Thanks for watching and taking the time to comment. You might also check out my review of Brownells Oxpho-Blue as well at th-cam.com/video/iWsL520M1oU/w-d-xo.html If you haven't already, I hope you'll check out my other "Mick Mac" Tabletop Review videos on TH-cam.
Currently redoing a 1960 870 wing master got from pawn shop down the road. Thanks for the information if it wasn’t for the video would have took it to the shop to have this done.
Excellent! The Remington 870 Wing Master is a nice shotgun. Cleaned up it should be beautiful. Well worth the effort! Best wishes. Thanks for watching and taking the time to share. Don't forget to like, share and subscribe. If you haven't already, I hope you'll check out my other "Mick Mac" Tabletop Review videos on TH-cam.
It's 30 seconds you leave it on for and not 30 minutes. Edit; just checked the back of the bottle I have. No6 in the instructions, 30 seconds and rinse.
You are absolutely correct. I had misread the tiny print instructions on the bottle. However, sometimes you learn things from your mistakes. In this case, the metal was still reacting to the bluing after 30 seconds. The 30 minute results were actually some of the best I've received. Since that gun I've done some other repairs on other firearms. I've found the steel in different guns react differently. A Colt turned more gray than black, an Iver Johnson had blotchy results, an Astra had a blotchy brownish result, and a Walther had fantastic results. Alcohol works best for cleaning. Heating the part gives better results as well. Thanks for watching and taking time to comment and if you haven't already, I hope you'll check out my other "Mick Mac" Tabletop Review videos on TH-cam.
@@mickmacstabletopreviews8466 I've got to do an old single shot .410 Baikal shotgun. I thought that your finish did look really good even after 30 minutes. I'm thinking of leaving it on the Baikal for 30 mins to see the out come. It just goes to show that too long isn't detrimental to the metal.
Like I said, I found as long as there's still a reaction going on with the bluing agent (which I could see) I just left it work. Some metals had no reaction other than the blackening which was immediate. 30 seconds was probably enough time. Additional time would probably make no difference. Others had more reaction which would continue so I left more time. I suspect you won't know until you're actually doing the bluing. Best wishes and good luck.
Good to know and thanks for watching and taking the time to share. If you haven't already, I hope you'll check out my other "Mick Mac" Tabletop Review videos on TH-cam.
Stuff works. Secret is if it doesn't stink it's not working. Get steel wool 0000 kind. Put coat of oil on gun oil w/e I use mineral oil. Rub w steel wool for a bit. Key step next tried bottle direction didn't get good result. I then used acetone to clean surface really well after steel wool. Went straight from that to apply blue that's when it stunk. Wiped off w cold water once you get done. Repeat those steps a few times you'll love the results. When done make sure to put a coat of oil on then let it cure for 24 hours if possible. Better than new.
Your suggestion of acetone as a cleaner is a good one. Thanks for taking the time to share and comment. If you haven't already, I hope you'll check out my other "Mick Mac" Tabletop Review videos on TH-cam.
Yes, Birchwood Casey does offer their "Aluminum Black" touch-up solution which I tested during several of my reviews. See th-cam.com/video/_JsvSe9MuY8/w-d-xo.html as an example. But I found the results to be disappointing overall when applied to a larger area than a scratch. Thanks for watching and taking the time to comment. If you haven't already, I hope you'll check out my other "Mick Mac" Tabletop Review videos on TH-cam.
Great! Glad you found it useful. You may also find it helpful to check out my in-depth video on re-bluing at: th-cam.com/video/1OpGsQWNOTE/w-d-xo.html Thanks for watching. Don't forget to like, share and subscribe. If you haven't already, I hope you'll check out my other "Mick Mac" Tabletop Review videos on TH-cam and Rumble.
Thanks for the feedback. Always appreciated. Thanks for watching. If you haven't already, I hope you'll check out my other "Mick Mac" Tabletop Review videos on TH-cam.
Sir, May I pass on some advice I was given? It is good policy NOT to dip into the blueing bottle itself but to pour some into a container, just enough for the job, This ensures there is no contamination of the rest of the bottle for further use! Otherwise nice video, Thank you.
