Thank you, Bill! I am pleased with how it turned out both cosmetically and mechanichally. It runs great and it does get up and boogey! Thanks for watching!
Ole red white and blue. Love it.. thanks for the tip on my 1970 4 horse lightwin .. runs like a champ... Beside that screw being loose the fuel line from pump to carb was deteriorating.
Thank you. I'm glad I was able to help you out with your Lightwin. O figure I'll have to replace fuel lines on every motor I work on. If I don't it's just a bonus. Thanks for watching!
You just keep getting better and better!!! If it is possible could you do a video on your boat? I really want to see how you have it set up to run so well. Thank you so much.
Thank you! I might do a video on the boat sometime. The mods were kind of driven by necessity. The boat is almost useless for me to run from a tiller without another passenger to ride in front. I boat by myself a lot and this boat is the one I take on a week long camping trip where I haul my 12 foot enclosed trailer. It has to fir inside and be able to be transported upside down on the gunwales sitting on the floor of the trailer. It works very well. Thanks for watching!
Nice rescue and a great runner too. Like the flame job, different but not overdone. Quite the laundry list of repairs, but it sounds like it's happy now, wishing you many hundreds of trouble-free running hours! Doug@ the "ranch"
Thank you. I'm very pleased with this one. It was a project but well worth the work to bring it back. I hope to have the pleasure of running it hundreds of hours as well. It seems to be quite happy now. Thanks for watching!
It feels like it is scooting along pretty well. It stillnfeelana bit faster than 25mph from the driver's seat. It ,of course, doesn't feel as fast as it used to when I did it the first time. It doesn't really feel as fastnfrom the steering wheel as it does from the tiller either. I think that is because the boat is so much more stable and predictable than it was / is from a tiller. It really is a fun little boat to drive. Thanks for watching!
Thank you! This rig did turn out great. I really enjoy running it. This is a heck of a motor too, especially considering I built it out of a pair of junkers. I van wait for boating season again. Thanks for watching!
Thank you. I appreciate the compliment. I'm getting a bit of interest in my boat setup. I may do a video on the process. It was sort of born out of necessity and designed and built on the fly with materials I had on hand. After what I learned putting a factory accessory center steering deck on my Alumacraft FD I could see doing this again sometime in another boat. I wouldn't mind building a smaller 12 footer in a similar way and bracing the transom for at least 25hp. This boat is a little crazy with a big displacement 25 on it as it is though. Running the Johnson RD-16 on this on requires the motor to be trimmed all the way in and sitting as far starboard as I can to counter prop torque. A shallow, narrow 12 footer may be simply not enough boat. Thanks for watching!
Thank you. Actually, all the classic OMC outboards from 5.5hp to the manual shift V4s could be fitted with a tiller and / or remote cable controls. I also have a 35hp Big Twin with a tiller that I run with remotes also. Any of the standard tiller motors 10hp and up were equipped with provisions for cable connections as standard equipment. Cable anchor clips are attached to the two anchor points and cables attached. The 5.5 and 7.5 could have the anchor adapters added and be run with remotes also. That's one of the nice features of those motors. I did do a video on the remote steering and control box mount I made to add remotes to this boat. Thanks for watching!
She sounds GREAT JR. I just bought one today...MAN SHE IS ROUGH! He said it had no fire...pulled the flywheel...NO top oil seal...NO cam lobe that opens the points, that MAY have something to do with the fire! The points are 1/2 inch away from the crankshaft without that ring with the lobe on it. I would say she had a mouse nest in it...paint off everywhere but wiring not chewed. Did a compression test....dry, not run in years, 120 and 120 EXACTLY. I have never had an old 18 here with 120 in both. It WILL live again. What are you getting for compression on those 60's 18 hp motors? Mine is a 67 just like yours. Love to watch these 62 to 69 18's.
The remote throttle and shift are both hooked up to a 1970s Evinrude Simplex 2-lever control box with the appropriate control cables. All the mid 1950s thru early 1970s 10hp and up outboards came standard with mounting for control cable anchors and connection points on the throttle and shift sides of the motor. I'll see about a video on this boat sometime in the future. Thanks for watching!
I’m having trouble with the choke rod and the wire that hooks to mine gonna picture of how your is? I took carb off and got it all back but choke. Also how did you convert to electric start?
If I remove the head, then I usually replace the head gasket. As long as I'm not getting any signs of the head gasket is failed or failing and I don't have a need to remove the head, I do not replace the head gasket. They have gotten rather expensive as well. I don't see any reason to replace it if I don't suspect it is causing any problems. Thanks for watching!
