Very nice video. Top 1% of TH-cam videos: no music, no rambling and talking to yourself, clear speaking so I can understand you, and good camera work. You did a very nice job. Thanks.
After watching this video I thought it would be a piece of cake. But as starchaser28 wrote, it took 8 hours. The valve is very difficult to reach. I drained the coolant first. Taking the hoses off the valve was a royal pain. I had to get a small vice grip to release the hose clamp. And then more coolant comes out when you do get the hose off. Wear eye protection and probably a dust mask. I had some coolant splash into my mouth, luckily not my eyes. I never could figure out how to burp the system. I followed the directions but nothing happened. After 8 hours of shear frustration I finally decided to just drive to the dealer and have them do it. While it did cost $200 to run a full diagnostic and burp the system (unbelievable, right?), it was going to cost $750 to replace the valve. So I guess I should be glad I did save some money, but again, it was very frustrating for me and I had many moments of regretting starting the work. I hope this helps people so they know what they are getting into.
Oh man, sorry you ran in to trouble. I watched every YT video out there on the job, and got mine done in 1.5-2 hours, and I really suck at automotive stuff. I know that you posted this 3 years ago, and most likely there have been more videos surface since. I used vice grips to remove the hose clamps and kinda just twisted the hoses off. The electrical connection was a real pain in the arse. Tight space, but if you remove the two bolts in the front of the inverter, you can wedge a 2x4 under the mounting brackets and give yourself a bit of room to maneuver some wrenches and pliers in there. I removed and replaced my pump from the bottom (car lifted on the drivers side).
We are so grateful to you for posting this video and giving great details! My husband and I were able to replace ours yesterday in less than 2 hours and we saved a lot of money by doing it ourselves. We watched your video 3 times and were able to follow your steps perfectly! Thank you so much for sharing this :)
This is so much better than most auto repair videos. Great job. I just got the P1121 DTC check engine light on my 2009 Prius after it had sat in the garage for a few months without being started. I wasn't driving the car during the pandemic and the battery died. After I jumped it, the check engine light came on. I cleared the code using the Torque app and OBDlink LX adapter (great little gizmo). I drove the car a few miles and the code seems to stay cleared, but I'm afraid it might come back. The only reason I started it was I need to get the car smogged and it will fail if there are any Check Engine DTC errors. Nice to know if the light comes back on I'll have this handy video to help me thru the repair, so the dealershit can't "relieve my wallet of $500"
I just replaced my inverter pump on my 2008 Toyota Prius with about 154,000 miles. I went through the bumper cover & headlight method. Pretty easy and much less than $750 my dealership wanted including flushing and replenishing the coolant! In my opinion, it made sense to completely drain and replenish the coolant at the same time. Love my Prius, TH-cam and Amazon make driving and owning my Prius even more affordable!
Thanks for the video! I did the repair yesterday in under 3 hours and saved myself over $450:) I used some scissor type hose clamps found at O'Reilly auto parts and didn't loose much coolant. I tried the trick shown of removing the small hose to the right of the oil dipstick while filling the coolant, but coolant just started spilling out of the disconnected tube.
This replacement can be done from the top side. No need to jack up the vehicle and remove the air shields. Take off the plastic cover over the radiator under the hood as shown in the video.Remove the upper radiator hose above the valve area and tuck it to the left out of the way. Unbolt the device that looks like a tire valve stem and tuck it out of the way to the left. This gives you enough room to disconnect all three hoses and the electrical connection. It also provides enough room to remove the valve assembly up through the opening and to reinstall the new one. I did this in less than 4 hours total start to finish including re fill, tool clean up, test drive, refill etc. I am not a pro mechanic but I do have a lot of tools. You will need various size pliers to loosen the hose clamps. One of those cable operated hose clamp removal tools would be probably be ideal for this job. I reused the coolant. If you want to fully change it then you will need to jack up the vehicle, remove the plastic air dams, etc.
Thank you for posting this! Very clear instructions. I just followed it through step by step and it fixed theP1121 code issue on my 05 with 210k miles. It took me about 8 hours to do but in the end has saved me $400 - $500! The check engine light turned off on it's own between inspection mode cycles. This is just great, thanks!
Thanks for taking the time to post this video. You saved me a lot of aggravation. I replaced my 3-way today in my 2007 Prius. I was able to remove it from the top by separating the metal bracket from the housing, which is held on by 3 Phillips head screws. I removed the bracket on the new switch before inserting under the maze of hoses and the reassembled it. I can now get my emissions test.
