First Start Of My Abandoned 800-Horsepower Cobra Mustang After Sitting For 20 Years!
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- เผยแพร่เมื่อ 12 ม.ค. 2024
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In this video, I start my 800-Horsepower Cobra Mustang after sitting for 20 years! Unfortunately, we have some issues that I need help with.
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i flat told u in the last video that used motor had piston wash .... do you even know what that means?????
I run the same stp oil in my daily s10 and my nitrous truck ran it for years I still run conventional stp
Look up beefcake racing that’s the guy that built the car I’m sure
Alex u got to use grape and strawberry on your pb&j
I’m josh lol 😂. Great content bro love the channel
This show started as something cool, and has evolved into something special. I get the feeling that many of us watching this show, even though we have never met, many of us would probably become friends, and we help fix each others vehicles. Thank you to Alex and all of the crew that makes this possible.
He should have his own forum so his fans can talk shop among one another. He’ll maybe even help each other on projects when needed if local.
@@danielluedecke9622 that's a very good ideia 😀
I'd make my way over to his shop in a heartbeat if he was working on anything that would help me get to know my M276.
I'll be the biggest fan you'll ever lose sincerely yours Stan. Ps we should be together too ❤️
Hi Alex, I have experience with the Speed Pro stand alone box that your car has. I actually installed several of them on Mustangs back in the day. I can probably help you get it working . Reach out if you need assistance.
As a 03-04 cobra owner, You need to ditch all the aftermarket piggyback junk, that was a band-aid of the era for people not having proper cal software and large enough MAFs. There's no reason not to run just a stock PCM for this build and get a tuning suite for it (SCT, HP tuners etc)... The pic of the passenger side fenderwell shows the MAF connector is still in place, so whoever modded it was smart enough to keep the factory wiring harness in-tact (in the engine bay at least).
I'd start by fixing the passenger footwell wiring mods, throw the rotted aftermarket piggyback junk in the trash, and get a tuning suite. If you really want a stand-alone they make megasquirt plug and plays for that car, you could keep it speed density if you wish but there's really no reason not to run a MAF setup at this point, it's well sorted system and it's just not necessary to run speed density on these cars unless you're going big power (like north of 1k to the wheels).
Just to let you know, the Gauge cluster is what holds the pats key codes. You need to erase all keys (all keys lost) and reprogram them. FORSCAN or your Autel tool should allow you to do it. It's frustrating as hell to deal with the 10min security protocols, one incorrect step and it will boot you out and have to start all over again. Just dealt with this on a base model 97 F150 work truck a customer wanted to upgrade to a cluster with a tachometer out of a Lariat model. And to make matters worse he only had one key. Long story short took 4 attempts, but finally was able to get it programmed and running. You need to have 2 pats keys that are different from each other, a cloned key off the master will not program it. But from what I saw your system is registering 2 keys. Good luck!
Exactly this. Ford PATS requires 2 unique keys to reprogram. However, if you have 1 you can clear the PATS module in the cluster using Forscan. FTM has a great video on it Alex!!! Also, something to note is the ECM, PATS module (on cluster), and keyring thing around the ignition all need to be from same car. PATS does not send PWM to fuel injectors otherwise. Moreover, I would assume you’re having the issue because of the aftermarket wiring. Like another commenter said go back to the basics. There is a guy called Bluauto parts in CLT NC. He parts these things out and may be able to help you out. Lastly, I will say it looks like you have some sort of fob on the key ring. I had issues with my PATS when I had my apartment key fob too close to my PATS key. I hd to take off the apartment key fob and it is no issue now. Also like another commenter said, you can remove the chip (look on top there is an obvious place for it) and put it on that ignition PATS module, and then try. Also, check all your grounds since i t looks bad by the ecm.
Can't you disable with Forscan?
You know it’s a great day when you have Legit Street Cars content 👊👊👊
got that right
Unless it's about a College Girl Ford Crapstain,
Saturday Ritual lol
Well its Saturday morning
@@nielgregory108mopar guy eh
If I remember correctly. Turn the key to crank then leave it in the run position for at least 10 mins or until the theft light goes out. turn it off and back to run 2 more times letting it sit 10+ mins each time. Should take about 30 mins to reprogram. Good luck dude!
Yup that’s the way to do it without a scanner
Hey Alex, I’m not much for commenting on these but the original Forgeline wheels you’re planning to replace are very rare, worth quite a bit, and are very high quality lightweight period correct wheel. Would love to see them refinished and reinstalled on this awesome car.
You also may check PN’s, but I believe along with Terminator cams you also may have Terminator “C” heads which IIRC are a bit of an upgrade, especially for boosted cars.
