for the video. My 2013 Mustang is also getting lower springs and a Phanhard Bar next week.
greetings from Germany
Very cool!!!! Thank you for the support
This is alot easier then I was expecting.i can't wait to get mine done.thanks for the great video!!
Anytime. Thank you for the positive feedback.
May actually be willing to try this myself now. Fantastic video and thank you
Thank you for the positive feedback. Let me know how it turns out.
I’m going to do this today thanks for the details !!!
Nice!!! Let me know how it turns out.
Awesome video man, no bs just right to it
Thank you!!!!
I bought my son a 2010 GT for his high school graduation gift. The car is overall in great shape with some typical issues for it's age and the idea was to be something we could work on together. There's a clunking noise coming from the front end when hitting bumps and some steering wheel vibration at about 65mph. Figured we just go ahead and replace all the front suspension parts and was thinking of doing some lowering springs on it while we were there so this vid helps out alot for that. The car also has an issue with the door ajar indicator staying on saying both doors and trunk are ajar. I've seen where the sensors in the doors causes that issue but that they also make the window go down some when the door is open then close the window when the door closes. And both doors function properly in that regard so I'm not sure as to how it could be the sensor or that the sensor partially works if that makes sense? Interior light stays on while driving until the battery drain preventor kicks in and turns them on. The keyfob works to lock and unlock the car and it has the 2 honks on lock alerting me that something is ajar. The interior door lock switches aren't working as well. So I'm kinda stumped as to what could be the issue. Any ideas would be greatly appreciated.
Are both the interior door switches not working or just one side?
@@mcgurrentertainment both switches don't work
Could be a few items. Start with the easiest items first. Check Fuse 17 (20A) first. Next, check the luggage compartment circuit; open the trunk and close it to make sure it's latched.
After the easy checks, you'll have to pull out a meter and start troubleshooting.
@mcgurrentertainment appreciate it dude
I finally had the confidence to tackle this job solely because how clear your video was, thank you! I’m done with the front, rear will be tomorrow.
Question: The 21mm nut at the very top, I matched my threads to where they were stock like you showed, but I noticed the nut was still loose after I installed everything, so i tightened it up after everything was torqued down and installed. Is this ok?
Thank you!!! The strut rod nut should be tightened to approximately 76 ft-lb. They should not be loose and tightening after installation is not going to hurt it. How many threads did you have to tighten it down to?
Thank you for this video
Fantastic detail’s especially with torque numbers. Do you happen to have a video detailing safe jacking points in a s197?
www.cjponyparts.com/resources/2005-2014-mustang-jack-points
@@mcgurrentertainment Thank you very much.
Anytime 😊
I have an 07 mustang GT that I’m doing this same install. Would all the ft/lbs be the same as what you’re mentioning?
Great video!
Thank you very much. If I recall, it should have the same torque specs as the 2012.
Thank you. I have a convertible, I was hoping to use your video as a guide, but I believe some of the springs between the coupe and convertible’s are different. Do you think the installation process is the same? Your video is so good it gave me confidence to do it myself! Haha
I'm pretty sure it's similar. Not 100%, but I can't imagine it's completely different.
Great video! Thank You! 👍🏁
Thank you for the positive feedback
Great video
Thank you!!!
Ok. Help someone please because I’m about to do this to my mustang, but I’m also doing new brake discs and pads. Should I do the suspension, then once that is back together do the brake work? Or get the brakes one, drop the hub and do the suspension. Although my struts are all new
Tough call. For safety and effective testing, you can do one at a time. That way, if there is a problem, you can easily find the root cause. Or (if you're confident), you can change out the springs, then swap out the brake discs.
Did you use the pinch welds to hold the car up? I’m always nervous getting under my car, never certain I’m putting my jack or stands in the right spot
This is completely understandable. Here is a link to the jacking point diagram: images.app.goo.gl/zgYn26gQUW5FpRQY9
I just lowered mine yesterday. Now everything rattles like crazy, do I need new struts and shocks?
That's not good. You need to identify where noises are coming from. Start troubleshooting mode and determine if it's a loose bolt or defective equipment.
Do you think Camber caster plates are needed? I baught some camber bolts instead cause they are much cheaper but wasn't sure if caster plates are need to run good.
It depends who you ask. Caster Camber Plates are ideal when modifying your suspension (lowering it). They do help dial it in after making changes.
do i have to cut the bump stop to go lower it was supposed to drop 2” but didn’t im wondering if the bump stop is holding it up.
No
Can you do one for an 2021 model
Mustang ?
That's a good question. We do have a few ideas for the S550 Mustangs. Might take some time. Good idea though.
Are those 19 inch wheels? I want this look with 19 inch wheels on my Mustang. I want 285/35/19 in the front and 305/35/19 in the rear. Would one inch springs with the wheels and tires I want give me a similar stance to yours?
Yes, these are 19 inch wheels (245/45R19). Sadly, I can not confirm if those tire sizes would fit with 1 inch springs.
is it neccessary to upgrade other suspensionn components? like struts shocks etc when installing lowering springs?
That's a tough question (but a good one). Several experts have various opinions on what should be upgraded and what can be left alone (and I'm no expert). I can't say what is or isn't required to upgrade. However, I would recommend swapping out the struts and shocks with new springs. If you are already removing the struts, you might as well replace them, providing a clean slate. Other than that, LMR, CJ Pony, AM, facebook, and others would recommend a list of items to upgrade in addition to the springs. It can get expensive really quick.
Is the pan hared necessary to get?
When lowering the rear, using the OEM panhard rod/bar would cause the rear wheels to offset. So, it's highly recommended to keep the drive wheels as centered as possible with the vehicle.
Do I need to jack up the car to adjust the panhard bar to center the rear axle?
No. The adjustment in the video was with the wheels on the ground.
When you adjust the panhard bar the tires should be on the ground ( level ground) the body of the car will center over the axle. ( the tires will not move, the body will move)
Do you need to change driveshaft pinion angle when lowering? I was told that you do.
Per AM, "Typically pinion angle does not need to be adjusted with these springs."
so you don’t have to do an alignment on the front?
We didn't need it for this modification.
What springs are these?
Link in the description
I see those are the sr lowering spring. American racing says we gotta replace certain parts to make them fit. Is that factual?
The lowering springs are SR Performance Lowering Springs from AM (link in the description). The parts replaced in the video were the only items changed.
what size of wheel spacers are those?
If I recall, they are 1in.