I replaced the casting woth one that was not broken. I'm not sure if JB Weld would be a durable enough fix for that to last very long. Thanks for watching!
I have one of these that I'm gonna fix up soon and try to max it out to 25 hp to replace my dingey 10 hp on my 16" fiberglass. Was it easy setting up the steering wheel cuz I wanna do that too
These are great motors. My favorite outboards. Fair warning, you cannot make a 25 out of an 18. First limiting factor is the block itself. The internal machining is different between the two. The port timing is different in the 25hp. Other differences are the cylinder head, crankshaft, and pistons. The connecting rods and bearings are the only internal components that are exactly the same between the 18hp and the 25hp if memory serves me correctly. The 25hp 22c.i did not come on the scene until 1969. The 18hp and 25hp share the same carburetor body from 1969 on. The earlier 18hp has a smaller intake and carburetor that is not interchangeable with the '69-up. It may work if the entire intake was swapped. The '67 18hp also does not have the innter exhaust tuner tube like the '69-up does. '69-up 18 and 25 share the same tuner. The carburetor is the same between the 18 and the 25, but the 25 has a larger main jet. If the larger jet is run in the 18hp, it typically just runs rich at WOT due to the lesser air flow through the block due to porting differences. Basically, tune the 18 to be the best it can and enjoy it for what it is. It will never be a 25, but the 25 is not a huge gain over the 18 anyway in real world use. Theb18s typically idle better and use less fuel while still having plenty of power. Thanks for watching!
It turned out to be a good healthy one. It's a great runner and I'm glad I put the work into it to get it back on the water. Everything is faster with flames!😜 Thanks for watching!
@@oldjohnnyrude8404 I picked up one of these motors a few weeks ago. I am having trouble getting it to rev up and stay on the high end more than a few seconds. I am getting about 14mph and having problems with the high end needle jet. What's a good way to get in touch?
It is just an old school cable / pulley steering system. I made I video that overviews the build I did on this boat on this channel. Thanks for watching!
I have had a number of requests to do a video on my boat mods. I will try to get one done in the coming weeks. There seems to be a lot of interest in how I did this. Thanks for watching!
Have a question for you sir, I just brought a 1970 back from the dead, I need a lower half of the gear case (skeg) it was ground down I could see the spaghetti seal from the outside of the case, what years are able to bolt up to it? Thanks in advance Chuck
It is sort of taking a chance if it will seal properly or not when you do that. The gearcase halves were originally bored as an assembly before having the gearset installed so they truly are supposed to be a matched set. That said, I have done this many times and have had morors that have had that done to them probably as many times. Probably 85-90% of the time they will seal and not cause a bind on the gear train. As far as fitting up, the skeg half any of the 5-bolt gearcases from 1955 thru the end of the run will fit. In fact, the early large size 4-bolt case from the '53 and '54 Evinrude 15hp and the Johnson 10hp clear back to 1952 will bolt up. The earlier ones had a cross pin inside for the shift fork instead of the Phillips head screw pin thru the side, but the 6 screws all line up and fit and all the innards are the same size. Thanks for watching!
@@oldjohnnyrude8404 I had a feeling, thank you my friend. I have it jb welded now, this motor had a half pound of sand in the lower unit, the sheer pin was broken in three places, the water pick up tube rubber seal was melted, the lower unit, the spaghetti seal was visible threw the case, like it was dragged on concrete for a block, the pull cord assembly was stripped, repaired all that, new carb kit, new water pump, sealed the lower unit (all seals) cleaned up the points and set them to 020 , she fired right up on the third pull, shifts in all gears.. that shift rod had a build up of carbon I had to sand it off.. I'm a big fan of these older 18's they seem to run well if you treat them right.. this one was treated like an unwanted stepchild. I got it for a hundred dollars, put about that into it.. thanks for sharing your experience with us.
@@oldjohnnyrude8404 I’m having difficulty sending a picture. It’s at the top of the lower unit. Oil runs out of them when I fill it. I drain milky oil every time I try to remedy. I tried twice and now had a professional try. Still leaking.
@@dennislove96 Where are you trying to send a picture? A pro couldn't get your gearcase to seal up? What is the oil running out of at the top of the lower unit? Which seals have been replaced? Are the shafts badly worn where the seals ride?
@@oldjohnnyrude8404 I’m not a Motor Guy. My motor is leaking oil from a couple of ports at the top of the lower unit, the motor runs great, just can’t get the lower unit to seal.
@@dennislove96 There are a couple weep holes that allow the water and any unburned exhaust residue to drain out of the exhaust housing. What does the oil that's leaking look like? Is it light brown and clear or is it gray and milky or is is black? Does it smell like gear oil or gasoline? I'm thinking you are just seeing the oily exhaust residue coming out. That will be black or milky gray if the motor was not run long enough to get up to temperature. If that is what you're seeing, that is completely normal.
