That was extremely satisfying seeing you describe what the grinding pattern should be on the spindle only to achieve that exact finish a moment later. Some invaluable knowledge has been gained! Merry Christmas and a happy new year Crispin
When I worked at Jones and Shipman, building your 540 as it happens! on the cylindrical grinders, we called that the crosshatch finish, nice tutorial by the way, cheers, Dave
As you have enjoyed making, we have enjoyed the consuming of your instruction, entertainment and presentation of material and its removal! See you in 2023!
Thirty minutes of invaluable instruction. Thank you for this and for all of your many other excellent videos. Wishing you a very pleasant and peaceful holiday season from Germany.
As one who has completed an apprenticeship in Fitting, Machining and Tool making many years ago, I find your explanation on this matter, to be outstanding. Many thanks.
Thoroughly enjoyed the video. I was recently studying dressing and truing when I came across this video, completely changed my prospective and understanding of the topic from a more realistic point of view.
This was actually completely and simply understandable... Well explained and touched upon... Grinding is more of an art than it is direct machining, which is why it falls under metalworking black magic, like knurling tapers and such... Its why a good grinder is not a good machine, its a tandem of the operator and the perfectly maintained machine, working in sinc, with the operator taking lubrication(coolant), grit size, abrasive type, material type, stepover, feed approach, stepdown depth, dressing method for the wheel, workholding method, general speeds and feeds, spindle oil temp, shop temp, coolant flow, a whole shitload of factors into consideration, to allow the machine to do what it theoretically can do if all those conditions are met and monitored...
As always - another great classroom session. This time the dark art of Grinding. You've brought it to light professor! Well done. You're humor is outstanding and enhances the videos to no end. Have a great Holiday.
Hello Mr. Crispin. I also have a toolpost grinder and I picked up a few tips from this video. Thanks. I had a similar problem to you with mounting of chucks on the lathe. I bought a 28" four jaw chuck for my large lathe (Broadbent-Schofield BSC) and it had a D1-11 taper on it. My lathe had a flanged spindle nose (common on large English lathes of that era, 1960's). I had to machine the D1-11 taper out so it could fit on the flanged spindle but my other lathe wasn't large enough to swing the chuck. After scratching my head for a few hours I hit upon the idea of mounting the chuck backwards on the spindle by using the four jaws to grip the OD of the spindle flange. With some brass shims to protect the spindle flange and some dialling in I got it running flat and concentric to 'dead nuts' accuracy. It was then a simple matter of boring out a diameter and shoulder to fit the flange. And yes, I did measure up the flange before I mounted the chuck so I would know what size to bore the chuck to. Have a merry Christmas. Ken
I have came to your channel a few weeks ago, and am very glad I did. You are an excellent teacher! A plus is that for me (non native english speaker), you sound very much like Sean Connery.
All is well they were cheap, I couldnt pass them up. I'll use one (TheMac J4) on a small mill that I have to make myself a tool and cutter grinder of sorts. The Dumore 5 will be used on the lathe. That was a nice trick with the angled spacer plate by the way.
Great explanation! It all made sense for me at 10:00. I’ve often considered the same regarding lacing when fly cutting, seems the same principles may be involved. Happy Holidays and looking forward to 2023.
what a great video. I'm restoring a 1967 chipmaster and may wish to grind the spindle to attain the best precision possible. This video will aid my endeavours greatly. I dont yet know if my spindle needs grinding because one of the cams is jammed and I haven't attempted to remove the badly damaged cam yet. But I now feel confident on overall direction for my restoration
An alternative would be to just carefully stone any high spots off but I think you can't beat a regrind. (Providing any required bearing adjustments are made first)
@@MrCrispinEnterprises I invested in a tool post grinder and plan to make a slim 5C collet chuck to fit the 4.5MT bore and finish truing the bore with the grinder. I can't think of a better time to also grind the spindle face and taper if necessary.
