I recently bought the 36v Makita track saw with the 55” track. Like you I also didn’t want to spend double for the Festool. I think you hit every reason why I went with Makita. Very nice video, great organization of content. Love my Makita Track Saw!
I just bought the makita , used it once and I’m sold ! The first track saw I used was a fest tool from wood craft in Houston at a wood working cabinet class . To break down ply wood for 3 cabinets . It took minutes to do this job with the fest tool track saw . I used the Kreg accu cut , toon it back . Too much dust , not accurate. Track saw , can’t go wrong ! Makita with the makita 55” track worked flawlessly. Not going back . Ordered the power Tec 110” track
I have the same tool - If I had to do it again, I'd go with the CORDED version again. Like you said... in the shop, with dust extraction attached, it really makes no sense to go battery - it's marketing trying to lock people into battery/tool systems. :)! Even if I went with the Festool version - it would be corded! Same way I choose my big router - corded. Trimmers, I'd maybe opt for a battery version (lot of the time use it without dust collection). Sander - ALL corded. Grinder (small), drills, impact, blowers - all cordless.
I agree. It also really depends on how much you value proper dust extraction. You can find so many videos online of people not using any dust extraction where it might be appropriate. It has already been clear for years that dust of hardwood in certain quantities is very bad for you (a cause of cancer), and for various years proof is coming out that soft wood can also have these effects. So for me, this dust extraction becomes quite important. And then it really it does not matter much to have a power cord attached to the saw as well. But not everyone thinks the same way about this or simply acts based on different information. I do get the point that if you're working outside much or at places where having power outlets near you all the time would make you choose a battery version. Simply nearly removing this option by choosing for a corded version is something to consider.
I had a Wen track saw (with the Powertec tracks) and it died on me last night. At first I thought it was the brushes, but they're intact and no amount of fiddling would resurrect it. I was cutting strips of MDF, so nothing demanding -- but the smell makes me think that the motor burned out. The bare saw only set me back about $100, but it's a great example of "buy once, cry once." The Makita is available refurbished (battery or corded) for around $330, sans track, so I'm upgrading. Fortunately, my old tracks are compatible. Thanks for the insights and the straightforward review!
Just got the Makita sp6000, and it is a joy to use compared to my old budget track saw. And even just with a regular shop vac hooked up to it, there was literally no dust! (I did 3D print a little cover to block off the blade change window). The stock blade supplied with the makita seems excellent too. My first project using it today was repurposing an oak table top - it’s about 30mm thick and an oak veneer over a man made core. The makita sailed through it and left a super clean cut with no chip out.
Really great production quality! It's clear you did your homework about lighting and audio recording. The b-roll is fantastic, and you took the time to do timestamps and chapter markers! Super impressive for a new channel. Not to mention that your opinion is well reasoned and effectively communicated!
I've used the Festool, Makita and the Triton. Owned the Makita for almost 2 years now , use it regularly and it's still cutting perfect. Probably time to replace the rubber cut line on the rail soon. In my opinion the Makita is right up there with the Festool with it beating the Makita in only a few minute areas. The Triton work alright but was a beast weight wise! And my 118 inch rail was just under 200$ at a local tool distributor. You might be able to find a similar deal online. Although I have seen ridiculous shipping charges like you mentioned. Almost as much as the rail on some sites! Good review and enjoy!
I have the Makita track saw and it’s outstandingly accurate and phenomenally easy to use. Wish I’d started off with it. It would have saved me a lot of time, money, and disappointment. My advice is to get one asap….
I'm subscribed to a TON of woodworkers, and you are one of my favorites. I wish I had found your channel when I first started out. I think some of the wisdom out there is outdated or slightly elitist in a way that actually doesn't serve new woodworkers. Your takes are insightful and informative in a way that few channels manage. Keep it up my dude.
I think this was a very honest review on what this guy thought and that is the most one should expect from a review. Alternately, one could do a data based review which is just reading statistics. Although some data is needed to see if it has the physical capabilities and capacities, a reasonable review based on a reasonable man's experience is far better. To that end, I find this guy was refreshingly honest. You did well.......but as I stated, aluminum is for airplanes.......at least the shoe and all rails should be made of carbon fiber.
My Makita is my second track saw. My first was a DeWalt. I had no issues with DeWalt's quality. Everything functioned as it should. I sold that saw and tracks and bought the Makita corded saw because the track is a clone of Festool's track. Most of the aftermarket accessories are made for Festool's track and are compatible with the Makita and Triton tracks. I went with the corded saw because I am heavily invested in Bosch battery tools and didn't want to add another battery platform to my shop.
watched this and many other videos on track saws. Settled on the Makita then went back and forth between corded or batteries. The corded was available now and did not have to invest $200 in two new batteries. Arrived on Monday and started using it today. Works great clean cuts, nice and square. Now I need to invest in dust collection what a mess. No brainer replacement for my cheap task force table saw.
Like the honesty and straight to the point opinion. I wanted a table saw but they scare the living shit out of me so next week i'm getting a track saw (not sure which one yet) as it just seems a lot safer and takes up a lot less space.
10:03 I don't mind the power cord at all. I already have to run a hose from my dust extractor to the saw. I just clip the cord to the hose and it doesn't get in the way. I'm already on Bosch and Ryobi battery systems and don't really want a third one.
I bought the corded version for a couple reasons: 1. It turns on the dust collection. I can plug it into my Bosch dust collector. 2. I'm a weekend woodworker, so want it to last. I've bought battery tools and eventually they go bad and / or the technology changes and then the tool is no longer good. 3. This is the only Makita tool I have, so if the batteries were dead I couldn't do anything. There is a cool case that you can put 2 of the 55" tracks, clamps, and hardware which I also purchased.
One nice thing about Makita saw is that it is compatible with Festool and Powertec track. If you have the older Festool Systainers, the Makita MakPacs are compatible.
@@juliancasey501 I'll check it out. I have used both Powertec and Makita rails with my Makita track saw without issues. I have a Festool LR32 rail I planned to use with my OF 1400 router.
I've had my corded Makita for about a year now, I've got the 118", 55" and 39" tacks and I use them all the time. probably my favorite tool in the shop, incredibly versatile and convenient. Cordless is next!
@@wittworks I bought multiple 55" tracks and a 118" track when Makita had them on sale, 2 for 1. I carry three 55" tracks with me all the time. I opened the 118" track to inspect it (it was nicely packed in crate) and then put it back and hung it from ceiling. I have never used it and noticed last week that the case is now warped from hanging. I was like you and figured I needed the 118" track. I wouldn't buy it today, it's too long and heavy and it's been more convenient to simply connect two 55" tracks than the get the 118" track down. Your experience may differ, but be cautious.
The tracksaw from Festool was one of my 5 first tools i bought. Never ever did i regret. The Makita seems to be almost as good or a bit better in some parts. But i personally recomend it more worth it than a tablesaw for beginners. Ofcourse it can't rip wooden planks/beams easily on center.
Disappointment of the bad quality lasts longer than the joy of the lower price . From what I see Makita is still in the top 4 plunge saw at the market . Now I'm on the way to buy the 40v cordless version just because the second most powerful saw out there has a wee bit of strange sinking motion I'm not familiar with but better track in my opinion .
I’m a self employed finish carpenter of 20 plus years. Up to about 2 years ago I was using a borla track and a home made zero clearance shoe on a dedicated saw for track saw purposes. Then I used a festool and it was so fast and accurate. I promised myself that the next built in job I got I’d get one and I got the battery Makita. I got it with a lot of accessories like all the tracks, ripping guides, accucut track square,extra blades,clamps. It was so worth the wait. I use it all the time. One thing I look forward to is that you can run the festool blades on it wich are double the thickness which makes them stiffer so no saw scar. I just got the rocklar hose and tool hookups and look forward to trying that out as well as I see makita has made a dust extractor recently and that will be sweet to use. Looking forward to see if it’s a good value compared to festools dust extractors.
I'd recommend a track saw plus a miter for people getting started. If you are really price conscious, I've used the Wen track saw and thought it was pretty good.
Great video and review! I agree with the logic and competitive observations. I've had the corded Makita saw since 2015 in my shop, with consistent and excellent results. I work in one place, and dust collection is very important to me, too. I think your more recent review review of Makitas' 3 current options ( Corded, 36v, 40v) really brought it home for me. Problem for me is we are downsizing, and moving to a place that has a full WW shop. So, in prep for the move, I've just sold off my whole shop!!. So now I am in SEVERE shop withdrawal!!!!! So, I have just ordered a new Makita track saw, and am sticking with the corded version. The battery operated saws don't have the connectivity I want. Thanks for your perspective!
Good info on the Makita. I have been comparing the Mikita to the Kreg. Two items the Kreg has over the Makita, a riving knife and also guides at the end of the track to guide the dust hose and power code. Wish someone would do a comparison between the two, but haven’t seen anything. Only comparison’s to the Festool.
I agree with you reasoning and analysis. I happened to have bought the same saw about 7 years ago or so, 2 55" tracks, and use Festool accesories because there are at least 4 Festool dealers and zero Makita track saw dealers in my area. Were I to do it again, I'd buy the battery model if I already had Makita batteries. That Festool track compatibility is huge. The Shopfox/Grizzly models (which from other sources are okay, but not as good as the Makita), DeWalt, and Maffel (beast and very expensive) aren't. That means 3rd party accessories like TSO Tools products which keep coming up as the go to brand for price/performance value. I bought the Makita track bag to keep the tracks safe betwen use and worth every penny.
