I keep on going with my intake gasket replacement. In this video I get the intake back on the engine. Donate to Help me create content: www.paypal.com...
Oh man, I can't thank you enough, for this tutorial! I'm resurrecting my son's 2000 Jimmy, that was left to me, and this seemed to be the deepest job left to do - repairing the spider. There are lots of little pointers/demonstrations, along the way here, that have easily cleared things up for me. Before watching #2, I closed up tonight, trying to figure out how to get the unit above the spider disconnected, and get the gas lines disconnected. Love the fact that you tell what tools, sizes, etc..., to use - for instance, the frog foot, or whatever it is called, wrench end, to put on a socket extension, to get at the fuel line connections. I've never used one before, though have seen them. I'm headed to the parts store, 1st thing tomorrow, to buy one! Also am glad to hear whenever you say "this is pretty easy". From all the work I've done so far, I've been very careful, to lube bolts, heat them - a lot, then quench them. Haven't had anything break yet (replaced all the rear brake lines, replaced both front brake pads, replaced rear differential seal, then dropped the fuel tank, (took the longest yet, to accomplish) in order to replace the sender. I was trying to get the thermostat cover off, but it wasn't budging. Heated/quenched again - no dice, though I wonder if I'm over thinking it? So far, just using a 10" ratchet handle. Should I forge ahead, with a breaker bar, or keep PB'ing it, and heating it? The vehicle was originally from CO, but then spent, I don't know how many years up in the salted roads of NNY. Body is fine, though lots of rusty stuff on the underside. I'm really impressed with what a stout vehicle this is, and how well armored the underside is with so many guards. Pretty impressed with how well everything cleaned up in your engine. I'll be watching the rest of the series now. Again, Thank you, so much!!! Brilliant!!!
Smart move replacing the oil pressure sending unit and fuel pressure regulator........hate to have to take it apart again next week because of one of them
Anyone doing this job should seriously consider changing from old style poppet injectors to new style. Complete new injectors and spider, if you plan to keep the vehicle. Kits abound from $175 to $300. EBAY, Rock Auto, NAPA, the usual places.
@@jonmac3100 More reliable, more accurate/responsive, better spray pattern, more low end torque. Unfortunately, slightly less gas mileage , about 1mpg avg. on my 03 S-10 ZR/2.
@@x-man5056 okay cool, thanks for the response, I am taking mine out tomorrow. After some research it looks like my 2002 may have been built with the newer style injectors.
@@jonmac3100 There were a smattering of them after 2002. My 03 had the new style also but I was changing the intake gaskets so just did them while I was in there. Still lost a little MPG, better low end and idled better. I had a buddy with an 02 that had the old style. If you haven't changed the intake gaskets yet, now is a good time.
I wonder if attaching some bungee cords to the wiring harness and hooking the opposite ends to the hood would help clear them out of the way. Ahhh, I see that you did this later.
This would have been a great time to change out that old style poppet injector unit for the upgraded factory direct injection design, much more reliable.
I wouldn't even mess with disconnecting from the fuse box, i have done this twice no just as easy to bungy wires up out of way..just have someone there kinda watching wires and un-catch them if they get hung up.
Hey mossman I just got done doing the job, well almost, I can’t seem to get the fuel lines back in there. Any tips?? The orings make it very difficult. I appreciate this video series so much!! Thank you!
@@mossman381 i already messed it up one time, damaged the seals and my fuel pressure dropped immediately after turning on the engine 🤦♂️. should I put the o rings into the spider assembly first or should they be on fuel line and put it together at the same time? Thanks again!
I used this video to do the intake gaskets on my 97. I used the same Fel Pro gaskets & ended up having a antifreeze leak out of 1 of the water jackets on the passenger side. I was told I should have used rtv around each water jacket to prevent this yet I didn’t see you do it. Any ideas what may have happened?
You shouldn't need rtv on the intake gasket. It's been awhile since I did this. Did you put rtv on your bolts? Did you torque them correctly in the crisscross pattern?
@@ahlers1977 It's worth a shot. I would take the bolts out of a cold engine and let it sit overnight to cure. Also do one at a time. Snug them up when reinstalling them. Then do the torque sequence again.
