Fantastic tutorial ! Just started loading for revolvers and I feel like I just watched a Mater Class. Best 22 minutes I’ve invested since I last devoured a Philly Cheese Steak ! Thank you so much, Sir, for sharing your knowledge & experience. The internet is a invaluable resource when it allows lesser learned individuals, no matter what their passion, pursuit or endeavor, to advance so quickly through the solid mentorship of experienced and generous folks like yourself who so thoroughly understand what it is we’re trying to accomplish and the challenges that we’ll encounter along the way.
I really appreciate you sharing your wisdom and passing this knowledge down to younger generations. Your vids have been extremely helpful, especially recently as I just started reloading for revolvers.
I just bought a MP Molds 4 cavity Elmer Keith 158 grain .38 SPL/.357 Mag hollow point mold. I opted for the .360" drop size to be able to size down to .358" - .359" to fit the guns. Most are not optimal and have a loose fit at .357" so slugging your barrel becomes important. In .38 Special I like my MP Molds 8 cavity 148 grain DEWC the best with 2.7 - 2.8 grains Alliant Bullseye.
Eric, As always you do a great job of explaining key considerations and points of safety. I continue to learn and am broadening my reload skills. Thanks so much! Gunsmoker 55
I made some of those old .38 special RN for my buddies. I put them over 5 grains of Unique and they had a really pleasant thump. Pretty dang accurate too..
Hi there FortuneCookieLC45! I just want to say that I've been watching your videos on .44spl for a very long time and you inspired me to reload .44spl. well this month I took the plunge and reloaded .44spl as my first cartridge. I'm a what I consider a new shooter (maybe 6-7) years in and I'm happy to be shooting such a fine round with a rich history.
Synethesia Serpent - You will find that the 44 Spl will do everything practical that you need a handgun to do...now if you are into the impractical, then come all the hellraisers. Come to think about it, raising hell is something very human to do unless we are all a bunch of cyborgs linked to a hive queen... Best to ya, Steve
Thanks for the video ! It was like a review of every mistake I’ve ever made ! Primer not seated right was another one. My worst was a whole box of 45 LC RN black powder, and I had just changed bullets to a different RN and they were too long !!! So have your gun at the bench !
One great thing about shooting revolvers is that you don't have to dig through the grass looking for your brass when you're done. Ha. I still have to keep an eye out for the short hornady brass that gets mixed in with the others though because it won't crimp unless I adjust the die just for them. Thanks for the great vids.
Found out about the shirt Hornady cases by accident reloading mixed Hornady and Starline .47/70 brass..wound up having Lee make me a custom FCD for the shorter Hornady brass...
Thank you, another fine video. A good topic to cover because I reload for a S&W 696 Plus in 357 mag. I just purchased a Henery Big Boy in 357 magnum. Your video on reloading for lever guns was also very helpful. Now my reloads will consider both types of firearms.
Another great learning experience while being entertained by one of the treasures of our hobby. I now have two genuine American colloquial tests to use; the "snick test" and the "plunk test". Thank you for all the effort and personal knowledge you put into these wonderful videos.
I really like your videos as a rule. When I first started Reloading back in the Late 70's I had a new Stainless Security Six, the only cheap Factory loads I could find were the Round Nose Lead. This caused severe leading in my new Barrel. A "Gunsmith" told me to just shot Jacket to Scrape the Lead out. Well Ruger had to Replace my Barrel. These days I Cast my own either with a Lyman 358156 w/gas check or I have a Lee 15gr.Tumble Lube SWC. As long as I stick to Hard Lead such as Lyman #2 or Wheel Weights w/ a little Tin ant Powder Coat the Lee I get no loading with either of my Rugers, GP100, or Sec. Six. The Last thing is with the Lee Fact. Crimp Die you should never use it with the Dillon Press it interferes with the Shell Plate and will break the Die like it did mine. Lee should warn about this Midway has comments from other Dillon users with the same problem. The dies seem to work fine in my other Calibers (9mm, .380 & .45 ACP ) are fine.
Very nice, I started on 357/38 after watching your videos for endless hours on every aspect of reloading from choosing equipment through casting bullets to chrono graphing and cutting playing cards at the range. This video is a great companion for reloading lever guns chambered in pistol calibers noting the exception of certain rifles such as the "micro groove" Marlins. Good to see you're still here and many thanks for being here, it was your advise that gave me the push into reloading. Had though about it for years, but had too many unanswered questions. Then I watched you review a Lee Classic 4 hole turret press, subscribed, binge watched all of your videos, took notes, re-watched, tooled up, set up, watched and followed along. Now I can proudly say I cast my own bullets and reload my ammunition with reasonable confidence my product preforms better than store bought ammo for a significant savings in cost, not counting time of course, because the time is enjoyed. I hope you consider going through all of your old, in depth videos and packaging them as a class or knowledge base for sale as an instant download. I for one often like watching them as a refresher before I cast bullets or perform other tasks in reloading I don't often do. Thanks again for all of the quality reloading lessons with attention to detail and emphasis on safety through your lifetime of experience. Got my 15 year old son pressing out some mild .357 mag target loads for his first lesson in reloading.
Charles - Thanks for this fine comment on your own paths in reloading...and you've packed a lot in a single paragraph..!! Best to you and reloaders everywhere as we all enjoy the wonder to be found in the world of shooting..!! Steve
sidney white - Thanks, found it up in my travels in Washington State, made by local American craftsman up there. It's a lamp patterned after the Vulcan Science Academy....Best to ya, Steve
Dear Cookie: Thanks so much for the video - great information! Just thought I’d add that .310 Martini Cadet is a heeled bullet as well. I don’t resize for my .310 but when I do “a very little” crimp I use a .32 S&W pistol crimping die. Chambers very well indeed and is an extraordinary accurate “rifle cartridge.”
