Making a Late Victorian Bodice // Mock-ups and Muslins
ฝัง
- เผยแพร่เมื่อ 21 ต.ค. 2020
- Join me as I jump into Truly Victorian's 1883 tail bodice pattern, making a fully interlined and boned version to check the fit before I dare even get close to any silk!
TV 462 Tail Bodice Pattern: trulyvictorian.info/index.php...
Hecklinger's How to Cut and Make Ladies Garments 1886: archive.org/details/hecklinge...
Looking Inside a Victorian bodice with Renaissance Fabrics: • Behind the Seams: Expl...
Inside a bustle gown from the MET: • 19th-Century American ...
Orange Gown at MET, 1880: www.metmuseum.org/art/collect...
Fashion Plates from Left to right:
i.pinimg.com/originals/eb/63/...
/ 460563499397499774
i.pinimg.com/originals/5a/b9/...
Mood's Muslin Bundles : www.moodfabrics.com/5-yards-o...
Music and Sound Effects from Epidemic Sound.
Where I get my pattern drafting paper: atlaslevy.com/Paper_c_13.html (not sponsored)
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But wait there's more! A PO BOX finally wahoo!
First, a disclaimer: So many of you have kindly offered to send me things, including vintage items you may have inherited, and I am so honored you would think of me and of course I do adore vintage treasures, however, unfortunately I only have so much storage space currently! So there is a chance that if something just wont work for me, or doesn't fit me etc, that I may not be able to keep all of your lovely things. Please only send things if you are okay with the possibility that I may donate items I just cannot keep. If you would prefer I put things that I can't keep into the TCH Etsy shop to help raise funds for me and the channel, please specify this in a note or letter in your parcel. Thank you so much!
Bianca Esposito
PO Box 632177
Highlands Ranch, CO 80163
Thank you for watching! - แนวปฏิบัติและการใช้ชีวิต
Cicada dress because your historical sewing lay dormant for years like actual cicadas? I love everything about this series of videos, I have a sudden urge to buy yards and yards of black fabric!
Thank you Natalie! Also, yes, I realized that after I decided to use cicadas in part of the embellishment on the day bodice and then I've run with it a bit since 😅
I can't express how hype I am for this costume. I've gotten my whole family hooked on it.
My husband is “watching” football but keeps glancing at my computer
Thank you Chae! ❤❤❤
I like the length of the tails. It really lends to the Vampire/Goth look (bat wings, don't you know). I think the the lack of a bag lining was because, back then, clothing was being constantly altered to the newest mode of fashion. A bagged lining would really hamper that. Larger seam allowances were used, also, for this same reason.
Thanks Rob! I think the side points I'll definitely make longer for that bat wing effect indeed!
From my own experience I can say that using a very short machine stitch length does come with a caution. With the wrong type of fabric, "tear along the dotted line" no longer applies only to paper.
Oh Yes! I learned this the hard way. Always work out your stitch length and tension on scraps of your final fabric. I was so mad at myself.
So happy to see a video where the music so accurately reflects the "going into battle" feeling of sewing a seam. I'm loving all the drama in these videos, you are killing it!
For some reason, this music sounds like Xmas to me... 😜
To be filed under unsolicited advice: Guttermann is cross wound for machines with horizontal spool pins. Vertical spool pins introduce an extra twist in the thread as it feeds. If you have feeding issues with those Guttermann spools on a vintage machine (some of mine do, some don't), either switch to "stacked" thread or get a spool stand.
This is truly some detailed knowledge and I love it!
That’s very useful information and may explain issues I’ve had with thread before
This is so perfect for the Spoopy time of year. I'm watching this like a Hitchcock film! NO, Closet Historian! Turn around!! Oh, Bianca! Can't you see, that sharp left turn you took, took you off the main drag! The GPS made you miss the entrance to that lovely, clean Bates Motel where the tall thin good looking bisexual young man works! Instead, you came the back way up to that old Victorian house on the little hill! No, NO! Your car broke down RIGHT IN MY BACKYARD!!!! That's right, my dear, I'm a Neo-Edwardian, and you just waltzed right into my clutches. What? you're going to cut silk, here, my dear, you may borrow my micro-serrated sheers, they will make quick work of that slippery old silk. Don't mind the ravens, dear child, taming the local corvids is hobby of mine. What? Oh, yes, that silly little song about washing her face and combing her hair seems to calm them, but never mind that. What? WHy where could that lovely toile of yours have gone to? It was here a moment ago. Isn't that always the way with sewing, you spend most of your time looking for the thing you JUST HAD in your hand!
