GM 3100,3400 Thermostat Replacement
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- เผยแพร่เมื่อ 22 ก.ค. 2024
- GM 3.1L,3.4L Thermostat Replacement
Disclaimer:
This video is not meant to be a definitive how to.Always consult a professional repair manual before starting your repair.I am not responsible for any problems that you might incur by watching or following this video..Follow at your own risk. - ยานยนต์และพาหนะ
Did this job last night. Here's an alternative if you don't have a wrench like that: Pull the throttle body. It will give you access to that bottom bolt and allow you to use a regular combination wrench.
It doesn't really save any time as you have to disconnect some hoses and sensor connectors but it does make the job possible without any special tools. Plus, you can clean the throttle plate before putting everything back together.
Didn’t improve access on my 2000 Pontiac Montana. :( Too many lines around. Still had to come from below with a tiny 8mm wrench that only gives a twelfth (1/12) of a turn per flip that you will drop every flip or so since you can only manipulate it with your fingertips (made breaking the bolt loose just as difficult). The 12 point VW carb wrench he had would’ve been much appreciated since there is a 50/50 chance you will get the wrench backwards when you get it back in place. Of course, there’s a good chance you will drop it AGAIN only to get it seated after a third attempt to find that you are in the same orientation you last were and you STILL need to flip the wrench. A few more drops and you’ll be praying for a meteor to end it all when you’ve tried to seat the wrench 10 times to get one more 12th of a turn.
I will NEVER start this job again without an S-Type “Obstruction Wrench,” VW Carb Wrench, GM Thermostat Wrench, or similar. The right tools are cheap and the hours of frustration to do it without them just isn’t worth it!
@@emmettturner9452 Sorry it didnt help for you. I have blocked most of the repairs I had to do to that thing out of my mind since I got rid of that van.
If you have a Pontiac Grand Am or Chevy Malibu removing the throttle which is only a couple more steps really helps make more room and will actually save you time fighting with getting the bolts off. Plus a bonus you can clean the throttle which is always a plus
Works on the rendevous 3400. Good tip.
Good tip, saved time absolutely. I watched another video where a guy pulled the exhaust. Are you kidding.? In
Never thought peter griffin would explain how to replace a t-stat
Shut up, Meg
Lol im dying over here 😂😂😂. I love the response " shut up meg" lmfao
I have literally went back and read this like 5 times and laughed every time 😂😂😂😂😂
Dude u really messed this up for me . Lol I thought I was in Boston the whole time. Now I gotta watch someone else ur funny af
🤣🤣
After watching this vid today, I decided that I could pull this off. However, I do wish I would've read all the comments and realized that the bottom bolt didn't have to be taken all the way off to remove the housing. The job took me 4 hours. That bottom bolt is a PAIN! I tried removing the crossover pipe but didn't have any luck. Anyway, thanks for the vid! my hands are sore now, lol.
DUDE! THANK YOU! I have a neighbor who needed this done and she asked me to help her out. Being a man I of course said "you betcha." I opened the hood of the car and thought "no way!" I went to my computer and goggled and up popped your vid. I honestly would not have even tried without your showing how it was done. Thanks again!
One of the best how-to mechanic videos I've seen. You do a great job of explaining exactly how to get at that difficult bolt, real good job! I'm sure I'll be checking more of your vids out in the future as I work on different vehicles. Keep up the good work! : )
Thanks for the video! I changed the thermostat yesterday on my 2002 Impala 3.4L. The bottom bolt sucks. Even with the "slotted" housing, I couldn't pull the housing out with the bottom bolt partially in due to interference from the coolant pipe, throttle, and heat shield. Some things to gather up for anyone considering this: various 10mm&13mm sockets & extenders. A curved or stubby 13mm wrench. Liquid wrench. Telescoping mirror to see things. Spring clamp pliers. PATIENCE. Thanks again!