FC45LC is an expert. Thank you for sharing your knowledge. Every time I watch his videos I wonder what his profession is/was. He’s a great communicator, and certainly very intelligent. I’m guessing college professor...😎
Thanks for the video. I crimp, but with mixed brass the variation in case length gives rise to varying degrees of crimp if the full stroke of the press is used. So I tried crimp by "feel" to try to get the same resistance near the max stroke of the press. I ended up trimming all my 38 sp mixed brass to the same length on a hand trimmer... ... for a 1000 cases. The crimp was perfect every time, but the trimming was so tedious that I'll never do it again. Back to crimping by feel. It's just practice ammo anyways.
When available again after this madness ends look into getting a RCBS Trim Pro 2 120 volt power trimmer. I have had and used the original Trim Pro 1 120 volt power trimmer for about 15 years now. I believe it to be the best, most accurate and fastest one available. I also have and use the RSBC Case Prep Center to do all the chamfering and deburing after I use the trimmer. I trim every single piece of brass I reload. Nothing is accurate or uniform even the same brand, same lot and even out of the same box. Some calibers can be as much as .010" +/- on the length even out of the same box of 50. I never throw chance to the wind and guess. You know what they say in the Military when you "assume". You make an ass out of you and me. John
I load so much and so many calibers that I invested in the Forster drill-press mounted power trimmer and an assortment of collets and pilots for it. Works great, makes projects like loading large batches of match rifle ammo or forming .300 BO from .223 much easier.
Thank you! I think the term Handloading and the word Ammunition work better for a search, reloading as you note is more about loading again, bot making ammunition.
Great Overview of Issues serious Revolver Shooters need to be aware of. You, Mike Venturino, Brian Pearce and Manny CA stress the importance of Cylinder Throat sizes for repeatable and accurate Revolvers. THANKS !
I learned about this issue the hard way. A mid-1970s S&W Model 25 was unacceptably inaccurate. Took a lot of digging and reading to sort out the problem, but it turned out that the throats were all over-sized AND inconsistent.
I have been loading the Lyman 358429 bullet into .357 Mag cases for years, and It does not have a crimping groove so I crimp just over the shoulder of the front driving band. Werx Fyne, Evri Tyme!!
Hey, Cookie...when I load .410 slugs (actual .3975) into AA-HS hulls, I get a visible bulge at the skirt of the pellet slug. I measured the AA-HS hull i.d. as nominal .375 (.376-.380). I get Fiocchi hulls as .400. Just sayin’ “in MY hands...” LATER: I tested a few Fiocchi hulls, and my slugs slid right down, no force. They ARE bigger.
Still learning. Some plated or polymer coated bullets may not have a crimp groove. Caution should be taken not to crimp aggressively so not to scrape the plating or polymer off the bullet. To achieve this I use slight taper crimp using the Lee crimp die while smoothing the case bulges these types of bullets may cause. Any constructive feed back on this method would be welcome.
Crusty Marine - Yes, indeed, and you've got a good wire on plated, polymer, and powder coated bullets without the crimping grooves. Good shootin' to ya, Steve
Walter Palmer - Great question..!! If a revolver roll crimp is overcrimped, the crimp goes into a groove or cannelure and starts to come back out in the dreaded what Fortune Cookie calls the dreaded S - crimp - clear sign of overcrimping. With taper crimps, you reach the maximum degree of taper crimp and exceed that, you will either 1) seating die body hits the shell holder or 2) you actually defeat the taper crimp causing less bullet retention and stability. None of this is desired. Good reloadin' to ya, Steve
Overcrimping, as FC describes in his reply to your question, is bad because it overworks the case mouth, decreasing case life by eventually causing cracks. It also can distort the bullet, resulting in poor accuracy or failure of an expanding bullet to perform properly. It can also result in bulging of the case below the crimp, preventing chambering of the rounds.
Nice video FC45LC, I used to have an old hard cover NRA Handloaders manual and it had one section for reloading .357 mag. handguns , and one section for reloading .357 mag. Rifles. I should have never gave that manual away. I haven't found any reloading manuals with separate loads for Revolver ( handguns ) and Rifles in .357 mag. JT
Scenic Driveways - Such reloading seems to say that rifles can have more powerful ammo than revolvers, but this practice may have safety issues as that same ammo might be chambered into revolvers accidentally and then would be proof loads in the revolvers. That might explain why we don't have such reloading sections in our manuals today. Best to ya, Steve
Thank you Sir for your videos. I have 38 special cases of all different sizes. Can I seat each case individually, or should I trim all cases to the same length?
A Blackhawk I know and love is chambered for 30 Carbine. I once attempted some light reloads (for some fool reason) despite the warnings about H 110 only performing safely and consistently in a nearly full case. I was using a very dependable data source. SQUIB! Don’t try it! Notable that the jacketed.308” / 110gr carbine bullet has no cannelure at all and this round should be treated like any straight-walled auto pistol round even when used in the Blackhawk. So said the nice technician lady at Ruger.
I've been reloading for M1 Carbines and .30 Blackhawks, with cast and jacketed bullets, since 1975. You have to be nitpicky on case length and on straightening out your flare because the round headspaces on the case mouth. The Lyman manual is a good source of light loads for the BH; you just have to make sure the load is stout enough for the bullet to clear the muzzle. .32-20 data is good if you can find it; the case capacity is nearly identical. .32 S&WL is good light-load data too. You can extrapolate .32 H&R and .327 data, but only if you're experienced in doing so and work up to the heavier loads. I've never had bullets get inertia-pulled from recoil of the other rounds in the cylinder, but if I had I'm pretty sure that engineering a good tight bullet-to-case fit would solve it. You simply can't use any degree at all of roll crimp, and any taper crimp past just ironing out the flare can cause bulging. Another note for the gas-op Carbines is that non-jacketed bullets need to be either powder coated or genuinely plated; the copper-wash a la .22 RF will allow lead to solder your gas piston. Trust me.
