They’re called climbing shoes. Just like in any other sport, climbing has it’s own footwear. They provide several advantages. 1) they have rubber that has very good friction with rock better than sneakers 2) they can be quite stiff and provide support through the arch of your foot, allowing you to stand on tiny footholds, or weight your feet in cracks without your foot collapsing in pain 3) they can protect the foot and ankle and provide a thick sturdy barrier to the harsh and abrasive rock. 4) they are tight and very close to your foot, with no open space inside (think ballerina shoe) so that the foot can sensitively respond to and feel the rock to facilitate effective technique
Nice. Is it back up to 12a; after the last couple ft broke off; making it easier; it was being downgraded to 11d? Now for an OG experience; go for it with stoppers and hexes like it was originally attempted. Lol
According to MP it is: www.mountainproject.com/v/105874590 Also seems like they pink pointed with hexes and stoppers? So I’ll take advantage play on the redpoint, even though I am using cams ;)
@@jewbacha1137 there was a lot of pink pointing and yo yoing between climbers in the old days as standards were pushed. But they also often climbed from the bottom up to Separate Reality and Tales of Power below it. One of my old college roommates Kevin Leary had worked on it before Ron got it.
As a preface, most people pinkpoint this route due to the difficulties involved in solving your question. So instead of lowering and climbing again, which would pose an issue with cleaning the last cam, with back aiding you do the climb in reverse, and i lowered off a sketchy piton thats before the roof. It’s kind of like following a roof aid pitch: m.th-cam.com/video/awlgciQ-QUQ/w-d-xo.html&pp=ygUSSG93IG5vdCAyIHJvb2YgYWlk
We couldn't avoid the cam cleanup issue even with a pink point try because someone needs to clean cams, could we? Anyway, thanks for your answers! "back aiding you do the climb in reverse, and i lowered off a sketchy piton thats before the roof." explains very well! I can't imagine how hard it can be to clean cams in very long roof cracks like century crack.
I'd guess higher because we spend our time running, hiking and climbing in the mountains. The average life expectancy is low due to drugs, sedentary lifestyle, and an all you can eat American diet that makes you fat and depressed.
@@jewbacha1137 America has become the land of the overweight, over drugged, etc., but I was thinking of risk factor. One slip at the wrong moment and the outcome is fatal, and I'm also aware of high-risk behavior and how it can be addictive.
@@user-lh3iw7tg7q 1) But you have to consider priors and the opportunity cost if you are going to make a comparison of lifespan and risk. By necessity, climbers are generally more fit. The sport by definition is a fight against gravity. The more extra weight you carry, the harder it will be to make progress. For this, and many other reasons, climbers are intrinsically much more health conscious. Thus, my guess is that the biggest killers like heart disease, opioid use, and obesity, are much lower in incidence in climbers compared to the average American. So if you choose to be a rock climber, you are more likely to live longer, because there are a lot of things that you are choosing to engage in that make you live longer, like exercise, and there are also a lot of things you are choosing not to do, like sitting on your butt for 40 years (the average American). 2) Climbing is inherently dangerous, just like driving. Climbing is what you make it. You can make it as dangerous or safe as you would like to an extent. Just like being a defensive driver, there are protocols and equipment that can keep you sustainably safe. In the video above, you can see that I am using a rope and other protective equipment. Before I did the climb successfully, I failed 5 or so times before it. This means I fell on the equipment and rope repeatedly. I have fallen on such equipment and rope for years without a single catastrophe, probably as much as a thousand falls total. That equipment is precisely manufactured and tested. That rope is rated to hold up to 5000 pounds of force. Compare that to the average weight of a car, which is about 3000 pounds. The single biggest overwhelming killer in climbing is complacency. Human error, like not checking your systems or not tying a knot etc.
Why Friends were made. Thanks Ray Jardine!
No preplaced gear. I like it!
I want to do this someday!!
Definitely one more magical climbs I’ve ever done! Amazing feeling doing many consecutive roof moves, with the feet somehow sticking so well.
Are those special sneakers?
They’re called climbing shoes. Just like in any other sport, climbing has it’s own footwear. They provide several advantages.
1) they have rubber that has very good friction with rock better than sneakers
2) they can be quite stiff and provide support through the arch of your foot, allowing you to stand on tiny footholds, or weight your feet in cracks without your foot collapsing in pain
3) they can protect the foot and ankle and provide a thick sturdy barrier to the harsh and abrasive rock.
4) they are tight and very close to your foot, with no open space inside (think ballerina shoe) so that the foot can sensitively respond to and feel the rock to facilitate effective technique
Nice.
