If I were to buy a Mayflash f-anything below 700, I'd be buying it to get my hands on the case probably and only Elite models. I don't know if it's laggy or not, but I'm too lazy to find out, and don't want to be dragging around extra controllers to authenticate my stick when I can either by the Mayflash F700 Elite when it comes out since you don't need other controllers, or just shove a Brook UFB Fusion, or Brook PS5+ in there.
aaaaaa thank you for this. I only recently got into arcade stick and have been wanting to do this exact set up for a while, but just assumed it'd be too complicated. This video makes it so much more doable.
There's a heat shrink tube that has a small bead solder in the middle of it so after you insert both wires and heat the tube up it melts the solder making the connection. Really comes in handy.
That ending lol. I've been gaining an interest in modding stuff after seeing custom mechanical keyboards recently (which are seriously cool). The idea of modding your hardware to give it a unique personal touch while getting exactly all of the functionality you need is really appealing. I have no experience in modding anything though so it is a little daunting but hey, gotta somewhere right? The main issue is college student finances.
For my Hitbox, I have 2 ports. One is a USB C [it used to be a USB B Printer Cable female port], and an RJ-45. I did a similar mod to my friend's MAS Stick. My friend's stick is jumpered so that the PS4 is the default. It bypasses the Retro Board, and if he wants to play the other consoles, he holds the Start+Select. There's only 1 wire coming out of the stick [while mine has a USB C and an RJ-45]. If you go with 2 ports, never plug both boards into something simultaneously. You'll fry both boards.
Awesome, thanks for explaining all this! I'm interested in the retro board as well. One interesting benefit of the Brook wireless fighting board is you can pair it with a bluetooth retro receiver to get Genesis compatibility. I can't speak to the lag but I'm fairly certain the Brook board is about as fast as something like a dual shock, but I don't know if the retro receivers from 8bitdo or Retro-bit add lag. The wireless board also has a wired option, but it isn't compatible with Xbox. I would definitely encourage using a drill for the holes, it's not bad at all. To drill 24mm holes I used a LENOX 7/8-in Bi-Metal Arbored Hole Saw. It creates a 22mm hole. Then I slowly sanded it out using a Dremel (the cheaper one meant for trimming dog nails works great haha) and checked the fit after each pass.
I have a number of sticks with this setup. I was super hype when Brook finally announced their retro board, I had been waiting years for this setup (used to have a MC Cthulhu and a padhacked 360 pad back in the day).
When making RJ45/Ethernet to USB or Dreamcast, or "Whatever" cables, only use RJ-45 ends that are of a 2+ piece design, have passthroughs, or are types that don't require a crimper. If you use ones with closed ends that don't have separate loading bars, it will be extremely annoying to work with.
You could've left the UFB installed the way you had it with the screw terminals, and then simply add the RetroBoard using one of the 20pin cables directly from board to board, without using the multiplier at all. You really didn't need to redo all of your previous wiring, but I guess it's a bit late for that lol. The multiplier board method is nice tho, cuz it allows you to use the premade 20pin harness instead of manually wiring everything.
Geez! How long have I been outta the loop?! I modded my fight stick with a UFB years ago for 360/PS3/4 compatibility, didn’t know Brook had a Retro board now! Was gonna do a harder (and now obsolete) workaround mod to be able to use my UFB on Saturn and older consoles. Now I don’t have to!
No, you can't play Colecovision, Intellivision, Atari 7800, Atari 5200. To do my setup you need a discrete input joystick with 3.5mm connectors and a DB37 as a "bulk connector that connects into a Brook Universal Board, and either a) Brook Retro, b) Wingman or C) Toidles Cthulhu. But to interface with Genesis, you need to padhack a Genesis board. Or a Genesis/TG16 adapter. For every other system, you have you either connect the discrete connections directly on q pad hack, or use a Genesis to x adapter. I am still waiting for an Intellivision and Colecovision Super Action connector . U got an Astrocade working with a SadGirlRecords 2600 to Bally adapter abd with one more step, a 2600 to Odyssey 2 adapter.