I'm a CDJR tech and I have to say bud you make a really good How-To video! It gives me some good ideas for how to make a few myself on the CDJR line ups, so THANKS
I love how thorough you describe the steps an warnings of how not to loose the frigan bolt , awesome job I appreciate you and your help :)
Thank you for the video. Ordered one of the below wrenches listed at Amazon listed below. Also went ahead and bought a set of the crescent shaped wrenches like the one you used at Harbor Freight today for about $18. Hope to tackle this job before summer. Thanks again
Great video and you had really good control with the camera while you were doing it and explaining it. Also, great tips as well. Mine is stuck closed and I have to change it as it looks like a pain in the ass but going step by step and being patient, the job gets done. Thanks for your video!
Thanks so much. I managed to change my thermostat about 8 years ago. Now I need to do it again and I couldn't remember how I did it the first time! They really put it in an inaccessible place. Thanks for the refresher!
Thanks man. This video allowed me to fix it myself instead of asking for help
Great to hear!
Really good job on the video. I came to the same conclusion on the bottom bolt, the housing won't slide over the thermostat unless the bolt is removed. I did find it gave me more room after removing the heater tube from the water pump, removing the hoses and lifting it up out of the way. The bleeder bolts usually aren't corroded up because they are brass and in antifreeze so no problems there and you always need to bleed the system.
Thanks for the help richpin!
This job took me 8 hours on my 04 Monte Carlo 3.4L without taking off the exhaust crossover or heat shield. Most of the time was trying to get both bolts back in with such little room. FWIW, I purchased the Calvin GM Thermostat tool but that did not have enough clearance to be of use. I was able to get the bottom bolt with ease using a standard flex head ratcheting 13mm wrench. I was able to fish my hand around behind the brake fluid reservoir and underneath the crossover pipe. What a pain GM!
Whats a flex?
Read all of the comment
Tim T I'm about to do this to my 04 monte carlo 3.4 any other advice?
I am Russian guy, and your direction helped me to replace thermostat on my Chevy Malibu by myself! Thanks a lot!
"The smaller hands you have, the better" LOL! The story of my life! Thank you for the tip on using a screwdriver for leverage, and how you leaned on the fender and used your left hand. These "Mechanics Yoga" tips are priceless.
Thank you for this video. I used it to replace the thermostat on my daghter's Lumina. It was 100% on. That lower bolt is a pain in the rear end. Thanks again.
Thanks for the video. I went out and bought a flex head ratcheting box end wrench at Lowes for about $22.00 and it was well worth it. 13mm is 1/2", so I put a 1/2" rachet into the open end of the box end wrench for leverage on the bottom bolt. On the top, I used a universal on a wobble head extension. It worked great. Unfortunately, I dropped the top bolt and now it has disappeared. I guess I will go shopping tomorrow.
just want to say thanks for this video. helped a lot. however I was able to get the housing off and back on without removing that bottom bolt. I did remove the throttle body. made job easier
Thank you SO much. very well done video. The towels were a good idea to catch falling tools, bolts,etc. But I ended up using a hard-access, curved 11mm/13mm double box-end wrench and tieing a string to the 11mm end, attached the other end of the string to the carb. so I could easily fish out the dropped wrench - which I did MANY times. This allowed me to dispense with the towels. I also backed out the bottom bolt just enough to clear the thermostat so there was no need to restart the bolt (so glad I did that) ... After 4-1/2 hours, half of which were filled with cursing, I got the job done for $15 instead of $400. Great excuse for a warm down in the hot-tub licking my wounds after prolonged torture. Your hands must be miniscule!
You did the right thing by just backing out the bottom bolt enough to clear the thermostat. The housing hole in the bottom is designed with a slot so you don't need to take the bolt out.
I tried to leave the rear bolt in and can start it from the front as it seemed youre suppose to slide the aluminum piece in but there is just not enough room to leave the rear bolt in and and get the aluminum tube back in over the thermostat...tomorrow im going to try lay on top of the engine..I too spent like 4 hours...everything cam out nicely but I could not get the lower rear bolt in no matter what
I am a novice mechanic. I used this video to replace the thermostat in a 1996 Buick Regal with a 3100 engine. This video is right on the money! The one issue that I ran into was that I couldn't break the bottom bolt free. So, I had to get the wrench on the bolthead from the front of the car while my cousin held the wrench on the bolthead with a bar. The bolt quickly broke free from this position.
