Amazon item list for these wings - www.amazon.com/shop/insider_carpentry?listId=10C6PZNXUK3N3&ref=idea_share_inf Combo Miter T Track - amzn.to/2KJBZZC Support Leg Stand - amzn.to/2vvGzps T-Track for Crown Jigs - amzn.to/2AUPg1F 1/2" Magnetic Tape - amzn.to/2OkKPPu Knobs and Bolts - amzn.to/2vvGQsu Left to Right Adhesive Tape - amzn.to/2KE1lb9 Right to Left Adhesive Tape - amzn.to/2vpzref Dewalt DWS780 12 inch Miter Saw - amzn.to/2Z5BP9K FS Tool LM6300 MITER JOINT SAW BLADE (ATB) 12 Inch X 100T, 1″ Bore - amzn.to/2Z4VzKD Dewalt Miter Saw Stand - amzn.to/2T6lSfH Dewalt Stand Mounting Brackets - amzn.to/2ZbkZ98 Fast Cap Best Fence Material Stop - www.fastcap.com/product/best-fence-stop?cat=300
How about using a hollow core door as your start for the wings? Cut to width.....reinsert a solid edge to attach t track to. This may not be condusive to the t track in the surface for the crown stop and jig. Just spitballing
Great set up. Still framing custom homes 35 yrs. I’ve never seen a set up like that from any other finish guy. They usually have piles of stock on the floor. Everyone uses dewalt tools, but they just use roller extensions to hold stock up. You should be proud of yourself, you definitely a professional finish carpenter.👍🇺🇸
For the weight drill a bunch of bench dog holes, i drilled about 100 holes per wing and it lightened it up and it’s very useful for clamping down material for sanding, routing...
My dad was a finish carpenter, he would have been proud of you. It's hard to find a carpenter that takes pride in their work the way you do. I wish you lived in our area, I would hire you to do all of the wood work I usually do because I can not stand the wood butchers that do remodel work in my area.
There’s a understatement! 😂. Yeah, he is good… if not the best in most aspects his workflow and the attention he places on workflow, detail and precision are imho the best I have seen in my 37 yrs of construction.
Great ideas that I will incorporate into my work. Just a note: I use two stains, put them together end to end and connect my saw to both of them. Gives me great support for long pieces. Maybe eliminating the need for end supports.
Spencer for over 20 years I have used a single 5/8" t-nut mounted on my saw and a thumb screw (knob might be better if you have room underneath) inserted through the extension wing end. It has worked flawless, no slop left and right. You can also drill additional holes on the wings for the thumb screw/knob, to adjust the wings forwards or backwards. My wings are about the same depth and I actually prefer the wings slid backwards more, so I can have one stack of material (or tools) behind the fence. When I do skirt boards I move them forward so there's more support out front. I'm in the middle of redoing my entire van buildout and need to redo my saw station at the same time so everything packs away just right. I use a small 10' cutaway van with a lightweight homemade ramp (that will be stored in a closet behind my cabinets). I'm switching from a foldable stand I've used for over 3 decades to a fixed cabinet on wheels with the saw permanently mounted on it. I'm getting too old (60 now) to be lifting all that stuff constantly. The cabinet will be on 10" pneumatic wheels (necessary to roll up into the van). My ramp is fairly steep, more so than yours probably. I plan on having short extension wings hinged to the cabinet that fold up for smaller jobs. (I do a lot of remodeling, and don't always need the long extensions anymore). Then when I need the longer wings for base, casing, stairs or crown, I can mount the second set of wings to the fold up wings. This I hope will reduce the size/footprint and weight of my long wings. Again getting too old for this heavy lifting with a bad shoulder now, plus with only a small 10' box I need it as compacted as possible. You have giving me MANY ideas and excellent suggestions threw your videos. I hope maybe some of this could be useful to you or others out there.
Just want to make a couple of clarifications. I said 5/8" thumb screw, that is incorrect. I meant 5/16" and the wings also rest on a 1/2" ledge that helps prevents the twisting and help carry the load. Also, the t-nut (or insert) is mounted to a small wooden extension (about 7" wide) up against the saw, not in the saw itself. There is a huge advantage in mounting the main extension wings to a small extension (about 6 to 8" wide) that is permanently mounted to the bench rather than to the saw itself. It makes your long extensions 6 to 8" shorter while giving you the same cut compacity. I mention this because that difference may be just enough for you to be able store your extension vertically against the wall like you would prefer.
Thank you again, Spencer. I'm now in a position to start making the wings happen for my own setup. Just got a RAM Promaster and I'm setting that sucker up to do things right!
You are a life changer brother. I've been searching for a good saw stand for when im trimming houses and found your video. I made the exact same set up but did some things differently. I watch several times and listed to the pros and con and for the attachment to the saw I used a z bar picture hanger, I had to router out a 1/4 out of the wing itself where i attached the hanger so it fit tight to the saw which turned out pretty good I have just about a 1/16" gap which im happy with and for the legs I used the same plywood like you have but I used foldable self locking hinges so the legs are very sturdy and folds neatly under the wing for storage plus tbe hinges once it is closed you have to press the release to open and close it so its just awesome. I bought these on Amazon. Also to solve the back and forth rocking I drilled and installed 2 ball point screws underneath the wings to go through to the hanger where I drill holes so the balls can slide into, it fits very tight on the saw, to detach the wing you can literally lift the saw just by pulling off the wings. I dont know if by useing it I'll still have the problem but I'll update you on that. I thank you so much ro this video and fo sharing your knowledge
Obviously you are very creative individual. I love the stop block and measuring system. Time is money. I'm looking forward to the next version. Rome wasn't built in one day.
To connect the wings to your saw instead of using clamps you could use countersunk screws through the face. I’m in the process of just building some basic wings and I took a piece of aluminum like you but instead of adding a clamp I drilled and taped 1/4 inch screws and then counter sunk them in the face. It is not as quick of a connection but is very sturdy for just two screws on each wing. Really love your work!