Probably good advice. But note that Birchwood Casey will sell you their applicators (they look like a cotton ball affixed to a wire with a loop on the handle) which fit into their bottles perfectly. It gives the impression that you'd be repeatedly dipping into the bottle on a large project. So I'm not so sure about a dipping restriction. Also, while I usually use a fresh swab or patch each time when applying bluing, I have occasionally re-dipped. The same bottle has lasted almost a year and through many projects and does not seem to have lost its potency. However, I would still agree with you that re-dipping isn't the best idea. Thanks for taking the time to comment. Don't forget to like, share and subscribe. If you haven't already, I hope you'll check out my other "Mick Mac" Tabletop Review videos on TH-cam and Rumble.
Perhaps, but Birchwood Casey's Blue & Rust remover did remove the old finish. That would not have happened if it were paint. Whatever, it was indeed a weird looking damage. Thanks for watching and taking the time to comment. Don't forget to like, share and subscribe. If you haven't already, I hope you'll check out my other "Mick Mac" Tabletop Review videos on TH-cam and Rumble.
@@mickmacstabletopreviews8466 maybe the steel wool is what took the paint off, it's just that the finish looked more like the rest of the frame ? I don't know just an observation...thanks and have a great day !!
The instructions suggest 30 seconds, but as I point out in other replies, I've found that leaving it on for as long as there is visible reaction gave me better results. Also, metals differ, so with S&W carbon steel, I've found that reaction could continue for minutes beyond 30 seconds. 30 minutes on first application worked for me on this gun, but not so much on others. Thanks for watching. If you haven't already, I hope you'll check out my other "Mick Mac" Tabletop Review videos on TH-cam.
If you mean, can you apply cold bluing over old bluing? Yes, you can, but the results may not blend and may appear blotchy. Bluing will only work on bare metal areas. That being said, you can experiment and try an area where bluing has been worn off, like on the muzzle due to holster wear. In the end, if the results are satisfying, you may have just saved yourself a whole bluing job. I've done this myself with good results. Thanks for watching and taking the time to comment. Don't forget to like, share and subscribe. If you haven't already, I hope you'll check out my other "Mick Mac" Tabletop Review videos on TH-cam and Rumble.
Anyone know what actual color does perma blue, super blue and aluminum black after several application? I'm looking for something that could produce a really dark green or like a seaweed color..
Other than what I said in my review, I have tested Perma Blue and it appears to provide a lighter bluing effect than Super Blue. I had hoped it would have been darker. Aluminum Black did not perform well in my opinion. As for what would turn a surface green? I have no idea. I suspect it would have more to do with the composition of the metal itself. Thanks for the question and thanks for watching. If you haven't already, I hope you'll check out my other "Mick Mac" Tabletop Review videos on TH-cam.
Yes, so the instructions suggest and as has been pointed out by others. But there are those of us that prefer to let the solution continue to work for as long as there is a reaction. That appears dependent upon the quality and composition of the metal you're trying to blue. See Episode #202411 at th-cam.com/video/iWsL520M1oU/w-d-xo.html Thanks for watching and taking the time to comment. If you haven't already, I hope you'll check out my other "Mick Mac" Tabletop Review videos on TH-cam. BTW, there are quite a few restoration and re-bluing videos within the playlist if you're interested.
@@mickmacstabletopreviews8466 I see. I figured the acids would start to chew up the metal if left on too long. I've only re blued two firearms and im always in such a hurry to get em rinsed off that its kind of a frantic struggle. I will try this. Thanks for the tip!
Yes, Birchwood's instructions are for 30 seconds. However, my experience has been that as long as there's a reaction going on, I'll leave it work with good results. I think the quality of the metal makes a difference. Usually under 2 minutes with a liberal application will do, but this S&W slide was a bit weird with the reaction continuing for minutes. 30 minutes was probably unnecessary, but it didn't hurt and I had good results. Thanks for watching and taking the time to comment. Don't forget to like, share and subscribe. If you haven't already, I hope you'll check out my other "Mick Mac" Tabletop Review videos on TH-cam.
![[MV] A leap of faith...ความเชื่อใจครั้งสุดท้าย (From "Petrichor the series")](http://i.ytimg.com/vi/U1piZH2CNXA/mqdefault.jpg)
I got this product on order for some tools in my saddlery. It looks like it works really good!
Thanks for watching and taking the time to comment. You might also check out my review of Brownells Oxpho-Blue as well at th-cam.com/video/iWsL520M1oU/w-d-xo.html
If you haven't already, I hope you'll check out my other "Mick Mac" Tabletop Review videos on TH-cam.