You really need to put new spider injectors in it they go bad alot and the lines are brittle I can't beleive b they didn't break off when you removed them
hey good work wanted to ask you if you remember how the map sensor is secured on to the intake.My sensor seems to pop of way to easy any help would be appreciated I'll be paying some to do the same gaskets on my truck need to have all the parts ready by the end off the week
It's kool good job on the vids still I wish I could do it my self but I have back problems I'll study the 5 vids so I can show my mechanic whats the best way to do it. Keep up the great work God bless
Are you the first owner on this vehicle? I would like to know about this lifetime warranty on the water pump. I have a 2001 s10 that needs a new water pump and a free one would be nice.
i got one for you today i hooked up a the sensor thats in front of the engine under the water pump and when i hooked up the battery my truck started by it self what would cause this
Phil manwarren I don't think the sensor had anything to do with starting. Something bypassed your switch. Maybe the starter solenoid is bad. Not sure without seeing it myself.
Ok, just got mine back together and it does not leak!! But, now my temperature gauge does not work. I assume i either have something plugged in wrong (which is hard to do because i think they all only fit one place) "or" i have the temperature sensor unplugged yet. Does anyone know where the temperature sensor might be on this engine ??
Yippy found my problem. The temperature sensor in between plug 3 and 6 on the drivers side. I don't remember unplugging it but it was unplugged. Not only does it run your temp gauge on the dash but also emission stuff like how much fuel is sprayed because mine was also not starting like it should either. Soon as i plugged it in the gauge was working and it starts and runs perfect!
Jeff Everett It is easy to miss a plug. The trucks computer uses the temp to determine how much fuel the truck needs. Without the temp gauge it probably goes into a predetermined setting which wouldn't be ideal or it might think the truck was cold even when it was warm.
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Oh man, I can't thank you enough, for this tutorial! I'm resurrecting my son's 2000 Jimmy, that was left to me, and this seemed to be the deepest job left to do - repairing the spider. There are lots of little pointers/demonstrations, along the way here, that have easily cleared things up for me. Before watching #2, I closed up tonight, trying to figure out how to get the unit above the spider disconnected, and get the gas lines disconnected. Love the fact that you tell what tools, sizes, etc..., to use - for instance, the frog foot, or whatever it is called, wrench end, to put on a socket extension, to get at the fuel line connections. I've never used one before, though have seen them. I'm headed to the parts store, 1st thing tomorrow, to buy one! Also am glad to hear whenever you say "this is pretty easy". From all the work I've done so far, I've been very careful, to lube bolts, heat them - a lot, then quench them. Haven't had anything break yet (replaced all the rear brake lines, replaced both front brake pads, replaced rear differential seal, then dropped the fuel tank, (took the longest yet, to accomplish) in order to replace the sender. I was trying to get the thermostat cover off, but it wasn't budging. Heated/quenched again - no dice, though I wonder if I'm over thinking it? So far, just using a 10" ratchet handle. Should I forge ahead, with a breaker bar, or keep PB'ing it, and heating it? The vehicle was originally from CO, but then spent, I don't know how many years up in the salted roads of NNY. Body is fine, though lots of rusty stuff on the underside. I'm really impressed with what a stout vehicle this is, and how well armored the underside is with so many guards. Pretty impressed with how well everything cleaned up in your engine. I'll be watching the rest of the series now. Again, Thank you, so much!!! Brilliant!!!
If you have time to let some blaster sit on it then I would do that. Let it soak overnight. Then you will have to pray to the car gods they come out.
Amazing work! Thank you so much for making such a detailed series. I feel confident to tackle this job now on my Dad’s Blazer.
these videos helped alot bc im about to redo my gaskets as well and my valve covers
Glad to help.
Smart move replacing the oil pressure sending unit and fuel pressure regulator........hate to have to take it apart again next week because of one of them
Thanks, exactly what I was thinking.
Anyone doing this job should seriously consider changing from old style poppet injectors to new style. Complete new injectors and spider, if you plan to keep the vehicle. Kits abound from $175 to $300. EBAY, Rock Auto, NAPA, the usual places.
What is the benefit of the new style?
@@jonmac3100 More reliable, more accurate/responsive, better spray pattern, more low end torque. Unfortunately, slightly less gas mileage , about 1mpg avg. on my 03 S-10 ZR/2.
@@x-man5056 okay cool, thanks for the response, I am taking mine out tomorrow. After some research it looks like my 2002 may have been built with the newer style injectors.
@@jonmac3100 There were a smattering of them after 2002. My 03 had the new style also but I was changing the intake gaskets so just did them while I was in there. Still lost a little MPG, better low end and idled better. I had a buddy with an 02 that had the old style.
If you haven't changed the intake gaskets yet, now is a good time.
I wonder if attaching some bungee cords to the wiring harness and hooking the opposite ends to the hood would help clear them out of the way. Ahhh, I see that you did this later.
bg147 Some say you can unhook the wires from the main box but I prefer to leave them connected. Wasn't that bad.
