Nice! Just a tip, the long 3" screws should have been installed on the doorstop side (the side where the weather stripping is). This ensures that you not only grab the 2X4s, but you also have the maximum amount of it to prevent forced entry. Also, I'd recommend making the hole in the jamb for the deadbolt more oblong (top to bottom) this helps with shifting foundations. You can do this by marking the centre of the hole, and stitching 2 1" diameter holes together and chisel for cleanup to make it look professional.
The screws are only as good as the plate itself. Good screws with massive shear loads will hold but the end of that strike plate will just pop out. Obviously, every door has it’s limits too. When I do this I try and use a #10x3 but have done #12x4 on garage doors. Usually whatever will sit flush in the plate. Spax screws and GRK R4 screws are great for this.
@@turbotension True, but testing on the reinforcing plate from Schlage has shown that it's sufficient for your normal forcing attacks....perhaps not enough for driving a forklift through but then again, who's driving a forklift to your door? haha, Great input nevertheless.
Thanks for turning off the sound for the drilling parts. Hardly anyone thinks to do that in these how-to videos, but good production skills make a huge difference. This was helpful, thank you.
Easy to follow and easy to understand the steps. I used to install entry doors about four years ago and am doing one today. This is exactly the refresher course I needed. ✌🏼❤️
Great job all around with your video. Short, clear explanations with your demonstrating, silencing the drill noise, easy to follow. Gave it a like and subscribed. Thank you!
Thank you for showing this. I'm frantically trying to install the last of my Mother's door locks and the strike plate my Dad previously installed will not allow the dead bolt to enter. I was able to insert the dead bolt into the existing hole but the size of the new strike plate needed to be chiseled longer, or up and down. I'm thankful to know I can just chisel it so thank you.
I was already considering using paint or some other goop to find where the bolt will strike, but I rather like your toothpaste idea. Much easier to clean up. Thanks for the tip and the video!
You could also use a combination square, set it on the edge of the door, push the rule part through till it meets the bolt, tighten, then put the square on the jamb, mark where the rule ends, this method will only work if the door & jamb are level.
Important to make this the LAST step in the door/lockset installation, i.e. the insulation strips around the door should be in place to guage the correct depth at which the strike plate will be installed: too loose (far out) and the insulation won't seal, too snug (far in) and it will be hard to close the door.
Hello. I’d just use sand paper to knock down the edge to give it a nice curve. Perhaps the pros have a different method, but sand paper seems like an easy and fast method. Thanks for the question.
A half-inch router bit used with a router & guide is how it's professionally done, but that's a lot of expense for one or two doors. I've made a round chisel using a 3-inch piece of 3/4"-steel conduit. File the edge to make it sharp, then use it as a chisel in all 4 strike plate corners. It will cut the 1/4-round circle.
@@FastFixTH-cam 🤣🤣🤣 Here I am scrolling the comments, trying to find out what the heck is with that lever? What have I missed?! I'm trying to learn and it appeared my assumption of how levers go was wrong as I noticed yours in this video teaching others, and no one commented about it. 🤔😂
Tips for ya : After your done tracing out the template u can cut it with a utility knife first then use the chisel that way the stricke plate can fit perfect with no gaps!
The security plate will give better protection if the screws are put closer to the center of the stud wall by rotating the plate 180 degrees. As installed here, they are very close to the edge and easy for a burglar to bust through
Great video, but upvote for the first twenty seconds alone. No BS, no cheesy graphics, told me what the video was about and who should watch it. Straight to the point, well done.
i always use a sharp razor knife to cut the outline of the plate - first screw the plate in place then cut around it to get nice lines to follow up with !
Make the hole as small as possible to accommodate the deadbolt regardless of the strike opening. It will be much stronger and in interior applications you may not even need a strike plate depending on your finishing skills.
Thank you, Tiffany! I very much appreciate the kind words and the like. It really is the best way to support my videos. I’m glad the video helped you and I hope you have a great day!
yes, the long screws are on the wrong side of the strike plate. You need to redo that. You want them in the center of the 2x4 framing, not the edge. The edge will break easily when someone brute kicks in the door.
Hello. Thank you for the comment. I have redone the incorrect placement of the screws. If someone decides to brute the door, they better also have body armor 😵😂
I don't believe in tooth brushing, as it is sinful. So I'll have to purchase some toothpaste specifically for this woodworking task. Can this be done with any toothpaste, or only the kind which has fluoride? Will the type made for sensitive teeth work as well? How about whitening toothpaste? There are just so many choices at the Piggly Wiggly.