Also, I had to bleed my system of air. The bleeder screws worked perfectly. I now have great heat!
I had to replace my thermostat today. I followed your advice except I removed the throttle body and the coolant pipe. The bottom bolt was still tough. I used a shorty wrench with a screw driver to hold it in place. It worked. Thanks for the video.
Ouch!
That rag idea is gold, Rich. Often the key point is a 'beside the point' comment that one can take away later.
yep, that's what I normally do when i get those answers from you and the other great mechanics on here. Thanks though Rich, Your always a huge help. Even when you don't have all the answers you still the best. Thanks.
Great video! I struggled with that 2nd bolt on the thermostat, even dropped it 3 times. Thank God for a magnetic telescoping wand to retrieve it. I wish I had a curved box wrench like you used it would have made it easier to do.
Thanks! Could not have done it without this video. Others want you to take the throttle body off and I really didn't want to do that. Took lot's of prayers too! A couple things I noticed, the angle is higher than I though it would be. And I couldn't do the left handed thing. Went underneath the exhaust manifold like you did with the left but I did the right hand balanced the bolt on my finger tips. Stuck a screw driver in from the top with my left to put pressure in on the bolt, (had the top bolt in finger tight like he said), reached out with my left pinkie and wiggled the neck of the pipe around until I felt the bolt drop into the hole. Then with the screw driver still pressing in, I started spinning it with my right fingertips. Got enough threads in to keep it from falling out and put the open end wrench on it. Also, I could not find a Volkswagen carburetor wrench so I cut a couple inches off my 13 mm open end and used that.
Thank you for taking the time to post this very helpfull video
thank you so much for your video on changing the thermostat on my 2005 Pontiac Grand Am and I did not know how in the world to get that bottom bolt off this video helps so much much appreciated
I would not have known what to without your video and instructions thank you
Rich, Finally got one to install correctly. Initially I bought a stant superstat. After comparing it to the one being replaced noticed that the upper part of the cone was a bit taller than the original. Replaced the superstat with an original stant which had roughly a 1/8" smaller cone.
I normally take my time - the exhaust is in the way but the bolts look rough and I didn't want to touch them. So I took off the hose off the fuel rail and removed the sensor above it from the throttle body giving my enough room to get my wrench in and loosen that infernal second bolt.
Great Vid by the way - thanks for posting!
Thanks Rich, my wife just bought an '05 Buick Rendezvous with a 3400 engine and she does all the work herself, and the thermostat needs changing
Thank you sir for sharing your knowledge.
Greatly appreciated!
Glad i watched this, i started working on a friends 3.4 and ran out of daylight. I was worried i might have to take the coolant pipe out but i might be able to get in there if i move the airbox... Haha "all i removed was the intake tube". Also great idea putting the rag in there to catch bolts, i will start at it in the morning again
I also wish to join the chorus of thanks. This video was just the information I needed. I didn't have the curved wrench that you have. After looking around the internet I found a specialty wrench on eBay called a Cal Van 751 GM Thermostat Wrench. It is a U shaped wrench that fits under the exhaust manifold to get that lower bolt. I had to place a piece of wood on top of the transmission block to hold this wrench in position. I also had to use a 8" cheater pipe to get enough leverage to finally get the lower bolt to loosen up. After that, it was just as you showed. Thanks again!
you have actually saved me $700 thank you
Great video. Wish it were up two weeks earlier when I did mine. Sure was tough getting the outlet off. After struggling with that bottom bolt, I ended up taking off the TB and it made a huge difference. My next purchase will be a set of GearWrenches, since I used the open end of my combination and it took forever.
I don't understand why the OEM manual suggests taking off the crossover, I think that would be inviting trouble. Anyway, well done.
