I had the same problem with my E320 cdi Mercedes. The actuator went faulty sometimes it would boost the turbo and sometimes I got no boost, which was quite dangerous as you never knew if you would get full boost or nothing. It would sometimes put the car into limp, which was another pain. I sent the actuator away for reconditioning and that worked for a year or so, then it failed again. As the actuator was under a lifetime warranty I had it repaired again. The second repair lasted a similar time to the first, and started to act up again. I contacted the company yet again but this time got no response. I have now purchased a new chinese unit and was not expecting much. I was wrong, the car has been brilliant, once the gearbox had done a relearn (it was not happy with full boost) I have watch videos on youtube saying the chinese units are junk, I think not. The Merc unit is much better located the Land Rover unit you fitted. That was not easy. Great Job.
👍 nice to know as ive not had any trouble with them on the mercs! we've done a lot on the ford 2.2s .. ive noticed quite a lot of turbos with them on now, seen them on quite a few mercs just never had a faulty one yet.. we've had quite a few of the cheaper £50ish Chinese ones that we fitted on the transits and they've all been spot on tbf.. a lot cheaper and easier than replacing the whole turbo! 👌
I have the same problem. The workshop is asking me to change the turbo which will cost 3000 GBP minimum. Thanks a ton for your video. Will take my car and see if this part change solves the issue at a fraction of the cost they are quoting. 🙏🙏🙏
Hi so got the actuator back and they tested it and said it was all good. Said it could be a build up of carbon in the turbo. Suggested refit actuator, add Forte turbo cleaner , reset fault codes and give car a good run and this should clear it. What do you think ? Thanks
This is a great video; thanks. After my car went into limp home mode and showed two of the codes mentioned, I removed the connector, cleaned the contacts and reset the codes. The car is running again but I've ordered a new actuator anyway. Do you know if it's possible to buy the orange latch that was unlocked in the video before removing the connector? This was missing on mine.
Hi guys, hope you’re well. Great video on replacing the actuator. Just curiosity… if u wanted to replace turbo and actuator as an assembly is there access to remove the 3 bolts holding turbo to manifold? Or would you remove manifold complete with turbo and swap turbo on the bench? Cheers guys, great vid!!! 👍👍👍
Great video, thanks. Many mechanics seem to be adamant that you can’t do this due to the mapping issue. Did you have a reason why you suspected that it wasn’t true?
👍 just that we've fitted quite a few now without any trouble.. it is obviously better to fit complete with a new turbo but obviously a lot more expensive! we've fitted a few now that have still been going strong for 2+ Years
Hi I've got probleme land rover évoque 2.2 diesel I've replace it and p2263-21 comes back when I hit the pedal full I've changed the turbo because I find it broken the p code comes then I changed the turbo actuator and the same probleme I've checked for any leaks there is no air leaks and the egr is canceled. Boost pressure cleaned, and it's the same probleme p2263-21 when I drive it hard it comes up note when I read the value of the actuator it's higher than the calculateur by %4 is it the probleme and u know the is no méthode for putting it its standard just replace it erase code and drive plz help....
Hi my old man has a discovery sport 2.2 with fault codes p0047, p0046, p259e. It was running fine then went into limp mode with these codes. So my question is can I remove the actuator and send it away to have it fixed? I have a place that solely does these. Once it’s fixed is it just a case of refitting it and clearing fault codes ? And also are they in a similar position to the freelander ? Thanks for your help.
Have Reduced Engine Performance and no turbo boost intermittent on 2009 Auto Freelander 2. Does this have the same actuator? Maybe crank position sensor would give the same fault?
yeah it should have, you need to get the fault codes read , if its got some relating to the the actuator its more than likely the fault 👍 .. crank position sensor wouldn't usually cause it to not boost
I've got the P0299 reduced engine performance but no engine management light. Cleaned the MAP and MAF sensor which I think solved it for a short period but it's come back. The turbo works if I clear the faults but will always come back. I wonder if I replace the actuator if this will resolve the issue.
@@diydaly Thanks. That DTC came up after I was cold starting in -14 degrees. Took ages for the engine to turn over and I thought that I maybe had some dirty sensors/fuel filter. I'm hoping it's the actuator and not the turbo itself. Will have to wait until the weekend to get a proper look at the underside. Will let you know what I find
@@diydaly Also, forgot to mention that clearing the code will get the car running again as normal until you put your foot down. I'm hoping this is some kind of electrical issue with the actuator as I can get boost if codes are reset.
