This is great information. At the end of every night I loosen my drag to release the tension. I was taught to do that when I first learned to musky fishing.
As someone who is 5’6” I’ve definitely been satisfied with only using a rod that’s 7’ or 7’6” - it really is just down to what you’re comfortable throwing and using all day
Nice vid. I was always taught to keep my drag set so line CAN be peeled off on a big run.....and I can see how that's cost me hook-set power in the past. Better to jar bone soon as possible
I bought a fishing kayak at the beginning of the year and have been trying to catch one all season. I've been going about twice a month and just a few weeks ago I finally had my first follow but no take. It's been a very frustrating process but I'm not giving up.
Good video!!! I especially liked the correct emphasis on a sweeping 8 or circle or oval, including fish can't turn on a dime. They are visual. They lose sight, they lose interest. I adamantly disagree with locking a drag down. When a fish needs to swim, it needs to swim because THAT is what drag is meant for; that's it's job. Locking drag down 100% on any reel risks ripping hooks from the jaw, puts unnecessary strain on the rod, on the line, on the reel gears. Very very very bad suggestion! Drag is meant to let a hot fish swim when it wants...it'll tire soon enough & come back to the boat. With your drag adjusted appropriately, and if you find yourself wanting a little extra tension, simply put your thumb on the spool to stop line from being stripped- easy peazy & there's no extra pressures being added unnecessarily all the other times. I'll also add & disagree with the video about free spooling when needed while a fish is on because all this does is engage the line release while the reel is under pressure & they are not meant for that (expect your reel to be all busted up over time & have a mucho shorter lifepsan if you do that) Also missed the boat on hook sharpening. Don't test a hook's sharpness on your finger skin like the video shows. Don't test it by feeling it dig in as you slide it down a fingernail either (though, yes, that is a sharp hook). Sharpen a hook with a triangle or cone. I use a triangle & focus on just the point left side, right side & front side on a fine "grit" file. Then, when you put the hook on your fingernail, you'll literally feel the hook "sink" a little bit & it'll take a noticeable "pop" to release it- now, that is a razor sharp hook that's ready for use. Also, don't assume because 1 point is good, they're all good- check each point, don't be lazy & risk losing a fish of a lifetime. The video 200% missed the point on this. Also I did not hear "keep checking hook sharpness" because when hooks are as sharp as I'm describing, it only takes a few weeds to knock off that point. Keep checking the sharpness. I partly agree with longer the better with rods. Boat height + caster height comes into play. I have 7' 10", 8 1/2', 9', 10' rods on my boat. The 9' & 10' by far give me the most gradual sweeping turns on a figure 8. The 7' 10" is the most difficult making a good 8. The 8' 6" is a good average for my boat & my height. He forgot to include boat height off the water. My 9' & 10' rods are so long every twitch or rip splashes the tip in the water. Lure action is negatively impacted by those rod lengths. 8 1/2 footers are perfect for my individual scenario of boat + my heights This might be a personal preference & it's why I'm also using Chaos Tackle rods. I do not like a fast or extra fast rod taper on musky rods. The fish needs something to give on a boat side strike. Chaos Tackle rods use a moderate fast taper allowing more of the rod blank to bend in a fight....built in give with braided line (that does not stretch), tight drags, heavy rods & thick hooks (something has to give). I will never consider a F or XF taper rod for musky, though I admit I might be in a minority thinking like this because far too many musky rods are essentially bass rods beefed up, without any real thinking of boat side hooksets & large, hot fish being boatside. Something has to provide give & a moderate fast or moderate does that job optimally. It's a good video but falls short in the areas where I elaborated. Hopefully it helps someone because I made some very expensive mistakes initially.
Referring to point number 4. I’ve caught more on the 8 when I totally ignore the skie upon the follow. It’s in our nature to allow the fish to catch up to the lure. Once I see the fish I don’t even concentrate on it After all it’s mimicking a baitfish trying to escape
That's probably the reason too sharp of turns don't work, not being a move a biatfish can actually pull off. I do my short line maneuvers with the idea of looking like a baitfish trying to escape first and foremost.
finally i found some information about how to properly catch my target fish! i just moved from germany to Montana and i am looking forward to step up to the big brother of our pikes in germany. thank you so much for the videos
Yes, this is a great video for beginners! Ben, just thought about possibly doing a video on how to handle the fish. Using the "hold your breath rule" and hook removal. I personally first try with long pliers then if that doesn't work I cut the hooks ASAP. Great job
Great informational video, on point! Nice to see that people lift these topics from time to time, when done right like this. magic! Keep up the good work!