I deliberated for a long time about which to get and was very close to picking up the Makita but I finally went with the corded Bosch GKT55GCE, delivered today actually. It's going to be a real game changer for me.
@@spawnfinity i've not used the Festool so can only comment on the Bosch, which has been excellent. It's done everything I've needed it to effortlessly from cutting up sheet goods to trimming doors.
I really enjoyed your video, and liked how candid you were. Particularly enjoyed the bit how you would inch up to right size of your cut, but with the track saw, it is always spot on. I have been on the fence between a circular saw and a track saw, but seeing the safety of a the plunge feature, gives the track saw another advantage.
Thank you Bill. You’re very kind. I have the track saw, a corded ridgid circ, and a battery makita circ. I never use the circulars because I never really do “rough” work. Mostly plywood work or trimming ends of panels. Hope you get one soon!
If you're dragging around a dust collection hose anyway, why go cordless, especially given the price premium? I can see it for drill/drivers, recip saws, and even routers; but for anything I'm hooking up to my vacuum--saw, sander, planer, etc.--cordless doesn't give you anything but emptier pockets and more weight.
That's exactly my take. The other issue is switching the dust collector on and off, with a corded unit it's simple, just use the outlet on the vacuum. With a battery tool you have to start messing about with bluetooth or special remotes, otherwise you are constantly reaching to switch the vacuum, which defeats the convenience of cordless.
i got the Makita SP6000 as well but was looking at the Dewalt as well. I think the problem with the Dewalt is many of the accessories for the festool fit the Makita rail but not the bosch/Mafell or dewalt which is kind of a big negative for me. Used the Makita to cut solid oak 35mm doors with a bench dogs rail square which was awesome. Did find the saw struggled on the wider 40mm doors and had to do those in two cuts. Would recommend getting a rail square as its much faster to get 90 degrees cuts. Just bought parallel guides which I am waiting to come through which I am hoping will make building cabinets even faster :-) I also don't regret buying the SP6000. Not really interested in the cordless version as need to plug in the vacuum anyways plus is less powerful for doing things like solid 40mm oak doors :-) I don't have a table saw and have no plans to get one with the track saw.
I'm a bit of a Makita fanboi. I've never been disappointed with their tools. The track saw is life-changing and the battery version is perfect, even in the garage, not having to worry about trailing leads just makes things so much less hassle. I've not used my circular saw once in the last 5 years. Just drop the track where you want to cut, plonk the saw on and off you go with a perfect cut. Heaven!
You are by far one of the most enjoyable TH-cam carpenter guys I subscribe to. I could go on but won't. You are doing it right. I hope your subscriber numbers grow significantly.
I enjoyed and got value out of your presentation. I would like to add a comment: I generally do not have a problem with getting acceptable results using a circular saw. In fact I had previously thought track saws were kind of a waste of money. However I just ordered a Makita. The main reason I want a track saw, if for no other reason, is dust control. And a lot of reviews I’ve seen rate the Makita number 1 8:52 track saw.
Thank you for making this great video! It has helped me make my decision. I'm going corded because I always use my dust collector (it is on a sensor like yours.) The rationale for the corded version is that my vacuum is corded, and I have it out already. Very informative, thank you for sharing your experiences!
@@wittworks I just found out, Makita makes the cordless saw with wireless connectivity to the Makita vacuum (which, I do not have.) Model xps02zu But maybe there is a sensor which receives the Bluetooth signal???
Hey! Just wanted to let you know that I gave 2x 55" tracks + connector blocks a go, and it was a no go for me. In the end i went and got the 118" track instead. The problem was that the connecting blocks fix the two tracks by expanding along the vertical (hope you follow:) instead of horizontal. If they tightened along the horizontal axes they would probably align the tracks properly together. However since they tighten along the vertical they do nothing to align the tracks, therefor the track alignment is dependent on them being square at the ends, which none of my were. I will attempt to file it down just for that occasion when i want to connect the 118" and the 55" together :)
Thanks! Makes sense. I’ve seen some people take the rails and give them a fresh cut to make them square, but I agree on the design flaw. I’m saving up for a 118 still. 👀
@@wittworks hey! I had to split up a bunch of 2" oak for a 3m (118") table top, and they were so rough and my table saw too small to docthis in any safe manner on the tablesaw. So i did it with the track saw. I also got an 18" festool blade that worked wonders (festool was easier to come by quickly). The original 56 tooth blade cannot be used to split 2" oak. You will just ruin the blade. The batteries didnt last for very long, but hey, its a monster rip after a monster rip. But the power was def sufficient! Thanks foe your video!
I have a Grizzly that I bought used from a contractor. It was a little beat up, but it runs good. It has a riving knife which is a plus. Both my tracks are slightly bowed and now I am missing a bolt to lock the tilt so I wanted to buy a new cordless track saw, but the makita and festool are a 3-5 month wait. If I like it I might buy the cordless one for the work van.
I got the same saw as a birthday gift from my legendary brother. I had the same issue with a home “track” and other guides. It’s just taken the user error away.
I just ordered the 36v makita track saw with the 55” rail. I wanted battery for when I do house projects and don’t want cords laying everywhere but when I’m in the shop doing projects I wish there was a way to make the cordless saws auto start a vacuum or dust collector like you can do with corded versions can do with a automated switch.
Yeah that’s main issue. Makita has an AWS enabled 36v. If you buy a makita vacuum with AWS they will talk. If you have a different vacuum they make an adapter for $180 (!!!!) that will pretend to be a plug in tool.
Plunge saw are the dogs. Even though mine is a cheap one it's made a big difference to my work process. Parallel guides are incredibly handy for breaking down sheet material. Benchdogs make them and an excellent fence system designed for MFT tables. But I'd imagine it would not be cheap shipping state side.
I’ve. Always been pretty good with circular saw. Years ago I made a big shoe plate to rip 45s into 14’ cedar 1by12 making a box beam. If or when I get to a project requiring a track saw I will definitely go with Makita “battery model”. After personal experiences with Milwaukee, Dewalt, Ridgid and others all my portables are Makita 18v . -No experience with Festool and the amount of use vs investment wouldn’t pay me to go that route - On a side note though - my 3hp Triton router mounted in a table is fantastic with its above table micro adjust. I believe other mfgs “Bosch” ...are doing that too but not sure.
I have many Kreg products and consider it a great brand. The only product I regret buying is the Accu-Cut. After careful setup, and making sure the two halves were perfectly straight, it still failed. The traveler has a lot of slop in it and this caused my Milwaukee saw to wander into the zero clearance strip (after the initial trimming cut). After I ruined the first strip I went to the internet to see if I could solve the problem. I seemed that I wasn't doing anything wrong with my setup. After careful checking I trimmed the second side.....and ruined it too. I'm now looking to gift the Accu-Cut to someone willing to buy fresh zero clearance strips and try their luck. I'm leaning toward buying the Makita corded. With my luck Milwaukee will come out with one 91 days after I buy the Makita. LOL!
I feared that experience with the Accu-Cut! You'd love the Makita. And you're right. Milwaukee is waiting for you to buy it...its just how it works! I am really surprised they don't have one yet...
I feel your pain... I also thought, " I dont need a tracksaw that often, and don't want to spend a whole lot of $$ on one", so I got the Kreg Accu-cut ...And came to regret it.. That thing just sucks. I now am waiting for the Makita I ordered to be delivered.. Love Kreg's pocket hole system though
@@wittworks So, I just received my Makita, had to try it rightaway of course... This thing is everything one can ask for... Cut trough 2in elm like butter, cut clean and straight as an arrow. Makes me mad when I look back and think of my struggles with the accu(not)-cut....
Just looked up the 118" track. I just got my Makita tracksaw delievered today. Anyway i found the track on amazon through Toolmarts, $290 free shipping, not including taxes. Add about $24 for shipping. But delievery wont be til mid-Sept. Too much for me at the moment but hopefully you see this and you can get it. About $100 less than usual!
I just ordered one of these. The one I bought comes with the 118" track instead of the 55". Was only $100 CAD more the 55" set. I'll probably buy a 55" once I get tired of the size but I'm really excited about the ability to rip a full 8' sheet.
I am going down the track saw rabbit hole. I just got a corded Makita circular saw and I am happy with it. I have a garage shop so having corded tools to me is ok. I was at Home Depot and was looking at jig saws. Everything is going battery but they sell the tools with no battery. Your other video on corded vs battery Makita forgot one thing the charger. So back at Home Depot the rigid battery was 150 dollars plus you have to buy the tool then the charger. I think they don't sell Complete tools as the price would be way up there. Also thought of the battery tools as I have not thought of it before. I have Riobi hand vacuum and a leaf blower, a Ridged kit that had drill, driver and circular saw, Dewalt drill and Black and Decker weed eater. Now I have to have a place for all these chargers and batteries and electrical outlets to support them. I don't have that problem with corded tools. Just unplug and wind up the cord. Always have power and no dead battery when you need the tool. Yes it is a pain to unroll an extension cord, but once out I just switch tools. I have the Kreg Act Rip the one that slides down the side of your sheet goods. Looking at the Kreg track that uses a circular saw as it has the same base as the one I have. Sorry for the long post, I am a talker and I guess get carried away. Your videos have given me more things think about . Thanks.
