This is the method I used to fix my situation: Thermostat housing was leaking like crazy so I kept tightening the bolts, thinking it would solve the leak, ended up breaking the bolt and now I had a broken bolt and a leaky thermostat. To remove the broken screw/bolt I had to make a tiny hole on it using a cordless drill and some very small drill bits, used penetrating oil as lube and after a good hour or so of drilling in incremental sizes (1.5mm, 2mm, 3mm) I was able to create a little hole big enough for a reverse drill / broken bolt extractor to fit in and get that pesky broken bolt out of there.
From what I gathered researching for this issue is that these leaks are definitely caused by the previous gunk/rust residue creating an uneven mating surface between the block and the thermostat housing/gasket. To clean it off I used a razor to remove the chunky residue, very carefully not to scratch the metal, and then I used wet sandpaper grit 500, 1000, 2000. Doesn't need a lot of sanding just enough so that the surface is smooth, doesn't need a mirror finish. Give your new thermostat mating surface a quick little 2000 grit sanding as well just in case. And then clean both surfaces with a little bit of alcohol and let it evaporate, make sure its bone dry. After I used an RTV or Gasket Maker, and put it on the mating surface, just a little bit all around, it really doesn't need much at all, just enough to make a thin film and I installed the new thermostat and housing by hand tightening the bolts, afterwards waited at least 24h before torquing to final specs. Some RTV are different and you don't need to wait, it should say on the box. About the torque, you're better off seeing what grade and diameter your bolt is, and searching online the recommended torque values for it, because my car's torque sheet was a bit confusing and originally I ended up torquing 20nm on a bolt was supposed to be 10.5nm (8.8 grade 6mmx16mm bolt) which caused the broken bolt in the first place. So be careful with the torquing and look up the bolt specs and torque before properly tightening it. And it worked, no issues so far!
@@tallcamaroguy I envy you bro, had a nightmare with my car, thought at some point I messed it up for good, i'm no mechanic, but everything worked out good
@@dunnoboah when I first got that car and tried to change thermostat the right bold broke so I drilled 3 holes in the bolt to get the bolt out, now after watching videos the next bolt I try to get out I will probably use welder and nut because that seems to be the easiest way
@@tallcamaroguy yup, most online stuff i've seen points to the welded nut being a great solution, I didn't go for it because I never really welded anything (just soldered some led's together 🤣) but honestly, drilling the holes is a long drawn out process that involves a lot of stress and a few broken drill bits! I needed a lot of faith and patience in the end...
I have the same issue on 2010 maxima but I can’t the the bit in the tight space to drill the broken bolt out, just put it back together with 2 bolts and it still leaks, not sure where to go from here.
It makes sense! My bolts are rusted, I cleaned them up good before reinstalling but did not clean the holes; I'm getting a leak from my thermostat housing. I'm going to the hardware store for some new bolts right now. Thanks for the info!
The issues with a thermostat housing is just two bolts to fasten it to the engine. Three fasteners would be more stable and more beneficial with sealing.
I'm having this issue now on my 3rd attempt and Gasket- going to buy a new housing and sensors while in there - never cleaned where the bolts go , just the bolts... I replaced gaskets before and never had this issue
Thanks for the video. My 91 Ford e350 was overheating so I switched out the thermostat( resent purchase and didnt know maintenance history) which was covered in rust. When I put it all back together and drove her around the neighborhood I started getting coolant leak out of the thermostat housing. Thought maybe I put the gasket on wrong but now I'm wondering if all the rust around the bolts is the culprit. Will check it out:)
I had the exact same problem with my 99 mustang. It is leaking from the thermostat housing and I'm so glad that I found this video it's going to help so much
I see mine leaking, right? Okay... coolant is still leaking downside the back of the motor on to the ground. Question- do you think it’s the coolant running downside the intake manifold and dripping down. Or is it the intake manifold itself. Obviously I see the thermostat housing leak from standing & looking down at my car.
Yea this make sense I cleaned both the holes out pretty good for the bolts, but shining my flashlight down in them I can still see crap. I couldn't even get it all out with the compressor. I used a bunch of rtv and that sealed it up better because the gasket that came with my housing is pretty crappy too. Added some more washers and that made it better, but it's still seeping a tiny bit so gonna take it back apart use a new gasket and go ham on the bolt holes. Due to the stupid location of the housing on the 2nd gen I couldn't even get all the old gasket off considering how much everything is in the way. Got most of it, but I'll give it a try again tomorrow after letting everything get hot then hopefully the rest of the material will come up.
This is the method I used to fix my situation: Thermostat housing was leaking like crazy so I kept tightening the bolts, thinking it would solve the leak, ended up breaking the bolt and now I had a broken bolt and a leaky thermostat.
To remove the broken screw/bolt I had to make a tiny hole on it using a cordless drill and some very small drill bits, used penetrating oil as lube and after a good hour or so of drilling in incremental sizes (1.5mm, 2mm, 3mm) I was able to create a little hole big enough for a reverse drill / broken bolt extractor to fit in and get that pesky broken bolt out of there.