Cheers from NM, thanks for the never ending quality content. Best automotive channel on YT right now IMO and it’s not even close.
My names josh and I gotta say this has became one of my new fav channels! U fix stuff and do it correctly without just throwing money at it I dig it and you’re a great mechanic!
I was really disappointed to see what had happened to this historic cobra but am so glad someone rose to the challenge of getting it running again. Hoping one day it can become the fastest cobra once again.
And also replace automatic transmission with a manual transmission on the Cobra & also Supercharge the Cobra
Yeah why on earth would there be a supercharger on a Cobra?!?! It's sacrilegious
@@chesspiece81 stocks for suckers.
@goosegarage78 I agree but I was being sarcastic because Ford put a supercharger on the Cobra 2 years later.
Great video as always Alex. So much enjoyed this.
Color orings usually mean the temp and composition properties.
I. E. Green are for A/C systems. Normal rubber rings would disintegrate
black for nitrile, brown for fluorocarbon, red for Neoprene, rust (hard to tell brown for rust) for Silicone, blue for fluorosilicone, and purple for EP
Great info!
Damn, beat me to it 😁 Though I think black is EPDM and brown is Nitrile/Buna-N?
@@stevebryson3702 Me Too
Thx my guy. Learn something new everyday 👍🏾👍🏾💪🏿💪🏿💯
@@stevebryson3702 I think some manufacturers do their own. I don't know if there is an industry standard set that must follow, but I've seen some where black is silicone too. The major manufacturers usually stay to this std, but some might veer off for a custom order or something
Just a tip when applying RTV Gasket Sealant, apply it, then let it sit for at least 10 minutes to solidify slightly that way you get a perfect seal compared to applying it to the oil pan instantly and squeezing out the soft rtv when tightening the oil pan bolts leaving a possible airpocket/bubble. I've never had any engine part leak after learning that trick.
honestly i always had problems with RTV leaking and that all went away after i started spreading the bead instead of leaving it as a bead and then squishing it. n
Eliminate all worry and no waiting, use the right stuff! Spread it on, torque it down, fill it up and go!
Quick tip. When putting the washers on the bilt in a tight spot or if you loose a bolt in a hard to get spot but you can still reach. Just put a small magnet inside a glove and you will have magnetic finger tips. 🤦I just found out about this and I graduated 03, with 4 yrs of Automotive Elective. Stay wrenching and thanks for all the videos.
As a retired ford tech. I would suggest to resort back to the basic set up of the vehicle, stock computer no add ons... and proceed from there. Big issue there is apparently electronics have been exposed to moisture and it will bring out the gremlins. Good start so far....
Totally agree, I had an Australian version after market "Chip" hard wired in that was playing up. It over boosted/fuelled a piston & blew it through the sump. Get rid of it & go back to standard!!! Mine was a Ford XR6 Turbo "Barra"
Or just go to a stand alone ECU with a new harness
@@stevebulach5198 can also do pats delete to get rid of smartsheild
@@josephandreuccetti7270right fuel tech usa ecu is the way anyway.
Ford tech eh? having worked with on a few Ferds and worked with Ferd designers on the supply side... do you ever get the feeling Ferds are designed by a secret society of sadist? I would swear they design them to cut you up, make the clamps face the wrong direction on purpose, and have fastners that require a wobble on a universal. I would also swear they order zipties precut at 45 degree angles.
You and Max make such a great team. I love your sense of humor, and Max's editing really highlights everything so well. Even though most of your vids are 40+ minutes, they don't seem long at all because of Max's editing.
I can only imagine the minutes that Max cuts out and has to go through all of Alex's retakes and bloopers!
Your channel is number one for us car heads. Very entertaining and educational. Every new episode is Joy to watch. Greetings from Sweden.
Graduated in 1994. Great videos and awesome cars I'm glad it seems to be coming together.
All the wiring is crazy, but cant wait to see it cleaned up next time.
From what I remember on my 98 and 01 Cobras the flashing theft light is bad but if it's solid then goes out it should be good. I think your issue is totally the standalone ECU not sending the signal to your fuel injectors. Something we used to do back in the late 90s early 00s was remove the chip from the key and tape it to the inside of the plastic housing right next to the key barrel. That's how we got around the PATs system to add remote start and use our own alarm system
Seen this myself but being from the eu market i was strolling to see someone comment this 😂.
Once a stand alone ECM is in play, the PATS system has no bearing on the fuel system or injector control if it is installed right. The factory ECM will disable fuel, but it is no longer in charge of those parameters. The Speed Pro box does all of that. The factory ECM is only there to run the dash. Usually the factory tachometer is disabled because the crank sensor input (used to drive the tachometer) is no longer used as an input to the factory ECM. Lots of disinformation in these comments.