The security plate should have been screws next to the inside door frame and the lever handle was facing out. I did like hw he started his chisel in the midddle and worked down and up I will try that next time.
Good clean work. One suggestion: deepen the bolt hole a little more than needed- this allows for room if the door shifts/swells/etc. And yes 3" screws on the strike.Good vid
Hmm. How do I fill in an old strike plate hole from an old door, with that hole just below where the new hole would be. Seems problematic. Like I need a new frame. Maybe there is away.
I have a metal door with a metal door frame that I want to install a dead bolt on. How hard do you think it would be to cut away the metal on the door frame to install the strike plate and do you have any tips for that?
Just butchered my first attempt although it works but remembered your video. Wish I had watched it first LOL. Have one more to do and I think you've empowered me...
Can I do the same thing to the door itself? My problem is that my door has the circle hole where the faceplate is supposed to be but it needs to have the standard rectangular one so I can install a smart lock.
Hello. There should be kits/templates that will allow you to accomplish that. So, the edge of the door where the bolt extends out needs to be a rectangle instead of a circle?
Hey bro, I have salvaged tools. I have a B&D drill but don't have that bit that makes a hole. What is it called please? Is there anyway to make the hole if that bit is not there? Any way to improvise?
Hello. Getting the bit is by far your best option. They are relatively cheap. It’s called a hole saw bit or auger bit. Both names are accurate. It’s 1” in diameter.
I don’t know why you didn’t drill the pilot holes before you did the checkout, you had it marked when you traced out the plate then chiseled it away. The toothpaste is a good idea to know where the bolt will fit, I’m going to remember that one. Also there are striker plate jigs that hammer in the border cut without the risk of splitting away the timber close to the edge and can use for doors and door jambs.
So i have a question, hopefully you can answer cause i cant really find a solution anywhere...my problem is that the wood inside where the "plate" would go is gone, so i cant screw in a plate in, which causes the door to just open and close easily even when its locked because i cant put a plate there to hold the latch. Im basically looking for how to refill that hole, i was thinking about dry wall? But i honestly have no idea about any of this, so hopefully you can help.
Hello. That’s pretty strange that the wood is gone. Where did it go? Kidding aside, I would not fill with drywall. It’s not durable enough to hold a strike plate over time and provides little to no security as it’s very breakable. I’d either replace the entire door frame (or just that side) or fill with wood. Strange that the wood is gone. Did someone damage the door frame?
@@FastFixTH-cam Lol Its all good, but yeah i guess it was just old because it just started breaking off into pieces when i tried to screw it in. I tried to put a small block of wood in there, but it ended up breaking over time.
Do you use the same drill piece included in the kit to drill on the side of the door for the deadbolt to come out the same one on the door frame for the entrance into the strike plate?
Hello. Both hole boring bits are included in the kit. You'll use the larger sized one for the door to create an opening for the deadbolt. The smaller sized one is used to create a void in the door itself (to house the bolt contraption) and into the door jab for the bolt to extend into. So the answer to your question (as I understand it) is yes. Best of luck!
I keep a tube of lipstick in my toolbox just for marking things like you did with the toothpaste. This isn't advisable to do with the wife's favorite makeup though...
Thanks for uploading this video it's super helpful! I just had a quick question, we're trying to reinforce our door they've had break-ins but we've noticed the wood where the screws were scrumbled as we took them out so now we have to make room for a longer strike plate I assume but we're also having a problem stripping the screws bc it's been hard to get the wood screws to easily screw in. Any tips I see you made a hole first will that help ? Thanks again
Hello. I’m not sure I’m totally understanding your problem. Are you saying that there’s not enough wood or the wood is damaged to the point where the screws won’t grab securely?
Hello. The tool is called a chisel. You can find them at most home improvement stores or Harbor Freight which is where I got mine. Thanks for the question.
I use a felt round for cabinet doors. Just stick the felt on the bolt center and use a sharpie to color it. Then shut door and work bolt untill it marks the door jam.Easy Peasy!!
@@FastFixTH-cam it will, I am renovating my entire second floor and replacing 9 doors that the previous owners had the hinges mounted way to high so im filling those holes and putting the new spot where it should be located and getting the exact position will be easier with your trick, I was just going to line it up on the trim and mark the spot and draw a line in. Thx!