From what I gathered researching for this issue is that these leaks are definitely caused by the previous gunk/rust residue creating an uneven mating surface between the block and the thermostat housing/gasket. To clean it off I used a razor to remove the chunky residue, very carefully not to scratch the metal, and then I used wet sandpaper grit 500, 1000, 2000. Doesn't need a lot of sanding just enough so that the surface is smooth, doesn't need a mirror finish.
Give your new thermostat mating surface a quick little 2000 grit sanding as well just in case. And then clean both surfaces with a little bit of alcohol and let it evaporate, make sure its bone dry.
After I used an RTV or Gasket Maker, and put it on the mating surface, just a little bit all around, it really doesn't need much at all, just enough to make a thin film and I installed the new thermostat and housing by hand tightening the bolts, afterwards waited at least 24h before torquing to final specs. Some RTV are different and you don't need to wait, it should say on the box.
About the torque, you're better off seeing what grade and diameter your bolt is, and searching online the recommended torque values for it, because my car's torque sheet was a bit confusing and originally I ended up torquing 20nm on a bolt was supposed to be 10.5nm (8.8 grade 6mmx16mm bolt) which caused the broken bolt in the first place. So be careful with the torquing and look up the bolt specs and torque before properly tightening it.
And it worked, no issues so far!
Glad I didn't have all that trouble, just had to clean bolt holes
@@tallcamaroguy I envy you bro, had a nightmare with my car, thought at some point I messed it up for good, i'm no mechanic, but everything worked out good
@@dunnoboah when I first got that car and tried to change thermostat the right bold broke so I drilled 3 holes in the bolt to get the bolt out, now after watching videos the next bolt I try to get out I will probably use welder and nut because that seems to be the easiest way
@@tallcamaroguy yup, most online stuff i've seen points to the welded nut being a great solution, I didn't go for it because I never really welded anything (just soldered some led's together 🤣) but honestly, drilling the holes is a long drawn out process that involves a lot of stress and a few broken drill bits! I needed a lot of faith and patience in the end...
I have the same issue on 2010 maxima but I can’t the the bit in the tight space to drill the broken bolt out, just put it back together with 2 bolts and it still leaks, not sure where to go from here.
It makes sense!
My bolts are rusted, I cleaned them up good before reinstalling but did not clean the holes; I'm getting a leak from my thermostat housing.
I'm going to the hardware store for some new bolts right now.
Thanks for the info!
Did it work
Will the thermostat work without a gasket or a home remedy homemade gasket like a tube glue like sealant work??? THKS
Maybe something like jb weld, why would you not try to use a gasket that fits?
The issues with a thermostat housing is just two bolts to fasten it to the engine. Three fasteners would be more stable and more beneficial with sealing.
U just saved my truck
How?
I have been fighting this problem for awhile now, going to try this. Thanks
Can you just retap the holes then add a solvent to the bolt holes to dissolve the rust, retap again, then blow the holes out?
The rust was in the bottom not in the threads in my situation
I'm having this issue now on my 3rd attempt and Gasket- going to buy a new housing and sensors while in there - never cleaned where the bolts go , just the bolts... I replaced gaskets before and never had this issue
Thanks for the video. My 91 Ford e350 was overheating so I switched out the thermostat( resent purchase and didnt know maintenance history) which was covered in rust. When I put it all back together and drove her around the neighborhood I started getting coolant leak out of the thermostat housing. Thought maybe I put the gasket on wrong but now I'm wondering if all the rust around the bolts is the culprit. Will check it out:)
I had the exact same problem with my 99 mustang. It is leaking from the thermostat housing and I'm so glad that I found this video it's going to help so much
Having the same issue right now! I'll try this to see!
Thanks! I got the same problem...will try this.
I see mine leaking, right? Okay... coolant is still leaking downside the back of the motor on to the ground. Question- do you think it’s the coolant running downside the intake manifold and dripping down. Or is it the intake manifold itself. Obviously I see the thermostat housing leak from standing & looking down at my car.
Could be either one, just got to watch during warm up and cool down
Good job on this video. Useful.
Good tip thank you!
Do you know how long so it can dry?
Yea this make sense I cleaned both the holes out pretty good for the bolts, but shining my flashlight down in them I can still see crap. I couldn't even get it all out with the compressor. I used a bunch of rtv and that sealed it up better because the gasket that came with my housing is pretty crappy too. Added some more washers and that made it better, but it's still seeping a tiny bit so gonna take it back apart use a new gasket and go ham on the bolt holes. Due to the stupid location of the housing on the 2nd gen I couldn't even get all the old gasket off considering how much everything is in the way. Got most of it, but I'll give it a try again tomorrow after letting everything get hot then hopefully the rest of the material will come up.
What are you working on ???
@@tallcamaroguy 2nd generation Dodge ram (V8)
Thank you!!! This was my issue!!!
How long u wait with sealant to drive
Just put a new gasket on there, no sealant
Great upload helped a lot!
Good video
Do you need to remove the engine to insert the bottom bolt on a thermostat housing
Lol
It depends on the engine- very unlikely though
🤣