I can't thank You enough for the tape deck latch fix - I was ready to call my 128K +2 a "DivIDE only" machine, because of deck failure which I considered to be a "game over" problem. Now I know better - thanks to Your howto ;-)
Thanks, I had the issue with the pause mechanism and indeed the white plastic bit was grinding. New belts, greased and your fix means I can now load games again without failing all the time.
The +2A I grew up with the tape desk the buttons just all stopped, my dads solution was rip out the keys and solder a connection to the mainboard and drill a small hole in back of case and put the new soldered connection to a headphone input so I could use a external tape deck. How he did that around 1991 with no internet beats me, he did like electronics though and was always fixing things for friends as we didn't have much cash.
Hi Mark, I didn't realise you could pul the capstan flywheel thingie off the shaft, I normaly take the circlip off the other side and pull the shaft out with the capstan attached, might give this way a go next time, not sure if you can buy the circlips to replace them as they can get damaged, I also had to remove the other white wheel last time on a 2A mechanism, it was running slow and clicking, the eccentric cam under the white wheel needed greasing it had dried up, worked nicely afterwards though :-)
In addition to cleaning the playback head, you should demagnetize it with a head demagnetizer. With use, they become magnetized and lose playback quality.
This can be true, but it takes a really heavy amount of payback to magnetise a play head. Back in the 90’s I worked in a duplication factory and maintained the tape duplication machines and disk drive autoloaders. In both tape and disk you’d usually find that the actual head would be showing visual signs of long before accumulated magnetic bias affected the signal to noise ratio. We had to test regularly. It’s good practice though I suppose. You can get a degaussing tool for cheap… just don’t turn it on near your tapes!
Nice! FWVLIW: I wouldn't suggest not fixing one of these properly but a mod I rather like is you have a +2 with a completely ronnied tape deck is the cut that end off the case entirely! Then glue the far end on to the hole left by cutting the tape deck off. If properly measured and done with care it will look like it was meant to be like that. A buck regulator as there's no room for the heat sink, a suitable storage device, and away you go!
The metal pin which the pinch roller rides against is called the capstan, I think you were calling it a spindle. The spindles are the black cogs which fit into the sprockets in the cassette reels when you put a tape in.
Nice video as always, one little tip that I think you should mention - when you put screws in you turn half a turn backwards to align the thread before screwing in. You clearly do this in the video and this is a sign of a proper engineer at work in my opinion but I'm not sure everyone knows this tip!
I have mentioned it in a few videos! I have to be careful not to annoy the viewership though haha. I do see some people cutting a new thread and it makes me wince.
nice vid,, lesson of the day .. i always though that pause thing was meant to push against the flywheel .. ohh AV107 that is the 70mm one .. i use AV102 for the specie (65mm) and AV107 for the amstrad cpc..
I was always told to avoid IPA on rubber parts. Was that just me? Anyway, thanks for this video. I've never tested the tape deck on my +2 -- I should probably do that some day. :)
Yes, really it should mostly be avoided but occasionally a quick wipe with IPA on very old rubber rollers will bring the grip back. A safer option is window cleaner.
@@MarkFixesStuff Any good at fixing 80s hifis? At some point quite like mine serviced. Tape deck no longer works, but the rest is still going... Probably needs capping and such... Make an interesting sponsored video maybe. Although just been hit for new speccys yesterday.
Not really sure if it will pass testing yet, but there’s a second video in the works where we’ll do the video fixes and balance the AY audio with the beeper sound (it’s really unbalanced). We’ll decide on that video. :)
I tried a switch mode regulator on a Ql and the rf output went crazy. Dont know if the monitor output would be ok. Or if the rf would be ok on a plus 2. Needless to say i put the original regular back on its heatsink but with heatsink paste, it didnt have any.
A thimble over the thumb pushing on the spindle could be something to try next time - then you should be able to carry on pushing the flywheel with your fingers while looking at that side and maybe not have to back it off a bit afterwards? Bonus: you get to confuse people by having sewing equipment alongside electronics repair tools.