Hi There. Lots of Info on grinding etc, which is very informative. I don't have a grinder, but the previous Grinding of the Spindle Assembly gave me lots of information, which is invaluable. Keep up the good work. Have a really Great Christmas & a very Innovative & Prosperous New Year
Thank you Mr. Crispin, that was superb. A very Merry Christmas to you! As for your brother, well, I hope he finds a fresh toothbrush in his stocking. 😁
Another very interesting video, l do not have any grinding equipment but your explanation has answered other questions about engineering that I didn't quite understand. Great tutorial once again. Regards Gary
Solid presentation as always. I hope to mount a toolpost grinder soon, so this and the previous videos are extremely welcome. Merry Christmas and best wishes to you and yours.
You are a natural teacher the information is clear interesting I have enjoyed this year's video and looking forward to next year's keep the information video coming
Happy Christmas Mr Crispin. I have a similar issue with my Hardinge lathe. I won't touch the spindle nose, beyond my pay grade. However, the three jaw mount will need cleaning up some how.
Help! I need to grind the face of my lathe spindle just as you did (at 10:39), but I can't find a cup wheel of suitable diameter. I think yours looked to be about 40mm in diameter. Careful observation of your video shows it to be a Norton with something like 2A60 J5V and MAX1241 on the label, but you devilishly always had your thumb over part of the label. Norton doesn't seem today to have any wheel with that code or of less than 70mm diameter. I am stumped. Thanks for excellent advice on grinding technique, about which I knew nothing.
I don't think the label is very legible but yes Aluminum Oxide and 60 grit would be a good starting point. If you have a look at how the grinding videos developed intended up using a 3" wheel as it was far more effective at face grinding that the 40mm wheel I started with. If your grinding spindle can cope with the 70mm wheel I'd go for that.
I have a question that I've thought about a bit since I retired: How much coolant is proper for different types of grinding? I observed OD grinders at work with copious coolant flows and _think_ that I remember being told that the relatively high coolant flow rate out of the nozzles was used to "blast clean" (my words, not theirs, I think) the wheels by flushing metal particles away from the wheels and minimize "clogging" of the wheel surfaces. Of course, these were industrial OD grinders with ~4-inch (~100-mm) wide wheels that were ~4-feet (~1.2-m) in diameter (which I suspect wasn't large by industrial standards), so maybe what I'm remembering only applies to "large" wheels? Of course, the coolant jets couldn't be too strong to avoid breaking the wheels down prematurely which I remember seeing when experimenting with a different bond wheel type. Are my memories too foggy and incorrect or am I remembering at least _some_ of it correctly? Have a nice holiday and hopefully Santa will bring your Brother a new toothbrush (that I'm certain you'll "borrow" for use in your workshop)!
Yes you get many different coolant applications. The traditional type is flood coolant where its similar flow and pressure to a standard household water tap. You then have more industrial pumps and filtering systems that deliver much more coolant to fully immerce the cutting zone and the coolant might also be delivered from multiple directions and angles. You then can go all the way up to high pressure coolant which might be upwards of 50 bar. These tend to be smaller and more direct nozzles and it's this type that really clean the wheel. So basically yes all kinds of variations from low pressure flood coolant on open machines all the way up to very high pressure and flow.
Merry Christmas Crispin! I do hope Santa brings lots of new toothbrushes for your brother - so you can steal them of course and a decent dental plan for him as well as i feel he might have a smile like an Edwardian Street urchin because you keep knocking off his toothbrush🤣 If your merch can be shipped from within Australia, I'm in! Iron on patches for my dust coat would be nice also !
I’m a 40 year machinist at University of alaska. And I have my shop at home. I do enjoy you explaining things that I do without even thinking about it and I do like your theory of everything. It’s very good.
Excellent presentation. I'll be looking forward to you explaining why meticulous machinist use a bare hand to wipe mating instead of a rag. Merry Christmas to you and yours. And my you have a great and healthy new year.
Old 1920's Machinist Books mention that you can feel a very small Burr or Bit of Dirt that will be missed when using a rag. Or as the Nun's would say in Grade School, " Cleanliness is next to Godliness".
Great video and well explained Could you please show how to dress the wheels squarely and at desired angles, I am a little lost at this part of the process
Happy New Year 2023 Mr. Crispin. May I request that you do a programme on how to design and machine a flexible joint for conducting superheated steam, like one you would require in a Mallet-type or a Garratt-type articulated locomotive? If possible, please include a commentary from Mr. Gibbon as well. Thank you.
