The angles on the front and sides are known as clearance angles and not rake angles, the rake angle is on the top of the tool, and is the cutting rake. Anyway you’ve got a great workshop.
A lot of TH-camrs fail to address 'us of limited knowledge' who are trying to learn. Ten minutes of explanation, like this, can save us novices from a world of disappointment, thank you Mr Crispin!
Excellent video. A nice addition to a grinder tool rest that won't tilt is fabricating a small wedge with the desired angle equal to the desired rake angle and clamping it to the flat tool rest. You can then rest the work on the wedge and rotate it into the wheel and get the desired angle on the work.
As a novice, who’s preparing to address a grinding wheel with some HSS for the first time, that was superb, thank you. There’s plenty of info on cutting tool geometry out there, but precious little like that showing the practicalities of grinding a tool at the wheel itself. More would be most welcome, if you have time and the inclination, like a basic general purpose RH turning tool for facing and turning steel or aluminium, with a small but definite radius for a reasonable finish. With that, we can then play ourselves and make LH tools, chamfering tools and grooving tools.
MrCrispin I concur. Thanks for a concise, brilliant demonstration. Some discussion of grinding wheel grits, materials, and applications would also be useful.
well done, takes me back to my apprenticeship in the early eighties, all part of becoming a competent engineer, if you cant do the basics you`ll get nowhere, I still have my projects I made all them years ago and when it comes down to it all our tools were hand made before automation. our first task after fitting exercises as an apprentice was to grind a drill properly, I hope I never forget all the little tricks I was taught by all them great old tool makers of yester year. keep up the great work
Never seen how to achieve correct high speed tool angles so simply explained, using carbide generally can make us forgetful and lazy, thanks for that, appreciated.
Good tip about watching the sparks on the wheel indicating the point of contact. Further to this, once the face is fully ground the sparks will deflect off the top of the tool rather than running round the wheel. You can see this effect occurring at 3:37. Cheers.
Found your video at the right time. My first attempt did not work well and now I see why. My HSS is only 1/4 " so I made a holder out of 1/2" square bar drilled on the end with a locking thumbscrew. Easier for me to see the angle I am holding. Less hot fingers as well.
That was a most excellent and informative video on tool grinding 👍👍 Your timing couldn't have been better, I have a couple of small step pulleys I need to make and I'm going with round poly belt, so I need to grind myself a 5mm radius tool to cut the belt grooves and I shall be following this tutorial very closely. Thank you for taking the time to document and share, for those of us that have to teach ourselves, these kinds of tutorials are an invaluable resource.
Thank you for your videos, I'm recovering from eye surgery and IV had time to binge watch your videos and IV really enjoyed them. I can't wait to get back into my workshop and crack on with my wall mounted oscillating engine, I saw an amazing model last year at Doncaster race course model engineering exhibition.
Well done Crispin super job. I'm glad the you mentioned grinding top rake will alter the radius, I was going to blast you over you adding toprake. But as you said you will mention more about it in a later video, I will say no more. Stay Safe and Well. Your Package is currently at Melbourne Airport ready to fly out.
Having hand ground and used form tools a lot, that's pretty much what I do. You may find the use of EZE-Lap diamond "laps" to be faster than a stone and for a similar tool made recently I progressed from 400 grit through 600 grit to 1,200 grit to get a smooth contour. I have also found top rake to be unnecessary and makes for easier resharpening by sliding a fine Arkansas stone (or Chinese equivalent) along the top face of the tool to avoid rounding off the critical cutting edge. If I find form tools will not cut then first to do is check centre height. Form tools need to be at or slightly below the centreline to cut, especially as I use less front and side clearance than shown on your tool. Not every one can hand grind form tools, let alone as well as you did along with first class video and explanation of what I choose to call "first understand what you are trying to do and what is going on"
Hello Mr Crispin. Are you the Keanu Reeves of Machinists? You look young but have the soul and experience of an old machinist. I already know how to ground my high speed steel but I realy enjoyed your video. Great tutourial and presentation!
This takes me back to my days as a technician in a school. The biggest problem was dressing the grinding wheel before using it. Kids tend to grind big grooves in the grinding wheels. Technicians then have to sort the problems out before they can start resharpening all the lathe tools.
Another great tutorial from Mr.C. Many thanks. Would you consider at some point, doing an in-depth vid on rake angles on tools with a focus on the most suitable geometry for small/ less rigid lathes.