I was exactly where you were, but since I already had a couple of makita batteries I opted for the cordless makita. I now have 3 tracks too and I'm about to get some parallel guides and the rail square for those. From all the reviews I've seen the makita is pretty much a cheaper festool clone.
Your video is a good unbiased view of the Makita plunge saw. I wonder why you didn't mention the spacer adjuster for maintaining nil clearance; the fact that it comes with a Makita factory blade which may be good or not so good quality; the anti-tipping device, and the scoring feature. Maybe I missed them in your video?? Great presentation also!! Cheers from Queensland Australia.
@@wittworksYap.! what should I say, sometimes I think to myself, why I cose the Battery version? I thnk the cable version has more power, but I can´t say it for sure. However, this type of saws is the best.
thanks for the honest review.......I am looking to buy my first track saw with the Makita version attracting my attention also (price, quality and reliability). BTW, I love my Makita products too 😉
I'm on the dewalt platform but decided to buy the makita battery track saw since it is much better. Bought it a week ago but used it for the first time today. Cuts were not good. Figured out the base plate is warped!! Not happy.
@@wittworks I did get the extra insurance, I never do that usually but since I've never owned a track saw before I thought it would be a good idea. But even without that they would have to exchange it since it'll be returned before 30 days of purchase.
Nice video and good production. I can confirm the cordless Makita is the way to go. I have not wanted for power or capacity. I will disagree with the assessment of the 39" track. I started with the 2-55" tracks which worked fine for cutting down sheet goods. I added the 39" track when I was doing a stair remodel in the house. This track is extremely handy to use the saw for shorter cuts like cutting skirt boards and invaluable for cutting stair treads (along with the Collins tread template). I keep the 39" track hanging conveniently in my shop and find I am grabbing for it quite often to make small cuts in boards which may be difficult to take to the miter or table saw. I picked up the 118" track earlier this year and am now well set. Having this selection makes extremely quick work of cutting down full sheets for projects. I got very good results joining the 55" sections but always had to separate and rejoin them when I needed to cut across a sheet. No more, I can grab the length necessary and cut. Now, I am contemplating cutting down one of my 55" tracks to use in situations where the 39" track was more than I need. It is good to have options.
@@wittworks - 2 tracks really sounds like the only way to get the rubber cut. Having a track saw and rails is not only about ease but also accuracy. So even with the high cost the 118” rail is a must for me soon. Putting 2 tracks together to rip full sheets would work decent but what about things more important than plywood? That’s when a 118” rail comes into play. Plus I guess we need 2 tracks in order to get the rubber trimmed equally front to back so why not just do it right the first time.
I've used the Bora track for a few years with the same Ridgid saw you held up. Time to move to a proper track saw since I'm about to replace our kitchen cabinets. Thanks for sharing your experiences.
Thank you Jay. Yes, a proper track saw is in a different league, especially when you need precision on things like cabinets. Maybe not if doing rough construction...hope you find a good one you like. Let me know which one you settle on.
Makita 40v Track 😉 There are ways around the lack of riving knife, so its not a dealbreaker. I love the festoon though. Between the two, for a professional, its preference imo. You'll make that money back with both and you'll be productive with both.
I had the Kreg track and used it with a Bosch circular saw. Hated it! Using the Kreg was the thing that pushed me to a proper track and plunge saw. BTW Festool owns Makita or Makita owns Festool. Not sure which is the parent company.
I'm late to comment but watch out with the Makita rail, the two neoprene 'grip' strips are quite far away from the cutting edge. I'm a fairly inexperienced track saw user and had kick back when trying to trim a thin side of a plywood piece down to size. The bit that was under the track was narrow enough not to reach the gripper strips and I mustn't have had it supported/ clamped down enough (it wasn't clamped) so it was able to move. This was a plunge cut and I was leaning over the saw to see where to stop, so was possibly applying pressure that skewed the saw as I did this (that's another downside of all track saws apart from the Kreg, they all cut on the side most people can't see). It was pretty scary, happened instantly and cut a limp out of the plywood and a big gouge out of my track. Lessons.... 1) Don't _ever_ put your fingers anywhere near the track when cutting 2) Clamp the piece you're cutting (as you said you do) 3) Use both hands on the saw (as you said you do) 4) Think about any pressure you're putting on the saw as you do the cut. 5) If you need to mark where to start/stop put it on the rail where you can see it. I hope this helps someone avoid injury.
I should haave said, this was an Erbauer saw (Screwfix in the UK own brand) on a makita track, the erbauer comes with 2* 700mm (~ 2') tracks, I wanted a single 1.5m track so bought the Makita.
Nial, thanks for the info. That’s pretty scary. I agree that the best practices are to have two hands on the saw, don't apply pressure other than pushing forward, clamp everything down, and have the track fully supported. For small pieces, i think its safer to take them to the table saw.
@@wittworks I haven't got a table saw, or band saw. I wonder if 'safety' is leverage to get them approved by the wife :-) . I think I could probably do the cut safely but I'd have supporting material (same plywood) clamped all round the piece in question so that it couldn't shift during the cut. A scary thing to happen but I've got a lot more respect for the saw now which isn't a bad thing, lesson hopefully learnt.
I’ve got the Kreg Accucut, that’s why I’m looking for a track saw. It’s better than using a straight edge but not by much. Too much slop between the sled and the track, plus your circular saw is tied up with the sled mounted on it.
i just nabbed one of these off fb marketplace for 350 with everything including the track. stoked. previous owner had it for a few months but claims he wasnt using it because he had transitioned to using a table saw........ even the factory blade still looks decent because he only used it cut PVC for cabinets. I'm going to return the accu-cut to homedepot, making my net cost for this purchase 250$. regardless of what brand you fanboy, at that price it's a no-brainer to me.
I have the Kreg accucut (sp?) system and it does not work well for me with the saw I have. Especially for sheet goods when making long cuts - it has never cut straight.
$339! That is inexplicable! I went through the same process. almost did the Kreg but it was always on back order. I did go with the corded knowing I could update to the cordless version in the future. I did not find great reviews on the Dewalt. I love the Makita even though mine is made in China. I'd rather have one made in Japan. Is wha it is. I had the same concern regarding the cordless not being powerful enough. My final reason for getting the Makita was the availability of the long track.
Good choice. Bought one a few years ago and have zero regrets. Also have the Festool corded version but I just like the Makita better. I’ve tried DIY route but honestly there’s absolutely no comparison. People saying you can just make a DIY has obviously never used a real track saw.
@@wittworks Well one is because the Makita is the cordless version. Two it’s just a nicer saw IMO and Makita has the lock to lock saw on track for 45 degree cuts to prevent accidental tilting during critical 45 degree cuts.
@@wittworks Honestly it doesn’t bother me one bit. Besides not having it allows me to make plunge cuts. I think people will complain about any and every little thing nowadays.
I have the Festool track saw and mostly cut hardwood. I cut a lot of hardwood breaking down large rough cut boards and I am very disappointed in the power of the motor. The Festool motor will start to overheat and go into a slow safety mode if you cut hardwood anywhere near as fast as you would cut with any corded skilsaw. For my purposes I would be most interested in knowing what track saw can cut as fast as a skill saw, thereby allowing me to break down rough cut boards twice as fast as my Festool tracksaw.
@@wittworks thanks for the reply. I will check out the Makita track saw. Time is money and while the Festool track saw gives me outstanding quality it takes twice as long because I have to cut slowly.
I purchased the grizzly track saw and returned it as soon as I opened the box. The quality was not up to grizzly standards. The materials were cheap and the supports holding the motor and blade would flex as soon as pressure was applied. The joint that allows the plunging feature to occur was loose and rocked back and forth.
Im really weighing - battery allowing me to take cuts outside easily - corded cheaper and not having to switch on and off the vac for every cut when I’m in the shop… tough call. Could I get both? 😅
The problem with the Accu-cut is the amount of blue strip left after setting it up using a Mikita 7 inch saw it leaves barely anything of the blue strip
@@wittworks it's actually really close to the metal track too so all it takes is a slight bit of movement and you are cutting into the the metal track and I've set it up 3 times now just to make sure as a friend had some spare blue strips its way to close.
Milwaukee, DeWalt, and Makita! The triple threat of tools. Usually pretty cheap or affordable, powerful, and in stock in stores, no need to order and wait unless there is a great deal online.
I have the cordless version. The tool is absolutely amazing. I bought a cheap off brand track saw first. And the thing fell apart. This makita has been amazing.
Dude I have to pay 598 euros for the Makita tracksaw here in IRELAND.. How is it that u get all that gear for 339 dollars?? Tools are so bloody expensive over here man.. I really want to get the Makita track saw bcos I've heard they're really great my friend.. Great video but I really would've liked to see u doing some real work with it.. I loved hearing how precise the Makita and what u said about not using ur table saw as much anymore either was good to hear too.. Now the just under 600 euros for the Makita Track saw I want here in IRELAND comes with 2 tracks which is probably why it's so expensive but that's a huge hike in price for one extra track bro.. Jeez the cost of tools today is maddening.. Great video my friend and I will defo be thinking about getting the Makita Track saw now bcos I was thinking of buyong a Cast Iron table saw but they're very expensive to say the least so this Makita on ur recommendation is where I will go. Thanks man and take care..
Have the corded as well. Vey happy with it. Once problem I am having is the replaceable strip. After the initial cut it is nice and clean but as I use the saw more it gets chewed up and jagged. I am sure it is an operator issue but I can't figure out what I am doing wrong? Any suggestions? Really enjoy your content, thank you.