Thank you for this video! It’s so refreshing to watch a video that isn’t full of trash clickbait. I can’t wait to catch my first Muskie. Gonna go this fall when the water gets cold again. What a beautiful fish.
Yeah I think number 5 is most important. Something I learned through trial and error is you absolutely have to keep the drag as tight as possible. If it slips at all on the hookset that fish is gonna be gone.
I run 100lb braid to a 6-9 inch leader. I’d personally run a Stand Wire Leader for versatility. As far as baits I don’t think you can beat any sort of bucktail, and I’d also throw in some sort of soft plastic bait!
im sorry but I feel there is no need for such big gear for peopel who arnt about it 24/7 i almost landed a muskie on a super light rod and line but that just what i think and im not a expert??
It’s mainly to handle the larger lures and figure 8s effectively instead of handle i f the fish itself. Heavy line is important to save you from snapping off larger lures should back lashes happen, and the longer heavier rods will help you better accomplish figure 8s.
Heavy enough to suit the lures and tactics, but not necessarily super-heavy. But I learned for a number of pike that got away in weeds in my younger days the gear has to be heavy *enough* to be able to turn and hold them on to keep them out of heavy cover.
This is great information. At the end of every night I loosen my drag to release the tension. I was taught to do that when I first learned to musky fishing.
Can you do a video on setting the hook. I see a lot of people not set the hook very hard especially sucker fishing.
For sure! Gonna do lots this summer related to hook setting and figure 8s!
Very nice spot. Thank for share this video,
As someone who is 5’6” I’ve definitely been satisfied with only using a rod that’s 7’ or 7’6” - it really is just down to what you’re comfortable throwing and using all day
Nice vid. I was always taught to keep my drag set so line CAN be peeled off on a big run.....and I can see how that's cost me hook-set power in the past. Better to jar bone soon as possible
Great tips man, seriously a fast and effective rundown!
Thanks for watching man!
Great video, I’m not a huge figure 8 guy as a prefer a fish away from the boat and the big fight but solid tips
I bought a fishing kayak at the beginning of the year and have been trying to catch one all season. I've been going about twice a month and just a few weeks ago I finally had my first follow but no take. It's been a very frustrating process but I'm not giving up.
The pay off will be well worth it! Good luck the rest of your season!!
Good video!!!
I especially liked the correct emphasis on a sweeping 8 or circle or oval, including fish can't turn on a dime. They are visual. They lose sight, they lose interest.
I adamantly disagree with locking a drag down. When a fish needs to swim, it needs to swim because THAT is what drag is meant for; that's it's job. Locking drag down 100% on any reel risks ripping hooks from the jaw, puts unnecessary strain on the rod, on the line, on the reel gears. Very very very bad suggestion! Drag is meant to let a hot fish swim when it wants...it'll tire soon enough & come back to the boat. With your drag adjusted appropriately, and if you find yourself wanting a little extra tension, simply put your thumb on the spool to stop line from being stripped- easy peazy & there's no extra pressures being added unnecessarily all the other times. I'll also add & disagree with the video about free spooling when needed while a fish is on because all this does is engage the line release while the reel is under pressure & they are not meant for that (expect your reel to be all busted up over time & have a mucho shorter lifepsan if you do that)
Also missed the boat on hook sharpening. Don't test a hook's sharpness on your finger skin like the video shows. Don't test it by feeling it dig in as you slide it down a fingernail either (though, yes, that is a sharp hook). Sharpen a hook with a triangle or cone. I use a triangle & focus on just the point left side, right side & front side on a fine "grit" file. Then, when you put the hook on your fingernail, you'll literally feel the hook "sink" a little bit & it'll take a noticeable "pop" to release it- now, that is a razor sharp hook that's ready for use. Also, don't assume because 1 point is good, they're all good- check each point, don't be lazy & risk losing a fish of a lifetime. The video 200% missed the point on this. Also I did not hear "keep checking hook sharpness" because when hooks are as sharp as I'm describing, it only takes a few weeds to knock off that point. Keep checking the sharpness.
I partly agree with longer the better with rods. Boat height + caster height comes into play. I have 7' 10", 8 1/2', 9', 10' rods on my boat. The 9' & 10' by far give me the most gradual sweeping turns on a figure 8. The 7' 10" is the most difficult making a good 8. The 8' 6" is a good average for my boat & my height. He forgot to include boat height off the water. My 9' & 10' rods are so long every twitch or rip splashes the tip in the water. Lure action is negatively impacted by those rod lengths. 8 1/2 footers are perfect for my individual scenario of boat + my heights
This might be a personal preference & it's why I'm also using Chaos Tackle rods. I do not like a fast or extra fast rod taper on musky rods. The fish needs something to give on a boat side strike. Chaos Tackle rods use a moderate fast taper allowing more of the rod blank to bend in a fight....built in give with braided line (that does not stretch), tight drags, heavy rods & thick hooks (something has to give). I will never consider a F or XF taper rod for musky, though I admit I might be in a minority thinking like this because far too many musky rods are essentially bass rods beefed up, without any real thinking of boat side hooksets & large, hot fish being boatside. Something has to provide give & a moderate fast or moderate does that job optimally.
