I own the same desoldering station that clogged up on you and mine does it as well. But there is a way to clear it. First, you remove the glass tube that collects the solder. Then, with the desoldering gun heated up, you insert the poker that came with it into the opening and rest it with the handle of the poker on the table so that you can apply gentle pressure. It won't poke through yet. With a soldering iron, you heat the tube end that normally goes into the glass tube and then it just takes a few seconds to clear the blockage. I have yet to find out why it clogs up there, but likely there is a spot that is just a little too cold and the solder solidifies there. There is a number of mods that I have applied to mine. - Put in a proper voltage regulator module for the pump and the fan (they normally go through two huge resistors to reduce the transformer output voltage - Opened up the ventilation holes in the back, put a new fan with a proper grill in there instead (much quieter operation now) - Put a relay in that is controlled by the trigger and in turn controls the vacuum pump - that way the inrush current of the vacuum pump doesn't go through the trigger switch - Not sure if this is just on mine, but despite being a two-pole mains switch, only one wire was actually switched. Here in Germany, our plugs go in both ways, so you never know what's live and what's neutral - so I went ahead and switched the second wire as well. I know this is a problem you don't have in the UK.
Instead of clipping the leads you can use coastal erosion, but it takes a lot longer to complete a project. That's why I moved to the Isle of Wight, it seems to happen much faster here.
When I got into this stuff I very quickly found out that it's not soldering but desoldering that is the real art. Great video to showcase the various techniques of it.
Depends on what you are soldering or desoldering and with what equipment. I find desoldering easy. Same station as he got new. High pin count smd is where it gets really interesting and hot air rework. This stuff really should not be a problem with the correct equipment. Find something to practice on and pay attention to how the solder reacts. Don't force things and be patient.
@@bzuidgeest I agree on the finer SMD stuff. But some of the most problematic things I encountered were throughhole components on comparably modern boards with big groundplanes inside and unleaded solder. Anyway, the mileage may vary, I was mostly looking at it from a beginners standpoint learning about soldering and desoldering at the same time and figuring out that the latter was not trivial in comparison. Never needed to try multiple techniques to put a simple throughhole cap in. Out tho, hm.
Hiya Keith! No I don't! The reason is that the flux would burn off before the old solder melts. Flux is really good for cleaning joints and allowing new solder to flow but not getting old solder flowing. That's why I sometimes add new solder. That helps the older solder to flow and that is key. Flux burns off and clears any oxidants on the surface of a board. If you add it to the top of an old solder joint you're just cleaning the tops of something you'll be removing. An exception to this is SMD soldering where you use a gooey flux to "mop off" small amounts of solder. My answer to you is to clean the work joint with IPA, try to melt the joint and if no joy, hit it with some fresh solder to get it going.
Absolutely love these fix videos, keep up the good work dude! About to finally force myself to learn CRT repair (otherwise I will never have all of my arcades up and running at once).
Nice to see you back mate. Glad you where able to sort it that bad cap job out. Looking forward to you finishing the job and getting her up and running again.
What an amazingly educational value your video has, well done! This was my 1st computer! I was so sad when it died when I plugged in the printer to the back port when it was on. I was 13 at the time and my father arranged for it to be changed for a Toshiba MSX who could handl a lot more of my abuse.
do appreciate the explanation of the techniques as you go. Have always struggled with solder wick but now think I know where am going wrong (Do love my Duratool desoldering station though - and not just because of the name ;))
Mark's back, hoorah! Always nice to see a little soldering footage so that I can be reminded how it should be done. I can see that I am a little heavy on the solder application and I think I 'double dab' a but too often. Leaded solder is the only way to go. Looking forward to part 2. 😊
Around 13:40. Before i was fired due to a reorganisation, i soldered on PCB's for military communication systems. Cutting the legs after soldering was allowed, but not cutting in the solder.