Hi Mr Crispin Great instructional video, the only problem is that I don’t have a surface grinder to put the knowledge to use do if you feel like a challenge then I have a M&W inspection square that really needs re grinding.
A question. When grinding the taper on the spindle with a conical wheel, you have differing speeds due to the change in diameter or circumference of the grinding wheel, and also an inverse diameter or circumference of the part being ground. Technically, the wheel being the sacrificial item, won't that also impact the finished surface dimensional accuracy?
You seem very knowledgeable and i have to ask how do you mill something flat when it is bent (1mm bow) without it starting to vibrate? (relatively thin like 15mm, decent size like 800mm by 600mm), today i had to mill exactly that and i ran it at like 200mm/min feedrate and 315rpm .. if i go to 400-500rpm it instantly starts to vibrate, same with the feedrate.. I used clamps on 2 sides which press down and in (couldn't use clamps on the other sides because the bed of the mill is too small). If i were to clamp it down really tight it would spring back as soon as i released the clamps no? I mean now its relatively flat i would say like +-0,07mm. If you were to use a magnet table it would spring back as soon as milled/ground aswell i would assume?
Yes that's right weather its by clamps or magnets if you bend it down it will spring back after machining. You could try putting it on the table with the bow down so that its rocking and then put shims under where you are going to clamp. The idea is to shim the gaps so that when you clamp it it doesn't bend. Once you get one side flat then you are away.
Merry Christmas mr Crispin. You showed with bluing that the face of the spindle was flat but that the grind marks showed that only one side of the wheel was touching- what is the significance on a day to day application, ie can a minuscule bowing of the surface exist, not demonstrable with bluing, or is the grind pattern for cosmetic reasons?
Basically it was already very flat and now it is still very flat! It would have been fine how it was bit criss cross is the ideal. Yes in theory a very slight bow would be present with no criss cross
Thank you, that was quite interesting. One thing I've wondered about with surface grinding is wear on the dressing diamond. Is it just too small to be of concern? Or do you have to "spark off" on the diamond as well to take care of any minute wear which might occur during the dressing?
Just found your channel. Is this model surface grinder feeding the 'Y' during the 'climb' grinding stroke? While operating a manual tool room grinding machine, I only fed the 'Y' during the convectional stroke. Just a toolmaker OCD watching videos. Keep up the great content! I can only feel and hear the machine working. Why not set the angle on the toolpost grinder for the spindle nose on the compound, and use the 'Y' for the facing?
👍 great work and explanation. Why did the blueing show a flat surface? I would have expected a dished cut if the wheel was not flat to the spindle. Happy holidays to you and yours my friend!
Thank you Mr Crispin for all the informative and educational videos. Seasons greetings to you...and may Santa deliver a new toothbrush for your brother. I still await the day that you miss when tossing your hat. (perhaps a "blooper" video in the near future)
That was extremely satisfying seeing you describe what the grinding pattern should be on the spindle only to achieve that exact finish a moment later. Some invaluable knowledge has been gained! Merry Christmas and a happy new year Crispin
I can't believe I watched this with a straight face. I'll be here all week. badum tish!
Seriously, I learned a lot. Thanks for sharing.
When I worked at Jones and Shipman, building your 540 as it happens! on the cylindrical grinders, we called that the crosshatch finish, nice tutorial by the way, cheers, Dave
Learned a lot within half an hour, thank you so much for putting out those videos! Have a good one!
As you have enjoyed making, we have enjoyed the consuming of your instruction, entertainment and presentation of material and its removal! See you in 2023!
Thanks
That was informative and enjoyable. The Deckel hat toss was appropriate.
man you are very intelligent, thank you for sharing your vast knowledge 😁👍
I have never had the compulsion to buy merch before but that was before Mr Crispin's swimwear collection.
“The willing man will find a way.”
Where have I heard that before? 😊 Love that you carry the tradition of greats.
It bears repeating: Your apprentices are lucky to have you!