I have been thinking lately and would an analogue joystick give an advantage playing shmups?. You could get small , slow micro dodging movements without having to use the full throw of a stick. I intend to test my PS4 analogue stick with ketsui . If it works I may look into it further. Has anyone tried it?. I know there is an analogue stick on the market now .
Next Episode "diy railguns , what you think about the SINDEN LIGHT GUN recoils? I DONT have them but have the best Feeling when seeing CONTENT about them what you think man. ... I Had good Times with hotd Overkill and darkaide chronicles on wii
Where did you find the RJ45 to USB-B cable at? I have everything you suggested but I still need the RJ45 cable to connect the boards to the double female connector.
@@TheElectricUnderground I was hoping you would make your own partial guide [since I saw and have that one] so that people could see you making the cables, and have a visual representation of it. That said, thank you for the guide. This will help many people out there. Special thanks to Akishop [for the discontinued PS360+], and Brook [For the Retro Board]. They didn't have to make the pinouts for the RJ45 ports identical between the Toodles Cthulhu, the Retro Board, and their forefather the Cthulhu, but they had the kindness and business sense to do it. Now one properly constructed cable is as good as another. All you need to worry about is if your PCB is natively compatible.
Or just use MiSTer FPGA for Retro, so you can use a modern USB stick without modifications and play everything 8/16bit incl. NeoGeo, PC Engine CD, Mega CD and some arcade cores like CPS1.
I agree. I can't use Gamepads any more as I have some muscle weakness in my hands and I've been trying to find a solution to use one joystick for all consoles but it's such a bloody hassle I just can't be arsed.
@@MrDirkles I love everything and anything retro That includes building my own custom stick. I totally get not wanting to deal with the hassle and that's fine too It's funny because I don't own a Mister and one big reason is the hassle of finding components and setting it all up. Once I figure that out I'll be on board with the Mister Though i'm still going to play on original hardware too
@@TheElectricUnderground Does Brook have any documentation confirming their standard? It is weird when you are not given all the information upfront for something that is supposed to be DIY.
I've been using the retro board only as it works on mister. I use it for mister, saturn and gamecube (easiest way for me to play ikaruga) Do you think there is any latency difference between the retro board and universal board on the mister?
I do not actually! In fact I wouldn't be surprised if the retro board is faster, I have my stick dual modded and the retro board seems extremely responsive:-)
@@TheElectricUnderground I found a few of your videos where you go in-depth into arcade stick setups and lever types. I'm using a Sanwa lever and the sensitive Sanwa buttons at the moment, but planning switch to a Seimetsu next. Then Korean lever after that. Thanks.
paradisearcadeshop.com/home/controls/levers/samducksa-crown/crown-303-series/2602_crown-cwl-303mj-dx-crazy-dongpal-lever-clear-smoke But make sure to get the lightest grommet and a different actuator! I m going to make a video about it actually :-)
@@TheElectricUnderground Very cool! I knew right away when I saw it that it was a K lever and I was surprised to see it because it seems a little uncommon to see them outside of Tekken players' sticks. I have the Taeyoung Fanta myself with the ASI blue grommet and really love it.
Great video, I kind of achieved something similar. I have a Qanba Q4 which is compatible with ps3/xbox360/pc/android, + a brooks xbox360 to ps4 adapter for ps4 support.