Big thanks for putting this DIY vid together; saved me loads of time, energy and $. I learned lots from your successes and hiccups. Everyone makes their journey to success in their own way; some with lots of nicks and scrapes, and you wonderfully remind us of that. Showing us your unsuccessful venture of using hose clamps and force-running the engine, was well worth your time in vid procurement and my time in watching this [infact, a few times]. I chose to do my invertor pump without hose clamps and i purchased a set of long needle nose plyers. Took me ~ 2hrs with re-flushing the coolant for both engine and inverter, running solid now. Big thanks.
Great video, many thanks. My shop wants $430 to replace this. Found valve on ebay for $70, and will try when I get that. Only thing that could have made it a bit better would have been to actually show the process of removing first hose to bleed coolant system (start/stop engine? open while filling cold/hot?. Ditto for the allen head screw bleed, how to use, running, not, etc. But many thanks for all the great info!
man, just got done with mine. I swear that the electrical connection was the toughest part of the whole job. I lost a little bit of antifreeze, and I can hear the bubblin' when I start the car. I have learned to really burp the system to a T, you have to drive it, let it cool down, open the radiator cap, fill, and repeat the process until you don't hear the bubblin' on start up. Real pain in the arse. Can't believe that my local stealership charges $450 to do this job. I bought the part from the stealership for $90 out the door (and that is with a military discount). Took me 1.5-2 hrs to do the job, and I suck with automotive. It is gonna take me a week to burp the system, as I have come to learn. To all that are considering this work; you can do it, just make sure that you have the tools ready. I got my fluid hose clamps at Harbor Freight for $8. Your gonna need some vice grips or some really long needle nose pliers (for the hose clamps), socket set, antifreeze (Toyota species), and some time. I pulled and replaced my pump from the bottom of the car. I also jacked my driver side up to get better clearance to do the work. All in all I saved $360, and if you break that down to an hourly wage, that is $180 and hour (considering what the stealership charges)! If you make well more than that an hour, take your Prius into the stealership, if not, DIY!!!!!!! Just watch all the YT videos out there respective to the job. You got this! If I can do it, you can too! With respect to the check engine light, mine did not disappear immediately. It took a few start ups then it disappeared. Also, the error code will still exist (if using a error code reader) after all is well. I had the local auto parts shop check mine even after the check engine light went off (after the job), and it still read P11121. The only way to clear the code is to have a savvy auto parts store person clear the code (if knowledgeable and willing) or have the stealership do it for, most likely, $200+, or lastly if you have a error code reader that can clear the codes and DIY.
Hi, excellent info, especially on bleeding the coolant after replacement. Would really have liked detailed video, with tools, sockets, busted knuckles, etc. on actually getting the hoses off and the valve unbolted (bottom bolt very hard to get to, need really fine tooth ratchet). Did you unbolt, then remove hoses, or some hoses, did you put hoses back on before or after bolting new valve in place?
eh ! el vato! ... -Thank you for the video! I was able to get it out from the top! And I plugged the hoses one by one with large fine thread bolts and reclamped them with the spring clamps. I lost a minimum amount of coolant to the catch pan. I'm reluctant and concerned about putting the car into gasoline only mode as you don't give the reverse steps procedure. I'll be looking and reading all the comments. Again Thank you so far. -Dizzy Dan
Great video! I'm stuck on one part. I have a 2009 Toyota Prius. The bleeder valve was not located where the video stated. there was a spot for the hex wrench in the same place as the video, but there was no valve sticking out from it. Can you tell me where that is? Thanks!
so my code reader is also bringing up code p1121 and p1116 for the coolant temp sensor circuit stack for coolant heat storage system. will the one part clear both codes. I don't see any other videos and the picture that pops up for bothering codes shows the same diagram of the cooling system
I have a causation for anyone that dose this work themselves, which I did. When you are driving the air out of the system it may be required to do it several times. I thought that I did a good job in getting all the air out and drove the car and got an emergency alarm stating to stop driving the car. I came back to my garage in burped the system again and got more air out again, not much, just a few bubbles. I did this three times until it was solid with no air (bubbles) in the system. So make sure there is no bubbles in the system at all. Then everything worked fine. It is a good repair and can save you a lot of money by not having the dealer do the work if your are capable of doing it yourself.
Was the coolant leaking from the top two hoses or just the bottom one? It looks like you only clamped the bottom one with a pair of pliers, so I am wondering if the pinching would work properly if you used an actual hose clamp on all three hoses.
I should add that it is very important to place the constant tension clamps in exactly the same spot they came off of, when you put them back on, otherwise the hose could leak. this has happened to me on more than one occasion.