Currently redoing a 1960 870 wing master got from pawn shop down the road. Thanks for the information if it wasn’t for the video would have took it to the shop to have this done.
Excellent! The Remington 870 Wing Master is a nice shotgun. Cleaned up it should be beautiful. Well worth the effort! Best wishes. Thanks for watching and taking the time to share. Don't forget to like, share and subscribe. If you haven't already, I hope you'll check out my other "Mick Mac" Tabletop Review videos on TH-cam.
It's 30 seconds you leave it on for and not 30 minutes. Edit; just checked the back of the bottle I have. No6 in the instructions, 30 seconds and rinse.
You are absolutely correct. I had misread the tiny print instructions on the bottle. However, sometimes you learn things from your mistakes. In this case, the metal was still reacting to the bluing after 30 seconds. The 30 minute results were actually some of the best I've received. Since that gun I've done some other repairs on other firearms. I've found the steel in different guns react differently. A Colt turned more gray than black, an Iver Johnson had blotchy results, an Astra had a blotchy brownish result, and a Walther had fantastic results. Alcohol works best for cleaning. Heating the part gives better results as well.
Thanks for watching and taking time to comment and if you haven't already, I hope you'll check out my other "Mick Mac" Tabletop Review videos on TH-cam.
@@mickmacstabletopreviews8466 I've got to do an old single shot .410 Baikal shotgun. I thought that your finish did look really good even after 30 minutes. I'm thinking of leaving it on the Baikal for 30 mins to see the out come. It just goes to show that too long isn't detrimental to the metal.
Like I said, I found as long as there's still a reaction going on with the bluing agent (which I could see) I just left it work. Some metals had no reaction other than the blackening which was immediate. 30 seconds was probably enough time. Additional time would probably make no difference. Others had more reaction which would continue so I left more time. I suspect you won't know until you're actually doing the bluing. Best wishes and good luck.
@@mickmacstabletopreviews8466The only firearm I’ve used it on was my over Johnson model 55A. It turned out CLEAN! Dark blueing
Good to know and thanks for watching and taking the time to share. If you haven't already, I hope you'll check out my other "Mick Mac" Tabletop Review videos on TH-cam.
Stuff works. Secret is if it doesn't stink it's not working. Get steel wool 0000 kind. Put coat of oil on gun oil w/e I use mineral oil. Rub w steel wool for a bit. Key step next tried bottle direction didn't get good result. I then used acetone to clean surface really well after steel wool. Went straight from that to apply blue that's when it stunk. Wiped off w cold water once you get done. Repeat those steps a few times you'll love the results. When done make sure to put a coat of oil on then let it cure for 24 hours if possible. Better than new.
Your suggestion of acetone as a cleaner is a good one. Thanks for taking the time to share and comment. If you haven't already, I hope you'll check out my other "Mick Mac" Tabletop Review videos on TH-cam.
Hey bud Birchwood Casey makes a specific blueing for aluminum
Yes, Birchwood Casey does offer their "Aluminum Black" touch-up solution which I tested during several of my reviews. See th-cam.com/video/_JsvSe9MuY8/w-d-xo.html as an example. But I found the results to be disappointing overall when applied to a larger area than a scratch. Thanks for watching and taking the time to comment. If you haven't already, I hope you'll check out my other "Mick Mac" Tabletop Review videos on TH-cam.
Great video! I'm thinking of rebluing an old Sig P226 and upgrading the grips. This really helps!
Great! Glad you found it useful. You may also find it helpful to check out my in-depth video on re-bluing at: th-cam.com/video/1OpGsQWNOTE/w-d-xo.html
Thanks for watching. Don't forget to like, share and subscribe. If you haven't already, I hope you'll check out my other "Mick Mac" Tabletop Review videos on TH-cam and Rumble.
Oh i like that! Looks good!
Thanks for the feedback. Always appreciated. Thanks for watching. If you haven't already, I hope you'll check out my other "Mick Mac" Tabletop Review videos on TH-cam.
Sir, May I pass on some advice I was given? It is good policy NOT to dip into the blueing bottle itself but to pour some into a container, just enough for the job, This ensures there is no contamination of the rest of the bottle for further use! Otherwise nice video, Thank you.