I buy many of my parts from Marineengine.com, iBoats.com, and vintageoutboard.com. Local Evinrude dealers can get parts as well. Depending upon the parts needed, sometimes Ebay, Craigslist, amd FB Marketplace can be sources also. Thanks for watching!
@@oldjohnnyrude8404 I do have one more question I'm getting alot of splash back between transom and motor I raised the motor up so the cavitation plate is level with hull but it's still doing its had hydrofoils on it since I put on do you think those would cause it?
@@TheDudeak Yes, the hydrofoil will often cause the splash. I rarely if ever run those on my boats. If things are set up properly, they are not needed and only serve to slow you down with excess drag.
This a kind of a tough question. I would have to say my favorite 10hp motor would be the 1957 Johnson QD-18 or Evinrude Sportwin. Both the same motor other than cosmetics. I love the way the classic OMC 10s run and 1957 is the last year for the 5-bolt gearcase on the 10hp. It is only very slightly slower than the 4-bolt case on the 58-63 models but is in another class in terms of durability. If I really had my way I would have this motor rebuilt with all the needle bearing internals from the 1963 model to eliminate the potential issues of the small bushing wrist pins from the earlier models. For the 15-18 class, I would have to say the 1964-1967 Evinrude Fastwin is my favorite. This is my favorite all around outboard motor of all. If I had to have only one motor it would be one of these. They're simple, they start so easily when properly tuned. They run strong and idle very well. It is still light enough to be portable and will push a light boat along at a nice brisk clip. Lots of parts are available and fairly inexpensive. I like the styling (although the classic 50s look still wins in this area this one is next in line). The fixed jet orifice used in this range seems to be as perfect as is attainable for high speed tuning. Electric start is available and the conversion is easy to do. 1967 is the last year before the crankcase puddle drain was routed back to the intake to try to burn off the excess discharge. While this was a valiant attempt made for environmental reasons which I respect, it had a bad effect on run quality of the later versions. They're still excellent motors, but idle quality suffered a bit. I believe the 1977-1992 9.9/15 OMC is the pinnacle of the fishing outboard. These are fantastic motors. Very durable and more efficient than my favorite, but I do not care for working on them as much as the earlier classics. That and the CDI ignition, while a brilliant advancement in terms of required maintenance, is not user repairable if it fails. It can only be replaced.
What year is your Fastwin and are you running it at the tiller or with remote steering and controls? The kill circuit was added in 1958. If the motor has the kill circuit, the original kill button can be swapped out for a kill switch with a tether with some creative mounting. I put a tether kill switch on my electric start '67 Fastwin that I also have videos of on my channel. I drilled a hole in the lower pan to mount that switch to. If I was not using the original front kill button hole for cable routing, I'd have put it there and not drilled any holes. If your motor does not have the factory kill circuit on the magneto, wires can be added to each set of points and out through the bottom of the magneto plate. Thise wires would be connected to the kill switch. Thanks for watching!
Hello, I recently picked up an pretty rare 1961 sea king 40hp. Im replacing the coils and wanted your opinion on the brand. What do you think would be best- OEM, Sierra, or CDI?
Congrats on your motor! Thats a nice one. I recommend only OEM for ignition and fuel system components. Definitely OEM for coils since the German Prufrex coils are no longer being made. Thanks for watching!
I’m so undecided. So imma ask you... If you had your choice between a 66 18hp fastwin, a 62 Johnson 18hp seahorse, and a 62 28 hp speeditwin, for a 13’ 1973 Gregor, to be used as a fishing boat in lakes and river and sf bay, and ocean on calm days...what would be your choice? Mostly me and my dog, but sometimes with a buddy... I love the 28 and it runs the best out of all of them, but I’m just afraid it’s too much for the boat/transom, it’s like 20-30 lbs heavier than the 18s...
The 28 is a great motor, but its a lot on a 13 foot fishing boat. I don't know the ratings of your 13 foot Gregor, but I have to imagine it is 25hp or less. The weight of the motor matters for a couple reasons too. Extra transom weight will make the boat porpoise easier and it reduces the carrying capacity of the boat for other cargo and passengers. The 18s should both be excellent running motors if they are tuned up. They won't have the torque of the 28 by any means, but for a 13 foot fishing boat that may have 2 people and gear in it, it will be great. My personal preference between the two 18s is the 66 Fastwin. I prefer the stying of the Jetstream cowl on the Evinrude over the white box on the Johnson, but both are great motors. The Gregor is a nice boat. I would try the Fastwin and see how that satisfies your needs.