Great video, REALLY appreciate the "rag" tip! Bad enough when you loose a bolt and it falls through into gravel, but a magnet will retrieve it pretty quick. WORSE when it falls into some crevice of the engine and you can't see or get to it! Thanks much! Maranatha
The slot on the thermo house is meant to loosen the bottom bolt and slide it off w/o removing the bolt.
Yeah to bad theres a thermostat in there.....
With the thermostat in there you can't slide it off. Tried for hours so you have to remove that bottom bolt
Thanks for the walk through. It was a life saver
Great video! I can't thank you enough! I have an '02 Alero 3.4L so it was a little different. Not an easy job but MUCH easier after watching you.
The guy at Autozone said the instructions he had in his computer system said that you need to take the exhaust manifold off. I can see how that would make it easier but after looking at those bolts, I didn't want to take the chance of breaking half of them off.
My son is taking his driver's test this Friday and they won't let you take the test with the "Service Engine Soon" light on. Thanks to your help the light is off and we're good to go!
I am glad your light is out that is good news.
I just looked at Autozone's self service pictures, and they showed pictures of the 3.1 MPFI - yeah, the old 2.8/3.1 design! I looked for my brother's 97 Monte and I know it has the 3100 and is not the same! Autozone is about as worthless as they get!
Thanks for the help on this project, I found that I just took the air cleaner tube and the throttle body off and I could get to the bolts. The top one needs to come out, but the bottom one does not. You can just loosen the bottom bolt and the housing will slip off of it. Take Care
Great video! I'm changing one tomorrow, hope it's as easy as you make it look:)
Thanks I appreciate all your videos
Thank you, it really helped me and it's a done job! Again Thanks!
Thanks for the very informative video-helped a lot.!!!!!!!!
Buddy you are speaking my language, I was gonna do it a similar way but thought I'd check the tube before i dive in. I'm gonna try my best to use a 13mm 1/4" drive wobble socket to get that bottom bolt. Great video fren. Thanking you
Hope it works for you.
I did everything as you showed, except used a ratcheting wrench on the bottom bolt. It worked well. The whole job from opening the hood to finish around 35 minutes.
Good job sir... Good camera angles and descriptions... Thanks
I know this is old but thanks for the video it helped me alot. Also, i've found it easier if you remove the throttle body first before removing the thermostat housing. Made the job a WHOLE lot easier and I didnt have to buy that special tool. Once the throttle body was out of the way, I was able to use a 13mm wrench to remove the 2 bolts to the thermostat housing. For those wanting to know where the throttle body is, at 2:17 is part of the throttle body at the top of the screen. The throttle body is secured by 2 13mm bolts.
lothdragoon The only reason i and others out there did not remove the throttle body is the extra work involved and a new gasket other than that it would indeed make the job easier.
Nice video. One thing I noticed is that the thermostat housing lower bolt hole is notched. All that would be needed is to loosen the the lower bolt and remove upper bolt to get it out saving some time from taking it all the way out.. If its the factory housing it looks like GM already knew how bad it would be to get at the bolt and made it that way to help. Keep the videos coming!
Hi Rich.... Am having to do this job for the second time on a 2000 Montana. Always appreciate your videos and your creative tips. Thanks to 13mm ratcheting wrenches, I managed to get off both both bolts this time, surprisingly easily. BUT (keeping me humble), once again, I'm unable to get the thermostat housing off, without more serious "surgery" on the patient. I'm rather amazed by your demonstration (at minute 2:45) that once you get the housing bolts off, it's then easy to slide the housing off. If only. Maybe for other GM vehicles, yet for the Montana/Venture, that exhaust wrap around seems too tightly situated on top of the thermostat housing -- preventing me from simply sliding it off. (the thermostat underneath makes it impossible to remove, or for that matter put a new one in) Like the last time, I suspect I'm going to have to take off the throttle body and the coolant bypass pipe.... (and even then, I wonder...)
Same problem, same 2000 Montana. No way to slide it on/off with a thermostat protruding into the housing. Backing out the bolt enough to get the housing off is almost pointless since you have to back it out almost all the way. It took hours of fumbling with the open end of my 13mm ratcheting wrench to get it one tiny fraction of a turn at a time. The domed shape of the housing is too close for the ratcheting end of the wrench to fit over the bolt head.