You'd have to spend some money but you can create the same length/width wing extension using aluminum extrusion profiles that would cut down a lot on the weight and would be able to support more weight - but they're expensive. They have the V-track or T-track channels depending on what you buy. You don't have to buy 1 long piece. You can buy them in custom lengths and then butt-connect them to each other using certain connectors.
I loved that you thought to use extra saw mounts to mount your wings. I also think the on-site lumber rack is brilliant. You're smart to protect your body while you can. (I did not). Work becomes much less exhausting with a little bit of planning and ingenuity.
Love the wings! Maybe route some long slots through the wings to remove some material to help the weight. Just in the areas you can and not compromise the sturdiness.
Great video.....everything you have for convenience makes sense. I too have way too much equipment when on the job site. But I guess we are just wanting every piece of tools and equipment so we can be productive and do the job right. It sucks if you have to run outside to the truck 10 times a day.
Hey, Spencer... just stopped in to say how much I appreciate all the work that you put into sharing all this info with the rest of us. I can only imagine how busy you are , and I am very grateful for all you do here. Thanks , again!
I have been watching a few your videos about your miter saw setups, as I look to improve my mobile setup. I enjoy your presentation style and explanations. I think you may have moved back to a Kapex miter saw some time ago (I did not watch that video yet, just saw a title). But if you still use your DWS780 out in the field, I think you should take a closer look at the other Dewalt rolling miter saw stand, the DWX726. Once the saw is mounted on this stand there is roughly 3.5 inches of the stand top exposed on either side of the saw base. With both vertical and horizontal slots exposed, providing lots of options for mounting custom saw wings. The square tube underneath that would otherwise accept those flimsy outriggers could possibly be reused to serve as an alignment key and lock down for wings. Also, the stand top is wider so you might not need the extra bit of 2x4 mounted on the saw attachment bracket for increased stability for your wider wings. (To be clear I have not made any wings for mine yet, I just went out to check my stand after watching your video and sharing my thoughts).
Been waiting for the follow up 😁. Get drilling holes for weight reduction and stop locking them together when loading them on the van / bad back or screwed shoulder means no working.
Awesome, you take accuracy to a whole new level. Google to see there's young people out there that REALLY care about the product they deliver to the end user
Lots of food for thought here. Not sure I do enough trim work to justify something this elaborate. However, I think there are some bits and pieces I can adopt.
If I was a trim carpenter, I would consider your setup essential. I'm really impressed. As a DIYer, one of the ideas I'm going to use is the magnetic tape to hold the flex steel rule. When I researched the flex rules, I noticed that an Amazon reviewer has actually checked the accuracy of many brands including the 2 in your links and found them to be up to 1/32" off within 1 foot. He says it is random, some feet are 1/32" short, some long, and some accurate making the tape rule useless for accuracy. I've never thought about checking the accuracy of any tape I have, thinking that any inaccuracy would only be in the ends. I guess as long as it matches the tape measure you use to make your cut list, it wouldn't matter, however, since he says the inaccuracy seems random, then they probably wouldn't match. Have you ever checked yours, and could you comment on their accuracy?
You can usually get away with being out 1/32, that is the standard we used to cut to at high end cabinet shops. When I say high end, I mean beaded inset with applied molding doors in the garage storage closet type houses.
I have the DeWalt DWS779 with an upgrade to add the LED, so it is basically a DWS780. I also have the DWX724 stand. Thinking of adding wings but looking at Fastcap's wings. I see you only have tape on the right side. Would you explain your reasoning for that choice? Fastcap also sells your design for the stop, very useful for trim carpentry.
Just watch your video! Great engineering! I made wings similar to yours about 5 years ago. I use the extenders on the stand to hold up the wings, holds my wings fine. Maybe this will help reduce weight for you.
Couldn't you drill a bunch of holes in the wings to lighten them up. This would give you some clamping options if you're using them as a work surface too. Failing that you could go in underneath with a router and skeletonise the bottom side to bring some weight out of there without losing much rigidity. Just thinking out loud I'm sure whatever you come up with will work well.
You could also remove a significant amount of material from the wings to make them lighter. It wouldn’t affect anything other than making the strain on your back that much lighter. Just a thought mate 👍🇬🇧🇺🇸✊🏻
I would use lamello clamex to attach wings to saw. I use the Rigid MSUV stand. I love having the wheels and how it unfolds in a blink of an eye but the supports sag really bad. I would like to repurpose the ridgid stand supports to be the legs for the wings so they could still store away in the stand to decrease the weight of the wings. If anyone could combine your wings and MSUV type stand that transports everything at once would be winner.
There is this PVC foam board that you can get in 3/4" thickness. Its supposed to be half the weight of plywood. I've considered ordering a sheet to change out the MDF on my MFT tables to save a ton of weight. The other advantage would be wood glue would never stick to it and you could leave a wet rag on it all day without swelling. Just not sure yet if its rigid enough but it is supposed to be similar to plywood.
I have just started building a set of wings. I'm wondering if you could elaborate a little more on the flip stop? I don't like a fence on my wings, and the Peachtree track used for the FastCap flip stop basically creates a small fence. Would it be just as practical to run two flip stops that ride in a flush mounted t-track? Thank you.
What about taking the wood block off of the aluminum angle and just sitting the wings on them, if you have to maybe get a thicker piece of aluminum if you need more to bolt the bracket to.
You took your system to the next level there, I built the Ron Paulk table and his miter saw box with wings and like it, but not as functional as your by any means. One day while taking lunch I had some bafoon subs come in and decide to move my set up and wings…tore it all apart..was not happy after all the work of making it. Thanks for your video I like it a lot.
For weight you could skin the bottoms with an 1/8th panel creating an closed pocket (yes I know I just added more weight) and then drill a shitload of holes turning it into a down draft table for when you sand
attach to the bench using the DeWalt mounts to the block of wood you made under there. Don't bother attaching to the base of the saw. the FASTCAP stop block is easily able to calibrate each time you set up if needed.
I created my wings thst work with that dewalt miter saw stand. The extensions fully extended support the wings fine, so I dont need folding legs. I made my wings from birch ply with black walnut trim.