@@HaggisMuncher-69-420 Hi mate, I have the same issue with my 2007 freelander, P0299 code and after deleting it runs fine for 200-300 miles and suddenly comes back. Air leaks seems fine. I wonder what your's come up to?
@@fitimismaili5910 Wow. What a rabbit hole I went down with this car. Had this problem since January. I replaced all boost hoses (no leaks on original), new intercooler, turbo rebuild (as per garage's suggestion). I've had a new turbo actuator put on but it wasn't programmed to the Freelander - generic Chinese actuator. Looks to be that my old actuator was broken, the Chinese replacement wasn't coded. Just received a new actuator that has been programmed to the car. will hopefully install later today if I get time. the last mechanic I took it to on Saturday said that the Chinese one "works" but isn't sending the right signal back to the ECU (If I remember, he said the ECU is expecting 6v but the actuator is only sending 2.4v or something like that). Bought a new one pre-programmed as the garage I was recommended to wanted me to take my turbo off the car myself and I just don't have the space to do that. I'll let you know how I get on.
Hi, I've got a freelander 2011 2.2 Diesel, auto. I'm getting just the code P2263, would this be the actuator or do you recommend looking at other possible causes first? Appreciate your help, regards
@@diydaly Hi mate, just a quick one, I took my actuator off the car and checked part number which is 49477-19600, I ordered one from where you recommended with part number 49477-01203, are these compatible?? Or will I need to specifically get one with the exact part number?? Appreciate your help again mate, Scott
Hi bud , I’m trying my to chase a problem on my 2009 td4 fl2 , that hasn’t got any codes. I’m getting inconsistent boost and what sounds like a dump valve / hear the turbo spooling . Would that point to a actuator fault ?
Looking at this fault ,, I have a intermittent fault from set off on fl2 on 13 plate ,, between 1000 2000 rpm power for a split second but feels like get worse did lose power tonight then came back to life ,, but no faults codes coming up on dash and no limp mode yet ,, could this be a singed that my one could be faulty ?
Possibly but I’d expect it to log a fault code tbh mate .. it would be abit of a gamble without as there’s a few issues that could cause similar problems
@@Leocow6643 Hi, did you find out and fix the issue? I have a similar intermittent fault, also a 13 plate FL2 SD4. Happened 3-4 times a year, now happened 3 times in the last week. No lights, faults and drives fine, but struggles momemtarily for 2-3 seconds between about 1500-2200 rpm then drives fine again...
@@MegaVinny73 how do ,, I narrowed it down to faulty egr valve just by going through parts that could be a problem ,, I got the blanking plate of eBay with the hole in to stop engine light coming on really easy to fit 10 minutes job only put it on to see if made a different to fault and it cured it still on now and the fault has never happened since ,, 4 pound sorted a bad head out ,, but a think the crack shaft sensor can give same kind of fault too and you can get them off eBay and not silly money ,, easy to fit there is a video on here how to fit one ,, I would definitely start with these two things things first and just keep ticking a list ,, it drove me crazy the fault but got there in end 👍
New turbo actuator Ebay - ebay.us/IsEDqn
Diagnostic machine used in this video:
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Tools used:
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Stubby 3/8 ratchet - ebay.us/2eGqem
Pliers - ebay.us/fTNBNV
18V Milwaukee impact driver - ebay.us/vmpTty
Socket set - ebay.us/7tUKdM
Ring Inspection Lamp - amzn.to/3gGWHcG
Small flat snap on screwdriver - ebay.us/plNX5O
If your interested check out my website - www.diydaly.com
Useful links:
Car Analytics - Vehicle information checker - tidd.ly/3B2PEbx
I had the same problem with my E320 cdi Mercedes. The actuator went faulty sometimes it would boost the turbo and sometimes I got no boost, which was quite dangerous as you never knew if you would get full boost or nothing. It would sometimes put the car into limp, which was another pain.
I sent the actuator away for reconditioning and that worked for a year or so, then it failed again. As the actuator was under a lifetime warranty I had it repaired again. The second repair lasted a similar time to the first, and started to act up again. I contacted the company yet again but this time got no response. I have now purchased a new chinese unit and was not expecting much. I was wrong, the car has been brilliant, once the gearbox had done a relearn (it was not happy with full boost)
I have watch videos on youtube saying the chinese units are junk, I think not.
The Merc unit is much better located the Land Rover unit you fitted. That was not easy. Great Job.
