great video, thanks. i own a dl 1000 with 50k miles on it. beautiful machine, but the chudder is no longer tolerable. got a werksparts upgraded clutch basket on order as we speak. this problem continues into the newer dl 1000 models. i can't believe suzuki does not resolve a well know screw-up. bad, bad, bad
yup, and if you buy a suzuki basket without the mods it will only last for 10k and you have chudder all over again. if you want to own one these v-twins be prepared to spend money on the mods. i had to learn this the hard way. the hard and seriously expensive way.@@darekm6859
Hello, my K3 N has 31,500 miles on it. My bike has a very slight amount of vibration but nowhere near uncomfortable. In actual fact, at the point it kicks in, I use it as the point for upshifting gears and my mirrors are totally clear, even when I'm going like hell. I wonder if the production runs were pretty sloppy and I simply got lucky. Of more concern is the alternator magnet issue, which I'm finally going to attend to this week. If none have moved, I'll fill the gaps between them with JB Weld, rather than try to unstick them all and re attach, as if any break on removal, they're all but unobtainable and I'd have to buy a complete new alternator. Suzuki were very remiss in not having a recall for this issue, if not for both. Best regards from Wales, UK.
Sat down to watch TH-cam tonight, sweet another vid from you. Oh it's about an SV and only 10 mins old, cool. Remembered I saw a post in the NZ SV owners Facebook group warning about clutch baskets this morning. Went back to the group to see if it was this one posted ahead of time, saw Davids post and the link to the TH-cam Reel version of this. The world feels smaller, I've come full circle 😆. Feel a bit for 1000 owners that have this and the stator magnet issue to deal with. SV650s don't seem to have any critical mechanical issues that develop, mostly just electrical which I guess the 1000 might develop too. If he ever has a no power at key on, it's the green connector contacts burning out that the key switch plugs into the loom. Located behind the headstock in the hardest to get to place. You can poke it from the side with a stick or hand if you can reach and it might get you home (for a year, while you ignore it 🤫). Front sub harness connectors also seem to burn out on the earth and I would have the indicators on solid but no headlight. Again, jiggling the connector will fix this (also for about a year while you ignore it 🤫).
It is indeed a very small world. Surely one would think this is something that Suzuki would’ve sorted with a recall. I’ll pass on the info about the dodgy wiring faults as it’ll likely rear its ugly head haha.
I started this whole modification off over fourteen years ago. I only needed to put the new bearing in very worn shot baskets. I put it in all because I could and it made a unique. Then one modifier claimed he went one better by adding an extra bearing - which just broke out of the splatter welding they used. Have no end of them came here with the extra bearing broken out and bits missing. If you put a basket in with bearing both sides, I suggest folk get inside and make a check it's not breaking up and trashing their oil pump feed. The same bad modifier was also machining the basket casting which was claimed to balance them. Just weakened them un necessarily. I just put a new bearing in the middle where required and had no issue with balance. The basket, frictions and steels all self centred during the take up of the clutch anyhow. And remained centred while ever clamped up by the springs and pressure plate. The very latest DL1050 basket fitted to 2020 and onwards VStroms fits SV1000 and DL1000 right back to 2002. Available all over the world and no chudder. Works a treat . As original designer of the basket fix, it is what I recommend.
Good to know, my friend read a lot of posts about your mod on forums before we did this. The bike is long since sold and was replaced with something else, in the time he had it the chudder was gone. It’s good to see the factory have fixed the issue now.
The early 1050 cc engine basket from 2014 to 2020 might if it gives trouble but there is no need. The later 1050 cc bikes actually badged 1050 from 2020 onwards and with quite different engine covers have a different basket that so far has been good without issue. This later basket suzuki part number 21200-31Y20 fits all SV and DL engines back to 2002. It looks the same outside but is different inside where it needs to be.
@@OddsandEndsMachining i know, that's why i used double quotes. By welded, i mean remove springs and make the steel gear fixed on basket and not floating
Sharealike1 I sent you a message on SvPortal about Modding mine. Tell me you still do it? I don’t want to pay for a OEM one if I can fine someone who can mod it better!! 🙏🏾🙏🏾🙏🏾
Sorry for the late reply, send me an email if you’re interested. Although your best bet is to read the comment on this video about using the latest model DL1050 clutch basket.
hello, there is a difference of 1mm between the basket body (the length of the fit under the weakest spring in the body of the basket) and the groove in the gear, that is, the groove in the gear is 1mm longer, because of this there is free movement, should it be like this? or do something about it? at the same time, the weakest spring has a rod diameter of 4 mm, the rest are all the same, (gsx-r 750)
SV and DL 1000 clutch is a significantly larger diameter. Therefore, heavier and change the character of the transmission. The original engines light clutch meant the engine flywheel did most of the work keeping things refined. Later, heavy clutch took over some of that work but let things down once the torsion damping in the basket went weak.