I would consider aluminum bleacher seats. Extruded aluminum, in various finishes, e.g. milled, annodized, etc. comes in various widths or two could bee bolted side by side, and most fasteners that work on wood will work on aluminum as well. If you really need wood on the edges you could use adhesive to put a 1x3 along the edge. I'll bet you can find a supplier that will give you a good price to not take any of the other bleacher parts, just the bench piece. Finally, I saw one 'aluminum players bench' that just looked like a double wide bleacher seat. Might also start asking around who will do some TIG welding for a 12 pack.
You commented about removing material from the support legs to make them lighter, would that NOT work on the wings? Drill 3/4" holes in the wings 4-6" apart length and width wise like you would do on a work bench for bench dawgs? Your videos are well done and Very informative, Thanks.
I notice there is never any flooring in your videos. Do you hang all the doors before flooring goes in? Here in central Illinois they install all the hard surface flooring before we start to hang doors and trim
Just had shoulder surgery replacement. Watching your miter setup and diy tips on crown molding. Do you sell jig for the stop block in front of the miter saw?
I'm thinking you can drill some holes in the tables (and for sure on the leg support) w/o sacrificing rigidity. Especially since you have the T-track for some added strength. And if you used Parf Guide benchdog jig, you could make incredibly accurate tops/stops along the top. LOL. @8:59, I see you already thought of it. But the Parf guide part may still be apropos. Hmm, @12:50, Have a look at the benchdogs that drop completely into the hole. If you had a wider metal bracket at the bottom, you could make a benchdog hole and have it mate up perfectly with zero chance of movement.
For the weight of the wings you could do some 1/2" angled routing. A 45 angle would keep the material of catching and would keep the strength but dump a bunch of weight and still be able to nest everything inside.
I built a set of your version 2.0 before your update came out. I use a Makita LS1013 and got real creative on the connection of saw to wings. It works and isn't bad. I'm officially retired, but that said, I still work in the trades a lot. One day, I am actually gonna use these nice wings and that awesome stop block on a job where they will fit! LOL! As always, Spencer, thanks for everything you share and for the links to your Amazon store. My kids are going to inherit a heck of a lot of nice, efficient tools because of you! LOL!
@@craigcasale1574 I just saw your reply. Yes, I will take some photos and try to explain how I came up with my attachment system. Feel at ease in contacting me at mricha610 at Comcast dot net. I would be totally embarrassed to post the info here! LOL!
You hit on it talking about the legs. Why not drill some holes in the wings to lighten up the weight. Much like a woodworking bench it might offer you additional options to work with materials
Hey man. Nice to see a video from you again. How do you like your Ford Transit? I've heard crappy stories about them and just about any big size work van- sprinters/promasters/transits- so I was curious as to how yours was holding up. You should do a van tour btw.
@@InsiderCarpentry You just told me there's an Insider carpentry video that I haven't watched?? I am both ashamed and very happy. Thanks for the response!
Couldn't you cut out some of the material in your wing's to lighten the load. Or use aluminium. Just a thought I'm at beginner DIY . Kind regards Cindy
Thank you for always providing such great content!! I look forward to seeing more soon. Quick question. For you miter saw wing attachment connections, have you tried or considered a simple leaf hinge? I have them in a similar application and been happy with their ability to provide repeatable alignment.
Hey man. Your video's are awesome and I really appreciate them, keep up the good work. Can you put a link to the tall mitersaw fence? I didn't see it in the description.
Any reason you prefer the track and stop on the right? I have mine on the left. I prefer to see the cut line on the left of the blade out of the way of the arm holding the saw. Preference or am I missing something?
Hey mate, love your videos from Australia! Thanks for sharing 🙏. Just thought I throw some ideas into the mix and see if you have considered them or not. One is 'metal French cleats' for attaching the wings to the saw? Another is obviously storing the wings in a sub floor in your work van to limit lifting them overhead?
Try a constrained layer design using outer (wear) layers of 1/4" hardboard bonded to a rigid foam core. The t track could be routed into the foam, with the fasteners for the t track in the surface bolted trough the bottom hardboard layer for strength. You would also need a strip of sold wood banding to allow attaching the fence and other accessories along the edges (and to protect the foam core); would further strengthen the assembly as well (similar to a hollow core door).. Rigid foam (polyisocyanate) is available at any building supply center. Should be very lightweight and very stiff. Downside is that the pane thickness is fixed; no "hollows" underneath when you stack broken down extensions for storage. But the weight savings may make up for that inconvenience.
Insider Carpentry Thanks! Actually found it today and ordered. As a practicing mechanical engineer who’s been in production and mfg for almost 40 years, I gotta tell you, it’s a joy to see a young person who thinks like you,and WORKS like you. I’m a wannabe cabinet and trim guy who’s built everything from boats to an artificial leg ( true story, turned it on my lathe for an amputee friend to wear to a Halloween party as a pirate). I learn something from every video. Thanks, and looking forward to learning more.
Commonly done with cars on panels (drilling holes). Between that and using lightweight plywood, can likely cut the weight of the wings by half. The extension tables are simply for support, so just need to be stiff enough to not bend longitudinally.
After reading up on this, drilling holes is not a good option with wood. It is more effective to use a lighter wood product to begin with. A structured panel (like a hollow core door) may work, with just a thin veneer on the working surface.
Quick and dirty but so helpful. Side note I am a new builder and was wondering a couple things: 1. Why raw finger jointed poplar and not pre primed? I am assuming it is getting painted. 2. On hardwoods is your builder having you install baseboard before floor?
I've learned so much from watching your videos. It's definitely helped my efficiency. I was interested to build a set of these wings. I found you mentioned various dimensions on other videos. Right side length 93" from saw blade to end. Left side length 90" from saw blade to end. 2-5/8" thick on the popler stiffeners, 3/4" ply top etc., but I can't find anything on the width(depth) front to back, except that you made 2.0 version 2" deeper. Can you briefly mention the depth front to back and also the backset between the aluminum fence on the saw and the front of the stop block track? thanks!
Great video. Do you think the wings would flex to much if you cut out some of the plywood surface? Like perforated. Random size round holes (hole saw), squares, rectangles, parallelograms (jigsaw), combination of shapes. Maybe add a couple support ribs on the underside for stiffeners.