Season’s greetings, and I will be here awaiting your return :)
Try telling them that!!
@@MrCrispinEnterprises 😂
… maybe you should have let them model the swimwear after all?
Thanks for the video which was interest,hope you have a great Christmas and NewYear Mr Crispin.👍👍
Thirty minutes of invaluable instruction. Thank you for this and for all of your many other excellent videos. Wishing you a very pleasant and peaceful holiday season from Germany.
Many thanks Bruce and thanks for the kind donation you have made. Cheers.
Wow! You are the first person to explain the grinding wheel cutting/wearing to me, and me understand it. Thanks a lot 👍
That was brilliant. Your apprentices are very lucky to have you as a mentor.
Well done, sir.
As one who has completed an apprenticeship in Fitting, Machining and Tool making many years ago, I find your explanation on this matter, to be outstanding. Many thanks.
What a load of , really interesting stuff, thanks .
Very well discussed video on the technical aspects of grinding.
Lol I had your video on the big 85 inch screen and wow so good to watch your video other then my phone love it
The algoritm for me was spot on this time. Great content!
That crisscross pattern is beautiful! Great explanations and demonstrations as always!
Thoroughly enjoyed the video. I was recently studying dressing and truing when I came across this video, completely changed my prospective and understanding of the topic from a more realistic point of view.
It all makes perfect sense.
Not sure whether to be more impressed by the information or by the live, unedited hat throw. Good show.
I agree. Of course, that may have been take number 27, we will never know.
This was actually completely and simply understandable... Well explained and touched upon... Grinding is more of an art than it is direct machining, which is why it falls under metalworking black magic, like knurling tapers and such... Its why a good grinder is not a good machine, its a tandem of the operator and the perfectly maintained machine, working in sinc, with the operator taking lubrication(coolant), grit size, abrasive type, material type, stepover, feed approach, stepdown depth, dressing method for the wheel, workholding method, general speeds and feeds, spindle oil temp, shop temp, coolant flow, a whole shitload of factors into consideration, to allow the machine to do what it theoretically can do if all those conditions are met and monitored...
Good point
very enlightening. thank you for this
As always - another great classroom session. This time the dark art of Grinding. You've brought it to light professor! Well done. You're humor is outstanding and enhances the videos to no end. Have a great Holiday.
Thanks
And a merry Christmas to you to Mr Crispin 👍
Thank you for on-topic, clear explanations.Time watching this was well spent.👍
This was a fantastic video!
Hello Mr. Crispin. I also have a toolpost grinder and I picked up a few tips from this video. Thanks. I had a similar problem to you with mounting of chucks on the lathe. I bought a 28" four jaw chuck for my large lathe (Broadbent-Schofield BSC) and it had a D1-11 taper on it. My lathe had a flanged spindle nose (common on large English lathes of that era, 1960's). I had to machine the D1-11 taper out so it could fit on the flanged spindle but my other lathe wasn't large enough to swing the chuck. After scratching my head for a few hours I hit upon the idea of mounting the chuck backwards on the spindle by using the four jaws to grip the OD of the spindle flange. With some brass shims to protect the spindle flange and some dialling in I got it running flat and concentric to 'dead nuts' accuracy. It was then a simple matter of boring out a diameter and shoulder to fit the flange. And yes, I did measure up the flange before I mounted the chuck so I would know what size to bore the chuck to. Have a merry Christmas. Ken
Hi, yes I've arrived at a very similar conclusion as you will see in the new year. Cheers.
Fascinating, all has been revealed. Have a very good holiday.
Hats off for Mr Crispin! Difficult topic, clearly explained. Thanks, Sir, your aim is better than most...
Thanks again for sharing your vast knowledge ,merry Christmas and a happy new year 🎊🌲
A VERY MERRY XMAS MR.CRISPIN.👍
Thank you, wonderful explanation
I have came to your channel a few weeks ago, and am very glad I did. You are an excellent teacher!
A plus is that for me (non native english speaker), you sound very much like Sean Connery.
Glad to have you watching
very valuable information, thank you very much Mr Crispin
I got excited about your last tool post grinder video and went looking on eBay. Next thing you know, I have two tool post grinders.