I don't like the way the dewalt saw plunged Makita is the best track saw for the money. I have a festool and a cordless Makita xsh08z that fits on the track
Hi there. Thanks for the great video. A little help, maybe? How to put two 55"s together in an accurate straight line? I constantly get about 1mm deviation when ripping 8x4 on the long edge and it's frustrating. Any ideas?
Hi thanks for your review. I will go with your choice however what kind of blade do you recommend for plywood and hard wood ? I appreciate your advice.
Great video, I’ve had the marital track saw for years now and it one of my favorite tools. I was wondering what vacuum hose you are using? Is that connected to a shop vac or a dust collector?
Thanks Joe! It's my favorite also! Here's a link to the cheap hose I got on amazon: amzn.to/3bLUb4P I hook it up to my shop vac instead of my big dust collector. I also mentioned it in this video: th-cam.com/video/pCRdK8ZFGq0/w-d-xo.html
Hi @wittworks! I recently purchased a Makita SP6000j for a woodworking project in my laundry room. Could you recommend the best blade for cutting through a high-pressure laminate benchtop? I'm aiming for the cleanest cut possible. Best regards, Frans
12:11 I don't think I'd ever need a riving knife on my track saw. If using track saw, i want the best quality, i would support my material all the way, it'd worth getting some sacrificial material beneath it. Else, i'd use my circular saw.
I use that rigid foam insulation (usually pink or green colored) you can get at home centers. A full 4x8 2” thick sheet isn’t cheap but it’ll last for literally hundreds of cuts, and it almost completely eliminates tearout.
Hi. Have you ever put a straight edge against your cut to see if there is any day light between the straight edge and the piece you cut ? I appreciate your input. Thanks.
Looking at getting a Makita track saw for the shop. At this time, I do not have any other Makita tools. Should I just go corded or just go cordless? If I go corded, 36v or wait for the 40v to come out next month or early January? Thanks!
I am happy with my corded (and I almost always use a dust hose anyway). I also have makita cordless stuff too. I think the new 40v is a bigger blade at 7ish”. I guess it would depend on what you’d cut most of the time. I do plywood mostly and don’t need a “regular” size circ blade. I think you’d be happy with any.
Hey brother, I’m primarily a handtool woodworker and have officially listed my table saw on FB marketplace to sell because all uses can be done by hand or… with a track saw. I’m going to purchase a track saw May 1st… do your conclusions still hold for the Makita? I’m torn between the Makita and the Bosch. I know so can save some money with the Makita and I don’t have any need for cordless really aside from simple ease of use. I will use primarily lumber prep, cutting bevels on rare occasions and then home uses (out home is a big 126 year old hole in the ground you pour money and time into 😂❤). Thoughts?
I'm still a makita guy! Never used bosch, but I do know they're not very popular. I'd go makita or Milwaukee or festool because there are more 3rd party accessories The corded makita is still valuable. However the brushless 36 and 40v have better motors
Great video! I also been saying to myself I need to get one. I m a makita man too most my tools are and festool is just too much. What table saw do you have as I m not sure on the makita table saw fence. Wondered if you have one being a makita man as I m think of going for the Dewalt table saw due to the fence
Never used either and want one of each... but $$$. If I want to primarily build box centric furniture around the house (tables, storage, shelving etc) and want to use dado’s and rabbets as a way of jointing, would you still recommend the track saw? Great content btw!
Thanks James! Building box centric furniture is exactly what I do. I would recommend. My process is faster and more accurate now. For dados and rabbets, if you want to avoid the table saw, you could use a router and a shop made dado jig. I am planning on making one soon.
Great review. I feel the same way about trying to use my circular saw as a track saw. I can never get whatever I am cutting square. Doing a project now and spent an hour trying to get a cut measured and all set up, then cut it and it was off. Just like you, I added extra for just such an outcome and cut it true on my table saw. Still, it was a frustration and it got me re-thinking track saws. So now, corded or battery? Based on your comments, I'll probably go with the battery version. And yeah, I am a Makita fan too.
Back after 2 years. I would no longer buy corded DeWalt tools. They seem to have dropped all quality control for corded. Makita have maintained QC and even update their corded gear if technology warrants it. Read reviews from ten years ago then reviews from 3 or 4 years ago by people who loved what they bought ten years ago and tried replacing with same or similar product. I now realise that Festool is best for professionals due to their warranty support. But... Makita corded or me except Bosch angle grinders and Milwaukee cordless due to being on that platform based on a good deal on drill-driver combination a few years ago.
Did you consider the safety features of the Festool and Kreg (riving knife and anti kickback features) that Makita lacks when you were making your decision? I am completely new to woodworking and the prospect of kickback scares me.
I did consider them. From what I understand, you get kickback when cutting something like a hardwood that could have tension built into it. I mostly only cut plywood. With plywood being stable I’ve never experienced kickback from it. Also having the saw on a track keeps it really safe and impossible to wander off. I feel more safe with the tracksaw than with a circ or tables saw.
@@wittworks Thank you for such a quick reply. I hope to do some hardwood cutting as well as plywood. If you worked with hardwood do you think you would have chosen a different saw?
I cut walnut, oak, and pecan occasionally, but its usually across the grain and to square up table top ends. I'd still get the makita if doing lots of hardwoods. I have a moisture meter and mill only when its 4-6% moisture. If kickback was a big concern, you could cut, and after a few inches, put a space block shim in your cut to keep the cut off from closing in and binding the saw.
Support the plywood on both sides of the cut and kickback won’t happen. If cutting solid wood and it warps or moves while cutting you’ll feel it and stop, put a nail or wedge in the cut gap to hold it open and continue cutting. Kickback on a table saw is much more dangerous as the material can pinch between the blade and fence, so a riving knife really helps to prevent kickback there.
Full review: th-cam.com/video/ksmpyQ9JEiA/w-d-xo.htmlsi=gk3jp2M7Qw_9l8kr
I can help you maximize your track saw or trim router set-up 👉 wittworks.shop
I recently bought the 36v Makita track saw with the 55” track. Like you I also didn’t want to spend double for the Festool. I think you hit every reason why I went with Makita. Very nice video, great organization of content. Love my Makita Track Saw!
I just bought the makita , used it once and I’m sold ! The first track saw I used was a fest tool from wood craft in Houston at a wood working cabinet class . To break down ply wood for 3 cabinets . It took minutes to do this job with the fest tool track saw .
I used the Kreg accu cut , toon it back . Too much dust , not accurate.
Track saw , can’t go wrong ! Makita with the makita 55” track worked flawlessly. Not going back . Ordered the power Tec 110” track
Really like this guys modesty entertaining
I have the same tool - If I had to do it again, I'd go with the CORDED version again. Like you said... in the shop, with dust extraction attached, it really makes no sense to go battery - it's marketing trying to lock people into battery/tool systems. :)! Even if I went with the Festool version - it would be corded! Same way I choose my big router - corded. Trimmers, I'd maybe opt for a battery version (lot of the time use it without dust collection). Sander - ALL corded. Grinder (small), drills, impact, blowers - all cordless.
I agree. It also really depends on how much you value proper dust extraction. You can find so many videos online of people not using any dust extraction where it might be appropriate. It has already been clear for years that dust of hardwood in certain quantities is very bad for you (a cause of cancer), and for various years proof is coming out that soft wood can also have these effects. So for me, this dust extraction becomes quite important. And then it really it does not matter much to have a power cord attached to the saw as well. But not everyone thinks the same way about this or simply acts based on different information. I do get the point that if you're working outside much or at places where having power outlets near you all the time would make you choose a battery version. Simply nearly removing this option by choosing for a corded version is something to consider.
I had a Wen track saw (with the Powertec tracks) and it died on me last night. At first I thought it was the brushes, but they're intact and no amount of fiddling would resurrect it. I was cutting strips of MDF, so nothing demanding -- but the smell makes me think that the motor burned out. The bare saw only set me back about $100, but it's a great example of "buy once, cry once." The Makita is available refurbished (battery or corded) for around $330, sans track, so I'm upgrading. Fortunately, my old tracks are compatible. Thanks for the insights and the straightforward review!
Bro! That stinks about the Wen. But. Not surprised! Good find on the makita. I’ve never had any issues with it. Awesome to hear about the tracks!
Just got the Makita sp6000, and it is a joy to use compared to my old budget track saw. And even just with a regular shop vac hooked up to it, there was literally no dust! (I did 3D print a little cover to block off the blade change window). The stock blade supplied with the makita seems excellent too. My first project using it today was repurposing an oak table top - it’s about 30mm thick and an oak veneer over a man made core. The makita sailed through it and left a super clean cut with no chip out.
Really great production quality! It's clear you did your homework about lighting and audio recording. The b-roll is fantastic, and you took the time to do timestamps and chapter markers! Super impressive for a new channel. Not to mention that your opinion is well reasoned and effectively communicated!
Thank you Winston!
I've used the Festool, Makita and the Triton. Owned the Makita for almost 2 years now , use it regularly and it's still cutting perfect. Probably time to replace the rubber cut line on the rail soon. In my opinion the Makita is right up there with the Festool with it beating the Makita in only a few minute areas. The Triton work alright but was a beast weight wise! And my 118 inch rail was just under 200$ at a local tool distributor. You might be able to find a similar deal online. Although I have seen ridiculous shipping charges like you mentioned. Almost as much as the rail on some sites! Good review and enjoy!