Great content! Built my own version of the Paulk PTS on wheels. The thing is a huge dust and tool collector though. I'm currently building a set up like this for a faster, lighter set up and tear down. I like having more space in front of the saw. THX for sharing. I hope you create lasting income off these videos.
Quick question why do you have the tape and stop block on the right hand side? Isn’t easier to line up cuts/ better visibility on the left hand side of the dewalt
It may be. I like to hook tape from the right so finished pieces go towards the right. Just seems like the finished cut pieces should already be on the right side of the saw.
One thing that drove me crazy as a trim subcontractor was having to load and unload all my tools every day. I wondering what you do. What about your miter saw stand and table, do you leave these on the job?
I always take mine if I'm doing production like an appartment complex or condo's. Unless I have a dedicated unit I only have access to. If it's a nice ritzy sub division I leave em and make sure I know everyone who has a key.
I have the same table saw and like your run out table and extension cord bracket. Will be looking into that video. What type and size wood is your miter saw extensions made of?
How do you like the fence lock down on the 780, my last 2 i had to drill and tap a adjustment screw because when you tightened down the fence it would go out of sq with the table
Spencer. I am working on my new rig. I bought the dewalt cordless single battery version and the dewalt rolling mitersaw stand. I’m building a set of custom wings similar to yours. Basically the exact same thing I had in my shop. I’m considering kit bashing a set like your 2.0 with some Ron Paulk dog holes and the truss style wing for tool storage and stability. My hope is this will make it lighter as well as provide a good work space. Using the 12mm ultra light plywood etc and making something to easily attach to the rolling mitersaw stand. 🤷♂️. I don’t have a Chanel so to speak but maybe I’ll try to share a small video of it when it’s completed.
Feel free to shoot me an email with the setup if you'd like. Best way to get a hold of me is spencer@insidercarpentry.com IG works also, but I miss a lot of messages and don't always check my DMs.
Spencer, on your combo-miter T-track, the website list it as the longest length available is 48". On your video, your wings are over 90" in length. Did you pair two T-tracks for your extended length or is it one piece? Thanks
@Michael Ford had the same question. Spencer commented back that he uses the standard stop. I asked him in his air vs. battery nailer showdown. Thought I’d pass on the info to you.
Spencer, I am having a hard time finding the same EZ auxiliary fences with the small bevel at the top for my 779 which I’m guessing would also work on my 790? Only ones I’m seeing are ones I can’t bevel with. Thank you and have a blessed day.
I also meant the notches at the top of the fence do not look the same. They drop down quite a bit more. Not sure if they just changed the design for the 779/ 780, etc but I was looking to get the same ones
Given that you’re not particularly satisfied with the connection design, would you prefer your old Festool type one? I bought the Fastcap Best Fence Festool design wing connection blocks and need to make the saw side bracket like you did.
A really good video on version 2.0 Have you thought about making your wings like a torsion box bench? Probably 20 years ago I made my first bench and used Norm Abrams torsion box bench plans out of plywood and It’s still as flat and strong as when I built it. It is strong enough to park a truck on. I can jump up and down on it and get zero flex. And the torsion style construction really cuts down on the weight. You could even make the front and back pieces and the supports inside like the Paulk bench you have in your workshop and that would make it even lighter weight. Just some thoughts if there happens to be a version 3.0 As someone with a bad back and shoulder, the less weight you deal with on a regular basis or awkward positions the longer career you will have. And from your video’s I have watched you are definitely a”work smarter not harder” kind of guy. These days if I work by myself I use a dolly or cart to move materials and tools. If it gets any worse I may have to make a small trailer to hook up to my electric atv so I can just drive my materials and tools right into the work space! 😊😊😊 Just kidding of course! Or am I? 😊 And the new version of the kapex definitely has a stronger motor. I found a 220v version somewhere. Don’t if it came from Canada or Europe but the 220v motor has had no power or reliability issues. I believe I bought it from someone who moved here from a country that used 220v for their main power....
Amazon item list for these wings - www.amazon.com/shop/insider_carpentry?listId=10C6PZNXUK3N3&ref=idea_share_inf
Combo Miter T Track - amzn.to/2KJBZZC
Support Leg Stand - amzn.to/2vvGzps
T-Track for Crown Jigs - amzn.to/2AUPg1F
1/2" Magnetic Tape - amzn.to/2OkKPPu
Knobs and Bolts - amzn.to/2vvGQsu
Left to Right Adhesive Tape - amzn.to/2KE1lb9
Right to Left Adhesive Tape - amzn.to/2vpzref
Dewalt DWS780 12 inch Miter Saw - amzn.to/2Z5BP9K
FS Tool LM6300 MITER JOINT SAW BLADE (ATB) 12 Inch X 100T, 1″ Bore - amzn.to/2Z4VzKD
Dewalt Miter Saw Stand - amzn.to/2T6lSfH
Dewalt Stand Mounting Brackets - amzn.to/2ZbkZ98
Fast Cap Best Fence Material Stop - www.fastcap.com/product/best-fence-stop?cat=300
How about using a hollow core door as your start for the wings? Cut to width.....reinsert a solid edge to attach t track to. This may not be condusive to the t track in the surface for the crown stop and jig. Just spitballing
Flat fence stop or standard?
Have you considered building and selling these wings?
Great set up. Still framing custom homes 35 yrs. I’ve never seen a set up like that from any other finish guy. They usually have piles of stock on the floor. Everyone uses dewalt tools, but they just use roller extensions to hold stock up. You should be proud of yourself, you definitely a professional finish carpenter.👍🇺🇸
I thought everybody ran the full wings.
Shows you how many people I have been around.
For the weight drill a bunch of bench dog holes, i drilled about 100 holes per wing and it lightened it up and it’s very useful for clamping down material for sanding, routing...
My dad was a finish carpenter, he would have been proud of you. It's hard to find a carpenter that takes pride in their work the way you do. I wish you lived in our area, I would hire you to do all of the wood work I usually do because I can not stand the wood butchers that do remodel work in my area.
This dude should have 500,000 Subscribers... he's really good!!!
