How to Remove, Strip and Rebuild: Turbo Boost Control Solenoid. Freelander TD4
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- เผยแพร่เมื่อ 28 พ.ย. 2019
- As part of an investigation into a smokey diesel Freelander TD4 this video now looks at the turbo control solenoid. Testing, removing and stripping it down to check for problems. This is the M47 BMW Diesel engine as also used on a lot of BMWs like the 320d etc.
A common problem is smoke at idle at 2500 rpm. A later video deals with this in more detail, including a fix, but here we show that pushing more air in the engine removes the smoke and so hints at the solution used in a later video.
If you prefer to just buy a new boost control solenoid, you will find many online on the usual sites:
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Your a life saver, honestly, I brought a brand new solenoid as the old one was making no boost at all, as the mechanic connected it back up, the pipes were all tangled, so stupidly I though to remove the pipes not knowing how fragile the ends are on VAC IN and OUT are, snapping one alone the way 🤦🏻♂️, ur video saved me going out buying another, as I can swap the top bit from the old one, so thank you very much,
Cheers
Thank you so much for all your videos.
I watch them just to have some knowledge even though I don’t have any of these problems.
It’s good to know that your videos are here.
Ash from Scotland 🏴
Thanks, nice to hear from you again.
om g thankyou matey
Hi there, I’m new to fixing turbo problems on my cars. Really helpful video. We have intermittent boost pressure on our TD4. Looking to change the solenoid. Question for you ….. can the solenoid cause to waste gate to stick open?
Since the solenoid moves the waste get then yes it could possibly stick in the open or closed position if it is rusted up. Take it apart and see it it moves freely, if it does then maybe the turbo wastegate/lever is corroded and stuck which can happen.
Hi,
Thank you for sharing your findings and testing methods! What I wanted to ask, to make sure if my solenoid is being actuated the right way or not, at idle, do you remeber if the actuator rod is fully retracted, like with other cars? I get 11V at idle, being ground controled. Ground wire integrity is ok, and I also get alternator power on the positive wire. It is a bit strange that the turbo geometry is not fully engaged at idle when it is needed the most🤔. Thank you!
Yes I think that was a similar situation to my car. Strangely it is not max turbo boost setting on solenoid at idle. Probably to help emissions or economy, not that the turbo is doing much anyhow at idle but maybe it makes a small difference. It’s one of the reasons I made that simple boost controller (see that on my channel) so that it’s on max boost all the time unless it hits the maximum pressure, when it’s cut. It certainly makes it pick up the revs quicker and removes that common ‘smoke when stationary revving at 2500 - 3000 rpm’ due to poor engine air flow (too carbonised up).
Right, so I guess that means there's nothing wrong with it, it is the ECU map commanding the solenoid at idle in such way. Makes no sense though, because normally at idle, when there is no high speed for the exhaust gases, the turbo vanes should be fully actuated to reduce turbo lag as much as posible right from the moment you start accelerating, only to descrease the vacuum applied accordingly, as the air pressure goes up with the revs. At least that's how most of the cars I've worked on deal with turbo pressure. You can really see a difference with the controller fitted in your video, also with smoke reduction I guess.
But how's the acceleration when turbo is at 100% right from the start? It should definitely go through gears noticeably faster...
Maybe this design is made in such a way that it applies full vacuum to the turbo only when certain conditions are met, like when pressing the throttle pedal close to the floor right from the start, and not progressively like when you drive to save fuel...🤔 I'll have to test this while driving from a stop, to see if the ecu switches the solenoid to full ground for a few moments until the pressure reaches the max limit or I let the foot off the pedal.
@@libarca89 Yes it accelerates quicker with the manual boost controller giving max boost via the solenoid.
instaBlaster...
Hi,
Great video! One question. My td4 is very shaky (rough idling, hard to start, terrible acceleration and loss of power and check engine light) like going uphill will bring me down to 60kph. I am changing the boost pressure sensor and this week and will check the solenoid and vacuum hoses, do you think this could be a cause for my problems?
Sounds like boost pressure problem, at the least. Check inlet manifold pressure (MAP sensor reading) and high pressure fuel sensor for any injection problems.
Thxxxx you sir
Cheers
I have a problem with my car that loses power at the start
hi, any idea why the boost control solenoid does not get the right 12volts power , i measured with a multimeter and it gets around 8 volts , which makes my freelander go into limp mode at 2000 rpm , and does not go up (checks engine appears and gas pedal does not respond to any push )
Are you measuring the voltage across the solenoid? If so that is probably about right as the signal is pulse width modulated (rapidly switches the full 12v on and off), so it may well read as an average of 8v. Your lack of power sounds like loss of boost pressure. Check for any split or holed hoses in the turbo output pipes.