Old JohnnyRude lol, you told me what I already knew, I was really hoping you would say “go for the 28” ;) I made a guy an offer for a 16’ this morning, we’ll see if he bites... I love the styling of the fastwin also, it’s my favorite as far as looks and style, I’ll be honest, it IS a better ride in the boat. Still wanna send you a coffee card for helping me get that fastwin running bro...
Old JohnnyRude ok. I don’t know why I do this to myself... I found a 63 lark 4 and a 59 golden jubilee on CL.The lark comes on a junk boat WITH all the controls and steering and electric start, the golden jubilee is just the motor. They both look to be in similar condition, not bad but not great, both gonna need the CL special tuneup. Each one wants $200. If you could only pick 1, which would it be?
@@TheFrogfeeder between those two motors, if I had to pick one and it was to be a regular user, I would choose the Lark 4 ONLY IF it is a manual shift motor. I would not recommend the electric shift motors. They worked well when working, but are susceptible to damage from slight water intrusion amd very expensive to repair that gearcase. That large crankshaft 40hp is a wonderful motor and the fact it comes with all the controls is a bonus. If it is an electric shift, just walk away. Is the Jubilee 35 electric start or is it a rope start only motor? These can be rope started, but they get very tiring to rope over. The standard Big Twin in non-Lark trim is usually rope start unless someone has upgraded it. It's an excellent motor too, but electric start is highly recommended. Having to source the controls and wiring is also an added expense. I have two of these motors and I really like them. My '63 40 horse is probably my favorite of my bigger motors though.
Old JohnnyRude yessir, trekked all day to the middle of nowhere and got the lark! It needs a solenoid for sure. It’s not electric shift, I got the 2 handle Johnson controls also. Guy wanted me to tow the whole boat away, thank god it wasn’t in towable condition...I took hella parts for my 200 tho, lights, gas tanks, oars, Bimini frame, I left the steering cables and pulleys, but have all my linkage on the motor. I rarely feel good about paying for junk, but I did get a lot today for my money and fell great about it. Maybe tomoro I’ll make a short video, someone sprayed some kinda foam sealant inside the hood down at the bottom in the back, maybe you’d know what they had in mind there, I don’t know if they were trying to seal water out or in...haven’t really looked at it too closely yet, just took it out the car.
Yes, I'm sure this is an 18. I have a 25 too and I get about 2mph more out of it. The 25s also won't idle like this 18. It is definitely a strong running 18 though. I have quite a few 18s and only three of them will run like this one. Thanks for watching!
I have the same motor sitting in my shed for the past 8 years. Can't wait to get it on the water this spring!
Awesome! Get that motor going and get out there. Excellent outboard. Thanks for watching!
Man I really dig the paint job ! 👍. Old school flames are kicking !
Thanks Dave!
thanks for saveing a pice of history, and thanks for the boat ride,
Thank you. I'm glad you enjoyed the boat ride. Thanks for watching!
Yeah that motor needed a lot of attention. But you brought it back to life good job!
Yes, it did. It was rough, but I love these 18s and it was well worth the work. Thank you and thanks for watching!
Love the color combination on the hood Ben! That motor gets up and boogies! Wow. Nice work!
Thank you, Bill! I am pleased with how it turned out both cosmetically and mechanichally. It runs great and it does get up and boogey! Thanks for watching!
It turned out to be a good one! Thanks for watching!
Ole red white and blue. Love it.. thanks for the tip on my 1970 4 horse lightwin .. runs like a champ... Beside that screw being loose the fuel line from pump to carb was deteriorating.
Thank you. I'm glad I was able to help you out with your Lightwin. O figure I'll have to replace fuel lines on every motor I work on. If I don't it's just a bonus. Thanks for watching!
You just keep getting better and better!!! If it is possible could you do a video on your boat? I really want to see how you have it set up to run so well. Thank you so much.
Thank you! I might do a video on the boat sometime. The mods were kind of driven by necessity. The boat is almost useless for me to run from a tiller without another passenger to ride in front. I boat by myself a lot and this boat is the one I take on a week long camping trip where I haul my 12 foot enclosed trailer. It has to fir inside and be able to be transported upside down on the gunwales sitting on the floor of the trailer. It works very well. Thanks for watching!
Nice rescue and a great runner too. Like the flame job, different but not overdone. Quite the laundry list of repairs, but it sounds like it's happy now, wishing you many hundreds of trouble-free running hours!
Doug@ the "ranch"
Thank you. I'm very pleased with this one. It was a project but well worth the work to bring it back. I hope to have the pleasure of running it hundreds of hours as well. It seems to be quite happy now. Thanks for watching!