Thanks for posting! I will try this on my own soon. One question... where do you look for bubbles in the coolest system? How do you know if it's clear?
Derek, when you start the car after it has been sitting for a hot minute, you will hear bubbling. Fill the radiator as much as it can take, drive it around as usual, let the car cool down, fill it up again.... repeat process until you don't hear the bubbling. Pain in the arse, I know, but this is what I did. Also, you might wanna hit your A/C on high heat while during your drives to really open everything up.
does this car had any excessive oil consumption prior the replacement of these parts? because i went to toyota dealer and they asked me to replace these parts after the diagnostic (as a start point:) but they dont know what caused the excessive engine oil lost. i drew only 1k miles after the oil change and they said there was no oil and after they add an oil it was back to normal . i have 07 prius base
i assume you had no issues after this repair and driving it around? i have the same issue and am thinking about doing it my self. hopefully i can get the hose clamp to work.
I am having a huge problem with my Toyota Prius 07. the drain cock of the coolant heat storage tank is broken. and i really don't want to replace the tank because it is still in a good shape. is there someway I can get the valve covering the tank without having to replace it completely
Thank you for the awesome video! I changed the valve and it seems working, but the dead triangle light went on couple of times when I was driving. Do you have any clue?
I realize that's an old post, but I'll answer it for people with the problem now or in the future. The red triangle of death lights up on the dash (and shows a yellow warning with a thermometer icon on the top left of the screen) when the coolant temp reaches 120C=248F. Get completely off the gas pedal immediately, because if you're giving it much gas (going uphill or driving on a highway) the temp can go to 130C in just another 5 or 10 seconds, where you start to risk blowing gaskets, warping the head, etc. I recommend having a "live data" display of coolant temp while driving with anything suspect about the cooling system, including while test driving after replacing coolant/pumps/whatever or bleeding it. I get this via having a Launch Creader Elite 200 OBDII scan tool plugged in as I drive, but just as good would be any WiFi or BlueTooth OBDII dongle (ELM327 chipset ones for under $20 are fine) and a free app such as Torque Lite on your phone, set to display a coolant temp gauge. I'd advise getting a dongle with a power on/off switch, so it doesn't drain your battery while the car is not in use, if you remember to turn it off. The OBDII port has continuous power, not switched with the car being on or off. And plugging/unplugging all the time risks damaging the car's OBDII connector. Both my 2005 Prius and 2017 Prius Prime hold the coolant temp around 90C=194F quite well (the 2005 maybe varying from 85C to 100C) when everything is normal. My 2005 recently was overheating due to coolant loss for unknown reasons (I hadn't needed to add any coolant since I bought it used in 2014, until now in 2022). Driving up a hill (maybe 100 feet elevation gain) at 40mph would make the coolant temp go from 110C to 120C in maybe 10 seconds and light the red triangle. After adding coolant and getting most air out, on the same hill it would start at 90C and be 94C at the top of the hill. Once I was sure it was mostly fixed, I went on the interstate highway for a while, with it holding 90C quite well at 55mph, 65mph, 70mph. Then I accelerated up a long hill from 65mph to 85mph and cruised to the top at 85mph. The temp started at 90C, never went above 97C, and was 90C at the top.
Hello Sir, thank you for posting . Can you help me on this. I have a Prius 2007 had the invertor pump changed at the dealer ( the pump dont look the same as what you show here though, but I think the question should be the same ) and upon collecting my car, the minute the key is inserted and start button pressed, there is this humming noise that comes on and it goes off when I shut down the system. I drove this car for more than 10 years and I didnt have this noise before as the hybrid system is totally silent when nothing is moving until the aircon or engine kicks in. I brought back to the dealer and have it checked. They confirmed the noise is coming from the new pump that had just been replaced, but they said the computer check didnt detect anything wrong with it and therefore it is ok. I on the other hands felt that something is not right since it was not like this before for 10 years. And it is not logical to me that the pump should be on all the time even when I was not in engaged mode. any such pump must be drawing power from somewhere in that case and I am afraid it will drain my battery. The dealer said they cannot do anything since the computer system check showed everything is normal. Can you please let me know if your Prius had the same humming noise or was it dead quiet when non engaged. Appreciate very much if you can give me some advice on this.
The inverter coolant pump action is normal, the sound is not. The sound is caused by air bubbles in the inverter coolant loop. It is easy to bleed the inverter coolant loop. EyeOnAiman did a good video on it at th-cam.com/video/X43ymVi1Aug/w-d-xo.html
I had the error code Prius P1121 and I replaced the coolant valve. I have proper amount of coolant but I am still hearing constant see-saw kind of noise from the valve, just like it did before it failed and threw the error. What could be the problem?
