I've said it before, and I'll say it again: your beginning reloading series (sadly, no longer available), was by far the best introduction to reloading I have ever seen. I watched tons of videos while getting ready to start reloading, and none could hold a candle to yours. Thanks for helping me get started in an incredibly interesting hobby.
Thank you for such an excellent and detailed video! Have been reloading for about 40 years and started on my father’s sporterized 03A3 hunting rifle. Got an M1 inbound from CMP. Every once in awhile there is something that truly is a quantum leap in reloading. First, I adopted metal media for my two tumblers. Wow. Even the worst looking used range brass looks like virgin after about two hours. Second, I’m ultra paranoid about contamination in my reloading. After resizing and de-primering, the brass all goes into the tumbler for thorough cleaning. I then know that the case lubricant is all cleaned off. No chance of contaminating a primer. I use a Lee hand prime ring tool, and my machine of choice is an RCBS single stage. I started with their Rock Chucker but moved up to a newer one that comes with a long and a short rod-I use the longer for better leverage. I also use the fancy RCBS power measuring device with integral trickler. Very precise. Lastly, I use the LabRadar Doppler radar to determine muzzle velocity and speed at various points along the 100 yards. Pure magic! Again, a very good primer for someone brand new to reloaded, and a great reminder for me after 40 years of this hobby! Looking forward to the M1. I’ll be sticking to my 4064 which I started with for my 03A3, and with 150 grain bullets. Thank you, for such competence!
Boy, was this video up my alley. Good job. I started reloading and shooting National Match in the early 70's. I shot Garands and M1a's until the AR's showed up, now I mostly shoot in the John C. Garand matches. The only powder I use is IMR 4064 or H4895, #1. I load mixed commercial brass except for Federal, it's the heaviest brass out there even exceeding military by a large margin. I use Winchester or CCI primers and my bullet of choice is the Hornady 150gr FMJ even out to 600 yards. I duplicate the M2 ball load with 46gr of the H4895 and get 2805fps with the 150's. The ARMY crono's were set 71 feet from the muzzle that's why the MV is slightly higher than their spec. This is also the load recipe the CMP has loaded by Creedmoor Sports for their ammo. My latest Garand, bought from the CMP, is a 1942 SA Philippine return and it now wears a Danish VAR barrel (+1 throat & muzzle) and has a very tight, new CMP stock. The only changes from as issued is a Orion 7 stainless steel main spring and a ported Garand Gear gas plug. www.garandgear.com/the-m1-garand-and-commercial-ammunition/ With that load my Garand will shoot 1 moa off the bench with the H4895 and 150 Hornady's. I know, I hit the jackpot with that rifle. I spend most of my reloading time on brass prep, I use the alcohol/lanolin homemade lube and I bump the shoulder .002" to .003". I too could go on for an hour but you're on the right track. IMHO you should try some 150's and step up your charges a little, that's where I found the largest accuracy node and it work's in all 4 of my Garands.
I love this kind of video, even though I have been reloading for decades and don't load for a Garand. You do a great job of simplifying things and informing without pontificating from on high.
I’m currently preparing to purchase an M1 from CMP and was considering the possibility of reloading the ammo myself given the scarcity and expense of M1-safe 30-06 ammo. This is an excellent video tutorial. I’m a scientist by training, and I’m impressed by your methodical and highly scientific approach to reloading and testing your reloads. This will be a go-to video for me moving forward, and I thank you for sharing your expertise on TH-cam for the benefit of the broader M1 community!
Johnny -- All your work is top flight Johnny! However, your work on this 30/06 video shows your real teaching ability. Your casual but informative way combined with the real life re-loading situations is just great! Keep on filming!
Your Garand M1 video is what the dr ordered. I just received my CMP Expert and am in the process of working up my first loads. Thanks for the great instruction.
I've been using 168gr hornady bullets with varget. Years ago I bought a bunch of lake city brass. Still have some virgin , but never a issue with varget. Just use plain old f.l. die set from redding. Love smacking steel with my Garand.
Johnny one tip I have used for forty years is to spray Lock-eze on to a rag and wipe the rag on the plastic funnels and it puts a coating of graphite on the funnel and kills static electricity that causes powder grains to stick to the funnel. Another thing to use is powdered graphite on a rag and wipe the funnel so you get a grey sheen on it. I Think pencil sharpener shavings would do it to.
26:26 a piece of advice for new reloaders, stick with one charge weight and bullet combination at a time. Charge five cases with the same weight of powder, seat your bullets, move the loaded rounds to a container with a label showing exactly what they are, then move on to the next charge. I've wasted a ladder test or two in my day by getting things mixed up. Until you are confident in your procedures, process, and workflow, don't try to do too many things at once.
PERFECT ADVICE FROM JOE THE FOX , no use wasting a day and a trip to the range, keep it separated and dont let the counter boys dump your ammo for inspection into a pile while you turn your back for a split second
I’ve got a Garand, mostly load with H4895, Varget I’ve not tried. It shoots very well, despite a little pitting in the barrel, barely noticeable. I haven’t put the rounds over the chrono yet, but will soon. Thanks for sharing this with us, take care and stay safe! God bless buddy! 🙏🎚🇲🇾🇲🇾🇲🇾
Nice video Jhonny! Great Channel! Looking forward for more M1 Garand reloads vídeos! I have a M1 Garand here in Brazil and I reload the 30-06 with CBC/Magtech reloading components. Love reload the 30-06!
I love your whole channel. But thank you especially for posting this one. I have many friends on the fence about getting into reloading but this was a great first time loader primer that I could point them to. I show them my reloading procedures and all the stuff I do and I learned alot of it from you and your series of videos. Hopefully with this video I can get a few of my buddies into this fun world. I keep pointing out those RCBS kit deals and they really just want to get into 223 and a nice single stage kit would be a great start!
A tip for the garand, i would highly reccomend the schuster adjustable gas plug for the garand, easy to install and has an adjustable allen screw with locking nut. Adjustments will slightly change the internal volume of the gas tube thus allowing you to tune how aggressively the bolt will cycle allowing you to use any 30-06 ammunition. You just start with it in the starting position as stated in the manual and your rifle wont cycle and then you make adjustments until it cycles reliably. Pretty handy for use with modern 30-06 loads
Thanks JRB. I have learned so much and implemented so much from your Channel. I know it’s rough out there for those of us who desire info and enjoy this space but thanks man. Fixing to test a general purpose horn fmj 55 grain load and a smk 69 load in my go to 556 rifle. Powders are aa2230 cfe223 h335 and varget. Hopefully I can find something. Just got a decent chrono. Not looking to poo primers but am looking for some decent speed and accuracy. We shall see soon. Thanks again.
