This was my last ZX Spectrum 128K, spanish version from Investronica, together with numeric keypad and +D disk interface. Directly from AY chip i put ACB stereo output to my stereo boombox, i used SQ Tracker and Sample Tracker 3 :-)
Great video, That new keyboard looks great. BTW it's easier to remove the Spacebar rod from the membrane side, once the membrane is removed. Also when fitting the backplane, you shouldn't have the face resting on the bench. The left and right of the keyboard face should be raised so the keys are dangling free in between, if that makes sense.
@@HappyLittleDiodes NP, it was more for your viewers. Thanks for the videos. I'm getting my (spare for parts) ZX Spectrums back in shape with your help.
The fact that it's basically a plus with go faster stripes probably doesn't do its desirability any harm, but the collectability is mostly to do with the fact that it's the last of the Sinclair Spectrums
Funny, I just ordered the same PCB yesterday, intended to go with my white/grey/red russian clone of a ZX+ keyboard (while I do have a portugese style ZX48, I'm mostly interested in russian "high end" clones [Pentagon, Scorpion, ATM Turbo]) ... which has springs for plungers instead of rubber domes - pretty excited whether it will work as intended.
Nice. The membrane on the + and 128K have 3 layers instead of the normal 2 to access the additional keys. However to do this on a PCB with a simple switch you need simple logit to imitate that 3rd membrane layer.
Thanks for this video, it's very interesting, great work. I have installed several of these keyboards, they are marvellous, however the remaining touch is not very good because the microswitches are very high, eliminating the spring effect of the membrane. This can be solved by putting a cardboard or plastic template with holes for each microswitch. With thickness similar of the microswitches between the membrane and the PCB, the sensitivity and tact is greatly improved.
Awesome video thanks for putting it together. I am planning to do this mod on mine. You mentioned you changed the bubble mat, can you tell me where you managed to source one? thanks!
To anyone else who installed this kit, is it just me, or is the keypress effort really high and inconsistent? I played around with the fastener torques and got some improvement in consistency. The enter key went from painfully unusable anywhere away from the top right corner, to somewhat tolerable along the entire right hand side. I'm guessing some of this is down to the aging bubble mat? It also doesn't help that the keyboard never had stabilizers on the Enter and Caps Shift keys.
Yep, removing the coil from the toroid will have decreased it's inductance. May cause problems as far as interference is concerned but otherwise, no biggie. Would love a toastrack one day, but will have to live with my heavily modded Grey +2 with toastrack rom, stereo sound, rewired joy ports etc, etc. 😛
@@retrorobbins It's a bit of a fiddly job, but when I did the video out mod I fitted three phono outs in where the modulator out was (by drilling the shielding case to accept sockets) and carefully sculpted the case plastic so it looks like it was original. Did the stereo mod and hooked it all up, balancing the levels with variable resistors and it really makes a huge difference. Some games even work in surround for some reason, which is fun.
Superglue is probably the worst adhesive you could have used to glue that onto a PCB. Its too brittle for something so weighty and you need something more flexible to act as a shock absorber.
The toroid isnt really important and in fact, it's often not fitted at all! I think there were some countries where they had to minimise emissions from the 9V power cord, thats all. The grey +2 is the same design and doesn't have one. edit: I would probably replace that GSS branded Z80. They are known for going bad !
As you can read elsewhere in these comments, my Version 9G is missing the toroid coil. But that's also the one that's spray painted with metal paint at the inside to minimise emissions! I have a few other micros that have the inside of the case metal coated: a US ZX80 and US ZX81, Timex Sinclair 1000 and 1500, a NTSC ZX Spectrum from Chile (making use of some extra connection pads already on every issue 4 motherboard specifically for the grounding prongs!) and a Beckman Sinclair ZX Spectrum 48K+ from Sweden.
as a fan of synths, i like your music, but not on the video, maybe a little quiter ? I dont know, what your saying is really good, the music is distracting on an otherwise really interesting video.
This was my last ZX Spectrum 128K, spanish version from Investronica, together with numeric keypad and +D disk interface. Directly from AY chip i put ACB stereo output to my stereo boombox, i used SQ Tracker and Sample Tracker 3 :-)
That sounds like a serious setup!
Great video, That new keyboard looks great. BTW it's easier to remove the Spacebar rod from the membrane side, once the membrane is removed. Also when fitting the backplane, you shouldn't have the face resting on the bench. The left and right of the keyboard face should be raised so the keys are dangling free in between, if that makes sense.
Thanks for the tip!
@@HappyLittleDiodes NP, it was more for your viewers. Thanks for the videos. I'm getting my (spare for parts) ZX Spectrums back in shape with your help.
128 is the missing machine from my collection. Great video 👍🏼
Thank you
I have 4 toastracks, the Spanish one and the Version 9G lack the toroid coil (gaping hole there), while both Version 6U's do have them.