Good to know! I’ve been looking for the 118 locally. No luck yet.
I have the Makita track saw and it’s outstandingly accurate and phenomenally easy to use. Wish I’d started off with it. It would have saved me a lot of time, money, and disappointment. My advice is to get one asap….
I'm subscribed to a TON of woodworkers, and you are one of my favorites. I wish I had found your channel when I first started out. I think some of the wisdom out there is outdated or slightly elitist in a way that actually doesn't serve new woodworkers. Your takes are insightful and informative in a way that few channels manage. Keep it up my dude.
Thank you! 😍
I think this was a very honest review on what this guy thought and that is the most one should expect from a review. Alternately, one could do a data based review which is just reading statistics. Although some data is needed to see if it has the physical capabilities and capacities, a reasonable review based on a reasonable man's experience is far better. To that end, I find this guy was refreshingly honest. You did well.......but as I stated, aluminum is for airplanes.......at least the shoe and all rails should be made of carbon fiber.
Thanks! I’d take carbon fiber….
My Makita is my second track saw. My first was a DeWalt. I had no issues with DeWalt's quality. Everything functioned as it should. I sold that saw and tracks and bought the Makita corded saw because the track is a clone of Festool's track. Most of the aftermarket accessories are made for Festool's track and are compatible with the Makita and Triton tracks. I went with the corded saw because I am heavily invested in Bosch battery tools and didn't want to add another battery platform to my shop.
That’s great! I was surprised to find out that makitas track was same at Festool. I’m glad they did that.
watched this and many other videos on track saws. Settled on the Makita then went back and forth between corded or batteries. The corded was available now and did not have to invest $200 in two new batteries. Arrived on Monday and started using it today. Works great clean cuts, nice and square. Now I need to invest in dust collection what a mess. No brainer replacement for my cheap task force table saw.
Ken, great to hear! You'll love it. And yes it makes a mess! But the cuts are clean and I feel safer and am more accurate!
Like the honesty and straight to the point opinion. I wanted a table saw but they scare the living shit out of me so next week i'm getting a track saw (not sure which one yet) as it just seems a lot safer and takes up a lot less space.
Thanks! The table saw scares me. I rarely use it now. Only for things I have to use it for. Track saw is easier, safer, and more accurate.
10:03 I don't mind the power cord at all. I already have to run a hose from my dust extractor to the saw. I just clip the cord to the hose and it doesn't get in the way. I'm already on Bosch and Ryobi battery systems and don't really want a third one.
I bought the corded version for a couple reasons:
1. It turns on the dust collection. I can plug it into my Bosch dust collector.
2. I'm a weekend woodworker, so want it to last. I've bought battery tools and eventually they go bad and / or the technology changes and then the tool is no longer good.
3. This is the only Makita tool I have, so if the batteries were dead I couldn't do anything.
There is a cool case that you can put 2 of the 55" tracks, clamps, and hardware which I also purchased.
One nice thing about Makita saw is that it is compatible with Festool and Powertec track. If you have the older Festool Systainers, the Makita MakPacs are compatible.
@@bigredracingdog466 apparently there’s non adjustable slop if you run the Makita on the Festool track.
@@juliancasey501 I'll check it out. I have used both Powertec and Makita rails with my Makita track saw without issues. I have a Festool LR32 rail I planned to use with my OF 1400 router.
I've had my corded Makita for about a year now, I've got the 118", 55" and 39" tacks and I use them all the time. probably my favorite tool in the shop, incredibly versatile and convenient. Cordless is next!
That’s awesome Francisco! I want the 118 so bad.
@@wittworks get it! My only regret is not getting it sooner
Joining two 55’s isn’t much fun.
@@wittworks this works like a charm:
betterleytools.com/products/straight-line-connector-for-aligning-track-saw-rails.html worth every penny
@@wittworks I bought multiple 55" tracks and a 118" track when Makita had them on sale, 2 for 1. I carry three 55" tracks with me all the time. I opened the 118" track to inspect it (it was nicely packed in crate) and then put it back and hung it from ceiling. I have never used it and noticed last week that the case is now warped from hanging. I was like you and figured I needed the 118" track. I wouldn't buy it today, it's too long and heavy and it's been more convenient to simply connect two 55" tracks than the get the 118" track down. Your experience may differ, but be cautious.
The tracksaw from Festool was one of my 5 first tools i bought. Never ever did i regret. The Makita seems to be almost as good or a bit better in some parts. But i personally recomend it more worth it than a tablesaw for beginners. Ofcourse it can't rip wooden planks/beams easily on center.
Agree with the track saw being better than a table saw for beginners. It makes things easy. Until you need to rip big things like you mentioned.
Disappointment of the bad quality lasts longer than the joy of the lower price . From what I see Makita is still in the top 4 plunge saw at the market . Now I'm on the way to buy the 40v cordless version just because the second most powerful saw out there has a wee bit of strange sinking motion I'm not familiar with but better track in my opinion .
I’m a self employed finish carpenter of 20 plus years. Up to about 2 years ago I was using a borla track and a home made zero clearance shoe on a dedicated saw for track saw purposes. Then I used a festool and it was so fast and accurate. I promised myself that the next built in job I got I’d get one and I got the battery Makita. I got it with a lot of accessories like all the tracks, ripping guides, accucut track square,extra blades,clamps. It was so worth the wait. I use it all the time. One thing I look forward to is that you can run the festool blades on it wich are double the thickness which makes them stiffer so no saw scar. I just got the rocklar hose and tool hookups and look forward to trying that out as well as I see makita has made a dust extractor recently and that will be sweet to use. Looking forward to see if it’s a good value compared to festools dust extractors.
I'd recommend a track saw plus a miter for people getting started. If you are really price conscious, I've used the Wen track saw and thought it was pretty good.
Great video and review! I agree with the logic and competitive observations. I've had the corded Makita saw since 2015 in my shop, with consistent and excellent results. I work in one place, and dust collection is very important to me, too.
I think your more recent review review of Makitas' 3 current options ( Corded, 36v, 40v) really brought it home for me. Problem for me is we are downsizing, and moving to a place that has a full WW shop. So, in prep for the move, I've just sold off my whole shop!!. So now I am in SEVERE shop withdrawal!!!!!
So, I have just ordered a new Makita track saw, and am sticking with the corded version. The battery operated saws don't have the connectivity I want.
Thanks for your perspective!
Thank you Gerry! Congrats on the new shop!
Good info on the Makita. I have been comparing the Mikita to the Kreg. Two items the Kreg has over the Makita, a riving knife and also guides at the end of the track to guide the dust hose and power code. Wish someone would do a comparison between the two, but haven’t seen anything. Only comparison’s to the Festool.
Mmmm….you got a good idea there….
I agree with you reasoning and analysis. I happened to have bought the same saw about 7 years ago or so, 2 55" tracks, and use Festool accesories because there are at least 4 Festool dealers and zero Makita track saw dealers in my area. Were I to do it again, I'd buy the battery model if I already had Makita batteries. That Festool track compatibility is huge. The Shopfox/Grizzly models (which from other sources are okay, but not as good as the Makita), DeWalt, and Maffel (beast and very expensive) aren't. That means 3rd party accessories like TSO Tools products which keep coming up as the go to brand for price/performance value.
I bought the Makita track bag to keep the tracks safe betwen use and worth every penny.
Thanks Tom!
I deliberated for a long time about which to get and was very close to picking up the Makita but I finally went with the corded Bosch GKT55GCE, delivered today actually. It's going to be a real game changer for me.
that's great! I havent seen the Bosch in person, only in videos. They seem to be excellent.
is it better than festool?
@@spawnfinity i've not used the Festool so can only comment on the Bosch, which has been excellent. It's done everything I've needed it to effortlessly from cutting up sheet goods to trimming doors.
I really enjoyed your video, and liked how candid you were. Particularly enjoyed the bit how you would inch up to right size of your cut, but with the track saw, it is always spot on. I have been on the fence between a circular saw and a track saw, but seeing the safety of a the plunge feature, gives the track saw another advantage.
Thank you Bill. You’re very kind. I have the track saw, a corded ridgid circ, and a battery makita circ. I never use the circulars because I never really do “rough” work. Mostly plywood work or trimming ends of panels. Hope you get one soon!
If you're dragging around a dust collection hose anyway, why go cordless, especially given the price premium? I can see it for drill/drivers, recip saws, and even routers; but for anything I'm hooking up to my vacuum--saw, sander, planer, etc.--cordless doesn't give you anything but emptier pockets and more weight.
That's exactly my take. The other issue is switching the dust collector on and off, with a corded unit it's simple, just use the outlet on the vacuum. With a battery tool you have to start messing about with bluetooth or special remotes, otherwise you are constantly reaching to switch the vacuum, which defeats the convenience of cordless.
i got the Makita SP6000 as well but was looking at the Dewalt as well. I think the problem with the Dewalt is many of the accessories for the festool fit the Makita rail but not the bosch/Mafell or dewalt which is kind of a big negative for me.
Used the Makita to cut solid oak 35mm doors with a bench dogs rail square which was awesome. Did find the saw struggled on the wider 40mm doors and had to do those in two cuts. Would recommend getting a rail square as its much faster to get 90 degrees cuts.
Just bought parallel guides which I am waiting to come through which I am hoping will make building cabinets even faster :-)
I also don't regret buying the SP6000. Not really interested in the cordless version as need to plug in the vacuum anyways plus is less powerful for doing things like solid 40mm oak doors :-) I don't have a table saw and have no plans to get one with the track saw.