I am continually impressed by the quality of your content. The vast majority of my shooting/reloading is done vicariously through you while I'm feeding my kid a bottle in the middle of the night. You're an excellent teacher and good company. Thank you for bringing us along. I look forward to all of your future experiments and projects.
Thank you for this video. You showed a lot of details that others don’t cover. Like actually applying the sizing line, and that sometimes it not a smooth stroke for sizing the brass.
48 minute video... I am 2.5 hours into this video and haven't finished cuz I am so enthralled I have to google every other word you use so I can understand it. LOVE IT.
Ever thought about making an induction annealer? North East Texas Tactical has a video on how to make one around $200 with 0.01 second accuracy. Super quick and easy (I was a USMC grunt, if I can do it anyone can). Works great! No open flame or propane to buy, No molten salt. The build would make a good video for you to make, and he has a tips and tricks video that I found useful. keep up the good work Sir, Love your videos!
Thanks for the videos, I am newly retired and have started reloading and your videos have been extremely helpful. Doing only handgun rounds now on a Lee single stage press, but my results have been fantastic. You have been playing during my time at the bench. Thanks again.
I wish I had discovered your channel before going headlong into my reloading set up with my credit card. I would have skipped the vibratory tumbler ASAP and had a better scale than the one that came with my Rebel Master kit!
I put my lanolin mixture in a spray bottle and spray the cases once or twice in a rubbermaid tub. Shake them up and they're ready to go. Never had any problems. Best case lube I've ever used.
Well I’ll be darned a old school long form video from JRB… today has been a good day my 1 year old was over all not a pain in the neck. Had a good dinner and to top it all off a good long video from JRB…. Cool!!!!!!
I made up a dummy round out of a split case with just a bullet, no primer and painted blue. I use that to remove my case mouth dents. Just insert and turn while they are in the loading tray. Perfect case mouths for sizing and quick to do.
I’ve been waiting for this video. I’ve reloaded some (M1 specific) for mine just using manuals and am set up for ladder testing but I haven’t got the chronograph and paper targets out yet.
Great video! The IMR 4895 with the 175 SMK combination is a classic M72 match load clone recipe. I was thinking about trying that exact combination for some reloads for my neighbor's 1903a3. I just need to find some IMR 4895 in stock.
I just ran a test with 46gr IMR 4895, 175gr SMK, R-P Brass, and CCI LRP. I landed right at 2570 FPS. I always like it when my data lines up with what others are doing. I didn’t test it for accuracy though… hopefully i can squeeze into something under 6 inches 😂. All jokes aside, I appreciate all your hard work! Thank you!
I think my favorite recipe for the M-1 is a 150 grain FMJ over 50.0 grains of IMR 4064... absolutely love that load. Shoots around 2780FPS or so and shoots light out in my rifle.
Years ago l settled on 49.0 grs of IMR 4064 for around 2740fps. This was the older longer grained powder. I've noticed the newer stuff is a shorter grain and haven't tested to see if there's any difference.
@@bumblebeebob yeah it's funny how a powder that is the same brand and name can still change from one lot to the next. Either way with the new powder I'm sure your load recipe will still work great!
To lube cases with spray lube, lay them out in a clean baking sheet (I’m sure the wife has some old ones she’d donate!) give one or two quick sprays while passing over the brass. Let it sit a few minutes. Then dump the brass onto another cookie sheet lined with paper towels and shake and roll the brass around. They will all be perfectly lubed and ready to size!
Good choice using the Mighty Armory universal decapping die. I have one, and it's particularly nice because it has a super strong pin and it's spring-loaded to ensure that the primer fully clears the case each time.
This video would have been a fun one to to watch you live stream the editing on twitch. The start to finish style makes me nostalgic for the Rebel Press editing marathons.
As usual, a great video, Johnny! One tip though for using Imperial wax on the inside of the necks: instead of using a Q-tip, just wipe your imperial covered index finger across the case mouth, and it will squeegee a little lube inside the case neck. Given, it won’t be all the way around the circumference, but the expander ball pushing in and out will spread it out nicely. Please keep up the great work Buddy. I love all your videos!!
I have had my grandpa's Springfield 30-06 for some time and he use to reload. I made some rounds up that are 150gr but haven't took it to a range. The problem is a lot of the good long ranges shut down around me as it's mostly all indoor ranges. Need to find a range with a good long range area.
Great video Johnny, I am in the market for a Garand and will always reload for this rifle once I find a half decent one. No chance of a CMP rifle up here north of the border. Thanks again.
On the subject of case lube: GunBlue's way of applying Lee lube works great. You put a little lube inside a clear plastic container (like gladware) and shake the brass around until the lube is spread evenly along the entire inside of the container. Then, you use a q-tip like JRB just showed. Let it dry for an hour and you won't get any dents. JRB, your presence on this platform is probably saving some from injury. You've definitely saved me a lot of money. Thanks again.
I hate to admit this... But, I add a bit of liquid car wax to my walnut shell media which does a really nice job of slicking up the brass as well as making them shine ;-) Killing 2 birds with one stone so to speak... My 2 cents
@@n7565j did you notice my channel name? I wouldn't call someone names, unless they persist in being unsafe. JRB called himself that lots on the video with the primers blowing out, because he failed to check his brass between shots. He'd be right if he hadn't had the guts to also show his error and keep others mindful.
I’ve been using the Lee threaded cutter and lock stud. Works with the same case length gauges and shell holders but you can screw the cutter into a motorized case prep center. So I can run my brass through the trimmer, primer pocket scraper, chamfer, and de-burr all in a matter of seconds. Works nice if you are doing larger lots of brass.
I bought a 1903 spr 30-06. I had'nt loaded 3006 in years. I went to blc 2 150's WLR. light loads, could go a little more. but a joy to shoot a old war horse like that!
