Graduated cylinder.... I'd suggest using straight isopropyl for your your final cleaning or even the brake cleaner, which dries with no residue. "Rubbing" alcohol generally has a small castor oil component and by tax law must have a poison to limit human consumption. Neither of which are ideal for you blueing process. What a great little tool Mr. P. Thank you for sharing the build.
Many years ago, my friends dad told us to use lacquer thinner instead of model glue. He said hold the parts together, and dip a toothpick into the lacquer thinner and just touch it to the joint. It worked, as it spread out through the joint and the plastic welded together.
Years back I cold blued a tube bending machine, I made based on plans I purchased from Rudy Kouhoup. The results were great but I had to cold blue it three times to get a deep finish. This video was truly informative to me. I was completely ignorant of heat coloring of steel. Thank you!
When we didn't have heat sticks we use a pine stick. You rub the stick until it left a black mark. That ment it was hot enough to put the bearing on or temper a knife. Seemed to work.
In most of the heavy, metal turning channels (like Abom), the chips coming off the work quickly turn from silver through straw-color to blue in a couple seconds. Lots of heat is generated plus the chips are not very thick. It's interesting to see. The blueing on old guns (like Smith & Wesson) is very beautiful. Lots of manual polishing when labor was much cheaper. We're of similar age so I think you'd agree, a lot of things were much better 20-30 years ago. Is that a Smith I see at the end of your video?
WD 40 works well for an initial oiling since it displaces all. Moisture. a lot of guys I've found out don't realize our favorite all around oil is Water Displaces #40. It does work but not that great depending on what your lubricating I like zoom turbine oil the little extended tip helps a lot another great video
Thank you again Mr. Petersen for passing along your knowledge and craft. You have a way of making your viewers feel that we're right there with you in your basement shop. Love these videos- thank you.
Great video! I've watched before, but as I'm thinking of bluing a pistol frame, I need all the help I can get. Have you blued aluminum? I think they have another product.
I used to blue blades on high carbon steel pocket knives to protect the blades from rusting in my pocket. I kept an old aluminum stove top coffee pot to boil water for rinsing because the metal would self dry. I told my college chemistry teacher I was having trouble understanding a process, she grabbed me and asked if I was going to be a Chemist. When I said no, she said "Just memorize it!" Genius, yes! We did hardening and tempering by color in HS Machine shop. Yes it is purty. Good looking tool.
Interesting. I hadn't seen bluing done before except by heating brass (clickspring's videos). What is the purpose of the bluing other than looks? Ditto for the oiling? Simply to prevent rusting? Thanks.
the blue in both cases is a thin layer of non rust oxide witch prevents rust(the destructive oxide). It also may make the surface harder and more scratch resistant ( I am not entirely sure this is the case for steal it is for aluminum)
I enjoyed your presentation. I am 70 and like to take it slower and easier now, instead of, hurry, hurry, and hurry. Thinking about the way you were heat treating and I am looking forward to trying that out using my gas oven top burners. I would bet results would be fabulous. I haven't seen you fabricate the clamps you heat treated, however, that's next. Thanks again for the leasure show.
I still have the one I made in high school. The Shop teacher (Mr. Mac) case hardened it in a little kiln, and it really didn't change colour (yes I'm Canadian so I spell color colour) very much, but it still works and is rust free after 45 years.
I wasn’t a gun smith, just an armorer. However, I have cold blued many guns and parts. A couple of suggestions, first, degrease the piece a little more throughly, a little more scrubbing with the alcohol, maybe 2-3 Times. Then, when you apply the blue, if the piece has a brushed look, applying the bluing with a clean scrubby pad works wonders. Then, a warm bath to wash off bluing, followed by re-applying the bluing gives a darker, deeper richer. Color. The final wash off of the bluing salts, at least twice, is critical to avoid rusting, and of coarse the application of oil, (starret of course!).
I like the base that you added to the 3 and 1 oil can to prevent tiping. I will be adding one to my locktite bottle asap. Thank you for your Infinite wisdom.
I have watched this video after it has some age on it. Great information. I have also seen another video on a channel called thecogwheel , in it he does a process he calls 1hour red rust bluing. Well worth the watch, he gets great results. Thank you sir for all you have shown me through your videos!