There’s a understatement! 😂. Yeah, he is good… if not the best in most aspects his workflow and the attention he places on workflow, detail and precision are imho the best I have seen in my 37 yrs of construction.
Great ideas that I will incorporate into my work. Just a note: I use two stains, put them together end to end and connect my saw to both of them. Gives me great support for long pieces. Maybe eliminating the need for end supports.
Thanks!
I appreciate the support!
constant experimentation..... looking for that optimum setup ......... you are the man it shows in your work.
Spencer for over 20 years I have used a single 5/8" t-nut mounted on my saw and a thumb screw (knob might be better if you have room underneath) inserted through the extension wing end. It has worked flawless, no slop left and right. You can also drill additional holes on the wings for the thumb screw/knob, to adjust the wings forwards or backwards. My wings are about the same depth and I actually prefer the wings slid backwards more, so I can have one stack of material (or tools) behind the fence. When I do skirt boards I move them forward so there's more support out front.
I'm in the middle of redoing my entire van buildout and need to redo my saw station at the same time so everything packs away just right. I use a small 10' cutaway van with a lightweight homemade ramp (that will be stored in a closet behind my cabinets). I'm switching from a foldable stand I've used for over 3 decades to a fixed cabinet on wheels with the saw permanently mounted on it. I'm getting too old (60 now) to be lifting all that stuff constantly. The cabinet will be on 10" pneumatic wheels (necessary to roll up into the van). My ramp is fairly steep, more so than yours probably.
I plan on having short extension wings hinged to the cabinet that fold up for smaller jobs. (I do a lot of remodeling, and don't always need the long extensions anymore). Then when I need the longer wings for base, casing, stairs or crown, I can mount the second set of wings to the fold up wings. This I hope will reduce the size/footprint and weight of my long wings. Again getting too old for this heavy lifting with a bad shoulder now, plus with only a small 10' box I need it as compacted as possible.
You have giving me MANY ideas and excellent suggestions threw your videos. I hope maybe some of this could be useful to you or others out there.
Just want to make a couple of clarifications. I said 5/8" thumb screw, that is incorrect. I meant 5/16" and the wings also rest on a 1/2" ledge that helps prevents the twisting and help carry the load.
Also, the t-nut (or insert) is mounted to a small wooden extension (about 7" wide) up against the saw, not in the saw itself. There is a huge advantage in mounting the main extension wings to a small extension (about 6 to 8" wide) that is permanently mounted to the bench rather than to the saw itself. It makes your long extensions 6 to 8" shorter while giving you the same cut compacity. I mention this because that difference may be just enough for you to be able store your extension vertically against the wall like you would prefer.
Awesome setup thanks for letting us inside your business 👍
Loving that material rack and general work flow .. appreciate your candid thoughts on the pros and cons..first rate content.. Thanks
Thank you again, Spencer. I'm now in a position to start making the wings happen for my own setup. Just got a RAM Promaster and I'm setting that sucker up to do things right!
Awesome set up Spencer. I saw your video on your first set about 1.5-2 years ago and built a set for our Business. They work amazingly!
You are a life changer brother. I've been searching for a good saw stand for when im trimming houses and found your video. I made the exact same set up but did some things differently. I watch several times and listed to the pros and con and for the attachment to the saw I used a z bar picture hanger, I had to router out a 1/4 out of the wing itself where i attached the hanger so it fit tight to the saw which turned out pretty good I have just about a 1/16" gap which im happy with and for the legs I used the same plywood like you have but I used foldable self locking hinges so the legs are very sturdy and folds neatly under the wing for storage plus tbe hinges once it is closed you have to press the release to open and close it so its just awesome. I bought these on Amazon. Also to solve the back and forth rocking I drilled and installed 2 ball point screws underneath the wings to go through to the hanger where I drill holes so the balls can slide into, it fits very tight on the saw, to detach the wing you can literally lift the saw just by pulling off the wings. I dont know if by useing it I'll still have the problem but I'll update you on that. I thank you so much ro this video and fo sharing your knowledge
Obviously you are very creative individual. I love the stop block and measuring system. Time is money. I'm looking forward to the next version. Rome wasn't built in one day.
You're doing good buddy! Thanks for the ideas!
Great setup. I love the use of T-Tracks mounted flush to the top.
Easily the best trim work and site logistics instruction on TH-cam
Ron Paulk talks about a lightweight plywood. I can see where this would help in your application. Cool wings.
I love the new legs on wings... they look very sturdy!
To connect the wings to your saw instead of using clamps you could use countersunk screws through the face. I’m in the process of just building some basic wings and I took a piece of aluminum like you but instead of adding a clamp I drilled and taped 1/4 inch screws and then counter sunk them in the face. It is not as quick of a connection but is very sturdy for just two screws on each wing. Really love your work!
Love your videos Spencer! One other thought....would be willing to pay for plans for these wings! ;-)
You'd have to spend some money but you can create the same length/width wing extension using aluminum extrusion profiles that would cut down a lot on the weight and would be able to support more weight - but they're expensive. They have the V-track or T-track channels depending on what you buy. You don't have to buy 1 long piece. You can buy them in custom lengths and then butt-connect them to each other using certain connectors.
I loved that you thought to use extra saw mounts to mount your wings.
I also think the on-site lumber rack is brilliant. You're smart to protect your body while you can. (I did not). Work becomes much less exhausting with a little bit of planning and ingenuity.
Love the wings! Maybe route some long slots through the wings to remove some material to help the weight. Just in the areas you can and not compromise the sturdiness.
Great video.....everything you have for convenience makes sense. I too have way too much equipment when on the job site. But I guess we are just wanting every piece of tools and equipment so we can be productive and do the job right. It sucks if you have to run outside to the truck 10 times a day.
I too let the dust fly. I do use the Rousseau lighted dust canopy keeps it all in a pile below the saw.
Hey, Spencer... just stopped in to say how much I appreciate all the work that you put into sharing all this info with the rest of us. I can only imagine how busy you are , and I am very grateful for all you do here. Thanks , again!
My pleasure!
I have been watching a few your videos about your miter saw setups, as I look to improve my mobile setup. I enjoy your presentation style and explanations.