Johnny, you're not having feeding issues. Smacking the back of the handle is part of the normal manual of arms for the M1 when inserting a new clip. (Yes those are actually clips, the magazine is internal on the Garand) Search for the video "M1 Garand - Principles of Operation (1943) United States Rifle, Caliber .30, M1" here on youtube and you'll see them routinely smacking it during loading. It helps prevent the dreaded "Garand thumb" (They do it twice between the 1:30 and 2:00 min mark) Watching you load those clips, I predict you're going to get to experience the pain of a Garand thumb in the not to distant future Edited to add: they change how they taught to insert the clip after this training film was made, to prevent Garand thumb. Once you get one, you'll understand why. At a Garand training match, I had a President's 100 shooter/instructor put it best, "Garand shooters fall into 2 categories, those that have had a Garand thumb, and those that are going to get one" FYI, they HURT!!
The front hand guard is a huge source of variation with the point of impact. Many Garand shooters lock the front hand guard down with a process called “unitizing”. They ream the front hand guard ring, screw and glue the hand guard to the rear barrel band. It free floats the barrel in front of the hand guard. Your use of the front hand guard to rest the rifle is probably going to cause huge variations in barrel vibration. When I unitized my Garand hand guard my 8 shot groups shrank from 3.5-4” down to about 2.5” . It is a lot more consistent.
Best part; after spending $125 $300 hopefully you at the point you don’t care. cause you about to spend more. I just picked up some some 168s and this video is perfect. Thanks.
For the sake of simplicity and not missing anything, when I run the single stage press I go straight from powder charge to seating the bullet in that case, stops any confusion on if I missed or double charged a case, and the time it takes to seat it lets my Frankford rig throw the next charge so I'm not waiting on it
Love loading for my Garand. I can’t wait to see the results you got. You may want to try 125 grain Speer TNTs too with 3031. It’s a bit of a wildcat load but they are super nice to shoot.
For what it's worth, Lyman sells a decapping rod that has a carbide expander ball that can be used to replace the decapping pin for certain dies, including RCBS. It allows me to totally avoid contaminating the inside cases with a bit of lube inside the case mouth.
It just goes to show how much shooting/hunting/defense equipment has improved over the last 100 or so years. I’d be willing to bet both of those bullet/powder combos could be made to shoot better in a more recently manufactured rifle.
Great video! I've had similar groups, may I suggest checking you front sight housing for lose fit and try moving the rest off the front piece and placing the rifles stock behind the the "Stacking Swivel."
Johnny... seems like you are getting a lot of advice and support on IMR-4895, as you know, that is my go-to powder for my M-1 National Match rifle, I have won many medals with that powder over the years, (IMO) Varget is a little slow, as is the case with IMR-4064, they work, however, the chamber pressures are higher than with IMR-4895 and that will put undue stress on your bolt lugs, So, watch for shiny worn spots on your bolt lugs and receiver recesses if you continue with Varget, another thing as well, I use small base dies, I have witnessed a few super nice Grands worth thousands of dollars blow up because of a few thousands of (Out of Battery lock up on the bolt lugs) remember, the only place that pressure is going to go is back at the shooter. I feel it is better to have a little looseness in the chamber for positive feeding and lock-up of the bolt lugs. So, That's great that you are shooting the old Girl, she will teach you a few things in Marksmanship, I feel that handling the recoil of the .30 caliber rifles in a match builds outstanding skills, more so that a scoped AR-15, (Not the same deal). Peace out. -Dave
I know you are on a big shotgun kick right now but I would love to see one or two more parts to this video. I would like an economical load with a 150g FMJ and a load using some other powders we can actually buy. I couldn't buy 4895 or Varget right now if my life depended on it.
I just checked a couple days ago to make sure I didn't get unsubscribed or something because I hadn't seen a video in a while and this video you sound a little under the weather so I hope all is well man. Glad to get a full length video like the old days on this channel... LOL
One minor critique, but you left out the important step of chamfering/deburring your brass after trimming it. Also, that Lee trimmer is so laborious to use that you'll quickly buy one of the better bench mounted (I highly recommend the Redding) trimmer instead.
It hurts to watch you rest the rifle on the front hand guard. The bolt hesitation on closing is normal. Just shove the clip down until you hear the click and take your fingers and thumb out of the magazine well. Then a light tap of the rear side of the charging handle will close the bolt. Your clips are a little rough on the edges, and that will cause the bolt hesitation until the clips smooth out. HXP brass is inconsistent volume wise, but will last a long time. Segregate the brass by year date.
I originally set up my rest to sit on the stock but decided to just put it out on the handguard at the last minute. You're not the only one complaining. I won't do it again.
Would it not make sense to do your load development with the rifle rested on the handguard if that is how you intend to fire it? I'm not going to pretend to load for Garand but I personally beleive this comes in to play with many rifles. milspec handguards for AR come to mind which I have observed POI changes as well when fired rested on different locations(base of handguard/slipring, mag, and front of handguard. I can only assume it can have an effect on harmonics but I Am interested to hear your findings with Garands and load development/groups, I really don't know enough about them besides commonality they share with all firearms.
@@savagereloader6699 The front hand guard is just there to protect the shooters hand from the moving parts and any heat. It is nothing like a standard handguard on an AR. Resting the rifle on the front handguard will produce variable forces on the barrel and gas cylinder and cause huge POI shifts. You will see the front sling swivel is behind the front handguard, and is meant as the most forward point of support pressure for shooting. The front handguard can be adjusted to provide some pressure between the sling swivel area and the end cap of the front handguard, and this will provide dampening of the barrel vibrations. Get this pressure correct and an M1 will go from a 4 MOA rifle to a 1MOA or less rifle. Like most wooden stocked military rifles these barrels are not free floated, but dampened by the stock if properly fitted.
I was also taught to not hold the weight of the rifle by the upper hand guard. But we were competitors trying to shoot MOA with 3 MOA ammo. Johnny, I still see 300fps less on the video than you are saying in the audio.
I made the same choice as you with the CMP Garand. I have been using IMR 4895 and 147 or 150 grain bullets. It seems to like that combination and the velocity seems spot on.