Hello, I have the light check on my Toyota Prius 2004, the code is P2601 : cooling pump control circuit range/performance, what's problem? Note: I've replaced cooling pump 3 holes, and cooling tank also. But still alert "check P2601".
My 2008 prius doesn't have the nipple where I open the 6mm Allen. I replaced the control valve but the CEL is still there and it still has the p1121 code. Any advice?
Hello, I have 2004 model toyota prius. When I power off my car then the electric motor just runs non stop for 1 hour daily. What happens to it? Please tell me a solution
question for you eallavato! after you had the car run the engine. did you do anything to bring it out of that mode, if so what steps would i need? and are you able to remove your foot from the brake after the symbol comes up telling you not to drive while the car is running that test? im looking to preform this coolant control valve soon, wanted to make sure i got full information. i noticed there was a number at end of video, would it be easier to call to get this and more additional information? thanks!
To bring it out of that special mode simply push the Power button once to turn off the car. And yes, once the symbol comes up you can remove the foot from the brake pedal. Good luck.
I have this project coming up to complete. You mentioned the car needs to be burped- so there isn't any air in the hoses. Will completing the tasks in the video help prevent those error lights from coming on after the jobs done. I've been quoted from my local dealership, if they have to bleed it for me after I get the errors it cost be 250.00 or more. Want to make sure it's done right the first time.
Sara Saylors The only error "lights" that the car was displaying was the "Check Engine Light", which when diagnosed with the Scanner was caused by the P1121 DTC. Have you diagnosed the issue to the P1121 code? From the nature of your questions, it sounds like you are not very comfortable working around cars. If you live near the San Fernando Valley, I would call Steve (number at the end of the video) and work something out with him. He has done this a number of times.
полезное видео по замене клапана охлаждающей жидкости в приусе. из-за этого клапана бывает что печка не прогревает салон или наоборот слишком горячо в салоне. Устанавливается только в американских приусах. ОШИБКИ p1116 p1121
I had this same code, changed the control valve with a new and code went away briefly and now it's back with the same code. Anyone have a clue to what might be going on?
My snap-on scanner is not retrieving codes on the prius (tried 2 different prius's). Is there a step I am missing that is different then your average car? Maybe I'm doing the "key on engine off" part wrong. Anyone who reads this feel free to add any insight.
TSB says "Applicable Vehicles- 2004-2007 BEFORE Production Change - Effective VINS shown (See VIN's 11th Digit- Tsutsumi Plant= 3 vs Toyota Auto Body Plant = 7) " See Two TSBs- the earlier TSB: EG024R-05 and the Newer TSB: EG001-08
I replaced mine, originally I got a p1122 witch is same as p1121 my code came back so what gives car still runs smh 🤦♂️ . I replaced mine by going threw the top much easier.
Very nice video. Top 1% of TH-cam videos: no music, no rambling and talking to yourself, clear speaking so I can understand you, and good camera work. You did a very nice job. Thanks.
Replacement valve
Dorman 601-021or prius part 16670-21010
After watching this video I thought it would be a piece of cake. But as starchaser28 wrote, it took 8 hours. The valve is very difficult to reach. I drained the coolant first. Taking the hoses off the valve was a royal pain. I had to get a small vice grip to release the hose clamp. And then more coolant comes out when you do get the hose off. Wear eye protection and probably a dust mask. I had some coolant splash into my mouth, luckily not my eyes. I never could figure out how to burp the system. I followed the directions but nothing happened. After 8 hours of shear frustration I finally decided to just drive to the dealer and have them do it. While it did cost $200 to run a full diagnostic and burp the system (unbelievable, right?), it was going to cost $750 to replace the valve. So I guess I should be glad I did save some money, but again, it was very frustrating for me and I had many moments of regretting starting the work. I hope this helps people so they know what they are getting into.
Oh man, sorry you ran in to trouble. I watched every YT video out there on the job, and got mine done in 1.5-2 hours, and I really suck at automotive stuff. I know that you posted this 3 years ago, and most likely there have been more videos surface since. I used vice grips to remove the hose clamps and kinda just twisted the hoses off. The electrical connection was a real pain in the arse. Tight space, but if you remove the two bolts in the front of the inverter, you can wedge a 2x4 under the mounting brackets and give yourself a bit of room to maneuver some wrenches and pliers in there. I removed and replaced my pump from the bottom (car lifted on the drivers side).