Run, Closet Historian! RRUUUNNN!
You may not make it out with your clothes!
Ah, forgive me, dear, but the NaNo approaches quickly, and I am feeling wordy.
And clicked on that within 4 minutes of upload. I love the spooky intro. I have enjoyed having you see while I am sewing my annoying velvet cuffs to my 40’s dress. Thank you for another great video.
Thank you Stephanie! Velvet is always such a pleasure to work with eek!
I love the little “Listen, don’t make it rude” 😄
I love this bodice, it is very elegant. You are doing a great job getting the fit and styling right. For me, and this is purely my own aesthetic, I would keep the bustle pleats the same length but I would really dramatise those points at the sides. Love your work and am spending many happy hours binge watching your back catalogue :-)
Thank you Julia! I definitely want to make the side points longer for sure, the more bat-like the better 😅
For folks like myself who aren't enamored with the summer season, I love cicadas because they are harbingers of the end of summer approaching. AKA The time of year when the trees are screaming.
that is interesting, here in Australia it signifies the warmer weather coming
In Argentina we called them dive bombers because as you would walk by, they would drop out of the branches to the ground, pelting you on their way down.
RD this sounds terrifying for me eek!
Ah the trees are screaming, so lovely ❤
@@TheClosetHistorian It totally was, the first few times, because we didn't know what was doing it! Once they land, they just sit there all innocent like so you don't suspect them. Plus, the noise they make seems like it should be coming from something shaped a little more like a fighter jet 😜
Eventually got used to it, tho. It only smarts a tad if they actually run into you, which they usually don't.
I think the tails look fine. Before you change their length, make the skirt. How the skirt falls over the bustle may help determine the best look for the tails
Thank you Jeri! I will luckily be making the skirts before the day bodice, so I can try the next muslin on over them indeed!
I was going to bed, but I guess ill be up for another 43 minutes 🥰🤭😊 I always get so happy every time you upload!💗
Ah! Thank you Ami! Get some sleep too, I could use some myself 😴
The white bodice with the black petticoat looks like a 1880s version of that Chanel New Look suit, especially the points of the tail.
*Dior's New Look, i think you meant, what with the princess seaming, cinched waist and full skirt.
Chanel's signature is the flat, short suit look, typically in textured fabrics like tweed and boucle.
😊
I noticed you haven’t been using a thimble for your hand sewing and as someone who always thought thimbles were the devil’s work I can really recommend the clover natural fit leather thimbles. Soooo comfortable I often forget I’m wearing it and has taken the strain off my finger tips.
I can't wait for this dreeesss. Also the modern hair with victorian dresses oddly works? Idk. There's something about it. Kinda Bladerunner-ish
Thank you Kyle! More modern Victorian hairstyle fusions coming up shortly ha
I love seeing your progress
Thank you! I think the pointy tips longer for sure, like bat wings indeed!
You are nearing 40,000 subs Bianca!!! Holy Cow 🙏🏻🙏🏻🙏🏻🙏🏻
I really enjoyed the bug talk! I'm a beginner taxidermist and I have 10 quails in my freezer. It's a lovely hobby! Hope you enjoy your bug forays
Thank you Steffi! I have dried butterflies and some pins now, so I'll see how it goes!
Collections by Clarks' Emslie Lulin slip-ons are a very good Edwardian-esque shoe. JCPenney has them for @ $94. They're 100% real leather with, I believe, memory foam inner soles. If you get them, go down a half-size down from your usual: I wear a 8.5 instead of my usual 9.
Boy, am I glad I procrastinated making my TV bodice. Thank you for this video and for bringing up my childhood trauma of having to mow the lawn during the 17 year cicada swarm.
Yikes that sounds...crunchy?
Mock-up turned out pretty good though I do agree with you on the length of the tail. Either shorter or even longer so it drapes down a bit more, either would look better, IMO. As for the buttons you could always go hook and eye on those (if ya didn't wanna make a ton of button holes) all in all the fit was really good!
Thank you! But I've bought such pretty glass buttons see... ;)
October is DEFINITELY the best month of the year! Also, that broach is beautiful!