My Dan Wesson has a cylinder length of 1.76 inches. The Lyman 245 grain Keith bullet exceeds maximum overall length but still fits in it. That is my heavy-duty bullet for it. With a 300 grain bullet may I use the second crimp groove?
Hey FC, on a somewhat unrelated topic I was thinking about the .22WRM and how there is such a lack of light/moderate loads ala gallery or pest loads. There are lots of those in .22LR but then you have to get a separate gun or cylinder for the LR. But what about pulling the bullets and reassembling with a reduced powder charge or even lighter projectiles (round ball even). I can't think of a more experienced hand loader to ask. Is this a reasonable thing to try? Too bad they don't sell primed rimfire brass (just like you can buy center fire primers). It would make for lots of possibilities.
My rugar cylinder checks 451. Should I size 451or 452? I’m shooting Lyman 255 grain with gas check?I have both sizer dies. I want to shoot for accuracy
Cuz I got a question for you 38 super automatic and 357 Magnum will the will the left room at 3:57 Magnum fit in a 38 super automatic brass and be able to be fired through the 38 automatic I was just wondering that's because trying to find the actual diameter because of what I said to they were different I wanted to find out if they really would make that much of a difference
@@williamgaines9784 not the cases I'm asking if the let it software from a 357 will fit in a 38 super automatic and still be able to be further through the automatic adjust the lead part of it
That is google for ya! When I look for parts for my old truck, it pulls up all kinds of results but when I click any link 9/10 times it is a part for a completely different make/model/ year.
Hi Fortune Cookie, Love your vids... I'm new to reloading and saw your vid on 45 special starline brass... can you load those on standard 45 colt lc dies?... or actually can 38 colt short be reloaded in 38 special dies, I'd love to plink with some low power loads for my 3in snubbie Thanks in advance for your help in this matter
Great video as always. But I have a question. If the bullet diameter is .001 larger than the chamber throat, will the loaded cartridge still fall out of the cylinder as you demonstrated? Seems like one thousand over would be a press fit.
thisoldjeep - Great question. Interesting, I've never even thought of this as we mike our bullets to be sure we are .001" over the cylinder throats, but the loaded rounds never hang up when we want to just drop 'em out. When same raw bullets are just dropped into the chambers of any of our revolvers from the back end, they fall to the front of the cylinder throat to a certain point before they hang up - and that point is past where they would be seated in the case...that probably explains it all, but I really do not have any exact reason why that is so...it just works very well. Have a great day, Steve
dumbbo1 - We can all identify with this. I have to do the same rear sight pin push back in trick with some of my Rugers also, plus, my old 3 screw Super Blackhawk I always had to tighten the frame screw in front of the trigger guard every 25-30 rounds (I suppose I could have Loctited it, but I wanted to be able to take that screw out as necessary). Continued good shootin' to ya, Steve
Try blue Loctite 242 on your screws and Loctite Retaining Compound 641 for pins. When you want to remove or loosen them simply touch a preheated soldering iron tip to the screw or pin until you see a poof of smoke. Make sure you always use a proper size hollow-ground screwdriver that fits tightly to work on firearms. Run of the mill taper screwdrivers are no good for working on guns, knives and fishing reels. On pins always use a roll pin punch when installing or removing them. It prevents mushrooming the head or damaging them.
The last few Ruger single action revolvers I have bought have had a problem with the cylinder pin backing out on recoil and jamming up the cylinder. I don’t know if their quality control is slipping or what.
tjhawg - Other shooters have noted that happening, and it's the reason why after market cylinder base pins are available. I've never had that, but my 44 Mag Super Blackhawks routinely pop open their loading gates, rear sight pins start backing out, and frame screws loosen up when I touch off a bunch of the maggies. They do kick, don't they, and now we have even more power to be had... Good shootin' to ya, Steve
Sir: is there a retail store that sells Eastwood, or other, powders? I seem to wait a week or two to get powder via the internet. Does NAPA or somebody stock this stuff locally?
Hey, FC...Problem: tried my first 2 batches of powder coating slugs. Nothing stuck to my castings! I pre-heated 10 min @ 140, tumbled for 20 min, cooked 20 min @400. I thought I might have handled the slugs too much, leaving oils, so I bathed the second batch in acetone....no help. I am using HF flat black powder, since it was the ONLY thing available. I had heard to avoid it, but that was due to abrasives. Not more than 3% of the surfaces got coated. The well in the bottom of the pellets go some color. HELP! Do I need to add some solvent to the powder?? I have other powders on order, but this looks to be a dry hole...keep drilling down, or go back to lubed bullets?
I’ve noticed that different colors and powder types don’t coat well. Try another powder not harbor freight and maybe not black either. I have used other powders that work much better, Eastwood worked great. Stay away from any the metallic colors, start with Ford light blue. That was a great one.