@@jasondale8704 did you watch the entire video? While I agree that a newer stand alone ECU nowadays basically replaces everything the factory ECU does but it was obviously still activating the PATS system. You sit here and say "lots of incorrect information in the comments" and yet you leave no help whatsoever other than saying how something should have been connected. I had a 98 and 01 Cobras and a 98 GT. All heavily modified, tuned, with aftermarket remote start and alarm. I've directly dealt with the PATs system in all these instances and the situation we were seeing with the ignition, flashing theft light and failure to start all pointed to a functional PATs system interrupting the signal. Right now, that stand alone ECU looks completely screwed. It will probably need to be replaced or at least rebuilt by someone familiar with that ECU. Depending on if they are even in business any more I'd look into another standalone ECU. It may be easier to start from scratch than bring that back to life.
@@davidallen5783 Speed Pro became F.A.S.T. They are still in business. The factory ECU and PATS system has no control over any engine functions now. The theft light is no more meaningful than the check engine light would be. It isn’t in charge of anything. The box can likely be sent back for repair or replaced with a modern version. I used to install them on Mustangs of this generation for a living. I actually know what I’m talking about. I will say that whoever installed that one was a hack based on the wiring shown in the video.
What i love about this channel is that he doesnt hide the issues. Keeps me coming back
I had a similar problem on my 98 Mustang. For the years 99-04 of the SN95, the PATS module is built into the cluster. 96-98 has a separate module under the dash for the PATS. (at least to my understanding.) I had gotten the car not running and after some diagnosing I figured out the injectors weren't firing. Apparently the guy that had the car before me had a incompatible tune on there and it wouldn't let the handheld tuner return it to stock. After contacting support I managed to get the stock loaded back up and it fired up. Conclusion of this is that there may be a bad tune on it. I've also heard that you can have the PATS system tuned out to where it's disabled. One other thing I've heard is that a bad ground can cause it. Check the ground going to the ECM and there is also a ground right under that ECM I do believe.
I love your schedule, I used to watch Stacy every Saturday morning and I recall you mentioning you wanted to follow that cadence and you’re doing great! You’re the man, I love Saturdays and you’re a part of that!
Same! Brings back fond memories!
Stacy David is an absolute legend. Such a talented mechanic, fabricator, painter, detailer, everything automotive related. He is a major influence for me too.
Stacey is still pretty active. Occasionally we get new Gearz episodes and he has a great “Tales from a gearhead” podcast.
Out of everyone I watch on TH-cam. I really appreciate the in depth work on the engine and vehicles. Makes watching this videos that much better.
Never disappointed with a LSC video! They’re so amazing and intuitive. Alex you would make a great instructor. Great job on another Amazing video!!
I’ve been waiting for this video since u seen the car in the background of one of of you our older videos I can’t wait to see this Cobra brought back to life I remember reading that article in the magazine as a kid thankful you requested an amazing and fast car I know you’ll do it justice in returning it to its former glory!
Absolutely thrilled to see the revival of this historic cobra! It's not just about restoring a car, it's about bringing a piece of automotive history back to life. Your dedication and skill in tackling such a complex project is truly inspiring. The fact that you're aiming to make it the fastest cobra again speaks volumes about your passion and expertise. Can't wait to see it break records! Also, a huge shoutout to the community here for their insightful comments and tips - this channel is a goldmine for car enthusiasts. Keep up the amazing work! 👏🚗💨
Yeah i'm a chevy guy and still exciting for me. The late 90's were the best of everything, imo! I was in hs at the time. Used to hate these mustangs but all that bias is gone now lol the times were just too cool to still hate on anything from back then. I'd love to own one frankly, especially a mach1. they all sounded dang GOOD.
I love watching your videos man your such a funny guy and seem to make everything enjoyable while also teaching us the right way to do something keep up the good work buddy🔥
I follow a lot of you tube mechanics channels but I have to say that you are without a doubt my favorite content creator. Keep up the fantastic work and don't ever change a thing.
How can anyone NOT love this guy ?
If I knew ANYTHING about Cobras, I'd help {Honestly !}, but the only thing I know is that when Caroll Shelby put the engine in an AC Ace {British and Best ! ! ! }, in 1962, it did 0 to 100 mph and back down to 0 again in 11 seconds ! !
It had 260 hp, and could hit 140 mph !
Keep at it Alex, I know you'll get it to talk, or SING eventually ! !