The RAP SA for PS3 is an oldy It was my first Hori stick and I really loved it My favorite sticks of all time are my Madcatz SE those were the perfect size and weight. It is my shmups build with Seimitsu Old LS-32 and PS15 Buttons I've finally got to owning the Virtua Stick High Grade and it is now going to be my primary for both shmups and fighters 😁 I love my Mayflash F500 You saying those are laggy? It's one of my top 5 sticks lol
@@TheElectricUnderground I've been in love with the VSHG for the longest time but reports of bad PCB that drops inputs turned me off That and it was Japan Also at the time we had more offerings here in North America so I went with Hori RAP SA 😋 Thankfully now with these Brook boards we can revive these old sticks again so I went ahead and grabbed the VSHG to finally fulfill that itch. I'm not at all disappointed. I came to realize that I like more of a compact sized stick. These days the trend with sticks is bigger is better. Thankfully the Virtua Stick is the perfect size and weight. At first I didn't like the amount of palm space but I find it's more comfortable now My top stick at the moment 😁
Mark!.. you won’t believe what I just picked up!?. Hori vewlix diamond!. £250! It’s the ps3 model Comes with a PS4 adaptor but I want to play 360 Need to fit a usb or buy a wingman so looking at what’s best!
Did you say that was a taeyoung Fanta!?. It looks like it has a tremendously short throw and snappy response. How does it compare to the siemitsu last-32?. That’s what I use. I’m very tempted to get one like yours now Thanks ps.. is it a drop in fit in most cases?
It is actually a crown Crazy dongpal (gotta love the name). I think it is fantastic and am going to make a vid on it and how I recommend setting it up :-D
The first time you have to remove a quick disconnect its borderline impossible. I switched from a hitbox top plate to a stick top plate on my AFS stick and it took me 2 hours to get all of the quick disconnects off. I ended up breaking the harness on the last cable and had to order another harness. Basically, its not just you, those disconnects s u c k.
Ok its time to get a steam/PS4 shmup party going and put the MOFO on stream or recording. Lets go!!!! been practicing Ketsui, Aero Fighters 2 and Gate of Thunder
Oh boy that s a tricky one, GameCube converter is probably your best chance, though that will be laggy. The best would be to padhacks a GameCube controller and then use an undamned USB converter with it
@@TheElectricUnderground Yeah, I was thinking about padhacking a Gamecube controller but the triggers need diodes and a couple extra steps, I believe. I might end up padhacking a Wii Controller Pro... I was hoping to get it to work wired though :S
Still telling folks not to buy ANY Mayflash products, despite only having tried their older obsolete (and yes: laggy) models? Might as well tell folks to not buy ANY Sony consoles since they only use DVD-based games. I love your channel, but don't mislead your viewers with outdated information.
I recommend parts that I know work well and have positive experiences with. I'm not going to keep buying mayflash products in the hopes that they improve when I 've already been burned by a product they claimed had 1 ms input lag, but was causing half a frame of lag in reality.
Ive Heard Brooks Board now so often , and finally im GONNA learn what the hell IT is
If I were to buy a Mayflash f-anything below 700, I'd be buying it to get my hands on the case probably and only Elite models. I don't know if it's laggy or not, but I'm too lazy to find out, and don't want to be dragging around extra controllers to authenticate my stick when I can either by the Mayflash F700 Elite when it comes out since you don't need other controllers, or just shove a Brook UFB Fusion, or Brook PS5+ in there.
aaaaaa thank you for this. I only recently got into arcade stick and have been wanting to do this exact set up for a while, but just assumed it'd be too complicated. This video makes it so much more doable.
There's a heat shrink tube that has a small bead solder in the middle of it so after you insert both wires and heat the tube up it melts the solder making the connection. Really comes in handy.
That ending lol.
I've been gaining an interest in modding stuff after seeing custom mechanical keyboards recently (which are seriously cool). The idea of modding your hardware to give it a unique personal touch while getting exactly all of the functionality you need is really appealing. I have no experience in modding anything though so it is a little daunting but hey, gotta somewhere right? The main issue is college student finances.
Yeah I 've Defintely been there. Thanks for watching!
Your videos are so soothing... Thanx.
I m glad to hear it!!! :-)
If you're on a budget, then get the Qanba Carbon.
You can still get the Mayflash Magic-S and Magic-NS if you want to use it on PS4, Switch, etc..
I know it's kinda randomly asking but do anybody know of a good website to stream newly released tv shows online ?
@Rex Dominic I watch on Flixzone. Just google for it :)
@Wilson Braxton Yup, I have been watching on flixzone for years myself :D
@Wilson Braxton thanks, signed up and it seems like they got a lot of movies there =) I appreciate it !!