In addition to longer screws, the screws should have been placed with the strike plate rotated 180 degrees so there is more wood between the screws and the inside edge of the door. Having the screws so close to the edge is going to make it much easier to kick the door in. This is the reason the screws are not centered in the strike plate, to provide more distance to the edge and therefor more wood to prevent a kick in.
@@FastFixTH-cam Update: I was able to move the regular door latch strike with no problem. The deadbolt is more complicated. I don't want the jamb to look like somebody hacked it up with an axe so I will probably bring in a pro to do that part.
Using that chisel the wrong way. Flat faces towards you. I guess if it's your college dorm who cares. Don't get paid for a job of you don't know what you're doing.
Nice! Just a tip, the long 3" screws should have been installed on the doorstop side (the side where the weather stripping is). This ensures that you not only grab the 2X4s, but you also have the maximum amount of it to prevent forced entry. Also, I'd recommend making the hole in the jamb for the deadbolt more oblong (top to bottom) this helps with shifting foundations. You can do this by marking the centre of the hole, and stitching 2 1" diameter holes together and chisel for cleanup to make it look professional.
Great stuff here. I'm going to pin your comment to the top of the list. Thanks for the helpful information!
The screws are only as good as the plate itself. Good screws with massive shear loads will hold but the end of that strike plate will just pop out. Obviously, every door has it’s limits too. When I do this I try and use a #10x3 but have done #12x4 on garage doors. Usually whatever will sit flush in the plate. Spax screws and GRK R4 screws are great for this.
@@turbotension True, but testing on the reinforcing plate from Schlage has shown that it's sufficient for your normal forcing attacks....perhaps not enough for driving a forklift through but then again, who's driving a forklift to your door? haha, Great input nevertheless.
instablaster.
p
Thanks for turning off the sound for the drilling parts. Hardly anyone thinks to do that in these how-to videos, but good production skills make a huge difference. This was helpful, thank you.
Haha, true. I “forgot” on the first few videos I’ve done, but have remembered since. Thanks for the nice comment 👍
Yes!!! That drives me insane too! I make sure to remove it in my videos!!
Grow tf up
Agreed! Such a cool editing touch.
I like how considerate this man is by muting the audio of the drilling part.
You are welcome! Always something I couldn’t understand why others didn’t do. Thanks for the comment 👍
Easy to follow and easy to understand the steps. I used to install entry doors about four years ago and am doing one today. This is exactly the refresher course I needed. ✌🏼❤️
Glad to hear that! Best of luck on the install!
I'm in the middle of a project right now, and you just confirmed my next move. Thanks for the straight forward video! I just subscribed!
You bet! I appreciate the comment 👍
Great job all around with your video. Short, clear explanations with your demonstrating, silencing the drill noise, easy to follow. Gave it a like and subscribed. Thank you!
I appreciate that! Thanks 👍
Thank you. This video gave me the exact info I needed in my first search on the topic. The toothpaste technique is a absolute time saver!
You are welcome! Glad the video was of some help. I appreciate the comment 👍
Thank you for showing this. I'm frantically trying to install the last of my Mother's door locks and the strike plate my Dad previously installed will not allow the dead bolt to enter. I was able to insert the dead bolt into the existing hole but the size of the new strike plate needed to be chiseled longer, or up and down.
I'm thankful to know I can just chisel it so thank you.
Absolutely! I’m glad this helped solve your problem. Thanks for the comment 👍
I was already considering using paint or some other goop to find where the bolt will strike, but I rather like your toothpaste idea. Much easier to clean up. Thanks for the tip and the video!
You had the right idea! I had toothpaste nearby for some reason and the idea just hit me. Best of luck on your install!
@@FastFixTH-cam Thanks! I definitely feel more confident in doing it after watching your videos. :)
You could also use a combination square, set it on the edge of the door, push the rule part through till it meets the bolt, tighten, then put the square on the jamb, mark where the rule ends,
this method will only work if the door & jamb are level.
Those are exactly the chisels I got from harbor freight too great video thanks for the advice and info and etc etc etc etc
Haha, yup! Harbor freight for the win...again. Thanks for the comment 👍
Pretty well presented but why is your door lever mounted backwards?
Haha, you’re the second one to catch that! It has since been installed properly.
v This method of marking is actually strait forward no messing around.
Great video, very helpful
Thank you!
Awesome video homie
Thanks! Comment appreciated 👍
Super ,thank you very much , sab and like afcourse.