I've touched up a lot of guns with this stuff, and I've blued a lot of my reloading dies with it. What works best for me is polishing anything you'll blue to a mirror finish, that's the most critical part of an old school looking bluing job. Then clean it with brake cleaner. After that, use a hair drier on it and get it pretty warm, not excessively but warm enough it's uncomfortable to hold. Then lather the stuff on heavily. A lot of times I'll actually start coating the part in oil as I'm rubbing the bluing on. On some metals it seems like the oil gets the bluing chemical to penetrate better, but you need to really saturate everything heavily. Afterwards, clean it with brake cleaner again, rub it down with steel wool, and repeat the process as many times as necessary to get it to look nice. I like using a wax based spray on chemical to protect blued finishes, as it totally seals the metal and will make it safe to get modestly wet. I bet car war would work well too. In my state just oil isn't enough to protect bluing from instantly rusting.
Thank you mr pete. I've not found a TH-cam video that describes the process so eloquently and so plainly at the same time. Straight talk is the only way. Thanks again for all your videos.
Another TH-camr named Clickspring uses heat to blue small clock parts. He uses flame to heat a brass tray filled with brass shavings and the part to be blued. The shavings distribute the heat, and he gets a beautiful product. I can't seem to post the link here, but if you search for Clickspring you will find him. The video is titled "Home Machine Shop Tool Making - Making a Versatile Bluing Tray." I wonder if this would also work with hot sand surrounding the part. Could the part be inspected periodically to see how far along it is? Thanks again, Mr. Pete. This is a great video.
Mr Pete, I believe they are called Graduated Cylinders. I had a grade school English teacher who was some what of a witch, but my senior year English teach was super cute.
I belive you can take almond or walnut wood or almond shells or walnut shells ground to fine powder soaked in distilled water and place your metal in that leave over night or cook it to create a Form of bluing.... Even coffee grinds can be used
just borrowing the comments to ask a question. ;) I always wondered if the black tip on a screw driver is needed or not. for example, if I chip one of my screw drivers and the re-grind it and often times you need to grind down to thickness too. should I blue or oxidize it somehow? thanks!
I use the Birchwood casey super blue. Always keep a bottle in my shop. From what I've heard, its a more potent solution so it'll work on a wider range of steel alloys. I haven't used the perma blue, but it looks like it did good also.
We used to do metalwork here in England in the 70s, made lots of small tool projects, what we used to do was to heat to about the same temp as you did and quench in old engine oil. This makes an even black finish. Very easy, even us kids could do it !!! I work in engineering still after 40 years, still using school metalwork skills.
I have two of those thermoplates in my lab. The newer models have temperature indicators that more realistically correlate to the temperature of the plate, but often you want such a precise temperature you would never rely on a built in indicator anyway, just a properly calibrated thermometer. we use them for all sorts of things, but primarily for heating volumes of liquids in pyrex containers for making buffers and other chemical solutions may I suggest seating the piece to be blued in a bed of sand or my favorite: brass chips? It seems to conduct the heat better to irregular objects that way
Mr Pete, a couple of points, Go to the dollar store and get a spray bottle and some bubble juice. Use that to find the leaks in your air system. This is why I never throw out a good spray cleaner bottle. Then you can fix them and save wear on your compressor and have air available all the time. I wired a clock into the motor circuit of mine to verify that it will sit all week without coming on until I use some air again. If you set your parts in a tray or pan of brass shavings, copper filings, or even sand when heating, the color will be much more uniform. See videos at Clickspring. Any oil or fingerprints will leave marks or splotches that may or may not be attractive. These are caused by the different rates of oxidation. Holding your clean thumb on a part for a minute to deposit oils and acids will mark your tool with your thumbprint for ID. You can try different things for effect, striping with a brush or polka dots with a swab for example. Blowing through a straw on different areas will vary the temperature and oxygen level changing the color. With practice you can simulate color case hardening. If you quench in oil the suface pores will fill and further "rust proof" the parts. Better yet, after quenching bake the oil in at about 400°F for half an hour to seal the surface. Do this when your wife is not home and clean the oven and air out the kitchen after! A good reason to have an old stove in the shop. I have always felt that if you make a tool look nice like a tool it will get treated like a nice tool. Despite the efforts of a great many researchers the world over, there isn't, and there never will be a cure for stupid. Maybe only natural selection or zombies. This is a nice set of videos and I thank you for them and all of your others, too. Mike (o\!/o)
For a cold blue, 44/40 also covers good. Both will "keep" longer if they are varnished. A quick niter blue can be made with 2/3 lye and 1/3 sodium nitrate (or saltpeter), and also works good for tempering by color. When it melts, you hang the parts in, and pull them out when they get the shade you want. The high temperature will alter the temper on heat treated stuff, though. For a real durable blue, "Mark Lee #1 rust blue" works well, and only takes boiling water to set the stain.