I think you may have moved back to a Kapex miter saw some time ago (I did not watch that video yet, just saw a title). But if you still use your DWS780 out in the field, I think you should take a closer look at the other Dewalt rolling miter saw stand, the DWX726. Once the saw is mounted on this stand there is roughly 3.5 inches of the stand top exposed on either side of the saw base. With both vertical and horizontal slots exposed, providing lots of options for mounting custom saw wings. The square tube underneath that would otherwise accept those flimsy outriggers could possibly be reused to serve as an alignment key and lock down for wings. Also, the stand top is wider so you might not need the extra bit of 2x4 mounted on the saw attachment bracket for increased stability for your wider wings. (To be clear I have not made any wings for mine yet, I just went out to check my stand after watching your video and sharing my thoughts).
One of your better video, so much useful information!
Been waiting for the follow up 😁. Get drilling holes for weight reduction and stop locking them together when loading them on the van / bad back or screwed shoulder means no working.
Awesome, you take accuracy to a whole new level. Google to see there's young people out there that REALLY care about the product they deliver to the end user
I don't do enough trim to justify building such a setup, but it's still cool to see it. Nice rig!
Lots of food for thought here. Not sure I do enough trim work to justify something this elaborate. However, I think there are some bits and pieces I can adopt.
If I was a trim carpenter, I would consider your setup essential. I'm really impressed. As a DIYer, one of the ideas I'm going to use is the magnetic tape to hold the flex steel rule. When I researched the flex rules, I noticed that an Amazon reviewer has actually checked the accuracy of many brands including the 2 in your links and found them to be up to 1/32" off within 1 foot. He says it is random, some feet are 1/32" short, some long, and some accurate making the tape rule useless for accuracy. I've never thought about checking the accuracy of any tape I have, thinking that any inaccuracy would only be in the ends. I guess as long as it matches the tape measure you use to make your cut list, it wouldn't matter, however, since he says the inaccuracy seems random, then they probably wouldn't match. Have you ever checked yours, and could you comment on their accuracy?
You can usually get away with being out 1/32, that is the standard we used to cut to at high end cabinet shops.
When I say high end, I mean beaded inset with applied molding doors in the garage storage closet type houses.
I have the DeWalt DWS779 with an upgrade to add the LED, so it is basically a DWS780. I also have the DWX724 stand. Thinking of adding wings but looking at Fastcap's wings. I see you only have tape on the right side. Would you explain your reasoning for that choice? Fastcap also sells your design for the stop, very useful for trim carpentry.
Ur a beast!!!! Yes cutting base vertical easier on blade and saw plus cleaner cuts
Just watch your video! Great engineering! I made wings similar to yours about 5 years ago. I use the extenders on the stand to hold up the wings, holds my wings fine. Maybe this will help reduce weight for you.
I made a similar set a few years back for mine.
Couldn't you drill a bunch of holes in the wings to lighten them up. This would give you some clamping options if you're using them as a work surface too. Failing that you could go in underneath with a router and skeletonise the bottom side to bring some weight out of there without losing much rigidity. Just thinking out loud I'm sure whatever you come up with will work well.
You could also remove a significant amount of material from the wings to make them lighter. It wouldn’t affect anything other than making the strain on your back that much lighter. Just a thought mate 👍🇬🇧🇺🇸✊🏻
I would use lamello clamex to attach wings to saw. I use the Rigid MSUV stand. I love having the wheels and how it unfolds in a blink of an eye but the supports sag really bad. I would like to repurpose the ridgid stand supports to be the legs for the wings so they could still store away in the stand to decrease the weight of the wings. If anyone could combine your wings and MSUV type stand that transports everything at once would be winner.
Try the custom long, wide aluminum wing approach to a portable version. Probably can be worked out better than Festool can make.
There is this PVC foam board that you can get in 3/4" thickness. Its supposed to be half the weight of plywood. I've considered ordering a sheet to change out the MDF on my MFT tables to save a ton of weight. The other advantage would be wood glue would never stick to it and you could leave a wet rag on it all day without swelling. Just not sure yet if its rigid enough but it is supposed to be similar to plywood.
I have just started building a set of wings. I'm wondering if you could elaborate a little more on the flip stop? I don't like a fence on my wings, and the Peachtree track used for the FastCap flip stop basically creates a small fence. Would it be just as practical to run two flip stops that ride in a flush mounted t-track? Thank you.
What about taking the wood block off of the aluminum angle and just sitting the wings on them, if you have to maybe get a thicker piece of aluminum if you need more to bolt the bracket to.
You took your system to the next level there, I built the Ron Paulk table and his miter saw box with wings and like it, but not as functional as your by any means. One day while taking lunch I had some bafoon subs come in and decide to move my set up and wings…tore it all apart..was not happy after all the work of making it. Thanks for your video I like it a lot.
For weight you could skin the bottoms with an 1/8th panel creating an closed pocket (yes I know I just added more weight) and then drill a shitload of holes turning it into a down draft table for when you sand
Hey man love the setup - can you give us a quick rundown on the trim rack? Good/bad ugly? Lol. How do you transport it?
attach to the bench using the DeWalt mounts to the block of wood you made under there. Don't bother attaching to the base of the saw. the FASTCAP stop block is easily able to calibrate each time you set up if needed.
I created my wings thst work with that dewalt miter saw stand. The extensions fully extended support the wings fine, so I dont need folding legs. I made my wings from birch ply with black walnut trim.
I would consider aluminum bleacher seats. Extruded aluminum, in various finishes, e.g. milled, annodized, etc. comes in various widths or two could bee bolted side by side, and most fasteners that work on wood will work on aluminum as well. If you really need wood on the edges you could use adhesive to put a 1x3 along the edge. I'll bet you can find a supplier that will give you a good price to not take any of the other bleacher parts, just the bench piece. Finally, I saw one 'aluminum players bench' that just looked like a double wide bleacher seat. Might also start asking around who will do some TIG welding for a 12 pack.
You commented about removing material from the support legs to make them lighter, would that NOT work on the wings? Drill 3/4" holes in the wings 4-6" apart length and width wise like you would do on a work bench for bench dawgs? Your videos are well done and Very informative, Thanks.