That must have felt like 40mph in that set up! 25 mph is very respectable. Runs great. Looks like a blast.
It feels like it is scooting along pretty well. It stillnfeelana bit faster than 25mph from the driver's seat. It ,of course, doesn't feel as fast as it used to when I did it the first time. It doesn't really feel as fastnfrom the steering wheel as it does from the tiller either. I think that is because the boat is so much more stable and predictable than it was / is from a tiller. It really is a fun little boat to drive. Thanks for watching!
Just picked one of these up for cheap not running, can’t wait to fix it up! Nice to see how they do running.
Great motors. My favorites! Good luck with yours. Thanks for watching!
Beautiful motor. Thanks for the vid!
Thank you and thanks for watching!
Very good and very fast ! Congrats !
Thank you! This rig did turn out great. I really enjoy running it. This is a heck of a motor too, especially considering I built it out of a pair of junkers. I van wait for boating season again. Thanks for watching!
Awesome engineering!
Thank you and thanks for watching!
Great little motor! Please do a video on the P12 itself, I love that thing and want to find one!
I will make a video of the P-12. I just have to get my mind right to do it. Thanks for watching!
Love your videos.
Would be awesome to get an indepth video about how your DIY steering column is setup.
Thank you. I appreciate the compliment. I'm getting a bit of interest in my boat setup. I may do a video on the process. It was sort of born out of necessity and designed and built on the fly with materials I had on hand. After what I learned putting a factory accessory center steering deck on my Alumacraft FD I could see doing this again sometime in another boat. I wouldn't mind building a smaller 12 footer in a similar way and bracing the transom for at least 25hp. This boat is a little crazy with a big displacement 25 on it as it is though. Running the Johnson RD-16 on this on requires the motor to be trimmed all the way in and sitting as far starboard as I can to counter prop torque. A shallow, narrow 12 footer may be simply not enough boat. Thanks for watching!
@@oldjohnnyrude8404 I too would love to see how you set this up. I have a 66 and would just love to see this especially the remote throttle.
That’s awesome I’ve never seen a remote set up on a tiller motor like that. Could you make a video on how that works!?! Subscribed!!!
Thank you. Actually, all the classic OMC outboards from 5.5hp to the manual shift V4s could be fitted with a tiller and / or remote cable controls. I also have a 35hp Big Twin with a tiller that I run with remotes also. Any of the standard tiller motors 10hp and up were equipped with provisions for cable connections as standard equipment. Cable anchor clips are attached to the two anchor points and cables attached. The 5.5 and 7.5 could have the anchor adapters added and be run with remotes also. That's one of the nice features of those motors. I did do a video on the remote steering and control box mount I made to add remotes to this boat. Thanks for watching!
She sounds GREAT JR. I just bought one today...MAN SHE IS ROUGH! He said it had no fire...pulled the flywheel...NO top oil seal...NO cam lobe that opens the points, that MAY have something to do with the fire! The points are 1/2 inch away from the crankshaft without that ring with the lobe on it. I would say she had a mouse nest in it...paint off everywhere but wiring not chewed. Did a compression test....dry, not run in years, 120 and 120 EXACTLY. I have never had an old 18 here with 120 in both. It WILL live again. What are you getting for compression on those 60's 18 hp motors? Mine is a 67 just like yours. Love to watch these 62 to 69 18's.
Now that I watch this again I'm also super curious how the remote shift was set up.
The remote throttle and shift are both hooked up to a 1970s Evinrude Simplex 2-lever control box with the appropriate control cables. All the mid 1950s thru early 1970s 10hp and up outboards came standard with mounting for control cable anchors and connection points on the throttle and shift sides of the motor. I'll see about a video on this boat sometime in the future. Thanks for watching!
@@oldjohnnyrude8404 Thanks for your content, I've learned a ton about my 66 18HP in watching your vids
I’m having trouble with the choke rod and the wire that hooks to mine gonna picture of how your is? I took carb off and got it all back but choke. Also how did you convert to electric start?
Do you ever replace head gaskets ? That was always the first thing we did for a tune up when we worked on the Old Evinrudes...
If I remove the head, then I usually replace the head gasket. As long as I'm not getting any signs of the head gasket is failed or failing and I don't have a need to remove the head, I do not replace the head gasket. They have gotten rather expensive as well. I don't see any reason to replace it if I don't suspect it is causing any problems. Thanks for watching!
How did you fix the broken tilt on casing?
Mine is the same way... Would J b weld fix broken tilt casing? Thanks
I replaced the casting woth one that was not broken. I'm not sure if JB Weld would be a durable enough fix for that to last very long. Thanks for watching!