Thank you! Much appreciated 👍
Important to make this the LAST step in the door/lockset installation, i.e. the insulation strips around the door should be in place to guage the correct depth at which the strike plate will be installed: too loose (far out) and the insulation won't seal, too snug (far in) and it will be hard to close the door.
Absolutely. Great advice! Thank you 👍
That's a good tip. Thanks for sharing🙏
Your vid helped me . Thanks
Glad to hear that! I appreciate the comment 👍
Great explanation. Could you please help me understand how can i make the edge curve?
Hello. I’d just use sand paper to knock down the edge to give it a nice curve. Perhaps the pros have a different method, but sand paper seems like an easy and fast method. Thanks for the question.
A half-inch router bit used with a router & guide is how it's professionally done, but that's a lot of expense for one or two doors. I've made a round chisel using a 3-inch piece of 3/4"-steel conduit. File the edge to make it sharp, then use it as a chisel in all 4 strike plate corners. It will cut the 1/4-round circle.
What to do if you have a latch hole that is incorreclty measured and must be redone? Can you fill it with wood filler and redrill the hole?
how much wood was removed? Or, how much wood filler would you be using? Too much will crack and screws will not be secure.
@@FastFixTH-cam 1 1/2 length, 1 inch width, 1/2 inch depth.
If this is a big hole to be filled with filler, what would be other solutions?
Why is your door handle going the wrong direction?
Because I installed it upside down. The wife pointed it out and it’s good now.
Amazed that hardly anyone picked up on the door handle being the wrong way in the comments 😂😂😂
🤣🤣🤣 right, I wish someone would’ve told me!
How did you get the wood plug out after using the hole saw?
Hello. It actually comes out in the hole saw bit 👍
@@FastFixTH-cam There must have been separate layers of wood in that door frame. The hole saw won't cut the bottom of a hole, right?
Good video. But why is the door handle backward?
Great question! Simple answer is, I somehow installed it wrong and didn’t notice. It has since been corrected.
right handed lever type door lock installed at left handed door! hehe. joking
Great video!
I've never seen the doorlatch lever positioned like that... does it work better for you in this position?
🤣🤣🤣 this is by far the best shade thrown at my upside down door handle. Bravo good sir! 👍
@@FastFixTH-cam 🤣🤣🤣 Here I am scrolling the comments, trying to find out what the heck is with that lever? What have I missed?! I'm trying to learn and it appeared my assumption of how levers go was wrong as I noticed yours in this video teaching others, and no one commented about it. 🤔😂
What size hole saw
Hello. 1” on this one.
What is the size of you bit drill. 1 inch?
Correct!
good stuff man
Thank you!
Thank n.g
You’re welcome p.z 👍
Handle is backwards
The wife called that out and it has since been corrected. I kinda liked it…
Toothpaste! Brilliant! Water soluble, easily cleaned. hehe
Hello. Ha ha ha exactly! Plus it has that minty fresh smell. Lol thanks for commenting and have a fantastic day!
Good hack, but would be a better look if you had the door lever in the correct orientation toward the inside of the door, not the outside.
Hello. Yes….My wife said as much when she saw the handle. It has since been remedied. Thanks for the comment 👍
Tips for ya : After your done tracing out the template u can cut it with a utility knife first then use the chisel that way the stricke plate can fit perfect with no gaps!
Good tip! Appreciated!
another tip , dont trace it screw the plate where it goes and that will give you a metal edge to trace around with your razor then chisel away.
@@joemaiuro3647 if you trace the plate - the space will be a bit too big-
How would a gap be left if you only use a chisel to make the strike plate divot ?
Not if a razor is used
The security plate will give better protection if the screws are put closer to the center of the stud wall by rotating the plate 180 degrees. As installed here, they are very close to the edge and easy for a burglar to bust through
Love the backwards install on the handle.
Yes, it was a big hit! 🤣
Great video, but upvote for the first twenty seconds alone. No BS, no cheesy graphics, told me what the video was about and who should watch it. Straight to the point, well done.
Appreciated! 👍👍👍
Great video. I really liked it. Easy to follow. I just had the video running while I was doing the job. I saved $190. Thanks.
Always good to hear money saving stories! I’m also glad you found this video through the first one!
Why is the handle to the door the wrong way around?
The honest answer is because I installed it wrong. No other reason except negligence and a bad eye for improperly installed door handles...
i always use a sharp razor knife to cut the outline of the plate - first screw the plate in place then cut around it to get nice lines to follow up with !