Take care, and DON"T Burn your jeans !
Or Don't Fart, whilst you're burning them !
Stu xx
Props for persevering thru the challenges. Can hardly wait to see this up and running!
Can't wait to see it running in the next video. Definitely should take it to the strip and see whats the best it can do against some of your other cars!
My first car was a 1k 98 v6 mustang....the same pats issue stranded me for an entire day. I struggled so hard with it and I'm so happy to see one of my engine jedi masters struggling with the same thing. I feel ur pain man! If u need to get it started, a push start will bypass the pats system(or at least it did for my car no Warranty expressed lol)
This might be the first time I've ever commented on TH-cam and it's to let you know this is far and away my favorite car series ever. You're killing it bro. Keep it up!
Thanks Josh! Means a lot
That aftermarket ECU didn't look too terrible. I noticed the rust seems to be confined to the screws holding the PCB on and the fet heatsinks. The board itself looks like it was decently conformally coated from the factory maybe?
I'd pull it out and see what could be cleaned / renewed before declaring it completly dead. The connectors and the harness I think will be a bigger concern / job.
The fuel pump not running I think is much more likely to be relay socket / harness / main supply to relay switched side. We saw the ECU turn it on, it goes click, so don't think the PATS system is killing fuel pump. No injection pulse, I'd think would be PATS.
Brought us back to the mid-late 80s with your show today.. nice work Max with the editing.. I kept feeling the original Top Gun movie during some of the action shots. Great editing Max, seriously.. You two are a great team! I've been following Alex since long before he left his real job with the City, and man you two really do wonderful together! Thanks guys for all the hard work!
I have successfully bypassed the PATS once about 10 years ago on an 02 mustang. I can’t remember the exact ohms, but after a ton of research I ended up soldering a resistor into the ignition hot wire. Worked like a charm. If fixing the rotted ECU doesn’t work, might want to try it. It was a 30 ohm resistor I think. The computer needs to read a certain amount of resistance in the wire or else it thinks it is being hot wired.
I grad. in 87 and still own a 88 5.0 5sp LX notch I bought in 92. I have that car because of Tony Defeo. Uncle Tony's Garage. My daily is a 2011 Caprice PPV 1 of 411 Phantom Black patrols made with a small cam 216/220 and exh. and a camaro 3.27 rear. 13.3 106 all the time in 90 deg. weather. Love your cars. Have fun.
I have a 03 Lincoln engine in my F100. The PATS wasn’t happy with the swap so i threw in a P71 cop car ECU because they don’t have pats and the 4.6 ran fine after that
Hey Alex I graduated in 1989 I was an 80’s , 90’s kid but it was great muscle cars classic cars and imports were coming into light at the hat time ! What a great time ! Love the vlogs ! Love to see Peter come back you guys were such a team but I understand if there were issues !! All the best 😎👍🏻🇺🇸🦅😇🙏
I was thinking the same thing, I really felt Alex and Peter were like the dynamic duo, historically funny as well. When it comes to you tube though and solo channels which is what Alex does for the most part he does some collaboration, but it's mostly him and that causes friction cause you will always think about one day branching out on your own, because the possibility is endless, but being and creator stand point figure will never happen if your living in the shadow of someone else and that is prolly where friction comes between people in TH-cam. It serves better to part then lose a friendship over money regardless. I still can't wait to see what the future holds with Alex and LSC he has a cult following now. I wonder if he still works for Mercedes or he is doing this full time now.
I have a 2002 explorer with the PATS and i had to change the receiver on the ignition (the round piece in your picture diagram) to get mine working again. I was able to use one that i pulled from the junk yard on the same model and year. It was easy to replace and has worked flawless for the last 2 years.
Great stuff thanks. I have faith I know you'll get it running.
Alex, I don't know if you ever tried this, but I was a Diesel mechanic and when installing seals (I used to do at least 2 wheel bearing seals a day) we used a thin layer of gasket silicon (Hondabond or whatever your favorite is). It acts as a lubricant and also help fill any imperfection. Anyway, I graduated in '94 and my dream cars were the Celica GT-Four, MR2 and Eagle Talon TSI. Turbo versions, of course. Take care and keep on bringing excellent content!
No 3000GT VR4!?
@@thezfunk Yeah, we didn’t have those. We had the Dodge version (Dodge Stealth) and they weren’t as nice.
I had a 1992 Eagle Talon TSi AWD. That was a fun car. Wish I had never sold it.