John Stewart - Indeed, one thing we all must note is that when powder coating, if we do not get the powder sticking to our bullets for any reason, we need not proceed with the oven cure cycle as the only result we will get is frustration and bad results. Having to do powder coating in more than one coat is also bad policy unless we are doing HiTec where multiple coats is inherent in the process. Doing the heat the bullets first is an elvis ammo process that he worked out - I've never used it as I've found that using Eastwood powders (as prosewat99 says Ford Light Blue is a slam dunk) and most plastic tumble containers hand tumbled will result in good coating, oven bake 20 min at 400 F will = excellent results. With the HF powders, go with the red and be happy with that...the other HFs are a hit and miss, mostly miss. With the Eastwood powders, you can save all your used Eastwood powders, mix 'em all together and get a very nice earthy color that will also work well so you have no waste. Once you powder coat bullets, you will find that it will become a permanent part of your cast bullet procedures. Good reloadin' to ya, Steve
@@FortuneCookie45LC Thank you very much. I received some Eastwood yellow this morning. It’s not a thick, smooth yellow coat, but re-establishes my faith. Ford blue on the way. You kept me in the game.
It's a good kind of revolver Sir! But which has better accurate hit in shooting the toothpick,edge of coin,bottle cap?the revolver or .45 cal. 1911 pistol?To have an idea,kindly watch me in the video how did I shoot them by just holding my .45 cal. pistol with my two fingers.(Lito Valles Practical Self-defense).
Lito Valles PSD - You could do all of the shooting you do with most of our factory revolvers. But I certainly agree with you that our nicely set up 45ACP and 38 Super 1911s are a joy of accuracy. Your shooting with the gun upside down reminds me of a shooter named Porter who shot the Saturday Night Steel with his gun upside down. I enjoyed your video as you are a good shot for sure... Continued good shootin' to you, Steve
There’s a lot of great information about revolvers in this video fortuneCookie45LC , well don’t mate . Every shooter should have at least one good revolver in their possession. If you don’t have one go and buy one , you won’t regret it folks .
Steve, (My thoughts),,, Ruger pistols are good reliable pistols, however, they will never achieve the status of the collectability of the Smith& Wesson pistols, even the closest competitor (Colt) cant get to that level. and that isn't just me saying that people all over the world collect Smiths and pay extraordinary prices for some of their models, So, shoot your Ruger, shoot it often and enjoy the fact that you are not going to ruin anything about it. -Dave
Dave - Always great to hear from you. I've been moseying over to your site, and you've taken a break on making videos. That Ruger has been taken out and cycled a few times, I was going to use it for cowboy action (you need a pair of 'em, as you know), but never got around to that. Yes, it's time to shoot that rascal... best to ya, Dave... Steve
Mikehenrybell - Ha, ha, har....reminds me of watching the video where Bob Munden shot his snubby at 200 yards and hit a balloon - took him more than 1 shot though, but not many more than 1... Have a great day, Steve
I'm not sure why you didnt include powder coated bullets, because that's what I reload. Actually, hardcastle powder coated bullets for hunting or self defense against the big nastys that want a bite or two out of you or just to maul you to death. Speak about these please, because I dont believe there the same as jacketed or just cast bullets. Correct me in anyway needed please.
454Casull - A lot of the rules apply to PC bullets - if you want penetration, you have to cast the bullets hard; expansion, cast 'em soft. The PC will prevent leading in either case. Crimp in crimping grooves or taper crimp is no grooves present. But where PC bullets differ is that, with the PC, the hardness is much less a factor when matching up with the velocity of our loads. Used to be, if we wanted velocity, we needed harder bullets, but PC makes that much less of an issue, within reason, of course. If the bullets are too soft, the rifling won't grip as well PC or not. Plated bullets are good, but many don't have crimp grooves so we have to use taper crimps, or use roll crimps that are on the lighter side. Good shootin' to ya, Steve
This guy is a national treasure in the shooting and reloading community.
A lot of knowledge and no bull, unlike some others.
Amén
What he said !...
Fantastic tutorial ! Just started loading for revolvers and I feel like I just watched a Mater Class. Best 22 minutes I’ve invested since I last devoured a Philly Cheese Steak ! Thank you so much, Sir, for sharing your knowledge & experience. The internet is a invaluable resource when it allows lesser learned individuals, no matter what their passion, pursuit or endeavor, to advance so quickly through the solid mentorship of experienced and generous folks like yourself who so thoroughly understand what it is we’re trying to accomplish and the challenges that we’ll encounter along the way.
Fortune cookie 45LC is a legend. All your content is a pleasure to watch and listen.
I really appreciate you sharing your wisdom and passing this knowledge down to younger generations. Your vids have been extremely helpful, especially recently as I just started reloading for revolvers.
Every time I watch one of your videos I learn something, THANK YOU
Thanks Steve. You're a gentleman , not to mention informative. I love the way you speak. No B.S.
Man watched a lot of your videos and finally get to put a face to the voice
You Sir are an outstanding individual, thank you for you're wisdom.
Great video Man thank you Steve from Australia
“Snick” I always wondered! Great explanations! Love you your channel!
Excellent information weather a new reloaded or a seasoned one. Never too old to learn. Thank you.
I just bought a MP Molds 4 cavity Elmer Keith 158 grain .38 SPL/.357 Mag hollow point mold. I opted for the .360" drop size to be able to size down to .358" - .359" to fit the guns. Most are not optimal and have a loose fit at .357" so slugging your barrel becomes important. In .38 Special I like my MP Molds 8 cavity 148 grain DEWC the best with 2.7 - 2.8 grains Alliant Bullseye.
Eric, As always you do a great job of explaining key considerations and points of safety. I continue to learn and am broadening my reload skills. Thanks so much! Gunsmoker 55
Thank you for all you do. I've been going through a lot of your older videos. I just wanted to say thank you.
I made some of those old .38 special RN for my buddies. I put them over 5 grains of Unique and they had a really pleasant thump. Pretty dang accurate too..
Hi there FortuneCookieLC45! I just want to say that I've been watching your videos on .44spl for a very long time and you inspired me to reload .44spl. well this month I took the plunge and reloaded .44spl as my first cartridge. I'm a what I consider a new shooter (maybe 6-7) years in and I'm happy to be shooting such a fine round with a rich history.