Cookin!
Thanks for watching! I enjoy running this combination.
I have one of these that I'm gonna fix up soon and try to max it out to 25 hp to replace my dingey 10 hp on my 16" fiberglass. Was it easy setting up the steering wheel cuz I wanna do that too
These are great motors. My favorite outboards. Fair warning, you cannot make a 25 out of an 18. First limiting factor is the block itself. The internal machining is different between the two. The port timing is different in the 25hp. Other differences are the cylinder head, crankshaft, and pistons. The connecting rods and bearings are the only internal components that are exactly the same between the 18hp and the 25hp if memory serves me correctly. The 25hp 22c.i did not come on the scene until 1969. The 18hp and 25hp share the same carburetor body from 1969 on. The earlier 18hp has a smaller intake and carburetor that is not interchangeable with the '69-up. It may work if the entire intake was swapped. The '67 18hp also does not have the innter exhaust tuner tube like the '69-up does. '69-up 18 and 25 share the same tuner. The carburetor is the same between the 18 and the 25, but the 25 has a larger main jet. If the larger jet is run in the 18hp, it typically just runs rich at WOT due to the lesser air flow through the block due to porting differences. Basically, tune the 18 to be the best it can and enjoy it for what it is. It will never be a 25, but the 25 is not a huge gain over the 18 anyway in real world use. Theb18s typically idle better and use less fuel while still having plenty of power. Thanks for watching!
nice hole shot!!
Yessir! This thing will get out of the hole. This rig is a lot of fun. Thanks for watching!
Отличный мотор.👋👋👋
Thanks for watching!
That motor sounds good and runs nice I think I need to flame mine and get that extra 5mph out of it great job
It turned out to be a good healthy one. It's a great runner and I'm glad I put the work into it to get it back on the water. Everything is faster with flames!😜 Thanks for watching!
@@oldjohnnyrude8404 I picked up one of these motors a few weeks ago. I am having trouble getting it to rev up and stay on the high end more than a few seconds. I am getting about 14mph and having problems with the high end needle jet. What's a good way to get in touch?
@@anything896 I never got notified of this comment. You can send me an email to bbreitner at hotmail dot com. I will try to help. Thanks for watching!
@@oldjohnnyrude8404 All good you already helped me a few months back. Thank you man runs like a top
@@anything896 Great! Glad to hear it's running well. Thanks again for watching!
Very good Very good Very strong is beatiful 👏👏👏👍👍👍 Jorge Antônio Ricci Brasil
Many thanks! Thank you for watching!
I am interested in your steering system, would you mind sharing please. Thanks
It is just an old school cable / pulley steering system. I made I video that overviews the build I did on this boat on this channel. Thanks for watching!
Do you have a video of the pulley steering? I've got everything I need, just can't find clear instructions.
I have had a number of requests to do a video on my boat mods. I will try to get one done in the coming weeks. There seems to be a lot of interest in how I did this. Thanks for watching!
Have a question for you sir, I just brought a 1970 back from the dead, I need a lower half of the gear case (skeg) it was ground down I could see the spaghetti seal from the outside of the case, what years are able to bolt up to it? Thanks in advance Chuck
It is sort of taking a chance if it will seal properly or not when you do that. The gearcase halves were originally bored as an assembly before having the gearset installed so they truly are supposed to be a matched set. That said, I have done this many times and have had morors that have had that done to them probably as many times. Probably 85-90% of the time they will seal and not cause a bind on the gear train. As far as fitting up, the skeg half any of the 5-bolt gearcases from 1955 thru the end of the run will fit. In fact, the early large size 4-bolt case from the '53 and '54 Evinrude 15hp and the Johnson 10hp clear back to 1952 will bolt up. The earlier ones had a cross pin inside for the shift fork instead of the Phillips head screw pin thru the side, but the 6 screws all line up and fit and all the innards are the same size. Thanks for watching!
@@oldjohnnyrude8404 I had a feeling, thank you my friend. I have it jb welded now, this motor had a half pound of sand in the lower unit, the sheer pin was broken in three places, the water pick up tube rubber seal was melted, the lower unit, the spaghetti seal was visible threw the case, like it was dragged on concrete for a block, the pull cord assembly was stripped, repaired all that, new carb kit, new water pump, sealed the lower unit (all seals) cleaned up the points and set them to 020 , she fired right up on the third pull, shifts in all gears.. that shift rod had a build up of carbon I had to sand it off.. I'm a big fan of these older 18's they seem to run well if you treat them right.. this one was treated like an unwanted stepchild. I got it for a hundred dollars, put about that into it.. thanks for sharing your experience with us.