Positive cutting geometry, tiny nose radius. Basically more pointy more better. Look up the old published bit geometries and grind them for the "softer" materials on the charts. Unfortunately that's going to give you the least desirable surface finish. And a tool that won't last as long. But everything is a trade off. You can use more traditional tools with light passes your machine can handle for the finishing passes. Or finish it with something like a shear tool or sandpaper
I'm really enjoying your content and think you should have a lot more subscribers ! Folks who enjoy home shop machinist content on TH-cam and haven't subscribed are missing out. Cheers !
And thank you for all those contemplating their early attempts at a successful tool. I have been freehand grinding for decades (4) using a bench grinder and have had to attempt to teach how it's done several times. I wish I had had this video to show them Before I did! As good a discription of an essential and frequent task as I've ever heard. Yes, there is more subtleties, yes there is much to experience.. But, if my daughter absorbed this lesson she would be able to step up to a grinder and make a tool that would cut. Well done Mr. Crispin.
Brilliant. And also, you have a toolroom microscope! It would appear you are holding back quite a bit and there is a lot more you do in that workshop of yours than just making a locomotive!
At the moment it is pretty much just Locomotive but I have plans to get in to the building of piston Aero Engines at some point. Scale radial engines ect.
If Your rest does not tilt, You can put something parallel on it, to raise the tool and to change the angles. Or take some super glue and stick a wooden wedge on it.
Yes either would work. I think the solution would be to make a tilting rest but I'm not opposed to free hand grinding as it gives great versatility. When it comes to drills you have no choice.
@@MrCrispinEnterprises The hollow cut from the grinding wheel, which is then created automatically, makes it much easier to use the grinding stone. Stay healthy! Kind regards from Germany Big fan of Mr. Crispin =)
I was going to make the same point, certainly makes grinding a radius easier with an angled toolrest as you can concentrate on the shape not the relief angle.
Excellent explanation and camera work ! With the affordability of insert tooling and cheap drill bits the basic skills like grinding a HSS tool bit or sharpening a drill seems to have faded a bit which is a shame . One thing i do know for certain is if you never try you will never master it !
Excellently explained, but I'm curious as to why you didn't angle the grinding wheel rest plate to give you an acceptable rake or clearance angle. Regards Mark in the UK
If you want to remove a large portion of HSS angle grinder is a tool to go .But use stainless steel 1mm cutting discs.With ones for steel it will take forever.Dont worry about overheating it ,it wont temper it enough to matter.I also welded it with stainless steel electrodes.
Sorry for having to correct you but you’ve got too much clearance on the front of the tool so don’t be surprised if you end up with chatter marks when cutting cast iron. Try reducing the front clearance a bit and then see what difference it makes.
The angles on the front and sides are known as clearance angles and not rake angles, the rake angle is on the top of the tool, and is the cutting rake. Anyway you’ve got a great workshop.
Thank you for clarifying this. I will mention the difference in any further tool grinding videos.
A lot of TH-camrs fail to address 'us of limited knowledge' who are trying to learn. Ten minutes of explanation, like this, can save us novices from a world of disappointment, thank you Mr Crispin!
Hope Mr Ashwell got to see what a great engineer you turned out to be
Those of us that are new to machining really appreciate these how to videos. They help alot!
Excellent video. A nice addition to a grinder tool rest that won't tilt is fabricating a small wedge with the desired angle equal to the desired rake angle and clamping it to the flat tool rest. You can then rest the work on the wedge and rotate it into the wheel and get the desired angle on the work.
As a novice, who’s preparing to address a grinding wheel with some HSS for the first time, that was superb, thank you. There’s plenty of info on cutting tool geometry out there, but precious little like that showing the practicalities of grinding a tool at the wheel itself. More would be most welcome, if you have time and the inclination, like a basic general purpose RH turning tool for facing and turning steel or aluminium, with a small but definite radius for a reasonable finish. With that, we can then play ourselves and make LH tools, chamfering tools and grooving tools.
Ok, noted
MrCrispin I concur. Thanks for a concise, brilliant demonstration. Some discussion of grinding wheel grits, materials, and applications would also be useful.
Whew! That is a LOT of work! Very nice job Mr Crispin
well done, takes me back to my apprenticeship in the early eighties, all part of becoming a competent engineer, if you cant do the basics you`ll get nowhere, I still have my projects I made all them years ago and when it comes down to it all our tools were hand made before automation. our first task after fitting exercises as an apprentice was to grind a drill properly, I hope I never forget all the little tricks I was taught by all them great old tool makers of yester year. keep up the great work
This is the most complete explanation I have seen on how to grind cutting bits.
Eloquent and thorough as always. Thankyou.
This is the second time I've watched this, only now I need to use the info to make this tool for my lathe. Thanks.