Mine is the Quinn ratcheting wrench from the 428 piece Master Technician tool set. It doesn’t look much bigger than the smallest of the big brands so I don’t think GearWrench (the brand that invented ratcheting wrenches) or anything more respected would’ve made a difference for me. :(
Greatly appreciated!
Thank you,
Benjamin
I have a 2002 Pontiac Grand Prix with the 3100 engine. I tried following these instructions, except for the bent wrench; a regular wrench works too. But you can only get 1/12th of a turn at a time. I did't see how a bent wrench could help. I spent the better part of an hour in the sun taking this bolt partially out. It would not slide out!
Initially I avoided taking off the Throttle Body, but when I did suddenly everything became so much easier. The job was done in 15 minutes after that. So TAKE OUT that throttle body if you think it's in the way. Don't forget to get that gasket when you buy a thermostat.
Luckily I didn't have to take out the exhaust manifold; that would have been a total pain!
Great video, I have just replaced it in my Buick Century 3.1. Thanks!
I just did this job and it can be done much easier then all of the youtube videos I've seen showing you how to do it. You will need a 13mm VW carb wrench which can be bought on ebay.
You don't need to remove anything accept the air box duct and lid
Once thats all out of the way go under the crossover pipe with the vw wrench and get it on the bottom housing bolt, it helps to have a flat head screw driver above the crossover helping get the wrench on the bolt. Once that bolt is broke loose, your your index finder on your right arm still reached under the crossover bar and the flat head coming in from the top to back the bolt out. Go ahead and take it out and use a socket to remove the top bolt. Remove the housing and bad thermostat.
Apply a thin line of silicone around the rubber gasket on the new thermostat on the side that faces in the engine and position is in there. let it cure for 24 hours.
Now prior to putting the housing back on, put the bottom bolt back in barely screwed in at all, by about one thread.
Remove the two bolts on the on the heat shield at the front of the engine, you dont have to remove the heat shield removing these bolts will free it up enough to get the thermostat housing past it and the thermostat and onto the bottom bolt that is barely started into the block. You may need to use the flathead to help push the shield out of the way as you work the housing on. You'll have to come in from the top and it might take a couple of tries but its doable. Be careful not to knock the thermostat loose or you'll have to re-silicone it and wait another day, it should be pretty sturdy though if the silicone cured all the way.
Once you got the thermostat on the bottom bolt, go ahead and start the top bolt to keep it in place then put the bottom bolt in the same way you took it out, right hand index finger on the bottom and flathead screwdriver on the top, then tighten with carb wrench.
Thanks for this video. I have no idea how you're getting your hands in some of those places, as I've struggled a great deal to get that lower housing bolt off, but I finally did it. I also had the thermostat stuck in the housing which delayed me a bit. Regardless, not having to remove the exhaust manifold cross-over pipe saves a lot of time and hassle. I also appreciate the tip about the s-shaped wrench. I had to go buy one but that did help. Now lets hope I actually fixed the correct thing!
I have no idea how he was getting his hands in those places the under the manifold trick helped me get the lower rear bolt off...Every thing came off in a matter of minutes but several hours later no matter what I tried I can not get the lower bolt back in...tomorrow im going to try to lay on top of the engine..
Excellent video, thanks!
this motor is a damn good reason to own ratcheting box wrenches LOL
Thanks for the vid Rich, I was able to change out my thermostat (2x actually) on my 2003 Rendezvous from watching your video. It was a pain in the ass though.
Yea i just did one the other day and i found it not to be so bad! took me about 25 30 mins to do the whole job!
Excellent video. I was exteremely frustrated when I changed the themostat and there was no change to my overheating problem. Then I remembered to bleed the radiator...it gurgled for a bit and the temperature was finally stable! I did have to remove the bottom bolt...it was impossible to get the housing back on with it in place. Hopefully I can get a few more miles out of my 2003 chevy impala (197,000)
I rarely comment on anything...However, great video! I believe that the 3.4 is a royal PITA. That second bolt on the thermostat housing is just ridiculous. Anytime I work on this car I wish that GM actually went out of business. The major reasons their products suck are the fact that most people cannot / will not pay for simple maintenance procedures due to the cost for labor. Then there is premature wear and the whole vehicle heads to the junk heap.