I'm currently restoring a 92 JDM RHD SW20 MR2 turbo. 2.3L "5SGTE"
I used to have a '98 trans am, m6 with full slp exhaust and got my ass handed to me by a turbo talon that looked stock and a bit beat up. The 92 or so bodystyle. This was prob back in 2007 or so. Didn't bother me much because I really like those too. Def fast!
Really appreciate how you go through your builds. so helpful if you are getting an old vehicle to run again.
Ya, it's great Alex takes time to talk through everything. Longer editing hours, but really informative. Right now I edit our videos on our channel and I don't have that kind of time haha
It was STILL amazing Alex. Seriously love it.
I remember this car in the magazines! Cool piece of Mustang history for sure.
Sealant on the front crank bolt to keep oil from leaking through the keyway. If it wasn't a keyed crank, it wouldn't need it (like many modern engines)
Another nice video, thanks for the content
The factory service procedure calls for RTV along the keyway or something along those lines.
For people saying those blocks handle power. If it's a teksid vs a wap, both blocks were offered in 01. Teksid were early 01, wap were after. The teksid with sleeves, and some other work, will handle 3k+ hp. Accufab racing, and John Mihovetz still hold the stock block record, at 5.88 in the 1/4.
Is there an easy way to identify which block you have (Teksid/Wap)?
@@velocity2654 Different Part numbers. Also Teskid's have a diamond pattern style center valley. WAP is square. Both can handle over 1000whp. The Teskid is closer to 1500whp+.
@@velocity2654 the valley is the main giveaway. the old engine he took out is a WAP block. the new engine is a teksid block, based on the main bearing caps in the last video.
Holy crap
The key in ignition is the switch that reads the key in the ignition that turns on the dinger. You might pull the column shrouds off and check that antenna that reads the key. Usually it’ll set a pats code if it flashes that light fast like it’s doing. You might try another key if you have one, or get a lock smith out and program two new keys to it. It’s definitelya pats issue though, early ford with pats would let them crank over but not fire the injector
Really enjoyed the video thanks Alex look forward to next time. Good luck buddy 👍
so glad your working on this cobra she definetly deserves to live again. always look forward to your videos every saturday alex! keep up the great work. man i'm old 1983! PB and fluff yes i'm from mass. bummer you couldn't get it running but i know you will with the help from some ford people. i have faith in you alex.
I love so many cars from this era and feel they should be saved. I could see me being one of the guys that buys projects because they need saving but leave them in the yard because not having the time or money to save them. Started making videos on our channel to try and scatch that itch!
I've been waiting for this series. I've had 2 Cobras. One I bought in the military and the other I bought when I worked for GM. Health issues have temporarily taken away my ability to work on cool cars so I make up for it by getting on here and watching you and Lee and Derek (you guys all know what pages I'm talking about) build the cars I wish I could. Keep it up Alex! You're doing a helluva job! 🙂
Just like you would if using the stock pcm for an LS swap. If you know a tuner, you can have them turn off the pats switch in the pcm so that it stops looking for the signal from the gem module and just starts without receiving that signal.
I’m so appreciative of the longer format videos
Now I really feel old . You graduated in 2006 , I graduated in 1988!!
I graduated in 84 and that was 2 yrs late
Class of 88 also!!
I'm doing just about the same job on my mustang and I know you can delete the PATS system via in a retune. But with having multiple ecus, your best bet is to rewire the engine harness to work off the original ecu. I have an Original 99 cobra engine harness if you need it!
I graduated HS in 1996. The 94-95 mustang GT was my dream for a first car. In 2002, i saw the WS6 Firebird and i wanted one, just not as bad as the 95 mustang GT. It took me 17 years to finally get the Mustang which had 3 wheels in the grave from having a hard life and hard owners. I was the 4th owner. Then, i got a stripped V6 mustang that i restored on a rotisserie for 6 years. I have my first car dream and I'm ready to collect the others including a New Edge mustang. Good video Alex 💪🏆
There's a nice re-usable oil pan gasket from the factory.... you may want to consider installing this as it has some significant thickness to it which spaces the pan away from the pickup.... Sometimes those pickups can be pretty close to the pan from the factory...
Alex, Ford didn't skip the 02 cobra. They skipped it in every country, but Australia. They sent 200 02 cobras to Australia. It's pretty much an 01 cobra, but has a different front bumper, and I believe some small things.
I love my Saturday morning tradition of sitting down with some coffee and throwing one of your videos on. Thanks for all the great entertainment!
It's great getting up Saturday and watching car videos! We started uploading Fridays, but maybe Saturday is better. We aren't on Alex's level yet though haha.