Synethesia Serpent - You will find that the 44 Spl will do everything practical that you need a handgun to do...now if you are into the impractical, then come all the hellraisers. Come to think about it, raising hell is something very human to do unless we are all a bunch of cyborgs linked to a hive queen... Best to ya, Steve
The captions routine is printing "cannelure" as "cantaloupe" and I haven't laughed so much in months.
Thanks for the video !
It was like a review of every mistake I’ve ever made ! Primer not seated right was another one. My worst was a whole box of 45 LC RN black powder, and I had just changed bullets to a different RN and they were too long !!!
So have your gun at the bench !
I bought a Davidson’s .45 Colt Sheriffs model vaquero 500 made old style. Shoot the heck out of it! Love it🦅🇺🇸
My dad still has an unmodified 3-screw Ruger Blackhawk in 41mag he bought new when they came out. Love that gun & I'm generally not a revolver guy.
One great thing about shooting revolvers is that you don't have to dig through the grass looking for your brass when you're done. Ha. I still have to keep an eye out for the short hornady brass that gets mixed in with the others though because it won't crimp unless I adjust the die just for them. Thanks for the great vids.
Found out about the shirt Hornady cases by accident reloading mixed Hornady and Starline .47/70 brass..wound up having Lee make me a custom FCD for the shorter Hornady brass...
Thank you, another fine video. A good topic to cover because I reload for a S&W 696 Plus in 357 mag. I just purchased a Henery Big Boy in 357 magnum. Your video on reloading for lever guns was also very helpful. Now my reloads will consider both types of firearms.
Another great learning experience while being entertained by one of the treasures of our hobby. I now have two genuine American colloquial tests to use; the "snick test" and the "plunk test". Thank you for all the effort and personal knowledge you put into these wonderful videos.
I’m just getting into revolver reloading and this is a great video 👍🏻
I really like your videos as a rule. When I first started Reloading back in the Late 70's I had a new Stainless Security Six, the only cheap Factory loads I could find were the Round Nose Lead. This caused severe leading in my new Barrel. A "Gunsmith" told me to just shot Jacket to Scrape the Lead out. Well Ruger had to Replace my Barrel. These days I Cast my own either with a Lyman 358156 w/gas check or I have a Lee 15gr.Tumble Lube SWC. As long as I stick to Hard Lead such as Lyman #2 or Wheel Weights w/ a little Tin ant Powder Coat the Lee I get no loading with either of my Rugers, GP100, or Sec. Six. The Last thing is with the Lee Fact. Crimp Die you should never use it with the Dillon Press it interferes with the Shell Plate and will break the Die like it did mine. Lee should warn about this Midway has comments from other Dillon users with the same problem. The dies seem to work fine in my other Calibers (9mm, .380 & .45 ACP ) are fine.
Very nice, I started on 357/38 after watching your videos for endless hours on every aspect of reloading from choosing equipment through casting bullets to chrono graphing and cutting playing cards at the range. This video is a great companion for reloading lever guns chambered in pistol calibers noting the exception of certain rifles such as the "micro groove" Marlins. Good to see you're still here and many thanks for being here, it was your advise that gave me the push into reloading. Had though about it for years, but had too many unanswered questions. Then I watched you review a Lee Classic 4 hole turret press, subscribed, binge watched all of your videos, took notes, re-watched, tooled up, set up, watched and followed along. Now I can proudly say I cast my own bullets and reload my ammunition with reasonable confidence my product preforms better than store bought ammo for a significant savings in cost, not counting time of course, because the time is enjoyed. I hope you consider going through all of your old, in depth videos and packaging them as a class or knowledge base for sale as an instant download. I for one often like watching them as a refresher before I cast bullets or perform other tasks in reloading I don't often do. Thanks again for all of the quality reloading lessons with attention to detail and emphasis on safety through your lifetime of experience. Got my 15 year old son pressing out some mild .357 mag target loads for his first lesson in reloading.
Charles - Thanks for this fine comment on your own paths in reloading...and you've packed a lot in a single paragraph..!! Best to you and reloaders everywhere as we all enjoy the wonder to be found in the world of shooting..!! Steve
Steve, love your videos. Thank you!
Always info that is greatly needed thank you 👌
Thanks always for your sharing of this information . Keep healthy FC 45.
That was really helpful! Thanks FC👍😁❤
Beautiful lamp
sidney white - Thanks, found it up in my travels in Washington State, made by local American craftsman up there. It's a lamp patterned after the Vulcan Science Academy....Best to ya, Steve
Dear Cookie: Thanks so much for the video - great information! Just thought I’d add that .310 Martini Cadet is a heeled bullet as well. I don’t resize for my .310 but when I do “a very little” crimp I use a .32 S&W pistol crimping die. Chambers very well indeed and is an extraordinary accurate “rifle cartridge.”
FC45LC is an expert.
Thank you for sharing your knowledge.
Every time I watch his videos I wonder what his profession is/was. He’s a great communicator, and certainly very intelligent.
I’m guessing college professor...😎
great vidio steve thank you for sharing this wealth of infomation sir
Thanks for the video. I crimp, but with mixed brass the variation in case length gives rise to varying degrees of crimp if the full stroke of the press is used. So I tried crimp by "feel" to try to get the same resistance near the max stroke of the press. I ended up trimming all my 38 sp mixed brass to the same length on a hand trimmer... ... for a 1000 cases. The crimp was perfect every time, but the trimming was so tedious that I'll never do it again. Back to crimping by feel. It's just practice ammo anyways.