Just a personal comment... Due to the smoke adhering to the board, I would have given the whole board a clean with spray cleaning alcohol or similar prior to doing any work.. Nice to go back in time though 😊
I bought one when they came out in 1986. Bright red box from WH Smiths. Not that many 128K games came out for it. Maybe more appeared for the later Amstrad models. That heatsink could get stupidly hot! Got an Opus Discovery 3.5" drive to go with it. 😁👍
Silicone tube added to desoldering pump is a must, I find it much easier now. Mark there are also some PCB mods you can do, one redirects audio later in the video chain for even better picture. Done all the mods to my toasty and RGB is spot on now. Regarding error, I will go for it being a memory issue.
I have the same desoldering station you were gifted. Cheap, but works fine. Most annoying thing is that the post switch is on the back. One of these days I'll move it over to the front. They also left the lcd protective film on in mine. So much for quality control, but it's perfectly readable so i have not bothered taking it out. It works fine so why would i.
I have the exact same desolder station as the new one. It works great but when it arrived from Amazon it had a screw rattling around inside it that had no obvious source, which was odd and a bit worrying as it could have shorted something out if I hadn't noticed.
My duratool desolder station does the whole clogging up thing regularly but the probe tool coupled with an extra hot soldering iron to boost the temperature always seems to do the job
Something similar happened to me to the same type of desoldering station... But we managed to force the thing out of it... You might want to use some wire, heat and force to fix it 😊
Another great video Mark. Such a lovely-looking Sprectrum. I can't wait to see you get it up and running again. My friend had this model and I was jealous of the "enhanced" games. My dad kept asking what the benefits of the extra memory were and the next Christmas I ended up with a +2. Glad for the upgrade but an ugly machine and that Amstrad Joystick! 😭😆
I know it's not the answer but, would reattaching the keyboard make any difference to the problem? Just a thought. I didn't have any niggle with the soldering, but the non-cleaning of the case, is a different matter, perhaps? LOL. (Also, is the speaker missing - or does it not have one on the underneath of the board? Just wondering!).
what solder with lead !. hehe jealous i have run out......... i always use braid and manual pump. seen what a bad desolder station can do to a mini main frame board.... was not pretty. my old 48k died years ago needs a full recap new membrain and a new ALU which died when one of the audio plugs went for a strole across it one day..... very sad day ... but i did get a c64, not as good as the old speccy
Hi, hope you can help me, I'm desperately looking for a spectrum plus keyboard. I'm working on a new mobile spectrum next and need a keyboard to use with it, and am looking for a decent one to use. Do you by chance have one or know someone who does. Willing to pay for it. Also looking for the full tape system for a +2. If you can help I'd be grateful. UK based. Final product will be shown on my youtube when complete.
Hiya! I don't have any parts I'm afraid, only whole machines. You might what to try this awesome dude... www.youtube.com/@leesmithsworkshop and tell him MFS sent you. He made a full case!
my Duratool spends most of its time being blocked .. ram the temp up to max wait a couple of mins then ram the unblocking rod down it with a pumping action with the nozzle off so you can use the thickest one as it has more oomph. **caution** it gets hotter than the sun
Good to see you back up and running after the hack from the Tesla idiot. I was emailing Neil to let him know your had been hacked Keep up the good work!
I notice on the underside of the board one part has brown solder joints, as if that part has been de-soldered, and a replacement part put on, using loads of flux. Is THAT the rom chip?
Hi! I replaced the membrane on my ZX Spectrum 128k+ "Toastrack" but it doesn't work, just the start screen. Can you please tell me what's wrong? Thank you
Folks should really heatsoak these boards with hot air before trying to recap. Old boards have a ton of thermal mass, thick traces, and zero thermal relief. A bit of patience to make sure the board and traces are already warm and the iron isn't constantly fighting thermal dissipation goes a long way, even on SMD stuff. Clearly went fine for you, with the right iron set up for the job and plenty of flux, but most people just go at it with a £30 non-temp-controlled cheapo iron that has about 30W of output, and tend to ruin their boards.
It went fine for him because you are talking nonsense. There is no reason to heat the board. Proper equipment will get the job done in minutes. It's hardly a challenge.
No becuase Definitely they worked on the bottom too, but I think they had the "screwdriver" solder iron type and it was a disaster for the temperature. As a resort they tried to patch onto the top of joints that went to the ground plane. Not much damage though!