@Rex Dominic happy to help =)
For my Hitbox, I have 2 ports. One is a USB C [it used to be a USB B Printer Cable female port], and an RJ-45.
I did a similar mod to my friend's MAS Stick. My friend's stick is jumpered so that the PS4 is the default. It bypasses the Retro Board, and if he wants to play the other consoles, he holds the Start+Select. There's only 1 wire coming out of the stick [while mine has a USB C and an RJ-45].
If you go with 2 ports, never plug both boards into something simultaneously. You'll fry both boards.
Awesome, thanks for explaining all this! I'm interested in the retro board as well. One interesting benefit of the Brook wireless fighting board is you can pair it with a bluetooth retro receiver to get Genesis compatibility. I can't speak to the lag but I'm fairly certain the Brook board is about as fast as something like a dual shock, but I don't know if the retro receivers from 8bitdo or Retro-bit add lag. The wireless board also has a wired option, but it isn't compatible with Xbox.
I would definitely encourage using a drill for the holes, it's not bad at all. To drill 24mm holes I used a LENOX 7/8-in Bi-Metal Arbored Hole Saw. It creates a 22mm hole. Then I slowly sanded it out using a Dremel (the cheaper one meant for trimming dog nails works great haha) and checked the fit after each pass.
I have a number of sticks with this setup. I was super hype when Brook finally announced their retro board, I had been waiting years for this setup (used to have a MC Cthulhu and a padhacked 360 pad back in the day).
When making RJ45/Ethernet to USB or Dreamcast, or "Whatever" cables, only use RJ-45 ends that are of a 2+ piece design, have passthroughs, or are types that don't require a crimper. If you use ones with closed ends that don't have separate loading bars, it will be extremely annoying to work with.
You could've left the UFB installed the way you had it with the screw terminals, and then simply add the RetroBoard using one of the 20pin cables directly from board to board, without using the multiplier at all.
You really didn't need to redo all of your previous wiring, but I guess it's a bit late for that lol. The multiplier board method is nice tho, cuz it allows you to use the premade 20pin harness instead of manually wiring everything.
did you get the short rj45 cable from arcadeshock?
Yes I believe so :-)
Geez! How long have I been outta the loop?! I modded my fight stick with a UFB years ago for 360/PS3/4 compatibility, didn’t know Brook had a Retro board now! Was gonna do a harder (and now obsolete) workaround mod to be able to use my UFB on Saturn and older consoles. Now I don’t have to!
Yes the retro board is awesome!!! No more pad hacks needed ha
This is awesome, super helpful, thanks a ton for putting this together.
No, you can't play Colecovision, Intellivision, Atari 7800, Atari 5200.
To do my setup you need a discrete input joystick with 3.5mm connectors and a DB37 as a "bulk connector that connects into a Brook Universal Board, and either a) Brook Retro, b) Wingman or C) Toidles Cthulhu.
But to interface with Genesis, you need to padhack a Genesis board. Or a Genesis/TG16 adapter.
For every other system, you have you either connect the discrete connections directly on q pad hack, or use a Genesis to x adapter.
I am still waiting for an Intellivision and Colecovision Super Action connector .
U got an Astrocade working with a SadGirlRecords 2600 to Bally adapter abd with one more step, a 2600 to Odyssey 2 adapter.
Awesome stuff. Thanks for the amazing content. I've never modded anything or owned an arcade stick so this will be an interesting experience.
Feel free to ask questions if you need any help along the way :-D
I have been thinking lately and would an analogue joystick give an advantage playing shmups?. You could get small , slow micro dodging movements without having to use the full throw of a stick. I intend to test my PS4 analogue stick with ketsui . If it works I may look into it further. Has anyone tried it?. I know there is an analogue stick on the market now .
I think the main issue is that most shmups are not made to support analog movement , but it is an interesting idea!!