I reload .30-06, 7.62x54R, and .223. I use the Lee Hand press, Lee Pacesetter (3 die) sets, and Lee case lube for all 3 calibers. I originally purchased Lee Loaders in all three calibers but ran into neck tension problems with 7.62x54R using PPU brass and .311 bullets (maybe .312 would have been fine but were unavailable for a while). The hand press requires a little upper body strength to use with the larger calibers but does the job. I think pretty much any bench mounted press would be fine for .30-06 as long as it has clearance.
My dad has been working on cast loads for his M1 Garand and got a nice load worked up that shoots really good at 100 yds. He casts and powder coats so is able to shoot his Garand for way less. He also worked up cast/coated loads for his AR10 and AR15. I cast and powder coat but haven't tried those 3 rifles yet. I think the only semi auto rifle caliber I've done with cast/coated is the 7.62x39 for my AK's and SKS rifles. Oh, and the M1 Carbine.
I'm all about 46.5 grains of IMR 4895 with Hornady 150 grain fmjbt. Zeroed at 100 yards, this load seems to perfectly match my sight graduations out to 600 yards. I love setting it to the appropriate setting and getting first round hits way out there!
Same load and bullet I shoot out of my Garand. I love those Hornady FMJ 150's and if I do my part will shoot 1moa and yes it does follow the battle receiver sights.
I inherited my mother's cousins Garand. It was not uncommon for soldiers to be able to keep their rifles that they used in battle and it is reported that this rifle saw active battle time in Europe. It is probably my favorite rifle. Great video Johnny. Looks like you have a very Garand
With my first Garand, 37 years ago, I didn’t know that you were supposed to use Garand specific loads. OOPS!! Now with years of reloading experience my current Garand is running much better. IMR4895 is the only powder I use for the Garand. At least I didn’t blow my face off! Try resting your rifle on the stock and not the front hand guard, is is designed to fit loose and may be affecting accuracy.
In my M1A or Garand , its IMR 4895 or NOTHING , 60 years of reloading proves this in my rifles , and my RCBS partner is this going strong after 46 plus years , with all calibers 30-06 down to 222 Remington.
4895 is the traditional favorite for the Garand, and that's what I used to make up 100 rounds for my father-in-law's Garand. There are others that are acceptable in that platform, namely 4064 and a few others. You definitely don't want to use the slower powders that allow you to get a bit more velocity out of bolt actions, namely the likes of W760, H414, and any of the 4350 or 4831 powders.
Just did 100 for the Garand tonight. I spray a few shots of the lanolin lube on folded t-shirt material that the case body fits perfectly. The neck/shoulder hang off the edge. A single roll is all it takes.
44.7 grains H4895, 44.6 grains n140, Varget. 168 grain hpbt. Keep it under 2600 fps and you won't bend or stress your op rod because they are expensive. Medium burn rate powders. I use the Hornady manual and have excellent results. The military brass is thicker, so you might want to reduce your charge by a grain.
Redding sells a spherical carbide size button that replaces the stock one you showed. I find they work well and you don't have to lubricate the case neck
you may find this interesting or hell not I don't know but something I did when I got my M1 Garand from the CMP last December is put a scope mount on it from Galati International. "M1 Garand Scope Mount Weaver Style" it's offset like the type D sniper style M1 grand. This allows you to load the clips, provided your windage knob isn't in the damn way. I realize some people probably find this Blasphemous but it eliminates (or at least severely reduces) one of the variables when doing load development. You can always take it off and put the iron sight back on later. Plus it even gives you a crude peep sight to use. it did allow me to get my groups down to about an inch to inch and a half from two to three inches. 30 06 is pretty versatile and it's fun playing around with different loads. and if you really want to get off into the weeds you can get a gas block that will reduce the port pressure for the Op rod. Nothing real serious but fun to play around with and I wouldn't mind taking this old girl hunting once or twice
This is an excellent video even for a beginner like me. Could you please provide info on the target and velocity products you used at the range? Thank you.
His target looks like a 100 yard NRA high power target which would be correct from my understanding for this application. His chronograph looks like a doplar radar which is a good piece of kit to have. He has a shot mark system at his target using microphones to gauge muzzle velocity and bullet impact point that sends that data to his computer.
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I’m excited for an old fashioned 45+ minute reloading video
I've said it before, and I'll say it again: your beginning reloading series (sadly, no longer available), was by far the best introduction to reloading I have ever seen. I watched tons of videos while getting ready to start reloading, and none could hold a candle to yours. Thanks for helping me get started in an incredibly interesting hobby.
Thank you for such an excellent and detailed video! Have been reloading for about 40 years and started on my father’s sporterized 03A3 hunting rifle. Got an M1 inbound from CMP. Every once in awhile there is something that truly is a quantum leap in reloading. First, I adopted metal media for my two tumblers. Wow. Even the worst looking used range brass looks like virgin after about two hours. Second, I’m ultra paranoid about contamination in my reloading. After resizing and de-primering, the brass all goes into the tumbler for thorough cleaning. I then know that the case lubricant is all cleaned off. No chance of contaminating a primer. I use a Lee hand prime ring tool, and my machine of choice is an RCBS single stage. I started with their Rock Chucker but moved up to a newer one that comes with a long and a short rod-I use the longer for better leverage. I also use the fancy RCBS power measuring device with integral trickler. Very precise. Lastly, I use the LabRadar Doppler radar to determine muzzle velocity and speed at various points along the 100 yards. Pure magic! Again, a very good primer for someone brand new to reloaded, and a great reminder for me after 40 years of this hobby! Looking forward to the M1. I’ll be sticking to my 4064 which I started with for my 03A3, and with 150 grain bullets. Thank you, for such competence!