Around 13:40. Before i was fired due to a reorganisation, i soldered on PCB's for military communication systems. Cutting the legs after soldering was allowed, but not cutting in the solder.
![[MV] A leap of faith...ความเชื่อใจครั้งสุดท้าย (From "Petrichor the series")](http://i.ytimg.com/vi/U1piZH2CNXA/mqdefault.jpg)
Seriously, is Damien the most generous supporter or what?
I’ve got that same gun and it’s great.
It feels so good to have your support, Mark! ❤
Yes, Mark. You would never betray us. We are all you need. For all eternity! Mwahahahahaahhahahahahh
I own the same desoldering station that clogged up on you and mine does it as well. But there is a way to clear it.
First, you remove the glass tube that collects the solder. Then, with the desoldering gun heated up, you insert the poker that came with it into the opening and rest it with the handle of the poker on the table so that you can apply gentle pressure. It won't poke through yet. With a soldering iron, you heat the tube end that normally goes into the glass tube and then it just takes a few seconds to clear the blockage.
I have yet to find out why it clogs up there, but likely there is a spot that is just a little too cold and the solder solidifies there.
There is a number of mods that I have applied to mine.
- Put in a proper voltage regulator module for the pump and the fan (they normally go through two huge resistors to reduce the transformer output voltage
- Opened up the ventilation holes in the back, put a new fan with a proper grill in there instead (much quieter operation now)
- Put a relay in that is controlled by the trigger and in turn controls the vacuum pump - that way the inrush current of the vacuum pump doesn't go through the trigger switch
- Not sure if this is just on mine, but despite being a two-pole mains switch, only one wire was actually switched. Here in Germany, our plugs go in both ways, so you never know what's live and what's neutral - so I went ahead and switched the second wire as well. I know this is a problem you don't have in the UK.
Instead of clipping the leads you can use coastal erosion, but it takes a lot longer to complete a project. That's why I moved to the Isle of Wight, it seems to happen much faster here.
Coastal erosion isn't part of MIL-SPEC. Sorry.
Get out.
When I got into this stuff I very quickly found out that it's not soldering but desoldering that is the real art. Great video to showcase the various techniques of it.
Depends on what you are soldering or desoldering and with what equipment. I find desoldering easy. Same station as he got new.
High pin count smd is where it gets really interesting and hot air rework.
This stuff really should not be a problem with the correct equipment. Find something to practice on and pay attention to how the solder reacts. Don't force things and be patient.
I know you are very experienced in this stuff now Cat, so your comments mean a lot!
@@bzuidgeest I agree on the finer SMD stuff. But some of the most problematic things I encountered were throughhole components on comparably modern boards with big groundplanes inside and unleaded solder.
Anyway, the mileage may vary, I was mostly looking at it from a beginners standpoint learning about soldering and desoldering at the same time and figuring out that the latter was not trivial in comparison.
Never needed to try multiple techniques to put a simple throughhole cap in. Out tho, hm.
Such a special machine for me. Second computer I ever owned after an Acorn Electron.
Your solder work is exquisite.
Thank you Agustin!
Nice work! Glad to see your awesome videos again.
Good to see you back, Mark.
Coincidentally, I've just bought the same cap kit and jail bar fix kit too.
Been waiting ages for my next fix of MFS! And you don't disappoint! Great content as always Mark!
Thanks mate!
Nice to see you back to it Mark 👍 Hope all is ok.
Great video Mark. I like seeing the desoldering techniques that I struggle with. Please can I ask do you apply flux before you desolder?
Hiya Keith!
No I don't! The reason is that the flux would burn off before the old solder melts. Flux is really good for cleaning joints and allowing new solder to flow but not getting old solder flowing. That's why I sometimes add new solder. That helps the older solder to flow and that is key.
Flux burns off and clears any oxidants on the surface of a board. If you add it to the top of an old solder joint you're just cleaning the tops of something you'll be removing. An exception to this is SMD soldering where you use a gooey flux to "mop off" small amounts of solder.
My answer to you is to clean the work joint with IPA, try to melt the joint and if no joy, hit it with some fresh solder to get it going.