I have this motor, I’m having trouble with oil leaking. Several openings are the rotten safety features?
Where are you seeing oil leaking from? Rotten safety features? Several openings? You may have lost me.
Thanks for watching!
@@oldjohnnyrude8404 I’m having difficulty sending a picture. It’s at the top of the lower unit. Oil runs out of them when I fill it. I drain milky oil every time I try to remedy. I tried twice and now had a professional try. Still leaking.
@@dennislove96 Where are you trying to send a picture? A pro couldn't get your gearcase to seal up? What is the oil running out of at the top of the lower unit? Which seals have been replaced? Are the shafts badly worn where the seals ride?
@@oldjohnnyrude8404 I’m not a Motor Guy. My motor is leaking oil from a couple of ports at the top of the lower unit, the motor runs great, just can’t get the lower unit to seal.
@@dennislove96 There are a couple weep holes that allow the water and any unburned exhaust residue to drain out of the exhaust housing. What does the oil that's leaking look like? Is it light brown and clear or is it gray and milky or is is black? Does it smell like gear oil or gasoline? I'm thinking you are just seeing the oily exhaust residue coming out. That will be black or milky gray if the motor was not run long enough to get up to temperature. If that is what you're seeing, that is completely normal.
Where are you getting parts for this I need to find a place
I buy many of my parts from Marineengine.com, iBoats.com, and vintageoutboard.com. Local Evinrude dealers can get parts as well. Depending upon the parts needed, sometimes Ebay, Craigslist, amd FB Marketplace can be sources also. Thanks for watching!
@@oldjohnnyrude8404 okay I'll give it a try my 67 runs great but may want some here and there's
@@oldjohnnyrude8404 I do have one more question I'm getting alot of splash back between transom and motor I raised the motor up so the cavitation plate is level with hull but it's still doing its had hydrofoils on it since I put on do you think those would cause it?
@@TheDudeak Yes, the hydrofoil will often cause the splash. I rarely if ever run those on my boats. If things are set up properly, they are not needed and only serve to slow you down with excess drag.
@@oldjohnnyrude8404 you the man! Thank you I will remove
What is your all around favorite 9.5-10 and also your 15 or 18 hp engine. Mostly engine year wise ??
This a kind of a tough question. I would have to say my favorite 10hp motor would be the 1957 Johnson QD-18 or Evinrude Sportwin. Both the same motor other than cosmetics. I love the way the classic OMC 10s run and 1957 is the last year for the 5-bolt gearcase on the 10hp. It is only very slightly slower than the 4-bolt case on the 58-63 models but is in another class in terms of durability. If I really had my way I would have this motor rebuilt with all the needle bearing internals from the 1963 model to eliminate the potential issues of the small bushing wrist pins from the earlier models.
For the 15-18 class, I would have to say the 1964-1967 Evinrude Fastwin is my favorite. This is my favorite all around outboard motor of all. If I had to have only one motor it would be one of these. They're simple, they start so easily when properly tuned. They run strong and idle very well. It is still light enough to be portable and will push a light boat along at a nice brisk clip. Lots of parts are available and fairly inexpensive. I like the styling (although the classic 50s look still wins in this area this one is next in line). The fixed jet orifice used in this range seems to be as perfect as is attainable for high speed tuning. Electric start is available and the conversion is easy to do. 1967 is the last year before the crankcase puddle drain was routed back to the intake to try to burn off the excess discharge. While this was a valiant attempt made for environmental reasons which I respect, it had a bad effect on run quality of the later versions. They're still excellent motors, but idle quality suffered a bit.
I believe the 1977-1992 9.9/15 OMC is the pinnacle of the fishing outboard. These are fantastic motors. Very durable and more efficient than my favorite, but I do not care for working on them as much as the earlier classics. That and the CDI ignition, while a brilliant advancement in terms of required maintenance, is not user repairable if it fails. It can only be replaced.
Bought my first boat and it came with an evinrude fastwin. Any ideas for adding a kill cord?
What year is your Fastwin and are you running it at the tiller or with remote steering and controls? The kill circuit was added in 1958. If the motor has the kill circuit, the original kill button can be swapped out for a kill switch with a tether with some creative mounting. I put a tether kill switch on my electric start '67 Fastwin that I also have videos of on my channel. I drilled a hole in the lower pan to mount that switch to. If I was not using the original front kill button hole for cable routing, I'd have put it there and not drilled any holes. If your motor does not have the factory kill circuit on the magneto, wires can be added to each set of points and out through the bottom of the magneto plate. Thise wires would be connected to the kill switch. Thanks for watching!