👍 nice to know as ive not had any trouble with them on the mercs! we've done a lot on the ford 2.2s .. ive noticed quite a lot of turbos with them on now, seen them on quite a few mercs just never had a faulty one yet.. we've had quite a few of the cheaper £50ish Chinese ones that we fitted on the transits and they've all been spot on tbf.. a lot cheaper and easier than replacing the whole turbo! 👌
I have the same problem. The workshop is asking me to change the turbo which will cost 3000 GBP minimum. Thanks a ton for your video. Will take my car and see if this part change solves the issue at a fraction of the cost they are quoting. 🙏🙏🙏
No problem 👍 hope you get it sorted 👍
Great thanks so much for the reply. Fingers crossed it all works out and I don’t need a new turbo. 👍
👍👍🤞
Hi so got the actuator back and they tested it and said it was all good. Said it could be a build up of carbon in the turbo. Suggested refit actuator, add Forte turbo cleaner , reset fault codes and give car a good run and this should clear it. What do you think ? Thanks
always worth a try with the cleaner first tbf mate @@user-ne3ho6fo6t
@@diydaly Have you heard this working ?
@@user-ne3ho6fo6t not often but sometimes
Thank you it helps all the best to you
Glad it helpedp
Great stuff thanks for sharing 👍👏
😃👌👍 thanks mate!
This is a great video; thanks. After my car went into limp home mode and showed two of the codes mentioned, I removed the connector, cleaned the contacts and reset the codes. The car is running again but I've ordered a new actuator anyway. Do you know if it's possible to buy the orange latch that was unlocked in the video before removing the connector? This was missing on mine.
Thanks 👍 I’m not 100% sure tbh , second hand might be the only option
Hi guys, hope you’re well. Great video on replacing the actuator. Just curiosity… if u wanted to replace turbo and actuator as an assembly is there access to remove the 3 bolts holding turbo to manifold? Or would you remove manifold complete with turbo and swap turbo on the bench?
Cheers guys, great vid!!! 👍👍👍
Thanks! I’m not 100% sure but I think you can remove it without the complete manifold
Great video, thanks. Many mechanics seem to be adamant that you can’t do this due to the mapping issue. Did you have a reason why you suspected that it wasn’t true?
👍 just that we've fitted quite a few now without any trouble.. it is obviously better to fit complete with a new turbo but obviously a lot more expensive! we've fitted a few now that have still been going strong for 2+ Years
Hi I've got probleme land rover évoque 2.2 diesel I've replace it and p2263-21 comes back when I hit the pedal full I've changed the turbo because I find it broken the p code comes then I changed the turbo actuator and the same probleme I've checked for any leaks there is no air leaks and the egr is canceled. Boost pressure cleaned, and it's the same probleme p2263-21 when I drive it hard it comes up note when I read the value of the actuator it's higher than the calculateur by %4 is it the probleme and u know the is no méthode for putting it its standard just replace it erase code and drive plz help....
Nic video sir 👍👍👌
Thanks! 👌👍
Hi my old man has a discovery sport 2.2 with fault codes p0047, p0046, p259e. It was running fine then went into limp mode with these codes. So my question is can I remove the actuator and send it away to have it fixed? I have a place that solely does these. Once it’s fixed is it just a case of refitting it and clearing fault codes ? And also are they in a similar position to the freelander ? Thanks for your help.
Yes you can do that 👍 I’ve had to do the same before
Have Reduced Engine Performance and no turbo boost intermittent on 2009 Auto Freelander 2. Does this have the same actuator? Maybe crank position sensor would give the same fault?
yeah it should have, you need to get the fault codes read , if its got some relating to the the actuator its more than likely the fault 👍 .. crank position sensor wouldn't usually cause it to not boost
I’d love to know what’s busted in the actuator. There’s obviously electronic & mechanical components. Maybe the arm has seized in position.
seems to have failed electronically mate, the arm moved
Broken solder joints probably, they use unleaded solder for environmental reasons and its much more brittle than leaded stuff.
hi, my Freelander has the same problem, i was told the new actuator needs to be coded to the turbo, if so how is this done,
Not codes as such , there is a basic calibration that can be done via a diagnostic machine but u may find it works ok
Hello, is the actuator still working well? I have to buy one and I have seen many on ebay and I don't know which one to buy. Thank you
Yeah still going strong 👍
I've got the P0299 reduced engine performance but no engine management light.
Cleaned the MAP and MAF sensor which I think solved it for a short period but it's come back.