Oh dear! Sorry!
All is well they were cheap, I couldnt pass them up. I'll use one (TheMac J4) on a small mill that I have to make myself a tool and cutter grinder of sorts. The Dumore 5 will be used on the lathe.
That was a nice trick with the angled spacer plate by the way.
Very interesting and looking forward to more. Have a merry Christmas.😊
Thanks
Excellent theory in your videos. 👌
Thanks
You have extensive knowledge for your age, it's great that you share it for others to benefit. Excellent video!
Thanks
This channel is great.
Thanks
Very interesting!
Thanks.
Excellent demonstration. I am definitely looking forward to the New Year's projects. Thanks for bringing us along.
Great explanation! It all made sense for me at 10:00. I’ve often considered the same regarding lacing when fly cutting, seems the same principles may be involved. Happy Holidays and looking forward to 2023.
Thanks for all the videos of 2022, MrCrispin! Looking forward to what you have to share in 2023!
what a great video. I'm restoring a 1967 chipmaster and may wish to grind the spindle to attain the best precision possible. This video will aid my endeavours greatly. I dont yet know if my spindle needs grinding because one of the cams is jammed and I haven't attempted to remove the badly damaged cam yet. But I now feel confident on overall direction for my restoration
An alternative would be to just carefully stone any high spots off but I think you can't beat a regrind. (Providing any required bearing adjustments are made first)
@@MrCrispinEnterprises I invested in a tool post grinder and plan to make a slim 5C collet chuck to fit the 4.5MT bore and finish truing the bore with the grinder. I can't think of a better time to also grind the spindle face and taper if necessary.
Seasons greetings to you too Crispin, this was another interesting lesson, thanks.
Hi There. Lots of Info on grinding etc, which is very informative. I don't have a grinder, but the previous Grinding of the Spindle Assembly gave me lots of information, which is invaluable. Keep up the good work. Have a really Great Christmas & a very Innovative & Prosperous New Year
Thanks
Thank you Mr. Crispin, that was superb. A very Merry Christmas to you! As for your brother, well, I hope he finds a fresh toothbrush in his stocking. 😁
Another very interesting video, l do not have any grinding equipment but your explanation has answered other questions about engineering that I didn't quite understand. Great tutorial once again. Regards Gary
Thanks for the lesson- it was extremely clear and helpful. 👍🎄👍
Excellent explanation Mr C. Happy Christmas and have a great new year.
Thank you for another great video :)
Merry Christmas!
Thank you for the education, very clear and always interesting. Merry Christmas
Merry Christmas and a Happy New Year to you. I like how you have transgressed into Ornamental Turning using the grinding wheel nicely done.
Enjoyed your videos over the year and look forward to marry more to come hopefully in the new year. Wishing you a very Merry Christmas,
Thanks
Solid presentation as always. I hope to mount a toolpost grinder soon, so this and the previous videos are extremely welcome. Merry Christmas and best wishes to you and yours.
Thank you for all your post throughout the year sir. Merry Christmas 👍
Excellent explanation again. Looking forward to next years progress. Have a very Merry Christmas and a Happy New Year.
Here in the US we call tour "lace finish" a CROSSHATCH pattern.
Nice video- interesting channel . Merry Christmas to you !
Thanks
You are a natural teacher the information is clear interesting I have enjoyed this year's video and looking forward to next year's keep the information video coming
Thanks
Cheers, enjoy the days off. I will get a shirt now for myself: I survived grinding theory.
Very informative. Cheers and Happy Holidays.
Merry Christmas crispin and keep up the good work.
Thanks Kevin
Happy Christmas Mr Crispin. I have a similar issue with my Hardinge lathe. I won't touch the spindle nose, beyond my pay grade. However, the three jaw mount will need cleaning up some how.
Thank you for such a clear explanation. Oh to be one of your apprentices. Happy new year to you. Looking forward to seeing your videos in 2023. 👏👏👍😀
Thanks
Merry Christmas and a happy new year and thank you for the videos.
merry Christmas , well explain and very amazing satisfying job
Have a great holiday Mr C, hope bro gets a new toothbrush....