Boy, was this video up my alley. Good job. I started reloading and shooting National Match in the early 70's. I shot Garands and M1a's until the AR's showed up, now I mostly shoot in the John C. Garand matches. The only powder I use is IMR 4064 or H4895, #1. I load mixed commercial brass except for Federal, it's the heaviest brass out there even exceeding military by a large margin. I use Winchester or CCI primers and my bullet of choice is the Hornady 150gr FMJ even out to 600 yards. I duplicate the M2 ball load with 46gr of the H4895 and get 2805fps with the 150's. The ARMY crono's were set 71 feet from the muzzle that's why the MV is slightly higher than their spec. This is also the load recipe the CMP has loaded by Creedmoor Sports for their ammo. My latest Garand, bought from the CMP, is a 1942 SA Philippine return and it now wears a Danish VAR barrel (+1 throat & muzzle) and has a very tight, new CMP stock. The only changes from as issued is a Orion 7 stainless steel main spring and a ported Garand Gear gas plug. www.garandgear.com/the-m1-garand-and-commercial-ammunition/
With that load my Garand will shoot 1 moa off the bench with the H4895 and 150 Hornady's. I know, I hit the jackpot with that rifle. I spend most of my reloading time on brass prep, I use the alcohol/lanolin homemade lube and I bump the shoulder .002" to .003". I too could go on for an hour but you're on the right track. IMHO you should try some 150's and step up your charges a little, that's where I found the largest accuracy node and it work's in all 4 of my Garands.
Enjoyed. Lately, been rewatching some of the 300 blk videos, and ad I get started with my own 300 blk work, it's been a lot of help.
This is great! I remember watching the original Garand videos years ago!
I love this kind of video, even though I have been reloading for decades and don't load for a Garand. You do a great job of simplifying things and informing without pontificating from on high.
I’m currently preparing to purchase an M1 from CMP and was considering the possibility of reloading the ammo myself given the scarcity and expense of M1-safe 30-06 ammo. This is an excellent video tutorial. I’m a scientist by training, and I’m impressed by your methodical and highly scientific approach to reloading and testing your reloads. This will be a go-to video for me moving forward, and I thank you for sharing your expertise on TH-cam for the benefit of the broader M1 community!
Johnny -- All your work is top flight Johnny! However, your work on this 30/06 video shows your real teaching ability. Your casual but informative way combined with the real life re-loading situations is just great! Keep on filming!
Your Garand M1 video is what the dr ordered. I just received my CMP Expert and am in the process of working up my first loads. Thanks for the great instruction.
I've been using 168gr hornady bullets with varget.
Years ago I bought a bunch of lake city brass.
Still have some virgin , but never a issue with varget. Just use plain old f.l. die set from redding.
Love smacking steel with my Garand.
YES! YES! YES! Thank you! I’m about to load for my Garand so this is perfect timing!!!
Great to see! Just got my Garand in the mail, and am starting to work on a load for it.
What a great feeling!
Johnny one tip I have used for forty years is to spray Lock-eze on to a rag and wipe the rag on the plastic funnels and it puts a coating of graphite on the funnel and kills static electricity that causes powder grains to stick to the funnel. Another thing to use is powdered graphite on a rag and wipe the funnel so you get a grey sheen on it. I Think pencil sharpener shavings would do it to.
26:26 a piece of advice for new reloaders, stick with one charge weight and bullet combination at a time. Charge five cases with the same weight of powder, seat your bullets, move the loaded rounds to a container with a label showing exactly what they are, then move on to the next charge. I've wasted a ladder test or two in my day by getting things mixed up. Until you are confident in your procedures, process, and workflow, don't try to do too many things at once.
PERFECT ADVICE FROM JOE THE FOX , no use wasting a day and a trip to the range, keep it separated and dont let the counter boys dump your ammo for inspection into a pile while you turn your back for a split second
I've started using a sharpie to put my charge weights right on the brass in addition to a label on the container with more detail
I never loaded anything over 150gr heads.
@@tyrellmorris9503 I've been doing the same thing for years. A great way to keep track of things.
@@bumblebeebob I just use roman numerals in sharpie to mark my brass after every charge. Dullest pencil sharpest memory sort of thing
You gotta love it when JRB drops a new video when you're about ready to sit down and load a batch yourself.
I know this is a year old but as a proud M1 owner, I appreciate this video
Great reloading info, handsome Garand, great shooting, but the rooster stole the show. Keep the vids coming.
Loved this one all the way, thank you. Alot. Nice pase with the walkthrough. Loved the comment at 17:44! "Hopfully you don't care anymore"
I've been waiting for this for years! Thaaks JRB!
I’ve got a Garand, mostly load with H4895, Varget I’ve not tried. It shoots very well, despite a little pitting in the barrel, barely noticeable.
I haven’t put the rounds over the chrono yet, but will soon.
Thanks for sharing this with us, take care and stay safe! God bless buddy! 🙏🎚🇲🇾🇲🇾🇲🇾
Nice video Jhonny! Great Channel!
Looking forward for more M1 Garand reloads vídeos!
I have a M1 Garand here in Brazil and I reload the 30-06 with CBC/Magtech reloading components. Love reload the 30-06!
I love your whole channel. But thank you especially for posting this one. I have many friends on the fence about getting into reloading but this was a great first time loader primer that I could point them to. I show them my reloading procedures and all the stuff I do and I learned alot of it from you and your series of videos. Hopefully with this video I can get a few of my buddies into this fun world. I keep pointing out those RCBS kit deals and they really just want to get into 223 and a nice single stage kit would be a great start!
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A tip for the garand, i would highly reccomend the schuster adjustable gas plug for the garand, easy to install and has an adjustable allen screw with locking nut. Adjustments will slightly change the internal volume of the gas tube thus allowing you to tune how aggressively the bolt will cycle allowing you to use any 30-06 ammunition. You just start with it in the starting position as stated in the manual and your rifle wont cycle and then you make adjustments until it cycles reliably. Pretty handy for use with modern 30-06 loads
It's weird how much I enjoy your vids! If you enjoy it, keep it up brother!
Thanks JRB. I have learned so much and implemented so much from your Channel. I know it’s rough out there for those of us who desire info and enjoy this space but thanks man. Fixing to test a general purpose horn fmj 55 grain load and a smk 69 load in my go to 556 rifle. Powders are aa2230 cfe223 h335 and varget. Hopefully I can find something. Just got a decent chrono. Not looking to poo primers but am looking for some decent speed and accuracy. We shall see soon. Thanks again.
Nothing like getting back to the basics. Thanks, Johnny.
I am continually impressed by the quality of your content.
The vast majority of my shooting/reloading is done vicariously through you while I'm feeding my kid a bottle in the middle of the night. You're an excellent teacher and good company. Thank you for bringing us along. I look forward to all of your future experiments and projects.
Thank you for this video. You showed a lot of details that others don’t cover. Like actually applying the sizing line, and that sometimes it not a smooth stroke for sizing the brass.
