I have the corded version of this saw. Couple suggestions. Use the clamps. Your workpiece was moving on the table. If thats happening its likely that your track is also not stable - and if it moves 2 mm you're going to bind & burn. Secondly - and again - just a suggestion... but i would not move that saw backwards on that track. No riving knife and no clamps means if that track shifts a mm - that saw is gonna pop back up towards you off the track. with the fast break on it you may be ok but it'll make a mess out of your track /splinter guard and prolly damage your workpiece. The weight of the saw - if you are starting it on a portion of the track that is not directly over the workpiece will cause the track to bow slightly - and its enough to reduce the friction on those rubber strips & the track may wander. Again - using the clamps will eliminate this.
Super thin kerf blades have a tendency to go walk abouts. You have said you’d consider getting a thicker kerf. But also consider fewer teeth too. The finish quality may be a little lower quality but it’s a lot less stress on the tool. As well the track deducts a few mm from the depth of cut
I have the same saw. The blade on mine was not in line with the base. It should have a very slight toe-in at the front. It was a real tedious process but once adjusted it cuts way better. You might want to check yours before purchasing a new blade. The Tall Carpenter has a video explaining it.
How about using some clamps which usually belong to the rail or at least are optional (okay I know it from Festool) for attachment and better alignment the same way? Will certainly straiten up the cutline and maybe prevent further deflection. And as far as I know a plungesaw can ...well plunge into the material wherever you like where a railsaw´s blade and engine are attached to the I call it groundplate so you can begin cutting only at the edge of stuff. But for some of cours very well reasons which I just don`t know confusion seems to be hardwired to powertools all over the world.
I had heard conflicting reports on that - some guy on a video said that the measurements took the rail into account, so you had to mentally adjust the number when you're not using it as a rail saw. But you must be right. And that's annoying, because it's very much marketed as a rail saw, rather than a standard circular saw.
Although the whole work piece moves slightly (as you can see in the video), the rail itself seems to stick in place on the surface really well. But I'll try that to see if it helps.
Thanks again for the suggestion @mrnoname8992 . I've just tried another cut on the end of this table with everything clamped down - the workpiece and the rail, using the rail clamps. Unfortunately it didn't reduce the blade deflection. I've just uploaded a short about this. I'm just going to have to try finding a more robust blade for the saw, and hope that resolves the issue.
I have the corded version of this saw. Couple suggestions. Use the clamps. Your workpiece was moving on the table. If thats happening its likely that your track is also not stable - and if it moves 2 mm you're going to bind & burn. Secondly - and again - just a suggestion... but i would not move that saw backwards on that track. No riving knife and no clamps means if that track shifts a mm - that saw is gonna pop back up towards you off the track. with the fast break on it you may be ok but it'll make a mess out of your track /splinter guard and prolly damage your workpiece. The weight of the saw - if you are starting it on a portion of the track that is not directly over the workpiece will cause the track to bow slightly - and its enough to reduce the friction on those rubber strips & the track may wander. Again - using the clamps will eliminate this.
Super thin kerf blades have a tendency to go walk abouts. You have said you’d consider getting a thicker kerf. But also consider fewer teeth too. The finish quality may be a little lower quality but it’s a lot less stress on the tool. As well the track deducts a few mm from the depth of cut
I have the same saw. The blade on mine was not in line with the base. It should have a very slight toe-in at the front. It was a real tedious process but once adjusted it cuts way better. You might want to check yours before purchasing a new blade. The Tall Carpenter has a video explaining it.
That's an excellent suggestion - thanks.
How about using some clamps which usually belong to the rail or at least are optional (okay I know it from Festool) for attachment and better alignment the same way? Will certainly straiten up the cutline and maybe prevent further deflection. And as far as I know a plungesaw can ...well plunge into the material wherever you like where a railsaw´s blade and engine are attached to the I call it groundplate so you can begin cutting only at the edge of stuff. But for some of cours very well reasons which I just don`t know confusion seems to be hardwired to powertools all over the world.
In Europe they're called plunge saws to add extra confusion 😂
Oh, we get that here, too. Then when you put them on a rail, they become a plunge cut rail saw... I think!
The cutting depth stated by Makita is without a rail, you must add 4 mm to your cutting depth when you use it on the rail
I had heard conflicting reports on that - some guy on a video said that the measurements took the rail into account, so you had to mentally adjust the number when you're not using it as a rail saw. But you must be right. And that's annoying, because it's very much marketed as a rail saw, rather than a standard circular saw.
Reading yhe manual prior to use does help. :)
That's crazy talk. 🤪
Clamp your rail with the rail clamps when cutting thick workpieces
Although the whole work piece moves slightly (as you can see in the video), the rail itself seems to stick in place on the surface really well. But I'll try that to see if it helps.
Thanks again for the suggestion @mrnoname8992 . I've just tried another cut on the end of this table with everything clamped down - the workpiece and the rail, using the rail clamps. Unfortunately it didn't reduce the blade deflection. I've just uploaded a short about this. I'm just going to have to try finding a more robust blade for the saw, and hope that resolves the issue.
Oh - and there will be a follow-up video with the new blade I've ordered!