For anybody who wants to try heat tempering to generate colours, "Clickspring" has videos of a clock project where he is using blued steel fittings as a contrast to brass, and has instructions for making bluing trays using brass shavings to spread the heat evenly.
I like to use Precision brand tool black.. Quart bottle is kinda pricey but lasts a long time.. Put it in a spray bottle.. Clean with mineral spirits first then super clean before applying the tool black.. LOL nice Webley.. Love mine!
For an alternative to ear swabs, check out RamRodz. Their .22 swabs are a good size for general use, the swabs are low lint, and the sticks are bamboo so they don't snap. Great for cleaning pistol barrels too! Brownells sells them for a low price. Also, I recently got a California Air Tools compressor, it is amazingly quiet and they have great customer service. It makes less noise than a conversation! So if you need to replace your compressor, I'd recommend taking a look at their offerings.
Nice video as always thanks Mr Pete I prefer cold blueing more than hot method I believe with heating up some small peices can make changing with geometry and shapes.
Good video but I wanted to mention this video has a lot of interlace lines that doesn't look very good. You can see it best when things move like your hands. I don't know what NLE you use but if you use Sony Movie Studio / Vegas you should change your project setting to fix the interlace. I have a quick render setting video made in 2016 for Sony Movie Studio that shows exactly what I'm talking about. Thanks, bye.
+ShysterLawyer No I am certainly not. I have a youtube channel with lots of videos so I don't screw with people. Google "interlaced lines" then you can spot it by pausing the video during any fast movement. I even have a video showing exactly what I'm talking about called "2016 render settings for TH-cam using Sony Movie Studio". Its easy to fix in the render settings and I am just trying to give some friendly advice. In fact Mr Pete posted a video awhile back of some museum but the interlaced lines were so bad it was very distracting but I forgot to mention it until now.
+ShysterLawyer Because I can clearly see the interlace lines during normal playback, not just paused. That's how I noticed it in the first place. I'm interested in video editing so I probably notice that stuff more than others but now that you know about it I bet you will notice it too. But it's an easy fix when rendering the video. Check a box or two and the problem is solved. I just wanted Mr Pete to be aware that his render settings are not optimal.
What gun was that peeking in there at the end? based on the grip shape... and your personality... I'm guessing it's a revolver. As a loyal viewer and firearms enthusiast, I'd be curious to know, and see what you own for firearms.
Awesome video, thanks Mr. Pete! I love all your videos. I wish you were my teacher back when I was in school. I am just fascinated by your videos. You should be on television teaching. It would be very refreshing to see something good on instead of all the garbage.
I have a clamp just like that. I made it in shop class along time ago. Never put any finish on it just oil. I like the blue on it. Looks like i have a another project now.
A kindly Olde Grandpappy! I wish you were my granddad! So knowledgeable. Thank you!
👍👍
Graduated cylinder.... I'd suggest using straight isopropyl for your your final cleaning or even the brake cleaner, which dries with no residue. "Rubbing" alcohol generally has a small castor oil component and by tax law must have a poison to limit human consumption. Neither of which are ideal for you blueing process. What a great little tool Mr. P. Thank you for sharing the build.
+Doug Reed Agreed. But read the BAFAC tax code and you will see rubbing.alcohol is still on the roster. Probably a leftover from prohibition days.
Many years ago, my friends dad told us to use lacquer thinner instead of model glue. He said hold the parts together, and dip a toothpick into the lacquer thinner and just touch it to the joint. It worked, as it spread out through the joint and the plastic welded together.
That is a good tip. I think acetone will do the same thing
Both have their charms, I like them both, thanks Lyle
Years back I cold blued a tube bending machine, I made based on plans I purchased from Rudy Kouhoup. The results were great but I had to cold blue it three times to get a deep finish. This video was truly informative to me. I was completely ignorant of heat coloring of steel. Thank you!