Very excited to see this project coming together. I remember the late 90s/early 2000s computer tuning days, and it was truly the wild west back then. Going back to the factory ECU and eliminating the piggyback system you appear to have currently may be the best course of action. Get the car to start on the factory computer, then get a flash programmer like an SCT and a good tuner should be able to get you dialed.
Also, if you’re replacing the wheels that are on the Cobra, I’d be very interested in buying them for my ‘98. I’ve been looking for a set for a long time.
Love this channel out of all the others I follow. I graduated in 1983. Turn 59 on the 24th.
Class of 2002! I love the Terminator Cobras, but the 98-02 WS6 and SS models are a better overall package. The interior is more comfortable and the steering wheel, pedals, and shifter are located perfectly in the F-Body.
Class of 2002 as well here.
Class of 2018 😂
Love the Fcars, but the OEM steeringwheel sucks balls. Also GEN4 Fbodys sat too low, where SN95 chassis Mustangs sat too high.
BTW, class of I dropped out and got my GED, but I was supposed to be class of Y2K.
In my patch, a “cherry-picker” is a truck-mounted crane with a bucket on the end. Utility companies use it to fix transformers and power lines. Other than this channel, I’ve never heard of an engine hoist called a cherry picker.
I've always known it as a cherry picker here in Michigan.
I am 71 and we have always called a engine hoist a cherry picker. I my earliest memories there were dark red.
Graduated high school in 1965 … yeah that’s right, I’m 76 years young! 😂 I worked in the auto parts business for 20+ years, and repaired my own cars, (and friends also) until cars got smarter, and I got dumber! Alex, you have the best car channel on TH-cam, and along with Max, you two make the best videos that entertain and enlighten. I wish I had answers for your problem, but that’s why I watch you … to get the answers I no longer have! Good luck with the Cobra, and my vote is for any Firebird or Camaro! 😎
I like how you took the time to go through the used motor you bought. And as far as getting it to fire, it’s probably something simple, good luck Alex!👍🏿🤔😃
Graduated HS in 2000, so I'm right there with you on daydreaming about cars like these!
Also, a question: what's the potential benefit of the aftermarket timing gear? Or it this more about having a stronger part to handle the increased power?
Hi Alex! Did you ever measure the power of coil packs and compared them? Is there perhaps a higher current on hi performance cars over those in a Toyota Camri?
You are used to things not going to plan, however it doesent stop you doing stuff. Yet another great video, thanks very much.
I’ve been waiting for this cobra video since you brought it to your shop!
If I lived in Chicago Alex I would definitely want to work with you on these projects. I would even work for free just the experience of getting my hands dirty again would be payment enough
The engine that came out of your Cobra definitely wasn't the original engine. 96-99 Cobras (and some early 01s) got the Italian Teksid blocks. 01 Cobras got Ford WAP (Windsor Aluminum Plant) Blocks. The Teksid blocks had a square pattern in the valley, the WAP blocks had a diamond pattern (like yours) in the valley. The Teksid blocks are widely accepted as being stronger than the WAP blocks. But both should easily be able to handle the power level you are looking to throw at it.
the tekzid ones only need sleeves and some other minor stuff to handle 3k+ boosted hp
Always love your videos. The headers part reminded me why I label everything and put fasteners back in their spot. Two minutes later and I've forgotten.
Strawberry jelly rules! I graduated in 99....mini trucks were super popular in Central Florida. My 96 Nissan Hardbody was the first thing car-wise I worked on. I grew up racing dirt bikes so that was where I learned how to use a wrench with my dad. I miss that guy!
Any Ford guys out there that know about the immobilizer and PATs system? If it's seeing that the keys are programmed could the immobilizer still be faulty?
Alls I know is that the pats system can be a nightmare. I come from the ford focus world and if a pats module went bad or the computer went bad it wasn’t cheap because from what i understand the pats module and the ecu are “married” could be wrong but that’s what I’ve been told.
Maybe look into a FAST system for it Stands for fuel air spark technology It’s fully tunable and definitely more modern my buddy had one on his grand national
Pats system is a horrible nightmare. It immobilized my 2001 mustang and my 2003 ford ranger. I was able to fix the mustang by getting new keys programmed. The ranger had the flashing theft light just like yours. I paid a locksmith to reprogram keys for it and it didn’t fix it. I ended up selling the car using the 10 minute trick you showed.
Forscan can make a new key with only one. You have to use the registered version. It's the only software I have ever been able to do this with. Have to erase all keys first, the scary part. The computer then can learn the keys.
PATS can be deleted by programming the PCM, but not sure with that aftermarket unit what they are doing exactly. I had a 2001 Mustang GT that the key fob battery being low/weak would cause the theft light to blink and render the car without fuel and spark, so may try replacing that as it would be a really simple and easy fix. Also wanted to mention that holding the gas pedal to the floor while cranking will cause the injectors not to pulse, so make sure you aren't doing that when you are checking for pulse.