Repaired the boost control valve, tested it and it works. Still got P1E30 code, no leaks found on turbo hoses. Also vacuum is supplied to the solenoid. What else?
That seems to be a check of the solenoid coil resistance, check the wiring and the coil resistance is not open circuit. See:
www.landyzone.co.uk/land-rover/2005-td4-giving-p1e30-error-code.344738/
@@comeinhandynow
Thank you very much!
Happened to be a broken wire (ground or phase) due to oxidation. Fixed it and now turbo works as before. Cheers!
Hi whereabouts does the bigger pipe of the 3 go to from the solenoid
So one goes to the vacuum pump/tank, one goes to the turbo actuator, the other one is a vent to air so should go to a filter and then a high up open to air pipe
@@comeinhandynow cheers pal
The top pipe has snapped off my solenoid ,I’ve ordered a replacement because I was getting p0046 error code and spotted this ,trouble is there’s currently no vacuum pipe I can see nearby so it’s been removed prior to my ownership ,my egr isn’t connected so can I run the blanked off egr vacuum pipe to the solenoid top nipple ?
If not there’s a short piece of vacuum pipe on the back of the vacuum accumulator tank which has a screw in the end ,can I take the vacuum from there ?
The vacuum line should come from the vacuum pump (some models had a tank as well I believe). Usually the vacuum pump goes to both the egr and turbo solenoid via t-junctionm as in the video, in your case youy dont need the T to feed the egr of course.
@@comeinhandynow I’ve found a diagram on line showing that if the tank is fitted (mine has one) then the solenoid vac line attaches to the back of the tank ,thanks
I have a 2002 t4 freelander and I’m trying to locate the turbo to replace ? And is this something I can do at home if so how would one attack it ??
It is down the back of the engine, not the easiest place to get to. Buy a Haynes workshop manual for this car to help.
also be certain it is the turbo that needs changing as a clogged crankcase filter can push oil through the turbo oil seals and make it smoke and look like the turbo has gone. Change the filter first.
Yeh definitely turbo was driving then massive smoke screen behind emptied all my engine oil too how should I replace from above or below there is no videos about mate thank you 🙏
I'm getting a loss of power after splashing puddles. And very lumpy and juddering running. If I turn the car off and re start it runs fine. Have u ever heard of this and do u know what causes it
Petrol or Diesel?
@@comeinhandynow 2006 td4
@@raptorrestorations That is a tricky problem to diagnose remotely. The usual checks would be to check for fuel by checking the HP fuel rail sensor to see if it is in range and check turbo boost/inlet pressure to check air is getting in ok, but your symptoms suggest something electrical is getting upset. Sorry I can’t be of more use.
@@comeinhandynow thank you for replying I will have a check of all that later on this evening. Great channel 👏 very helpful
Next video remove turbo. Plsss. Thanx
Looks time consuming, maybe engine out job. Not sure. Anyone else know out there? Probably in the Haynes manual.
comeinhandynow they Haynes manual advises that you have to remove the IRD to remove the turbo - however there is a good walkthrough on removing a turbo on landyzone forums without having to remove the IRD. I have a Oil leak possibly coming from drain pipe so I’m about to try and remove and check. Thanks for your video as it has explained a few things to me. Sam
Hi , great vid , would you consider having a look at mine its a very long story , I’ve a passion for these old vehicles but my mechanical knowledge is limited certainly not as well informed as yours ? Just a thought ? May a possible video ?
Thanks again and great video Laurie
Thanks. I am probably not close to you so not practical.
Well done for posting the video. However your car has been messed about with.
There should be a vacuum accumulator (about the size of a Coke can) between the main vacuum line and the boost control solenoid valve. Also the boost control solenoid vacuum pipe is routed incorrectly. It should follow the injector harness along the top of the cam cover, and down the far side of the engine to the boost control solenoid. It shouldn't be clipped to the bulkhead like yours.
You need the accumulator, or boost can drop off under sustained full boost operation, dew the vacuum depletion.
Nice video though.
I think the vacuum accumulator is on the L series diesel isn’t it? Not the td4.
@@comeinhandynow
It's on the TD4 and not the earlier L series. ;)
FLOG
That statement at 13:00 is ridiculous. The ecu is way more intelligent than you might think.
Since pickup and driveability can be improved by bypassing the ecu, then lets just says there is room for improvement, or they set it that way for emissions or economy.