48 minute video... I am 2.5 hours into this video and haven't finished cuz I am so enthralled I have to google every other word you use so I can understand it. LOVE IT.
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Ever thought about making an induction annealer? North East Texas Tactical has a video on how to make one around $200 with 0.01 second accuracy. Super quick and easy (I was a USMC grunt, if I can do it anyone can). Works great! No open flame or propane to buy, No molten salt. The build would make a good video for you to make, and he has a tips and tricks video that I found useful. keep up the good work Sir, Love your videos!
Very informative and excellent instruction!!!
Thanks for the videos, I am newly retired and have started reloading and your videos have been extremely helpful. Doing only handgun rounds now on a Lee single stage press, but my results have been fantastic. You have been playing during my time at the bench. Thanks again.
One of my Garands was issued to PFC Lee Marvin.
I wish I had discovered your channel before going headlong into my reloading set up with my credit card. I would have skipped the vibratory tumbler ASAP and had a better scale than the one that came with my Rebel Master kit!
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I put my lanolin mixture in a spray bottle and spray the cases once or twice in a rubbermaid tub. Shake them up and they're ready to go. Never had any problems. Best case lube I've ever used.
What a beautiful rifle. I absolutely love the Garand. I appreciate this video.
I've loaded match grade 30-06 for my springfield and settled on 47 grain IMR 4895 at 3.3 with 175 gr SMK. Typically get 1.5" at 100 yards.
My hunting load 175gr Barnes LRX and IMR 4895 @ 47.2
LC brass with RWS primers
Dillon 550 RL over 30 yrs! Never any problems! Thank you Sir very good!
Well I’ll be darned a old school long form video from JRB… today has been a good day my 1 year old was over all not a pain in the neck. Had a good dinner and to top it all off a good long video from JRB…. Cool!!!!!!
I made up a dummy round out of a split case with just a bullet, no primer and painted blue.
I use that to remove my case mouth dents. Just insert and turn while they are in the loading tray. Perfect case mouths for sizing and quick to do.
I’ve been waiting for this video. I’ve reloaded some (M1 specific) for mine just using manuals and am set up for ladder testing but I haven’t got the chronograph and paper targets out yet.
Great video! The IMR 4895 with the 175 SMK combination is a classic M72 match load clone recipe. I was thinking about trying that exact combination for some reloads for my neighbor's 1903a3. I just need to find some IMR 4895 in stock.
I just ran a test with 46gr IMR 4895, 175gr SMK, R-P Brass, and CCI LRP. I landed right at 2570 FPS. I always like it when my data lines up with what others are doing. I didn’t test it for accuracy though… hopefully i can squeeze into something under 6 inches 😂.
All jokes aside, I appreciate all your hard work! Thank you!
Awesome JRB returns!
I think my favorite recipe for the M-1 is a 150 grain FMJ over 50.0 grains of IMR 4064... absolutely love that load. Shoots around 2780FPS or so and shoots light out in my rifle.
I use the 150 FMJ Hornady's and 46gr of H4895 to get just over 2800fps, basically a M2 Ball load and my Garand shoots better than most bolt rifles.
Years ago l settled on 49.0 grs of IMR 4064 for around 2740fps. This was the older longer grained powder. I've noticed the newer stuff is a shorter grain and haven't tested to see if there's any difference.
@@bumblebeebob yeah it's funny how a powder that is the same brand and name can still change from one lot to the next. Either way with the new powder I'm sure your load recipe will still work great!
To lube cases with spray lube, lay them out in a clean baking sheet (I’m sure the wife has some old ones she’d donate!) give one or two quick sprays while passing over the brass. Let it sit a few minutes. Then dump the brass onto another cookie sheet lined with paper towels and shake and roll the brass around. They will all be perfectly lubed and ready to size!
Good choice using the Mighty Armory universal decapping die.
I have one, and it's particularly nice because it has a super strong pin and it's spring-loaded to ensure that the primer fully clears the case each time.
It was great to watch your videos again.
This video would have been a fun one to to watch you live stream the editing on twitch. The start to finish style makes me nostalgic for the Rebel Press editing marathons.
Thanks Johnny. I too have stuck cases in my Redding 30-06 die. I actually broke the die and had to buy another.
As usual, a great video, Johnny! One tip though for using Imperial wax on the inside of the necks: instead of using a Q-tip, just wipe your imperial covered index finger across the case mouth, and it will squeegee a little lube inside the case neck. Given, it won’t be all the way around the circumference, but the expander ball pushing in and out will spread it out nicely. Please keep up the great work Buddy. I love all your videos!!
Thanks for this video…. Have always shot factory ammo, but will start reloading for the 30-06. Great video!
I have had my grandpa's Springfield 30-06 for some time and he use to reload. I made some rounds up that are 150gr but haven't took it to a range. The problem is a lot of the good long ranges shut down around me as it's mostly all indoor ranges. Need to find a range with a good long range area.
Much anticipated and much enjoyed. Cool video!
Great video Johnny, I am in the market for a Garand and will always reload for this rifle once I find a half decent one. No chance of a CMP rifle up here north of the border. Thanks again.
On the subject of case lube: GunBlue's way of applying Lee lube works great. You put a little lube inside a clear plastic container (like gladware) and shake the brass around until the lube is spread evenly along the entire inside of the container. Then, you use a q-tip like JRB just showed. Let it dry for an hour and you won't get any dents.
JRB, your presence on this platform is probably saving some from injury. You've definitely saved me a lot of money. Thanks again.
I hate to admit this... But, I add a bit of liquid car wax to my walnut shell media which does a really nice job of slicking up the brass as well as making them shine ;-) Killing 2 birds with one stone so to speak... My 2 cents
@@n7565j you're not alone. A lot of the dry media guys do that, at least to get the lasting shine.
@@novicereloader I'm glad I'm not alone👍 Thanks for not just calling me an ID10T 🙏🙏
@@n7565j did you notice my channel name? I wouldn't call someone names, unless they persist in being unsafe. JRB called himself that lots on the video with the primers blowing out, because he failed to check his brass between shots. He'd be right if he hadn't had the guts to also show his error and keep others mindful.