Hey Alex, would be cool if you did E85 conversion
PS: I prefer the Cobra, especially the Cobra R
Wait im confused, the aftermarket gear thingy, you didnt swap on the new engine. Did you forget it? 🤣
It's a crank trigger ring and it was under the front cover. He also replaced the crank trigger sensor, showing the old one was cracked.
@@FastSS02 Yes, I saw that he replaced the sensor. But not the ring. He measured it and it was the same but he kept the stock one.
Alex, I'm a Lincoln tech (so same thing) and deal with PATS all the time since it's still used for security today.
Doing the parameter reset and reprogramming the keys is usually done after installing a new pcm, and the fact you needed to do that to clear the fault probably indicates a faulty pcm. Pcms dying on old fords isnt weird at all - i had to put a new one in my 07 sport trac v8 last year since it had an open circuit internally on the circuit that runs the o2 sensor heaters and evap purge valve. Of course the pcm is long since obsolete (ford discontinued parts as soon as theyre legally allowed to) and i had to get an aftwrmarket reman... and the first one was faulty and failed while i was going 80 down the highway and shut the engine off.
Anyway thats a lot of rambling but id be suspicious of that old pcm as well as the janky wiring with the piggyback ecu potentially causing proboems toom
Class of 1998 here! Love your content!
Oooof! 16:19
Either stay inside the bolt holes or go all the way around. Never just go around the outside of a bolt hole.
Good to see you fixed the issue in the jump cut before fitting the pan.
I was so confused when I saw that, like he's asking for a leak through the bolt threads
I owned a 2001 cobra and a 2000 Z28 and the cobra was easily my favorite. I fit in the cobra much better and passengers liked it better because it didn't have the huge hump that's in the floorboard of those fourth GEN f bodies. The F body was also more difficult to work on in most cases due to engine placement.
Tell Me !
Too bad the Z28 was faster! We always called them SLOWbras around here until the Terminators came out. My stock 2002 Camaro SS would smoke all the Cobras unless they were supercharged, even then it was a close race.
@@FastSS02 the z28 was a little faster but nothing too crazy. I had both at the same time and mexico roll raced few times. for daily driving I preferred the cobra and didn't miss the z28 when I sold it.
You are one patient guy. Waiting for the next video. Enjoyed
I had problems with my PATS and ended up just going and having two new keys cut at my local Ace Hardware and programmed them to my car when i got home and it fired right up. After 2 weeks of messing with it and checking every wire, sensor and module i wish i had gotten the keys earlier lol. Good luck finding that engine computer i dont remember the last time I have seen one of those. Cant wait to see what you end up doing.
It's impressive to me how much you enjoy this without going bananas. I love working on my Terminator and GTO but I lose my mind and call nuts/bolts/parts all kinds of horrible names, throw tools and threaten to jump off high structures from start to finish. My wife will panic thinking I'm melting down, but I actually enjoy blowing a fuse and losing my mind doing the work, its a good release to stay calm for everything else life brings 😅
Definitely miss Peter on the channel, hopefully the friendship is ok. Max is the man though, keep paying him good!
Same 😢 where did he go?
Was just thinking this. What happened to Peter?
Same, Peter was a good sidekick.
Is he the one that stole from him. I wouldnt count on a friendship or appearance after that.
I knew nothing about anyone stealing from him. If so, wow that’s sad
See if it will run on the stock computer. If you have to replace the ignition cylinder it comes with 2 keys already cut. But looking at what you found it's prolly wiring or corrosion issue. Definitely see if you can get it to run just off the stock ecm and go from there.
If I recall, the key only unlocks the door. It doesn't disable the theft system. Only the fob does. Also starting the car with the gas pedal all the way down will do a cylinder balance test (or something like that) when it starts.
Alex is the best because you can tell he doesn’t ham it up for the camera. You can tell he’s just as great of a guy as he is a great mechanic off camera.
Always good watching bro, that mustang computer looks like it'll be a heap of fun😁👍. Keep the good work coming, I'm always watching....
I love your videos been watching them awhile now and ive learned so much.
I had the same frustrating THEFT symptom haunt me on my '97 Cobra. If I remember correctly it ended up being a loose connector in the steering column. Even if this isnt the case with yours, it would be super quick and easy to verify. Simply remove a couple screws to the plastic cover in front of the wheel to have access to ignition switch area and double check in there. Good luck!