Is it back up to 12a; after the last couple ft broke off; making it easier; it was being downgraded to 11d?
Now for an OG experience; go for it with stoppers and hexes like it was originally attempted. Lol
According to MP it is: www.mountainproject.com/v/105874590
Also seems like they pink pointed with hexes and stoppers? So I’ll take advantage play on the redpoint, even though I am using cams ;)
@@jewbacha1137 there was a lot of pink pointing and yo yoing between climbers in the old days as standards were pushed. But they also often climbed from the bottom up to Separate Reality and Tales of Power below it.
One of my old college roommates Kevin Leary had worked on it before Ron got it.
@craigbritton1089 that’s so rad!
its def soft for 12a. 11d is valley consensus
@ryank5843 my serotonin levels were just about to tank, but then I realised I could one up you by saying i think its more 11c actually ;)
Nice climb! I’ll try this this year, and could you share the best way to gather the cams set in the roof crack?
wdym by gather? do u mean clean? i back aided.
Yeah I mean cleaning. Lower by belayer and clean cams and climb again with aid? Are there any websites or movies that explain the system?
As a preface, most people pinkpoint this route due to the difficulties involved in solving your question. So instead of lowering and climbing again, which would pose an issue with cleaning the last cam, with back aiding you do the climb in reverse, and i lowered off a sketchy piton thats before the roof. It’s kind of like following a roof aid pitch: m.th-cam.com/video/awlgciQ-QUQ/w-d-xo.html&pp=ygUSSG93IG5vdCAyIHJvb2YgYWlk
We couldn't avoid the cam cleanup issue even with a pink point try because someone needs to clean cams, could we?
Anyway, thanks for your answers! "back aiding you do the climb in reverse, and i lowered off a sketchy piton thats before the roof." explains very well! I can't imagine how hard it can be to clean cams in very long roof cracks like century crack.
@@jhirono You could avoid it if you bring up your belayer from above the roof, and have them climb and clean on follow. Just depends on your goals.
extra points for the gri gri
That's so sick
nice
nicely done
Thanks!
awesome ! but please post the raw video
Had no raw video, just live pics, wierd iphone feature, so managed to merge a series of them into a choppy like video.
@@jewbacha1137lol, get a new cameraman why are they doing that 😂
@@ZerolinGDyou can be my cameraman ;) i don’t got much , but I can pay in bananas, raisins, or hugs.
I'm curious, do avid rock climbers have a lower life expectancy than the general population? Can they get life insurance?
I'd guess higher because we spend our time running, hiking and climbing in the mountains. The average life expectancy is low due to drugs, sedentary lifestyle, and an all you can eat American diet that makes you fat and depressed.
@@jewbacha1137 America has become the land of the overweight, over drugged, etc., but I was thinking of risk factor. One slip at the wrong moment and the outcome is fatal, and I'm also aware of high-risk behavior and how it can be addictive.
@@user-lh3iw7tg7q 1) But you have to consider priors and the opportunity cost if you are going to make a comparison of lifespan and risk. By necessity, climbers are generally more fit. The sport by definition is a fight against gravity. The more extra weight you carry, the harder it will be to make progress. For this, and many other reasons, climbers are intrinsically much more health conscious. Thus, my guess is that the biggest killers like heart disease, opioid use, and obesity, are much lower in incidence in climbers compared to the average American. So if you choose to be a rock climber, you are more likely to live longer, because there are a lot of things that you are choosing to engage in that make you live longer, like exercise, and there are also a lot of things you are choosing not to do, like sitting on your butt for 40 years (the average American).
2) Climbing is inherently dangerous, just like driving. Climbing is what you make it. You can make it as dangerous or safe as you would like to an extent. Just like being a defensive driver, there are protocols and equipment that can keep you sustainably safe. In the video above, you can see that I am using a rope and other protective equipment. Before I did the climb successfully, I failed 5 or so times before it. This means I fell on the equipment and rope repeatedly. I have fallen on such equipment and rope for years without a single catastrophe, probably as much as a thousand falls total. That equipment is precisely manufactured and tested. That rope is rated to hold up to 5000 pounds of force. Compare that to the average weight of a car, which is about 3000 pounds. The single biggest overwhelming killer in climbing is complacency. Human error, like not checking your systems or not tying a knot etc.
@@jewbacha1137 You are articulate and intelligent and I defer to your analysis. Thank you for replying. Live long, as I suspect you will.
Swag
Cured my ED
🤣