Thoughtful of HM the Queen to give you that green shirt! Meaningful too, since as you know she was a mechanic during the war.
Never seen how to achieve correct high speed tool angles so simply explained, using carbide generally can make us forgetful and lazy, thanks for that, appreciated.
That grinder looks super safe compered to the ones we use at work.
Good tip about watching the sparks on the wheel indicating the point of contact. Further to this, once the face is fully ground the sparks will deflect off the top of the tool rather than running round the wheel. You can see this effect occurring at 3:37. Cheers.
Found your video at the right time. My first attempt did not work well and now I see why. My HSS is only 1/4 " so I made a holder out of 1/2" square bar drilled on the end with a locking thumbscrew. Easier for me to see the angle I am holding. Less hot fingers as well.
Oh my. Brings back memories. I must have done hundreds of these by hand. 😓
Some great tips and info here, many thanks Mr Crispin! It’s a while since I had abrasive wheel training.
Very clear explanation. This is absolutly gold for begginers like me. Thank you very much Mr. Crispin!!
That was a most excellent and informative video on tool grinding 👍👍
Your timing couldn't have been better, I have a couple of small step pulleys I need to make and I'm going with round poly belt, so I need to grind myself a 5mm radius tool to cut the belt grooves and I shall be following this tutorial very closely.
Thank you for taking the time to document and share, for those of us that have to teach ourselves, these kinds of tutorials are an invaluable resource.
I'm well impresses with your skills & the way you describe you describe everything. Thank you
Like the shirt. Grinding HSS tools, especially complex grinds is my kryptonite. Least favorite thing to do....
Thank you for your videos, I'm recovering from eye surgery and IV had time to binge watch your videos and IV really enjoyed them. I can't wait to get back into my workshop and crack on with my wall mounted oscillating engine, I saw an amazing model last year at Doncaster race course model engineering exhibition.
Well done Crispin super job. I'm glad the you mentioned grinding top rake will alter the radius, I was going to blast you over you adding toprake. But as you said you will mention more about it in a later video, I will say no more. Stay Safe and Well. Your Package is currently at Melbourne Airport ready to fly out.
Thanks Dave. Glad to avoid being blasted on this occasion!
Sei uno dei pochi che spiega veramente bene quelle che fa e lo fa altrettanto bene
Top!
Having hand ground and used form tools a lot, that's pretty much what I do. You may find the use of EZE-Lap diamond "laps" to be faster than a stone and for a similar tool made recently I progressed from 400 grit through 600 grit to 1,200 grit to get a smooth contour. I have also found top rake to be unnecessary and makes for easier resharpening by sliding a fine Arkansas stone (or Chinese equivalent) along the top face of the tool to avoid rounding off the critical cutting edge.
If I find form tools will not cut then first to do is check centre height. Form tools need to be at or slightly below the centreline to cut, especially as I use less front and side clearance than shown on your tool. Not every one can hand grind form tools, let alone as well as you did along with first class video and explanation of what I choose to call "first understand what you are trying to do and what is going on"
Clear and simple , brilliant. I'll be sharing this to the Drummond Myford FB group.
Hello Mr Crispin. Are you the Keanu Reeves of Machinists? You look young but have the soul and experience of an old machinist.
I already know how to ground my high speed steel but I realy enjoyed your video. Great tutourial and presentation!
Great video from a non Machinist. I'm a woodworker but I find your work fascinating.
This takes me back to my days as a technician in a school.
The biggest problem was dressing the grinding wheel before using it.
Kids tend to grind big grooves in the grinding wheels.
Technicians then have to sort the problems out before they can start resharpening all the lathe tools.
That was superb. Really well presented explanation and demonstration. I learned a lot.
Another great tutorial from Mr.C. Many thanks. Would you consider at some point, doing an in-depth vid on rake angles on tools with a focus on the most suitable geometry for small/ less rigid lathes.
Positive cutting geometry, tiny nose radius. Basically more pointy more better. Look up the old published bit geometries and grind them for the "softer" materials on the charts.
Unfortunately that's going to give you the least desirable surface finish. And a tool that won't last as long. But everything is a trade off.
You can use more traditional tools with light passes your machine can handle for the finishing passes. Or finish it with something like a shear tool or sandpaper
Thanks for taking the time to post this I found very useful
I'm really enjoying your content and think you should have a lot more subscribers ! Folks who enjoy home shop machinist content on TH-cam and haven't subscribed are missing out. Cheers !
That's a beautifully made tool.