Old JohnnyRude it’s a 67 tiller! That’s along the lines of what I was thinking, but I figured you might have some experience.
@@jonahshipman1567 Yes, I do in fact have some experience doing that. That's an easy one. 👍
Here's a look at my '67 with the twther kill switch.
th-cam.com/video/-o4X-jCI3c8/w-d-xo.html
Hello, I recently picked up an pretty rare 1961 sea king 40hp. Im replacing the coils and wanted your opinion on the brand. What do you think would be best- OEM, Sierra, or CDI?
Congrats on your motor! Thats a nice one. I recommend only OEM for ignition and fuel system components. Definitely OEM for coils since the German Prufrex coils are no longer being made. Thanks for watching!
@@oldjohnnyrude8404 Ok thanks for the info! I ordered some OEM coils, points, and condensers. Thanks!
@@peterb7268 You're welcome 👍
I’m so undecided. So imma ask you...
If you had your choice between a 66 18hp fastwin, a 62 Johnson 18hp seahorse, and a 62 28 hp speeditwin, for a 13’ 1973 Gregor, to be used as a fishing boat in lakes and river and sf bay, and ocean on calm days...what would be your choice? Mostly me and my dog, but sometimes with a buddy...
I love the 28 and it runs the best out of all of them, but I’m just afraid it’s too much for the boat/transom, it’s like 20-30 lbs heavier than the 18s...
The 28 is a great motor, but its a lot on a 13 foot fishing boat. I don't know the ratings of your 13 foot Gregor, but I have to imagine it is 25hp or less. The weight of the motor matters for a couple reasons too. Extra transom weight will make the boat porpoise easier and it reduces the carrying capacity of the boat for other cargo and passengers. The 18s should both be excellent running motors if they are tuned up. They won't have the torque of the 28 by any means, but for a 13 foot fishing boat that may have 2 people and gear in it, it will be great. My personal preference between the two 18s is the 66 Fastwin. I prefer the stying of the Jetstream cowl on the Evinrude over the white box on the Johnson, but both are great motors. The Gregor is a nice boat. I would try the Fastwin and see how that satisfies your needs.
Old JohnnyRude lol, you told me what I already knew, I was really hoping you would say “go for the 28” ;)
I made a guy an offer for a 16’ this morning, we’ll see if he bites...
I love the styling of the fastwin also, it’s my favorite as far as looks and style, I’ll be honest, it IS a better ride in the boat.
Still wanna send you a coffee card for helping me get that fastwin running bro...
Old JohnnyRude ok. I don’t know why I do this to myself... I found a 63 lark 4 and a 59 golden jubilee on CL.The lark comes on a junk boat WITH all the controls and steering and electric start, the golden jubilee is just the motor. They both look to be in similar condition, not bad but not great, both gonna need the CL special tuneup. Each one wants $200. If you could only pick 1, which would it be?
@@TheFrogfeeder between those two motors, if I had to pick one and it was to be a regular user, I would choose the Lark 4 ONLY IF it is a manual shift motor. I would not recommend the electric shift motors. They worked well when working, but are susceptible to damage from slight water intrusion amd very expensive to repair that gearcase. That large crankshaft 40hp is a wonderful motor and the fact it comes with all the controls is a bonus. If it is an electric shift, just walk away.
Is the Jubilee 35 electric start or is it a rope start only motor? These can be rope started, but they get very tiring to rope over. The standard Big Twin in non-Lark trim is usually rope start unless someone has upgraded it. It's an excellent motor too, but electric start is highly recommended. Having to source the controls and wiring is also an added expense. I have two of these motors and I really like them. My '63 40 horse is probably my favorite of my bigger motors though.
Old JohnnyRude yessir, trekked all day to the middle of nowhere and got the lark! It needs a solenoid for sure. It’s not electric shift, I got the 2 handle Johnson controls also. Guy wanted me to tow the whole boat away, thank god it wasn’t in towable condition...I took hella parts for my 200 tho, lights, gas tanks, oars, Bimini frame, I left the steering cables and pulleys, but have all my linkage on the motor. I rarely feel good about paying for junk, but I did get a lot today for my money and fell great about it. Maybe tomoro I’ll make a short video, someone sprayed some kinda foam sealant inside the hood down at the bottom in the back, maybe you’d know what they had in mind there, I don’t know if they were trying to seal water out or in...haven’t really looked at it too closely yet, just took it out the car.
are you sure that's an 18 and note a 25? LOL
Yes, I'm sure this is an 18. I have a 25 too and I get about 2mph more out of it. The 25s also won't idle like this 18. It is definitely a strong running 18 though. I have quite a few 18s and only three of them will run like this one. Thanks for watching!