It's a good video but falls short in the areas where I elaborated. Hopefully it helps someone because I made some very expensive mistakes initially.
Referring to point number 4. I’ve caught more on the 8 when I totally ignore the skie upon the follow. It’s in our nature to allow the fish to catch up to the lure. Once I see the fish I don’t even concentrate on it After all it’s mimicking a baitfish trying to escape
Agreed! I always try to speed up, doesn’t always work but sometimes it gets them going. Thank you for watching!
That's probably the reason too sharp of turns don't work, not being a move a biatfish can actually pull off. I do my short line maneuvers with the idea of looking like a baitfish trying to escape first and foremost.
finally i found some information about how to properly catch my target fish! i just moved from germany to Montana and i am looking forward to step up to the big brother of our pikes in germany. thank you so much for the videos
Appreciate it! Best of luck to you!
Yes, this is a great video for beginners! Ben, just thought about possibly doing a video on how to handle the fish. Using the "hold your breath rule" and hook removal. I personally first try with long pliers then if that doesn't work I cut the hooks ASAP. Great job
Missed a big one last year by not doing a figure 8 on about my 200th cast. Lol.
Solid video, Ben. Good luck this season.
Great informational video, on point! Nice to see that people lift these topics from time to time, when done right like this. magic!
Keep up the good work!
Thank you for this video! It’s so refreshing to watch a video that isn’t full of trash clickbait. I can’t wait to catch my first Muskie. Gonna go this fall when the water gets cold again. What a beautiful fish.
Thank you! Good luck this fall!!
I'm a kid and I hooked my first muskie but I yanked it and it took off with a creek chub I'm gonna try in 2 days he was 32 inches
Best of luck on your next trip out!!
Yeah I think number 5 is most important. Something I learned through trial and error is you absolutely have to keep the drag as tight as possible. If it slips at all on the hookset that fish is gonna be gone.
Can you give any hook sharpener recommendation, please?
Thanks for all 👍👍👍. See you soon ✌️🇨🇵
Excellent video. Very well done Ben
Thanks Sam, I appreciate it!
What would you recommend the 5.1 for what baits
what knot do you use tying to leaders
Great video, thanks!
Quick question. What line setup should I use? Wire leader, fluoro, etc.
And are there any go to baits that i should have?
I run 100lb braid to a 6-9 inch leader. I’d personally run a Stand Wire Leader for versatility. As far as baits I don’t think you can beat any sort of bucktail, and I’d also throw in some sort of soft plastic bait!
@@kanalgratisdotcom i did it. Caught a 29 in. Thx for the advice.
@@andrewchronopoulos Awesome Work, Congrats!!!!
Super rad video Ben 🤘🏻
Thanks!!
Where ya located? Let’s get out on some skinny water, my treat…got a new rig this year;);)
2:34 This is so true!!!
I prefer St. CROIX Mojo musky Mefium heavy 7'2" and St. CROIX Tournament Pike rods Medium Heavy 7' and 7'6"
sick video!
If I got a 8 foot for bank fishing did I mess up 😭
Great tips!
Thanks!
Just an FYI for beginners do not max out your drag if you are trolling he was talking about casting
HOT TIPS" THANX!!! jd
What was the name of rod?
Chaos Tackle Assault Sticks are what I run for rods!
Musky as in rank ?
How you gonna figure 8 when your bank fishing
im sorry but I feel there is no need for such big gear for peopel who arnt about it 24/7 i almost landed a muskie on a super light rod and line but that just what i think and im not a expert??
It’s mainly to handle the larger lures and figure 8s effectively instead of handle i f the fish itself. Heavy line is important to save you from snapping off larger lures should back lashes happen, and the longer heavier rods will help you better accomplish figure 8s.
@@kanalgratisdotcom thank you that’s what I thought I fish for them but I use tinier lures and light gear
Heavy enough to suit the lures and tactics, but not necessarily super-heavy. But I learned for a number of pike that got away in weeds in my younger days the gear has to be heavy *enough* to be able to turn and hold them on to keep them out of heavy cover.
@@ballhawk387 yea thanks
Do less sharp turns and slow down the figure eight
Too sharp of turns and turning into the boat is the biggest mistake you can make in the figure 8.