I still have mine in its box; loved my 128K
The fact that it's basically a plus with go faster stripes probably doesn't do its desirability any harm, but the collectability is mostly to do with the fact that it's the last of the Sinclair Spectrums
Funny, I just ordered the same PCB yesterday, intended to go with my white/grey/red russian clone of a ZX+ keyboard (while I do have a portugese style ZX48, I'm mostly interested in russian "high end" clones [Pentagon, Scorpion, ATM Turbo]) ... which has springs for plungers instead of rubber domes - pretty excited whether it will work as intended.
Nice. The membrane on the + and 128K have 3 layers instead of the normal 2 to access the additional keys. However to do this on a PCB with a simple switch you need simple logit to imitate that 3rd membrane layer.
Love toast racks glad to see another video from you it has been a while hasn't it
Thanks for this video, it's very interesting, great work. I have installed several of these keyboards, they are marvellous, however the remaining touch is not very good because the microswitches are very high, eliminating the spring effect of the membrane. This can be solved by putting a cardboard or plastic template with holes for each microswitch. With thickness similar of the microswitches between the membrane and the PCB, the sensitivity and tact is greatly improved.
That keyboard mod is quite intriguing, I wonder if it's been considered for the original Commodore PET 2001 with it's chiclet keyboard? 😏
That would be nice! And certainly possible given the design, instead of using ICs to multiplex there are just millions of wires, it's quite simple
Awesome video thanks for putting it together. I am planning to do this mod on mine. You mentioned you changed the bubble mat, can you tell me where you managed to source one? thanks!
I'm afraid I sourced it from the pile of case parts under my desk! Thanks for the kind comment
ok thanks!
To anyone else who installed this kit, is it just me, or is the keypress effort really high and inconsistent?
I played around with the fastener torques and got some improvement in consistency. The enter key went from painfully unusable anywhere away from the top right corner, to somewhat tolerable along the entire right hand side. I'm guessing some of this is down to the aging bubble mat? It also doesn't help that the keyboard never had stabilizers on the Enter and Caps Shift keys.
Try different bubble mats, it made a big difference for me to have a less "tired" mat
good job. i have a couple of spectrum +1,s. one of which is in poor condition been think of making a fake toastrack out of it
I have two 48+ on top of the wardrobe that were my dads.
Best take them to bits and get them running!
Yep, removing the coil from the toroid will have decreased it's inductance. May cause problems as far as interference is concerned but otherwise, no biggie. Would love a toastrack one day, but will have to live with my heavily modded Grey +2 with toastrack rom, stereo sound, rewired joy ports etc, etc. 😛
Yes would love a way to improve the sound on the grey +2 mono output stereo channels available never understood why they did that
@@retrorobbins It's a bit of a fiddly job, but when I did the video out mod I fitted three phono outs in where the modulator out was (by drilling the shielding case to accept sockets) and carefully sculpted the case plastic so it looks like it was original. Did the stereo mod and hooked it all up, balancing the levels with variable resistors and it really makes a huge difference. Some games even work in surround for some reason, which is fun.
@@retrorobbins Simple reason they left it as mono - most of them would be used with portable TV sets, which are also mono.
Superglue is probably the worst adhesive you could have used to glue that onto a PCB.
Its too brittle for something so weighty and you need something more flexible to act as a shock absorber.
@@davidfurnissUK noted!
#TeamPencilEraser - Thanks for referencing my comment :) As you said, in the end it comes down to personal preference.
That, and what you've got handy!
Where can you buy keyboard?
Link in the description
Ula+ spectra?
Ah yes of course there is only one supply to those RAM chips. Great music too.
The toroid isnt really important and in fact, it's often not fitted at all! I think there were some countries where they had to minimise emissions from the 9V power cord, thats all. The grey +2 is the same design and doesn't have one.
edit: I would probably replace that GSS branded Z80. They are known for going bad !
As you can read elsewhere in these comments, my Version 9G is missing the toroid coil. But that's also the one that's spray painted with metal paint at the inside to minimise emissions!
I have a few other micros that have the inside of the case metal coated: a US ZX80 and US ZX81, Timex Sinclair 1000 and 1500, a NTSC ZX Spectrum from Chile (making use of some extra connection pads already on every issue 4 motherboard specifically for the grounding prongs!) and a Beckman Sinclair ZX Spectrum 48K+ from Sweden.
as a fan of synths, i like your music, but not on the video, maybe a little quiter ? I dont know, what your saying is really good, the music is distracting on an otherwise really interesting video.
Hiya! Thanks, and yes the more recent videos have quieter music :) I noticed it too
@@HappyLittleDiodes cheers, i'm enjoying your videos, learning alot. thanks for all the content and keeping the spectrums alive :)