Grinding a nice clean radius is always a bit if a challenge to do by hand, looks good but the cut is the test! :-)
Excellent explanation, now tempted to try my own tool grinding. Thanks
The loupe was a nice touch👍🏼
Thanks Mr Crispin. Generous with your instruction as ever.
Bad boy grinding on the side of the wheel
And thank you for all those contemplating their early attempts at a successful tool.
I have been freehand grinding for decades (4) using a bench grinder and have had to attempt to teach how it's done several times.
I wish I had had this video to show them Before I did!
As good a discription of an essential and frequent task as I've ever heard.
Yes, there is more subtleties, yes there is much to experience..
But, if my daughter absorbed this lesson she would be able to step up to a grinder and make a tool that would cut.
Well done Mr. Crispin.
Another very informative video. Thanks very much. Dean.
fantastic video - thank you - i love how much the study of geometry applies to machining!
Nicely done, Mr. C
Always very interesting thanks for sharing 👍🇦🇺
hi mr crispin very nice rendition of grinding also as a guitar player i like your rendition of freight train just clicked model trains freight train
Thanks
Very crisp McRispin cheers from OZ.
That's a sexy grind, Mr. Crispin.
Nicely done! I found that very interesting.
An interesting and informative video... Thank you.
Brilliant. And also, you have a toolroom microscope!
It would appear you are holding back quite a bit and there is a lot more you do in that workshop of yours than just making a locomotive!
At the moment it is pretty much just Locomotive but I have plans to get in to the building of piston Aero Engines at some point. Scale radial engines ect.
Superb, well presented and appreciated. Thank you :-)
Thanks for the video. Interesting info. Keep safe and stay well.
Perfec skill mr.
Thanks
Thanks for sharing. Great video
Very well presented explanation asper
Loads of good information there, thank you 😉
If Your rest does not tilt, You can put something parallel on it, to raise the tool and to change the angles. Or take some super glue and stick a wooden wedge on it.
Yes either would work. I think the solution would be to make a tilting rest but I'm not opposed to free hand grinding as it gives great versatility. When it comes to drills you have no choice.
@@MrCrispinEnterprises The hollow cut from the grinding wheel, which is then created automatically, makes it much easier to use the grinding stone.
Stay healthy!
Kind regards from Germany
Big fan of Mr. Crispin =)
I was going to make the same point, certainly makes grinding a radius easier with an angled toolrest as you can concentrate on the shape not the relief angle.
Lovely stuff as usual. Thanks 😊
Very interesting. Thanks. Is it possible to purchase a t-shirt, like the one you are wearing in the video?
I think I got it off a T shirt website after a google search
Excellent explanation and camera work !
With the affordability of insert tooling and cheap drill bits the basic skills like grinding a HSS tool bit or sharpening a drill seems to have faded a bit which is a shame .
One thing i do know for certain is if you never try you will never master it !
Nicely done. :)
Excellently explained, but I'm curious as to why you didn't angle the grinding wheel rest plate to give you an acceptable rake or clearance angle.
Regards Mark in the UK
Basically because on that Grinder you can move the rests in and out but they don't tip. I may modify them at some point.
Thanks for such a quick reply. Yes, I suspected it was that simple, but at least there may now be another future project???
You could use angle blocks to get it dead on
Great informative video. Will you be showing the tool at work?
Yes see my next video
excellent! Thanks for sharing
If you want to remove a large portion of HSS angle grinder is a tool to go .But use stainless steel 1mm cutting discs.With ones for steel it will take forever.Dont worry about overheating it ,it wont temper it enough to matter.I also welded it with stainless steel electrodes.
Good point.
I find regular cooling helps the fingers, not too concerned overly with any possible temper problems.😉
My thoughts exactly
Plus 1 on the angle grinder. A big time and grinding wheel saver!
Doesn't top rake angle offset edge away from center of workpiece? How good does the side cut if it's not centered?
By and large slightly below center is not a problem in terms of chip forming. Above centre certainly would be an issue.
What grit of wheel are you using?
Very well presented explanation as per usual Mr Crispin, do you find the finger that applies the radial force gets bloody hot during this exercise?
Yes although with practice you feel it less.
😁😁
Just the job
Hello sir make a video how to granding motercycle tool 45degree angel
Sorry for having to correct you but you’ve got too much clearance on the front of the tool so don’t be surprised if you end up with chatter marks when cutting cast iron. Try reducing the front clearance a bit and then see what difference it makes.
He knows that and actually tells you in the video.
Good point and yes there is excessive relief.
👍🏻
what, no carbide? ;)
I thought this was going to be about a nose tool of the round type, not a tool of the round nose type.
🔧😊👍
Helo ser
:-)