I notice there is never any flooring in your videos. Do you hang all the doors before flooring goes in? Here in central Illinois they install all the hard surface flooring before we start to hang doors and trim
Just had shoulder surgery replacement. Watching your miter setup and diy tips on crown molding. Do you sell jig for the stop block in front of the miter saw?
I'm thinking you can drill some holes in the tables (and for sure on the leg support) w/o sacrificing rigidity. Especially since you have the T-track for some added strength. And if you used Parf Guide benchdog jig, you could make incredibly accurate tops/stops along the top. LOL. @8:59, I see you already thought of it. But the Parf guide part may still be apropos. Hmm, @12:50, Have a look at the benchdogs that drop completely into the hole. If you had a wider metal bracket at the bottom, you could make a benchdog hole and have it mate up perfectly with zero chance of movement.
Hi. Newish subscriber. Excellent content and presentation! Wondering if you have plans for the wings available somewhere? Thanks.
Mate I love the new wings, just want to know how wide you made them.thanks Graham
For the weight of the wings you could do some 1/2" angled routing. A 45 angle would keep the material of catching and would keep the strength but dump a bunch of weight and still be able to nest everything inside.
Thanks
I built a set of your version 2.0 before your update came out. I use a Makita LS1013 and got real creative on the connection of saw to wings. It works and isn't bad. I'm officially retired, but that said, I still work in the trades a lot. One day, I am actually gonna use these nice wings and that awesome stop block on a job where they will fit! LOL!
As always, Spencer, thanks for everything you share and for the links to your Amazon store. My kids are going to inherit a heck of a lot of nice, efficient tools because of you! LOL!
It's a privilege. Enjoy the wings!
I am also using a makita. Would love to see how you attached it to the ls1013.
@@craigcasale1574 I just saw your reply. Yes, I will take some photos and try to explain how I came up with my attachment system. Feel at ease in contacting me at mricha610 at Comcast dot net. I would be totally embarrassed to post the info here! LOL!
As always great vid! Can't find sketchup plans for trim rack....would like to look at build. HELP?
You hit on it talking about the legs. Why not drill some holes in the wings to lighten up the weight. Much like a woodworking bench it might offer you additional options to work with materials
Hey man. Nice to see a video from you again. How do you like your Ford Transit?
I've heard crappy stories about them and just about any big size work van- sprinters/promasters/transits- so I was curious as to how yours was holding up.
You should do a van tour btw.
I have a van tour video and a review of the transit video. Check my video feed. I love the transit. Its been near perfect for me.
@@InsiderCarpentry You just told me there's an Insider carpentry video that I haven't watched?? I am both ashamed and very happy. Thanks for the response!
Would you ever consider building the wings around a rolling dewalt miter stand? Less trips/carry concept like your table saw setup.
The main reason I avoid that is because of the size it takes up in my van.
Couldn't you cut out some of the material in your wing's to lighten the load. Or use aluminium. Just a thought I'm at beginner DIY . Kind regards Cindy
Thank you for always providing such great content!! I look forward to seeing more soon. Quick question. For you miter saw wing attachment connections, have you tried or considered a simple leaf hinge? I have them in a similar application and been happy with their ability to provide repeatable alignment.
The real question is, do you like the new ones better? I love what you have done here.
I’m still not satisfied.
You are a true perfectionist very very clever guy 👍
If the two wings together weigh so much just keep them separate. You can figure a way to secure what's on the bottom. Nice solution.
Hey man. Your video's are awesome and I really appreciate them, keep up the good work. Can you put a link to the tall mitersaw fence? I didn't see it in the description.
Ah. Sorry forgot. Google “easy speedy fence”.
Any reason you prefer the track and stop on the right? I have mine on the left. I prefer to see the cut line on the left of the blade out of the way of the arm holding the saw. Preference or am I missing something?
Yes, for the pivot point on the saw to work it needs to be on the right. See my video on advanced miter saw technique.
Hey mate, love your videos from Australia! Thanks for sharing 🙏. Just thought I throw some ideas into the mix and see if you have considered them or not.
One is 'metal French cleats' for attaching the wings to the saw?
Another is obviously storing the wings in a sub floor in your work van to limit lifting them overhead?
Try a constrained layer design using outer (wear) layers of 1/4" hardboard bonded to a rigid foam core. The t track could be routed into the foam, with the fasteners for the t track in the surface bolted trough the bottom hardboard layer for strength. You would also need a strip of sold wood banding to allow attaching the fence and other accessories along the edges (and to protect the foam core); would further strengthen the assembly as well (similar to a hollow core door).. Rigid foam (polyisocyanate) is available at any building supply center. Should be very lightweight and very stiff. Downside is that the pane thickness is fixed; no "hollows" underneath when you stack broken down extensions for storage. But the weight savings may make up for that inconvenience.
Couldn’t find the link to the aluminum fence extensions you have on your saw. You mention in the video but not skilled enough to find it now!! Thanks.
Sorry. Google “easy speedy fence”
Insider Carpentry Thanks! Actually found it today and ordered. As a practicing mechanical engineer who’s been in production and mfg for almost 40 years, I gotta tell you, it’s a joy to see a young person who thinks like you,and WORKS like you. I’m a wannabe cabinet and trim guy who’s built everything from boats to an artificial leg ( true story, turned it on my lathe for an amputee friend to wear to a Halloween party as a pirate). I learn something from every video. Thanks, and looking forward to learning more.
Great Job 👍
You could also cut out holes in the wings as well...
Very good!
Are you using the Best Fence track for your stop block setup? Or another brand?
Yes, its the plastic part of the best fence block but then I custom made the rest of it.
You could drill some holes in the surface to reduce weight.
I was thinking the same thing. Router out some of the work surface stock to lighten them up
Commonly done with cars on panels (drilling holes). Between that and using lightweight plywood, can likely cut the weight of the wings by half. The extension tables are simply for support, so just need to be stiff enough to not bend longitudinally.
I was thinking the same, Ron paulk style
After reading up on this, drilling holes is not a good option with wood. It is more effective to use a lighter wood product to begin with. A structured panel (like a hollow core door) may work, with just a thin veneer on the working surface.