When available again after this madness ends look into getting a RCBS Trim Pro 2 120 volt power trimmer. I have had and used the original Trim Pro 1 120 volt power trimmer for about 15 years now. I believe it to be the best, most accurate and fastest one available. I also have and use the RSBC Case Prep Center to do all the chamfering and deburing after I use the trimmer. I trim every single piece of brass I reload. Nothing is accurate or uniform even the same brand, same lot and even out of the same box. Some calibers can be as much as .010" +/- on the length even out of the same box of 50. I never throw chance to the wind and guess. You know what they say in the Military when you "assume". You make an ass out of you and me.
John
I load so much and so many calibers that I invested in the Forster drill-press mounted power trimmer and an assortment of collets and pilots for it. Works great, makes projects like loading large batches of match rifle ammo or forming .300 BO from .223 much easier.
Another informative video sir ty kindly for the time that you put into making these videos. It is greatly appreciated.
Thank you! I think the term Handloading and the word Ammunition work better for a search, reloading as you note is more about loading again, bot making ammunition.
Great Overview of Issues serious Revolver Shooters need to be aware of. You, Mike Venturino, Brian Pearce and Manny CA stress the importance of Cylinder Throat sizes for repeatable and accurate Revolvers. THANKS !
I learned about this issue the hard way. A mid-1970s S&W Model 25 was unacceptably inaccurate. Took a lot of digging and reading to sort out the problem, but it turned out that the throats were all over-sized AND inconsistent.
Well done as always sir.
Keep up the good work.
My first handgun was a 357 just like the 50 yr Ruger . Thanks !!
Really enjoyed this, thank you.
I have been loading the Lyman 358429 bullet into .357 Mag cases for years, and It does not have a crimping groove so I crimp just over the shoulder of the front driving band. Werx Fyne, Evri Tyme!!
Good info there my friend.
Is this becoming a cooking show slash gun reloading? If so awesome! 😎
Good info. Thanks, FC.
You should write a book, FC. You could stand next to the greats like Keith!
Forrest Andrews - Thanks for your kind remarks - health and wellness to you and yours, Steve
love my wheel guns!
Me too!
Same here. Sold the few poly framed autoloaders, keeping only 2 45ACPs. But my wheelguns? They're not going anywhere! 🔫👍
Hey, Cookie...when I load .410 slugs (actual .3975) into AA-HS hulls, I get a visible bulge at the skirt of the pellet slug. I measured the AA-HS hull i.d. as nominal .375 (.376-.380).
I get Fiocchi hulls as .400. Just sayin’ “in MY hands...” LATER: I tested a few Fiocchi hulls, and my slugs slid right down, no force. They ARE bigger.
Great info thank you for sharing! Have fun & stay safe!
Still learning. Some plated or polymer coated bullets may not have a crimp groove. Caution should be taken not to crimp aggressively so not to scrape the plating or polymer off the bullet. To achieve this I use slight taper crimp using the Lee crimp die while smoothing the case bulges these types of bullets may cause. Any constructive feed back on this method would be welcome.
Crusty Marine - Yes, indeed, and you've got a good wire on plated, polymer, and powder coated bullets without the crimping grooves. Good shootin' to ya, Steve
I've gone exclusively to seating and crimping in separate steps. This solves most crimp-related issues.
Thank you for your clear, pleasant presentations. It is so refreshing to listen to a firearms related discussion devoid of machismo or politics.
Very interesting video.
Very nice pistol thank you for the information
Another good video FC. Question on crimping : How do you know if you're over-crimping or does that matter ?
Walter Palmer - Great question..!! If a revolver roll crimp is overcrimped, the crimp goes into a groove or cannelure and starts to come back out in the dreaded what Fortune Cookie calls the dreaded S - crimp - clear sign of overcrimping. With taper crimps, you reach the maximum degree of taper crimp and exceed that, you will either 1) seating die body hits the shell holder or 2) you actually defeat the taper crimp causing less bullet retention and stability. None of this is desired. Good reloadin' to ya, Steve
Overcrimping, as FC describes in his reply to your question, is bad because it overworks the case mouth, decreasing case life by eventually causing cracks. It also can distort the bullet, resulting in poor accuracy or failure of an expanding bullet to perform properly. It can also result in bulging of the case below the crimp, preventing chambering of the rounds.
Nice video FC45LC,
I used to have an old hard cover NRA Handloaders manual and it had one section for reloading .357 mag. handguns , and one section for reloading .357 mag. Rifles. I should have never gave that manual away. I haven't found any reloading manuals with separate loads for Revolver ( handguns ) and Rifles in .357 mag.
JT
Scenic Driveways - Such reloading seems to say that rifles can have more powerful ammo than revolvers, but this practice may have safety issues as that same ammo might be chambered into revolvers accidentally and then would be proof loads in the revolvers. That might explain why we don't have such reloading sections in our manuals today. Best to ya, Steve
Some manuals still have separate revo/rifle pages for the same caliber.
Ok. So I reload .44 mag. I crimp @ 1.60. But my cannelure would bring me to col. to about 1.55. What should I do?
Crimp in the cannelure. You should be about in the middle to upper half of the cannelure. .005 isnt enough to cause any problems.
Excellent
Thank you Sir for your videos. I have 38 special cases of all different sizes. Can I seat each case individually, or should I trim all cases to the same length?
A Blackhawk I know and love is chambered for 30 Carbine. I once attempted some light reloads (for some fool reason) despite the warnings about H 110 only performing safely and consistently in a nearly full case. I was using a very dependable data source. SQUIB! Don’t try it! Notable that the jacketed.308” / 110gr carbine bullet has no cannelure at all and this round should be treated like any straight-walled auto pistol round even when used in the Blackhawk. So said the nice technician lady at Ruger.