Help! I need to grind the face of my lathe spindle just as you did (at 10:39), but I can't find a cup wheel of suitable diameter. I think yours looked to be about 40mm in diameter. Careful observation of your video shows it to be a Norton with something like 2A60 J5V and MAX1241 on the label, but you devilishly always had your thumb over part of the label. Norton doesn't seem today to have any wheel with that code or of less than 70mm diameter. I am stumped. Thanks for excellent advice on grinding technique, about which I knew nothing.
I don't think the label is very legible but yes Aluminum Oxide and 60 grit would be a good starting point. If you have a look at how the grinding videos developed intended up using a 3" wheel as it was far more effective at face grinding that the 40mm wheel I started with. If your grinding spindle can cope with the 70mm wheel I'd go for that.
@@MrCrispinEnterprises Thanks.
Really well explained and enjoyable to watch. Have a great Christmas!!
¡Feliz Navidad and good luck from Spain!!
Hello Mr. Crispin,
An interesting video, many thanks. Wishing you a Merry Christmas and Happy New Year.
Take care.
Paul,,
excellent video as always. Merry Christmas and a happy new year Crispin
I have a question that I've thought about a bit since I retired: How much coolant is proper for different types of grinding? I observed OD grinders at work with copious coolant flows and _think_ that I remember being told that the relatively high coolant flow rate out of the nozzles was used to "blast clean" (my words, not theirs, I think) the wheels by flushing metal particles away from the wheels and minimize "clogging" of the wheel surfaces. Of course, these were industrial OD grinders with ~4-inch (~100-mm) wide wheels that were ~4-feet (~1.2-m) in diameter (which I suspect wasn't large by industrial standards), so maybe what I'm remembering only applies to "large" wheels? Of course, the coolant jets couldn't be too strong to avoid breaking the wheels down prematurely which I remember seeing when experimenting with a different bond wheel type. Are my memories too foggy and incorrect or am I remembering at least _some_ of it correctly?
Have a nice holiday and hopefully Santa will bring your Brother a new toothbrush (that I'm certain you'll "borrow" for use in your workshop)!
Yes you get many different coolant applications. The traditional type is flood coolant where its similar flow and pressure to a standard household water tap.
You then have more industrial pumps and filtering systems that deliver much more coolant to fully immerce the cutting zone and the coolant might also be delivered from multiple directions and angles.
You then can go all the way up to high pressure coolant which might be upwards of 50 bar. These tend to be smaller and more direct nozzles and it's this type that really clean the wheel.
So basically yes all kinds of variations from low pressure flood coolant on open machines all the way up to very high pressure and flow.
Loved it! Great content and I learned a lot :)
Merry Christmas Crispin! I do hope Santa brings lots of new toothbrushes for your brother - so you can steal them of course and a decent dental plan for him as well as i feel he might have a smile like an Edwardian Street urchin because you keep knocking off his toothbrush🤣 If your merch can be shipped from within Australia, I'm in! Iron on patches for my dust coat would be nice also !
Thanks Ian. Yes Australia is covered.
Good information thank you
I’m a 40 year machinist at University of alaska.
And I have my shop at home.
I do enjoy you explaining things that I do without even thinking about it and I do like your theory of everything. It’s very good.
Excellent video ! When are we getting a tour round this lovely workshop
Excellent presentation. I'll be looking forward to you explaining why meticulous machinist use a bare hand to wipe mating instead of a rag.
Merry Christmas to you and yours. And my you have a great and healthy new year.
Old 1920's Machinist Books mention that you can feel a very small Burr or Bit of Dirt that will be missed when using a rag. Or as the Nun's would say in Grade School, " Cleanliness is next to Godliness".
@@NRDavis-wl8vn As a very old machinist I'm aware of the reasoning but greatly appreciate your feedback
Great video and well explained Could you please show how to dress the wheels squarely and at desired angles, I am a little lost at this part of the process
Have a look at the video 'Re-grinding a lathe spindle nose'
Fascinating yet again Mr Crispin. Have a super Christmas and a Happy New Year to you and yours. Cheers.