Good advice! 👍👍👍
Make the hole as small as possible to accommodate the deadbolt regardless of the strike opening.
It will be much stronger and in interior applications you may not even need a strike plate depending on your finishing skills.
True story! 👍
False. Entryway should always have a plate and extended screws
I don’t usually leave comments but this video was so helpful and informative that leaving a like and comment was the least that I could do. Thank you
Thank you, Tiffany! I very much appreciate the kind words and the like. It really is the best way to support my videos. I’m glad the video helped you and I hope you have a great day!
Why is your handle facing the wrong way? Curious.
Hello. I live in Australia and that’s how all of our door handles are. LOL, no I just didn’t realize I had installed it upside backwards. 🤦♂️
I noticed the handle also! :)
yes, the long screws are on the wrong side of the strike plate. You need to redo that. You want them in the center of the 2x4 framing, not the edge. The edge will break easily when someone brute kicks in the door.
Hello. Thank you for the comment. I have redone the incorrect placement of the screws. If someone decides to brute the door, they better also have body armor 😵😂
I don't believe in tooth brushing, as it is sinful. So I'll have to purchase some toothpaste specifically for this woodworking task.
Can this be done with any toothpaste, or only the kind which has fluoride? Will the type made for sensitive teeth work as well? How about whitening toothpaste?
There are just so many choices at the Piggly Wiggly.
A tough conundrum you are in. I’d skip the toothpaste All together and use lipstick or maybe Mayo. I hear Heinz works best. 🤣🤣👍
The security plate should have been screws next to the inside door frame and the lever handle was facing out. I did like hw he started his chisel in the midddle and worked down and up I will try that next time.
Haha, yeah you’re the 3rd one to bust me on the door handle. Not sure how I didn’t catch that... thanks for the comment! 👍
Good clean work.
One suggestion: deepen the bolt hole a little more than needed- this allows for room if the door shifts/swells/etc. And yes 3" screws on the strike.Good vid
Thanks! I appreciate the suggestion 👍
Hmm. How do I fill in an old strike plate hole from an old door, with that hole just below where the new hole would be. Seems problematic. Like I need a new frame. Maybe there is away.
Other than removing the frame, I’d cut out and trim a piece of wood then glue it, sand, and paint. Should cover it up fairly well.
Thank you for the easy tutorial. The only change I will make is useing nail polish.
Hello! You’re welcome! Nailpolish, toothpaste, pasta sauce… all work! 😂👍
I have a metal door with a metal door frame that I want to install a dead bolt on. How hard do you think it would be to cut away the metal on the door frame to install the strike plate and do you have any tips for that?
Hello. Sorry, I’ve never attempted to do what you’re describing. Appreciate the question!
You have your handle on backwards on the door behind you, the handle is sticking past the door
Yes…my wife caught that and it’s remedied!
I saw someone else use lipstick on the dead bolt which seemed to work well also. Great video!
Haha, yes I can see lipstick working just as well. 👍
3 eighths of an inch. 7 sixteenths of an inch. What a horrible measurement system 🤢🤮
Haha, no lie!
Thank god a someone who can edit a video for the key points. Good job Fast Fix.
Thank you sir! I appreciate the comment 👍
Just butchered my first attempt although it works but remembered your video. Wish I had watched it first LOL. Have one more to do and I think you've empowered me...
Best of lucky, Cindy! The nice thing is, the door jab isn’t something people or you see often. Let me know how it goes!
Ridiculously helpful! Such a clear explanation :)
Good to hear! I appreciate the comment!
fostner bits my people. you can drill those corners perfect and chisel out the rest.
Yes, that’s very true. Good tip 👍
Here's how you do a YT vid. Short and sweet and no extra fluff. And muting the volume when operating noisy power tools. Thankyou for a helpful vid 👏
No problem! Thanks for the comment. And yes, my thoughts exactly! Happy New Year.
3:23 dude you turned off the sound at the worst possible time
Hello. I did? I thought I was saving eardrums by muting it. Lol my bad if I left out some info! Thanks for commenting and have a great day.
Can I do the same thing to the door itself? My problem is that my door has the circle hole where the faceplate is supposed to be but it needs to have the standard rectangular one so I can install a smart lock.
Hello. There should be kits/templates that will allow you to accomplish that. So, the edge of the door where the bolt extends out needs to be a rectangle instead of a circle?