First of all, THANK YOU for taking the time to make this ‘how to’ video; it’s VERY helpful. I‘m still having some problems, however, replacing the thermostat on my 2000 Buick Century.
I can’t remove the upper bolt on the Thermostat Housing; I don’t know if it’s frozen in place or, I just can’t reach it well enough to get a good grip on it (or both). There are two horizontal pipes in the way, one’s black and the other’s silver. I tried ‘liquid wrench’ on the bolt and gave it several good taps, but it won’t budge.
To access the bolt better, I tried to remove the Throttle Body. I removed the nut on the lower right side of the TB (in front of the small black plate that’s attached to the black pipe). However, I can’t seem to remove the stud bolt that comes from the Throttle Body and extends through the slot in the small black plate.
I’m wondering if I should try to remove the black and silver horizontal pipes that are blocking access to the upper bolt on the Thermostat Housing. By the way, the lower bolt on the TH also seems be frozen or, I can’t get enough leverage (or both). I would appreciate any advice that anyone can give me. THANKS!
As a former NAPA parts guy, I can offer some major advice before even installing the new thermostat. This is a game changer and can help you save damaging your own car and whatever else is in the general area as well (you are welcome lol).
First thing is to "pop" the thermostat open gently by opening the center with both of your fingers/thumbs to make sure it won't stick initially closed since they sometimes do that (more than a few mechanics told me about this) and can cause your engine to overheat- and one more overheating might just be the one that warps that head!
Be sure to check the thermostat by boiling water in a small pan and put the new thermostat in the pan to observe it open properly, that way you know it actually works and not partially or not at all since sometimes they are shipped with "issues" as I've seen them come right from the factory not opening properly. You can either leave it in the pan to cool down and watch it close properly or take it out with a pair of tongs or a fork etc. making sure not to jam something into the part that closes in the thermostat.
I personally have found 2 "brand new" thermostats that wouldn't open up right and was able to work the part open & closed to get them to work right since they apparently were misaligned from the factory, but couldn't see it right away- was on new Honda thermostats as NAPA used to get their Honda replacement ones from Honda back in the 90's. I can say that the 1996 3.1 Monte Carlo engine is the SAME setup as the above, so yup you have a nightmare of a time changing the thermostat from 1995 to 2003 that I know of sadly... I almost want to look for one of those thermostat housings that are mid-hose (like some of the Olds & Buicks from the 90's) that just drop-in the thermostat- but not sure of the exact year & model cars to check lol!
excellent advice. Alas, Two years ago, I replaced a thermostat on a Montana van. Used a thermostat with a "lifetime" warranty -- bought at AAP. Part for the course there, the T-stat apparently has been sticking for over a year..... and I kept thinking, through all the trying everything else that, no, it can't be the T-stat, I just changed that..... grrrr..... (til I got to the point that I'd ruled out everything else.....)
This time, I bought an ac/delco . Yet even with this one, tested it first.
Just boil a pot of hot water then throw the thermostat in and watch if it opens. It’ll open when hot close when cold. If it opens take it out of the hot water and wait to see if it closes if it dose your good to install it.
Thanks for the great video Ted!
good video.. i was frustrated with that bottom bolt.. now I know how to get on it, thanks!
Good to know that there is a problem with the superstat....glad you got it fixed.
If it has a jiggle valve that goes up but the ones i replaced did not.Did you compare the new to the old one to make sure it was the right one before installing.
Yeah I noticed that also. Now I have better confidence in doing the job now. Just completely loosen and take out the top bolt but just loosen the bottom one till u can slide the housing out. Sweet!
gotta tell you thanks for this vid. it helped a lot . . .thank you
okisaru I
Very good video!