The turbo works if I clear the faults but will always come back.
I wonder if I replace the actuator if this will resolve the issue.
These don’t usually cause p0299 , always check for and air leaks first , there is a chance it’s the actually or could be the turbo
@@diydaly Thanks. That DTC came up after I was cold starting in -14 degrees. Took ages for the engine to turn over and I thought that I maybe had some dirty sensors/fuel filter.
I'm hoping it's the actuator and not the turbo itself. Will have to wait until the weekend to get a proper look at the underside. Will let you know what I find
@@diydaly Also, forgot to mention that clearing the code will get the car running again as normal until you put your foot down.
I'm hoping this is some kind of electrical issue with the actuator as I can get boost if codes are reset.
@@HaggisMuncher-69-420 Hi mate, I have the same issue with my 2007 freelander, P0299 code and after deleting it runs fine for 200-300 miles and suddenly comes back. Air leaks seems fine.
I wonder what your's come up to?
@@fitimismaili5910 Wow. What a rabbit hole I went down with this car.
Had this problem since January.
I replaced all boost hoses (no leaks on original), new intercooler, turbo rebuild (as per garage's suggestion).
I've had a new turbo actuator put on but it wasn't programmed to the Freelander - generic Chinese actuator.
Looks to be that my old actuator was broken, the Chinese replacement wasn't coded. Just received a new actuator that has been programmed to the car. will hopefully install later today if I get time.
the last mechanic I took it to on Saturday said that the Chinese one "works" but isn't sending the right signal back to the ECU (If I remember, he said the ECU is expecting 6v but the actuator is only sending 2.4v or something like that).
Bought a new one pre-programmed as the garage I was recommended to wanted me to take my turbo off the car myself and I just don't have the space to do that.
I'll let you know how I get on.
Hi, I've got a freelander 2011 2.2 Diesel, auto. I'm getting just the code P2263, would this be the actuator or do you recommend looking at other possible causes first? Appreciate your help, regards
Im fairly sure yours will be the same issue mate 👍
@@diydaly appreciate your help mate, thanks, I'll let you know how I get on 👍👍👍
@@scottmorley7188 👍
@@diydaly Hi mate, just a quick one, I took my actuator off the car and checked part number which is 49477-19600, I ordered one from where you recommended with part number 49477-01203, are these compatible?? Or will I need to specifically get one with the exact part number?? Appreciate your help again mate, Scott
@@scottmorley7188 Hi, did you get to the bottom of this and fix yours with just the actuator? What were the symptoms other than the code itself?
Hi bud , I’m trying my to chase a problem on my 2009 td4 fl2 , that hasn’t got any codes.
I’m getting inconsistent boost and what sounds like a dump valve / hear the turbo spooling . Would that point to a actuator fault ?
Hmm I wouldn’t of thought so tbh , they usually fail electronically so always log. A code
@@diydaly cheers buddy , my next options seems to pull the turbo and manifold out and inspect it
@@Riskify74 👍
@@Riskify74 👍
@@Riskify74 👍👍
Looking at this fault ,, I have a intermittent fault from set off on fl2 on 13 plate ,, between 1000 2000 rpm power for a split second but feels like get worse did lose power tonight then came back to life ,, but no faults codes coming up on dash and no limp mode yet ,, could this be a singed that my one could be faulty ?
Possibly but I’d expect it to log a fault code tbh mate .. it would be abit of a gamble without as there’s a few issues that could cause similar problems
Thanks for replying,, putting a scan tool on tomorrow and see if I can see out in live data too
@@Leocow6643 👍
@@Leocow6643 Hi, did you find out and fix the issue? I have a similar intermittent fault, also a 13 plate FL2 SD4. Happened 3-4 times a year, now happened 3 times in the last week. No lights, faults and drives fine, but struggles momemtarily for 2-3 seconds between about 1500-2200 rpm then drives fine again...
@@MegaVinny73 how do ,, I narrowed it down to faulty egr valve just by going through parts that could be a problem ,, I got the blanking plate of eBay with the hole in to stop engine light coming on really easy to fit 10 minutes job only put it on to see if made a different to fault and it cured it still on now and the fault has never happened since ,, 4 pound sorted a bad head out ,, but a think the crack shaft sensor can give same kind of fault too and you can get them off eBay and not silly money ,, easy to fit there is a video on here how to fit one ,, I would definitely start with these two things things first and just keep ticking a list ,, it drove me crazy the fault but got there in end 👍