I've been reloading for M1 Carbines and .30 Blackhawks, with cast and jacketed bullets, since 1975. You have to be nitpicky on case length and on straightening out your flare because the round headspaces on the case mouth. The Lyman manual is a good source of light loads for the BH; you just have to make sure the load is stout enough for the bullet to clear the muzzle. .32-20 data is good if you can find it; the case capacity is nearly identical. .32 S&WL is good light-load data too. You can extrapolate .32 H&R and .327 data, but only if you're experienced in doing so and work up to the heavier loads. I've never had bullets get inertia-pulled from recoil of the other rounds in the cylinder, but if I had I'm pretty sure that engineering a good tight bullet-to-case fit would solve it. You simply can't use any degree at all of roll crimp, and any taper crimp past just ironing out the flare can cause bulging. Another note for the gas-op Carbines is that non-jacketed bullets need to be either powder coated or genuinely plated; the copper-wash a la .22 RF will allow lead to solder your gas piston. Trust me.
My Dan Wesson has a cylinder length of 1.76 inches. The Lyman 245 grain Keith bullet exceeds maximum overall length but still fits in it. That is my heavy-duty bullet for it. With a 300 grain bullet may I use the second crimp groove?
Hey FC, on a somewhat unrelated topic I was thinking about the .22WRM and how there is such a lack of light/moderate loads ala gallery or pest loads. There are lots of those in .22LR but then you have to get a separate gun or cylinder for the LR.
But what about pulling the bullets and reassembling with a reduced powder charge or even lighter projectiles (round ball even). I can't think of a more experienced hand loader to ask. Is this a reasonable thing to try?
Too bad they don't sell primed rimfire brass (just like you can buy center fire primers). It would make for lots of possibilities.
My rugar cylinder checks 451. Should I size 451or 452? I’m shooting Lyman 255 grain with gas check?I have both sizer dies. I want to shoot for accuracy
Cuz I got a question for you 38 super automatic and 357 Magnum will the will the left room at 3:57 Magnum fit in a 38 super automatic brass and be able to be fired through the 38 automatic I was just wondering that's because trying to find the actual diameter because of what I said to they were different I wanted to find out if they really would make that much of a difference
.38 super and .357 magnum are completely different cases they are not interchangeable.
@@williamgaines9784 not the cases I'm asking if the let it software from a 357 will fit in a 38 super automatic and still be able to be further through the automatic adjust the lead part of it
Trimming changes the internal dimensions. How do you overcome this. 357 to 38 special EZ use 38 load data but can you go shorter?
Thank you! Thank you!
That is google for ya! When I look for parts for my old truck, it pulls up all kinds of results but when I click any link 9/10 times it is a part for a completely different make/model/ year.
Hi Fortune Cookie, Love your vids... I'm new to reloading and saw your vid on 45 special starline brass... can you load those on standard 45 colt lc dies?... or actually can 38 colt short be reloaded in 38 special dies, I'd love to plink with some low power loads for my 3in snubbie Thanks in advance for your help in this matter
You remind me of the gunsmith in saint denis from red dead redemption 2 🤣 no disrespect, meant it as a compliment
Great video as always.
But I have a question. If the bullet diameter is .001 larger than the chamber throat, will the loaded cartridge still fall out of the cylinder as you demonstrated? Seems like one thousand over would be a press fit.
thisoldjeep - Great question. Interesting, I've never even thought of this as we mike our bullets to be sure we are .001" over the cylinder throats, but the loaded rounds never hang up when we want to just drop 'em out. When same raw bullets are just dropped into the chambers of any of our revolvers from the back end, they fall to the front of the cylinder throat to a certain point before they hang up - and that point is past where they would be seated in the case...that probably explains it all, but I really do not have any exact reason why that is so...it just works very well. Have a great day, Steve
I had one! 44 Mag. Felt like my fillings were rattling in my teeth every time I fired it, and the rear sight pin kept backing out. I still miss it!
dumbbo1 - We can all identify with this. I have to do the same rear sight pin push back in trick with some of my Rugers also, plus, my old 3 screw Super Blackhawk I always had to tighten the frame screw in front of the trigger guard every 25-30 rounds (I suppose I could have Loctited it, but I wanted to be able to take that screw out as necessary). Continued good shootin' to ya, Steve
Try blue Loctite 242 on your screws and Loctite Retaining Compound 641 for pins. When you want to remove or loosen them simply touch a preheated soldering iron tip to the screw or pin until you see a poof of smoke. Make sure you always use a proper size hollow-ground screwdriver that fits tightly to work on firearms. Run of the mill taper screwdrivers are no good for working on guns, knives and fishing reels. On pins always use a roll pin punch when installing or removing them. It prevents mushrooming the head or damaging them.
That was instructive
Yes revolvers are special.
The last few Ruger single action revolvers I have bought have had a problem with the cylinder pin backing out on recoil and jamming up the cylinder. I don’t know if their quality control is slipping or what.
tjhawg - Other shooters have noted that happening, and it's the reason why after market cylinder base pins are available. I've never had that, but my 44 Mag Super Blackhawks routinely pop open their loading gates, rear sight pins start backing out, and frame screws loosen up when I touch off a bunch of the maggies. They do kick, don't they, and now we have even more power to be had... Good shootin' to ya, Steve
Sir: is there a retail store that sells Eastwood, or other, powders? I seem to wait a week or two to get powder via the internet. Does NAPA or somebody stock this stuff locally?