Alex, get rid of that old standalone box. Convert back to the original PCM. Once you do that, get a new handheld SCT Tuner. You can then work with a local dyno shop to get a new tune flashed to the stock PCM. You can also work with remote tuners for "mail order" tunes but would recommend that you get it on an actual dyno. I have a 2003 that I have supercharged with a Kenne-Bell 2.1 and had my car dynoed at AED in Shingle Springs, CA using the SCT to load the dyno tune. Worked great.
I was class of 2005. My mothers daily was a 1998 Mitsubishi GST. My father was in prison and I would sneak out Saturday nights. I saw a group of what I saw were Mustang GT's. I gave compliment, "Hey sweet Mustang!", He responded "its fu**ing Cobra!", they all punched it and GONE. Fastest/loudest thing I had seen with my eyes at that point in life
new subscriber! Love your content and vid style. All talking combined with action! Nice!
Class of 2001 here! Also, that Red white and blue with the cars in the background 🏁🇺🇸
Definitely a WS6 Trans Am All DAY. I have the same taste in cars you do. Love AMG 55/ 63 Mercs too. Strawberry jelly for the PBJ.
actually, just turn the key on for ten minutes, then once thats over DONT turn it off, just START the car. the ecu is possibly fine since the car is working nearly everywhere else and its not burning/smoking. once you start the car however, run it for a bit. dont shut it off while out on a drive. drive for abit. then return and "check" to see if the resync has occurred. if not, then try GMC/Chevys b.s. reset/resync procedures. or you purchase a chip that flashes it out of the ecu but some say it runs like ass without pats. not sure on that one, normally 2000s vehicles mine included run just fine without security but are at higher risks of being stolen.
When you leave the key for ten minutes, dont remove the key, crank it until it "blips" and tries to start. THEN redo it again, blip and then one more tiime once the third time is done (30 minutes total) crank to start. i might be slightly off, as its been a while since ive delt with PATS or chevys version but their both pretty similar in terms of re sync. google chevys b.s. and follow the 30 min re sync guide as thats what i done. worked like a charm. buddy got a free truck replaced dam near everything, had new keys etc pump, switch, pcm and none of it worked. cud had bypassed security but re syncing worked. uncle had an old cobra which had this issue. and the same method worked for him.
As the temporary fix take. a multimeter and check the amount of resistance in the key and then. key and then wire in to the ignition switch. The closest amount you can come with resistors that may bypass the theft system
Good work.👍 I would be frustrated with all those electrical and computer issues.
Normal pats operation is the light turns on solid for 3 seconds and shuts off. The fast blink means it's not detecting the transponder in the key or its not programmed. Look at the base of the key, there is a tiny cover, you can open it and pop out the transponder. Ford requires 2 programmed keys to add a 3rd or more and I think 12 is max. Pull apart the cover around the ign switch and inspect the receiver, it's right behind the actual key cylinder.
I'm a Josh lol. This is what I found
"Just joshing you" came from the late 1800's and has a very interesting story behind it! Josh Tatum was a deaf mute, but a very enterprising young man from the Midwest. In 1883 the US Mint came out with a new nickel. It was deemed the Liberty Head Nickel and on the reverse side had a large roman numeral V stamped on it.
The new nickel did not have the word "cents" or "nickel" stamped on it. Josh Tatum noticed this and the fact that it was nearly the same size as the US $5.00 gold piece, which at the time was used as common currency. With the help of a friend familiar in gold electroplating… (sorry, I lost a page here, but you’ll still get the idea: Josh and his friend turned these coins into replicas of the $5 coin. Josh used them) at stores & mercantiles. He was very careful not to purchase anything that cost more than a nickel.
The clerk would accept the coin, and in most instances give Josh back $4.95 in change, which he happily would take. By the time law enforcement caught up to him, he had visited hundreds of towns & had amassed a small fortune. TheLaw prosecuted him but ironically he was found not guilty on the most serious charges, because he only purchased items that totaled 5 cents, and because he was deaf & could not speak, he never represented that it was a new $5.00 goldpiece.
The same year, the US mint added the word "cents" to the Liberty HeadNickle in an effort to bring this type of fraud to a halt. Hence the famoussaying "you're not Joshing me are you"?
Ford tech here that also uses maxysis: i was having the same issue as you on a newer ecobooost transit. The ECU->PATS module CANBUS lines were shorted to power. Ended up frying the ECU had to reprogram from as built data on fords website. The ford specific OBD program FORSCAN i believe can do that, if not i know rotunda can pull straight from fords archives. You probably will lose your tune if you go that way but im sure you were going to dyno it anyway
Forscan can do as built.