Thank you Joanna!
Strange utility room noises are great sound effects for a spooky Halloween theme 👍
This looks great!!! I really like the points at the sides, that looks super cool. and the fit looks good too. I would totally dye this thing and wear it somewhere, maybe the grocery store or Walmart on a Friday night. lol
Thank you Deborah!
I lived through the last (2004?) cicada eruption in the Washington DC area. They don't bother people, but there are so many of them ... and the noise! At least they were only noisy during the day.
I've only recently started watching you... I am so glad TH-cam suggested your channel to me! So far it's the cicada dress that I've been watching. I am loving the spooky decor, warm fuzzy home feeling of people wearing lots of black, and hearing your love for October/Halloween! It's wonderful, thank you so much for sharing all of this with us! I'm very new to finally starting to sew this time period (normally sew Halloween costumes and artist-daily-wear creative sewing design.). Finally, with the internet exploding with patterns, wonderful makers making, and a plethora of historic photos and information, finally it's possible to start learning! :) makes my little heart so happy
Thank you! All Halloween all the time I say 🖤🦇🎃
I have just discovered your channel! I am a 60 something year old black woman who’s has been in love with historical romance novels since my teens. The descriptions of the clothing was always a great part of my love for these stories. I could never imagined myself wearing the clothes in real life, cause where would I have worn them, around the house? Finding your channel has been heaven sent! I have subscribed and am currently binge watching the content! I don’t sew but I can live vicariously through your videos! Impressive! Live long and prosper!
Thank you Mali! I too love some good clothing descriptions. I've always been dreaming of princess dresses and just never grew out of it I suppose!
I loved your tangent about bugs!
15:55 I giggled quite a bit when you said you're in a committed relationship with your vintage machine - I enjoyed it so much that I want to use that instead of saying like a new phone contract. Ooh imagine: "I am entering a new committed relationship, their name is Pixel and having gone out with their older sibling I have high expectations for the younger!!" 😂😂
Thank you so much for a wonderful video. It's like sitting next to a good friend and watching her create a project while chatting on and learning. You create such a comfortable and amicable feel that is just charming. We're in Spring here so green is in and the smell of fresh mown grass. But your friendly chatter fits just as well. So pleasant and relaxing.
Thank you so much Kaytie! ❤
It is so vital to show making mock-ups that do not fit. It's essential to see how to alter patterns so that people do not think that things never fit on them. Which is silly, for nothing out of the "box" ever fits anyone. McConnell is a great name for the owl and, as always, you are so nerdy, you are just too cute for words. My neice likes to sew, but I don't have a daughter. I'd adopt you! Hah! That's what we're here for, to form our own community of costume nerds... Keep it up, this is great!
Thank you! I am indeed quite nerdy, ha! 😅
The day bodice looks like a Riding Amazone. Priorattire has a video on that style if you needed aesthetic research.
the soap on your threads thing works about the same as waxing your thread to prevent issues with tangling and improve glide when hand stitching
I’m so excited to watch this project come together because you always explain everything so well. I also love McConnell xx
Thank you Beverley!
So excited for the cicadas! I also rarely use linings day to day, costuming definitely requires a lot of layers that I’m still getting used to.
So many layers!!!
Did anyone else get shivers from the cinematography? Fantastic video xx
Thank you Charlotte!
I understand the feeling about working with silk. I'm on my first silk project and have the same feelings about it. We can do it!
I love it. I like the length of the tails as they are. I just think whole garment is beautiful. My ignorance of sewing and fit shouted their presence when you pointed out the fit issues. I did not even see them till you said something. Very ambitious project. Kudos. And I loved watching the process. It is oddly satisfying watching cutting, pinning and sewing
Thank you Ann!
The more I research a topic of fear, the more I get used to it. I was afraid of octopi, still am kinda, but they are so fascinating and quite cute and loveable :)
So happy to see you use the pattern I planned on sewing too ♡
I am excited for the new insect collecting hobby. When shopping out in the wilds isn't as deadly, keep an eye out at antique and vintage markets for pinned and framed specimens. I got an Atlas moth for $5 at my local market.
I saw a huge collection at a booth at my favorite antique mall once (years and years ago) but there were too many of the truly creepy extra large monster beetles with feelers going on so I sort of ran away, but there were probably pretty butterflies and moths too, but I was like "nope, nope, nope" right outta there 😅
To tell the difference between convex and concave- concave goes in like the mouth of a cave!