Have you seen Ron Paulks work tables?
Quick and dirty but so helpful. Side note I am a new builder and was wondering a couple things:
1. Why raw finger jointed poplar and not pre primed? I am assuming it is getting painted.
2. On hardwoods is your builder having you install baseboard before floor?
Is it the flip up bracket or the flat one???
I've learned so much from watching your videos. It's definitely helped my efficiency. I was interested to build a set of these wings. I found you mentioned various dimensions on other videos. Right side length 93" from saw blade to end. Left side length 90" from saw blade to end. 2-5/8" thick on the popler stiffeners, 3/4" ply top etc., but I can't find anything on the width(depth) front to back, except that you made 2.0 version 2" deeper. Can you briefly mention the depth front to back and also the backset between the aluminum fence on the saw and the front of the stop block track? thanks!
Was wondering this as well
Me too.
Great video. Do you think the wings would flex to much if you cut out some of the plywood surface? Like perforated. Random size round holes (hole saw), squares, rectangles, parallelograms (jigsaw), combination of shapes. Maybe add a couple support ribs on the underside for stiffeners.
Great content! Built my own version of the Paulk PTS on wheels. The thing is a huge dust and tool collector though. I'm currently building a set up like this for a faster, lighter set up and tear down. I like having more space in front of the saw. THX for sharing. I hope you create lasting income off these videos.
Thanks man. 👊 You’re right, the Paulk benches collect sawdust like crazy.
What do you think of the Cut Hub?
Quick question why do you have the tape and stop block on the right hand side? Isn’t easier to line up cuts/ better visibility on the left hand side of the dewalt
It may be. I like to hook tape from the right so finished pieces go towards the right. Just seems like the finished cut pieces should already be on the right side of the saw.
One thing that drove me crazy as a trim subcontractor was having to load and unload all my tools every day. I wondering what you do. What about your miter saw stand and table, do you leave these on the job?
...........I'm in the same boat...I too would like to know.
I always take mine if I'm doing production like an appartment complex or condo's. Unless I have a dedicated unit I only have access to. If it's a nice ritzy sub division I leave em and make sure I know everyone who has a key.
I leave the big stiff setup. Small tools get locked in a closet with deadbolt inswing door.
I have the same table saw and like your run out table and extension cord bracket. Will be looking into that video. What type and size wood is your miter saw extensions made of?
How do you like the fence lock down on the 780, my last 2 i had to drill and tap a adjustment screw because when you tightened down the fence it would go out of sq with the table
I have the same issues. I find you just want to snug them not over tighten. If you over tighten it kicks them out of plane.
Spencer. I am working on my new rig. I bought the dewalt cordless single battery version and the dewalt rolling mitersaw stand. I’m building a set of custom wings similar to yours. Basically the exact same thing I had in my shop. I’m considering kit bashing a set like your 2.0 with some Ron Paulk dog holes and the truss style wing for tool storage and stability. My hope is this will make it lighter as well as provide a good work space. Using the 12mm ultra light plywood etc and making something to easily attach to the rolling mitersaw stand. 🤷♂️.
I don’t have a Chanel so to speak but maybe I’ll try to share a small video of it when it’s completed.
Feel free to shoot me an email with the setup if you'd like. Best way to get a hold of me is spencer@insidercarpentry.com
IG works also, but I miss a lot of messages and don't always check my DMs.
@@InsiderCarpentry Will do! Thanks 👍👍
Spencer, on your combo-miter T-track, the website list it as the longest length available is 48". On your video, your wings are over 90" in length. Did you pair two T-tracks for your extended length or is it one piece? Thanks
Do you use the flat stop or standard stop? The website doesn’t explain the difference.
@Michael Ford had the same question. Spencer commented back that he uses the standard stop. I asked him in his air vs. battery nailer showdown. Thought I’d pass on the info to you.
@@TR-rn3pd thank you for the info. I had the same question!
Spencer, I am having a hard time finding the same EZ auxiliary fences with the small bevel at the top for my 779 which I’m guessing would also work on my 790?
Only ones I’m seeing are ones I can’t bevel with.
Thank you and have a blessed day.
Correct. They need to be removed in order to bevel.
I also meant the notches at the top of the fence do not look the same. They drop down quite a bit more. Not sure if they just changed the design for the 779/ 780, etc but I was looking to get the same ones
Given that you’re not particularly satisfied with the connection design, would you prefer your old Festool type one? I bought the Fastcap Best Fence Festool design wing connection blocks and need to make the saw side bracket like you did.
Yeah. What I had before was just as good of not better than what I have now.
Do leave your saws on the job at the end of the day? Or pack up at the end of the day?
Leave on site.
Magnetic strip and steel tape for easy calibration.... Genius.
Interested to see your table saw outfeed table.
***lol i should watch the whole vid b4 posting.
A really good video on version 2.0
Have you thought about making your wings like a torsion box bench? Probably 20 years ago I made my first bench and used Norm Abrams torsion box bench plans out of plywood and It’s still as flat and strong as when I built it. It is strong enough to park a truck on. I can jump up and down on it and get zero flex. And the torsion style construction really cuts down on the weight. You could even make the front and back pieces and the supports inside like the Paulk bench you have in your workshop and that would make it even lighter weight. Just some thoughts if there happens to be a version 3.0
As someone with a bad back and shoulder, the less weight you deal with on a regular basis or awkward positions the longer career you will have. And from your video’s I have watched you are definitely a”work smarter not harder” kind of guy.
These days if I work by myself I use a dolly or cart to move materials and tools.
If it gets any worse I may have to make a small trailer to hook up to my electric atv so I can just drive my materials and tools right into the work space! 😊😊😊 Just kidding of course! Or am I? 😊
And the new version of the kapex definitely has a stronger motor. I found a 220v version somewhere. Don’t if it came from Canada or Europe but the 220v motor has had no power or reliability issues. I believe I bought it from someone who moved here from a country that used 220v for their main power....
Hi I
Love watching your videos and I would like to purchase one of those stands for the 780 compound miter saw please help
I do not sell them. Sorry