Thank you James. I just got the TSO rail square and am working on a video for that!
I'm a bit of a Makita fanboi. I've never been disappointed with their tools. The track saw is life-changing and the battery version is perfect, even in the garage, not having to worry about trailing leads just makes things so much less hassle. I've not used my circular saw once in the last 5 years. Just drop the track where you want to cut, plonk the saw on and off you go with a perfect cut. Heaven!
Ditto!
You are by far one of the most enjoyable TH-cam carpenter guys I subscribe to. I could go on but won't. You are doing it right. I hope your subscriber numbers grow significantly.
I enjoyed and got value out of your presentation. I would like to add a comment: I generally do not have a problem with getting acceptable results using a circular saw. In fact I had previously thought track saws were kind of a waste of money. However I just ordered a Makita. The main reason I want a track saw, if for no other reason, is dust control. And a lot of reviews I’ve seen rate the Makita number 1 8:52 track saw.
Thanks! The more I use it dust control is number 1.
Thank you for making this great video! It has helped me make my decision. I'm going corded because I always use my dust collector (it is on a sensor like yours.) The rationale for the corded version is that my vacuum is corded, and I have it out already. Very informative, thank you for sharing your experiences!
Thank you George. I had the same rationale! You’ll love it.
@@wittworks I just found out, Makita makes the cordless saw with wireless connectivity to the Makita vacuum (which, I do not have.) Model xps02zu But maybe there is a sensor which receives the Bluetooth signal???
mind blown.
@@george1gall Makita sell a plug in Bluetooth adapter that turns a non Makita vac into one that is compatible with Makita aws capable saws.
I tested it in my last video. It’s $$$$$
Hey! Just wanted to let you know that I gave 2x 55" tracks + connector blocks a go, and it was a no go for me. In the end i went and got the 118" track instead. The problem was that the connecting blocks fix the two tracks by expanding along the vertical (hope you follow:) instead of horizontal. If they tightened along the horizontal axes they would probably align the tracks properly together. However since they tighten along the vertical they do nothing to align the tracks, therefor the track alignment is dependent on them being square at the ends, which none of my were. I will attempt to file it down just for that occasion when i want to connect the 118" and the 55" together :)
Thanks! Makes sense. I’ve seen some people take the rails and give them a fresh cut to make them square, but I agree on the design flaw. I’m saving up for a 118 still. 👀
@@wittworks hey! I had to split up a bunch of 2" oak for a 3m (118") table top, and they were so rough and my table saw too small to docthis in any safe manner on the tablesaw. So i did it with the track saw. I also got an 18" festool blade that worked wonders (festool was easier to come by quickly). The original 56 tooth blade cannot be used to split 2" oak. You will just ruin the blade. The batteries didnt last for very long, but hey, its a monster rip after a monster rip. But the power was def sufficient! Thanks foe your video!
I could do the full 2" rip in one pass, but i decided to go in 2
Smart
Try using the TSO connectors. They clamp to the sides of the channels with a small dovetail shape. Mine work like a charm.
I have a Grizzly that I bought used from a contractor. It was a little beat up, but it runs good. It has a riving knife which is a plus. Both my tracks are slightly bowed and now I am missing a bolt to lock the tilt so I wanted to buy a new cordless track saw, but the makita and festool are a 3-5 month wait. If I like it I might buy the cordless one for the work van.
You should get the new makita 40v they comes out in January. They’re available on toolnut
I got the same saw as a birthday gift from my legendary brother. I had the same issue with a home “track” and other guides. It’s just taken the user error away.
I believe they make a sleeve you can snake the cord and dust collection hose together and it also stops the hose from catching on your work
Thanks Don. I just 3d printed some clips that clip on the hose and keep the cord tight to it. Game changer. Well not really. But it is nice. :)
I just ordered the 36v makita track saw with the 55” rail. I wanted battery for when I do house projects and don’t want cords laying everywhere but when I’m in the shop doing projects I wish there was a way to make the cordless saws auto start a vacuum or dust collector like you can do with corded versions can do with a automated switch.
Yeah that’s main issue. Makita has an AWS enabled 36v. If you buy a makita vacuum with AWS they will talk. If you have a different vacuum they make an adapter for $180 (!!!!) that will pretend to be a plug in tool.
@@wittworks I did not know that! Back to google I go lol thank you
Plunge saw are the dogs. Even though mine is a cheap one it's made a big difference to my work process.
Parallel guides are incredibly handy for breaking down sheet material.
Benchdogs make them and an excellent fence system designed for MFT tables. But I'd imagine it would not be cheap shipping state side.
I have seen the TSO and Woodpecker version of those parallel guides. They kind of intimidate me! Do you have the bench dog rail square?
@@wittworks No, as yet I haven't felt I needed it.
I’ve. Always been pretty good with circular saw. Years ago I made a big shoe plate to rip 45s into 14’ cedar 1by12 making a box beam.
If or when I get to a project requiring a track saw I will definitely go with Makita “battery model”. After personal experiences with Milwaukee, Dewalt, Ridgid and others all my portables are Makita 18v . -No experience with Festool and the amount of use vs investment wouldn’t pay me to go that route -
On a side note though - my 3hp Triton router mounted in a table is fantastic with its above table micro adjust. I believe other mfgs “Bosch” ...are doing that too but not sure.
Thank you Ralph! All my portables are M 18v too. Too good to pass up. And I agree about the use vs investment with Festool.
I have many Kreg products and consider it a great brand. The only product I regret buying is the Accu-Cut. After careful setup, and making sure the two halves were perfectly straight, it still failed. The traveler has a lot of slop in it and this caused my Milwaukee saw to wander into the zero clearance strip (after the initial trimming cut). After I ruined the first strip I went to the internet to see if I could solve the problem. I seemed that I wasn't doing anything wrong with my setup. After careful checking I trimmed the second side.....and ruined it too. I'm now looking to gift the Accu-Cut to someone willing to buy fresh zero clearance strips and try their luck. I'm leaning toward buying the Makita corded. With my luck Milwaukee will come out with one 91 days after I buy the Makita. LOL!
I feared that experience with the Accu-Cut! You'd love the Makita. And you're right. Milwaukee is waiting for you to buy it...its just how it works! I am really surprised they don't have one yet...
I feel your pain... I also thought, " I dont need a tracksaw that often, and don't want to spend a whole lot of $$ on one", so I got the Kreg Accu-cut ...And came to regret it.. That thing just sucks. I now am waiting for the Makita I ordered to be delivered.. Love Kreg's pocket hole system though
Same!
@@wittworks So, I just received my Makita, had to try it rightaway of course... This thing is everything one can ask for... Cut trough 2in elm like butter, cut clean and straight as an arrow. Makes me mad when I look back and think of my struggles with the accu(not)-cut....
It’s a beauty!
Very convincing points, honest experience, and actual to me, thanks! Makita corded is right down my alley.
You’re kind. Thank you.
I've been use makita for 3 years and no regrets for buying it.
Just looked up the 118" track. I just got my Makita tracksaw delievered today. Anyway i found the track on amazon through Toolmarts, $290 free shipping, not including taxes. Add about $24 for shipping. But delievery wont be til mid-Sept. Too much for me at the moment but hopefully you see this and you can get it. About $100 less than usual!
Wow! That’s cheaper, but still $$$$$$
I know!!! That rail would cost more than my saw. Got a factory rebuild w/2 year warrantee. Only $250, w/o track 😒😒😒
I just ordered one of these. The one I bought comes with the 118" track instead of the 55". Was only $100 CAD more the 55" set. I'll probably buy a 55" once I get tired of the size but I'm really excited about the ability to rip a full 8' sheet.
Where did you get it from?
@@webtheweb Federated Tool out of London Ontario.
I am going down the track saw rabbit hole. I just got a corded Makita circular saw and I am happy with it. I have a garage shop so having corded tools to me is ok. I was at Home Depot and was looking at jig saws. Everything is going battery but they sell the tools with no battery. Your other video on corded vs battery Makita forgot one thing the charger. So back at Home Depot the rigid battery was 150 dollars plus you have to buy the tool then the charger. I think they don't sell Complete tools as the price would be way up there. Also thought of the battery tools as I have not thought of it before. I have Riobi hand vacuum and a leaf blower, a Ridged kit that had drill, driver and circular saw, Dewalt drill and Black and Decker weed eater. Now I have to have a place for all these chargers and batteries and electrical outlets to support them. I don't have that problem with corded tools. Just unplug and wind up the cord. Always have power and no dead battery when you need the tool. Yes it is a pain to unroll an extension cord, but once out I just switch tools. I have the Kreg Act Rip the one that slides down the side of your sheet goods. Looking at the Kreg track that uses a circular saw as it has the same base as the one I have. Sorry for the long post, I am a talker and I guess get carried away. Your videos have given me more things think about . Thanks.
That’s great! I still prefer my corded makita. I have the wen, kreg, master force, and Ryobi. I’ll buy the Milwaukee when it comes out.
Corded is way more powerful and safer. It's easy to forget a cordless saw is powered.
I was exactly where you were, but since I already had a couple of makita batteries I opted for the cordless makita. I now have 3 tracks too and I'm about to get some parallel guides and the rail square for those. From all the reviews I've seen the makita is pretty much a cheaper festool clone.
Yep! Just minus the riving knife. You going to go TSO?