Where you been matey, hiding in a Bush?
Look forward to seeing the speccy brought back to life.
All my stuff was hacked mate!
@@MarkFixesStuff sorry to hear mate, hope you and yours are all well.
Them SS-02 solder suckers are a good bit of kit!!
Enjoyable video, as always. Looking forward to part 2.
"Luxury Desoldering Underway" at 11:50 immediately made me think of Hyacinth Bucket ("It's Bouquet!") from Keeping Up Appearances.
Absolutely love these fix videos, keep up the good work dude! About to finally force myself to learn CRT repair (otherwise I will never have all of my arcades up and running at once).
Same here. I have a 29” Trinitron that desperately needs work.
Glad to see you back Mark, and am looking forward to Part 2!
Nice to see you back mate. Glad you where able to sort it that bad cap job out. Looking forward to you finishing the job and getting her up and running again.
What an amazingly educational value your video has, well done!
This was my 1st computer! I was so sad when it died when I plugged in the printer to the back port when it was on. I was 13 at the time and my father arranged for it to be changed for a Toshiba MSX who could handl a lot more of my abuse.
do appreciate the explanation of the techniques as you go. Have always struggled with solder wick but now think I know where am going wrong
(Do love my Duratool desoldering station though - and not just because of the name ;))
YES! I love fixit videos! Well done on those caps, looks gorgeous! Can't wait for part 2 to see you get this amazing computer running again
Mark's back, hoorah! Always nice to see a little soldering footage so that I can be reminded how it should be done. I can see that I am a little heavy on the solder application and I think I 'double dab' a but too often. Leaded solder is the only way to go. Looking forward to part 2. 😊
Good stuff re: soldering and desoldering. Looking forward to Part 2.
Around 13:40. Before i was fired due to a reorganisation, i soldered on PCB's for military communication systems. Cutting the legs after soldering was allowed, but not cutting in the solder.
You know it's a good day when Mark posts a new video.
Just a personal comment... Due to the smoke adhering to the board, I would have given the whole board a clean with spray cleaning alcohol or similar prior to doing any work.. Nice to go back in time though 😊
So happy to see a new MFS upload, can't wait for part 2, (and part 3 if it comes to that) 👍
I bought one when they came out in 1986. Bright red box from WH Smiths. Not that many 128K games came out for it. Maybe more appeared for the later Amstrad models. That heatsink could get stupidly hot! Got an Opus Discovery 3.5" drive to go with it. 😁👍
Excellent work mate!hope you can fix that poor speccy mate !!hope you and fam are well and healthy!
Silicone tube added to desoldering pump is a must, I find it much easier now. Mark there are also some PCB mods you can do, one redirects audio later in the video chain for even better picture. Done all the mods to my toasty and RGB is spot on now.
Regarding error, I will go for it being a memory issue.
Good work, hope you can fix it for the person it means something to.
I have the same desoldering station you were gifted. Cheap, but works fine. Most annoying thing is that the post switch is on the back. One of these days I'll move it over to the front.
They also left the lcd protective film on in mine. So much for quality control, but it's perfectly readable so i have not bothered taking it out. It works fine so why would i.
The crinkly stuff isn't the mask, it's the tin underneath. All the copper traces were coated with tin before applying the mask.
Yeah, I tried to say that but it came out wrong hahah
@@MarkFixesStuff yes, That is what I though, 😉😉😜
I have the exact same desolder station as the new one. It works great but when it arrived from Amazon it had a screw rattling around inside it that had no obvious source, which was odd and a bit worrying as it could have shorted something out if I hadn't noticed.
My duratool desolder station does the whole clogging up thing regularly but the probe tool coupled with an extra hot soldering iron to boost the temperature always seems to do the job
Something similar happened to me to the same type of desoldering station... But we managed to force the thing out of it... You might want to use some wire, heat and force to fix it 😊
Another great video Mark. Such a lovely-looking Sprectrum. I can't wait to see you get it up and running again. My friend had this model and I was jealous of the "enhanced" games. My dad kept asking what the benefits of the extra memory were and the next Christmas I ended up with a +2. Glad for the upgrade but an ugly machine and that Amstrad Joystick! 😭😆
I know it's not the answer but, would reattaching the keyboard make any difference to the problem? Just a thought. I didn't have any niggle with the soldering, but the non-cleaning of the case, is a different matter, perhaps? LOL. (Also, is the speaker missing - or does it not have one on the underneath of the board? Just wondering!).