Thank you, I remember Rudy
When we didn't have heat sticks we use a pine stick. You rub the stick until it left a black mark. That ment it was hot enough to put the bearing on or temper a knife. Seemed to work.
Great short story about your childhood
Thanks
Great video! Thanks
In most of the heavy, metal turning channels (like Abom), the chips coming off the work quickly turn from silver through straw-color to blue in a couple seconds. Lots of heat is generated plus the chips are not very thick. It's interesting to see. The blueing on old guns (like Smith & Wesson) is very beautiful. Lots of manual polishing when labor was much cheaper. We're of similar age so I think you'd agree, a lot of things were much better 20-30 years ago. Is that a Smith I see at the end of your video?
👍👍
A little steel wool helps get rid of any surface blocky spots
The torch method looks good and has nothing to dispose of or stain your hands. Thnaks for showing the complete process.
WD 40 works well for an initial oiling since it displaces all. Moisture. a lot of guys I've found out don't realize our favorite all around oil is Water Displaces #40. It does work but not that great depending on what your lubricating I like zoom turbine oil the little extended tip helps a lot another great video
Thank you, that's a good tip
Thank you again Mr. Petersen for passing along your knowledge and craft. You have a way of making your viewers feel that we're right there with you in your basement shop. Love these videos- thank you.
Nothing cleans like STEAM... Mr Pete .
Very nice processes for rust proofing your clamps. Thanks for the video.
+Amateur Redneck Workshop Thank you so much for watching
Great video! I've watched before, but as I'm thinking of bluing a pistol frame, I need all the help I can get. Have you blued aluminum? I think they have another product.
I have attempted to color Aluminum. I always fail
Thanks
👍
What temperature is required for the blue color? Very interesting
Good video MrPete. I have a smaller thermo plate in my shop also comes in quite handy. During the winter I used it to keep my coffee cup hot.
+Bob Guenthner neat
I used to blue blades on high carbon steel pocket knives to protect the blades from rusting in my pocket. I kept an old aluminum stove top coffee pot to boil water for rinsing because the metal would self dry. I told my college chemistry teacher I was having trouble understanding a process, she grabbed me and asked if I was going to be a Chemist. When I said no, she said "Just memorize it!" Genius, yes! We did hardening and tempering by color in HS Machine shop. Yes it is purty. Good looking tool.
Thanks for watching.
I use to do the same thing! All of my Old Timers still wear it....
2:35 It's called a GRADUATED CYLINDER - en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Graduated_cylinder
+askjerry didn't look graduated to me
+MrJgstoner Look closer... the markings are a very light blue, likely laser etched. Barely visible... but they are there.
I was kinda hoping that you would color case them. I haven't been able to find 3 in 1 oil in years.
+Richard Haisley , I've picked it up in Walmart and have seen 3-in-1 old online in a few places.
+Richard Haisley Available at most hardware and motor parts stores and as said at Walmart. B&Q even Tesco sells it.
Does the hot method weaken the or change the tempering of the Metal
ASAP
Interesting. I hadn't seen bluing done before except by heating brass (clickspring's videos). What is the purpose of the bluing other than looks? Ditto for the oiling? Simply to prevent rusting? Thanks.
the blue in both cases is a thin layer of non rust oxide witch prevents rust(the destructive oxide). It also may make the surface harder and more scratch resistant ( I am not entirely sure this is the case for steal it is for aluminum)
I enjoyed your presentation. I am 70 and like to take it slower and easier now, instead of, hurry, hurry, and hurry.
Thinking about the way you were heat treating and I am looking forward to trying that out using my gas oven top burners. I would bet results would be fabulous.
I haven't seen you fabricate the clamps you heat treated, however, that's next. Thanks again for the leasure show.
Thanks for watching. Heat treating is an amazing process.
they say you should use cold water to stop the rusting process. does hot water really work then?
I still have the one I made in high school. The Shop teacher (Mr. Mac) case hardened it in a little kiln, and it really didn't change colour (yes I'm Canadian so I spell color colour) very much, but it still works and is rust free after 45 years.