Man, you don't need to pull the flywheel like that, remove the washer on the spindle from the casette side and you will avoid sepparating the spindle from the flywheel.
Nice work thanks for the video i never realised cpc did belts,the last belts i got for my spectrum were from retrocomputershack .One thing to avoid is the ebay seller selling belt packs under the linna name with a few extras for cleaning and lubricating they are the same quality as the Chinese sets and are useless with tons of wow and flutter .
I can't thank You enough for the tape deck latch fix - I was ready to call my 128K +2 a "DivIDE only" machine, because of deck failure which I considered to be a "game over" problem. Now I know better - thanks to Your howto ;-)
I like it when you give us your little tip.
Thanks, I had the issue with the pause mechanism and indeed the white plastic bit was grinding. New belts, greased and your fix means I can now load games again without failing all the time.
What a great find. I've never seen that pause latch fault before.
Got to love seeing our friend the Speccy coming back from the dead! - Sir Clive bless' you!
Cool video my friend ;)
Lovely stuff! Thanks for watching!
The +2A I grew up with the tape desk the buttons just all stopped, my dads solution was rip out the keys and solder a connection to the mainboard and drill a small hole in back of case and put the new soldered connection to a headphone input so I could use a external tape deck. How he did that around 1991 with no internet beats me, he did like electronics though and was always fixing things for friends as we didn't have much cash.
I had exactly the same fault with the pause latch on a +2a. Also zip zap is a classic! Great vid!
Thanks! 👍
ZIP ZAP!!! my 1st speccy game with mindeout, and space raiders, on my 48k speccy, brilliant xmas that was
Hi Mark, I didn't realise you could pul the capstan flywheel thingie off the shaft, I normaly take the circlip off the other side and pull the shaft out with the capstan attached, might give this way a go next time, not sure if you can buy the circlips to replace them as they can get damaged, I also had to remove the other white wheel last time on a 2A mechanism, it was running slow and clicking, the eccentric cam under the white wheel needed greasing it had dried up, worked nicely afterwards though :-)
thanks
Wonderful, perfect video explaining it perfectly well. I don't have that model, but it couldn't be better.
I’ve emulated the +3 but it makes my GPU get very hot.
In addition to cleaning the playback head, you should demagnetize it with a head demagnetizer. With use, they become magnetized and lose playback quality.
This can be true, but it takes a really heavy amount of payback to magnetise a play head. Back in the 90’s I worked in a duplication factory and maintained the tape duplication machines and disk drive autoloaders. In both tape and disk you’d usually find that the actual head would be showing visual signs of long before accumulated magnetic bias affected the signal to noise ratio. We had to test regularly. It’s good practice though I suppose. You can get a degaussing tool for cheap… just don’t turn it on near your tapes!
This probably happened to mine, unfortunetly I didn't find a fix in the 90's
Another great success. Oh and Zip Zap was the first Spectrum game I ever bought. 👏
Cheers Bobbus.
Zip Zap seems a bit Cr&p?
@@MarkFixesStuff yeah it's a bit naff. I hadn't read the review on Crash before I bought it though. 🤷♂️
Nice!
FWVLIW: I wouldn't suggest not fixing one of these properly but a mod I rather like is you have a +2 with a completely ronnied tape deck is the cut that end off the case entirely! Then glue the far end on to the hole left by cutting the tape deck off. If properly measured and done with care it will look like it was meant to be like that. A buck regulator as there's no room for the heat sink, a suitable storage device, and away you go!
What buck regulator are you using? This one seems a bit naff and the machine sometimes resets. I'll cover it in part 2 but need an option.
Great fix mark, something I need to do myself when I actually get 5 minutes.
I know that feeling. Time flies.
The metal pin which the pinch roller rides against is called the capstan, I think you were calling it a spindle. The spindles are the black cogs which fit into the sprockets in the cassette reels when you put a tape in.
Nice video as always, one little tip that I think you should mention - when you put screws in you turn half a turn backwards to align the thread before screwing in. You clearly do this in the video and this is a sign of a proper engineer at work in my opinion but I'm not sure everyone knows this tip!