Probably good advice. But note that Birchwood Casey will sell you their applicators (they look like a cotton ball affixed to a wire with a loop on the handle) which fit into their bottles perfectly. It gives the impression that you'd be repeatedly dipping into the bottle on a large project. So I'm not so sure about a dipping restriction. Also, while I usually use a fresh swab or patch each time when applying bluing, I have occasionally re-dipped. The same bottle has lasted almost a year and through many projects and does not seem to have lost its potency. However, I would still agree with you that re-dipping isn't the best idea. Thanks for taking the time to comment. Don't forget to like, share and subscribe. If you haven't already, I hope you'll check out my other "Mick Mac" Tabletop Review videos on TH-cam and Rumble.
I don't think that slide was blued originally, but looked like paint to me, because bluing doesn't scratch like that ?
Perhaps, but Birchwood Casey's Blue & Rust remover did remove the old finish. That would not have happened if it were paint. Whatever, it was indeed a weird looking damage. Thanks for watching and taking the time to comment. Don't forget to like, share and subscribe. If you haven't already, I hope you'll check out my other "Mick Mac" Tabletop Review videos on TH-cam and Rumble.
@@mickmacstabletopreviews8466 maybe the steel wool is what took the paint off, it's just that the finish looked more like the rest of the frame ? I don't know just an observation...thanks and have a great day !!
You too and enjoy the weekend.
I don’t know where the instructions say 30 min. Mine says “1 minute.”
The instructions suggest 30 seconds, but as I point out in other replies, I've found that leaving it on for as long as there is visible reaction gave me better results. Also, metals differ, so with S&W carbon steel, I've found that reaction could continue for minutes beyond 30 seconds. 30 minutes on first application worked for me on this gun, but not so much on others. Thanks for watching. If you haven't already, I hope you'll check out my other "Mick Mac" Tabletop Review videos on TH-cam.
Can you just paint over the old bluing?
If you mean, can you apply cold bluing over old bluing? Yes, you can, but the results may not blend and may appear blotchy. Bluing will only work on bare metal areas. That being said, you can experiment and try an area where bluing has been worn off, like on the muzzle due to holster wear. In the end, if the results are satisfying, you may have just saved yourself a whole bluing job. I've done this myself with good results. Thanks for watching and taking the time to comment. Don't forget to like, share and subscribe. If you haven't already, I hope you'll check out my other "Mick Mac" Tabletop Review videos on TH-cam and Rumble.
Anyone know what actual color does perma blue, super blue and aluminum black after several application? I'm looking for something that could produce a really dark green or like a seaweed color..
Other than what I said in my review, I have tested Perma Blue and it appears to provide a lighter bluing effect than Super Blue. I had hoped it would have been darker. Aluminum Black did not perform well in my opinion. As for what would turn a surface green? I have no idea. I suspect it would have more to do with the composition of the metal itself. Thanks for the question and thanks for watching. If you haven't already, I hope you'll check out my other "Mick Mac" Tabletop Review videos on TH-cam.
@@mickmacstabletopreviews8466 thanks very much for the answer
Okay
Thanks for the feedback and thanks for watching. If you haven't already, I hope you'll check out my other "Mick Mac" Tabletop Review videos on TH-cam
30 seconds.... not 30 min.
Yes, so the instructions suggest and as has been pointed out by others. But there are those of us that prefer to let the solution continue to work for as long as there is a reaction. That appears dependent upon the quality and composition of the metal you're trying to blue. See Episode #202411 at
th-cam.com/video/iWsL520M1oU/w-d-xo.html
Thanks for watching and taking the time to comment. If you haven't already, I hope you'll check out my other "Mick Mac" Tabletop Review videos on TH-cam. BTW, there are quite a few restoration and re-bluing videos within the playlist if you're interested.
@@mickmacstabletopreviews8466 I see. I figured the acids would start to chew up the metal if left on too long. I've only re blued two firearms and im always in such a hurry to get em rinsed off that its kind of a frantic struggle. I will try this. Thanks for the tip!
30 min?!?!? 30 sec to 1 min…
Yes, Birchwood's instructions are for 30 seconds. However, my experience has been that as long as there's a reaction going on, I'll leave it work with good results. I think the quality of the metal makes a difference. Usually under 2 minutes with a liberal application will do, but this S&W slide was a bit weird with the reaction continuing for minutes. 30 minutes was probably unnecessary, but it didn't hurt and I had good results. Thanks for watching and taking the time to comment. Don't forget to like, share and subscribe. If you haven't already, I hope you'll check out my other "Mick Mac" Tabletop Review videos on TH-cam.
@@mickmacstabletopreviews8466😅