+Ted Aitchison Thank you so much for watching
I wasn’t a gun smith, just an armorer. However, I have cold blued many guns and parts. A couple of suggestions, first, degrease the piece a little more throughly, a little more scrubbing with the alcohol, maybe 2-3 Times. Then, when you apply the blue, if the piece has a brushed look, applying the bluing with a clean scrubby pad works wonders. Then, a warm bath to wash off bluing, followed by re-applying the bluing gives a darker, deeper richer. Color. The final wash off of the bluing salts, at least twice, is critical to avoid rusting, and of coarse the application of oil, (starret of course!).
Thank you for the information
I like the base that you added to the 3 and 1 oil can to prevent tiping. I will be adding one to my locktite bottle asap. Thank you for your Infinite wisdom.
Thoroughly enjoy his videos. Haven't see all 800, but I've seen quite a few. You were a great shop teacher. I know this just from your video's.
Zillah also had a son..who forged all kinds of tools out of bronze and iron ! Love it.
I have watched this video after it has some age on it. Great information. I have also seen another video on a channel called thecogwheel , in it he does a process he calls 1hour red rust bluing. Well worth the watch, he gets great results. Thank you sir for all you have shown me through your videos!
I will check that out thanks
Cool video the birch wood Casey makes a awesome oil called sheath
🤙
I've touched up a lot of guns with this stuff, and I've blued a lot of my reloading dies with it. What works best for me is polishing anything you'll blue to a mirror finish, that's the most critical part of an old school looking bluing job. Then clean it with brake cleaner.
After that, use a hair drier on it and get it pretty warm, not excessively but warm enough it's uncomfortable to hold. Then lather the stuff on heavily. A lot of times I'll actually start coating the part in oil as I'm rubbing the bluing on. On some metals it seems like the oil gets the bluing chemical to penetrate better, but you need to really saturate everything heavily.
Afterwards, clean it with brake cleaner again, rub it down with steel wool, and repeat the process as many times as necessary to get it to look nice. I like using a wax based spray on chemical to protect blued finishes, as it totally seals the metal and will make it safe to get modestly wet. I bet car war would work well too. In my state just oil isn't enough to protect bluing from instantly rusting.
Thanks for watching.
Cool dude, great technique, lol humor, thanks MMM
😀
I use the torch method and then quench in dirty motor oil. it seems to give a darker finish that seems to be more durable and last longer.
Enjoyed this series.
watchmakers use a low white gas flicker flame and saw dust as a quencher, to color watch and pocket watch hands.
Thanks
Well I hope my question is not a repeated one to many times, but any one knows what type of acid is in the chemical used to do this process?
+Migueldeservantes
Miguel, see the MSDS's in my message from today.
I don't know where you can find those wire swabs but of course you could make up a couple dozen of them in a short evening.
Thank you mr pete. I've not found a TH-cam video that describes the process so eloquently and so plainly at the same time. Straight talk is the only way. Thanks again for all your videos.
+SootySweep22 Thank you so much for watching
Another TH-camr named Clickspring uses heat to blue small clock parts. He uses flame to heat a brass tray filled with brass shavings and the part to be blued. The shavings distribute the heat, and he gets a beautiful product. I can't seem to post the link here, but if you search for Clickspring you will find him. The video is titled "Home Machine Shop Tool Making - Making a Versatile Bluing Tray."
I wonder if this would also work with hot sand surrounding the part. Could the part be inspected periodically to see how far along it is?
Thanks again, Mr. Pete. This is a great video.
Mr Pete, I believe they are called Graduated Cylinders. I had a grade school English teacher who was some what of a witch, but my senior year English teach was super cute.
Did d you say 2 ball cane!! Not often one hears that.
Testors is a fine Rockford company
Try quenching in motor oil. Darkens up pretty nice.
Good idea
I noticed the grip end of a pistol in your video. What was that all about?
+Herb Blair Random guess, he had everything he needed out for blueing and perhaps did a little touch up on his firearm.
Check out Clickspring's Channel for heat bluing. He does a wonderful job on clock parts.
The cold-bluing compound available from Brownell's works very well, too. I think it's brand-named "OxPho".
+MrShobar Thanks
I belive you can take almond or walnut wood or almond shells or walnut shells ground to fine powder soaked in distilled water and place your metal in that leave over night or cook it to create a Form of bluing.... Even coffee grinds can be used
Very nice Mr. Pete!!
