FYI, if you have large hands, do yourself a favor and take the few minutes to remove the driver's headlight to work through that opening. Working on this valve and the pump above it is MUCH easier through the headlight opening and reduces the amount of skin you'll leave in the car. Investing in the right-angle hose clamp pliers for this (and the pump) is definitely worth it. I lost at most a few ounces of coolant, most from the before I could get the bottom hose clamped. Between the clamps and using a filler funnel on the radiator, I didn't have to worry about air pockets. After replacing the valve, I put the filler funnel on the radiator and filled it about halfway, and just watched as the coolant bubbled and the level dropped. Then I started it, saw no more bubbles, shut it off, stoppered the funnel, and then dropped the funnel into the overflow tank to top it up. Good call on raising the inverter - that does help a decent amount on hand room from the top. But pulling the headlight allows removing the valve through that opening, which is MUCH easier than snaking it out the top.
There are some that say refilling is very very important and you covered that in spades. The wire method is solid and must be done to make sure air (lack of fluid) gaps are fully or close to 100% removed as this is a closed system and the check engine system will trigger throwing you off the path to a completed job. Great instruction!
So glad I found your video again. Replacing another pump tomorrow and could not remember some of the details, especially how to do the relay part. Thank you for the instructions!
Hi, thank you so much the great explanation. I’m having 2 of those codes (p1116 and p1121) and sometimes red triangle light too. Do you think red triangle might be related to this part? Thanks again
Hi Lev, Very nice video indeed for us. I am trying to follow this method but when I jump the relay like you did it does not turn the pump on. Any suggestions? Thanks for your time.
Omg. I was thinking this video was very good, very informative, useful and helpful. Until the very end. Now I think it's BAD ASS!! LET'S GO, BRANDON!!!
Hi I have a question, I got the one from Amazon and I'm still having the p1116, you think those the car doesn't recognize it? And they just don't work or they just brake faster than the original?
great video! For a while I was hearing constant see-saw kind of noise from the valve, as it is opening and closing, then after a while it failed and it threw the error P1121 . So, I replaced the coolant valve and I have proper amount of coolant. The error is gone but but constant see-saw kind of noise is still there. What could be the problem? Is that noise normal?
So glad I came across this video! Thank you and FJB!!
FYI, if you have large hands, do yourself a favor and take the few minutes to remove the driver's headlight to work through that opening. Working on this valve and the pump above it is MUCH easier through the headlight opening and reduces the amount of skin you'll leave in the car.
Investing in the right-angle hose clamp pliers for this (and the pump) is definitely worth it. I lost at most a few ounces of coolant, most from the before I could get the bottom hose clamped.
Between the clamps and using a filler funnel on the radiator, I didn't have to worry about air pockets. After replacing the valve, I put the filler funnel on the radiator and filled it about halfway, and just watched as the coolant bubbled and the level dropped. Then I started it, saw no more bubbles, shut it off, stoppered the funnel, and then dropped the funnel into the overflow tank to top it up.
Good call on raising the inverter - that does help a decent amount on hand room from the top. But pulling the headlight allows removing the valve through that opening, which is MUCH easier than snaking it out the top.
There are some that say refilling is very very important and you covered that in spades. The wire method is solid and must be done to make sure air (lack of fluid) gaps are fully or close to 100% removed as this is a closed system and the check engine system will trigger throwing you off the path to a completed job. Great instruction!
Awesome video. Followed step by step and worked perfectly. LGB!
So glad I found your video again. Replacing another pump tomorrow and could not remember some of the details, especially how to do the relay part. Thank you for the instructions!
Happy to help
I'm replacing a second one as well
goldfish brain lol thanks for all the tips, Bonus points for the letsgobrandon at the end lol👍
Theirs a bleeder by the converter also can let bubbles out
Helpful video, thank you!
thanks for the video. lets go br4nd0n !
Hi, thank you so much the great explanation. I’m having 2 of those codes (p1116 and p1121) and sometimes red triangle light too. Do you think red triangle might be related to this part? Thanks again
Hi there ! From my experience the red triangle is related.
when you change your coolant it will be fixed .
@@benderossi6280 yes I changed the coolant and the part, and the red triangle is fixed. Thank you
thanks for the tips. the pump drops out the bottom with no fuss.
So helpful..
Thank you
Great
Hi Lev, Very nice video indeed for us. I am trying to follow this method but when I jump the relay like you did it does not turn the pump on. Any suggestions? Thanks for your time.
Check if the valve is properly connected. What are you using to jump it? And are you jumping the correct pins... additional info could narrow it down
Omg. I was thinking this video was very good, very informative, useful and helpful. Until the very end. Now I think it's BAD ASS!! LET'S GO, BRANDON!!!
Or you need to replace the "thermos?" If you're doing everything else correctly, but that pump is not kicking on, you may need to replace that sucker.
FJB!!
Sh**, I didn’t do the refill part lmfao. Ima do that now.
FYI next time pull the left headlight off the car and you get full access to the inverter pump and hoses.
I have skinny hands so that wasn't nessasary, but anyone with larger hands should definitely consider that option
Hi I have a question, I got the one from Amazon and I'm still having the p1116, you think those the car doesn't recognize it? And they just don't work or they just brake faster than the original?
I've heard nothing but bad news with Chinese aftermarket, therefore I'm getting genuine Toyota, approx $75 on eBay
Tha Tha
Does this valve not working won’t allow heat in your car?
great video! For a while I was hearing constant see-saw kind of noise from the valve, as it is opening and closing, then after a while it failed and it threw the error P1121 . So, I replaced the coolant valve and I have proper amount of coolant. The error is gone but but constant see-saw kind of noise is still there.
What could be the problem? Is that noise normal?
The prius does make a few noises most other cars don't. Are you referring to the noise after the vehicle is turned off?
Let's go Brandon? Hilar.
Very helpful...and let's go Brandon! 💀
Speak up bro!!
Right!! This guy needs to get it together smh
great video, but you need to Enunciate you words better. it was hard to understand you
Noted, thanks for the feedback