Your video is a good unbiased view of the Makita plunge saw. I wonder why you didn't mention the spacer adjuster for maintaining nil clearance; the fact that it comes with a Makita factory blade which may be good or not so good quality; the anti-tipping device, and the scoring feature. Maybe I missed them in your video?? Great presentation also!! Cheers from Queensland Australia.
Thank you. I saved those for part 2 🤣
Hey Witt, BTW this video was the reason why I bought my Makita Saw :-) This Video is better than the promotional video from Makita....
🥰 what?! Can you tell them so they’ll sponsor the channel?!
Thank you!
I’m still kicking myself for not buying the battery version
@@wittworksYap.! what should I say, sometimes I think to myself, why I cose the Battery version? I thnk the cable version has more power, but I can´t say it for sure. However, this type of saws is the best.
thanks for the honest review.......I am looking to buy my first track saw with the Makita version attracting my attention also (price, quality and reliability).
BTW, I love my Makita products too 😉
Excellent work in this video man. I ordered mine and now I'm just waiting. Just subscribed!
Thank you Taylor!
I'm on the dewalt platform but decided to buy the makita battery track saw since it is much better. Bought it a week ago but used it for the first time today. Cuts were not good. Figured out the base plate is warped!! Not happy.
Ned, oh my! I haven’t heard of a warped base. Hopefully you can exchange it? Mine is flat.
@@wittworks I did get the extra insurance, I never do that usually but since I've never owned a track saw before I thought it would be a good idea. But even without that they would have to exchange it since it'll be returned before 30 days of purchase.
Got the Makita 18x2 volt saw kit on Amazon for 500 all in. I figured for the saw, 2 4amp batteries and the makpak boxes, it was a decent deal.
Very good deal! Dang!
Nice video and good production. I can confirm the cordless Makita is the way to go. I have not wanted for power or capacity. I will disagree with the assessment of the 39" track. I started with the 2-55" tracks which worked fine for cutting down sheet goods. I added the 39" track when I was doing a stair remodel in the house. This track is extremely handy to use the saw for shorter cuts like cutting skirt boards and invaluable for cutting stair treads (along with the Collins tread template). I keep the 39" track hanging conveniently in my shop and find I am grabbing for it quite often to make small cuts in boards which may be difficult to take to the miter or table saw. I picked up the 118" track earlier this year and am now well set. Having this selection makes extremely quick work of cutting down full sheets for projects. I got very good results joining the 55" sections but always had to separate and rejoin them when I needed to cut across a sheet. No more, I can grab the length necessary and cut. Now, I am contemplating cutting down one of my 55" tracks to use in situations where the 39" track was more than I need. It is good to have options.
That’s great George! Now you have me wanting a 39”…
Where did you get your 118”?
Did you see Makita’s new one battery 40v coming out soon? 🤤
Any tips on accurately cutting the first and last 3-4” of rubber on the guide rails so the saw does not come of the track and ruin/miscut the rubber?
I will brainstorm…not sure there is an accurate way without buying another track. I though if borrowing my friends…but his was off a little
@@wittworks - 2 tracks really sounds like the only way to get the rubber cut. Having a track saw and rails is not only about ease but also accuracy. So even with the high cost the 118” rail is a must for me soon. Putting 2 tracks together to rip full sheets would work decent but what about things more important than plywood? That’s when a 118” rail comes into play. Plus I guess we need 2 tracks in order to get the rubber trimmed equally front to back so why not just do it right the first time.
I am going to copy and paste your comment in a text to my wife when she asks me to justify the purchase of the 118” 😬
I've used the Bora track for a few years with the same Ridgid saw you held up. Time to move to a proper track saw since I'm about to replace our kitchen cabinets. Thanks for sharing your experiences.
Thank you Jay. Yes, a proper track saw is in a different league, especially when you need precision on things like cabinets. Maybe not if doing rough construction...hope you find a good one you like. Let me know which one you settle on.
@@wittworks agreed. I'll let you know what direction I go in.
Makita 40v Track 😉
There are ways around the lack of riving knife, so its not a dealbreaker. I love the festoon though.
Between the two, for a professional, its preference imo. You'll make that money back with both and you'll be productive with both.
I had the Kreg track and used it with a Bosch circular saw. Hated it! Using the Kreg was the thing that pushed me to a proper track and plunge saw.
BTW Festool owns Makita or Makita owns Festool. Not sure which is the parent company.
I cringe every time I see someone using the accu cut and bragging about it.
You did right .. makita great choice
I'm late to comment but watch out with the Makita rail, the two neoprene 'grip' strips are quite far away from the cutting edge. I'm a fairly inexperienced track saw user and had kick back when trying to trim a thin side of a plywood piece down to size. The bit that was under the track was narrow enough not to reach the gripper strips and I mustn't have had it supported/ clamped down enough (it wasn't clamped) so it was able to move.
This was a plunge cut and I was leaning over the saw to see where to stop, so was possibly applying pressure that skewed the saw as I did this (that's another downside of all track saws apart from the Kreg, they all cut on the side most people can't see). It was pretty scary, happened instantly and cut a limp out of the plywood and a big gouge out of my track.
Lessons....
1) Don't _ever_ put your fingers anywhere near the track when cutting
2) Clamp the piece you're cutting (as you said you do)
3) Use both hands on the saw (as you said you do)
4) Think about any pressure you're putting on the saw as you do the cut.
5) If you need to mark where to start/stop put it on the rail where you can see it.
I hope this helps someone avoid injury.
I should haave said, this was an Erbauer saw (Screwfix in the UK own brand) on a makita track, the erbauer comes with 2* 700mm (~ 2') tracks, I wanted a single 1.5m track so bought the Makita.
Nial, thanks for the info. That’s pretty scary. I agree that the best practices are to have two hands on the saw, don't apply pressure other than pushing forward, clamp everything down, and have the track fully supported. For small pieces, i think its safer to take them to the table saw.
@@wittworks I haven't got a table saw, or band saw. I wonder if 'safety' is leverage to get them approved by the wife :-) . I think I could probably do the cut safely but I'd have supporting material (same plywood) clamped all round the piece in question so that it couldn't shift during the cut. A scary thing to happen but I've got a lot more respect for the saw now which isn't a bad thing, lesson hopefully learnt.
True! A $500 TS is cheaper than a new finger!
I’ve got the Kreg Accucut, that’s why I’m looking for a track saw. It’s better than using a straight edge but not by much. Too much slop between the sled and the track, plus your circular saw is tied up with the sled mounted on it.
i just nabbed one of these off fb marketplace for 350 with everything including the track. stoked. previous owner had it for a few months but claims he wasnt using it because he had transitioned to using a table saw........ even the factory blade still looks decent because he only used it cut PVC for cabinets.
I'm going to return the accu-cut to homedepot, making my net cost for this purchase 250$. regardless of what brand you fanboy, at that price it's a no-brainer to me.
I have the Kreg accucut (sp?) system and it does not work well for me with the saw I have. Especially for sheet goods when making long cuts - it has never cut straight.
$339! That is inexplicable! I went through the same process. almost did the Kreg but it was always on back order. I did go with the corded knowing I could update to the cordless version in the future. I did not find great reviews on the Dewalt. I love the Makita even though mine is made in China. I'd rather have one made in Japan. Is wha it is. I had the same concern regarding the cordless not being powerful enough. My final reason for getting the Makita was the availability of the long track.
Good stuff!
Good choice. Bought one a few years ago and have zero regrets. Also have the Festool corded version but I just like the Makita better. I’ve tried DIY route but honestly there’s absolutely no comparison. People saying you can just make a DIY has obviously never used a real track saw.
Nothing like the real thing! Interesting you like the makita over festool
@@wittworks Well one is because the Makita is the cordless version. Two it’s just a nicer saw IMO and Makita has the lock to lock saw on track for 45 degree cuts to prevent accidental tilting during critical 45 degree cuts.
A lot of people wish it had the riving knife. Doesn’t bother me. You?
@@wittworks Honestly it doesn’t bother me one bit. Besides not having it allows me to make plunge cuts. I think people will complain about any and every little thing nowadays.
I’ve never been in a situation where I needed it. I like the plunge better.
I have the Festool track saw and mostly cut hardwood. I cut a lot of hardwood breaking down large rough cut boards and I am very disappointed in the power of the motor. The Festool motor will start to overheat and go into a slow safety mode if you cut hardwood anywhere near as fast as you would cut with any corded skilsaw.
For my purposes I would be most interested in knowing what track saw can cut as fast as a skill saw, thereby allowing me to break down rough cut boards twice as fast as my Festool tracksaw.
I’ve heard that a lot from the Festool users. I used the makita on 6/4 rough walnut two weeks ago and it didn’t slow down or burn. I was impressed.
@@wittworks thanks for the reply. I will check out the Makita track saw. Time is money and while the Festool track saw gives me outstanding quality it takes twice as long because I have to cut slowly.
I also use a cmt blade in mine. Not sure if that helps. It’s a thin kerf
I purchased the grizzly track saw and returned it as soon as I opened the box. The quality was not up to grizzly standards. The materials were cheap and the supports holding the motor and blade would flex as soon as pressure was applied. The joint that allows the plunging feature to occur was loose and rocked back and forth.
I have a feastool 750 I dropped it 4’ off the ground broke around the side of blade now dust extraction not working great kind of pissed
Im really weighing - battery allowing me to take cuts outside easily
- corded cheaper and not having to switch on and off the vac for every cut when I’m in the shop… tough call.