Nice Video, Gearing up to get mine dune. 😉
what solder with lead !. hehe jealous i have run out......... i always use braid and manual pump. seen what a bad desolder station can do to a mini main frame board.... was not pretty. my old 48k died years ago needs a full recap new membrain and a new ALU which died when one of the audio plugs went for a strole across it one day..... very sad day ... but i did get a c64, not as good as the old speccy
Let's hope the ULA is not dead...
It's deffo OK!
Hi, hope you can help me, I'm desperately looking for a spectrum plus keyboard. I'm working on a new mobile spectrum next and need a keyboard to use with it, and am looking for a decent one to use. Do you by chance have one or know someone who does. Willing to pay for it. Also looking for the full tape system for a +2. If you can help I'd be grateful. UK based. Final product will be shown on my youtube when complete.
Hiya! I don't have any parts I'm afraid, only whole machines. You might what to try this awesome dude... www.youtube.com/@leesmithsworkshop and tell him MFS sent you. He made a full case!
@@MarkFixesStuff thankyou
mark the ZX Diag cart is the best ,do that it a cool and easy to Build as well .
It's the next public video Wayne mate!
1:09 _All_ machines were working before, at some time in their life 😁
love a Toastrack
my Duratool spends most of its time being blocked .. ram the temp up to max wait a couple of mins then ram the unblocking rod down it with a pumping action with the nozzle off so you can use the thickest one as it has more oomph. **caution** it gets hotter than the sun
I highly recommend the SS-02 solder sucker from this video. It's the best mechanical one I've ever used.
Glad to see you back, Elon 🙂
Horizontal bars is a bit of an unusual one!
yeah, vertical would suggest memory. This could be a problem with the ROM chip
@@stephenpalmer9375 My gut feel is ROM. Because I need to make a video it's REALLY HARD to not start playing about with the machine off camera hahah!
Good to see you back up and running after the hack from the Tesla idiot.
I was emailing Neil to let him know your had been hacked
Keep up the good work!
I notice on the underside of the board one part has brown solder joints, as if that part has been de-soldered, and a replacement part put on, using loads of flux. Is THAT the rom chip?
Definately use Bens Diag Board. It makes life so much easier.
Why is there such a comically huge inductor?
Size matters (baby) ;)
@@MarkFixesStuff Not if it's got a hole. You'd want it nice and tight ;)
Hi!
I replaced the membrane on my ZX Spectrum 128k+ "Toastrack" but it doesn't work, just the start screen. Can you please tell me what's wrong? Thank you
The collar screws might be too loose or too tight.
Folks should really heatsoak these boards with hot air before trying to recap. Old boards have a ton of thermal mass, thick traces, and zero thermal relief. A bit of patience to make sure the board and traces are already warm and the iron isn't constantly fighting thermal dissipation goes a long way, even on SMD stuff. Clearly went fine for you, with the right iron set up for the job and plenty of flux, but most people just go at it with a £30 non-temp-controlled cheapo iron that has about 30W of output, and tend to ruin their boards.
It went fine for him because you are talking nonsense. There is no reason to heat the board. Proper equipment will get the job done in minutes. It's hardly a challenge.
To me it looks like they tried to recap the board without taking it out. Soldering everything in from the top.
Lazy and bad.
No becuase Definitely they worked on the bottom too, but I think they had the "screwdriver" solder iron type and it was a disaster for the temperature. As a resort they tried to patch onto the top of joints that went to the ground plane.
Not much damage though!
Hang on... where's Elon?!
Off shilling crypto I guess??
14:09 That made me cringe...
Clipper-de-doo-dah?
Around 13:40. Before i was fired due to a reorganisation, i soldered on PCB's for military communication systems. Cutting the legs after soldering was allowed, but not cutting in the solder.