Thank-you richpin06a your video made it so much easier for me to change the thermostat on my 96 Pontiac Grand Prix with the 3.1 litre engine -- The video was very informative and useful -- Thanks Again !!!!!
3.4L grand am is a little different but close to the same...anyways the video definitely helped...i was told i would've had to take the throttle unit off itself but i guess the boot was enough...that bottom bolt was a SOB...but i got the job done...thanks..!
Great vid an great help...
I loosened the heat shield from the exhaust, then put a very short 13 mm socket onto the bottoe bolt. It's very tight fit but it will go on. For the socket, use one that will allow you to use a open ended wrench on the end. Do this just enough to loosen the bolt and take the socket back off before finger loosening the bolt or else you will pich your socket in between the exhaust and the thermostat housing.
Larry Wilson the real mvp here folks. thank you!
Yes this was better than the video lol. Thank you sir.
thanks, everything is finished, now I'm going to do the bleeder process
The bottom bolt is very hard to remove, replace the thermostat and the temperature sensor of my 2003 Montana take me all day, thanks per the video and comments was very helpful
Hey thanks for the help ray romano!
Watching this I am wondering if you can leave the bottom screw in place, as I noticed a slot on the housing. I am thinking the slot would allow to leave the bottom bolt in place while removing the housing after loosening the bottom bolt to allow that. I have a 2005 Impala, 3.4L
The 3100 i worked on last week i left the bottom bolt in but on this one i could not.
Good video, top tips!
Glad i could help.
Thank you for the reply, will have to look into that.
Great video and very informative. I only have one hint. If you noticed when he removed the thermostat housing the spot for the bottom bolt was a SLOT and not a HOLE. This makes it unnecessary to completely remove the bottom bolt. You only should have to loosen it a couple of turns. Lighten up on GM, they're working with you... a little.
thank you rich for the info
Anyway- thanks for the vid Rich- it was quite helpful
Great video
great video
Your video was very helpful thank you, the only thing I would change is to mention about he sealer/gasket glue.
If you use a new o-ring gasket there is no need for sealer.
@Datwhit That is what i though with the slot in the housing but with the bolt out to the end of it's threads the hosing still would not come out.
I have not cleaned a throttle body on the 3100,3400 so i am not sure if it is the same as the saturn.
thanks for the video. Would pulling the throttle body make it any easier or just more time consuming? I have big meathooks that probably won't get around that exhaust X-over
hey do you have any videos on changing the O2 sensor and also were there all located
What I did on my Pontiac with the 3.4 is I took off the throttle which ain’t too hard. Just unplug all the sensor wires around the air box and throttle remove the breather hose loosen the clamps and remove the air intake hose and air filter box. Now unclamp the clamps on the two hoses going to the throttle and let the coolant drain. Now unbolt the throttle leave the cables in place just put the whole unit up and away. Now you can unbolt the thermostat hosing. It’s a couple more steps but I just find it more easy then trying to fight with the bolts for 20 to 30 minutes sometimes longer.
After trying numerous times in replacing the housing. I noticed that the new thermostat I bought which was a stant superstat was noticeably taller (the cone) than the original one. I swapped this superstat with a standard stant thermostat which was shorter and was able to finally get the housing back on. It took a few tries, but I was able to clear the thermostat and get it back on. I removed both bolts when removing the housing.
Thanks for the vid, helped out a lot. Still a pain in the butt! I have an 02 buick rendezvous and the lower bolt on the thermostat housing is near impossible to get to. Could barely touch it with my fingers. It looks like they had the space to make it more accessible and just didn't. Wondering if this was fixed in later models.
Need to know is their other temps available for thermostat or only the 195*
Will be replacing thermostat on my Impala and Grand AM SE....thanks for the video! I've seen several ways of getting the bolts out with special tools gonna try to attack it with my offset ratcheting Lang set or universal drive with extender. Just curious if ya remember what size are bolts?
Trenton Harland I believe the bolt heads were 13mm.
I am with you 100% i can not understand why the slot is there but does not help one little bit.
very good video. thanks