The end result looks good! I like where the tails end, but that’s a taste thing. Maybe go shorter?
An idea for the boning casings-twill tape! Just sew down the sides of the twill tape to the seam/dart allowance and put the boning in that.
Thank you! I think I'll need a thinner twill tape as all I've got around is quite bulky
Your intro is 🤩 amazing! Your tutorial are top notch! Thank you for sharing 😺🥰
Thank you Helen!
Excited for halloween gothy evening gown! I really enjoy watching the behind the scenes stuff and seeing how all these things come together.
Thank you Shannon!
The big-boy cicadas came out last year for the area's once every 17 year bugapalooza. They were quite charming..
I love the way the opening your videos these days. I also like the lights you use around the sewing machine. The music that you use on your videos are always so great listen to. I like the name of your owl. I really like your vintage sewing machine. I would like to find a sewing machine like that. I do have a treadle sewing machine that still works, this is the sewing machine that I learned to sew on. On the bodice back cut the pleats a little shorter.
Thank you Fay!
Truely magical! Love! Xx
Yessssss. Hi I'm new here and soon I'll be driving into making that exact same bodice. Thank you X100 for putting this into the world!!!!
Yay!!!!! I was so excited to see this come up on my feed! This is my favorite “TV show” at the moment. I can’t wait to see the finished project 👍🏻👍🏻❤️❤️❤️
Thank you! ❤
Wonderful project my dear. Somewhere along the way I acquired a stiffened muslin dress, I was told a young lady who worked in a shop cobbled it together for a wedding dress from the pieces off the cutting room floor. Perhaps I should get it out for you from the vault. When Hello Dolly came out as a film my aunt Roberta was tasked with making bustles for early seventies bridesmaids dresses, and looking over your shoulder as you speak so fast and clipped is so much like I spent my Saturday afternoons as a child! Even the gothic vibe. Aunt Roberta was born minutes after midnight on Halloween 1932 on a lonely windswept cliff side, for real! This she thoroughly enjoyed.
Thank you Susan! How very gothic romance novel of her!
Awesome sewing! Very creepily, youtube knew I just sewed the same pattern... So good to see the same pieces on screen! I modified the pattern to make a blue velvet vest. Can't wait to see the end of this cicada project!
Thank you Diana! A blue velvet vest sounds fabulous to me!
Awesome soundtrack ❤
Long and Sharp batwing like tails!!! The B roll is awesome !!!
I like watching your process.
It's great seeing the behind the scenes work.Thanks
This costume is coming together beautifully! The mockup looked like it could be the real thing, except for the part that it couldn't be buttoned! LOL. Can't wait to see how it turns out.
Thank you Peggy! ❤
Going to binge-watch this whole series now 😎
If I could sew like you, I would make a jacket in the style of that bodice and wear it every freaking day. Looking so forward to the costumes’ end result but definitely enjoying the journey along the way.
Thank you! It would be a lovely daily wear style indeed!
Your bright eyeshadow looks are just everything! Hoping to make my first self-made Victorian outfit this year, probably green because I want to reference arsenic dyed dresses haha.
Such a super challenge, absolutely loving it xx
Thank you Janet!
Thank you for making such quality content! I'm really enjoying these videos as of late!
Thank you C!
your process has helped me with my own project. Thank you
Beautiful work!
Thank you!
Finally set some time aside for this - because a project like that deserves undivided attention :D
Having the bodice in white against the black petticoat looks really striking btw!
Thank you! The contrast of the muslin against the black petticoat really does help show the shape, which is very useful during the mockup stage for sure!
Wow, looks already incredible!
Thank you Zevi!
I think you need to shorten the back by about a half inch? It looks like it's just a little too long right where the corset line is. (I'm short-waisted and have an extremely straight back, so I have to do this a lot!)
Also, I like the idea of a shorter tail, but I think the length the pattern currently has it would look nice in a swishy silk.
Looks absolutely incredible!
Thank you Rio!
That is absolutely lovely and I am psyched for the finished piece!
Thank you Anna!
So cool! Glad the mock-up turned out so well. It looks rather cool with the white bodice and black petticoat
Victorian inspired Mandrin collared bodice with tails would be Avant Garde for the white dress-shirt ❤️ if ever you get inspired to draft a pattern for it next year,
Love your commentary!