Next Episode "diy railguns , what you think about the SINDEN LIGHT GUN recoils? I DONT have them but have the best Feeling when seeing CONTENT about them what you think man. ... I Had good Times with hotd Overkill and darkaide chronicles on wii
I have my lightgun on the way! I'll get it in December!
Where did you find the RJ45 to USB-B cable at? I have everything you suggested but I still need the RJ45 cable to connect the boards to the double female connector.
Oh I just use a short Ethernet chord to check next the retroboard to the double female port
@@TheElectricUnderground Ok thanks a lot. Appreciate the video.
Where's the guide you promised in this video to RJ-45/Ethernet to "Console of choice" cable making?
Here you go :-) it works on brooks retro board as well filthypants.blogspot.com/2018/12/retro-console-rj45-pinouts-ps360-mc.html?m=1
@@TheElectricUnderground I was hoping you would make your own partial guide [since I saw and have that one] so that people could see you making the cables, and have a visual representation of it.
That said, thank you for the guide. This will help many people out there.
Special thanks to Akishop [for the discontinued PS360+], and Brook [For the Retro Board]. They didn't have to make the pinouts for the RJ45 ports identical between the Toodles Cthulhu, the Retro Board, and their forefather the Cthulhu, but they had the kindness and business sense to do it. Now one properly constructed cable is as good as another. All you need to worry about is if your PCB is natively compatible.
Or just use MiSTer FPGA for Retro, so you can use a modern USB stick without modifications and play everything 8/16bit incl. NeoGeo, PC Engine CD, Mega CD and some arcade cores like CPS1.
I d still recommend at least installing the brooks universal board in that case. You still need to play the m2 ps4 ports and cave 360 ports :-D
I agree. I can't use Gamepads any more as I have some muscle weakness in my hands and I've been trying to find a solution to use one joystick for all consoles but it's such a bloody hassle I just can't be arsed.
Some people still love playing on original hardware
@@c2ironfist I agree. But at my time of life in not sure how long I have left and I don't want to spend any more time fucking about with this :)
@@MrDirkles I love everything and anything retro
That includes building my own custom stick. I totally get not wanting to deal with the hassle and that's fine too
It's funny because I don't own a Mister and one big reason is the hassle of finding components and setting it all up.
Once I figure that out I'll be on board with the Mister
Though i'm still going to play on original hardware too
Do you happen to know if you can use the UP5 addon for the UFB with this kit?
Are the RJ45s by the MC Cthulhu Standard or another somewhere else?
that's what I use actually, so yes go with that version.
@@TheElectricUnderground Does Brook have any documentation confirming their standard? It is weird when you are not given all the information upfront for something that is supposed to be DIY.
I've been using the retro board only as it works on mister. I use it for mister, saturn and gamecube (easiest way for me to play ikaruga) Do you think there is any latency difference between the retro board and universal board on the mister?
I do not actually! In fact I wouldn't be surprised if the retro board is faster, I have my stick dual modded and the retro board seems extremely responsive:-)
@@TheElectricUnderground Thanks for the reply. I am an input lag hypochondriac.
Hi what are the parts that you use, Sanwa or semitsu?
I use a custom Korean lever actually :-)
@@TheElectricUnderground I found a few of your videos where you go in-depth into arcade stick setups and lever types. I'm using a Sanwa lever and the sensitive Sanwa buttons at the moment, but planning switch to a Seimetsu next. Then Korean lever after that. Thanks.
What lever are you using in this stick?
paradisearcadeshop.com/home/controls/levers/samducksa-crown/crown-303-series/2602_crown-cwl-303mj-dx-crazy-dongpal-lever-clear-smoke
But make sure to get the lightest grommet and a different actuator! I m going to make a video about it actually :-)
@@TheElectricUnderground Very cool! I knew right away when I saw it that it was a K lever and I was surprised to see it because it seems a little uncommon to see them outside of Tekken players' sticks. I have the Taeyoung Fanta myself with the ASI blue grommet and really love it.
I' ve read that there are problems when connecting this to the nintendo Switch.