We are so grateful to you for posting this video and giving great details! My husband and I were able to replace ours yesterday in less than 2 hours and we saved a lot of money by doing it ourselves. We watched your video 3 times and were able to follow your steps perfectly! Thank you so much for sharing this :)
This is so much better than most auto repair videos. Great job.
I just got the P1121 DTC check engine light on my 2009 Prius after it had sat in the garage for a few months without being started. I wasn't driving the car during the pandemic and the battery died. After I jumped it, the check engine light came on.
I cleared the code using the Torque app and OBDlink LX adapter (great little gizmo). I drove the car a few miles and the code seems to stay cleared, but I'm afraid it might come back. The only reason I started it was I need to get the car smogged and it will fail if there are any Check Engine DTC errors.
Nice to know if the light comes back on I'll have this handy video to help me thru the repair, so the dealershit can't "relieve my wallet of $500"
Probably the best TH-cam help video I've seen. Thank you for being thorough, but also succinct.
I just replaced my inverter pump on my 2008 Toyota Prius with about 154,000 miles. I went through the bumper cover & headlight method. Pretty easy and much less than $750 my dealership wanted including flushing and replenishing the coolant! In my opinion, it made sense to completely drain and replenish the coolant at the same time.
Love my Prius, TH-cam and Amazon make driving and owning my Prius even more affordable!
Thanks for the video!
I did the repair yesterday in under 3 hours and saved myself over $450:)
I used some scissor type hose clamps found at O'Reilly auto parts and didn't loose much coolant.
I tried the trick shown of removing the small hose to the right of the oil dipstick while filling the coolant, but coolant just started spilling out of the disconnected tube.
This replacement can be done from the top side. No need to jack up the vehicle and remove the air shields. Take off the plastic cover over the radiator under the hood as shown in the video.Remove the upper radiator hose above the valve area and tuck it to the left out of the way. Unbolt the device that looks like a tire valve stem and tuck it out of the way to the left. This gives you enough room to disconnect all three hoses and the electrical connection. It also provides enough room to remove the valve assembly up through the opening and to reinstall the new one. I did this in less than 4 hours total start to finish including re fill, tool clean up, test drive, refill etc. I am not a pro mechanic but I do have a lot of tools. You will need various size pliers to loosen the hose clamps. One of those cable operated hose clamp removal tools would be probably be ideal for this job. I reused the coolant. If you want to fully change it then you will need to jack up the vehicle, remove the plastic air dams, etc.
Thank you for posting this! Very clear instructions. I just followed it through step by step and it fixed theP1121 code issue on my 05 with 210k miles. It took me about 8 hours to do but in the end has saved me $400 - $500! The check engine light turned off on it's own between inspection mode cycles. This is just great, thanks!
Thanks for taking the time to post this video. You saved me a lot of aggravation.
I replaced my 3-way today in my 2007 Prius. I was able to remove it from the top by separating the metal bracket from the housing, which is held on by 3 Phillips head screws. I removed the bracket on the new switch before inserting under the maze of hoses and the reassembled it. I can now get my emissions test.
Big thanks for putting this DIY vid together; saved me loads of time, energy and $. I learned lots from your successes and hiccups. Everyone makes their journey to success in their own way; some with lots of nicks and scrapes, and you wonderfully remind us of that. Showing us your unsuccessful venture of using hose clamps and force-running the engine, was well worth your time in vid procurement and my time in watching this [infact, a few times].
I chose to do my invertor pump without hose clamps and i purchased a set of long needle nose plyers. Took me ~ 2hrs with re-flushing the coolant for both engine and inverter, running solid now. Big thanks.
Very grateful for this instructional video - I watched it several times. To demonstrate my appreciation, I promise to name my next child after you.
Thank you so much Steve for this clip, bless your heart for helping other people without any monetary expectation.
Great video, many thanks. My shop wants $430 to replace this. Found valve on ebay for $70, and will try when I get that. Only thing that could have made it a bit better would have been to actually show the process of removing first hose to bleed coolant system (start/stop engine? open while filling cold/hot?. Ditto for the allen head screw bleed, how to use, running, not, etc. But many thanks for all the great info!