Thank you!
But Boy is one of my favorite characters in your vintage travelogue films!
This is a wild idea that probably wont happen, but you've just made me think of it, a whole lookbook of masc outfits as bug boy...
@@TheClosetHistorian OMG how awesome would that be????
I'm so excited to see all the different variations you make of this bodice! I loved the overall look of the mock-up.
Thank you!
Fill you hams and arms with chippings what you put for bedding for hamsters and guineapigs sawdust like stuff that’s what they are filled with , can’t wait to see this finished loving this series ❤️❤️
Ah this makes sense, I'll have to hit up the pet store sometime! Though then I'll spend hours looking at the fish, and the cute bunnies, and the cute birds, and...
Your sewing machine is a joy lv the featherweight👌🏾🌷
I love watching you to sew, it's very calming
Thank you Sam ❤
I just ordered this pattern last night!
You’re making me want to pick up my Hecklinger again and make a massive sleeved blouse to go with my 1890s skirt...
I'm always excited to see your progress and every time I see your vintage machine I am sorely tempted to find one myself.
Thank you Sarah!
Victorian is my favorite era. Naturally, this was an awesome vid!
Thank you!
Tesco do a candle with the scent 'white linen ' it's just lovely. Great video as always.
I love this intro so much ! Great work
Thank you!
It’s the perfect length looks classy
Thanks for sharing the process! Also, loved the eye makeup.
Thank you!
I'm in Australia and the cicadas have just started singing. I love the sound, as it is a sound of summer :)
Really beautiful
Thank you Eleanor!
I have this pattern, I tried to stalk the interwebs to find a tutorial because I was so overwhelmed by the instructions. I finally went for it last week and then today I found your video, lol. I didn’t do tails at all but so far it’s turning out great. Happy to see you make it as well
Wow! Impressive first draft! Love your energy. Can't wait to see the finished bodice.
Thank you Marion!
Looks amazing! I love your videos! And that intro... delicious! ♥
Thank you Adriana!
Rocking that stern Victorian governess look!
Enjoying these Victorian era project videos Bianca, cant wait too see the finished product 😁.
Thank you Andrea!
Lovely video, I enjoy your music choices too. Happy Halloween !
Thank you Sands! Happy Halloween!
This was interesting. Not having ever done any historical patterns it was making my head spin some what. Wow that is a lot of work. Thanks for showing it.
Thank you Debbra!
That bodice fits really well I am really looking forward to seeing the actual gown lots of work well done
Thank you Trudi!
The month of October always makes me perpetually sad. Mostly because we don’t really do Halloween here in Australia, and I really, really wish we did.
A lot of Aussies are all “bah humbug! (I know that’s for a different holiday, but it’s the best term). Why should we import some American consumerist holiday here? It’s not Australian!”
To which I say- Christmas isn’t Australian either (and a lot of our Christmas imagery comes straight from the very American Coca Cola Company). Also, Halloween is fun. That’s my entire argument for why we should have it. It’s fun.
Is that not argument enough? Also, it does kinda suck for Aussie kids, who watch a LOT of American media, and see all the fun times American kids have but are them told no. That sucks. Also, as we all know, Halloween was originally the Celtic Samhain (soh-wen in Irish, Sah-ven in Scottish). It was just that the Americans perfected it. It was actually a way for Irish immigrants to try to lessen the bigotry against them in the New World. And it worked.
And Halloween in just awesome. I prefer it over all other holidays, including Christmas. I love giving gifts, but I love dressing up more.
hi I'm also in Australia, love the decorations and the dressing up, but not into trick or treat since my car was egged by some older kids who didn't like that I had no sweets to offer them
Fall/early winter really is the best with all the holidays beginning with Halloween here, the more excuses for epic outfits and yummy treats the better I always say!
This bodice shape is glorious on you!
Thank you Rhonda!
Loved this. The mock-up already looks gorgeous. Love the Victorian edginess of your hair style and make up together with the bustle.
Thank you Marna!
You're eye makeup in this video is amazing!! 💜💜
Thank you Jacqueline!
"The stitches... were so small- so small- they looked as if they had been made by little mice!" Beatrix Potter
I think I would make the tails a little longer or leave it as is. The silk will drape nicely. Love your channel
Thank you Tiana!