I’ve been using the Lee threaded cutter and lock stud. Works with the same case length gauges and shell holders but you can screw the cutter into a motorized case prep center. So I can run my brass through the trimmer, primer pocket scraper, chamfer, and de-burr all in a matter of seconds. Works nice if you are doing larger lots of brass.
I bought a 1903 spr 30-06. I had'nt loaded 3006 in years. I went to blc 2 150's WLR. light loads, could go a little more. but a joy to shoot a old war horse like that!
Johnny, you're not having feeding issues. Smacking the back of the handle is part of the normal manual of arms for the M1 when inserting a new clip. (Yes those are actually clips, the magazine is internal on the Garand)
Search for the video "M1 Garand - Principles of Operation (1943) United States Rifle, Caliber .30, M1" here on youtube and you'll see them routinely smacking it during loading. It helps prevent the dreaded "Garand thumb" (They do it twice between the 1:30 and 2:00 min mark)
Watching you load those clips, I predict you're going to get to experience the pain of a Garand thumb in the not to distant future
Edited to add: they change how they taught to insert the clip after this training film was made, to prevent Garand thumb. Once you get one, you'll understand why.
At a Garand training match, I had a President's 100 shooter/instructor put it best, "Garand shooters fall into 2 categories, those that have had a Garand thumb, and those that are going to get one" FYI, they HURT!!
The front hand guard is a huge source of variation with the point of impact. Many Garand shooters lock the front hand guard down with a process called “unitizing”. They ream the front hand guard ring, screw and glue the hand guard to the rear barrel band. It free floats the barrel in front of the hand guard. Your use of the front hand guard to rest the rifle is probably going to cause huge variations in barrel vibration. When I unitized my Garand hand guard my 8 shot groups shrank from 3.5-4” down to about 2.5” . It is a lot more consistent.
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Best part; after spending $125 $300 hopefully you at the point you don’t care. cause you about to spend more. I just picked up some some 168s and this video is perfect. Thanks.
For the sake of simplicity and not missing anything, when I run the single stage press I go straight from powder charge to seating the bullet in that case, stops any confusion on if I missed or double charged a case, and the time it takes to seat it lets my Frankford rig throw the next charge so I'm not waiting on it
Awesome video as always. A garand is definitely my next milsurp rifle. I really enjoy these older style long videos on older guns.
Love loading for my Garand. I can’t wait to see the results you got. You may want to try 125 grain Speer TNTs too with 3031. It’s a bit of a wildcat load but they are super nice to shoot.
I shoot 125's with charges of Benchmark out of my Garand. It's in the books and flies those 125 Noslers like a laser beam.
After reloading the same brass and other military brass I find the original rcbs case lube works way better.
Got love the ping sond of a m1 on empty clip. Nice long old school jrb video
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For what it's worth, Lyman sells a decapping rod that has a carbide expander ball that can be used to replace the decapping pin for certain dies, including RCBS.
It allows me to totally avoid contaminating the inside cases with a bit of lube inside the case mouth.
It just goes to show how much shooting/hunting/defense equipment has improved over the last 100 or so years. I’d be willing to bet both of those bullet/powder combos could be made to shoot better in a more recently manufactured rifle.
Great video! I've had similar groups, may I suggest checking you front sight housing for lose fit and try moving the rest off the front piece and placing the rifles stock behind the the "Stacking Swivel."
Johnny... seems like you are getting a lot of advice and support on IMR-4895, as you know, that is my go-to powder for my M-1 National Match rifle, I have won many medals with that powder over the years, (IMO) Varget is a little slow, as is the case with IMR-4064, they work, however, the chamber pressures are higher than with IMR-4895 and that will put undue stress on your bolt lugs, So, watch for shiny worn spots on your bolt lugs and receiver recesses if you continue with Varget, another thing as well, I use small base dies, I have witnessed a few super nice Grands worth thousands of dollars blow up because of a few thousands of (Out of Battery lock up on the bolt lugs) remember, the only place that pressure is going to go is back at the shooter. I feel it is better to have a little looseness in the chamber for positive feeding and lock-up of the bolt lugs. So, That's great that you are shooting the old Girl, she will teach you a few things in Marksmanship, I feel that handling the recoil of the .30 caliber rifles in a match builds outstanding skills, more so that a scoped AR-15, (Not the same deal). Peace out. -Dave
Would you use IMR-4895 for .308 Winchester also, or would Varget be suitable for the cartridge? I want to start loading for my AR10.
Love garand stuff, would like to see you test loads with hornady 150gr fmj
Now you're talking!!! This will work well in my all Remington P17
I know you are on a big shotgun kick right now but I would love to see one or two more parts to this video. I would like an economical load with a 150g FMJ and a load using some other powders we can actually buy. I couldn't buy 4895 or Varget right now if my life depended on it.
I just checked a couple days ago to make sure I didn't get unsubscribed or something because I hadn't seen a video in a while and this video you sound a little under the weather so I hope all is well man. Glad to get a full length video like the old days on this channel... LOL
One minor critique, but you left out the important step of chamfering/deburring your brass after trimming it.
Also, that Lee trimmer is so laborious to use that you'll quickly buy one of the better bench mounted (I highly recommend the Redding) trimmer instead.
It hurts to watch you rest the rifle on the front hand guard. The bolt hesitation on closing is normal. Just shove the clip down until you hear the click and take your fingers and thumb out of the magazine well. Then a light tap of the rear side of the charging handle will close the bolt. Your clips are a little rough on the edges, and that will cause the bolt hesitation until the clips smooth out. HXP brass is inconsistent volume wise, but will last a long time. Segregate the brass by year date.
I originally set up my rest to sit on the stock but decided to just put it out on the handguard at the last minute. You're not the only one complaining. I won't do it again.
Would it not make sense to do your load development with the rifle rested on the handguard if that is how you intend to fire it? I'm not going to pretend to load for Garand but I personally beleive this comes in to play with many rifles. milspec handguards for AR come to mind which I have observed POI changes as well when fired rested on different locations(base of handguard/slipring, mag, and front of handguard.
I can only assume it can have an effect on harmonics but I Am interested to hear your findings with Garands and load development/groups, I really don't know enough about them besides commonality they share with all firearms.