Happy New Year 2023 Mr. Crispin. May I request that you do a programme on how to design and machine a flexible joint for conducting superheated steam, like one you would require in a Mallet-type or a Garratt-type articulated locomotive? If possible, please include a commentary from Mr. Gibbon as well. Thank you.
That's a very detailed request! I'll make a note of it
@@MrCrispinEnterprises, Thank you Sir.
Hi Mr Crispin
Great instructional video, the only problem is that I don’t have a surface grinder to put the knowledge to use do if you feel like a challenge then I have a M&W inspection square that really needs re grinding.
Merry Christmas to you in return.
A question. When grinding the taper on the spindle with a conical wheel, you have differing speeds due to the change in diameter or circumference of the grinding wheel, and also an inverse diameter or circumference of the part being ground. Technically, the wheel being the sacrificial item, won't that also impact the finished surface dimensional accuracy?
I think the actual differences over that length of taper at that angle are small enough that the discussion is purley academic!
You seem very knowledgeable and i have to ask how do you mill something flat when it is bent (1mm bow) without it starting to vibrate? (relatively thin like 15mm, decent size like 800mm by 600mm), today i had to mill exactly that and i ran it at like 200mm/min feedrate and 315rpm .. if i go to 400-500rpm it instantly starts to vibrate, same with the feedrate..
I used clamps on 2 sides which press down and in (couldn't use clamps on the other sides because the bed of the mill is too small). If i were to clamp it down really tight it would spring back as soon as i released the clamps no? I mean now its relatively flat i would say like +-0,07mm. If you were to use a magnet table it would spring back as soon as milled/ground aswell i would assume?
Yes that's right weather its by clamps or magnets if you bend it down it will spring back after machining.
You could try putting it on the table with the bow down so that its rocking and then put shims under where you are going to clamp. The idea is to shim the gaps so that when you clamp it it doesn't bend. Once you get one side flat then you are away.
Merry Christmas mr Crispin.
You showed with bluing that the face of the spindle was flat but that the grind marks showed that only one side of the wheel was touching- what is the significance on a day to day application, ie can a minuscule bowing of the surface exist, not demonstrable with bluing, or is the grind pattern for cosmetic reasons?
Basically it was already very flat and now it is still very flat! It would have been fine how it was bit criss cross is the ideal. Yes in theory a very slight bow would be present with no criss cross
Thanks for the info, you are up late!
And condiments of the seasoning to you mr crispin
Thank you, that was quite interesting. One thing I've wondered about with surface grinding is wear on the dressing diamond. Is it just too small to be of concern? Or do you have to "spark off" on the diamond as well to take care of any minute wear which might occur during the dressing?
No diamond is considered hard enough to be a constant during the time period of one dress cycle. Over the time they do indeed wear but very slowly.
When will they offer the Mr. Crispin hats?
Just found your channel. Is this model surface grinder feeding the 'Y' during the 'climb' grinding stroke? While operating a manual tool room grinding machine, I only fed the 'Y' during the convectional stroke. Just a toolmaker OCD watching videos. Keep up the great content! I can only feel and hear the machine working.
Why not set the angle on the toolpost grinder for the spindle nose on the compound, and use the 'Y' for the facing?
Hi, it feeds on both strokes.
when are you gonna start back on the locomotive build again. ive been waiting years to see it finished. lol
So have I! It is re starting in 4 videos time. The 5th video of the year should be the return of the Locomotive.
👍 great work and explanation.
Why did the blueing show a flat surface? I would have expected a dished cut if the wheel was not flat to the spindle. Happy holidays to you and yours my friend!
Well the error over the width of the wheel was probably only 3 or 4 tenths of a thou which is flat enough for the blue to fill.
Merry Christmas to you and your family, I hope your brother gets a new toothbrush 😂
Thank you Mr Crispin for all the informative and educational videos. Seasons greetings to you...and may Santa deliver a new toothbrush for your brother. I still await the day that you miss when tossing your hat. (perhaps a "blooper" video in the near future)
Good idea although I would of course have to deliberately miss!
You would be a excellent teacher in some other life.
Is that D1-6 spindle?
Yes and Thanks