This would have been a great time to change out that old style poppet injector unit for the upgraded factory direct injection design, much more reliable.
Great video brother
The wire harness crossing over the top of the motor can be moved completely out of the way by disconnecting it from the underside of the fusebox
Sounds good but it can be done without removing it. Would be great if you did a video showing how to disconnect it.
I wouldn't even mess with disconnecting from the fuse box, i have done this twice no just as easy to bungy wires up out of way..just have someone there kinda watching wires and un-catch them if they get hung up.
Great video thanks it helped alot
Hey mossman I just got done doing the job, well almost, I can’t seem to get the fuel lines back in there. Any tips?? The orings make it very difficult. I appreciate this video series so much!! Thank you!
Need to lube the o-rings. If you try to force it they could tear.
@@mossman381 i already messed it up one time, damaged the seals and my fuel pressure dropped immediately after turning on the engine 🤦♂️. should I put the o rings into the spider assembly first or should they be on fuel line and put it together at the same time? Thanks again!
I used this video to do the intake gaskets on my 97. I used the same Fel Pro gaskets & ended up having a antifreeze leak out of 1 of the water jackets on the passenger side. I was told I should have used rtv around each water jacket to prevent this yet I didn’t see you do it. Any ideas what may have happened?
You shouldn't need rtv on the intake gasket. It's been awhile since I did this. Did you put rtv on your bolts? Did you torque them correctly in the crisscross pattern?
@@mossman381 I did not put any rtv on the bolts but yes I did use the correct torque & sequence.
@@ahlers1977 That would be your issue. If you watch the beginning of part 4 of this video series I show installing the intake bolts.
mossman381 So do you think I can just take the bolts back out rtv them & reinstall without pulling the intake clear back off?
@@ahlers1977 It's worth a shot. I would take the bolts out of a cold engine and let it sit overnight to cure. Also do one at a time. Snug them up when reinstalling them. Then do the torque sequence again.
I upgraded to the new style spider,injectors on each port
Why didn't you just turn the manifold on its side and push them injectors out from the bottom up?
@@grandinfinite5921 Can't tell you why. Been too long.
Bit how can i tell its not the head gasket or the intake manifold gasket
Following
Your water pump wasn't leaking,that rust probably came from the leaking intake gasket.
You really need to put new spider injectors in it they go bad alot and the lines are brittle I can't beleive b they didn't break off when you removed them
hey good work wanted to ask you if you remember how the map sensor is secured on to the intake.My sensor seems to pop of way to easy any help would be appreciated I'll be paying some to do the same gaskets on my truck need to have all the parts ready by the end off the week
+Alberto Chavira Sorry I can't remember how the map sensor was installed.
It's kool good job on the vids still I wish I could do it my self but I have back problems I'll study the 5 vids so I can show my mechanic whats the best way to do it. Keep up the great work God bless
Alberto Chavira use a rubber hammer and just give it a little love tap
What's the trick to getting the injectors out
good shit brotha
Glad to help.
Are you the first owner on this vehicle? I would like to know about this lifetime warranty on the water pump. I have a 2001 s10 that needs a new water pump and a free one would be nice.
The water pump was replaced not too long ago so there should have been a warranty on it.
i got one for you today i hooked up a the sensor thats in front of the engine under the water pump and when i hooked up the battery my truck started by it self what would cause this
Phil manwarren I don't think the sensor had anything to do with starting. Something bypassed your switch. Maybe the starter solenoid is bad. Not sure without seeing it myself.
i found it it was my remote starter
Ok, just got mine back together and it does not leak!! But, now my temperature gauge does not work. I assume i either have something plugged in wrong (which is hard to do because i think they all only fit one place) "or" i have the temperature sensor unplugged yet. Does anyone know where the temperature sensor might be on this engine ??
Yippy found my problem. The temperature sensor in between plug 3 and 6 on the drivers side. I don't remember unplugging it but it was unplugged. Not only does it run your temp gauge on the dash but also emission stuff like how much fuel is sprayed because mine was also not starting like it should either. Soon as i plugged it in the gauge was working and it starts and runs perfect!
Jeff Everett It is easy to miss a plug. The trucks computer uses the temp to determine how much fuel the truck needs. Without the temp gauge it probably goes into a predetermined setting which wouldn't be ideal or it might think the truck was cold even when it was warm.
Tengo que remover el distribuidor
put oil on the plastic housing or it's a bitch putting it over the spider o-ring