Have you tried it?
Yes if you dual mod the switch seems to not like it :-( I have a work around with homebrew but that requires hacking your switch
@@TheElectricUnderground Thanks!, Guess I'll have to find a workaround
Great video, I kind of achieved something similar. I have a Qanba Q4 which is compatible with ps3/xbox360/pc/android, + a brooks xbox360 to ps4 adapter for ps4 support.
The RAP SA for PS3 is an oldy
It was my first Hori stick and I really loved it
My favorite sticks of all time are my Madcatz SE those were the perfect size and weight. It is my shmups build with Seimitsu Old LS-32 and PS15 Buttons
I've finally got to owning the Virtua Stick High Grade and it is now going to be my primary for both shmups and fighters 😁
I love my Mayflash F500
You saying those are laggy? It's one of my top 5 sticks lol
I want one too! For the swag mostly ha.
@@TheElectricUnderground I've been in love with the VSHG for the longest time but reports of bad PCB that drops inputs turned me off
That and it was Japan
Also at the time we had more offerings here in North America so I went with Hori RAP SA 😋
Thankfully now with these Brook boards we can revive these old sticks again so I went ahead and grabbed the VSHG to finally fulfill that itch. I'm not at all disappointed.
I came to realize that I like more of a compact sized stick. These days the trend with sticks is bigger is better. Thankfully the Virtua Stick is the perfect size and weight. At first I didn't like the amount of palm space but I find it's more comfortable now
My top stick at the moment 😁
Mark!.. you won’t believe what I just picked up!?. Hori vewlix diamond!.
£250! It’s the ps3 model
Comes with a PS4 adaptor but I want to play 360
Need to fit a usb or buy a wingman so looking at what’s best!
Ohhh that s really cool! Can t go wrong with hori :-)
Did you say that was a taeyoung Fanta!?. It looks like it has a tremendously short throw and snappy response. How does it compare to the siemitsu last-32?. That’s what I use. I’m very tempted to get one like yours now
Thanks ps.. is it a drop in fit in most cases?
It is actually a crown Crazy dongpal (gotta love the name). I think it is fantastic and am going to make a vid on it and how I recommend setting it up :-D
Man, I really need to look at doing this. Seems like it's not as complicated as I was thinking.
The Bob Ross of shmup
"ive Just Show IT FOR real Look Here" man on Point Like a Brush and canvass haha
The first time you have to remove a quick disconnect its borderline impossible. I switched from a hitbox top plate to a stick top plate on my AFS stick and it took me 2 hours to get all of the quick disconnects off. I ended up breaking the harness on the last cable and had to order another harness.
Basically, its not just you, those disconnects s u c k.
Ok its time to get a steam/PS4 shmup party going and put the MOFO on stream or recording. Lets go!!!! been practicing Ketsui, Aero Fighters 2 and Gate of Thunder
Nice!!! That would be really cool.
I need something to connect to my old original Wii :(
Oh boy that s a tricky one, GameCube converter is probably your best chance, though that will be laggy. The best would be to padhacks a GameCube controller and then use an undamned USB converter with it
@@TheElectricUnderground Yeah, I was thinking about padhacking a Gamecube controller but the triggers need diodes and a couple extra steps, I believe. I might end up padhacking a Wii Controller Pro... I was hoping to get it to work wired though :S
whoa, my girlfriend has an arcade stick just like yours. hers is always kinda sticky though
wheres futari review utterly required
man you should have paid some one to do this for you
ha I've cleaned it up since this vid :-)
Still telling folks not to buy ANY Mayflash products, despite only having tried their older obsolete (and yes: laggy) models? Might as well tell folks to not buy ANY Sony consoles since they only use DVD-based games. I love your channel, but don't mislead your viewers with outdated information.
I recommend parts that I know work well and have positive experiences with. I'm not going to keep buying mayflash products in the hopes that they improve when I 've already been burned by a product they claimed had 1 ms input lag, but was causing half a frame of lag in reality.