man, just got done with mine. I swear that the electrical connection was the toughest part of the whole job. I lost a little bit of antifreeze, and I can hear the bubblin' when I start the car. I have learned to really burp the system to a T, you have to drive it, let it cool down, open the radiator cap, fill, and repeat the process until you don't hear the bubblin' on start up. Real pain in the arse. Can't believe that my local stealership charges $450 to do this job. I bought the part from the stealership for $90 out the door (and that is with a military discount). Took me 1.5-2 hrs to do the job, and I suck with automotive. It is gonna take me a week to burp the system, as I have come to learn. To all that are considering this work; you can do it, just make sure that you have the tools ready. I got my fluid hose clamps at Harbor Freight for $8. Your gonna need some vice grips or some really long needle nose pliers (for the hose clamps), socket set, antifreeze (Toyota species), and some time. I pulled and replaced my pump from the bottom of the car. I also jacked my driver side up to get better clearance to do the work. All in all I saved $360, and if you break that down to an hourly wage, that is $180 and hour (considering what the stealership charges)! If you make well more than that an hour, take your Prius into the stealership, if not, DIY!!!!!!! Just watch all the YT videos out there respective to the job. You got this! If I can do it, you can too! With respect to the check engine light, mine did not disappear immediately. It took a few start ups then it disappeared. Also, the error code will still exist (if using a error code reader) after all is well. I had the local auto parts shop check mine even after the check engine light went off (after the job), and it still read P11121. The only way to clear the code is to have a savvy auto parts store person clear the code (if knowledgeable and willing) or have the stealership do it for, most likely, $200+, or lastly if you have a error code reader that can clear the codes and DIY.
Hi, excellent info, especially on bleeding the coolant after replacement. Would really have liked detailed video, with tools, sockets, busted knuckles, etc. on actually getting the hoses off and the valve unbolted (bottom bolt very hard to get to, need really fine tooth ratchet). Did you unbolt, then remove hoses, or some hoses, did you put hoses back on before or after bolting new valve in place?
The best movie ever I seen in You-tub. Thank you so much for such informative and helpful movie.
Yep. They just tried to alleviate me of $500.00 also. Very nice video.
Thank you so much for this video. It was a huge help to us when we got the same error. Saved lots of money with your help.
eh ! el vato! ... -Thank you for the video! I was able to get it out from the top! And I plugged the hoses one by one with large fine thread bolts and reclamped them with the spring clamps. I lost a minimum amount of coolant to the catch pan. I'm reluctant and concerned about putting the car into gasoline only mode as you don't give the reverse steps procedure. I'll be looking and reading all the comments. Again Thank you so far. -Dizzy Dan
For anyone else worried about getting their car out of inspection mode just turn the car off and on again. It'll be back to normal.
@@godfathertrevor thanks for the info . I too was leary
Great video! I'm stuck on one part. I have a 2009 Toyota Prius. The bleeder valve was not located where the video stated. there was a spot for the hex wrench in the same place as the video, but there was no valve sticking out from it. Can you tell me where that is? Thanks!
so my code reader is also bringing up code p1121 and p1116 for the coolant temp sensor circuit stack for coolant heat storage system. will the one part clear both codes. I don't see any other videos and the picture that pops up for bothering codes shows the same diagram of the cooling system
Wow!! Very informative!! Just wondering, do you have a video of replacing an ecm on a Prius???
I have a causation for anyone that dose this work themselves, which I did. When you are driving the air out of the system it may be required to do it several times. I thought that I did a good job in getting all the air out and drove the car and got an emergency alarm stating to stop driving the car. I came back to my garage in burped the system again and got more air out again, not much, just a few bubbles. I did this three times until it was solid with no air (bubbles) in the system. So make sure there is no bubbles in the system at all. Then everything worked fine. It is a good repair and can save you a lot of money by not having the dealer do the work if your are capable of doing it yourself.
Where did you get that scanner???? Water control valve if somebody hasn't already mentioned
Lol that happened to me too thought it won’t leak out but it did leak out a whole lot of coolant but anyway nice work keep going thank u
Was the coolant leaking from the top two hoses or just the bottom one? It looks like you only clamped the bottom one with a pair of pliers, so I am wondering if the pinching would work properly if you used an actual hose clamp on all three hoses.
I should add that it is very important to place the constant tension clamps in exactly the same spot they came off of, when you put them back on, otherwise the hose could leak. this has happened to me on more than one occasion.
Mrdubomb or use new hose clamps
Two questions: inspection should be kept on for how long? And do we leave the radiator cap off during this step?
Thanks for posting! I will try this on my own soon. One question... where do you look for bubbles in the coolest system? How do you know if it's clear?
Derek, when you start the car after it has been sitting for a hot minute, you will hear bubbling. Fill the radiator as much as it can take, drive it around as usual, let the car cool down, fill it up again.... repeat process until you don't hear the bubbling. Pain in the arse, I know, but this is what I did. Also, you might wanna hit your A/C on high heat while during your drives to really open everything up.