@@FastFixTH-cam yes, most doors have it "carved" but not my door.
You do know you have the door knob handle on upside down don’t you?
After my wife told me I did. Haha
Great video!! What’s the size of the hole saw used?
I believe it was 1” if I recall. Should say on the packaging if you’re shopping for a kit like the one I used. 👍
Your door handle is the wrong way :)))
Sure was! The wife caught that and I never would have.
Why is your lever installed backwards
Simple answer is because I eff’d it up. It has since been remedied 👍
This door handle has been installed back to front.
The wife caught that too. It has since been remedied.
HAAAA!! Freaking genius!!! I was gonna use paint or whiteout!! Toothpaste I have a lot of! Thanks bro!!
Lol, you bet! 👍👍👍
Hey bro, I have salvaged tools. I have a B&D drill but don't have that bit that makes a hole. What is it called please? Is there anyway to make the hole if that bit is not there? Any way to improvise?
Hello. Getting the bit is by far your best option. They are relatively cheap. It’s called a hole saw bit or auger bit. Both names are accurate. It’s 1” in diameter.
Great video! I am not much of a handy man so I always wondered how difficult that was. Looks pretty easy!
It's not bad at all. This was my third time doing this job, so I had little experience as well. Thanks for the comment!
I don’t know why you didn’t drill the pilot holes before you did the checkout, you had it marked when you traced out the plate then chiseled it away. The toothpaste is a good idea to know where the bolt will fit, I’m going to remember that one. Also there are striker plate jigs that hammer in the border cut without the risk of splitting away the timber close to the edge and can use for doors and door jambs.
Ohh, that’s a good tip. Splintering the wood is the biggest threat in doing this. Nice. Thanks for the suggestion 👍
So i have a question, hopefully you can answer cause i cant really find a solution anywhere...my problem is that the wood inside where the "plate" would go is gone, so i cant screw in a plate in, which causes the door to just open and close easily even when its locked because i cant put a plate there to hold the latch. Im basically looking for how to refill that hole, i was thinking about dry wall? But i honestly have no idea about any of this, so hopefully you can help.
Hello. That’s pretty strange that the wood is gone. Where did it go? Kidding aside, I would not fill with drywall. It’s not durable enough to hold a strike plate over time and provides little to no security as it’s very breakable. I’d either replace the entire door frame (or just that side) or fill with wood. Strange that the wood is gone. Did someone damage the door frame?
@@FastFixTH-cam Lol Its all good, but yeah i guess it was just old because it just started breaking off into pieces when i tried to screw it in. I tried to put a small block of wood in there, but it ended up breaking over time.
Why is the door handle on backwards??
I goofed it up and didn’t notice….my wife did, however and it has since been remedied.
wait why is your lever on the wrong side???
Opposite Day that day. I just had a brain fart…
Toothpaste that’s gotta be the cleanest way ever
🤣🤣🤣👍
Thank you so much! You made the mortise cut very easy, even
for a 72 years old female.
Wonderful! Glad to hear that. Nice job! Love reading comments like this ☺️👍👍👍
Is it me or is the handle on the wrong way round.
It’s you………haha, no you’re right. Handle was on backwards. I’d have never noticed except for the wife telling me hours later….and the comments 👍
Toothpaste! Who would have known! Great work on this how-to!
Lol, right? Thanks for the comment!
Lipstick works well for this too!
what if it's not an f-ing dead bolt???????
I’d search TH-cam
Do you use the same drill piece included in the kit to drill on the side of the door for the deadbolt to come out the same one on the door frame for the entrance into the strike plate?
Hello. Both hole boring bits are included in the kit. You'll use the larger sized one for the door to create an opening for the deadbolt. The smaller sized one is used to create a void in the door itself (to house the bolt contraption) and into the door jab for the bolt to extend into. So the answer to your question (as I understand it) is yes. Best of luck!
This is exactly the information I needed. Nice job explaining and editing!
Thank you! Glad it helped 👍
Why did you install the lever like that?
Brain fart…caught it later. Of course the damage was done and been catching hell every since!
how come the door handle is on wrong way
Ehh, just wanted to mess with the wife. It only lasted a day…. 😂
I keep a tube of lipstick in my toolbox just for marking things like you did with the toothpaste. This isn't advisable to do with the wife's favorite makeup though...