@@JohnnysReloadingBench You are forgiven. LOL
@@savagereloader6699 The front hand guard is just there to protect the shooters hand from the moving parts and any heat. It is nothing like a standard handguard on an AR. Resting the rifle on the front handguard will produce variable forces on the barrel and gas cylinder and cause huge POI shifts. You will see the front sling swivel is behind the front handguard, and is meant as the most forward point of support pressure for shooting. The front handguard can be adjusted to provide some pressure between the sling swivel area and the end cap of the front handguard, and this will provide dampening of the barrel vibrations. Get this pressure correct and an M1 will go from a 4 MOA rifle to a 1MOA or less rifle. Like most wooden stocked military rifles these barrels are not free floated, but dampened by the stock if properly fitted.
I was also taught to not hold the weight of the rifle by the upper hand guard. But we were competitors trying to shoot MOA with 3 MOA ammo. Johnny, I still see 300fps less on the video than you are saying in the audio.
I made the same choice as you with the CMP Garand. I have been using IMR 4895 and 147 or 150 grain bullets. It seems to like that combination and the velocity seems spot on.
I reload .30-06, 7.62x54R, and .223. I use the Lee Hand press, Lee Pacesetter (3 die) sets, and Lee case lube for all 3 calibers. I originally purchased Lee Loaders in all three calibers but ran into neck tension problems with 7.62x54R using PPU brass and .311 bullets (maybe .312 would have been fine but were unavailable for a while). The hand press requires a little upper body strength to use with the larger calibers but does the job. I think pretty much any bench mounted press would be fine for .30-06 as long as it has clearance.
Staball 6.5 has been working good for me with the SMK 155 Palma bullets.
My dad has been working on cast loads for his M1 Garand and got a nice load worked up that shoots really good at 100 yds. He casts and powder coats so is able to shoot his Garand for way less. He also worked up cast/coated loads for his AR10 and AR15. I cast and powder coat but haven't tried those 3 rifles yet. I think the only semi auto rifle caliber I've done with cast/coated is the 7.62x39 for my AK's and SKS rifles. Oh, and the M1 Carbine.
Good video, learned a lot. Thanks.
Oh heck yeah. Been waiting on this one a long time!!
I'm all about 46.5 grains of IMR 4895 with Hornady 150 grain fmjbt. Zeroed at 100 yards, this load seems to perfectly match my sight graduations out to 600 yards. I love setting it to the appropriate setting and getting first round hits way out there!
Same load and bullet I shoot out of my Garand. I love those Hornady FMJ 150's and if I do my part will shoot 1moa and yes it does follow the battle receiver sights.
I've owned an M-1 Garand for over 25+ years, and I have used Sierra Palma 155 grains with 4895 type powders.
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I inherited my mother's cousins Garand. It was not uncommon for soldiers to be able to keep their rifles that they used in battle and it is reported that this rifle saw active battle time in Europe. It is probably my favorite rifle. Great video Johnny. Looks like you have a very Garand
With my first Garand, 37 years ago, I didn’t know that you were supposed to use Garand specific loads. OOPS!! Now with years of reloading experience my current Garand is running much better. IMR4895 is the only powder I use for the Garand. At least I didn’t blow my face off!
Try resting your rifle on the stock and not the front hand guard, is is designed to fit loose and may be affecting accuracy.
In my M1A or Garand , its IMR 4895 or NOTHING , 60 years of reloading proves this in my rifles , and my RCBS partner is this going strong after 46 plus years , with all calibers 30-06 down to 222 Remington.
I don't remember my charge weight off hand but I've always had for luck with imr4064
@@deathsicon IMR4064 is my favorite 308 powder.
@@SSgt- I started on 308 2 years ago and it's been my go to for that as well I pick it up just about every time I see some at a decent price
Great video! I needed a reason to load some ammo for my M1 Garand. Maybe another video for M1A 7.62 x 51 loads? 😁. Thanks!
I couldn't help laughing every time I heard the roosters in the background.
Thank you for posting
Pam is a perfectly adequate case lube for 06 and 08. Washes off easy and is cheap and easily available.
That’s too cool I just pulled out my M-1 Grand from the safe Perfect timeing
A back-to-basics video…refreshing
4895 is the traditional favorite for the Garand, and that's what I used to make up 100 rounds for my father-in-law's Garand.
There are others that are acceptable in that platform, namely 4064 and a few others.
You definitely don't want to use the slower powders that allow you to get a bit more velocity out of bolt actions, namely the likes of W760, H414, and any of the 4350 or 4831 powders.
Thank you for sharing your research
I like the IMR 4895 powder -- the supply has dried up the last couple of years though.
Just did 100 for the Garand tonight. I spray a few shots of the lanolin lube on folded t-shirt material that the case body fits perfectly. The neck/shoulder hang off the edge. A single roll is all it takes.
44.7 grains H4895, 44.6 grains n140, Varget. 168 grain hpbt. Keep it under 2600 fps and you won't bend or stress your op rod because they are expensive. Medium burn rate powders. I use the Hornady manual and have excellent results. The military brass is thicker, so you might want to reduce your charge by a grain.
Redding sells a spherical carbide size button that replaces the stock one you showed. I find they work well and you don't have to lubricate the case neck
you may find this interesting or hell not I don't know but something I did when I got my M1 Garand from the CMP last December is put a scope mount on it from Galati International.
"M1 Garand Scope Mount Weaver Style"
it's offset like the type D sniper style M1 grand. This allows you to load the clips, provided your windage knob isn't in the damn way. I realize some people probably find this Blasphemous but it eliminates (or at least severely reduces) one of the variables when doing load development. You can always take it off and put the iron sight back on later. Plus it even gives you a crude peep sight to use. it did allow me to get my groups down to about an inch to inch and a half from two to three inches.
30 06 is pretty versatile and it's fun playing around with different loads. and if you really want to get off into the weeds you can get a gas block that will reduce the port pressure for the Op rod.
Nothing real serious but fun to play around with and I wouldn't mind taking this old girl hunting once or twice
This is an excellent video even for a beginner like me. Could you please provide info on the target and velocity products you used at the range? Thank you.
His target looks like a 100 yard NRA high power target which would be correct from my understanding for this application. His chronograph looks like a doplar radar which is a good piece of kit to have. He has a shot mark system at his target using microphones to gauge muzzle velocity and bullet impact point that sends that data to his computer.