+Terry Baker Thank you so much for watching
just borrowing the comments to ask a question. ;) I always wondered if the black tip on a screw driver is needed or not. for example, if I chip one of my screw drivers and the re-grind it and often times you need to grind down to thickness too. should I blue or oxidize it somehow? thanks!
this old Tony sent me here. so thank him. i watch his vid on milling and metal work. nice vid thx
Thanks to you and to Tony
Thatlazymachinist also has a very in depth look at the heat treatment and coloring of steel.
The flamed one has a nice look
I use the Birchwood casey super blue. Always keep a bottle in my shop. From what I've heard, its a more potent solution so it'll work on a wider range of steel alloys. I haven't used the perma blue, but it looks like it did good also.
Thanks
U knw the formula for this solution
Have you looked at the bluing videos on the clickspring channel
is the heat coloring a type of oxidation? If you did this in an argon environment would the blue take?
Quite the Webley fan!
We used to do metalwork here in England in the 70s, made lots of small tool projects, what we used to do was to heat to about the same temp as you did and quench in old engine oil. This makes an even black finish. Very easy, even us kids could do it !!! I work in engineering still after 40 years, still using school metalwork skills.
+Johnny Noggert Thanks for watching. I'll try that
Thanks! I like the heat method better too.
Glueing the 3 in 1 to a bigger piece of metal. So Smart.
What happen to the gloves
Is there any reason why you didn't case harden them by quenching in oil ? That 'blues' steel nicely and being harder they are more durable.
"She doesn't know about it." She will if she watches the video. I really like your sense of humor and your anecdotes.
I have two of those thermoplates in my lab. The newer models have temperature indicators that more realistically correlate to the temperature of the plate, but often you want such a precise temperature you would never rely on a built in indicator anyway, just a properly calibrated thermometer.
we use them for all sorts of things, but primarily for heating volumes of liquids in pyrex containers for making buffers and other chemical solutions
may I suggest seating the piece to be blued in a bed of sand or my favorite: brass chips? It seems to conduct the heat better to irregular objects that way
Mr Pete, a couple of points,
Go to the dollar store and get a spray bottle and some bubble juice. Use that to find the leaks in your air system. This is why I never throw out a good spray cleaner bottle. Then you can fix them and save wear on your compressor and have air available all the time. I wired a clock into the motor circuit of mine to verify that it will sit all week without coming on until I use some air again.
If you set your parts in a tray or pan of brass shavings, copper filings, or even sand when heating, the color will be much more uniform. See videos at Clickspring.
Any oil or fingerprints will leave marks or splotches that may or may not be attractive. These are caused by the different rates of oxidation. Holding your clean thumb on a part for a minute to deposit oils and acids will mark your tool with your thumbprint for ID. You can try different things for effect, striping with a brush or polka dots with a swab for example. Blowing through a straw on different areas will vary the temperature and oxygen level changing the color. With practice you can simulate color case hardening.
If you quench in oil the suface pores will fill and further "rust proof" the parts. Better yet, after quenching bake the oil in at about 400°F for half an hour to seal the surface. Do this when your wife is not home and clean the oven and air out the kitchen after! A good reason to have an old stove in the shop.
I have always felt that if you make a tool look nice like a tool it will get treated like a nice tool.
Despite the efforts of a great many researchers the world over, there isn't, and there never will be a cure for stupid. Maybe only natural selection or zombies.
This is a nice set of videos and I thank you for them and all of your others, too.
Mike (o\!/o)
+Moholo 88 Thank you so much for watching
You should make yourself a bluing tray for the temper colour heating the brass shaving help keep everything uniform. It also cheaper than an oven.
I like the torch finish myself. Looks good
Enjoyed this a lot.
Thanks for watching.
For a cold blue, 44/40 also covers good. Both will "keep" longer if they are varnished. A quick niter blue can be made with 2/3 lye and 1/3 sodium nitrate (or saltpeter), and also works good for tempering by color. When it melts, you hang the parts in, and pull them out when they get the shade you want. The high temperature will alter the temper on heat treated stuff, though. For a real durable blue, "Mark Lee #1 rust blue" works well, and only takes boiling water to set the stain.
For anybody who wants to try heat tempering to generate colours, "Clickspring" has videos of a clock project where he is using blued steel fittings as a contrast to brass, and has instructions for making bluing trays using brass shavings to spread the heat evenly.
I thought your casting furnace was originally a heat treatment oven?