Ha! Indeed! 🤣🤣🤣
My contractor said to use Sensodyne as some frames have feelings. I’m more of a lipstick guy. Cherry red. Don’t judge me.
😂😂😂 I suppose I should’ve asked the frame it’s preference. Sorry man, I do have to judge. Everyone knows Hot Pink is a much better color.
Thanks for uploading this video it's super helpful! I just had a quick question, we're trying to reinforce our door they've had break-ins but we've noticed the wood where the screws were scrumbled as we took them out so now we have to make room for a longer strike plate I assume but we're also having a problem stripping the screws bc it's been hard to get the wood screws to easily screw in. Any tips I see you made a hole first will that help ? Thanks again
Hello. I’m not sure I’m totally understanding your problem. Are you saying that there’s not enough wood or the wood is damaged to the point where the screws won’t grab securely?
Yes,when we took out the orig screws the holes kinda crumbled so there's no wood space below each of the holes now
I just assumed we'd have to find a longer strike plate since we can't securely screw the longer nails into the crumbled old wood holes
Forreal, dope video. Consice, no extra fluff no filler. I can f@#$ with that! Try and get the shortest ad reads when you blow up to match!
No doubt! Cut the bs and just do it, right? Thanks man 👍
What is the name of the tool you used to chip the wood, I didn't get the name of it
Hello. The tool is called a chisel. You can find them at most home improvement stores or Harbor Freight which is where I got mine. Thanks for the question.
Thanks first interior door install
You bet! Glad it helped 👍
I dont have that kind of toothpaste.
Not to worry! Whitening, sensitive, enamel building, cavity fighting, plaque fighting, breath helping, and any brand all work! 🤣🤣👍
I use a felt round for cabinet doors. Just stick the felt on the bolt center and use a sharpie to color it. Then shut door and work bolt untill it marks the door jam.Easy Peasy!!
Oh yep, that would well too. Thanks for the suggestion 👍
I think lipstick would work
Definitely would! Just be careful about staining.
Was the handle on the door at start on back to front 😂
Yup. Never gonna hear the end of it either. 😂🤣😂
It is very useful for me to follow. I wonded how I coulde make a hole on a door frame. Now I underastand what I need to buy tools for this task.
Glad it was helpful!
Toothpaste great idea for marking!
Thanks! I hope this helps you. I appreciate your comment! 👍👍👍
@@FastFixTH-cam it will, I am renovating my entire second floor and replacing 9 doors that the previous owners had the hinges mounted way to high so im filling those holes and putting the new spot where it should be located and getting the exact position will be easier with your trick, I was just going to line it up on the trim and mark the spot and draw a line in. Thx!
It's not "Walla" ( at 2:26 ). It's the French word "voilà" pronounced \vwä-ˈlä\ or \vwah-LAH\ and meaning "there (or here) it is."
🤣 love it!
Saw your video. Did something like this for the first time. Impressed with the result. Thank you. But had to do a little bit of caulking too.
Glad this helped! Ehh, a little caulking isn’t too bad. Been there done that!
In addition to longer screws, the screws should have been placed with the strike plate rotated 180 degrees so there is more wood between the screws and the inside edge of the door. Having the screws so close to the edge is going to make it much easier to kick the door in.
This is the reason the screws are not centered in the strike plate, to provide more distance to the edge and therefor more wood to prevent a kick in.
Good info 👍
This was the video I was looking for, thank you so much!
Glad it was helpful!
I guess my chisel's suck lol
Mine aren’t much better. Harbor Freight specials!
I like the toothpaste method!
Thanks! I appreciate the comment 👍
Why is the door handle backwards?
I installed it backwards. Not to worry, my wife quickly discovered the error and it has been corrected. 👍
@@FastFixTH-cam thanks for the reply. Surprised I was the only comment to mention it.
I have to move a deadbolt strike plate about 1/2”. I’ll use your technique(and a new chisel set) and hope for the best.
Best of luck! Just take your time and be careful. Feel free to let me know how it goes 👍
@@FastFixTH-cam Update: I was able to move the regular door latch strike with no problem. The deadbolt is more complicated. I don't want the jamb to look like somebody hacked it up with an axe so I will probably bring in a pro to do that part.
Yup, totally understand that! Good job 👍
Great job. Ty.
You bet! Thanks for the comment 👍
Using that chisel the wrong way. Flat faces towards you. I guess if it's your college dorm who cares. Don't get paid for a job of you don't know what you're doing.
Dear Randall: eff yourself again