I have mentioned it in a few videos! I have to be careful not to annoy the viewership though haha. I do see some people cutting a new thread and it makes me wince.
Awesome video as always! I have never seen one of these. Pretty cool design. like a console/computer hybrid.
nice vid,, lesson of the day .. i always though that pause thing was meant to push against the flywheel .. ohh AV107 that is the 70mm one .. i use AV102 for the specie (65mm) and AV107 for the amstrad cpc..
Mark II Fixes Stuff.
GRIP THAT SPIGOT !!! Ooof!
I was always told to avoid IPA on rubber parts. Was that just me? Anyway, thanks for this video. I've never tested the tape deck on my +2 -- I should probably do that some day. :)
Yes, really it should mostly be avoided but occasionally a quick wipe with IPA on very old rubber rollers will bring the grip back. A safer option is window cleaner.
Another great Retro Mark’s Cave, Trash to Treasure...
My format is actually called Retro Resurrection, but this isn't bad enough for one of those!
@@MarkFixesStuff Any good at fixing 80s hifis? At some point quite like mine serviced. Tape deck no longer works, but the rest is still going... Probably needs capping and such... Make an interesting sponsored video maybe. Although just been hit for new speccys yesterday.
A very useful tip Mark. Is this problem specific to the 128K Spectrum Datacorder?
In my experience it’s quite common on the grey +2
What did you end up doing with the buck regulator? I assume it didn't end it's days hanging out the back.
Not really sure if it will pass testing yet, but there’s a second video in the works where we’ll do the video fixes and balance the AY audio with the beeper sound (it’s really unbalanced). We’ll decide on that video. :)
Liking the dance of success
The Jig of Joy!!
You probably have one but if not I recommend the Divmmc. So much better for loading games.
I have four or five different models of them. I just like repairing / building stuff!
Can you please try the rf output with that buck convertor fitted?
Sorry. This machine was destroyed in the fire.
A question: What do you think about a drop of oil instead just grease?. Wouldn't it be good?
The grease is plastic safe. If you use oil you must ensure it's not mineral based or it will eat the plastics!
Always love these vids
Thanks geezer!
Ahh the speccy. Do you know if there is a way to hook up any Dial-up modem to the speccy with some sort of conversion from the edge connector to DB25?
Umm. Not as such but there was this...
worldofspectrum.org/hardware/feat24.html
I first thought you had a really big crack in your bottom, but now I can just see it's very hairy...
-Dx
Oh Dee... lol 😂
So the regulator will hang out????
I don’t really trust it yet, but there will be another video with audio fixes etc and we will decide!
I tried a switch mode regulator on a Ql and the rf output went crazy. Dont know if the monitor output would be ok. Or if the rf would be ok on a plus 2. Needless to say i put the original regular back on its heatsink but with heatsink paste, it didnt have any.
I remember have one and a Commodore 64……..
When are you going to EAT them Gummy's Mark?
Shhhhhh... they'll hear you!
A thimble over the thumb pushing on the spindle could be something to try next time - then you should be able to carry on pushing the flywheel with your fingers while looking at that side and maybe not have to back it off a bit afterwards?
Bonus: you get to confuse people by having sewing equipment alongside electronics repair tools.
Great tip! Thank you.
Hi mark I have a 128 plus 2 with no power it’ has no heat shield same as yours in the video
Man, you don't need to pull the flywheel like that, remove the washer on the spindle from the casette side and you will avoid sepparating the spindle from the flywheel.
that buck regulator is only 1 amps the lm is 2amps
Oh yes, it's super crap as well. I need to revisit this.
my old +2 would never load hyperload games
Probably azimuth alignment
Nice work thanks for the video i never realised cpc did belts,the last belts i got for my spectrum were from retrocomputershack .One thing to avoid is the ebay seller selling belt packs under the linna name with a few extras for cleaning and lubricating they are the same quality as the Chinese sets and are useless with tons of wow and flutter .