Hey, FC...Problem: tried my first 2 batches of powder coating slugs. Nothing stuck to my castings! I pre-heated 10 min @ 140, tumbled for 20 min, cooked 20 min @400. I thought I might have handled the slugs too much, leaving oils, so I bathed the second batch in acetone....no help. I am using HF flat black powder, since it was the ONLY thing available. I had heard to avoid it, but that was due to abrasives. Not more than 3% of the surfaces got coated. The well in the bottom of the pellets go some color.
HELP! Do I need to add some solvent to the powder?? I have other powders on order, but this looks to be a dry hole...keep drilling down, or go back to lubed bullets?
I’ve noticed that different colors and powder types don’t coat well. Try another powder not harbor freight and maybe not black either. I have used other powders that work much better, Eastwood worked great. Stay away from any the metallic colors, start with Ford light blue. That was a great one.
John Stewart - Indeed, one thing we all must note is that when powder coating, if we do not get the powder sticking to our bullets for any reason, we need not proceed with the oven cure cycle as the only result we will get is frustration and bad results. Having to do powder coating in more than one coat is also bad policy unless we are doing HiTec where multiple coats is inherent in the process. Doing the heat the bullets first is an elvis ammo process that he worked out - I've never used it as I've found that using Eastwood powders (as prosewat99 says Ford Light Blue is a slam dunk) and most plastic tumble containers hand tumbled will result in good coating, oven bake 20 min at 400 F will = excellent results. With the HF powders, go with the red and be happy with that...the other HFs are a hit and miss, mostly miss. With the Eastwood powders, you can save all your used Eastwood powders, mix 'em all together and get a very nice earthy color that will also work well so you have no waste. Once you powder coat bullets, you will find that it will become a permanent part of your cast bullet procedures. Good reloadin' to ya, Steve
@@FortuneCookie45LC Thank you very much. I received some Eastwood yellow this morning. It’s not a thick, smooth yellow coat, but re-establishes my faith. Ford blue on the way. You kept me in the game.
awesome info
Hello furtune cookie , pleace the best load for opentop revolver cal 38 special .
Greatings from Holland
It's a good kind of revolver Sir! But which has better accurate hit in shooting the toothpick,edge of coin,bottle cap?the revolver or .45 cal. 1911 pistol?To have an idea,kindly watch me in the video how did I shoot them by just holding my .45 cal. pistol with my two fingers.(Lito Valles Practical Self-defense).
Lito Valles PSD - You could do all of the shooting you do with most of our factory revolvers. But I certainly agree with you that our nicely set up 45ACP and 38 Super 1911s are a joy of accuracy. Your shooting with the gun upside down reminds me of a shooter named Porter who shot the Saturday Night Steel with his gun upside down. I enjoyed your video as you are a good shot for sure... Continued good shootin' to you, Steve
Thank you so much for the nice words Sir! Your gun products are one of the best in the world.Hope we can be friends.
There’s a lot of great information about revolvers in this video fortuneCookie45LC , well don’t mate . Every shooter should have at least one good revolver in their possession. If you don’t have one go and buy one , you won’t regret it folks .
Hail to all the great Aussies...!! And the best to ya, Steve
Thanks
5 grains auto comp for 38 357 9 mm 40 s&w all bullets whats ur thoughts good solid accurate cycles action talk to me goose
Steve, (My thoughts),,, Ruger pistols are good reliable pistols, however, they will never achieve the status of the collectability of the Smith& Wesson pistols, even the closest competitor (Colt) cant get to that level. and that isn't just me saying that people all over the world collect Smiths and pay extraordinary prices for some of their models, So, shoot your Ruger, shoot it often and enjoy the fact that you are not going to ruin anything about it. -Dave
OK if you have a Colt New Service Shooting Master in good condition, I will gladly trade it for every S&W I own plus some cash ...
Dave - Always great to hear from you. I've been moseying over to your site, and you've taken a break on making videos. That Ruger has been taken out and cycled a few times, I was going to use it for cowboy action (you need a pair of 'em, as you know), but never got around to that. Yes, it's time to shoot that rascal... best to ya, Dave... Steve
I Shoot my 50th anniversary Mark II 22. They made way too many of them to be collectible
Hey fortune cookie how is reloading supplies in your area!nom still dry here in sc any good places any help needed is greatly appreciated!!!!!!
👍🏻👍🏻
Only date a commemorative would be special 100 yr mark on a SW centennial..?
Shoulder is called a forcing cone
I never trim any handgun brass, don’t expect them to knock down a Bambi over 200 yds.
Mikehenrybell - Ha, ha, har....reminds me of watching the video where Bob Munden shot his snubby at 200 yards and hit a balloon - took him more than 1 shot though, but not many more than 1... Have a great day, Steve
454 casull operates at or above 60.000 psi
Wilma McDermott - Yes, indeed, and even up to 65,000 psi. - a real blaster..!! Best regards, Steve
A wall hangers no fun
I'm not sure why you didnt include powder coated bullets, because that's what I reload. Actually, hardcastle powder coated bullets for hunting or self defense against the big nastys that want a bite or two out of you or just to maul you to death. Speak about these please, because I dont believe there the same as jacketed or just cast bullets. Correct me in anyway needed please.
454Casull - A lot of the rules apply to PC bullets - if you want penetration, you have to cast the bullets hard; expansion, cast 'em soft. The PC will prevent leading in either case. Crimp in crimping grooves or taper crimp is no grooves present. But where PC bullets differ is that, with the PC, the hardness is much less a factor when matching up with the velocity of our loads. Used to be, if we wanted velocity, we needed harder bullets, but PC makes that much less of an issue, within reason, of course. If the bullets are too soft, the rifling won't grip as well PC or not. Plated bullets are good, but many don't have crimp grooves so we have to use taper crimps, or use roll crimps that are on the lighter side. Good shootin' to ya, Steve