Hey mate, I have needed to do a similar repair to my SV1000 but needed to go a few steps further. The inner damping spring pocket plate i needs to be properly secured to the aluminium basket and due to slight fatigue the springs required 1mm spacers to preload them so I could completely remove the 'chudder' that these engines are afflicted with. I only did the centre bearing fix first and found that doing further mods improved it dramatically.
Thanks, for the info, I should really do an update, but prior to installation on the bike the plate was glued to the basket with JB weld. Was your basket quite far gone?
@OddsandEndsMachining my basket wasn't as bad as some I had seen on the internet but I had a few goes at it before I totally 100% eliminated the chudder. It required the centre bearing for the primary driven gear (I made my bearing out of steel as it could only rotate a maximum of 7°), required the inner spring pocket plate to be properly restrained and hardened shims fitted to the first and second stage springs. My bike still had some chudder after repairing the basket but all chudder went away when I preloaded the damping springs.
@@lomsen79 Most people doing this add the glue as an extra security and it allows for a lot more surface area to be used instead of the immediate area around the screws.
Thank you for sharing your time and experience with this well known problem. Your speech is not difficult to understand. Some people just enjoy being rude on the internet.
![แฉกลโกงงานวัด 2024 [ โกงมั้ยครับ ep.106 ] | DOM](http://i.ytimg.com/vi/taC5dpP3HXA/mqdefault.jpg)
great video, thanks. i own a dl 1000 with 50k miles on it. beautiful machine, but the chudder is no longer tolerable. got a werksparts upgraded clutch basket on order as we speak.
this problem continues into the newer dl 1000 models. i can't believe suzuki does not resolve a well know screw-up. bad, bad, bad
It’s crazy that it’s been a problem since the early 2000s and Suzuki still have no fix.
yup, and if you buy a suzuki basket without the mods it will only last for 10k and you have chudder all over again. if you want to own one these v-twins be prepared to spend money on the mods. i had to learn this the hard way. the hard and seriously expensive way.@@darekm6859
Hello, my K3 N has 31,500 miles on it. My bike has a very slight amount of vibration but nowhere near uncomfortable. In actual fact, at the point it kicks in, I use it as the point for upshifting gears and my mirrors are totally clear, even when I'm going like hell. I wonder if the production runs were pretty sloppy and I simply got lucky. Of more concern is the alternator magnet issue, which I'm finally going to attend to this week. If none have moved, I'll fill the gaps between them with JB Weld, rather than try to unstick them all and re attach, as if any break on removal, they're all but unobtainable and I'd have to buy a complete new alternator. Suzuki were very remiss in not having a recall for this issue, if not for both.
Best regards from Wales, UK.
Sat down to watch TH-cam tonight, sweet another vid from you. Oh it's about an SV and only 10 mins old, cool.
Remembered I saw a post in the NZ SV owners Facebook group warning about clutch baskets this morning. Went back to the group to see if it was this one posted ahead of time, saw Davids post and the link to the TH-cam Reel version of this. The world feels smaller, I've come full circle 😆.
Feel a bit for 1000 owners that have this and the stator magnet issue to deal with. SV650s don't seem to have any critical mechanical issues that develop, mostly just electrical which I guess the 1000 might develop too.
If he ever has a no power at key on, it's the green connector contacts burning out that the key switch plugs into the loom. Located behind the headstock in the hardest to get to place. You can poke it from the side with a stick or hand if you can reach and it might get you home (for a year, while you ignore it 🤫). Front sub harness connectors also seem to burn out on the earth and I would have the indicators on solid but no headlight. Again, jiggling the connector will fix this (also for about a year while you ignore it 🤫).
It is indeed a very small world. Surely one would think this is something that Suzuki would’ve sorted with a recall.
I’ll pass on the info about the dodgy wiring faults as it’ll likely rear its ugly head haha.
All its needed now its the 2020 onwards DL1050 clutch basket, part number 21200-31Y20.
I started this whole modification off over fourteen years ago. I only needed to put the new bearing in very worn shot baskets. I put it in all because I could and it made a unique. Then one modifier claimed he went one better by adding an extra bearing - which just broke out of the splatter welding they used. Have no end of them came here with the extra bearing broken out and bits missing. If you put a basket in with bearing both sides, I suggest folk get inside and make a check it's not breaking up and trashing their oil pump feed. The same bad modifier was also machining the basket casting which was claimed to balance them. Just weakened them un necessarily. I just put a new bearing in the middle where required and had no issue with balance.
The basket, frictions and steels all self centred during the take up of the clutch anyhow. And remained centred while ever clamped up by the springs and pressure plate.
The very latest DL1050 basket fitted to 2020 and onwards VStroms fits SV1000 and DL1000 right back to 2002. Available all over the world and no chudder. Works a treat . As original designer of the basket fix, it is what I recommend.
Good to know, my friend read a lot of posts about your mod on forums before we did this. The bike is long since sold and was replaced with something else, in the time he had it the chudder was gone. It’s good to see the factory have fixed the issue now.
Dl1050 basket needs to be modified?
The early 1050 cc engine basket from 2014 to 2020 might if it gives trouble but there is no need.