I've had this problem for a bit. Thanks!!!
does this car had any excessive oil consumption prior the replacement of these parts?
because i went to toyota dealer and they asked me to replace these parts after the diagnostic (as a start point:) but they dont know what caused the excessive engine oil lost. i drew only 1k miles after the oil change and they said there was no oil and after they add an oil it was back to normal . i have 07 prius base
I had my inverter coolant control valve replaced about 2 years ago, now the P1121 CEL keeps coming back on and off intermittently. Any suggestions?
i assume you had no issues after this repair and driving it around? i have the same issue and am thinking about doing it my self. hopefully i can get the hose clamp to work.
Correct, no issues after the repair. The check engine light has not popped up again.
I am having a huge problem with my Toyota Prius 07. the drain cock of the coolant heat storage tank is broken. and i really don't want to replace the tank because it is still in a good shape. is there someway I can get the valve covering the tank without having to replace it completely
Thank you for the awesome video! I changed the valve and it seems working, but the dead triangle light went on couple of times when I was driving. Do you have any clue?
Bleed it. You most likely have air in the system. and when people say it might take 4 hours, they probably are right!
I realize that's an old post, but I'll answer it for people with the problem now or in the future.
The red triangle of death lights up on the dash (and shows a yellow warning with a thermometer icon on the top left of the screen) when the coolant temp reaches 120C=248F. Get completely off the gas pedal immediately, because if you're giving it much gas (going uphill or driving on a highway) the temp can go to 130C in just another 5 or 10 seconds, where you start to risk blowing gaskets, warping the head, etc.
I recommend having a "live data" display of coolant temp while driving with anything suspect about the cooling system, including while test driving after replacing coolant/pumps/whatever or bleeding it. I get this via having a Launch Creader Elite 200 OBDII scan tool plugged in as I drive, but just as good would be any WiFi or BlueTooth OBDII dongle (ELM327 chipset ones for under $20 are fine) and a free app such as Torque Lite on your phone, set to display a coolant temp gauge. I'd advise getting a dongle with a power on/off switch, so it doesn't drain your battery while the car is not in use, if you remember to turn it off. The OBDII port has continuous power, not switched with the car being on or off. And plugging/unplugging all the time risks damaging the car's OBDII connector.
Both my 2005 Prius and 2017 Prius Prime hold the coolant temp around 90C=194F quite well (the 2005 maybe varying from 85C to 100C) when everything is normal. My 2005 recently was overheating due to coolant loss for unknown reasons (I hadn't needed to add any coolant since I bought it used in 2014, until now in 2022). Driving up a hill (maybe 100 feet elevation gain) at 40mph would make the coolant temp go from 110C to 120C in maybe 10 seconds and light the red triangle. After adding coolant and getting most air out, on the same hill it would start at 90C and be 94C at the top of the hill. Once I was sure it was mostly fixed, I went on the interstate highway for a while, with it holding 90C quite well at 55mph, 65mph, 70mph. Then I accelerated up a long hill from 65mph to 85mph and cruised to the top at 85mph. The temp started at 90C, never went above 97C, and was 90C at the top.
Hello Sir, thank you for posting . Can you help me on this. I have a Prius 2007 had the invertor pump changed at the dealer ( the pump dont look the same as what you show here though, but I think the question should be the same ) and upon collecting my car, the minute the key is inserted and start button pressed, there is this humming noise that comes on and it goes off when I shut down the system. I drove this car for more than 10 years and I didnt have this noise before as the hybrid system is totally silent when nothing is moving until the aircon or engine kicks in. I brought back to the dealer and have it checked. They confirmed the noise is coming from the new pump that had just been replaced, but they said the computer check didnt detect anything wrong with it and therefore it is ok. I on the other hands felt that something is not right since it was not like this before for 10 years. And it is not logical to me that the pump should be on all the time even when I was not in engaged mode. any such pump must be drawing power from somewhere in that case and I am afraid it will drain my battery. The dealer said they cannot do anything since the computer system check showed everything is normal. Can you please let me know if your Prius had the same humming noise or was it dead quiet when non engaged. Appreciate very much if you can give me some advice on this.
The inverter coolant pump action is normal, the sound is not. The sound is caused by air bubbles in the inverter coolant loop. It is easy to bleed the inverter coolant loop. EyeOnAiman did a good video on it at th-cam.com/video/X43ymVi1Aug/w-d-xo.html
Thanks for making this video, it was really helpful!
I had the error code Prius P1121 and I replaced the coolant valve.
I have proper amount of coolant but I am still hearing constant see-saw kind of noise from the valve, just like it did before it failed and threw the error. What could be the problem?