Could I get both? 😅
The problem with the Accu-cut is the amount of blue strip left after setting it up using a Mikita 7 inch saw it leaves barely anything of the blue strip
Thanks for sharing. So many people I hear from don’t like the Accu-cut
@@wittworks it's actually really close to the metal track too so all it takes is a slight bit of movement and you are cutting into the the metal track and I've set it up 3 times now just to make sure as a friend had some spare blue strips its way to close.
Yikes!
Milwaukee, DeWalt, and Makita! The triple threat of tools. Usually pretty cheap or affordable, powerful, and in stock in stores, no need to order and wait unless there is a great deal online.
I have the cordless version. The tool is absolutely amazing. I bought a cheap off brand track saw first. And the thing fell apart. This makita has been amazing.
Keith, thank you for sharing your experience! I wish I got the cordless version!
@@wittworks np like the channel so far. Home depot had a one day sale on them that was pretty good so I jumped on it
Dude I have to pay 598 euros for the Makita tracksaw here in IRELAND.. How is it that u get all that gear for 339 dollars?? Tools are so bloody expensive over here man.. I really want to get the Makita track saw bcos I've heard they're really great my friend.. Great video but I really would've liked to see u doing some real work with it..
I loved hearing how precise the Makita and what u said about not using ur table saw as much anymore either was good to hear too..
Now the just under 600 euros for the Makita Track saw I want here in IRELAND comes with 2 tracks which is probably why it's so expensive but that's a huge hike in price for one extra track bro.. Jeez the cost of tools today is maddening.. Great video my friend and I will defo be thinking about getting the Makita Track saw now bcos I was thinking of buyong a Cast Iron table saw but they're very expensive to say the least so this Makita on ur recommendation is where I will go. Thanks man and take care..
Have the corded as well. Vey happy with it. Once problem I am having is the replaceable strip. After the initial cut it is nice and clean but as I use the saw more it gets chewed up and jagged. I am sure it is an operator issue but I can't figure out what I am doing wrong? Any suggestions? Really enjoy your content, thank you.
Extensions for the tracks have flex and never line up no matter how tight the screws get
That’s been my experience
I don't like the way the dewalt saw plunged Makita is the best track saw for the money. I have a festool and a cordless Makita xsh08z that fits on the track
Hi there. Thanks for the great video. A little help, maybe? How to put two 55"s together in an accurate straight line?
I constantly get about 1mm deviation when ripping 8x4 on the long edge and it's frustrating. Any ideas?
Very nice review. I wonder why no considering of the Bosch track saws?
Thanks. My thoughts are they’re more expensive. But they aren’t very popular which is surprising to me as well.
I use Triton track saw love it. It was in my budget.
That’s awesome! I’ve never seen one in person but they look beefy and legit…as most triton tools do.
Thanks, Great video. Hoping to get the makita but i may only be able to get a Dewalt locally
Hi thanks for your review. I will go with your choice however what kind of blade do you recommend for plywood and hard wood ? I appreciate your advice.
I prefer the CMT blades with a high tooth count (40 or up) for plywood.
I have the Grizzly track saw, All I can say is it works for the money, looking past it, thinking of the Makita.
Great video, I’ve had the marital track saw for years now and it one of my favorite tools. I was wondering what vacuum hose you are using? Is that connected to a shop vac or a dust collector?
Thanks Joe! It's my favorite also! Here's a link to the cheap hose I got on amazon: amzn.to/3bLUb4P
I hook it up to my shop vac instead of my big dust collector.
I also mentioned it in this video: th-cam.com/video/pCRdK8ZFGq0/w-d-xo.html
is your wife still in one piece? 😉
Hi @wittworks! I recently purchased a Makita SP6000j for a woodworking project in my laundry room. Could you recommend the best blade for cutting through a high-pressure laminate benchtop? I'm aiming for the cleanest cut possible.
Best regards,
Frans
12:11 I don't think I'd ever need a riving knife on my track saw. If using track saw, i want the best quality, i would support my material all the way, it'd worth getting some sacrificial material beneath it. Else, i'd use my circular saw.
I use that rigid foam insulation (usually pink or green colored) you can get at home centers. A full 4x8 2” thick sheet isn’t cheap but it’ll last for literally hundreds of cuts, and it almost completely eliminates tearout.
Once my 3/4” one is done I’m going to get the 2”
Hi. Have you ever put a straight edge against your cut to see if there is any day light between the straight edge and the piece you cut ? I appreciate your input. Thanks.
Looking at getting a Makita track saw for the shop. At this time, I do not have any other Makita tools. Should I just go corded or just go cordless? If I go corded, 36v or wait for the 40v to come out next month or early January?
Thanks!
I am happy with my corded (and I almost always use a dust hose anyway). I also have makita cordless stuff too. I think the new 40v is a bigger blade at 7ish”. I guess it would depend on what you’d cut most of the time. I do plywood mostly and don’t need a “regular” size circ blade. I think you’d be happy with any.
I think I would prefer the Makita over the Kreg, but the ACS table seems so useful. Does Makita have a similar setup? Are they compatible?
Hey brother, I’m primarily a handtool woodworker and have officially listed my table saw on FB marketplace to sell because all uses can be done by hand or… with a track saw. I’m going to purchase a track saw May 1st… do your conclusions still hold for the Makita? I’m torn between the Makita and the Bosch. I know so can save some money with the Makita and I don’t have any need for cordless really aside from simple ease of use. I will use primarily lumber prep, cutting bevels on rare occasions and then home uses (out home is a big 126 year old hole in the ground you pour money and time into 😂❤). Thoughts?
I'm still a makita guy! Never used bosch, but I do know they're not very popular. I'd go makita or Milwaukee or festool because there are more 3rd party accessories
The corded makita is still valuable. However the brushless 36 and 40v have better motors
Great video! I also been saying to myself I need to get one. I m a makita man too most my tools are and festool is just too much.
What table saw do you have as I m not sure on the makita table saw fence. Wondered if you have one being a makita man as I m think of going for the Dewalt table saw due to the fence
Never used either and want one of each... but $$$. If I want to primarily build box centric furniture around the house (tables, storage, shelving etc) and want to use dado’s and rabbets as a way of jointing, would you still recommend the track saw? Great content btw!
Thanks James! Building box centric furniture is exactly what I do. I would recommend. My process is faster and more accurate now. For dados and rabbets, if you want to avoid the table saw, you could use a router and a shop made dado jig. I am planning on making one soon.
@@wittworks thanks so much for the reply! Yeah great thinking about the router totally forgot about that!
Makita make a base for a few of their routers that use this track, so you can do the dados and rabbets using a router. It’s about $60.
I got the cordless and love it.
Courtney, I’m jealous! Good decision!
I have the Kreg. The saw doesn’t clamp securely to the base. Don’t waste money on the Kreg track saw.
I got the kreg and circular saw.
And now im shopping for a tracksaw.
Buy cheap buy twice.
Excellent review!
Thank you
Thank you Jorge
Great review. I feel the same way about trying to use my circular saw as a track saw. I can never get whatever I am cutting square. Doing a project now and spent an hour trying to get a cut measured and all set up, then cut it and it was off. Just like you, I added extra for just such an outcome and cut it true on my table saw. Still, it was a frustration and it got me re-thinking track saws. So now, corded or battery? Based on your comments, I'll probably go with the battery version. And yeah, I am a Makita fan too.
I would buy the battery if I could do it again.
why do you regret getting corded if you are connected to shop vac anyway, with cordless you lose auto start and you are still hooked up?
Back after 2 years. I would no longer buy corded DeWalt tools. They seem to have dropped all quality control for corded. Makita have maintained QC and even update their corded gear if technology warrants it. Read reviews from ten years ago then reviews from 3 or 4 years ago by people who loved what they bought ten years ago and tried replacing with same or similar product. I now realise that Festool is best for professionals due to their warranty support. But... Makita corded or me except Bosch angle grinders and Milwaukee cordless due to being on that platform based on a good deal on drill-driver combination a few years ago.
Did you consider the safety features of the Festool and Kreg (riving knife and anti kickback features) that Makita lacks when you were making your decision? I am completely new to woodworking and the prospect of kickback scares me.
I did consider them. From what I understand, you get kickback when cutting something like a hardwood that could have tension built into it. I mostly only cut plywood. With plywood being stable I’ve never experienced kickback from it. Also having the saw on a track keeps it really safe and impossible to wander off. I feel more safe with the tracksaw than with a circ or tables saw.
@@wittworks Thank you for such a quick reply. I hope to do some hardwood cutting as well as plywood. If you worked with hardwood do you think you would have chosen a different saw?
I cut walnut, oak, and pecan occasionally, but its usually across the grain and to square up table top ends. I'd still get the makita if doing lots of hardwoods. I have a moisture meter and mill only when its 4-6% moisture. If kickback was a big concern, you could cut, and after a few inches, put a space block shim in your cut to keep the cut off from closing in and binding the saw.
Support the plywood on both sides of the cut and kickback won’t happen. If cutting solid wood and it warps or moves while cutting you’ll feel it and stop, put a nail or wedge in the cut gap to hold it open and continue cutting. Kickback on a table saw is much more dangerous as the material can pinch between the blade and fence, so a riving knife really helps to prevent kickback there.
Agreed.
Is there anyway you can adapt the Makita to use the Bosch track?