Nice glass butter churn you are washing the parts in.
I like to use Precision brand tool black.. Quart bottle is kinda pricey but lasts a long time.. Put it in a spray bottle.. Clean with mineral spirits first then super clean before applying the tool black.. LOL nice Webley.. Love mine!
I believe if the parts are covered with a bit of insulation or a fire blanket the heating will be more uniform and will happen in a shorter time.
For an alternative to ear swabs, check out RamRodz. Their .22 swabs are a good size for general use, the swabs are low lint, and the sticks are bamboo so they don't snap. Great for cleaning pistol barrels too! Brownells sells them for a low price.
Also, I recently got a California Air Tools compressor, it is amazingly quiet and they have great customer service. It makes less noise than a conversation! So if you need to replace your compressor, I'd recommend taking a look at their offerings.
Nice video as always thanks Mr Pete I prefer cold blueing more than hot method I believe with heating up some small peices can make changing with geometry and shapes.
For the screws i believe a pan with sand would work. The sand will distribute the heat evenly.
Good video but I wanted to mention this video has a lot of interlace lines that doesn't look very good. You can see it best when things move like your hands. I don't know what NLE you use but if you use Sony Movie Studio / Vegas you should change your project setting to fix the interlace. I have a quick render setting video made in 2016 for Sony Movie Studio that shows exactly what I'm talking about. Thanks, bye.
+lowlypawn I think you guys are just screwing with him. I've never noticed this problem and I have a pretty good eye for flaws.
+ShysterLawyer No I am certainly not. I have a youtube channel with lots of videos so I don't screw with people. Google "interlaced lines" then you can spot it by pausing the video during any fast movement. I even have a video showing exactly what I'm talking about called "2016 render settings for TH-cam using Sony Movie Studio". Its easy to fix in the render settings and I am just trying to give some friendly advice. In fact Mr Pete posted a video awhile back of some museum but the interlaced lines were so bad it was very distracting but I forgot to mention it until now.
Okay, so you're legit then. But really, who cares what a video looks like when pausing action shots??
+ShysterLawyer Because I can clearly see the interlace lines during normal playback, not just paused. That's how I noticed it in the first place. I'm interested in video editing so I probably notice that stuff more than others but now that you know about it I bet you will notice it too. But it's an easy fix when rendering the video. Check a box or two and the problem is solved. I just wanted Mr Pete to be aware that his render settings are not optimal.
What gun was that peeking in there at the end? based on the grip shape... and your personality... I'm guessing it's a revolver. As a loyal viewer and firearms enthusiast, I'd be curious to know, and see what you own for firearms.
So, would this prevent rust altogether or for a certain amount of time?
I do small screws in a piece of tupper wear and agitate it. The more you agitate the faster/better it takes the bluing.
yeah whats up with the gun?
My old skin can take the chemicals, lol you're a funny guy
Awesome video, thanks Mr. Pete! I love all your videos. I wish you were my teacher back when I was in school. I am just fascinated by your videos. You should be on television teaching. It would be very refreshing to see something good on instead of all the garbage.
Engine oil also hardens the steel. if using the hot plate it is better to use ceramic blanket.
That hot plate is neat but man is it old. I am about to order an electric furnace to replace my hotplate since I need to get enough heat to melt gold.
Great video i did not know bluing was so easy to do. i would like to try this one day thanks for sharing Mr pete
have a look at clicksprings vids he uses a torch but holds them in a tray covered in brass chips to ensure uniform heat transfer
another success
You didn’t use your Bernard pliers in this video!
I have a clamp just like that. I made it in shop class along time ago. Never put any finish on it
just oil. I like the blue on it. Looks like i have a another project now.
Does the solution deplet in potency when the dipping method is used?
JIM
I had one of those hot plates for changing pistons on cummings diesel.
Great series. Really enjoyed watching. They sure turned out "purdy"! P.S. Bang, Bang!!
+MrGoosePit Thanks
+mrpete222 gloves arent for protecting your skin. they're for not having to wash hands when you finish your work
Tandy's Leather Works is owned by Radio Shack. Or it may be the other way around. Radio Shack went belly-up. So I wonder if Tandy is still around.
As far as I know, the leather works is still in business
I think he is making one to replace his brother that got stolen at the show in Chicago ,
+Lewis Mcclain Someone stole his brother?