The later 1050 cc bikes actually badged 1050 from 2020 onwards and with quite different engine covers have a different basket that so far has been good without issue. This later basket suzuki part number 21200-31Y20 fits all SV and DL engines back to 2002. It looks the same outside but is different inside where it needs to be.
@@sharealike1thx!!!
@@sharealike1if i use 21200-31y20 i can use plate clutch drive for sv1000?
Nicely done, run a SV1000s trackbike and know this repair is in my near future.
Thanks, it wouldn’t be a bad thing to get done. I’ve always wondered why this wasn’t a problem on the TL1000 but it’s has plagued the SV motors.
Hello,
what will be the consequences if the gear is "welded" to basket?
Thank you
You can’t weld aluminium to steel. So it is not possible.
@@OddsandEndsMachining i know, that's why i used double quotes. By welded, i mean remove springs and make the steel gear fixed on basket and not floating
@@OddsandEndsMachininglike a single mass flywheel
@@julienchardon9101 I’m guessing something would crack as the springs lower the peak forces and spread them over time.
@@OddsandEndsMachining ok. Thank you
Yes. Everything interchanges between the two clutches.
Sharealike1 I sent you a message on SvPortal about Modding mine. Tell me you still do it? I don’t want to pay for a OEM one if I can fine someone who can mod it better!! 🙏🏾🙏🏾🙏🏾
Nice video, going to be my next mod/repair on my bike , even if its not a problem yet , thx for the info 😀
Nice repair! Shame Suzuki didn't include a bush in the first place though.
Thanks, It is interesting that they produced the engine for years and probably kept replacing the clutches under warranty.
Great video, thanks!
How can I pay you to Mod my 03 Sv1000s clutch basket? It’s fully modded except for a flash but that vibration is 😳.. Thank you in advance!
Sorry for the late reply, send me an email if you’re interested. Although your best bet is to read the comment on this video about using the latest model DL1050 clutch basket.
Are you in NZ ? if so are you interested in doing another one ?.DL1000 .cheers Pete
Potentially, where in NZ are you?
@@OddsandEndsMachining Waikato, between Cambridge &Matamata. Where are you located?.
@@ShereeJones-i9z I’m in Palmerston North, feel free to email me on the account listed on my channel.
hello, there is a difference of 1mm between the basket body (the length of the fit under the weakest spring in the body of the basket) and the groove in the gear, that is, the groove in the gear is 1mm longer, because of this there is free movement, should it be like this? or do something about it? at the same time, the weakest spring has a rod diameter of 4 mm, the rest are all the same, (gsx-r 750)
Honestly, I couldn’t tell you as I only did the machining and my friend whose bike it was handled the assembly.
Why is the tl1000 not plagued with this problem?
I believe it is a different clutch, probably more expensive to manufacture. I’ve heard you can get them to fit onto an sv motor.
SV and DL 1000 clutch is a significantly larger diameter. Therefore, heavier and change the character of the transmission. The original engines light clutch meant the engine flywheel did most of the work keeping things refined. Later, heavy clutch took over some of that work but let things down once the torsion damping in the basket went weak.
Well done that man
Thank you
Godo Job 👍
Hey mate, I have needed to do a similar repair to my SV1000 but needed to go a few steps further. The inner damping spring pocket plate i needs to be properly secured to the aluminium basket and due to slight fatigue the springs required 1mm spacers to preload them so I could completely remove the 'chudder' that these engines are afflicted with. I only did the centre bearing fix first and found that doing further mods improved it dramatically.
Thanks, for the info, I should really do an update, but prior to installation on the bike the plate was glued to the basket with JB weld. Was your basket quite far gone?
@OddsandEndsMachining my basket wasn't as bad as some I had seen on the internet but I had a few goes at it before I totally 100% eliminated the chudder. It required the centre bearing for the primary driven gear (I made my bearing out of steel as it could only rotate a maximum of 7°), required the inner spring pocket plate to be properly restrained and hardened shims fitted to the first and second stage springs. My bike still had some chudder after repairing the basket but all chudder went away when I preloaded the damping springs.
you thinking about doing this commercially? there's only 2 people who provide these fixes and the wait time is long.
I could if enough people are interested, get in touch via email if you are
@@OddsandEndsMachining where are you located and what would be the cost?
👍🏻👍🏻👍🏻
Great tutorial. Need to do the same to my dl1000. Got a lathe, just need to man up, and do it
Greetings from Denmark.
Thanks. Another point I don’t mention in the video is gluing the basket to the spring retainer plate, to do this just use some JB weld.
@@OddsandEndsMachininggluing the retainer plate? Isn't the capheads enough?
@@lomsen79 Most people doing this add the glue as an extra security and it allows for a lot more surface area to be used instead of the immediate area around the screws.
What language are you speaking? I can hardly understand a word you’re saying
English with a New Zealand accent.
Thank you for sharing your time and experience with this well known problem. Your speech is not difficult to understand. Some people just enjoy being rude on the internet.