Hello, I have the light check on my Toyota Prius 2004, the code is P2601 : cooling pump control circuit range/performance, what's problem? Note: I've replaced cooling pump 3 holes, and cooling tank also. But still alert "check P2601".
Extremely helpful. Thank you!
I replaced my but I still hear noise is there a sensor to replace?
Once you're finished with inspection mode. How do you get it out of that mode? You simply shut it off?
Thank You
yes. Imperative that you dont drive in this mode!
My 2008 prius doesn't have the nipple where I open the 6mm Allen. I replaced the control valve but the CEL is still there and it still has the p1121 code. Any advice?
Use your OBD2 scanner to clear the CEL and the DTC.
Hello, I have 2004 model toyota prius. When I power off my car then the electric motor just runs non stop for 1 hour daily. What happens to it? Please tell me a solution
Great video. Many Thanks.
question for you eallavato! after you had the car run the engine. did you do anything to bring it out of that mode, if so what steps would i need? and are you able to remove your foot from the brake after the symbol comes up telling you not to drive while the car is running that test? im looking to preform this coolant control valve soon, wanted to make sure i got full information. i noticed there was a number at end of video, would it be easier to call to get this and more additional information? thanks!
To bring it out of that special mode simply push the Power button once to turn off the car. And yes, once the symbol comes up you can remove the foot from the brake pedal. Good luck.
I have this project coming up to complete. You mentioned the car needs to be burped- so there isn't any air in the hoses. Will completing the tasks in the video help prevent those error lights from coming on after the jobs done. I've been quoted from my local dealership, if they have to bleed it for me after I get the errors it cost be 250.00 or more. Want to make sure it's done right the first time.
Sara Saylors The only error "lights" that the car was displaying was the "Check Engine Light", which when diagnosed with the Scanner was caused by the P1121 DTC. Have you diagnosed the issue to the P1121 code?
From the nature of your questions, it sounds like you are not very comfortable working around cars. If you live near the San Fernando Valley, I would call Steve (number at the end of the video) and work something out with him. He has done this a number of times.
Thank you so much really help
Thanks for doing this video!
Keep up the good work! Jay Ho!
What type of coolant is to be used?
For a Prius, the pink 50/50 Toyota Super Long Life Coolant, unless your particular year/car has an owner's manual saying otherwise.
полезное видео по замене клапана охлаждающей жидкости в приусе. из-за этого клапана бывает что печка не прогревает салон или наоборот слишком горячо в салоне. Устанавливается только в американских приусах. ОШИБКИ p1116 p1121
Алексей Александрович Кушнарёв а у меня он жужжит противно почти постоянно, все остальное нормально работает :)
I had this same code, changed the control valve with a new and code went away briefly and now it's back with the same code. Anyone have a clue to what might be going on?
After i did the repair my heater will not blow hot air anymore any advise?
Burp it
How do you get out of the engine mode at the end of the video?
just turn off engine
you safed me $$$$$$ THANK YOU
whats the exact name of the part?
and is it available on ebay?
inverter coolant valve and yes its on ebay but make sure its the updated one and not a used one Toyota issued a tsb for this know issue they have.
thank you...what is a TSB?
Technical service bulletin. Meaning they knew there was a problem but because there was no risk to life it wasn't a recall.
My snap-on scanner is not retrieving codes on the prius (tried 2 different prius's).
Is there a step I am missing that is different then your average car?
Maybe I'm doing the "key on engine off" part wrong.
Anyone who reads this feel free to add any insight.
I dont know about the snapOn reader. A lot of readers dont work well with Prius
i do not understand what does that have to do with the speedometer not showing ?
The code is reused. The valve replaced is not connected to the accelerator.
how long can i run my car with this p1121 error. the new part wont arrive for about a week.
A prius I just got from the dealership I work with and the p1121 code has been on that car for over 6 months and they were still driving it lol
If you live in warm weather you can get away with a busted valve for a while
Whats the TSB no?
TSB #: EG001-08
TSB says "Applicable Vehicles- 2004-2007 BEFORE Production Change - Effective VINS shown (See VIN's 11th Digit- Tsutsumi Plant= 3 vs Toyota Auto Body Plant = 7) "
See Two TSBs- the earlier TSB: EG024R-05 and the Newer TSB: EG001-08
thank you!!!
I can't find anything on an 05 Prus daylight sensor. Gerrr
Just got quoted $750 to replace in idaho
I replaced mine, originally I got a p1122 witch is same as p1121 my code came back so what gives car still runs smh 🤦♂️ . I replaced mine by going threw the top much easier.
Today I am going to get this done by dealer and it will cost $460/-
Great video, very informative, thanks.